Stalks and stems are the “interstate highways” of the vegetable world: botanical thoroughfares for the passage of water, sugars, and nutrients between the plant’s roots down below and its leaves above. But the stalks and stems of asparagus, celery, rhubarb, and other such edible plant parts—including the bulb-like stems of fennel and kohlrabi—have transformed the route into a scenic byway—and one of the plants’ greatest assets. Indeed, celery stalks were once considered so elegant that they were displayed, like calla lilies, in crystal vases.
For a cook, understanding the role of stalks and stems in the life of a plant can help with selecting, preparing, and cooking them. Ripeness—the age of a vegetable when harvested—matters with all fruits and vegetables. But with stalks and stems, it’s of foremost importance, surpassing even freshness (in other words, how recently it was harvested). Picked young, just as they are reaching toward the sky, stalks such as asparagus, celery, and rhubarb will be crisp, lithe, and tender. But allow a few days or weeks to pass, and they begin to turn stringy, even woody, because nature has designed them to stiffen into reliable support structures for the growing plant. Techniques like paring away the celery and fennel “strings,” and peeling away the outer layer of rhubarb or kohlrabi can alleviate this problem. Better yet, hit the road yourself, in search of the youngest ones your farmers’ market has to offer.
SEASONALITY
Emerging from the just-thawed earth, asparagus is a harbinger of spring, and its season is brief. A few weeks later, rhubarb begins to reach skyward; it’s best just as late spring crosses into summer. Look for kohlrabi in early summer if you like it raw; by July, its turnipy nature begins to assert itself. Fennel likes cool weather, and is available from fall into very early spring. Celery won’t tolerate extremes of heat or cold, but it is available year-round thanks to cultivation in both northern and southern states.
BUYING
Does size matter? When it comes to some stalks, the answer is yes, but for others, not so much. Contrary to what many people think, thinner asparagus spears are not younger, more tender versions of thicker-speared asparagus. Instead, long, thick spears with tightly closed heads are usually the best tasting and have the best texture. In contrast, those shorter, thinner inner celery stalks are more tender than the outer ones. But the length and thickness of a rhubarb spear, or the plumpness of a fennel bulb, are no indications of quality. Instead, try inspecting the cut ends of these vegetables. With observation, you may be able to determine their maturity—those of younger plants will have a uniform, smooth, almost creamy appearance; older ones will look coarse and woody. However, the only sure way to determine the age of stalk and stem vegetables is to buy them in season at a greenmarket, from a farmer who grew them herself. Kohlrabi is one exception: Look for bulbs no larger than a tennis ball that do not appear cracked or overgrown; the leaves should be unblemished.
NOTABLE VARIETIES
Asparagus: Green, purple, or white—they are all the same varieties but with different tastes and textures. The hue of any purple asparagus, such as Purple Passion, is only skin deep and the stalks will turn green when cooked, so enjoy it raw; it is more tender and sweeter-tasting than green. White, on the other hand, stays creamy white when cooked, thanks to being deprived of sunlight during growing to avoid its turning green; as such, it has a milder taste (and much tougher skins).
Celery: Most celery is of the familiar greenish-white type; the varieties at farmers’ markets tend to have more vibrant leaves attached (and, often, stalks that are more tender), all the better for using in salads and to garnish soups. Celery also comes in red (often called “Red Giant”); the stalks are sturdier, even when cooked, and have a more robust flavor, making them ideal for simmering in soups and stews.
Fennel: The familiar type of fennel (finocchio) with the white bulb is called Florence (or Florentine) fennel; you can also find it labeled “sweet anise” or just “anise.” Wild fennel (finochietto) looks nothing like the domesticated variety; instead of a bulb it has a root, and it is harvested for the feathery fronds (which are added to soups and stews and egg dishes) and the seeds (used in pickling and making sausages). Wild fennel has a more intense licorice flavor than domesticated fennel. Fennel pollen, the golden dust extracted from flowers on bolted plants, has also become more common; it is prized for having the most intense (concentrated) licorice taste, with hints of citrus, too. It can be used in any dish where you would use the bulb or wild fennel fronds and seeds, either added while cooking or as a garnish.
Kohlrabi: This knobby vegetable may be pinkish purple (often called “violet” or “red”) or greenish (called “white”); both have white flesh and are identical in taste.
