Potatoes are the most popular vegetable in America—we eat, on average, more than 50 pounds per person each year. But they have a secret: Potatoes are clones. So, for that matter, are sweet potatoes and yams (not to mention Jerusalem artichokes, ginger, and manioc)—each is capable of sprouting its own roots, stems, and leaves, and becoming a fully formed plant, genetically identical to its parent. Of course, cloning isn’t controversial if you’re a tuber or rhizome, the name for such plant parts. Nor is it of much concern to the cook, who cares more about what a vegetable can do in the kitchen than what it gets up to underground.
And in the kitchen, tubers are stars. Mild in flavor, they are versatile players that can round out any meal, from everyday scrambled eggs, to healthful vegetable soups, to the finest filet mignons. Their high proportion of natural starches means these vegetables are capable of remarkable textural feats, becoming crisp or buttery, creamy, fluffy, crunchy, even sticky, depending on how they’re cooked. And cooked they should be, for unlike other roots, which consist of simpler carbohydrates, tubers require heat for their nutrients to be digestible.
Perhaps the best thing about tubers is that they’re so easygoing. Because, as popular as they are, they’re more than happy to share the limelight—and make anything they’re served with a little (even a lot) easier to love.
SEASONALITY
Stored properly, most tubers keep so well that grocery stores and even greenmarkets happily stock them year-round. In truth, however, these vegetables have definite seasons—and unless you can replicate ideal storage conditions at home, old potatoes will soon turn spongy and sprout eyes in your kitchen. Sweet potatoes and yams, which come from warm, humid climates, ripen in fall and winter (thus their annual appearance on Thanksgiving tables). Look for them throughout the colder months. Fresh new potatoes are available only in early summer, and they are most delicious eaten within days of harvesting. Mature boiling and russet potatoes are best in late summer and throughout the fall and early winter. Jerusalem artichokes—which are neither artichokes nor from Jerusalem—are available in early fall. (These flowering plants are in the sunflower family and are indigenous to North America, where they are also known as sunchokes. Turns out they were popular in Italy, where the word for “sunflower,” girasole, morphed over time into Jerusalem, and they were thought to taste like artichokes—hence their more common name.)
BUYING
When shopping, look for firm, hard tubers and rhizomes, without soft or spongy spots, or patches of dark or wrinkled skin. New potatoes should be rock-hard, and they will have translucent, “feathered” skin that looks as if it is peeling off. Whatever their age, potatoes must be free of green patches, which indicate the presence of a potentially toxic substance generated by exposure to light. And avoid any potatoes starting to sprout eyes.
With sweet potatoes, opt for plump ones of average size, as the spindly or oversize ones may be fibrous. And don’t fret over the difference between sweet potatoes and yams. True yams are tropical tubers that may grow as big as 100 pounds; they seldom appear in American markets. But we’ve called certain orange-fleshed sweet potatoes “yams” since a 1930s marketing campaign kicked off the practice, and there’s no harm in the misnomer.
As for which potato variety to select, it depends on how you plan to use them. So-called boiling potatoes have waxy, firm flesh that is great for potato salads and gratins. Baking or russet potatoes have skin that looks like a dusty rock and a higher starch content that makes them fluff up when cooked—ideal for baking, frying, and mashing. With sweet potatoes, let color be your guide. The orange-fleshed ones are sweetest and softest. White-fleshed ones are firmer and have a nutty flavor. Red ones fall somewhere in between.
Potatoes: Even the most “exotic” potatoes have been around for a long, long time—thousands of years, in fact. The unusual varieties that have caught on fastest with growers and cooks are purple potatoes, because their color is so striking, and fingerlings, because they taste so good. Purple Peruvian potatoes are medium in size and deeply purple throughout; others include Daku Round, a purple potato with slashes of red and a moist, white flesh; Scamp, with marbled purple and yellow flesh; All Blue, which is truly blue inside and out, with a dry texture; Purple Majesty, an oblong potato with very dark purple skin and purple moist, firm flesh; and Cherries Jubilee, a small potato whose sweet and crumbly flesh is a pretty, mottled magenta when cooked.
