It’s a riddle befitting the Mad Hatter, this when-is-a-vegetable-not-a-vegetable question. But it takes more than just tea-party nonsense to make tomatoes, peppers, and avocados qualify as botanical fruits. By definition, fruits are seed packages—a plant’s bid for future generations—wrapped in delectable, fragrant flesh, covered by a skin whose color appeals to hungry animals. A form of communication not just between species but also across taxonomic kingdoms, fruits tempt mobile creatures into acting as agents for the plant, carrying the seeds in their digestive tracts, and then depositing them far from home. Even the fieriest chiles utilize the services of birds to distribute their seeds; certain species of tropical birds are immune to the chiles’ heat.
So why do we call certain fruits vegetables? The answer is surprisingly unscientific. Sometimes it has to do with their sugar content. Tomatoes, for example, are about 3 percent sugar, while peaches and plums are 10 percent. But that rule doesn’t apply to winter squashes such as butternuts and pumpkins, which are not only sweet but also as comfortably at home on the dessert plate as on the dinner plate. In those cases, the classification seems to have to do with the fact that we never eat them raw, as we do with other fruits. Yet avocados and cucumbers are almost always eaten raw, and we consider them vegetables; in their case, it’s back to the sugar content. Ultimately, one fact escapes confusion: These fruits are among the most popular in the vegetable kingdom.
SEASONALITY
Nearly all these fruits/vegetables are summer babies, turning bright and plump in the hot sun of July and August. Sweet peppers and chiles ripen into early fall. And, as their name implies, winter squashes mature in cool weather; harvested September through November (“autumn squashes” would be a more apt name), they are sold throughout the winter, when their rich, earthy flavors are appreciated.
BUYING
Fruits acquire flavors, sugars, and nutrients from the parent plant, so the best ones are allowed to ripen in the field and sold close to where they’re grown. In other words, this category is especially worth seeking out at farmstands and greenmarkets. Look for cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes, summer squash (including zucchini), and eggplants that feel taut and smooth-skinned, and are heavy for their size, with vivid, deep color. The same criteria apply to winter squash such as hubbard, butternut, and kabocha. As for size, it doesn’t much matter except with eggplants and summer squash—the smaller ones are far superior in texture because their cell walls toughen and fill with water as they grow, becoming stringy, bland, and watery. As for tomatillos, select those with loose, papery husks and no bruises. The exception to the close-to-home rule is avocados: They originated in Mexico and Guatemala, and so the best U.S.-grown ones come from California and Florida. Avocados are picked hard and they ripen only after harvest. Because they bruise easily when ripe, it’s best to buy them when they’re still firm and let them soften at home, placing them in a paper bag on the kitchen counter until barely soft.
NOTABLE VARIETIES
Avocados: At any time of year, there will be an avocado in season, and it’s worth looking for them at farmers’ markets in California and Florida, and at specialty food stores everywhere else. Most California varieties originated in Guatemala: the well-known Hass avocado; pear-shaped Fuerte, with skin that remains bright green, even when very ripe; and round Reed, with thick green skin that’s easy to peel. In Florida, you are more likely to find West Indian varieties such as Booth, Lula, and Taylor, which come into season in the middle of summer. Mexican varieties tend to be on the smaller side; the most popular are the Bacon (slightly brownish skin that’s easy to peel) and the Zutano (jade green skin and creamy yellow flesh).
Cucumbers: Many so-called slicing cucumbers are cultivated to have seeds that are barely perceptible, with very tender skins, meaning no seeding or peeling is required. Besides English cucumbers, there are little Persian cucumbers and striking Armenian cucumbers with pale striped skin, smooth-skinned Mediterranean (or Lebanese) cucumbers, and long, dark-green Japanese cucumbers, which resemble English ones but have bumpy skins. Pickling cucumbers tend to be shorter, thicker, and bumpier; Kirby and Liberty are the most common of these.
Eggplants: This fruit is cultivated around the world in a range of colors, shapes, and sizes that go beyond the hefty dark-purple globes found in our grocery stores. Italian breeds include Barbarella, which can grow up to half a foot wide and nearly as long; squat, oval Beatrice, which is mild and creamy; streaky, thick-skinned Nubia; and white Clara eggplants, which are meaty and mild. Chinese and Japanese eggplants are typically long, slim, and delicate tasting, while the smaller, rounder Asian varieties such as Calliope (or Indian) and Kermits (or Thai) are fast cooking and rarely bitter. You’ll know Graffiti eggplants by their violet and white stripes with velvety flesh; at a mere 2 to 4 inches, Fairy Tales are less seedy than globes and, hence, less bitter.
Peppers and chiles: These come in many different shapes, colors, and heat levels. Among bell peppers, there are Purple Bell, Chocolate Beauty, and Dove (white- or ivory-skinned). Hot chiles include: Anaheim, from New Mexico; Cascabel; Cayenne; Chilaca, the name for a green fruit of a pasilla pepper, which translates as “little raisin” owing to its dried dark-brown pods; Chiltepin, the closest thing to the original wild pepper (and, when dried, the world’s second-most-expensive spice, after saffron); Cubanelle, a long sweet pepper that’s also known as Italian frying pepper; Manzano; Padrón (or shishito) peppers; and Asian chiles such as Thai Hot and Thai Bird. Wax peppers, so called for their shiny, polished-looking skins, include Hungarian Wax, Sante Fe Grande, and Yellow Banana.
Summer squashes: The vast range may come as a surprise to many of us. Crookneck squash such as Horn of Plenty are so-named for their curvaceous shapes. Pattypan squash such as Butter Scallop are also named for their squat shapes. Baby squash, including Butterstick and Sunburst, are picked when young. Of the straight-necked varieties, there’s Zebra Zuke, a striking zucchini with light- and dark-green stripes, and two-toned Zephyrs. Then there are round varieties, including Ronde de Nice, an heirloom zucchini with creamy flesh and tender skin; Cousa, used in Middle Eastern cooking, which is tender and sweet; and Tatuma, a Mexican variety that resembles Cousa but with a very thin skin (and very few seeds).