Rhubarb: Its colors range from deep crimson to green; the color does not affect flavor. (Here’s a tip for helping rhubarb take on a rosier hue: Add a few slices of red beet to the liquid when poaching or stewing.)
STORING
Asparagus can be stored like fresh flowers: Slice vertically into the spears’ ends and stand them upright in water, with the tips lightly covered with a damp paper towel. Celery, fennel, and rhubarb like a slightly moist, chilly environment; wrap them loosely in a slightly damp paper towel and place them in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to three or four days. The kohlrabi stems (or bulbs) will keep for several weeks in the refrigerator. If you have an abundance of rhubarb, the easiest way to store it so you can enjoy rhubarb when it’s out of season is to freeze it: Cut the stalks into 1-inch pieces, lay them flat on a baking sheet, and freeze until firm, at least 2 hours. Then transfer to sealable plastic bags, and store in the freezer up to a year.
PREPPING
You’ll know how to prep stalks the moment you start working with them; they have built-in guidelines. For example, if you cut halfway through an outer stalk of celery or fennel and pull downward, do tough strings pull away? If so, pare them off. Next, inspect the cut end: Is it hollow and fibrous? If so, discard the outer stalks. Asparagus, meanwhile, will naturally break where the tough bottom end meets the more tender upper stalk; bend gently to feel for the junction, then snap off and discard the bottom portion. You can use a paring knife to peel away the silky outer skin of kohlrabi (younger ones won’t need peeling), rhubarb, and asparagus, if necessary; white asparagus always needs peeling.
Long spears of delicate, young asparagus are succulent in springtime, and the tender inner stalks of celery and fennel are delightful to eat from tip to toe. But given the fibrous nature of these vegetables’ cell structures, cutting them crosswise is often the best solution, especially for older ones. Slice firm stalks on the bias into short chunks or even paper-thin slices to eliminate stringiness. Thus prepared, fennel, celery, kohlrabi, and even asparagus are wonderful raw in salads. Fennel and asparagus also take well to grilling and roasting. Tart rhubarb, too, is lovely roasted with sugar, and when stewed for just a few minutes, it melts into a silky compote: Slice ¼ inch thick, combine in a saucepan with sugar or honey, fresh ginger, and just enough water to cover the bottom of the pan. Cover tightly, and cook 7 to 10 minutes, or until the pieces fall apart. Serve over Greek yogurt, ice cream, or waffles.
HOW TO SERVE RAW
(For asparagus, celery, fennel, kohlrabi)
Trim tough ends of asparagus and peel into ribbons with a vegetable peeler, or cut thinly on the bias; thinly slice celery, fennel, and kohlrabi (preferably on a mandoline) or cut fennel and kohlrabi into matchsticks. Toss with extra-virgin olive oil and lemon juice (orange is also nice with fennel) or red-wine vinegar, and season with salt and pepper. Add apples, carrots, radishes, scallions, or red onion, cut into similar-size pieces as the stalk, if desired. Top with shaved or grated Parmesan or Pecorino Romano.
HOW TO STEAM
(For asparagus, celery, fennel, kohlrabi)
Fill a pot with enough water to come just under a steamer insert; bring to a simmer. Snap off tough ends of asparagus; slice celery and fennel ½ inch thick; cut kohlrabi into ½-inch cubes. Place in steamer basket, cover, and cook until just tender, 5 to 10 minutes (less for very thin asparagus stalks). Toss with extra-virgin olive oil, lemon juice and/or zest, fresh herbs (parsley, mint, or basil), and season with salt and pepper.
HOW TO BRAISE
(For asparagus, celery, fennel)
Trim tough ends of asparagus and tips of celery stalks, leaving heads intact; trim stems from fennel and cut bulbs into halves or quarters lengthwise. (Make sure asparagus spears can all fit in pan.) Sauté in butter or olive oil over medium-high heat until browned in spots, turning once, 2 to 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, and add enough liquid (chicken or vegetable broth, or orange juice and/or water) to cover. Simmer, covered, until very tender, 10 to 12 minutes; add more water if pan becomes too dry. Top with grated lemon or orange zest (and chopped fennel fronds for fennel), fresh or dried herbs, a drizzle more olive oil, and pepper.