Most fingerlings, so named for their long, thin shape, have a warm yellow or ivory-colored flesh; they are firm when sliced, like waxy new potatoes, but they also have some of the dry, floury qualities of Idaho baking potatoes. The best fingerlings, such as Ruby Crescent and Russian Banana, have so much flavor—sweet, nutty, earthy, even buttery—a quality many people mistakenly ascribe to any yellow-fleshed potato. Red Mandel is a waxy fingerling with a sweet, flowery taste; Ruby Crescent (pinkest when freshly picked) has yellow flesh and a buttery flavor, both sweet and sharp; Red Thumb (a favorite among chefs) has a bright red skin and pink flesh; French Fingerling is an heirloom variety with smooth, pink skin and yellow flesh.
Other varieties worth looking for are Katahdin, another “all-purpose” potato similar to Yukon Gold; the medium-starch, pleasantly earthy-tasting Early Ohio; Gloria, a Dutch variety with firm, bright-yellow flesh; Caribe, with white, creamy, delicately flavored flesh; Rosa Lund, a medium-starch potato that’s ivory inside, with a hearty flavor; Kennebec, a large potato with tan skin and white flesh that holds together when boiled; Red Gold, a medium-size, red-skinned potato with golden, sweet, nutty flesh; and Peanut, an old Scandinavian variety with a russet skin and a taste reminiscent of chestnuts.
Sweet Potatoes: With more than four hundred varieties grown around the world, it’s worth going beyond the familiar Jewels, with their copper skin and deep-orange flesh, and Garnets, named for the color of their skin, with their moist, pumpkin-like flesh. Another common variety, Beauregard, has dusky golden skin and paler flesh that’s firmer than the others. Look for these heirloom and hybrids: Hannahs have tan skin and a creamy interior that is lightly sweet and dry when cooked; Creamsicle has cream-colored skin and a bright orange flesh; Covington is a pinkish-skinned sweet potato with moist, orange flesh; Nuggets have reddish skin and a pale orange flesh that’s dense and holds its shape when cooked; O’Henry, whose pale copper skin and white flesh can be mistaken for a regular potato, is sweet and creamy when cooked; Japanese sweet potatoes have a distinctive ruby-red skin with flesh that is creamy white and slightly dry; Murasakis, related to the Japanese variety, have reddish-purple skin and dry, creamy white flesh; Purple Sweet Potatoes have firm, lightly sweet flesh that’s also slightly tart; and Stokes, purple inside and out, are an earthy-tasting favorite among chefs.
New potatoes and Jerusalem artichokes should be refrigerated, but all other tubers are best stored elsewhere, as the refrigerator is too damp and cold an environment for them. Instead, keep them in a dark, cool place (their ideal temperature is 45°F) that is free of moisture. Kitchen wisdom has it that leaving dirt on their skin makes potatoes last longer, perhaps because it both shades and dries the vegetables—though doing so makes for more prep work when it comes time to cook them.
PREPPING
The skins of potatoes, sweet potatoes, and Jerusalem artichokes contain flavor and nutrients, so if your recipe doesn’t call for peeling, a quick scrub may be all the prep work these ingredients need. If you do plan to peel or cut them first, keep a bowl of water handy and drop the pieces in as you work, since they’ll turn gray if their cut surfaces are exposed to air. Don’t worry too much about gray spots in the flesh; they’re merely bruises caused by handling, and don’t indicate spoilage. But be sure to cut away eyes and any hint of green.
COOKING
Baking and roasting are great options for most potatoes, as the oven’s dry heat plays up the vegetables’ firm, chalky consistency. And potatoes like it hot in there: 400°F or higher will crisp the outside while the insides soften. Sweet potatoes also take well to these cooking methods, as they convert their natural starches to sugars. The longer the process, the more sweetness will result: Whole sweet potatoes can spend an hour or more in the oven. And a slow roast makes Jerusalem artichokes soft and almost translucent, with a flavor like their namesake artichokes, but they can also be prepared like potatoes and even enjoyed raw.
