We used to act like root vegetables. Back in the days before refrigeration, we humans would gather nourishment during the warm, bright seasons and store it underground in our cellars for lean times. This is essentially what carrots, beets, celery root (or celeriac), parsnips, and their earth-dwelling kin do: stockpile a plant’s energy and stow it safely in the dark, protective earth. No wonder these vegetables are sweet and dense-fleshed (at least compared with, say, more tender, water-packed vegetables like cucumbers, green beans, and celery); roots are warehouses of natural sugars and carbohydrates. No wonder, too, they keep so well. Holding steady is written into their genes. Which is not to suggest that root vegetables are nothing more than long-lived energy sources. Most also contain concentrated doses of the distinctive vitamins, minerals, and phytochemicals created or gathered by the plant.
In the kitchen, home cooks used to divide roots into those we eat raw (such as radishes) and those we eat cooked (including beets, turnips, and parsnips). The exception to this is carrots, which can go either way, and whose versatility has long been appreciated by chefs and bakers, as well as anyone looking for a quick, crunchy, wholesome snack. But the truth is that young beets, celery root, and spring turnips are wonderful raw, and radishes are delectable roasted. Jicama, meanwhile, is enjoyable whether you eat it cooked or raw. Indeed, the moment you start to explore the versatility of familiar roots, you’re in for revelations—kind of like finding precious treasures tucked away in your basement.
SEASONALITY
Roots are so hardy and reliable, most are available year-round—at least in some form—but their character varies from season to season. For tender, just-picked young carrots, turnips, beets, and radishes (including strikingly beautiful watermelon radishes and French Breakfast varieties), visit a greenmarket in late spring and early summer. During the hotter months, radishes and turnips turn pithy, hollow, and dry; carrots and beets simply grow bigger and more flavorful. Watch for celeriac from midsummer well into fall. Autumn brings a new crop of turnips—the purple tops, which are better for cooking than tossing into salads, as well as the all-white Japanese varieties—and radishes, including daikon and Black Spanish, which are wonderful raw or pickled. Rutabaga, parsnips, and salsify are best after a frost—or even in early spring, having wintered over in the dirt. Only a few patient farmers take the trouble to nurture them through the snow, however, so count yourself lucky if you find one!
BUYING
Many root vegetables are sold with their greens attached, which are a useful indicator of freshness: The greens should be tender, young, and firm, not wilted. Celeriac, rutabaga, parsnips, and other cool-season roots (including wintertime carrots and beets) are typically without greens; they’ve been cured for storage. With those vegetables, avoid ones that are split or cracked, have soft spots, or appear slimy or brown at either end. As for whether to buy “baby” or mature roots, true babies will be mild and tender (so-called baby carrots sold in bags are really just older carrots that have been cut and polished). Many roots, including parsnips and carrots, sweeten as they mature—so as long as they aren’t woody or dry, older can be better. With jicama, look for smooth-skinned, firm roots without any bruises or spots. If a few spiky greens are growing from the top, they should be tender and bright-hued, not wilted.
NOTABLE VARIETIES
Beets: Besides the wine-red beets you find in supermarkets, there are a rainbow of colors to choose from: Golden Globe is slightly sweeter and milder than red ones and starts out orange but turns yellow when cooked; Albina Verduna is pure white and very sweet, with bright, curly tops; Chioggia, an Italian heirloom, is a great slicer, revealing pink and white concentric rings; and Cylindra is dark red and cylindrical. Kleine Bol (“Little Ball”), a true baby beet variety, is tender and perfectly shaped. Most beets can be used interchangeably in recipes, though their cooking times will vary.
Carrots: In addition to the familiar, tapering Imperator varieties, keep an eye out for blunt-tipped Nantes, which taste especially sweet; short, stout Chantenays; and small round Romeos. Other heirloom varieties may be purple, red, yellow, even white. These, too, can be swapped one for another.
Radishes: Cherry Belle radishes are the most common variety, with their lipstick-red skins and snow-white flesh. Try also sweeter, milder Pink Beauties and slender, ultra-crunchy French Breakfast radishes; mildly pungent and slightly peppery White Icicle varieties; watermelon radishes with green skins and striped pink interiors; golfball-shaped white Snow Belles; long, mild daikon varieties; and even spicy black-skinned Black Spanish Rounds.
Salsify: Also called “oyster plant,” salsify comes in two types: white (called salsify) and black (known as scorzonera), the latter of which is harder to find but more highly regarded by cooks for its distinctive color and flavor.
Turnips: Like their cousins the radishes, turnips come in various shapes and sizes. Purple Topped White Globe is the most common and has a clean, peppery bite; Japanese white turnips (Hakurei) are mild and sweet even when raw; Golden Ball turnips have sweet, golden flesh and skin; Scarlet Queen has reddish skin but the typical white flesh; Gilfeather has greenish-white skin and creamy skin. If you spot something labeled a black turnip, it’s actually a black radish.