(For asparagus, fennel, kohlrabi, rhubarb)
Leave asparagus or rhubarb whole, or cut on the bias into 1-inch pieces; cut fennel into ½-inch wedges; and cut kohlrabi into ¼-inch slices. Toss with olive oil just to coat. Season with salt and pepper. (Toss rhubarb instead with a bit of sugar or honey.) Spread on a baking sheet, and roast at 425°F until browning in spots, turning vegetables halfway through, about 15 minutes.
HOW TO GRILL
(For asparagus and fennel)
Trim tough ends from asparagus; trim fennel and halve or quarter bulb. Toss with olive oil, salt, and pepper. To grill skinnier stalks, thread them on skewers. Place on a medium-hot grill, and cook until beginning to char, turning frequently, 5 to 7 minutes. Sprinkle with fresh herbs and grated sharp cheese.
HOW TO BAKE CHIPS
(For kohlrabi)
Toss very thinly sliced kohlrabi with olive oil, salt, and pepper, and spread evenly on a baking sheet lined with a nonstick mat. Bake at 250°F until crisp and golden, rotating sheet once, 35 minutes to 1 hour. Transfer to paper towels to drain, and sprinkle with salt.
FLAVOR PAIRINGS
What to pair with stalks and stems? It all depends. Celery, part of the essential flavor bases of many cuisines, including mirepoix in France (celery, onion, carrot), soffrito in Italy (celery, onion, carrot, and parsley), and the Cajun “Holy Trinity” (celery, onion, and green pepper), goes with almost everything. And its natural saltiness makes it an essential part of many soups and stews. Rhubarb, on the other hand, has such a unique and assertive flavor that it can clash with other ingredients. Kohlrabi brings a fresh, delicate flavor, like that of tender broccoli stems, to raw salads. Like fennel and asparagus, it comes to life with a touch of acidity from citrus or mild vinegar.
ASPARAGUS: lemon, Parmesan, garlic, ginger, sesame, eggs, cream, ham
CELERY: dill, tarragon, mayonnaise, blue cheese, curry, onions, carrots, parsley
FENNEL: orange, lemon, Parmesan, almonds, olives, parsley, thyme, tomatoes
KOHLRABI: lemon, mustard, Swiss cheese, dill, cream
RHUBARB: strawberries, ginger, orange, raspberries, mint, cinnamon, crème fraîche
Egg, Asparagus, and Mushroom Stir-Fry
Asparagus and Potato Flatbread
Rhubarb Chutney with Pork Roast
Asparagus, Artichoke, and Farro Salad
Fennel and Smoked Salmon Salad
Clam Pan Roast with Fennel and Sausage
Celery, Cilantro, and Almond Salad
Nothing says spring like the first appearance of local asparagus, which needs only brief cooking (or none at all) to be at its best. We especially like it when simply steamed, with little embellishment other than a few classic flavor pairings, like the ones below. Choose asparagus that is uniform in size for even cooking.
SERVES 6
2 bunches asparagus (2 pounds), trimmed
Coarse salt
Place asparagus in a steamer insert set in a pot filled with 1 inch of water. Cover and bring to a boil. Steam until tender, 2 to 6 minutes (depending on thickness). Remove from heat and season with salt. Top as desired.
1
WITH
MINT BUTTER
Melt 1 stick unsalted butter in a small saucepan over medium heat with ½ cup packed finely chopped mint leaves, and season with coarse salt and freshly ground pepper. Heat until just bubbling around edges. Drizzle mint butter over asparagus, and toss gently to coat. Garnish with whole mint leaves.
2
WITH
EGGS MIMOSA
In a small bowl, whisk together 1 tablespoon white-wine vinegar and 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard, then season with coarse salt and freshly ground pepper. Add 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil in a slow, steady stream, whisking until combined. Pass 1 large peeled hard-cooked egg through a fine-meshed sieve into another bowl. Spoon vinaigrette over asparagus, and top with sieved egg.
3
WITH
LEMON AÏOLI
Chop 2 garlic cloves on a cutting board, and add a pinch of coarse salt. Mash into a paste with knife’s flat side (or in a mortar and pestle). Whisk 2 large egg yolks with ½ teaspoon salt in a bowl. Slowly add 1 tablespoon each fresh lemon juice and water, and whisk until thoroughly blended. Add 1¾ cups extra-virgin olive oil in a slow, steady stream, whisking until combined. Stir in garlic mixture. Serve as a dip for steamed asparagus. (Aïoli can be refrigerated, covered, up to 2 days. If aïoli separates, whisk 1 egg yolk with 1 tablespoon tepid water in a bowl; gradually whisk into aïoli until combined, then whisk in ¼ cup oil.)