HOW TO ROAST
Scrub potatoes and sweet potatoes (or peel, if desired); peel Jerusalem artichokes. Cut into wedges or 1-inch pieces (or leave small potatoes whole or cut into halves). Place on a rimmed baking sheet, drizzle with olive oil, season with salt and pepper and chopped fresh herbs; toss to combine. Spread evenly and roast at 425°F (375°F for Jerusalem artichokes), tossing, until tender, 45 minutes, depending on size.
Note: Parboiling potatoes before roasting creates a light and fluffy inside, with a golden exterior (much like a french fry). Scrub potatoes and peel, if desired; cut into uniform pieces (¾ to 2 inches), or leave small ones whole or halve them. Place in a pot with enough water to cover. Bring to a boil, then season with salt. Reduce heat and simmer just until potatoes are tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain thoroughly and immediately toss with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Roast at 450°F, flipping once, until golden and crisp, about 35 minutes, depending on size.
HOW TO BAKE
Scrub vegetables and prick all over with a fork. Bake on a baking sheet at 400°F (350°F for Jerusalem artichokes) until tender, 45 to 60 minutes. Split open and top with butter, sour cream or yogurt, chopped bacon, sautéed greens, sliced avocado, caramelized onions, kimchi, maple syrup (you name it!). Or, set out a variety of toppings for a potato “bar.”
Peel vegetables and cut into 2-inch pieces (halve or quarter smaller potatoes). Place in a steamer basket set in a pot filled with 1 inch of water. Bring to a boil, cover, and steam until tender, 10 to 20 minutes, depending on size. Toss with butter or olive oil, salt and pepper, and chopped fresh parsley or thyme.
HOW TO BOIL
Peel vegetables and cut into 2-inch pieces (leave smaller potatoes whole, or cut into halves or quarters). Bring to a boil in a pot with 2 inches water to cover, then add salt. Boil vegetables until knife-tender, 10 to 20 minutes, depending on size. Drain; while still warm, toss with butter or olive oil and chopped fresh herbs; or mash and season as desired.
HOW TO DEEP-FRY
(For potatoes, sweet potatoes)
Peel vegetables and cut lengthwise into matchsticks, placing in a bowl of cold water to cover as you work. Drain and pat dry thoroughly. Heat 3 to 4 inches safflower oil in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium until it reaches 375°F on a deep-fry thermometer. Working in batches, carefully add potatoes and cook, turning occasionally, just until tender, 5 to 6 minutes. (They will not take on color at this point.) Transfer to paper towels to drain. Return oil to 375°F, and fry again until golden, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain again, sprinkle with salt, and serve.
HOW TO GRILL
(For potatoes, sweet potatoes)
Scrub small potatoes, or peel larger ones and cut into quarters. Place in a pot with enough water to cover. Bring to a boil, then season with salt. Reduce heat and simmer just until potatoes are tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain; let cool slightly. Toss with olive oil. Grill potatoes directly on grates, turning once, until lightly charred and crisp, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Toss with more olive oil and chopped fresh herbs, such as thyme, rosemary, or parsley. Season with salt.
FLAVOR PAIRINGS
Versatile potatoes adore every kind of dairy; they’ve never met a piece of meat, poultry, or fish they didn’t like; and they get along with all kinds of herbs and other vegetables. And sweet potatoes are right at home in creamy custards, cheesecakes, and pies. Both potatoes and sweet potatoes have made their way into most of the world’s cuisines—you’ll find them in curries, tagines, and tacos, not to mention on tables across Europe.
