As editor of Catnip, I receive questions every week from readers puzzled or panicked by their cats’ bathroom behavior. This is serious stuff for people and literally life-or-death for far too many cats. The number one behavioral reason cats are booted out of homes and discarded at animal shelters is because of inappropriate elimination.
Owners understandably become tired of cleaning up messes on their carpets, floors, and even their beds. Or one spouse will deliver an ultimatum: either persuade the cat to use the litter box or get rid of the cat.
There are many reasons why some cats bypass the litter box and go elsewhere. The true cause may be a medical condition or stress-induced changes in the home routine or a dislike of the available “facilities.” Either way, your cat is conveying that something is wrong. It is up to you to act like a pet detective and track down clues.
In this section, I share some scenarios with the hope that my answers enable you and your cat to enjoy many happy and incident-free years together in a home that always smells like a beautiful spring day.
Q We’re planning to adopt our first kitten soon. I thought kittens knew instinctively how to use a litter box from day one, but my friends with young cats say that isn’t always the case. If the kitten we bring home needs help learning how to use the litter box, what’s the best way to train her?
A I bet you never imagined that someday you would add “litter box tutor” to your list of accomplishments. It may not be as impressive as brain surgeon or world’s best mom, but for your young kitten, a little litter box guidance will go a long way in ensuring she practices a lifetime of good bathroom habits.
True, most kittens take to litter like, well, grown cats take to catnip. Cats instinctively bury their feces and cover up urine deposits, a behavior that dates back thousands of years to when wild cats needed to avoid detection by possible predators. That’s why outdoor cats choose the garden or sandbox for toileting, much to the dismay of gardeners and parents.
Most kittens learn the basic ABCs of litter box lessons from their mothers by about four weeks of age. It’s a case of kittens see, kittens do, in their quest to mimic the actions of their wise moms. Kittens who are orphaned or weaned away from their mothers at a very early age may be clueless about litter box etiquette. Or they may just be slow learners.
The National Council on Pet Population Study and Policy offers a comprehensive look at why cats are relinquished to animal shelters. When looking strictly at behavioral reasons, house soiling was the top reason, coming in at 43.2 percent. Overall, this council reports the following top reasons for cats being surrendered to shelters:
Human lifestyle (too many cats in home, allergies, personal problems)
Housing issues (moving, landlord issues, inadequate facilities)
Behavioral problems (house soiling, issues with other pets)
Here are some tips to help your new kitten ace her litter lessons and get off on the right paw:
Purchase a small litter box with low sides (no higher than three inches) so your short-legged kitten can easily climb in and out. Large litter boxes with sides four inches or higher or the kind with hoods can be too intimidating for some small kittens.
Locate the litter box in a place in your house that is easy to access but not in a noisy, high-traffic area like the kitchen. Never place the litter box near the food and water bowls. Cats are clean creatures and abhor the notion of having their chow next to their bathroom. If you live in a multilevel house, locate a litter box on each level.
When you bring home your new kitten, escort her to the litter box (filled with about two inches of litter) and place her in the box. Gently move her front paws through the litter to let her feel the texture. Use your index finger to paw through the clean litter. Then let her explore the litter box and jump out on her own.
During the first few days of her arrival, place her in the litter box when she first wakes up, after she eats, after a play session, and after she wakes from a catnap.
After placing her in the litter box, quietly step back and leave her be. Unlike puppies who love to hear their owner sing out “Good potty!” in a happy voice, most felines prefer privacy and don’t wish for you to bring out the band or applaud when they accomplish their mission. Be more subdued with your kitten.
Be sure to scoop out the deposits daily to keep the litter box clean.
Please practice the Two P’s of Potty Training: Patience and Punishment-Free. It may take your youngster just a few trips to the litter box to get the hang of things or it may take a few weeks. Resist the temptation to scold or yell or squirt her with a water bottle, because the punishment approach usually backfires. Your kitten may become so frightened that she starts to avoid the litter box and hunts for less scary places like under your bed or in your closet.
If you notice any signs of diarrhea or if you see your kitten straining or hear her crying when using the litter box, please take her to your veterinarian to be examined for a possible medical problem such as a urinary tract infection or intestinal parasites. Good luck!
Q Help! I am confused by all the types of litter available at the store. Litter can be made of clay, crumbled corn, and even recycled newspapers. There are regular types, clumping types, and some that are flushable. Some litter is scented and some is not. And it can be pricey. What’s the best kind to buy?
A You’re right. Litter is not cheap, and it is not lightweight. Sharing a home with three cats tugs on my wallet and taxes my forearm muscles each time I lug home another big bag of the stuff.
Litter has evolved in the same commercial manner as coffee. Remember the days when your choices in coffee were either black or with cream and sugar? Now, instead of ordering a plain cup of Joe, we need to know words like mocha, latte, and espresso.
