Whether destined to become pea or pumpkin, a vegetable seed begins life the same way. When conditions are right, it drops anchor, sending out a little root sprout to secure it to the soil. Next, it raises a slender cotyledon, a leaf shoot that’s already present inside each seed. Its tiny wings thus outstretched, the plant can begin taking in the minerals, water, and sunlight it needs to pursue its vegetable destiny.
We humans find deliciousness wherever nature hides it, so it’s no wonder we enjoy these earliest stages of plant life. The pale, crisp sprouts that show up in pad thai are infant roots from mung or soybean seeds; the fluffy green sprouts piled up on sandwiches come typically from alfalfa or radish seeds. And the beautiful tangles of miniature leaves crowning many restaurant creations consist of pea shoots or microgreens, the first true leaves of peas, beets, and other vegetables. Even ferns may be eaten at this infant stage of development—as fiddleheads, the tightly spiraled fronds of plants that actually turn toxic when full grown.
Shoots reward impatience: most can be eaten within a week of planting. But speed isn’t their only virtue; microgreens are dense with flavor and nutrients. When you harvest these crops young, the nutrients are more concentrated than in a full-grown plant. The flavors in shoots are intensified, too: Radish sprouts taste like radishes; sunflower greens are nutty. So you can let nature prepare these vegetables for you, and transform something inedible into a nourishing treat.
SEASONALITY
Fiddleheads are available April through June. Pea shoots turn up in spring and fall if they’ve been thinned from pea crops; but if you find a purveyor who cultivates them as a crop in their own right, they may be offered year-round, which is also true of most microgreens. Sprouts, too, are grown indoors and available year-round.
BUYING
Look for crisp, brightly colored pea shoots and microgreens at farmers’ markets and specialty stores. Certain purveyors will harvest them on the spot, cutting the tiny plants from the trays in which they germinated. Often foraged rather than cultivated, fiddleheads also show up most often at greenmarkets; select small, tightly coiled fronds with little to no stalk, and only from the ostrich fern—other species should be avoided. As for sprouts, look for those with crisp, white “necks” without a trace of browning or wilting, and be sure to buy from a reputable source; the same warm, moist conditions that allow seeds to germinate can also breed pathogens. (That’s why the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention and other federal agencies charged with food safety advise children, the elderly, pregnant women, and persons with weakened immune systems to avoid eating raw sprouts of any kind, including alfalfa, clover, radish, and mung bean sprouts. In these instances, cook sprouts thoroughly to reduce the risk of illness. Cooking should kill the harmful bacteria.)
NOTABLE VARIETIES
Microgreens: You can find micro-crops of many different herbs, vegetables, even grains at gourmet grocers and farmers’ markets. Cress is intensely flavorful with subtle spice; arugula has a mild peppery flavor; beet greens, broccoli, and kale are all mild and slightly sweet with tender leaves on a crunchy stem; mustard greens taste like horseradish; mizuna is fairly mild; tatsoi has a mild, sweet, cabbage-like flavor. Herb microgreens taste like concentrated versions of the herbs; basil, chervil, cilantro, dill, and garlic chives are all worth seeking out. Sunflower greens are nutty and delicious; amaranth is mildly spicy and a vibrant shade of pink-red.
Sprouts: While alfalfa sprouts are by far the most common (and easiest to find), there are many others that are sold at natural-food stores and farmers’ markets. Clover sprouts are similar in appearance and flavor to alfalfa; radish sprouts are considered the spiciest; lentil sprouts have a peppery taste; sunflower sprouts are mild and slightly sweet, similar to alfalfa; mung bean sprouts are crisp and nutty; garbanzo sprouts, which look just like the beans, are very crunchy and beany; adzuki sprouts have a pronounced leafy flavor.
Shoots, sprouts, microgreens, and fiddleheads should be eaten within a day of purchase. Store sprouts wrapped in paper towels in an open plastic bag in the refrigerator. Shoots, microgreens, or fiddleheads may be enclosed in a loosely folded plastic bag.
PREPPING
Wash sprouts thoroughly, first submerging them in several changes of cool water, then rinse and dry well. Gently rinse pea shoots and microgreens and spin dry. With fiddleheads, first brush off any fuzzy or papery sheaths, then submerge them in a bowl filled with cool water mixed with a squeeze of lemon and a dash of salt.
COOKING
Eaten raw, microgreens and pea shoots show off their intense, green vitality; add them to salads or sprinkle them over main dishes such as fish or steak. They can also be stirred into risottos and other stews at the last minute, where they will wilt in the residual heat. Delicate sprouts such as alfalfa and radish are best in salads and sandwiches, while crisper mung and soy bean sprouts are often sautéed with stir-fries a minute or two before serving, in addition to being used as a garnish. Fiddleheads are best lightly steamed or blanched, then sautéed in oil or butter.