STORING
Because nature designed roots to be supply tanks for the stems and greens—and eventually the seeds that sprout from their tops—you should cut off the greens as soon as you get them home, or they’ll draw moisture from the root (for information on how to cook such greens, see this page). Store roots (except jicama) loosely wrapped in a plastic bag in the vegetable bin of the refrigerator. Winter roots can keep up to three weeks, but the young ones of spring and early summer should be eaten within three days for the best flavor and texture. Jicama is best stored in a cool, dark, dry place, similar to potatoes, and not in the refrigerator.
PREPPING
Much of the characteristic flavor of a beet, carrot, or radish resides in its skin, as does a concentration of nutrients. But so do pesticides, so buy organic and scrub the vegetables with a soft-bristled brush, rather than peeling, before serving. Other roots, such as celeriac, parsnips, salsify, and rutabaga, must be peeled before cooking—not only are the peels bitter, but they tend to be knobby and gnarly, and to hold dirt and grit. Celeriac in particular has a gnarled surface, and requires a generous hand with the peeler or paring knife. Beets, too, need peeling; but if you do so prior to cooking, much of the vegetable’s flavor and color will leach out, so hold off until after, when the skins will slip off with a gentle rub (wear gloves to prevent your hands from staining). Jicama should also be peeled; its tough skin undermines the refreshing texture of its crisp white flesh.
COOKING
Cooking a root not only softens its dense, firm flesh but also enhances its inherent sweetness by breaking down cell walls and releasing stored sugars so they become available to our taste buds. Most roots benefit from roasting, which caramelizes these natural sugars, adding depth to the flavor. Sautéing, which browns the surface, can do the same. Steaming, meanwhile, imparts a cleaner essence than boiling, which can wash away the roots’ subtler aromas and earthy notes. Like carrots, radishes, and celery root, young beets and turnips can be served raw—grate on the large holes of a box grater (or with the grating disc of your food processor), slice translucent-thin with a sharp knife or mandoline, or cut into matchsticks, and add to salads or slaws. Jicama is typically served raw—in fruit or vegetable salads—though it can also be roasted. In Mexico, it is sometimes also added to soups, where it has the character of a mild turnip.
HOW TO ROAST
(For all roots except beets)
Trim and peel vegetables; leave whole or cut into uniform pieces. On a rimmed baking sheet, drizzle with olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and sprinkle with chopped fresh herbs such as thyme or rosemary. Spread evenly and roast at 450°F, tossing, until tender and caramelized, 20 to 30 minutes depending on size of pieces. Drizzle with oil, and top with herbs and/or grated sharp cheese.
(For whole beets)
Place whole, unpeeled beets on a piece of foil lined with parchment. Drizzle with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Wrap to enclose beets, and place on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast at 450°F until knife-tender, 45 to 60 minutes. Remove from oven; let cool, then rub off skins with paper towels. Leave whole or cut into wedges, drizzle with oil and lemon juice, and sprinkle with goat cheese and/or herbs.
HOW TO STEAM
(For all roots except jicama)
Trim and peel vegetables; leave whole or cut into uniform pieces. Place in a steamer basket (or colander) set in a pot with 1 inch water; bring to a boil. Cover and steam until tender, 10 to 20 minutes depending on size of pieces. Toss with olive oil, apple cider vinegar, salt, and pepper.
HOW TO GLAZE
(For all roots except jicama)
Trim and peel vegetables; leave whole or cut into 1-inch pieces. Heat safflower oil in a large skillet over medium-high until shimmering. Add vegetables; cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, 5 to 8 minutes for pieces; 10 to 12 minutes for whole. Add enough broth to cover, season with salt, and cover. Simmer until vegetables are knife-tender, 8 to 10 minutes for pieces; 15 minutes or more for whole vegetables, depending on size. Remove lid and boil until liquid has reduced to a syrupy glaze, stirring occasionally, 8 to 10 minutes more. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from heat, and toss with butter or olive oil to coat.
HOW TO MASH OR PUREE
(For all roots except jicama)
Trim, peel, and chop vegetables evenly. Bring a pot of water to a boil, then add salt and vegetables. Return to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer until very soft, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain and return vegetables to pot, and cook over low heat, stirring, to dry, 1 to 2 minutes. For coarse mashes, mash with a potato masher or wooden spoon with enough warm milk, cream, or broth (or a combination) to achieve desired consistency, along with butter and salt and pepper to taste; or pass through a food mill (for a slightly smoother mash). For velvety purees, puree in a blender with liquid and seasonings.
(For all roots except rutabaga and salsify)
Trim and peel vegetables. Shave as thin as possible on a mandoline, grate on the large holes of a box grater, or cut into matchsticks with a sharp knife. Carrots and parsnips can also be peeled into strips using a vegetable peeler. Toss with olive oil, vinegar or citrus juice, and salt and pepper, and top with chopped fresh herbs such as basil, mint, or parsley. Add chopped toasted nuts, such as almonds or walnuts, or crumble in a fresh cheese, such as feta or goat.