Tomatoes: Everyone’s favorite summer fruit begs to be explored; start with exceptionally sweet Sun Gold, a type of cherry tomato with a golden-orange flesh. Then there are hundreds of heirloom varieties: Brandywine has excellent flavor and slightly purple skin when ripe; round Black Russian has a rich flavor, while Purple Russian is a meaty plum tomato; Cherokee Purple is a beefsteak-style tomato prized for its exceptional flavor; Speckled Roman is another excellent plum tomato; Big Rainbow is rich and melony; Black Cherry is complex and mild, with a slight acid tang; Green Doctor is sweet, with good acidic balance; Reisetomate has strong tomato flavor; Green Zebra and Yellow Peach are slightly tart; and Jaune Flamme is wonderfully fruity.
Winter squashes: Similar to gourds that are harvested in the summer, those that are found in fall and winter come in an arresting array of shapes, colors, textures, and sizes. Calabaza (or West Indian Pumpkin) has a sweet, juicy golden flesh similar to butternut; delicata has fine, creamy flesh and tender skin that can be eaten (as with acorn squash); bumpy-skinned hubbards have thick, sweet meat; Hokkaidos are choice Japanese varieties with dry, flaky, sweet flesh; kabocha is another Japanese variety with a similar taste and texture; New England Pie (or Small Sugar Pumpkin) has smooth, very sweet flesh that’s ideal for pie making; single-serving-size Sweet Dumplings have two-toned skins; Cheese Pumpkin (named for its shape, which resembles a flattened cheese box) is fine-grained and sweet; Cushaw has sweet, moist, pale-yellow flesh; White Swan is an acorn-type squash in shape and flavor, with creamy-white skin; Rouge vif d’Etampes, also known as Cinderella, is an heirloom French variety with dense, flavorful flesh.
STORING
The rule of thumb with storing fruits is to mimic the climate in which they ripen. Tomatoes, avocados, eggplant, tomatillos, and peppers are all hot-weather, full-sunshine crops, and they suffer cell damage if refrigerated—tomatoes turn mealy; eggplants and avocados grow spongy and gray-brown inside. Because zucchini and cucumbers grow in the cool shade of their plants’ broad leaves, they can withstand a brief spell of refrigeration. Winter squashes prefer cool temperatures around 50°F, but won’t be harmed by a few days in the refrigerator, if you can’t eat them right away.
PREPPING
Cut avocados lengthwise around the pit and twist to separate the halves, then use a large spoon to scoop out the flesh, or peel away the skin and slice the flesh—dousing it with citrus juice or vinegar as you work to keep it from browning.
Depending on variety, cucumbers may be seedy or seedless (as with English cucumbers), and may be thin-skinned or thick; the latter should be peeled before use (especially if they’re waxed). To remove seeds, cut in half lengthwise, then scoop out with a teaspoon. Don’t dress or salt cucumbers until just before serving or they will turn watery.
Examine summer squash closely: many need only a good rinse, but if they lay against the dirt as they ripened, they might need a gentle scrub.
The skin of winter squashes can be linoleum-hard; if your recipe calls for skinless wedges or chunks, it may be necessary to slice the squash into wedges before paring the skin away with a small knife or peeler.
Water between the cell walls gives eggplant its spongy texture; roasting or baking evaporates it, but if you’re frying eggplant or using it in stews, you can make the flesh firmer by salting the slices first, and laying them in a colander or on a rack to drain.
To cut raw sweet peppers, stand them on end and cut the flesh from top to bottom; remove ribs and seeds with a knife. When cutting chiles, always use gloves, and don’t touch your eyes or nose or any other sensitive areas until you’ve washed your hands. Leave ribs and seeds unless you prefer a milder heat.
Remove tomatillos’ papery husks before cooking, and rinse off the sticky coating (from bitter-tasting saponins) on the fruits’ skin.
As for tomatoes, if you wish to remove their skins, cut a small, shallow X into the skin at the rounded end, dunk them in rapidly boiling water for 15 seconds, then transfer to an ice-water bath. The skin will easily peel away. Otherwise, to remove the seedy flesh, core and quarter tomatoes lengthwise, flatten each piece with the inside up, and scrape it clean with a knife; then you can easily cut those pieces into a fine dice or as desired.
COOKING
Most fruits are incredibly versatile when it comes to cooking. Even avocados can be grilled or broiled until charred (perfect for topping toasts), and cucumbers take well to sautéing. Summer squash responds well to a range of treatments, and is also excellent grated and fried into crisp cakes or fritters, or baked into quick breads. Tomatoes and peppers can be cooked almost any which way—stewed, baked, roasted, simmered, puréed. Although tomatillos are related to tomatoes, they’re much less versatile and best used to make sauces and salsas; try roasting the tomatillos first until blackened to add a smoky, charred flavor. Eggplant, too, is fussy about how it’s prepared; its spongy flesh quickly becomes waterlogged or leaden with oil if drenched. However, roasting or grilling—dry heat techniques—compresses its flesh and undoes the mealiness. If you start with whole or halved roasted eggplants, you can scoop out the creamy insides to make baba ganoush and other purées; slices or chunks turn almost meaty, and can be tossed into sauces and spreads, or used to top pizza. Winter squashes can be roasted (whole or cut into pieces), simmered in soups and stews, braised, baked (with or without stuffing), boiled and mashed or puréed, or steamed.
HOW TO STEAM
(For eggplants, summer squashes, winter squashes)
Cut eggplant and summer squash into 1-inch-thick rounds; peel and seed winter squash and cut into 1-inch pieces. Place in a steamer basket (or colander) set in a pot with 2 inches water. Bring to a boil, cover, and steam until tender, 5 to 10 minutes. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.
(For eggplants, summer squashes, winter squashes)
Cut eggplant and summer squash into uniform pieces (cubes, rounds, or lengthwise strips). Peel winter squashes (except acorn and delicata, which do not need to be peeled) and remove seeds. Drizzle with olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss to combine. Spread evenly on a rimmed baking sheet and roast at 450°F, tossing once or twice, until tender and golden brown, 20 to 30 minutes.
(For peppers and chiles)
Roast whole peppers and chiles directly over the flame of a gas burner until blackened and blistered, turning with kitchen tongs (alternately, roast under the broiler). Place in a bowl, cover, and let steam about 10 minutes. Rub off skin with paper towels; use a paring knife for stubborn spots. Cut as desired or specified in a recipe and remove ribs and seeds of bell peppers; leave ribs and seeds in chiles for more heat. Toss with olive oil and salt and pepper, to taste.
(For tomatoes)
Halve plum tomatoes and arrange, cut side up, on a rimmed baking sheet. Brush with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper; add a few herb sprigs, such as thyme or oregano, along with some sliced garlic cloves. Slow-roast in a 350°F oven until softened, about 1 hour. Let cool and refrigerate, covered, up to 5 days.