Litter first hit store shelves more than 50 years ago. Credit a clever young guy named Edward Lowe who worked in his dad’s industrial absorbent company. One day, a friend complained to him about the smell and the mess of using dirt and ash in a box for her cat. Lowe suggested she sprinkle some of the company’s absorbent material in the box to quell the hold-your-nose odor. Voilà! The birth of litter.
Today, a litany of litter is available. Most brands claim to control odors, but that is arguable. Clay ranks as the most popular choice because it forms clumps that are easy to scoop. However, clay dust can cause respiratory issues in people and cats.
Environmentally minded companies have created litter made of pine and grain that absorbs well and is biodegradable. Grain contains a natural enzyme that tones down the powerful ammonia odor in cat urine. A new generation of litter choices include recycled paper, flushable green tea leaves, silica, and silica gel. Some litters come with ingredients such as baking soda, perfumes, or citrus that are touted to oust odors.
To help you narrow your choices, keep in mind that a feline’s nose is at least 100 times more sensitive than a person’s nose. In addition, cats are not big fans of citrus or perfume smells. What your nose may detect as a light, welcoming hint of citrus can overpower a “scent-sitive” cat and might even evoke a litter box boycott. This also applies to deodorizing products that stick on walls or litter boxes. Nix that idea and use air-purifying machines next to the boxes instead.
Size also matters to most cats. Put yourself in your cat’s paws for a moment. Would you rather walk on a fine-grained surface or a rocky road filled with large-size pellets? Your cat may be part of the feline majority and prefer the fine-grained clumping clay or could surprise you by liking the large pellet type.
In summary, put your cat’s needs and desires first. Test her preferences by buying small bags of a couple different types of litter. Put one in one litter box and the other in a second box and see which one your cat visits repeatedly. One sure sign that your cat does not like the choice of litter is if he eliminates right next to the box. He is showing you that he is trying to do the right thing, but he doesn’t want to come in contact with that type of litter.
WHEN PAT AND PETER BROUGHT TOM, their eight-month-old neutered male cat to my office, they informed me that he was acting lethargic, was not interested in food, and had started eating his litter.
On physical exam, Tom’s gums were white. A blood test revealed that Tom was dangerously anemic. Anemia can be categorized as “regenerative,” meaning that the bone marrow is trying to replenish the bloodstream with new red blood cells, or “nonregenerative,” meaning that the bone marrow is not replenishing red blood cells. I ordered several tests and, given the severity of his anemia, gave Tom a life-saving blood transfusion.
Over a few days, Tom’s blood tests revealed that he had a nonregenerative anemia. To figure out why, I obtained a sample of bone marrow and the analysis revealed a nearly total absence of the cells that normally give rise to red blood cells. The diagnosis: pure red cell aplasia (PRCA), a disorder seen occasionally in young cats ranging in age from eight months to three years. The cause is believed to be an immune system that has gone a little haywire and attacked the cat’s own bone marrow. Aggressive and prolonged treatment with drugs that suppress the immune system is necessary.
We administered the appropriate medications to Tom, and he responded beautifully. His red blood cell count rose steadily. In a few weeks, it was back to normal. We slowly began to taper the medication to the lowest dose that would control his anemia. Meanwhile, Pat and Peter switched from the usual clay litter to a wheat-based litter to dissuade the kitten from further attempts at eating the litter. It seemed to work. Tom showed no craving for the new litter, and he was active and playful.
But several weeks later, Tom suffered a relapse. His gums were pale and his red cell count had plummeted. His owners mentioned that they found Tom licking the silverware, something he had never done before. Fortunately, Tom responded dramatically to an increased dosage of his medications. Interestingly, as soon as Tom’s anemia was resolved, the silverware licking ceased.
Pica, the voluntary ingestion of nonedible materials, accounts for approximately 2.5 percent of abnormal behaviors in the domestic cat. Although the cause is unknown, mineral deficiencies or psychological disturbances are often blamed. Tom’s unusual ingestive behavior occurred when he was severely anemic. His odd behavior resolved when his anemia came under control. These clues told me that Tom’s craving for litter and silverware wasn’t simply a mental quirk but had a medical basis behind it.
Contributed by Arnold Plotnick, DVM
(in no particular order)
Dirty litter box
Too few litter boxes for cats in home
Dislike the texture of the litter
New brand of litter used
Household renovations
Move to a new home
New cat, dog, or person added to the household
Change in owner’s schedule
Threats from outside cat
Medical condition such as urinary tract infection
Physical discomfort in entering and exiting litter box
Q We have two cats, ages four and five. We are moving to a new place, and I want to use this opportunity to buy new litter boxes. We’ve always used open-style boxes, but I like the idea of litter boxes with hoods. My cats have never had any issues with using the litter boxes. Will my cats use covered litter boxes?
