Sweet corn is as democratic a vegetable as there is. It rewards those who prefer cheap-and-easy preparations with as lavish a show of flavor as those who fuss and fret over it. Boil it and slap it with butter and salt, and it becomes a substantial side dish or snack. But you can just as well dress it up for company by folding it into a savory pudding or transforming it into a luscious ice cream for dessert.
Nor does corn’s versatility end with the summertime kitchen. We also eat this so-called vegetable as a grain—think cornmeal and corn flour—in breads, tortillas, grits, polenta, and muffins. Similarly, it turns up in cornstarch, corn syrup, corn oil, and whiskey. And, of course, there are varieties grown specifically for making popcorn.
So perhaps it should come as no surprise to learn that this multifaceted vegetable/grain is actually neither, but instead is a fruit. In fact, each little kernel is an individual fruit surrounding a fairly large seed. When young, these relatively tough-skinned little fruits fill up with sugars and juices, as well as a smooth milky substance that allows them to give way with a pop of sweet creamy flavor when you bite into them, no matter how they’re prepared.
SEASONALITY
Sweet corn is a summer crop, plain and simple. Ears sold at other times of year have generally been hybridized, genetically modified, traveled long distances—or all three. In the off-season, opt for frozen corn—it’s a decent alternative in any recipe, and better than corn from a can.
BUYING
With corn, the familiar exhortation to buy from farmstands is especially worth heeding. That’s not just because good sweet corn should travel minimal time and distance from where it was picked, but also because corn hides its age. Even if you peel back the husk (or the purveyor does), you can’t easily see whether the sugars inside each kernel have turned to starch. A better test for freshness is to look at the husk itself (it should look green and cling to the ear), examine the stem end (fresh and pale), and the silks at the tip (glossy where they emerge from the husk and never dried out or brown). Many shoppers shun ears with immature kernels at the tips, but you needn’t: The rest of the ear will be especially young, tender, and sweet.
NOTABLE VARIETIES
Sweeter varieties include Breeder’s Choice, Kandy Korn, Early Xtra Sweet, Sweetie, and Super-Sweet Jubliee. There are many bicolor (white and yellow) varieties, including Butter & Sugar and Concord; white corn, which is very sweet and tender, includes Silver Queen, Boone County White Corn, and How Sweet It Is. Peruvian purple corn (also called blue corn), Black Aztec Corn, Bloody Butcher Corn, and Calico Corn (multicolored cobs) are all colorful varieties that are cultivated for eating as well as drying for decorations.
STORING
The trick with storing fresh ears of corn is: Don’t—at least not for long. Place ears in a plastic or paper bag in the crisper drawer of your refrigerator for no more than a day or so. If you want to save fresh corn for later, husk and remove the silks, slice kernels off the cob, then freeze in a heavy-duty sealable bag. To freeze cooked corn, blanch shucked ears in a pot of boiling water for 4 minutes, then drain and pat dry. When cool enough to handle, shave off kernels and freeze in sealable plastic bags (squeeze out excess air before sealing), up to 6 months or longer.
PREPPING
If you plan to boil corn, remove the husks and silks immediately prior. If you want to grill it, many experts will tell you to peel back the husk and remove the silks first, then wrap the husk back around the ear, but that’s quite unnecessary: the silks—so irritating to pick away when raw—slip right off once the ear is grilled (or oven roasted). To remove the kernels from the cob, stand the cob on its broader end on a cutting board, hold the tip with one hand, and using a sharp knife, slice downward toward the base of the kernels, rotating the cob as you go. Then flip the knife around and use the back edge to scrape the milk from the cob, if desired.
Sweet corn is heavenly when it’s lightly boiled or steamed. (Which method you prefer depends largely on what you grew up doing, as the results are very similar. But advocates of steaming say this method preserves the flavor better.) You can also throw the corn on a hot grill, husk and all. The cooking times will depend on the freshness: To test, pop a raw kernel in your mouth—the fresh ones will pop between your teeth, releasing a sweet, fragrant milk; older ones will have a slight popcorn mealiness that will disappear during cooking. Raw kernels can be sautéed in butter or oil or pan-roasted in a dry skillet (to give them a nice smoky char), and then added to grain and vegetable dishes, or mixed into soups. Grilled kernels can also be cut from the cob and tossed into salads and salsas.
HOW TO BOIL
Shuck ears and cook in a large pot of salted boiling water until kernels are knife-tender, 2 to 6 minutes depending on freshness. Serve with softened butter and chopped fresh herbs (or combined in a compound butter).
HOW TO STEAM
Shuck ears and place, stem ends down, in a pot (or in a pasta insert set in pot) filled with 2 inches of boiling water. Cover and steam until kernels are knife-tender, 2 to 6 minutes.