FLAVOR PAIRINGS
Go with it or against it? That’s the cook’s dilemma. You can play up a root’s inherent sweetness with sugary ingredients like maple syrup, honey, and brown sugar, or counteract it with acidic vinegar and lemon juice, sharp mustard, tart goat cheese and tangy yogurt, or bitter arugula or watercress. Most roots pair nicely with nuts and nut oils, which bring out their earthy flavors. Herbs add wonderful notes of freshness. Mild-flavored turnips taste similar to potatoes, especially when cooked; pair them with bacon, garlic, thyme, or vinegar. Celeriac’s flavor is likened to a cross between celery and parsley, making it well suited to sweeter companions like maple syrup and pears. Salsify is slightly sweet and is often described as tasting similar to asparagus or artichokes. Jicama is juicy and crunchy and tastes like a cross between an apple and a potato (hence its nickname, “Mexican potato”). And keep in mind: the flavors of roots generally complement one another, so don’t be afraid to combine at a whim (cook beets separately and add them at last minute to prevent an entire dish from coloring). Potatoes, too, combine beautifully with roots, whether roasted, mashed, or fried.
BEETS: orange, rosemary, tarragon, mint, basil, yogurt, goat cheese
CARROTS: parsley, cilantro, dill, honey, garlic
CELERY ROOT: Dijon mustard, apples, allspice, cream, parsley
JICAMA: lime, orange, grapefruit, mango, avocado, cucumbers, chiles, cilantro
PARSNIPS: nutmeg, maple syrup, sage, pancetta
RADISHES: butter, chives, rye bread, parsley, feta, vinegar
RUTABAGA: apples, pears, honey, cream, ginger, nutmeg, cardamom
SALSIFY: butter, cream, wine, honey, shallots, prosciutto, Parmesan
TURNIPS: bacon, garlic, duck, maple syrup, vinegar, thyme
Roasted Beet and Potato Borscht
Beet Salad with Ginger Dressing
Roasted Carrots and Quinoa with Miso Dressing
Lacquered Short Ribs with Celery Root Purée
Roasted Radishes with Capers and Anchovies
Turnip Salad with Bacon Vinaigrette
Brisket with Parsnips and Carrots
Roasted Rutabaga and Brussels Sprouts
Spiced Parsnip Cupcakes with Cream Cheese Frosting
Roasted Beet and Potato Borscht
You can find dozens of variations on borscht, the Russian beet soup. Some (like this one) are served hot, others chilled, some pureed until smooth, others not—but all showcase the beauty of beets. This version calls for roasting peeled and chopped beets, rather than boiling, for a deeper, richer flavor; potatoes are added for more heft. Sour cream is the traditional topping, and helps to balance the sweetness of the beets.
SERVES 4
2 pounds red beets, scrubbed, peeled, and cut into medium dice
1 pound russet potatoes, peeled and cut into medium dice
2 shallots, coarsely chopped
3 to 5 sprigs thyme
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
5 cups low-sodium chicken broth or water
1 tablespoon red-wine vinegar
Sour cream, thinly sliced scallion greens, and chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, for serving
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. In a roasting pan or on a rimmed baking sheet, toss together beets, potatoes, shallots, thyme, and oil; season with salt and pepper. Arrange in a single layer and roast until beets and potatoes are tender, about 45 minutes.
2. Discard thyme. Transfer vegetables to a pot, along with broth. Bring to a simmer over medium high and cook to heat through. With a potato masher or the back of a wooden spoon, mash some vegetables until soup is thick and chunky. Stir in vinegar and season with salt and pepper. Divide among bowls, top with sour cream, scallion greens, and parsley, and serve.
TIP
You can make the soup with water in place of chicken broth for a vegetarian option.
Besides more classic versions, such as all-American carrot-and-raisin salad, carrot slaws are endlessly adaptable. You can toss in other shaved vegetables, including cabbage, fennel, beets, jicama, or asparagus. Rice vinegar, lime zest and juice, scallions, and toasted sesame seeds give this slaw Asian flavors.
SERVES 4
1 tablespoon sesame seeds
¾ pound carrots, peeled and shaved with a vegetable peeler
4 scallions, thinly sliced lengthwise
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
1 tablespoon safflower oil
½ teaspoon finely grated lime zest, plus 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1. Heat a small skillet over medium. Toast sesame seeds, shaking pan frequently, until golden and fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate to cool.
2. Combine carrots, scallions, vinegar, oil, sesame seeds, and lime zest and juice in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper, and toss to combine.
Beet Salad with Ginger Dressing
Roasting really brings out the beet’s sweeter side, mellows its flavor, and breaks down all those pent-up starches to create a silken texture. We love them as a versatile base for many different salads and sides. Here, beets and fresh ginger make a wonderful pairing, with balsamic vinegar adding sharp-sweet notes and pistachios lending crunch.