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES: butter, cream, cheese, bacon, thyme, parsley, sage
POTATOES: butter, cream, cheese, bacon, eggs, chicken, beef, pork, lamb, leeks, onions, rosemary, thyme, parsley
SWEET POTATOES: bacon, lime, orange, apples, ginger, pecans, thyme, parsley, sage, cilantro
Mrs. Kostyra’s Mashed Potatoes
Salt-Baked Potatoes, Shallots, and Chestnuts
Lamb Stew with Jerusalem Artichokes
Twice-Cooked Potato and Leek Casserole
Yukon Gold and Sweet Potatoes Anna
Roasted Pork Chops with Sweet Potatoes and Apples
Potato Yeasted Rolls, Two Ways
Potato Salad, Three Ways
If anything demonstrates the versatility of potatoes, it’s potato salad, which starts by boiling the tubers. From there, the formula is endlessly adaptable. Vary the theme with different spuds—we chose russets in the classic all-American salad with mayonnaise and hard-cooked eggs; small red (“new”) potatoes in a warm vinegar-and-mustard French version; and fingerlings for a salad with bacon, watercress, and celery leaves.
SERVES 4
2 pounds russet, small red, or fingerling potatoes
1 tablespoon coarse salt
In a large saucepan, cover potatoes with cold water by 2 inches. Bring to a boil over high; add salt. Reduce heat and simmer until potatoes are knife-tender, about 25 minutes for russets, 15 for small reds or fingerlings; drain. When cool enough to handle, rub off skins, if desired. Halve or cut as instructed, then transfer to a bowl. Toss with remaining ingredients while still warm, unless otherwise directed (see below).
1
CLASSIC
Peel and chop boiled russet potatoes into 1-inch pieces. Drizzle with 1 to 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar; let cool. Combine 1 peeled and diced large hard-cooked egg, ½ cup mayonnaise, ½ teaspoon dry mustard, and ¼ teaspoon celery seeds in a large bowl; season with salt and pepper, and whisk to combine. Stir in potatoes, 1 diced celery stalk, ½ small diced onion, 5 diced cornichons, 1 chopped scallion, and 1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley. Refrigerate at least 30 minutes or up to 1 day before serving, topped with sliced hard-cooked eggs and sprinkled with sweet paprika.
2
FRENCH
Whisk together ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard, 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar, 1 minced small shallot, 3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, and 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves; season with salt and pepper. Add halved (quartered if large) boiled new potatoes and ¼ small thinly sliced red onion, and toss to combine. Serve warm. (Salad can be refrigerated, covered, up to 1 day; serve at room temperature.)
3
WITH CELERY,
CRESS, AND BACON
While potatoes are cooking, cook 4 strips thick-cut bacon over medium heat until fat is rendered and bacon is crisp, 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate to drain. Break into bite-size pieces. Transfer halved boiled fingerling potatoes to a large bowl; gently toss with ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil and 2 tablespoons white-wine vinegar. Season with salt and pepper; fold in 1 cup inner celery leaves, 2 cups trimmed watercress, and the bacon. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Potato Gnocchi
The petite, feather-light, airy Italian dumplings known as gnocchi are made from mashed potatoes, with flour added to balance the moisture content and just enough egg to bind the mixture. We like to top gnocchi with a simple tomato sauce, but tossing them with browned butter and sage is also traditional, as is pairing them with a meaty ragù.
SERVES 4 TO 6
2 pounds Yukon Gold or russet potatoes
2 tablespoons coarse salt
2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
2 large eggs
¼teaspoon freshly ground pepper
Finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for serving
Fresh basil, for serving
1. In a large saucepan, cover potatoes with cold water by 2 inches. Bring to a boil over high; add 1 tablespoon salt. Reduce heat and simmer until potatoes are knife-tender, about 25 minutes; drain. When cool enough to handle, rub off skins, then pass flesh through a potato ricer or food mill. Sprinkle with flour; then add eggs, 1 tablespoon salt, and the pepper. Stir mixture with a fork to combine well.
2. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface; very gently knead until soft and smooth, about 3 minutes. Using a bench scraper or a sharp knife, divide dough into four to six pieces. Roll each piece into a long rope about ¾ inch thick. Cut ropes crosswise into 1-inch pieces.