HOW TO SAUTÉ
(For all fruit except avocados)
Leave cherry or grape tomatoes whole or cut in half; halve plum tomatoes, scoop out pulp if desired, and then finely chop flesh. Halve cucumbers lengthwise and scoop out any seeds. Halve peppers and chiles, and remove ribs and seeds from peppers. Husk and rinse tomatillos. Peel and seed winter squash. Cut vegetables into 1-inch pieces; summer squash can also be grated on the large holes of a box grater. Heat olive oil or butter in a large skillet over medium high. Add vegetables; season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until tender and golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes, depending on size of pieces. Sprinkle with lemon juice or vinegar, season with salt, and top with chopped fresh herbs.
HOW TO GRILL
(For avocados)
Brush a halved avocado (peeled and pitted) with lime juice and olive oil. Grill over medium heat, cut side down, 1 to 2 minutes. Rotate to create cross-hatch marks, and grill 1 minute more. Season with salt and pepper.
(For eggplants and summer squashes)
Cut eggplant and summer squash into ½-inch-thick slices. Brush both sides with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Grill over medium-high heat until charred in spots, about 5 minutes; flip slices and cook until charred on other side, about 5 minutes more. Drizzle with more oil and sprinkle with chopped herbs.
(For peppers and chiles)
Halve bell peppers lengthwise, and remove ribs and seeds. Grill over medium-high heat, cut sides down, until beginning to soften, about 5 minutes; flip peppers and cook until charred in spots, about 5 minutes more. Cut into thin strips. Toss with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper to taste.
(For tomatoes)
Halve plum tomatoes lengthwise. Toss with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Grill over medium-high heat, cut sides down, until charred in spots, about 5 minutes; flip tomatoes and cook until charred on other side, about 5 minutes more.
FLAVOR PAIRINGS
New World natives—tomatoes, summer squashes, sweet peppers, and chiles—all pair beautifully with one another, and with most Mexican and Central American flavorings: corn, cilantro, onions, lime. But they are equally at home in Mediterranean dishes flavored with olive oil, oregano, thyme, or basil. And they complement a variety of cheeses, including sharp Parmesan, chalky feta and cotija, and mild and milky mozzarella. Combined with eggplant, they become the classic Provençal ratatouille. Eggplant can go in many other directions as well— its smoky, slightly bitter flavor complements deeply umami miso in Japanese dishes or tahini and lemon in Middle Eastern dishes. Tomatillos turn up most often in Mexican sauces, paired with onion, garlic, and sometimes pulverized pumpkin seeds. Buttery avocado is enlivened by all kinds of citrus—grapefruit, lime, lemon, orange—as well as salty bacon and fresh herbs. And chiles, whether fresh or dried, whole or ground, bring heat and flavor to chicken, shrimp, beef, pork, vegetable, and grain dishes the world over, from Thailand to the Caribbean, Italy to India, Mexico to Morocco.
AVOCADO: chiles, cilantro, lime, crab, shrimp, tomato, bacon, red onion
CHILES: tomatoes, lime, cilantro, curry powder, cumin, coconut, onions, garlic, sugar, chicken, shellfish, pork, beef
CUCUMBER: mint, dill, vinegar, onion, yogurt, garlic, lemon, salmon
EGGPLANT: mozzarella, tomatoes, basil, anchovies, soy sauce, sesame, yogurt, lentils
SUMMER SQUASHES: basil, tomato, ricotta, eggplant, chiles, parsley, oregano, garlic
SWEET PEPPERS: onions, garlic, sausage, tomatoes, vinegar, potatoes, goat cheese
TOMATILLOS: cilantro, onion, garlic, tomatoes, tequila, fish, chicken, pork, avocado
TOMATOES: basil, thyme, mint, garlic, onion, peppers, goat cheese, mozzarella, fennel
WINTER SQUASHES: sage, nutmeg, butter, bacon, maple, coconut, ginger
Pasta with Marinated Heirloom Tomatoes
Blistered Eggplant with Tomatoes, Olives, and Feta
Breaded Eggplant with Arugula and Parmesan
Pasta with Zucchini, Mint, and Pecorino
Pickled Jalapeños and Cucumbers
Blistered Padrón Peppers with Sea Salt
Whole Baked Trout with Cherry Tomatoes and Potatoes
Cucumber, Mango, and Shrimp Escabèche
Chilled Melon, Cucumber, and Mint Soup
Stuffed Tomatoes with Mozzarella
Butternut Squash and Taleggio Pizza
Roasted Acorn Squash, Three Ways
Butternut Squash and Kale Hash
Pasta with Marinated Heirloom Tomatoes
Heirloom tomatoes, designated as such because the seeds have been saved by growers over generations, are celebrated for their imperfections (unlike commercially grown hybrids, bred for durability and uniformity rather than taste). Here, we marinate them for a half hour with garlic oil and other seasonings to create a no-cook sauce that’s tossed with ribbons of pasta.
SERVES 8
5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 pounds assorted heirloom tomatoes, sliced into wedges
¾ cup fresh basil, torn if large
3 tablespoons capers, preferably salt-packed, rinsed and drained, chopped if large
2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest, plus more for serving
¼ teaspoon red-pepper flakes
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 pound flat pasta such as maltagliati, cooked until al dente
1. Warm garlic and oil in a saucepan over low heat until garlic is pale gold, about 10 minutes. Strain; reserve oil and garlic. Let cool.
2. Combine tomatoes, ¼ cup basil, the capers, lemon zest, and red-pepper flakes in a large bowl, and season with salt. Pour garlic oil and garlic chips over tomato mixture. Cover and let marinate, tossing occasionally, 30 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, cook pasta in a pot of generously salted boiling water until al dente, according to package instructions. Drain.
4. Add warm pasta to tomato mixture and toss gently to combine. Top with remaining ½ cup basil and the lemon zest, season with black pepper, and serve.
TIP
For this dish, boil the pasta about five minutes before the tomatoes are ready. The warmth will bring out the flavors of the fresh ingredients.
Blistered Eggplant with Tomatoes, Olives, and Feta
This salad offers a healthier alternative to frying eggplant: The rounds are simply broiled on a wire rack until blistered, then tossed with olive oil.