A Litter boxes, like litter, come in many different designs. In addition to the classic shallow open box, there are the newer covered styles, self-cleaning boxes, round-shaped boxes, and boxes that fit into corners. For the décor conscious, there are even litter boxes that tuck inside furniture to make them appear invisible to people. Some even feature doors that cats learn to open and close.
Since your two cats have used the open-style boxes with no issues, I would recommend that you keep your old ones for now and introduce a third with a hood as a test model. Some cats feel more secure using a litter box with a hood because it provides them with more privacy. Hooded types keep more litter in boxes especially when used by cats who like to kick up a fuss while burying their deposits. Covered boxes also make it harder for household dogs to conduct litter box raids.
However, hooded boxes harbor odor. You must be vigilant and scoop them daily and clean them weekly using warm water and mild detergent and let them air-dry. Hooded types may feel a bit cramped for larger cats to get into position and squat without bumping into the sides or hitting their heads.
If you’re willing to perform daily scoop patrol, than introduce the hooded type and let your cats choose. You might find that over time you are able to replace the old boxes with new covered ones.
Q We have a two-story home with three bedrooms and three bathrooms. We also have an enclosed patio. We have two indoor cats, ages fourteen and seven. I want to put the litter box in the master bathroom where I can easily clean it, but my husband insists that it belongs in the basement. Where is the best place in the house to locate a litter box?
A Make that litter boxes. Veterinarians and animal behaviorists recommend this litter box equation: one litter box per cat plus one extra. In your case, that number is three. Giving your cats choices increases the likelihood that they will routinely use a box instead of choosing a corner of the living room. If one cat stakes out a particular box, the other cat still has a place to go.
Another cardinal rule is to locate a litter box on each level of your home. You want to make litter boxes easily accessible to ensure that they will be used. In your situation, your older cat may have difficulty going up and down stairs. He needs — and deserves — to have a feline bathroom that is convenient to reach on every floor.
As for where, think like a furry realtor for a moment. With cats, it is all about location, location, location when it comes to litter boxes. Cats like their litter boxes in quiet locales that provide them with privacy. In your home, that could mean a corner in your enclosed patio, inside a den, and in the master bathroom as you suggest. Resist stashing litter boxes in laundry rooms or dark, damp basements. Sure, they are out of sight, out of mind for you, but your cats might find these places to be noisy and scary. And the less convenient they are for cleaning, the less likely you are to make a regular habit of scooping the poop.
Never place litter boxes near food and water bowls. It is a common misconception that this placement will serve as a reminder to cats to use the bathroom after meals. You are more likely to stir up a litter box boycott, because cats do not like to relieve themselves where they dine and drink.
Finally, position the litter boxes so they offer a welcoming entrance and escape route. This is important to prevent a cat using a litter box from being startled or tormented by a second cat or visiting dogs or guests. Be sure to escort your kitties to each new litter box location so they are aware of their bathroom options.
And one more tip: if you have dogs, especially those bent on sneaking a “snack” from a litter box, place a baby gate across the doorway to the room containing the litter box. I use a gate with vertical bars and position it about six inches above the floor. My cats have the option of leaping over or slinking under the gate, and it keeps my 60-pound dog, Chipper, from making any surprise visits. Vertical bars are better than horizontal ones that might serve to help a smart dog scramble up and over the gate.
Q I have a three-year-old, neutered, domestic short-hair named Winston. My husband and I recently moved from a two-bedroom condo to a four-bedroom detached house. I noticed no urine in the litter pan, so I started looking and found that Winston had urinated on an unpacked box in a spare room. We moved a mattress down to the basement so we could have something to sit on until we get a couch, and Winston urinated on that as well. The problem is, we are ordering a new couch. How can we make sure he doesn’t urinate on it?
A Cats behave like the Zorros of the companion-animal world. They like to leave their mark on their home turf. Most of the time, they do this by rubbing scent glands from their feet, cheeks, face, and tail on various places inside the home. But sometimes they mark with urine to proclaim ownership or to communicate to other cats within the household or to those lurking outside the back door.
Indoor cats protect their territory just as carefully as outdoor ones. Home represents a place of safety and comfort. Cats also crave routine and abhor change. It is not unusual for a cat in a new home to react by “forgetting” his previous toileting habits. Winston is doing what comes naturally to a nervous cat — he is marking his new territory with his scent as a way to feel more at home. The items you mentioned contain familiar smells from your condo that Winston misses, and to boost his confidence, he may feel the need to reinforce his markings on them.
Veterinary studies identify several common causes behind urine marking: interactions with other cats outside the home, interactions with cats inside the home, limited access to the outdoors, relocation to a new home, and changes in an owner’s daily schedule.
Although cats of either gender will urine mark, intact males are most likely to do so. They use their strong and pungent urine as a way to attract females in the surrounding area. Fortunately, your cat has been neutered, which tones down the odor.