3. Roll a cut side of each dumpling against the tines of a fork with your thumb (each piece will have ridges on one side and an indentation on the other). Place on a lightly floured baking sheet as you work. (At this point, gnocchi can be refrigerated on baking sheet up to several hours.)
4. Working in batches, cook gnocchi in a large pot of salted boiling water until they float to the top, 2 to 3 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer to a colander to drain. To serve, toss gnocchi with tomato sauce, and top with cheese and basil.
Tomato Sauce
MAKES 4 CUPS
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 large garlic clove, finely chopped
Pinch of red-pepper flakes
1 can (28 ounces) whole peeled tomatoes, chopped
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat oil, garlic, and red-pepper flakes in a pot over medium, stirring frequently, just until fragrant and sizzling, about 2 minutes. Add tomatoes and season with salt and black pepper. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a rapid simmer and cook, stirring occasionally and mashing tomatoes, until thickened, about 15 minutes. Sauce can be cooled and refrigerated in an airtight container up to 1 week; reheat over low before serving.
Mrs. Kostyra’s Mashed Potatoes
Thanks to all the different varieties of the humble tuber, you can have mashed potatoes any way you like—fluffy but grainy (russets), smooth and creamier (Yukon Gold and long white), chunky with skins for added texture (new potatoes). This creamy, smooth, ultra-rich recipe came from Martha’s mother, Mrs. Kostyra.
SERVES 8
3½ pounds white or Yukon Gold potatoes
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
8 ounces cream cheese, room temperature
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
¼ cup whole milk, warmed
½ cup heavy cream, warmed
1. In a large saucepan, cover potatoes with cold water by 2 inches. Bring to a boil over high; add 1 tablespoon salt. Reduce heat and simmer until potatoes are knife-tender, about 25 minutes; drain. When cool enough to handle, rub off skins and cut potatoes into large pieces.
2. With an electric mixer on medium speed, beat potatoes, cream cheese, butter, milk, and ¼ cup cream until smooth. Season with salt and pepper and beat to combine.
3. Return potato mixture to pan and heat over medium. Stir in remaining ¼ cup cream and cook, stirring, until heated through. Serve immediately, or keep warm in a covered bowl over a pan of simmering water up to 2 hours.
Salt-Baked Potatoes, Shallots, and Chestnuts
Fingerlings have a meaty flavor that mates well with the chestnuts in this holiday (or any cool-weather day) side dish. Baking the potatoes, chestnuts, and shallots buried in salt traps their moisture as it seals in their flavors, without leaving them overly salty.
SERVES 8 TO 10
3 cups coarse salt, plus more for serving
3 pounds small fingerling potatoes, preferably red
1 cup peeled roasted chestnuts
1 pound shallots, peeled
5 large sprigs rosemary, cut into twenty 2-inch pieces, plus more for serving
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
Freshly ground pepper
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Pour 1 cup salt into a 2-quart baking dish. Nestle potatoes, chestnuts, and shallots upright in salt, with rosemary in between. Pour remaining 2 cups salt over top; shake dish gently to distribute evenly. Cover with foil, and bake until potatoes can be easily pierced with a knife, about 2 hours. Keep covered at room temperature until ready to serve.
2. Remove potatoes, chestnuts, and shallots from dish, rubbing off any large bits of salt. Discard salt and rosemary. Slice potatoes and shallots in half lengthwise, and arrange on a serving platter with chestnuts. Drizzle with oil; season with salt and pepper. Top with rosemary sprigs and serve.
Lamb Stew with Jerusalem Artichokes
The texture of Jerusalem artichokes is similar to potatoes when cooked, but without potatoes’ starchiness, so they hold their shape when added to stews. This recipe pairs the tubers with lamb and tomatoes, and is flavored with cardamom, saffron, caperberries, and cilantro.