SERVES 4
1 large eggplant, cut into ¼-inch-thick rounds
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1¾ pounds mixed tomatoes
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
6 ounces feta cheese, crumbled
½ cup mixed olives
½ cup lightly packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
1. Heat broiler with rack 6 inches from heat source. Place eggplant rounds on a wire rack set on a rimmed baking sheet. Broil until eggplant is blistered and deep brown on one side, 10 to 12 minutes. Flip and broil until blistered on other side, 10 to 12 minutes. Immediately transfer to a large bowl, toss with oil, and cover with a plate. Let stand until softened, about 10 minutes.
2. Arrange eggplant and tomatoes on a platter, seasoning each layer with salt and pepper and drizzling with oil before adding next layer. Top with feta, olives, and parsley, and serve.
Inspired by a recipe of chef Nobu Matsuhisa, owner of celebrated restaurants around the world, this dish features a savory-sweet, irresistible miso glaze.
SERVES 6 TO 8
¾ cup white (shiro) miso
5 tablespoons sugar
5 tablespoons sake
5 tablespoons mirin
Olive oil, for frying
4 Japanese eggplants (about 6 ounces each), halved lengthwise and flesh scored in a cross-hatch pattern
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted
Small cilantro sprigs, for serving
1. Combine miso and sugar in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Whisk in sake and mirin. Bring to a simmer over low heat, and cook, stirring frequently, until sugar is dissolved and color begins to darken, 30 to 45 minutes. Remove from heat.
2. Heat broiler with rack 4 inches from heat source. Line a rimmed baking sheet with paper towels. In a large heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat 2 inches of oil to 360°F. Working in batches, place eggplants in pan, skin side up, and fry 1 minute. Flip and fry 30 seconds more. Transfer to baking sheet; let drain. Return oil to 360°F between batches.
3. Transfer eggplants, skin side down, to another baking sheet. Spread each half with 1 heaping tablespoon miso mixture. Broil until miso begins to caramelize, 1 to 2 minutes. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and cilantro, and serve.
Breaded Eggplant with Arugula and Parmesan
Our vegetarian take on veal Milanese is both crisp (thanks to the panko) and tender (thanks to the texture of eggplant). But using eggplant as a stand-in for meat is nothing new; Italian home cooks have a long tradition of building meals around the creamy-fleshed, earthy-tasting fruit, mostly in the interest of frugality.
SERVES 4
1 large eggplant, cut lengthwise into 1-inch-thick slices
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
¼ cup all-purpose flour
1 large egg, whisked with 1 tablespoon water
2 cups panko or coarse breadcrumbs
Olive oil, for frying
2 cups baby arugula
Shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for serving
Lemon wedges, for serving
1. Place eggplant in a large colander and season generously with salt. Let stand 30 minutes, then rinse and pat dry.
2. Place flour, egg mixture, and breadcrumbs in three separate shallow bowls. Dredge each eggplant slice in flour, turning to coat and shaking off excess, then dip in egg mixture and coat in breadcrumbs.
3. Heat ½ inch oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium. Working in batches, fry eggplant until golden and crisp, about 4 minutes per side. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate and season with salt and pepper.
4. Top each cutlet with arugula and cheese, and serve with a lemon wedge.
Capture the essence of peak-season tomatoes with tomato water, a near-transparent liquid with the sweet taste of the fresh fruit. This summer starter features cherry tomatoes, cucumbers, mango, basil, and thinly sliced chile bathing in tomato essence.
SERVES 4
1 pound very ripe tomatoes, cored and quartered
Coarse salt
1 small ripe mango
1 Kirby or Persian cucumber, cut into matchsticks
1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved or quartered if large
1 red Thai or serrano chile, very thinly sliced on the bias
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
Thai or Italian basil, for serving
1. Purée tomatoes and ¼ teaspoon salt in a blender until smooth, about 1 minute. Line a colander with four layers of dampened cheesecloth and set over a deep pot. Pour tomato purée into colander, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate, stirring occasionally, until 1 to 2 cups tomato water have dripped into pot, about 1 day. Season with salt, if desired.
2. Peel mango and cut flesh from pit; discard pit. Cut flesh lengthwise into ½-inch slices. Toss mango, cucumber, cherry tomatoes, chile, and 1 tablespoon oil. Season with salt and divide salad among four bowls. Divide tomato essence among bowls, top with basil, drizzle with more oil, and serve.
Zucchini is often grated, to use in slaws and raw salads, muffins or quick breads, or vegetable fritters, as in this recipe. The squash is firm enough to easily shred on the large holes of a box grater, yet it cooks up soft and tender.
SERVES 4
1 pound zucchini (about 2 medium), coarsely grated
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1 large egg
2 scallions, finely chopped
½ cup all-purpose flour
½ cup safflower oil
Sour cream, for serving
1. Place zucchini in a colander and toss with 1 teaspoon salt; let drain 10 minutes. Press out as much liquid as possible with a wooden spoon or flexible spatula.
2. Whisk egg in a large bowl; mix in zucchini, scallions, flour, and ¼ teaspoon pepper until combined. Line a plate with paper towels.
3. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium. Working in batches, drop six mounds of batter (2 tablespoons each) into skillet, then flatten slightly with back of spoon. Cook until browned on first side, 2 to 3 minutes; flip fritters and cook until browned on other side, 2 to 3 minutes more. Transfer to the paper-towel-lined plate; sprinkle with salt. Serve with sour cream.
Pasta with Zucchini, Mint, and Pecorino
You can never have enough recipes for zucchini during the summer, especially if you grow your own or belong to a CSA group—this is one vegetable that flourishes in abundance. Here, grated zucchini is sautéed with a few anchovies until tender, then tossed with al dente pasta and some of its cooking water. Fresh mint and sharp Pecorino Romano add flavorful finishes.
SERVES 4
12 ounces short curly pasta, such as gemelli or fusilli
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
3 anchovy fillets, preferably oil-packed, rinsed and patted dry
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 pounds zucchini (about 5 small), coarsely grated
¼ teaspoon red-pepper flakes, plus more for serving
⅔ cup finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese, plus more for serving
¼ cup lightly packed fresh mint leaves, chopped, plus more whole leaves for serving
1. Cook pasta in a large pot of generously salted boiling water until al dente, according to package instructions. Reserve 1½ cups water; drain pasta.