TIP
An asparagus steamer allows the spears to stand upright, so the tougher parts cook faster than the tips, but you can use a regular steamer insert and a pot; you may need to trim the spears to fit in the basket, so they can lay flat.
Egg, Asparagus, and Mushroom Stir-Fry
There may be no better partner for asparagus than egg—you will often find asparagus in omelets and frittatas, in eggs benedict (in place of spinach), topped with mimosa or a poached egg, and in quiches and custards. This egg and asparagus stir-fry includes garlic and scallions, as well as woody, flavorful oyster mushrooms.
SERVES 4
6 large eggs, room temperature
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons safflower oil
2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger (from a 2-inch piece)
1 tablespoon minced garlic (from 2 to 3 cloves)
1 bunch scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced on the bias
12 ounces asparagus, trimmed and sliced on the bias into 3-inch pieces
6 ounces oyster mushrooms, separated into individual caps, large caps halved lengthwise
1 hot red chile pepper, very thinly sliced into rounds
2 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice (from 2 to 3 limes)
1. Whisk eggs with ½ teaspoon salt. Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium high. Swirl in 1 tablespoon oil. Add eggs and cook, undisturbed, until bottom and edges are set, about 30 seconds. Lift up edges of eggs with a heatproof flexible spatula, swirling and tilting pan so runny eggs slide underneath. Cook until eggs are golden in places along the bottom but still very wet on top, about 1 minute more. Gently slide eggs onto a cutting board. Roll them up like a cigar and slice crosswise into ½-inch-thick strips.
2. Wipe skillet clean; return to high heat with remaining 1 tablespoon oil. When oil shimmers, add ginger, garlic, scallions, asparagus, and mushrooms. Cook, stirring frequently, until vegetables are tender and golden brown in places, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in chile and season with black pepper; cook 30 seconds. Add soy sauce, lime juice, and egg strips to skillet, tossing to evenly coat. Serve immediately.
Asparagus and Potato Flatbread
Other than serving shaved asparagus raw in a salad, we like to use it as a topping for flatbread, along with thinly sliced potato and crumbled goat cheese. (The dish makes a nice starter for Easter dinner.) Plump stalks of asparagus yield the optimal number of shavings.
MAKES 2 FLATBREADS
FOR THE DOUGH
¼ teaspoon sugar
1 envelope (¼ ounce) active dry yeast
1 cup warm water (about 110°F)
2¾ cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
1 teaspoon coarse salt
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for bowl
Fine cornmeal, for dusting
FOR THE TOPPINGS
1 Yukon Gold potato, peeled and very thinly sliced
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse salt and ground pepper
1 bunch asparagus (1 pound), trimmed and shaved with a vegetable peeler
4 ounces fresh goat cheese, crumbled (1 cup)
1. Make the dough: In a small bowl, sprinkle sugar and yeast over the warm water; stir with a fork until yeast and sugar dissolve. Let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes. In a food processor, pulse together flour and salt to combine. Add yeast mixture and 2 tablespoons oil; pulse until mixture comes together but is still slightly tacky. Dough should pull away cleanly from your fingers after it’s squeezed. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured work surface; knead four or five times, until a smooth ball forms. Place in a lightly oiled bowl, smooth side up. Cover with plastic wrap; let rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk, about 40 minutes.
2. Punch down dough. Fold dough back onto itself four or five times, then turn smooth side up. Replace plastic wrap; let dough rise again in a warm place until doubled in bulk, 30 to 40 minutes.
3. Preheat oven to 500°F, with racks in middle and lower thirds. Punch down dough; turn out onto a lightly floured work surface. Using a bench scraper or knife, divide dough into two pieces. Knead each four or five times, then form two smooth balls. Return one ball to oiled bowl; cover with plastic wrap. Pat remaining ball into a flattened disk; cover with wrap; let rest 5 minutes. Using your hands or a rolling pin, press or roll out dough balls into two 6-by-16-inch ovals, working from center outward. Transfer to two parchment-lined baking sheets. Brush each with 1 tablespoon oil.