HOW TO SAUTÉ
Shuck ears and slice off kernels. Melt butter in a large skillet. Add corn, season with salt and pepper, and cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until tender and golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes.
HOW TO PAN-ROAST
Heat a cast-iron skillet over medium high. Cook corn kernels in a dry skillet, stirring occasionally, until browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. This gives the kernels a nice smokiness (similar to grilling).
HOW TO ROAST
Roast unshucked corn directly on the racks of a 400°F oven for 30 minutes. The husks will slip right off—silks and all—and the kernels will be perfectly tender and great for slicing into salads, salsas, and pastas, or, of course, eating straight off the cob.
FLAVOR PAIRINGS
Butter and salt are the classics, and an ear of good summer corn needs nothing more. Recipes might underscore corn’s sweet creamy side, pairing it with cheese, cream, and potatoes, or contrast it with bright, hot or acidic flavors, such as tomatoes, peppers, chiles, and lime—which, like corn, originated in Central America, as did black beans, another natural partner. As for herbs, corn likes them all but has a special affinity for basil, lemongrass, cilantro, chives, and thyme.
Grilled Corn, with Three Toppings
Cornmeal Shortcakes with Corn Ice Cream and Blueberry Compote
Grilled Corn, with Three Toppings
Aside from boiling or steaming, a favorite way to enjoy corn is to grill it, then smother it with flavorful toppings. As long as you’re grilling the rest of the meal, you may as well grill the corn, too. We took inspiration from wildly popular Mexican grilled corn to come up with three topping combinations: sesame, ginger, and jalapeño; chili powder and fresh lime juice; and crisped bacon, oregano, and mayonnaise.
Safflower oil, for grill
4 ears corn, shucked
Topping of choice (see below)
Heat a grill or grill pan over medium high. Brush hot grates with oil. Grill corn, turning occasionally with tongs, until kernels are just tender when pressed and charred in spots, about 20 minutes. Transfer corn to a platter; while still warm, top as desired.
1
SESAME, GINGER,
AND JALAPEÑO
Combine 2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil, ½ teaspoon finely grated peeled fresh ginger, ½ teaspoon minced seeded jalapeño chile, and 2 teaspoons chopped fresh cilantro; season with salt and pepper. Transfer grilled corn to a platter. Dividing evenly, spread mixture over grilled cobs, sprinkle with 2 teaspoons sesame seeds, and serve.
2
CHILI POWDER
AND LIME
Dividing evenly, squeeze ½ lime over corn, then sprinkle with 1 teaspoon chili powder and 1¼ teaspoons salt, and serve.
3
BACON, MAYONNAISE,
AND OREGANO
Cook 4 slices bacon in a skillet over medium heat, turning occasionally, until crisp and fat has been rendered, about 8 minutes. Dividing evenly, spread ½ cup mayonnaise over corn, then sprinkle with crumbled bacon, fresh oregano leaves, and finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Season with salt and pepper and serve.
TIP
If you leave them in their husks (with the silks removed), the corn will essentially steam; we shuck the ears and place them directly on the hot grates, and they take on that characteristic smoky flavor, as well as gain a few charred spots.
Here’s a fantastic brunch casserole that is also a great showcase for corn-off-the-cob. Chilaquiles was created as a way to use leftovers (tortillas, chicken, corn, and such), and you can adapt this recipe according to what’s in your refrigerator. The usual Mexican accompaniments are served alongside: cilantro, avocado, tomatoes, and more crumbled corn chips.
SERVES 6
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
6 scallions (white and pale-green parts only), finely chopped (about ¼ cup)
½ jalapeño chile, minced (remove ribs and seeds for less heat)
2½ cups corn kernels (from 3 to 4 ears)
Coarse salt
12 large eggs
3 cups broken tortilla chips, plus whole chips for serving
½ cup crumbled or grated cotija or queso fresco cheese
Cilantro sprigs, sliced avocado, and cherry tomatoes, for serving
1. Heat broiler with rack in top third. Melt butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Cook scallions and chile, stirring constantly, 1 minute. Add corn, season with salt, and cook, stirring, 1 minute.
2. Whisk together eggs in a large bowl and stir in broken chips. Add to skillet and cook, stirring, until bottom starts to set but is still wet, about 1 minute. Stir and transfer to a broilerproof 8-by-11½-inch baking dish; broil until eggs are set, about 2 minutes. Scatter cheese on top and let stand 10 minutes before serving with cilantro sprigs, whole chips (tuck some into the top), avocado, and tomatoes.
TIP
If you can’t find cotija or queso fresco, you can substitute feta, Parmesan, or ricotta salata.
We’re fond of corn soup, as demonstrated by the many recipes we’ve published over the years. This creamy version is adapted from food writer and cookbook author Eugenia Bone; it was featured in a magazine story about preserving summer produce.