2. Heat a large skillet over medium high. Add oil and swirl to coat. Cook anchovies and garlic, stirring, just until anchovies break down and garlic turns golden, about 30 seconds. Add zucchini and red-pepper flakes; season with salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until zucchini is tender, about 5 minutes. Add pasta and 1 cup reserved pasta water. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until liquid is reduced and slightly thickened, 1 to 2 minutes.
3. Remove from heat; stir in cheese and mint. Add more pasta water if needed, a few tablespoons at a time, until sauce evenly coats pasta. Serve immediately, drizzled with oil and sprinkled with mint, black pepper, red-pepper flakes, and cheese.
TIP
Coarsely grating zucchini, rather than slicing or chopping it, helps make sure the vegetable is evenly distributed when tossed with the pasta. Unlike for fritters, you don’t have to salt and drain the zucchini first, since here the extra moisture is a plus.
Zucchini’s natural water content makes it an asset when baking cake and quick breads, keeping them exceptionally moist. This no-mixer batter is easy to whisk together and is flavored with ground cinnamon, vanilla, and chopped walnuts. The addition of whole-wheat flour and olive oil makes these loaves more wholesome than those made with only all-purpose flour and butter.
MAKES 2 LOAVES
Unsalted butter, room temperature, for pans
1½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for pans
1½ cups whole-wheat flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
1¼ cups sugar
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 large eggs
2½ cups grated zucchini
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
1 cup chopped walnuts
1. Preheat oven to 350°F with rack in the center. Butter two 4½-by-8½-inch loaf pans, then dust with flour, tapping out the excess. Whisk together flours, baking powder, salt, and cinnamon in a large bowl.
2. In another bowl, stir together sugar, oil, eggs, zucchini, and vanilla. Stir zucchini mixture into flour mixture until well blended. Fold in walnuts.
3. Divide batter between prepared pans. Bake until a cake tester inserted into middle of loaves comes out clean, about 40 to 50 minutes. Let cool in pans on a wire rack 15 minutes, then turn out onto racks and let cool completely before serving.
TIP
The loaves will keep well in the freezer for several months; wrap tightly in plastic and store in sealable freezer bags.
Skillet Steak Peperonata
As its name suggests, peperonata is all about the peppers. To make this traditional Sicilian side dish, bell peppers are stewed with onion and garlic until tender; the sweetness is kept in check by a splash of red-wine vinegar. Peperonata is often served with steak, as here (try the combination as a sandwich, too), but also with seared pork chops or sautéed fish, or tossed into salads and pastas.
SERVES 4
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 onion, thinly sliced
1 garlic clove, minced
3 bell peppers, ribs and seeds removed, thinly sliced
1 sprig thyme
1sprig rosemary
Pinch of red-pepper flakes
2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 pound boneless sirloin steak (1 inch thick)
1. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium high. Add onion and garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion turns golden on the edges, about 4 minutes. Add bell peppers, thyme, rosemary, red-pepper flakes, and vinegar; season with salt. Toss to combine, then cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until peppers are tender, about 30 minutes. Transfer to a bowl; cover to keep warm.
2. Wipe out skillet and heat remaining tablespoon oil over medium high. Pat steak dry and season on both sides with salt and black pepper. Cook steak until browned on first side, 3 to 4 minutes. Turn steak and brown on second side, 3 to 4 minutes more for medium rare. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest 10 minutes.
3. Slice steak across the grain into thin strips and return to skillet; add peperonata, toss to combine, and serve.
Pickled Jalapeños and Cucumbers
Pickled jalapeños are a great way to bring a bit of fiery heat to dishes, delivered in a cool, crunchy package. Here, we’ve combined the chiles with two other classic pickling vegetables, cucumbers and onions. Try them with nachos, tacos, chili, sandwiches, or burgers.
MAKES 2½ QUARTS
2 pounds Kirby cucumbers, sliced ¼ inch thick
4 red jalapeño chiles, sliced ¼ inch thick
3 small onions, cut into ½-inch wedges
3 tablespoons coarse salt
2 cups apple cider vinegar
1¾ cups light-brown sugar
1 tablespoon yellow mustard seeds
¾ teaspoon celery seeds
¾ teaspoon ground turmeric
1. Toss together cucumbers, jalapeños, onions, and salt in a bowl. Cover; refrigerate 2 hours.
2. Cook vinegar, sugar, mustard and celery seeds, and turmeric in a saucepan over medium heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. Rinse and drain cucumber mixture and place in a bowl (or divide among jars). Pour vinegar mixture over cucumbers; let cool completely. Refrigerate, covered, up to 3 weeks before serving.
Blistered Padrón Peppers with Sea Salt
If you spot these bright-green peppers at the market, grab them—they’re slightly less sweet than green bell peppers but take on a delicious, smoky flavor when charred in an iron skillet or under the broiler. But be forewarned: While most are mild, one or two in every ten packs a mouthful of fiery flavor.
SERVES 4
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 pound Padrón peppers
Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon
Heat oil in a large, heavy skillet (preferably cast iron) over medium high. Cook peppers in a single layer, turning, until blistered, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a platter, sprinkle with sea salt, and serve.
Whole Baked Trout with Cherry Tomatoes and Potatoes
Here’s a delicious way to use the last of the season’s crop of cherry tomatoes (or those available any time of year): Roast them, along with Yukon Gold potatoes, until they are softened and juicy, and at the height of sweetness. Then continue to cook them topped with two whole trout; the juices from the fish will flavor the vegetables, which in turn contribute moistness to the fish. It’s a win-win proposition.
SERVES 4
2 Yukon Gold potatoes, scrubbed and thinly sliced
1 garlic clove, smashed
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano leaves
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon olive oil
12 ounces cherry tomatoes, broken into smaller clusters if on the vine
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
2 whole trout (about 9 ounces each), scaled, gutted, and cleaned
8 thin lemon slices (from 1 lemon)
1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Toss together potatoes, garlic, oregano, and 1 tablespoon oil in a bowl, and season with salt and pepper. Arrange potatoes in a 9-by-13-inch baking dish, overlapping them; top with tomatoes.
2. Roast until tomatoes are juicy and potatoes are tender, about 25 minutes. Remove from oven.
3. Rub fish with remaining teaspoon oil, dividing evenly. Season inside and outside of fish with salt; stuff with lemon slices. Arrange fish on top of potatoes, shifting tomatoes alongside. Roast until fish are opaque throughout and flake with a fork, about 20 minutes. Serve immediately.