SERVES 4
6 small beets (about 2 pounds), scrubbed
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar, preferably white
1 tablespoon finely grated peeled fresh ginger
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
½cup shelled pistachios, toasted and chopped
1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Wrap beets in parchment, then foil, and place on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast until knife-tender, about 45 minutes. When cool enough to handle, rub with a paper towel to remove skins. Cut into ¾-inch wedges.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together oil, vinegar, and ginger; season with salt and pepper. Toss beets in dressing, sprinkle with pistachios, and serve.
TIP
Remember that beets of different sizes and colors will roast at different rates, but all are done when they are knife-tender and their skins rub off with relative ease. Cooked beets are best seasoned while they are still warm and better able to absorb flavors.
Beet Risotto with Beet Greens
Here’s a risotto that makes excellent use of beet roots and their green tops. When it comes to cooking, beet greens, kale, collards, and other sturdy greens are basically interchangeable—they can all be sautéed, simmered in stews, or braised. (In fact, you could substitute beet greens in many of the recipes beginning on this page.)
SERVES 6
1 pound small beets with greens attached, roots and greens separated, roots scrubbed, greens chopped and washed with water left clinging to leaves
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, minced
1 small onion, finely chopped
3 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1 cup Arborio rice
½ cup dry white wine
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Wrap beets in parchment, then foil, and place on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast until knife-tender, about 45 minutes. When cool enough to handle, rub with a paper towel to remove skins. Cut into ½-inch dice.
2. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large skillet. Cook garlic, stirring frequently, until softened, about 1 minute. Add greens and cook, stirring occasionally, until just tender and wilted, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat.
3. Meanwhile, heat remaining tablespoon oil in a pot over medium. Cook onion, stirring frequently, until golden brown and soft, about 10 minutes. Bring broth to a simmer in a saucepan; reduce heat and keep warm.
4. Stir rice into the pot with onion, and cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Stir in wine; cook, stirring, until reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Ladle ½ cup broth into pot; simmer, stirring, until almost all liquid is absorbed (the rice should be thinly veiled in liquid at all times during cooking). Add remaining broth, ½ cup at a time, stirring until almost all liquid is absorbed before adding more, until rice is still opaque in the center and suspended in liquid the consistency of heavy cream (you may not need to use all broth), about 25 minutes total.
5. Stir in beets, greens, butter, and cheese; season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
TIP
The key to a foolproof risotto is in the stirring: too fast and the risotto will be slightly gluey; too slow and it will be watery. Risotto will continue to thicken off the heat, so don’t overcook it—take it off the stove while the rice is still opaque.
Carrots take well to simmering in broth, along with basic aromatics, to make a puréed soup that tastes, purely and simply, of the root itself. Harissa paste gives this soup some nice heat.
SERVES 4
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium leek (white and pale-green parts only), halved lengthwise and sliced crosswise ¼ inch thick, rinsed well
1 bunch carrots (about 6), peeled and sliced crosswise ¼ inch thick
2 teaspoons harissa
Coarse salt
3 cups low-sodium chicken broth
Fresh flat-leaf parsley, for serving
1. Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium. Cook leek until just soft, stirring occasionally, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in carrots and harissa, and season with salt. Cook until carrots are just soft, stirring occasionally, 8 to 10 minutes. Add chicken broth, and bring to a simmer. Cook until vegetables are tender, 10 to 12 minutes more.
2. Purée half the soup in a blender until smooth (be careful not to fill the jar of the blender more than halfway). Stir into remaining soup. Serve immediately, topped with parsley.
Celery Root and Potato Rösti
With its mild flavor—somewhere between celery and parsley—celeriac is often used to round out the flavor of potato dishes, like rösti, a savory Swiss pancake.
SERVES 8
4 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and shredded on the large holes of a box grater
1 medium celery root (about 1 pound), trimmed, peeled, and shredded
2 tablespoons salt
Freshly ground pepper
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Chives, snipped, for serving
Sour cream, for serving
1. Working in batches, wrap shredded vegetables in cheesecloth and squeeze out liquid. Transfer to a bowl, add salt, and season with pepper; toss to combine.
2. Preheat oven to 400°F. Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a 12-inch ovenproof nonstick skillet over medium low. Spread potato mixture evenly in skillet; press gently to flatten with a spatula. Cook for 10 minutes. Run spatula around edge to loosen; spoon 2 tablespoons oil around edge. Cook until underside is golden and begins to crisp, 10 to 15 minutes more. Run spatula around edge to loosen; invert onto a plate.
3. Add remaining 3 tablespoons oil to skillet. Return rösti to skillet, golden side up; press gently. Cook, shaking occasionally, until underside is golden, about 20 minutes. Transfer skillet to oven. Bake until cooked through, 10 to 15 minutes. Serve with chives and sour cream.