SERVES 6
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1½ pounds boneless lamb shoulder, cut into 1½-inch cubes
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1½ pounds Jerusalem artichokes (about 15 small), peeled, cut into ¾-inch cubes, and placed in cold water (drain and pat dry before using)
2 cups coarsely chopped onion (about 1 large)
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon freshly grated peeled ginger (1-inch piece)
1 cinnamon stick
2 whole cloves
2 green cardamom pods, lightly crushed
½ teaspoon red-pepper flakes
1 can (35 ounces) whole peeled plum tomatoes with juice
1 cup low-sodium chicken broth
⅛ teaspoon crumbled saffron threads
1 jar (10 ounces) small caperberries, drained
¼ cup finely chopped fresh cilantro
1. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large, heavy pot over medium high. Season the lamb with salt and black pepper; brown the meat (in batches, if necessary) on all sides, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a bowl.
2. Cook the artichokes in remaining tablespoon oil in same pot over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until well browned on all sides, about 7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer artichokes to a separate bowl.
3. Add onion, garlic, and ginger to remaining oil in pot; sauté over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until onion is translucent, about 4 minutes. Add cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, and red-pepper flakes; cook, stirring constantly, 2 minutes.
4. Stir in tomatoes and juice, broth, saffron, and 1 teaspoon salt. Using the side of a wooden spoon, break up tomatoes. Add reserved lamb and accumulated juices; bring mixture to a boil. Reduce heat to low; cover, and simmer until meat is tender, about 1 hour.
5. Return reserved artichokes to pot. Continue to simmer until artichokes are tender, about 25 minutes; add caperberries during final 5 minutes of cooking. Season with salt and black pepper. Discard cinnamon, cloves, and cardamom before serving, topped with cilantro.
This traditional Alpine dish (which, like the Alps, straddles France and Switzerland; tartiflies is Swiss dialect for “potatoes”) is the best example of scalloped potatoes, with melted cheese binding the potatoes in place of heavy cream. Lardons of crisp, smoky bacon are layered throughout and scattered over the top.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Unsalted butter, for baking dish
2½ pounds fingerling potatoes, scrubbed and cut lengthwise into ½-inch-thick slices
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
8 ounces sliced thick-cut bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
½ cup dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
14 ounces Reblochon-style cheese, cut into ¼-inch-thick slices
1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Butter a shallow 2-quart baking dish. In a saucepan, cover potatoes with cold water by 2 inches. Bring to a boil over high heat; add 1 tablespoon salt. Reduce heat and simmer until potatoes are knife-tender, about 10 minutes; drain.
2. Meanwhile, cook bacon in a large skillet over medium heat, turning, until crisp and golden, about 12 minutes. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate; pour off all but 1 tablespoon fat from skillet. Add onion; cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until lightly caramelized, about 15 minutes. Add wine and cook until reduced, about 2 minutes. Stir in bacon.
3. Arrange half the potatoes in prepared dish. Season with salt and pepper. Top with half the bacon mixture and half the cheese. Repeat with remaining ingredients. Bake until cheese is bubbling, about 25 minutes. Serve immediately.
TIP
Although Reblochon is a must in France, other cheese created in its spirit, such as Preferes des Montagnes, will work just fine; Italian Robiolo Bosino and Brie are also excellent (but milder) substitutes.
Twice-Cooked Potato and Leek Casserole
SERVES 6 TO 8
2 pounds sweet potatoes (about 5 small), peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces
2 pounds russet potatoes (about 7 small), peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
¾ cup whole milk, warmed
¾ cup heavy cream, warmed
¾cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, melted
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
Pinch of cayenne pepper
1 leek (white and pale-green parts only), cut into ¼-inch rings, rinsed well
Safflower oil, for frying
1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Cover sweet potatoes and russet potatoes each with 1 inch water in two separate saucepans. Bring to a boil, salt generously, and boil until fork-tender, about 8 minutes; drain. Return potatoes to respective pans.