SERVES 4
9 ears corn, shucked
1 dried bay leaf
1 medium onion, halved, plus 1½ cups chopped onion
5 thyme sprigs
2 tablespoons light vegetable oil, such as grapeseed
2 garlic cloves, minced
1½ cups half-and-half
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
4 slices bacon, cooked and chopped, for serving
Sliced scallion, for serving
1. Slice kernels from 3 ears corn; set aside. In a large pot, bring remaining 6 ears of corn, the bay leaf, halved onion, thyme, and enough water to cover (about 2 quarts) to a boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer 30 minutes. Strain mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl (you should have 1 quart corn broth; if not, add water).
2. Wipe pot clean. Heat oil in a pot over medium. Cook chopped onion and garlic, stirring frequently, until translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in reserved corn kernels; cook 2 minutes. Add corn broth; simmer until reduced by half. Add half-and-half, and return just to a simmer. Purée half the soup in a blender until smooth. (For safety, remove cap from hole in lid; cover with a dish towel to prevent spattering.) Return to pot, warm through, and season with salt and pepper. Serve topped with bacon, scallion, and pepper.
This pudding gets a kick from the green chiles harvested in New Mexico’s Hatch Valley, along the Rio Grande, and richness from Monterey Jack running through the custard base.
SERVES 8
4 cups corn kernels (from 6 ears)
1 teaspoon coarse salt
3 scallions, thinly sliced
1 can (14 ounces) Hatch green chiles, diced
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups grated Monterey Jack cheese (6 ounces)
5 large eggs, room temperature
⅔ cup heavy cream
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Purée 3 cups corn kernels in a food processor. Transfer to a large bowl, and stir in remaining cup of corn, the salt, scallions, chiles, flour, and ⅓ cup cheese. In a separate bowl, whisk together eggs and cream just until combined. Stir into corn mixture.
2. Place butter in an 8-inch square baking dish, and heat in oven until butter is melted, about 10 minutes. Remove from oven; pour batter into dish, and sprinkle top with remaining 1⅔ cups cheese. Place a baking sheet on lower rack to catch any drips. Return baking dish to oven and bake until puffed and bubbling and cheese is golden brown, 45 to 50 minutes. Let cool 30 minutes before serving.
Cornmeal Shortcakes with Corn Ice Cream and Blueberry Compote
SERVES 10
FOR THE ICE CREAM
4 ears corn, shucked
2 cups whole milk
2 cups heavy cream
¾ cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon coarse salt
9 large egg yolks
FOR THE SHORTCAKES (MAKES 10)
1¼ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
1 cup cake flour (not self-rising)
¾ cup fine cornmeal
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
1¼ teaspoons coarse salt
1 cup (2 sticks) cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1½ cups buttermilk
Heavy cream, for brushing
Coarse sanding sugar, for sprinkling
FOR THE BLUEBERRY COMPOTE
1½ cups blueberries (6 ounces)
½ cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1. Make the ice cream: Slice kernels from cobs; transfer to a saucepan. Break cobs in half; add to saucepan. Stir in milk, cream, ½ cup granulated sugar, and the salt. Bring to a boil. Let cool; discard cobs. Working in batches, purée corn mixture in a blender until smooth. (For safety, remove cap from hole in lid, and cover with a dish towel to prevent spattering.) Return mixture to saucepan, and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Remove from heat.
2. Meanwhile, prepare an ice-water bath. Whisk together egg yolks and remaining ¼ cup granulated sugar in a bowl. Whisk 1 cup corn mixture into yolks; return to saucepan with custard. Cook over medium low, whisking, until custard thickens and coats back of a spoon, about 10 minutes.
3. Strain custard through a sieve into a bowl, pressing on solids; discard solids. Transfer bowl to ice bath, and stir until chilled. Refrigerate at least 1 hour or up to 1 day. Freeze in an ice cream maker. Transfer to an airtight container, and freeze until firm, at least 3 hours or up to 3 months.
4. Make the shortcakes: Preheat oven to 400°F. Sift together flours, cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda, granulated sugar, and salt twice into a bowl. Cut in butter using a pastry blender until small clumps form. Make a well in the center, and pour in buttermilk. Stir until just combined (do not overmix). Turn out dough onto a generously floured surface, and fold over onto itself three or four times. Roll out dough to a 1-inch thickness. Cut out rounds using a 3-inch biscuit cutter; transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet. Gather scraps and repeat once. Brush shortcakes with heavy cream, and sprinkle with sanding sugar. Bake until golden brown, 18 to 20 minutes. Cool completely on a wire rack.
5. Make the compote: Bring 1 cup blueberries, sugar, the water, and lemon juice to a simmer in a saucepan over medium heat. Cook until berries burst, about 5 minutes. Stir in remaining ½ cup blueberries. Let cool completely.
6. To serve, split shortcakes in half and sandwich each with blueberry compote and ice cream.