Roasted Carrots and Quinoa with Miso Dressing
This vegetarian main course is an excellent study in building a salad with substance. Roasted carrots and onion provide sink-your-teeth-into-something satisfaction along with caramelized flavor, wilted spinach offers color contrast, and nutty, chewy quinoa adds protein.
SERVES 4
1 pound carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 small red onion, cut into ½-inch wedges
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1 cup quinoa, preferably red, rinsed
1¼ cups water
3 cups baby spinach
1 tablespoon white (shiro) miso
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Toss together carrots, onion, thyme, and 2 tablespoons oil on a rimmed baking sheet. Season with salt and pepper, and spread in a single layer. Roast until tender, tossing halfway through, about 40 minutes.
2. Bring quinoa and the water to a boil in a small saucepan. Cover; reduce heat and simmer until tender, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat. Add spinach, cover, and let stand 5 minutes.
3. Transfer to a large bowl; top with carrot mixture. In a small bowl, whisk together miso, lemon juice, and remaining tablespoon oil. Drizzle over salad, toss to combine, and serve.
TIP
Be sure to use white (shiro) miso in the dressing; it’s sweeter, milder tasting, and less salty than other types.
Sliced paper thin, jicama retains its crisp quality as ribbons that mingle with the other elements of this fruit-filled salad. Its mellow flavor is also an excellent match for tart-sweet citrus, as well as Granny Smith apples.
SERVES 4
1 red grapefruit
1 navel orange
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice, plus wedges for serving
1½ tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves, plus sprigs for garnish
¼ teaspoon red-pepper flakes
¼ teaspoon coarse salt
1 small jicama, peeled and thinly sliced into half-moons
1 Granny Smith apple, cored and thinly sliced into half-moons
1. Remove peel and pith from grapefruit and oranges. Working over a large bowl, carefully carve out sections of grapefruit and orange from membranes using a paring knife, letting sections fall into bowl and reserving membranes. Transfer juices to a small nonreactive bowl; squeeze juice from membranes into bowl. Discard membranes.
2. Add lime juice, chopped cilantro, red-pepper flakes, and salt to the small bowl with the juices; stir to combine. Add jicama and apple to the large bowl with the fruit. Pour juice mixture over fruit mixture. Gently toss to coat. Let salad stand for 10 minutes before serving with lime wedges and garnished with cilantro sprigs.
Rainbow Carrots and Chard
Taste the rainbow: Carrots come in an array of beautiful colors. For this striking side dish, we blanched carrots in a variety of hues just until tender and bright, then tossed them with a lemon vinaigrette and the color-coordinated stems of rainbow chard.
SERVES 4
1 pound small carrots, trimmed and scrubbed
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1 bunch rainbow Swiss chard, stems trimmed (leaves reserved for another use)
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, plus ½ lemon, thinly sliced into rounds
1 teaspoon sugar
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Fresh mint leaves, for serving
1. Prepare a large ice-water bath. Cook carrots in a pot of generously salted boiling water until crisp-tender, about 7 minutes. Transfer to ice bath until cool, then remove with a spider and pat dry.
2. Cook chard stems in boiling water until crisp-tender, about 4 minutes. Transfer to ice bath, drain, and pat dry.
3. Whisk together lemon juice and sugar in a small bowl; season with salt and pepper. Add oil in a slow, steady stream, whisking until combined.
4. Combine carrots, chard, and lemon rounds in a large bowl. Toss with some dressing (refrigerate the rest in an airtight container), then transfer to a platter. Top with mint and serve.
Lacquered Short Ribs with Celery Root Purée
Creamy, ultra-rich celery root purée makes a fine partner for Asian-style braised short ribs. (For the best flavor, braise the ribs a day before serving.) We topped the duo with a tart salad of thinly sliced Asian pear, celery, scallions, and jalapeño, all tossed with equal parts olive oil and lime juice and seasoned with salt and pepper.
SERVES 8
FOR THE RIBS
3 tablespoons safflower oil
5 pounds short ribs
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
9 garlic cloves, chopped
4 shallots, chopped
1 large onion, chopped
2 dried red chiles, seeded and chopped
2 scallions, chopped
1 Asian pear, chopped
5 whole star anise
1 cup low-sodium soy sauce
2 cups Gewürztraminer or Riesling wine
1⅓ cups champagne vinegar
½ cup honey
3 ounces fresh ginger, sliced
FOR THE PURÉE
2 medium celery roots, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
6 cups heavy cream
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1. Make ribs: Preheat oven to 325°F. Heat oil in a large Dutch oven over medium high. Season ribs with salt and pepper, and cook in batches until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate (leave drippings in pot).
2. Reduce heat to medium. Add garlic, shallots, onion, and chiles, and cook, stirring frequently, until golden, about 10 minutes. Return meat to pot and add scallions, pear, star anise, soy sauce, wine, vinegar, honey, and ginger. Add enough water to cover by 1 inch (about 5 cups), and bring to a simmer. Cover and transfer to oven. Cook until ribs are fork-tender, about 3 hours. (Ribs in liquid can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated up to 2 days. Bring to room temperature, then proceed with step 4.)