2. In a bowl, combine milk, cream, and butter. Divide milk mixture between saucepans. Mash both potatoes until smooth; season with salt and black pepper. Spread mashed sweet potatoes evenly in the bottom of a shallow 2-quart baking dish. Top with mashed russet potatoes; spread evenly to edges. Bake until golden, about 25 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, in a bowl, combine flour and cayenne. Add leek; toss to coat. In a medium saucepan, heat 2 inches oil over medium high until a thermometer registers 350°F. Working in batches, add leek rings and cook, turning, until crisp and light golden around edges, about 1 minute. With a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain. Season with salt. Sprinkle fried leeks over potatoes and serve.
Yukon Gold and Sweet Potatoes Anna
SERVES 6 TO 8
1¼ pounds Yukon Gold potatoes (3 to 4 medium), peeled
1¼pounds sweet potatoes (2 medium), peeled
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Cut potatoes into ⅛-inch-thick slices, keeping potato varieties separate.
2. Brush an ovenproof 9-inch nonstick skillet with some butter. Starting in center of pan, arrange about 20 Yukon Gold slices, slightly overlapping, in a circular pattern, covering surface. Brush with some butter, and generously season with salt and pepper. Make next layer with sweet potato slices; brush with butter and season. Repeat, alternating colors. Drizzle remaining butter on top of potatoes.
3. Cook potatoes over medium-high heat until butter vigorously bubbles in pan, about 4 minutes. Transfer to oven, and bake 30 minutes. Tent loosely with foil; continue to bake until potatoes are easily pierced with a knife, about 20 minutes more. Remove from oven, and run a heatproof flexible spatula around edges of potatoes to loosen. Let cool; carefully invert onto a plate, cut into wedges, and serve.
Salmon Chowder
Frugal cooks have long relied on cold-storage crops like potatoes to make meals with substance during long winters. Chowders are among the easiest and most delicious of those. No thickeners are needed since the potatoes contribute their own starches. In fact, potato starch is a thickener in its own right, similar to cornstarch; it’s used in sauces, soups, and pie fillings, while potato flour is used for yeasted rolls and other baked goods.
SERVES 6
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 leek (white and pale-green parts only), halved lengthwise, thinly sliced, and rinsed well
1 red onion, quartered and thinly sliced
Coarse salt and freshly ground white pepper
3 small Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into ¾-inch cubes
2 carrots, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
6 cups homemade or store-bought low-sodium fish stock
12 ounces skinless salmon fillet (or cod or halibut), cut into ¾-inch cubes
½ cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill
1. Heat butter in a medium stockpot over medium low. Cook leek and red onion until soft, 6 to 8 minutes. Season with 1 teaspoon salt. Stir in potatoes and carrots. Add stock and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, and simmer until potatoes are almost tender, 6 to 8 minutes.
2. Add salmon and simmer until opaque, about 3 minutes. Stir in cream and heat through. Stir in dill, season with salt and pepper, and serve.
Roasted Pork Chops with Sweet Potatoes and Apples
Kitchen wisdom holds that produce that’s in season at the same time will taste great on the same plate (what grows together, goes together, as the saying goes). Here, sweet potatoes, apples, and Vidalia onion are roasted along with pork chops for an autumnal one-pan supper. The tubers soak up the pan juices—flavored with apple cider vinegar, apple cider, and caraway seeds—that are also drizzled over each serving.
SERVES 4
4 bone-in pork chops (each about 10 ounces and 1 inch thick)
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium sweet potatoes, scrubbed and cut into ¼-inch-thick rounds
1 large sweet onion, such as Vidalia, cut into ¼-inch-thick rounds
⅓ cup apple cider vinegar, preferably unfiltered
½ cup unsweetened apple cider, preferably unfiltered
1 teaspoon caraway seeds
2 apples, preferably Honeycrisp, thinly sliced, seeds removed
1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Season pork with salt and pepper. Heat a large ovenproof skillet over medium high; swirl in oil. Cook chops until golden brown, turning once, about 8 minutes total. Transfer to a plate. Remove all but 2 tablespoons fat from skillet.
2. Reduce heat to medium. Add potatoes and onion; season with salt. Cook until golden in spots, about 10 minutes. Add vinegar and cider. Cover and simmer, stirring a few times, until potatoes are tender, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle with caraway seeds.