Zucchini “Pasta” Primavera
Cut into thin strips and briefly cooked, zucchini takes on a texture that mimics al dente pasta. Here, the gluten-free “noodles” are tossed with a sauce of halved cherry tomatoes, capers, and garlic that’s sautéed for all of one minute. Each plate is garnished with the flavorful components of pesto: fresh basil, toasted pine nuts, and grated Parmesan.
SERVES 4
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved
2 tablespoons capers, preferably salt-packed, rinsed and drained
1 garlic clove, thinly sliced
Pinch of red-pepper flakes
1 large zucchini, cut lengthwise into thin strands
Pine nuts, toasted, for serving
Finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for serving
Fresh basil leaves, for serving
1. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium high. Add tomatoes, capers, garlic, and red-pepper flakes and cook, stirring frequently, until heated through, about 1 minute. Add zucchini and cook, tossing, until just tender, 1 to 2 minutes.
2. Serve immediately, topped with toasted pine nuts, grated cheese, and basil.
TIP
Use a mandoline, julienne peeler, or sharp knife—or ideally, a spiral slicer—to make the strands of zucchini.
Roasted Bell Peppers
Bell peppers undergo a particularly drastic transformation when roasted: The once-crisp flesh becomes wonderfully tender, and the skins blister and loosen for easy peeling. Serve these dressed ones as a salad, or in sandwiches, pasta dishes, and antipasti.
SERVES 4
4 red bell peppers
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon capers, preferably salt-packed, rinsed and drained
¼ cup pitted Kalamata olives
½ teaspoon red-wine vinegar
Lemon peel, cut into fine julienne
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
Fresh basil leaves, for serving
1. Heat broiler with rack in top position. Place bell peppers on a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet. Broil, turning occasionally, until charred on all sides and tender, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and let steam 10 minutes. Rub with paper towels to remove skin. Quarter each pepper lengthwise and remove ribs and seeds.
2. Arrange peppers on a serving platter, drizzle with oil, and top with capers, olives, vinegar, and lemon strips. Season with salt and pepper, sprinkle with basil, and serve.
TIP
An alternative to broiling peppers is to char them over an open flame (on the stove or a grill) until skin is blistered and charred.
Tomatillos have a tart, citrusy flavor all their own. They’re also meatier (less watery) than their distant relative, the tomato. You’ll find tomatillos, raw and cooked, in many Mexican dishes, most commonly in the form of salsa. Charring the fruit (and garlic) makes this salsa distinctively smoky; adding chipotles also helps.
SERVES 4
6 tomatillos, husked, rinsed, and quartered
3 garlic cloves (do not peel)
4 canned chipotle chiles in adobo sauce, coarsely chopped
¼ teaspoon sugar
Coarse salt
Cilantro leaves, for serving
Tortilla chips, for serving
1. Working in two batches if needed, cook tomatillos and garlic in a large skillet (preferably cast iron) over medium-high heat, turning occasionally, until charred on all sides, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer to a plate, and let cool slightly. Then peel garlic, and finely chop tomatillos and garlic.
2. Mix tomatillos, garlic, chipotles, and sugar in a bowl, season with salt, and top with cilantro. Serve with tortilla chips.
The large, thick-fleshed poblano chile has a nice amount of heat, but not too much, and an earthy flavor; it also is the right size for stuffing, as in Mexican chiles rellenos.
SERVES 6
¼cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 pounds ground chicken
1 white onion, chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
1¾ pounds plum tomatoes, seeded and diced
2 dried bay leaves
½ cup raisins
½ cup green olives, chopped
2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and drained
½ cup finely chopped cilantro, plus small sprigs for serving
½ cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
¼ cup finely chopped mint
½ cup slivered almonds
Coarse salt
12 fresh poblano chiles
Mexican crema or sour cream, for serving
Lime wedges, for serving
1. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium high until almost smoking. Add chicken; cook, stirring frequently, until lightly browned and cooked through, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a bowl.
2. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in same skillet over medium high. Cook onion, stirring occasionally, until translucent, 2 minutes. Add garlic; cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add tomatoes and bay leaves, and reduce heat to medium low; simmer until tomatoes are soft, 15 minutes.
3. Stir in raisins, olives, and capers; cook 3 minutes. Add chicken; cook 5 minutes. Stir in chopped herbs and almonds, and season with salt. Let cool. (Filling may be refrigerated up to 1 day in an airtight container. Before using, bring to room temperature; discard bay leaves.)
4. Preheat oven to 350°F. Roast poblanos directly over the flame of a gas-stove burner or under a broiler, turning often with tongs, until charred on all sides. Place in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let stand for 15 minutes. When cool enough to handle, rub with a paper towel to remove skins, being careful not to tear flesh. Cut a slit down the side of each poblano from stem to tip. Remove seeds, leaving stem intact.
5. Spoon filling into each chile, dividing evenly; arrange in a baking dish. Bake until heated through, 15 minutes. Serve immediately with crema, cilantro sprigs, and lime wedges.
Cucumber, Mango, and Shrimp Escabèche
Put the cooling qualities of cucumber to work in a Spanish escabèche. It requires minimal cooking—just a minute or two to poach the shrimp; the rest is a matter of letting the acidic lime juice infuse the seafood with flavor.
SERVES 4
1 pound shell-on large shrimp (16 to 20 count)
½ cup plus 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice (from 12 limes)
½ English cucumber, cut into thin half-moons
⅔ cup chopped peeled mango
½ cup chopped red onion
1 jalapeño chile, finely chopped
¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, plus more for serving
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1. Prepare an ice-water bath. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Reduce heat to medium; poach shrimp until just opaque throughout, 1½ to 2 minutes. Transfer shrimp to ice bath and let cool completely.
2. Drain shrimp; peel, devein, and slice in half. Toss shrimp with ½ cup lime juice in a nonreactive dish. Refrigerate, covered, 2 hours, stirring halfway through; drain.
3. Toss together shrimp, cucumber, mango, onion, jalapeño, cilantro, 2 tablespoons lime juice, ¾ teaspoon salt, and a pinch of pepper. Refrigerate, 30 minutes. Stir in remaining tablespoon lime juice, top with cilantro sprigs, and serve.
Chilled Melon, Cucumber, and Mint Soup
The high water content and refreshing flavor of cucumbers are just right for making chilled soups. This soup combines seedless cucumbers, honeydew melon, lime juice, and fresh mint—all in lovely shades of green. More mint is sprinkled on top, and Greek yogurt is smeared alongside.