3. Make purée: Bring celery root and cream to a boil in a saucepan. Reduce heat and simmer until celery root is tender, about 30 minutes. Drain celery root, reserving cream. Purée celery root with 2 cups of reserved cream in a blender until smooth. Season with salt and pepper.
4. Transfer ribs to a plate and strain sauce through a fine sieve. Skim fat from top, and discard. Return sauce to pot, and cook over medium until sauce just coats the back of a spoon, about 10 minutes. Add ribs to sauce, and cook, basting often, until ribs are hot and sauce coats meat, about 5 minutes. Serve ribs on top of celery root purée, and drizzle with sauce. Top with pear salad (see note).
This elegant version of vichyssoise replaces half of the potatoes with parsnips.
SERVES 8
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2¾ pounds leeks (white and pale-green parts only), rinsed well and cut into ¼-inch-thick half-moons
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1 pound parsnips
1 pound Yukon Gold potatoes
3 cups chicken broth
2½ cups water
2 dried bay leaves
½ cup whole milk
½ cup crème fraîche
1 jar (2 ounces) whitefish caviar (optional)
1. Cut a round of parchment to fit inside a large pot. Melt butter in pot over medium. Add leeks and a pinch of salt; cover with parchment. Cook, lifting parchment to stir occasionally, until leeks are tender, 10 to 15 minutes.
2. Peel parsnips and potatoes; cut into ¼-inch-thick pieces. Add to pot with broth, the water, and bay leaves. Season with salt. Bring to a boil; reduce heat to medium low. Simmer gently, partly covered with lid, until parsnips are soft, about 20 minutes. Discard bay leaves. Let cool slightly. Working in batches, purée mixture in a blender (do not fill jar of blender more than halfway). Return to pot, and stir in milk. Reheat over medium (do not let boil).
3. Stir ¼ teaspoon pepper into crème fraîche. Divide soup among bowls, and top each with a dollop of peppered cream and ½ teaspoon caviar, if desired.
When peeled or sliced, salsify will begin to turn brown, so you need to keep it in a bowl of acidulated (lemon) water until ready to cook. The root becomes wonderfully tender when boiled, then baked with golden breadcrumbs and Parmigiano-Reggiano on top.
SERVES 4 TO 6
¼ cup plus 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice (from 2 lemons)
2 pounds salsify
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1½ tablespoons unsalted butter
½ cup heavy cream
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
¼ cup fresh breadcrumbs, lightly toasted
¼ cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1. Preheat oven to 425°F, with rack in highest position. Fill a large bowl with cold water; add ¼ cup lemon juice. Trim salsify and peel, transferring to bowl as you work. Cut salsify into 2-inch lengths, and return to bowl. Drain.
2. Cover salsify with cold water by 2 inches in a saucepan; add ½ teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium high. Simmer just until tender, 10 to 15 minutes; drain.
3. Melt butter in a saucepan over medium. Stir in salsify; stir in cream and remaining teaspoon lemon juice. Bring to a bare simmer; remove from heat. Add nutmeg and season with salt and pepper. Pour mixture into an 8-inch square baking dish or 8-cup gratin dish. Sprinkle with breadcrumbs and cheese. Bake until golden brown, about 20 minutes.
Radish Tartine
With names like Pink Beauty, Cherry Belle, and Purple Plum, radishes are the diminutive darlings of the root world. French Breakfast radishes, in particular, are mild, sweet, and crunchy—just right for slicing paper-thin and enjoying on a buttered baguette, as they do in France.
SERVES 6
1 baguette
Unsalted butter, room temperature
1 pound radishes, preferably French Breakfast, thinly sliced into rounds
Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon
Preheat oven to 350°F. Split baguette horizontally and toast on a baking sheet until lightly crisp, 8 to 10 minutes. Let cool, then spread butter generously over each half. Top with radishes, dividing evenly. Sprinkle with sea salt, and cut into pieces to serve.
Roasted Radishes with Capers and Anchovies
Radishes, members of the mustard family, have a spiciness that stands up to other assertive flavors, like the salty anchovies and briny capers paired with them here. Roasting tames all three, and a squeeze of lemon brightens the whole lot. This dish makes a nice appetizer to enjoy with drinks, or great accompaniment to chicken or pork.
SERVES 4
12 ounces radishes, halved or quartered if large
2 teaspoons capers, rinsed and chopped
6 anchovy fillets, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
½ lemon, for serving
Preheat oven to 375°F, with rack in upper third. Toss together radishes, capers, anchovies, garlic, and oil on a rimmed baking sheet; season with salt and pepper. Spread in a single layer, and roast, stirring once, until radishes are shriveled and fragrant, 30 to 35 minutes. Serve warm, with lemon.