3. Return pork and juices to skillet; tuck apple slices between chops. Roast until a thermometer inserted into thickest part of chops (without touching bone) registers 138°F, about 10 minutes. Serve pork, vegetables, and apples with pan juices.
Potato Yeasted Rolls, Two Ways
When making yeasted rolls, try adding mashed potatoes to the dough. Not only do they act as an agent for fermentation, ensuring a nice rise, but they also help keep the rolls moist and light. Bonus: Both doughs (this one and the potato dough recipe) can be made with leftovers, or an equal amount of mashed pumpkin or winter squash.
Sweet Potato Yeasted Rolls
MAKES 2O
¼cup warm water (110°F)
1 envelope (¼ ounce) active dry yeast
1 cup milk
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more, melted, for brushing
½cup sugar
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon coarse salt
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
2 cups mashed cooked peeled sweet potatoes (from about 2 medium)
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1 large egg, lightly beaten
7 cups sifted all-purpose flour
1. Place the warm water in a small bowl, and sprinkle with yeast. Let stand until yeast is dissolved and mixture is foamy, about 7 minutes.
2. In a small saucepan, heat milk over medium just until it begins to steam and bubble around the sides. Remove from heat; add butter, and stir until melted and combined. Stir in sugar, salt, and cardamom. Let cool slightly.
3. With an electric mixer on medium speed, beat sweet potatoes and lemon juice until smooth, 2 to 3 minutes. Beat in egg and milk and yeast mixtures until smooth.
4. Switch to the dough hook. Add flour, 1 cup at a time, beating until a stiff dough forms. Continue kneading dough on medium speed until smooth, about 8 minutes more; the dough will still be slightly sticky. Transfer to a buttered bowl; cover with a clean kitchen towel. Let rise in a warm spot until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour.
5. Punch down dough, and knead with your hands, just until smooth. Using a bench scraper or sharp knife, cut dough into 20 equal pieces, and shape into rolls. Place rolls on parchment-lined baking sheets about 2 inches apart; cover with a kitchen towel, and let rise again in a warm spot until doubled in bulk, about 40 minutes.
6. Preheat oven to 400°F. Using kitchen scissors or a sharp paring knife, snip an X in the top of each roll. Brush rolls with melted butter. Bake until tops of rolls are golden, rotating sheet halfway through, about 20 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Potato Dinner Rolls
MAKES 30 TO 35
2 small russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces
2 envelopes (¼ ounce each) active dry yeast
2 tablespoons sugar, plus a pinch
1 cup buttermilk, room temperature
4 tablespoons butter, melted and cooled, plus more for bowl, plastic wrap, and brushing
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon coarse salt
5½ to 6½ cups bread flour, plus more for dusting
1. Place potatoes in a medium saucepan with enough cold water to cover. Bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain, reserving ½ cup liquid. Let reserved liquid cool to 110°F. Meanwhile, mash potatoes with a potato masher or pass through a potato ricer.
2. In the bowl of an electric mixer, whisk together reserved liquid, yeast, and pinch of sugar. Let stand until mixture is foamy, about 5 minutes.
3. Attach bowl to electric mixer fitted with the dough hook. With mixer on low speed, add remaining sugar, the potatoes, buttermilk, butter, and salt. Add enough flour, 1 cup at a time, to make a dough that’s slightly tacky. Continue kneading dough until smooth, about 2 minutes more. Transfer to a buttered bowl; cover with buttered plastic wrap. Let rise in a warm spot until doubled in bulk, 1 to 1½ hours.
4. Preheat oven to 375°F. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured work surface. Using a floured rolling pin, roll out dough ¾ inch thick. Cut into 2-inch-wide strips. Cut strips into triangles or squares; place at least 1¼ inches apart on parchment-lined baking sheets. Brush tops generously with melted butter; cover with buttered plastic wrap. Let rise until dough is no longer springy to the touch, about 15 minutes.
5. Bake until tops of rolls are golden, rotating sheets halfway through, about 20 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.