SERVES 8
2 English cucumbers
½ honeydew melon, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch chunks (8 cups)
½ to ⅔ cup fresh lime juice (from 10 to 12 limes), plus wedges for serving
1 cup lightly packed fresh mint leaves, plus more for serving
2 cups crushed ice
Coarse salt
2 cups plain Greek yogurt
Extra-virgin olive oil
1. Peel, halve, and seed cucumbers, then coarsely chop. (You should have about 4½ cups.) Working in batches, purée cucumbers, melon, ½ cup lime juice, the mint, and ice in a food processor or blender. Season with salt and more lime juice. Transfer soup to a bowl, cover, and refrigerate until ready to serve, up to 2 hours.
2. Spoon ¼ cup yogurt into each bowl, smearing up sides. Spoon chilled soup into bowls, drizzle with oil, and top with mint. Serve with lime wedges.
Stuffed Tomatoes with Mozzarella
Tomatoes, zucchini, and bell peppers are perfect for stuffing. Once the flesh and seeds have been scooped out, the remaining shells are firm enough to hold their shape as they cook. Here, tomatoes are filled with sautéed corn and greens (any of the ones in the Greens chapter will do), toasted bread pieces, and mozzarella, which melts and turns deliciously golden under the broiler.
SERVES 4
2 slices rustic bread, torn into small pieces (about ¾ cup)
4 ripe medium tomatoes, halved horizontally
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Pinch of red-pepper flakes
½ shallot, thinly sliced
1 cup corn kernels (from 1 ear)
3 cups packed chopped greens, such as Swiss chard or beet greens
3 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese, sliced
1. Heat broiler with rack 8 inches from heat source. Toast bread on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing once, until crisp, about 2 minutes.
2. Scoop out seeds and flesh from each tomato into a bowl; reserve. Arrange tomato halves in a broiler-safe baking dish; season with salt and pepper.
3. In a large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium. Add red-pepper flakes and shallot; cook, stirring frequently, until just tender, about 2 minutes. Increase heat to high; add reserved tomato flesh and juice. Cook, stirring, until reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Add corn and greens; cook, stirring, until vegetables are tender, about 2 minutes. Season with salt.
4. Fill tomato halves with vegetable mixture, dividing evenly, then sprinkle each half with toasted bread, drizzle with remaining tablespoon oil, and top with mozzarella. Broil until cheese is bubbly and golden in spots, about 2 minutes. Serve immediately.
SERVES 6 TO 8
¼ cup plus ¾ teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1 celery stalk
2 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
Sea salt or coarse salt
1 wild salmon fillet (about 1 pound and 1 inch thick), skin on
1 ripe but firm avocado, halved, pitted, and peeled
1 tablespoon wasabi powder, mixed with 1 tablespoon lukewarm water
1 whole-grain baguette
Radish or sunflower sprouts
1. Fill a saucepan wide enough to hold salmon with 2½ inches cold water. Stir in ¼ cup lemon juice, the celery, parsley, and 2 teaspoons salt. Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Add salmon, skin side down. Cover; simmer until just cooked through, 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer to a plate, and let cool 20 minutes. Discard poaching liquid. Flake salmon into large pieces.
2. Pulse avocado, wasabi, and remaining ¾ teaspoon lemon juice until smooth in a food processor; season with salt. Transfer to a bowl, and cover tightly with plastic wrap, pressing directly onto surface. Refrigerate up to 30 minutes.
3. Preheat oven to 425°F. Cut baguette in half, and cut each half lengthwise into three ½-inch-thick slices. Arrange, flat side down, in a single layer on a baking sheet. Toast in oven until lightly golden, about 7 minutes. Let cool 10 minutes. Spread each slice with about 2 tablespoons avocado-wasabi mixture, and top with salmon and sprouts.
Guacamole is endlessly adaptable—and universally adored. Toasted pistachios may not be the most obvious choice, but they supply extra richness and crunch to the simple blend of avocado, fresh lime juice, and salt. Just add corn chips.
SERVES 8
1 cup shelled pistachios
6 ripe avocados, halved, pitted, and peeled
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice (from 2 to 3 limes)
Coarse salt
Tortilla chips, for serving
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Toast pistachios on a rimmed baking sheet until golden and fragrant, stirring once or twice, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer to a plate and let cool completely. Coarsely chop.
2. In a bowl, mash avocados and lime juice together with a fork. Fold in all but 3 tablespoons chopped pistachios; season with salt. Top with remaining pistachios and serve immediately with tortilla chips.
The filling for these portable tarts packs an abundance of flavor: Sliced tomatoes are roasted until their flavors are concentrated and the tomatoes have shed much of their moisture (so the tarts won’t get soggy). This is a great way to prepare tomatoes even if you don’t make the tarts; store them in an airtight container in the refrigerator, covered in a slick of olive oil, then bring to room temperature and serve on crostini, burgers, or pasta.
MAKES 12
FOR THE DOUGH
2½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
1 teaspoon coarse salt
1 cup (2 sticks) cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
¼ to ½ cup ice water
FOR THE FILLING
2½ pounds tomatoes, cored and sliced ¼ inch thick crosswise
1 medium onion, quartered lengthwise and thinly sliced crosswise
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh oregano, plus small sprigs for serving (optional)
⅓ cup chopped pitted oil-cured black olives
4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (¾ cup)
1 large egg yolk, lightly beaten with 1 tablespoon water, for egg wash
1. Make the dough: Pulse together flour and salt in a food processor until combined. Add butter, and process until mixture resembles coarse meal, about 10 seconds. With machine running, add just enough ice water in a slow, steady stream until dough just comes together (no longer than 30 seconds). Divide dough in half, shape each piece into a square, and wrap in plastic. Refrigerate at least 1 hour or up to 2 days (or freeze up to 1 month; thaw overnight in refrigerator before using).
2. Roll out dough on a lightly floured surface to ⅛ inch thick. Using a paring knife, cut out twelve 4½-inch squares, and fit into cups of a standard muffin tin, leaving an overhang. Chill until firm, about 30 minutes.
3. Make the filling: Preheat oven to 400°F. Divide tomato and onion slices between two rimmed baking sheets. Drizzle with oil, season with salt and pepper, and roast, rotating sheets halfway through, until tomatoes begin to shrivel and onion slices are golden, about 30 minutes. Let cool on sheets, then transfer to a bowl.