Moroccan Vegetable Soup
Unlike many soups and stews, where everything is simmered slowly over low heat until tender, this one takes just under a half hour to cook, start to finish. The result? Root vegetables that retain some texture. Carrots and rutabaga are shown here, but you can swap one or both for parsnips, turnips, or celery root.
SERVES 6
1 pound carrots, peeled and cut on the bias into 3-inch-long pieces
½ large rutabaga (about 1 pound), peeled and cut on the bias into 2-inch-long pieces
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
½ cup thinly sliced shallots (2 to 3 small)
Coarse salt
1 teaspoon ground cumin
2 tablespoons harissa
⅓ cup dry white wine
1 can (15.5 ounces) chickpeas, drained and rinsed
Pinch of saffron threads
1½ cups Israeli (pearl) couscous
Coarsely chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish (optional)
1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add carrots and rutabaga, and simmer 2 minutes. Reserve 6 cups cooking water, then drain vegetables.
2. Heat oil in a large, wide, deep pot over medium high. Add shallots and 1 teaspoon salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until shallots are softened and golden brown in places, about 5 minutes. Add cumin and harissa, and cook, stirring constantly, 1 minute. Add wine and simmer 30 seconds.
3. Add reserved vegetables, the chickpeas, reserved cooking water, and saffron to pot. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and cover. Simmer until vegetables are crisp-tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Season with 2 teaspoons salt.
4. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, and cook couscous until al dente, about 7 minutes. Drain.
5. Divide couscous among six bowls. Ladle soup over couscous, and garnish with cilantro. (Soup and couscous can be refrigerated in separate containers up to two days;let cool completely before refrigerating. Gently reheat together in a covered pot over medium, stirring occasionally, and garnish with cilantro before serving.)
TIP
Harissa is a fiery North African paste that is used as a condiment as well as in cooking. Look for it at supermarkets, in specialty grocers, or online.
Rutabaga-Apple Mash
With its peppery taste, rutabaga pairs nicely with sweet apples or pears—either of which can be used in this recipe. And just as when roasted, the root becomes mashably tender after boiling, while the fruit softens to a sauce. Serve with lamb or crown roast.
SERVES 4
1 large rutabaga, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces (about 5 cups)
1 sweet apple, such as Gala, or pear, such as Anjou, peeled, cored, and cut into 1-inch pieces
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for serving
1 cup heavy cream
Fresh thyme, for serving
1. Combine rutabaga and apple in a saucepan, and cover with water by 2 inches. Bring to a boil and add salt. Reduce heat and simmer until rutabaga is tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain; transfer to a bowl.
2. Meanwhile, heat butter and cream in another saucepan until butter is melted and mixture is hot (do not boil).
3. Add butter mixture to rutabaga mixture and mash with a potato masher or wooden spoon, just until pieces break down but mash is coarse. Season with salt and pepper, and serve topped with more butter and fresh thyme.
Turnip Salad with Bacon Vinaigrette
Baby turnips have none of the sharpness of mature ones, and their greens are also more tender—all the better for combining in a salad dressed with a warm vinaigrette.
SERVES 4
2 bunches baby turnips, trimmed, greens reserved, turnips cut into wedges
1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
2 teaspoons sherry vinegar
2 teaspoons grainy mustard
4 cups baby spinach
2 slices bacon, thinly sliced crosswise
1 shallot, minced
2 tablespoons pecans, toasted and coarsely chopped
1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Toss turnip wedges with oil and ½ teaspoon salt on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast, tossing after 15 minutes, until golden brown and tender, about 35 minutes.
2. Whisk together vinegar, mustard, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in a small bowl.
3. Wash turnip greens well, and tear into 3-inch pieces. Toss greens with spinach.
4. About 5 minutes before turnips are finished roasting, heat a small high-sided skillet over medium high. Add bacon and cook, stirring, until crisp, 4 to 5 minutes. Add shallot and cook until soft, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat, and stir in vinegar mixture. Fold warm bacon vinaigrette into greens. Transfer to a platter; top with roasted turnips and pecans.
Brisket with Parsnips and Carrots
Root vegetables are essential to this dish’s appeal: Just think what you would be missing without all those carrots or parsnips on your plate. A few hours in a low oven not only makes inexpensive cuts like brisket falling-apart tender, it also turns dense, starchy roots into soft, deeply flavorful receptacles for the delicious pan juices.
SERVES 8
1 first-cut of beef brisket (5 pounds)
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more if needed
1 large onion, halved and thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, minced, plus 1 head, halved horizontally
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1½ cups dry red wine, such as Pinot Noir
4½ cups low-sodium chicken broth
2 fresh or dried bay leaves
1 pound parsnips, peeled and halved
20 small carrots (about 8 ounces), peeled and stem ends trimmed to ½ inch
10 ounces red pearl onions, peeled (about 2½ cups)
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1. Preheat oven to 325°F. Season both sides of brisket with salt and pepper. Heat a large Dutch oven or roasting pan over medium high. Add 3 tablespoons oil to pan, swirl to coat, and heat until hot but not smoking. Add brisket; sear until browned on all sides, 4 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer to a platter.