4. Make the toppings: In a bowl, toss potato with 2 teaspoons oil and season with salt and pepper. Arrange slices on dough, leaving a ¼-inch border. Bake until edges of crusts are golden and potato is beginning to crisp around edges, about 12 minutes, rotating halfway through. Reduce heat to 450°F.Toss asparagus with 2 teaspoons oil; season with salt and pepper. Top flatbread with asparagus; bake until asparagus is crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Top with cheese; bake until cheese is warmed through, about 3 minutes more. Drizzle each flatbread with 1 teaspoon oil, then cut into wedges.
Rhubarb Chutney with Pork Roast
Pies and pastries are not the only ways to enjoy rhubarb. The tart stalks also work wonders as an accompaniment to savory foods. They’re excellent pickled, or cooked in a chutney, here with brown sugar, orange zest, and fresh ginger, plus celery (another stalk). Try the chutney as a toast topping along with sliced sharp cheese.
SERVES 6
FOR THE CHUTNEY
½ red onion, cut into ¼-inch-thick rounds
¼ cup golden raisins
1 teaspoon finely grated peeled fresh ginger
Finely grated zest of 1 orange
½ cup dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
¼ cup white-wine vinegar
1 cup packed light-brown sugar
1 pound rhubarb, trimmed and cut into 4-inch lengths
2 celery stalks, cut into 4-inch lengths
FOR THE ROAST PORK
1 small boneless pork loin (about 3 pounds), tied
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
½ cup loosely packed fresh sage or basil leaves
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1. Make the chutney: Bring onion, raisins, ginger, orange zest, wine, vinegar, and brown sugar to a simmer in a saucepan over medium heat.
2. Add rhubarb and celery; cover; reduce heat. Simmer gently until rhubarb is tender but not falling apart, about 5 minutes. Transfer rhubarb to a bowl with a slotted spoon.
3. Continue to simmer liquid until it has thickened and reduced and celery is tender, about 10 minutes more. Transfer to bowl with rhubarb. Let cool, and chill until needed. (Chutney will keep several weeks refrigerated in an airtight container.)
4. Make the pork: Preheat oven to 400°F. Pat pork roast dry and season all over with salt and pepper. Tuck herbs under twine. Heat oil in a large ovenproof skillet over medium. Add pork, fat side down, and cook until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Flip pork and transfer to oven. Cook until an instant-read thermometer inserted into middle reaches 150°F, about 20 minutes. Let rest 10 minutes before slicing and serving with chutney.
TIP
Sample the finished chutney: If it’s too tart, add more brown sugar. If too sweet, add a little more vinegar.
Asparagus, Artichoke, and Farro Salad
To really appreciate the faintly earthy taste of white asparagus, eat it raw, preferably combined with comparably flavored baby artichokes—in other words, in this bright, crisp grain salad. Fresh mint and dill, lemon, and feta round out the flavors.
SERVES 6 TO 8
1¼ cups semipearled farro
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
½ cup chopped red onion
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1 pound baby artichokes, trimmed (see Prepping)
1 bunch white (or green) asparagus (1 pound)
¼ cup fresh mint leaves
⅓ cup chopped fresh dill
6 ounces feta cheese
1. Cover farro with 3 inches of water in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium, and cook until tender but still slightly chewy, 25 to 30 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, combine lemon zest and juice, oil, and onion in a large bowl, then season with salt and pepper. Drain farro and immediately toss with dressing. Let cool completely.
3. Trim and peel asparagus; then slice, on the bias, into ½-inch-thick pieces, leaving tips whole. Add to farro along with mint and dill, tossing to combine. Add feta, drizzle with additional oil, if desired, and serve.
Fennel and Smoked Salmon Salad
Fennel’s mild licorice flavor has an affinity for salty, briny foods, including olives, capers, smoked fish, and sardines. Here, we toss thinly sliced fennel and snipped fronds with lemon zest and juice to create a tart topping that cuts through the richness of smoked salmon. It’s a great dish for brunch or a holiday open house, or to serve with cocktails.