4. Preheat oven or lower temperature to 375°F. Divide half the chopped oregano, olives, and feta among the pastry shells. Top with tomato-onion mixture, dividing evenly. Sprinkle with remaining oregano, olives, and feta. Fold corners of dough toward centers. Brush with egg wash.
5. Bake pies until bubbling and top crusts are golden, 50 to 60 minutes. Let cool completely in tin on a wire rack before serving, with oregano sprigs tucked into pies, if desired.
Butternut Squash and Taleggio Pizza
Butternut squash makes a delicious topping for “white” pizza, particularly when combined with nutty Taleggio and sharp Parmigiano-Reggiano cheeses (and little else).
MAKES 2 PIES
FOR THE DOUGH
¼ teaspoon sugar
1 envelope (¼ ounce) active dry yeast
1 cup warm water (about 110°F)
2¾ cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
1 teaspoon coarse salt
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for bowl
Fine cornmeal, for dusting
FOR THE TOPPINGS
3 pounds butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into ½-inch dice
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1½ pounds Taleggio cheese
¼ cup fresh thyme leaves
½ cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1. In a small bowl, sprinkle sugar and yeast over the warm water; stir with a fork until yeast and sugar dissolve. Let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes.
2. In a food processor, pulse together flour and salt. Add yeast mixture and oil; pulse until mixture comes together but is still slightly tacky. (Dough should pull away cleanly from your fingers after it’s squeezed.) Turn out dough onto a lightly floured work surface; knead four or five times, to form a smooth ball. Place in a lightly oiled bowl, smooth side up. Cover with plastic wrap; let rise in a warm place until doubled, about 40 minutes. Punch down dough. Fold dough back onto itself four or five times, then turn smooth side up. Replace plastic; let dough rise again in a warm place until doubled in bulk, 30 to 40 minutes.
3. Punch dough down again; turn out onto a lightly floured work surface. Using a bench scraper or knife, divide dough into two pieces. Knead each piece four or five times, then form a smooth ball. Return one ball to oiled bowl; cover with plastic wrap. Pat remaining ball into a flattened disk; cover with plastic wrap, and let rest 5 minutes. Sprinkle a large wooden peel with cornmeal. Using your hands or a rolling pin, stretch or press dough into desired shape, working from center outward in all directions. Transfer to prepared peel.
4. Meanwhile, make toppings: Preheat oven to 450°F with a rack in lowest position and a pizza stone on rack. Toss squash with 2 tablespoons oil, and season with salt and pepper. Spread evenly on a rimmed baking sheet, and roast, tossing once or twice, until tender, about 12 minutes. Let cool.
5. Arrange half of squash over one piece of dough, leaving a 1-inch border. Dot with half of Taleggio, squeezing it from rind into 1-inch pieces as you go. Sprinkle with half of thyme, and drizzle with 2 tablespoons oil. Top with half of Parmesan.
6. Slide pizza onto heated baking stone. Bake until crust is golden brown and cheese is melted, 15 to 18 minutes. Meanwhile, repeat to make second pizza with remaining ingredients; bake when first pizza is removed from oven.
Roasted Acorn Squash, Three Ways
The beauty of roasted acorn squash, as opposed to butternut or other tough-skinned varieties, is that you can eat the skin (which contains much of the vegetable’s nutrients, including fiber and antioxidants). It also takes well to a variety of flavors.
1
WITH SESAME SEEDS
AND CUMIN
3 tablespoons sesame seeds
1½ teaspoons cumin seeds
2 small acorn squashes, halved, seeded, and cut into 1-inch wedges
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon ground coriander
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Toast sesame seeds in a skillet over medium-high, shaking pan frequently, until golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Add cumin seeds and toast until fragrant, 30 seconds. Transfer seeds to a bowl; let cool.
2. Toss squashes with oil and coriander, and season with salt and pepper on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast in a single layer 10 minutes. Add seeds and toss to coat, then flip slices. Roast until squashes are tender and golden brown, about 15 minutes more; serve.
2
WITH BACON
AND MAPLE
2 small acorn squashes, halved, seeded, and cut into 1-inch wedges
⅓ cup pure maple syrup
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
Coarse salt
3 thick slices bacon, cut crosswise into ¼-inch pieces
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Toss squashes with maple syrup, oil, and cayenne and season with salt on a rimmed baking sheet.
2. Roast in a single layer 10 minutes. Add bacon, then flip squashes to coat. Roast, flipping once more halfway through, until tender and golden brown, about 20 minutes more; serve.
3
WITH ORANGE
AND SAGE
2 small acorn squashes, halved, seeded, and cut into 1-inch wedges
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse salt
2 tablespoons packed thinly sliced fresh sage or whole small sage leaves
⅔ cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (1½ ounces)
5 strips orange peel, cut into fine julienne (¼ cup)
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Toss squashes with oil and season with salt on a rimmed baking sheet.
2. Roast in a single layer 10 minutes. Add sage, cheese, and orange and toss to coat, then flip slices. Roast until squashes are tender and golden brown, about 15 minutes more; serve.
Butternut Squash and Kale Hash
In this skillet supper, butternut squash is roasted with carrots, then mixed with kale and roasted until that’s tender. Finally, the vegetables are topped with eggs, which bake until set. The key is to cook the eggs just until the whites are set but the yolks are still runny, so they form a “sauce” that brings the whole dish together in the most delicious manner.
SERVES 4
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
½ cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
½ medium butternut squash or 1 acorn squash, halved, seeded, peeled, and cut into ½-inch pieces (3½ cups)
10 ounces carrots, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces (1½ cups)
1 small bunch kale, stems trimmed and leaves coarsely chopped (2 cups packed)
4 large eggs
1. Preheat oven to 425°F. In a small bowl, whisk together ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons oil, the lemon juice, and cilantro, then season with salt and pepper.
2. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a large straight-sided ovenproof skillet (preferably cast iron) over medium high. Add onion and garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes.
3. Add squash and carrots, season with salt and pepper, and transfer to oven. Roast, stirring once, until golden and tender, 20 to 25 minutes.
4. Stir kale into squash mixture, along with ¼ cup cilantro mixture. Return to oven and bake until kale is wilted, about 8 minutes.
5. Make four wells in vegetables and crack an egg into each. Season eggs with salt. Return to oven and bake until whites are set but yolks are still runny, 4 to 6 minutes. Serve, drizzled with more cilantro dressing.