FLAVOR PAIRINGS
Fiddleheads have echoes of asparagus and green beans and can be used in similar ways to both of those “grassy” vegetables—namely in egg dishes, salads, and with lamb or fish. Think of pea shoots as sprightly versions of peas and pair them accordingly (with other spring produce, salty hams, rich cheeses, rice, and other grains). In the case of flavor partners, there are basically two kinds of sprouts: those that are delicate in texture (alfalfa and radish) and the sturdier bean sprouts (mung and chickpea). As for microgreens, use them wherever you want the flavor of the mature vegetable—peppery arugula or cress, say, or sweet, earthy beet greens—minus the bulk.
BEAN SPROUTS: lime, soy sauce, fish sauce, ginger, sesame, garlic, scallions, cucumber, cilantro, peanuts, shrimp
DELICATE SPROUTS: lemon, tomato, cucumber, radish, carrot, avocado, goat cheese
FIDDLEHEADS: butter, eggs, sharp cheese, lemon, vinaigrette, basil, tarragon
MICROGREENS: eggs, lemon, goat cheese, blue cheese, almonds, fennel
PEA SHOOTS: bacon, prosciutto, feta cheese, wild mushrooms, salmon, ginger, radish, mint
Sesame Salmon with Shiitake Mushrooms and Shoots
Fiddlehead and Potato Hash with Eggs
Kale and Lentil Bowl with Sprouts
Sautéed Snow Peas and Pea Shoots
Avocado-and-Sprout Club Sandwiches
Sesame Salmon with Shiitake Mushrooms and Shoots
Shoots make a refreshing change of pace from tender herbs such as parsley, mint, or basil, and their taste is just as versatile. Here, fresh shoots serve as a last-minute (but essential) garnish for steamed salmon and shiitakes; black sesame seeds are also sprinkled on top. The heat from the fish helps to release just enough of the shoots’ flavor.
SERVES 4
2 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon finely grated peeled fresh ginger
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
4 cups thinly sliced shiitake mushrooms (8 ounces)
4 boneless, skinless salmon fillets, preferably wild sockeye (each 5 ounces and 1 inch thick)
Coarse salt
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
1 teaspoon black sesame seeds
2 ounces microgreens, radish sprouts, or pea shoots
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Cut four 12-by-17-inch pieces of parchment. Fold each in half crosswise to form a crease, then open and place on work surface.
2. Combine soy sauce, ginger, and lemon juice in a small bowl. Add mushrooms and toss to combine. Divide evenly among parchment pieces, arranging mixture on one side of each crease. Lay one salmon fillet on top of each pile. Season with salt and drizzle with sesame oil. Fold parchment over ingredients, then make overlapping pleats to seal.
3. Bake on two baking sheets (two packets per sheet), 10 to 11 minutes for medium rare or 12 minutes for medium. Carefully open the packets. Top salmon with sesame seeds and shoots, and serve.
Fiddlehead and Potato Hash with Eggs
The shoots of the ostrich fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris), fiddleheads get their name from their shape: The tight coils resemble the scroll carving at the top of a violin. They grow near streams and rivers in the eastern half of the United States and Canada, and they are harvested by hand. Here they are blanched, then cooked in a skillet with potatoes and eggs for a great one-pot meal.
SERVES 4
1½ pounds small potatoes, scrubbed and halved
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
8 ounces fiddlehead ferns, cleaned and trimmed
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 shallot, thinly sliced
4 large eggs
1. Bring potatoes and enough water to cover to a boil in a medium pot; add salt and cook until potatoes are knife-tender, about 8 minutes. Add fiddleheads and cook just until bright green, about 1 minute more. Drain potatoes and fiddleheads.
2. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium high. Cook shallot until golden, stirring frequently, about 2 minutes. Add potatoes and fiddleheads, and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, about 4 minutes.
3. Push potatoes and fiddleheads to one side, then crack eggs into pan on the other side. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, undisturbed, 4 minutes. Remove from heat; let stand until whites are set but yolks are still runny, about 4 minutes more. Serve immediately.
Kale and Lentil Bowl with Sprouts
Alfalfa and other sprouts have long been used to lend any dish instant health-food credibility. That’s still true today, as in this of-the-moment macro bowl. Thinly sliced raw kale and tender lentils may be the feature players, but sprouts (we use sunflower) are just as necessary to the blend of flavors and textures. A creamy avocado-garlic dressing, sliced sharp cheddar, and chopped almonds make this hearty and substantial.
SERVES 4
Coarse salt
1¼ cups de Puy lentils, picked over and rinsed
1 ripe avocado, halved, pitted, and peeled
1 teaspoon minced garlic
2 tablespoons minced shallot
¼ cup fresh lemon juice, plus cut lemons for serving
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 bunch Tuscan (or Lacinato) kale (10 ounces), stems trimmed, leaves thinly sliced
4 ounces sunflower or radish sprouts
Slices of extra-sharp cheddar, for serving
Chopped roasted salted almonds, for serving
1. In a medium saucepan of salted boiling water, cook lentils until tender but not mushy, about 20 minutes. Drain, rinse under cold water to stop the cooking, and drain again.