SERVES 4
1 medium fennel bulb, trimmed and thinly sliced, plus ¼ cup fennel fronds
½ teaspoon grated lemon zest, plus 4 teaspoons lemon juice
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
4 ounces thinly sliced smoked salmon
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
Toss sliced fennel and fronds with lemon zest and juice in a bowl; season with salt and pepper. Arrange salmon on a platter. Top with fennel mixture, drizzle with oil, and serve.
Clam Pan Roast with Fennel and Sausage
Many of the seafood stews of the world—bouillabaisse, cioppino, and caldeirada de peixe (from Portugal), among others—all share a common ingredient: fennel. Essentially a creamy stew, the shellfish pan roast is most famously made with oysters, but clams are just as traditional, and often appear in combination with sausage; we include two types, sweet Italian and kielbasa. Pernod and tarragon add more licorice flavor.
SERVES 6
1 garlic clove, minced
1 pound sweet Italian sausage, casing removed
¼ pound kielbasa, cut into ½-inch cubes
12 small red potatoes, halved
3 small fennel bulbs, trimmed and cut into ¼-inch-thick slices
1 small leek, cut into ¼-inch rounds, rinsed well
¼ cup Pernod or other anise-flavored liqueur
1½ cups bottled clam juice (unsalted)
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
2½ pounds littleneck clams, scrubbed
2 large tomatoes, cut into 8 wedges each
¼ cup tarragon leaves
1. Cook garlic and Italian sausage in a Dutch oven or heavy pot over medium heat, stirring and breaking up meat with a spoon, until sausage is no longer pink, about 5 minutes; transfer to a bowl with a slotted spoon. Drain all but 1 tablespoon fat from skillet. Cook kielbasa until crisp, stirring occasionally, 8 to 10 minutes. Add to bowl.
2. Arrange potatoes in pan, cut side down; cook until golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Flip potatoes; cook until just tender, about 5 minutes. Scatter fennel over potatoes. Cook until fennel is tender, stirring frequently, about 10 minutes.
3. Add leek, Pernod, and clam juice. Season with salt and pepper. Cook until vegetables are tender, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. Return sausage mixture to pan; stir to combine. Add clams, cover, and cook 5 minutes. Add tomatoes; cook, covered, until clams open, about 8 minutes.
4. Discard any unopened clams, and remove pan from heat. Stir in tarragon and serve.
TIP
To clean clams, rinse them under cold running water and scrub the shells with a stiff sponge or vegetable brush. Discard any that are chipped or open.
Celery, Cilantro, and Almond Salad
For some people, the tender leaves that top the inner celery stalks are the best part. In pretty shades of yellow and green, they have a delicate celery flavor. They also make a wonderful salad “green” that can be tossed with vinaigrette.
SERVES 4
¼ cup almonds
6 small celery stalks (from 1 bunch), thinly sliced on the bias, tender leaves reserved
1½ cups fresh cilantro leaves
⅔ cup dried cherries
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Coarse salt
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Toast almonds on a rimmed baking sheet until fragrant and darkened, tossing occasionally, 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer to a plate; let cool, then coarsely chop.
2. Combine celery (stalks and leaves), cilantro, dried cherries, and almonds in a bowl. Drizzle with oil and lemon juice, and season with salt. Toss to coat and serve.
TIP
Always seek out celery bunches with the most leaves at farmstands and greenmarkets (and even at some supermarkets).
Braised Celery
A long, slow braise transforms the taste and texture of celery so it’s more mellow and almost silken. Here, the heads are left intact and halved lengthwise, exposing the hearts. (Be sure to peel the outer stalks to remove the strings.) Finishing the dish under the broiler results in a nicely browned top. Serve with roast turkey or pork.
SERVES 8 TO 10
2 large heads celery, outer stalks removed
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
4 to 6 large thyme sprigs
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
2½ cups low-sodium chicken broth
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1. Preheat oven to 375°F, with rack in upper third. Cut each head of celery in half lengthwise, and peel larger stalks with a vegetable peeler. Trim ¼ inch from bases (keeping heads intact), then trim tops so each half is about 12 inches long. Arrange celery in a single layer, cut sides up, in a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Season generously with salt and pepper, scatter with thyme, and dot with butter. Pour in broth and oil.
2. Cover with parchment-lined foil. Bake until celery is tender and easily pierced with the tip of a knife, 40 to 45 minutes. Turn oven to broil, and remove foil. Spoon braising juices over celery, and broil until lightly charred in places, 5 to 10 minutes.