2. Reduce heat to medium. Add onion and minced garlic to pan; cook, stirring frequently, until soft, about 4 minutes. (Add more oil to pan if needed.) Stir in tomato paste, and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Stir in wine, and cook, scraping any browned bits from bottom of pan, until almost evaporated.
3. Add chicken broth and bay leaves, and bring to a boil. Add brisket, then cover and roast 2 hours. Flip meat over. Add halved head of garlic. Cover and roast 30 minutes more.
4. Arrange parsnips, carrots, and pearl onions around brisket; cover and roast until beef and vegetables are tender, about 1 hour. Transfer vegetables and garlic to a platter and meat to a cutting board, reserving pan sauce. Tent meat with foil, and let rest.
5. Let sauce stand in pan for 15 minutes, then skim fat from top. Cook over medium heat until sauce is reduced by slightly more than half, about 20 minutes. (You should have about 2 cups.) Remove bay leaves, and stir in vinegar.
6. Thinly slice brisket against the grain. Arrange slices on a platter with the vegetables. Season with pepper, and drizzle with some sauce. Serve immediately with remaining sauce.
TIP
A whole brisket typically weights 8 to 12 pounds and is sold cut into two pieces—the first, or flat, cut; and the second, or point, cut. Select a first cut that’s evenly thick with a cap of fat on one side. For an extra-moist brisket, don’t trim the fat.
Roasted Rutabaga and Brussels Sprouts
As with most root vegetables, roasting highlights rutabaga’s richness and turns it wonderfully sweet. Here, the root is roasted alongside nutty brussels sprouts with maple syrup and lemon juice, which combine to form a delectable glaze.
SERVES 4 TO 6
½ cup pure maple syrup
2½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
2 pounds rutabaga, peeled and cut into 1½-inch pieces
¾ pound brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved lengthwise
¼ cup hazelnuts, toasted and chopped
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Whisk together maple syrup, oil, lemon juice, and ¼ teaspoon salt. Add rutabaga and toss.
2. Transfer rutabaga and all but 2 tablespoons glaze to a rimmed baking sheet (leave remaining glaze in bowl). Spread rutabaga in a single layer, sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon salt, and roast for 35 minutes, tossing halfway through.
3. Raise oven temperature to 450°F. Add brussels sprouts and ¼ teaspoon salt to remaining glaze in bowl and toss. Toss sprouts with rutabaga on sheet, and spread in a single layer. Roast vegetables, tossing every 5 minutes, until glaze is very thick and vegetables are deep golden brown, about 20 minutes. Season with pepper, and sprinkle with hazelnuts.
For the same reason sweet potatoes make such good fries, so do carrots: They’re naturally sweet, and the sugars help the fries turn golden brown in the oven. First cut the carrots into sticks (producing maximum surface area for crisping); then toss them with grated Parmesan cheese before baking, or with ground cayenne pepper or cumin.
SERVES 4
1 pound carrots, peeled and cut into ¼-inch-thick sticks
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
½ cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
Preheat oven to 425°F. Toss together carrots, oil, and cheese in a large bowl until evenly coated; season with salt and pepper. Arrange in a single layer on two rimmed baking sheets. Bake, rotating sheets and tossing carrots halfway through, until golden brown and crisp, 20 to 25 minutes. Serve immediately.
Spiced Parsnip Cupcakes with Cream Cheese Frosting
Carrots aren’t the only root vegetable for baking into desserts. Naturally sweet parsnips work exceptionally well in cakes, too—and, along with brown sugar and safflower oil, help keep them moist. Warm, fragrant cardamom flavors these cupcakes, which are finished with swirls of cream cheese frosting, carrot cake’s familiar counterpart.
MAKES 12
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
1½ teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon fine salt
¾ cup packed light-brown sugar
2 large eggs
⅔ cup safflower oil
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
2 cups coarsely grated parsnip
8 ounces cream cheese, room temperature
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
½ cup confectioners’ sugar
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line 12 standard muffin cups with paper liners. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, cardamom, baking powder, and salt. In another bowl, whisk together brown sugar, eggs, oil, 2 teaspoons vanilla, and the grated parsnip. Stir in flour mixture until combined.
2. Divide batter evenly among lined cups. Bake until a toothpick inserted in center of a cupcake comes out with only a few moist crumbs attached, 18 to 20 minutes. Let cool completely in pan on a wire rack.
3. In a large bowl, beat cream cheese, butter, confectioners’ sugar, and remaining teaspoon vanilla until combined. Spread frosting onto cooled cupcakes. (Frosted cupcakes can be refrigerated in an airtight container up to 2 days.)