2. Pulse together avocado, garlic, shallot, lemon juice, oil, and 1 teaspoon salt in a blender or food processor until smooth.
3. Toss two-thirds of dressing with kale in a bowl. Divide dressed kale among four serving bowls. Add lentils, sprouts, cheddar, and almonds to each bowl. Serve, with remaining dressing and lemons on the side.
Sautéed Snow Peas and Pea Shoots
The edible shoots and curly tendrils of pea plants can withstand brief cooking. Just 30 seconds is all it takes for the shoots to wilt and take on the flavors of accompaniments like garlic and red-pepper flakes. Here they are paired with snow peas, part of the category of legumes known as mange-touts—or “eat all.”
SERVES 4
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, sliced
Pinch of red-pepper flakes
8 ounces snow peas, trimmed
8 ounces pea shoots
1 tablespoon water
Coarse salt
½ lemon, for serving
1. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium high. Add garlic and red-pepper flakes, and cook, stirring, until garlic is golden, about 1 minute. Add snow peas and cook, stirring, until bright green and still crisp, about 1 minute.
2. Add pea shoots in batches along with the water. Cook, stirring, until just wilted, about 30 seconds. Season with salt, squeeze lemon over top, and serve.
Avocado-and-Sprout Club Sandwiches
One of the golden rules of sandwich making is to use contrasting flavors and textures. Consider the classic California vegetable sandwich, which wouldn’t be the same without crunchy sprouts, creamy avocado, sharp radish, and tangy goat cheese.
SERVES 4
Assorted vegetables, such as cucumbers, red onions, lettuce, carrots, and radishes
2 ripe but firm avocados, halved, pitted, and peeled
12 slices whole-grain bread, toasted
4 ounces alfalfa, clover, or garbanzo sprouts
8 ounces fresh goat cheese, room temperature
Olive oil, for drizzling
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1. Slice vegetables into thin rounds or matchsticks, as desired; tear lettuce and slice avocados. Dividing evenly, layer vegetables on 8 toast slices. Top with sprouts. Spread goat cheese on remaining 4 toast slices; then drizzle with oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
2. Stack sandwiches so that each has two layers of vegetables and one of cheese (cheese side down). Cut in half and serve.
Pad Thai
Bean sprouts, which are made from sprouting mung beans, are a traditional component of many Thai dishes, including pad thai. In this version, some of the sprouts are stir-fried with the noodles just until wilted, and the rest are used as a crisp, cool garnish along with sliced radishes, cilantro sprigs, and lime wedges.
SERVES 4
4 ounces boneless pork loin, cut into ¼-inch slices, then into 1½-inch pieces
1 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons tamarind concentrate
2 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce
2 tablespoons Thai fish sauce (nam pla)
4 tablespoons peanut or safflower oil
2 or 3 garlic cloves, minced
2 to 3 ounces pressed tofu, cut into ¼-inch slices, then into 1½-inch pieces
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
Coarse salt
8 ounces dried rice-stick noodles, soaked (see tip below)
8 ounces bean sprouts, rinsed and drained (about 4 cups)
3 scallions, trimmed, flattened with the side of cleaver, and cut into 1½-inch pieces
1 tablespoon dried shrimp, chopped
1 cup dry-roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped
Thinly sliced radishes, sliced Thai chiles, cilantro leaves, and lime wedges, for serving
1. Toss pork with sugar in a small bowl to mix. Combine tamarind concentrate, soy sauce, and fish sauce in another small bowl.
2. Heat a large wok or skillet over medium-high until very hot. Add 2 tablespoons oil and swirl to coat. Cook garlic, turning, until golden, about 15 seconds. Add pork, spreading into a single layer. Cook until golden on all sides, about 1 minute total. Add tofu and sear, pressing it against sides of wok, 10 to 20 seconds. Transfer to a plate.
3. Season eggs with salt and pour into wok. Cook until starting to set, about 1 minute. Using a spatula, cut into large pieces, and transfer to plate.
4. Raise heat to high and heat wok until sizzling hot. Add 1 tablespoon oil and swirl to coat. Cook noodles, tossing frequently and pressing against sides of wok to sear, until softened, 2 to 3 minutes.
5. Push noodles up sides of wok and add remaining tablespoon oil to bottom, along with 2½ cups bean sprouts and the scallions. Cook, tossing, until wilted, 1 to 2 minutes. Add dried shrimp and toss briefly to heat through. Add soy-sauce mixture. Cook, tossing, about 30 seconds. Incorporate noodles. Add pork mixture, eggs, and ½ cup peanuts; toss gently to combine.
6. Divide among bowls and top with remaining 1½ cups bean sprouts and ½ cup peanuts, and assorted garnishes.
TIP
Rice-noodle sticks don’t have to be cooked before using; just soak them in boiling water until tender, according to package instructions.