Please rule out any possible medical condition that may be responsible for Winston’s changes in bathroom habits. If he is healthy, then the next strategy is to make your new home more welcoming to Winston.
Start by providing new litter boxes and fresh litter. Clean the litter boxes daily. Limit Winston’s access to various parts of the new house when you are not at home and definitely make the basement off-limits. Do not yell or hit Winston. You will only elevate his stress and probably prompt him to perform more marking. As he becomes comfortable in his new territory, you can gradually increase his access to the rest of the house.
Urine contains pheromones that communicate a cat’s health and mood. There is a product called Feliway that has been demonstrated to be effective in curbing behavior-related urine marking. Feliway is a chemical version of the feline facial pheromone. It works because cats tend not to urine mark locations where they have already left their facial pheromones.
This product comes in a spray as well as a diffuser that plugs into an electric outlet. The diffuser emits this synthetic scent (humans can’t smell it) 24 hours a day and lasts for about one month. You can spray Feliway directly onto urine marks and household items such as sofas, drapes, and doorframes without worrying that it will cause a stain.
In extreme cases, urine-marking cats may need calming medications for a period of time. Studies have shown that these drugs can reduce incidents of urine marking up to 75 percent. I urge you to work closely with your veterinarian in administering these medications and then gradually weaning your cat off of them.
We are fortunate that we have many more “weapons” available today than a decade ago to counter urine marking, but it still requires patience, consistency, and compliance with veterinarian’s or behaviorist’s recommendations to ensure success.
COCOA, AN EIGHT-YEAR-OLD SIAMESE, was described by her owner as laid back and comfortable around house-guests. Betty told me that Cocoa was adopted from a humane society when she was about a year old. Betty adored Cocoa’s ready purr and cuddling nature but became frustrated and perplexed when Cocoa began defecating outside her litter box and choosing carpeted areas inside the home. The episodes occurred a few times a week.
Medical exams ruled out any physical condition causing Cocoa’s change in bathroom behavior. I explained to Betty that some cats defecate outside their litter box as a way of marking their territory. In Cocoa’s case, however, considering her relaxed temperament, the reason most likely was due to a preference of surface or material (carpet versus litter box) rather than territorial motivation.
The game plan called for having Betty clean the soiled areas using a bacterial or enzymatic odor-neutralizing cleaner to completely remove the scent of feces, which can be a strong stimulus to return to the same spot. Next, I suggested that Betty keep a journal of the times and places where Cocoa eliminated to aid in choosing the best litter box location.
Betty confessed that she caught Cocoa in the act once and scolded her, causing Cocoa to flee the room. I explained that punishing Cocoa would not stop the unwanted behavior. In fact, it could cause Cocoa to continue this misdeed when Betty was out of sight.
To stop the cycle, I had Betty confine Cocoa in an uncarpeted room with a new litter box for a few days. The room included feline amenities like toys, cat tree, window to view, food, water, and warm bedding. Instead of the hooded litter box Cocoa used, I recommended an open version because some cats don’t mind urinating in a hooded box but prefer not to be enclosed when defecating.
Because Betty had a large home, I also urged her to get a second litter box and to fill both with unscented litter instead of the scented type she was currently using. I told her to keep the depth between two and four inches and to scoop the litter box daily. Finally, I had her make the targeted carpeted areas less attractive by attaching contact paper, sticky-side-out, on a piece of cardboard that was placed on top of the carpeted area. She also sprayed citrus scents to deter Cocoa from spending time in those carpeted areas.
With the new litter, open-style boxes, and sticky, citrus-smelling carpet, Cocoa returned to defecating in her litter box on a consistent basis.
Contributed by Alice Moon-Fanelli, certified applied animal behaviorist
Q I jokingly refer to Benny, my three-year-old neutered cat, as Velcro because he follows me from room to room when I am home. He also sleeps on my bed each night, often settling down there before I do. Everything was fine until I adopted a small puppy named Gracie, who is about eight months old and very sweet. Benny hisses at her and doesn’t like it when Gracie tries to sleep on the bed at night. On a few occasions, Benny has peed on the bed. What can I do to get Benny to accept Gracie?
A Some high-strung cats or solo felines in a home become very attached to their owners. To paraphrase a Shakespearean quote, “Beware of feline jealousy — it is the green-eyed monster.” Benny is not about to let a mere mutt muscle in and challenge him as top cat of the household. Since your Pee Prince can’t engage in a conversation with Gracie, he tells her in the best way he knows, by marking the disputed territory with his urine.
My advice is to give Gracie her own bed in your bedroom. Motivate her to settle down there by leaving treats on her bed at night. Think of it as a canine version of the mints left on pillows in fancy hotel rooms. You may need to reinforce her new sleeping arrangement by calmly saying “Off” if she jumps on your bed. Usher her back to her own bed and reward her for lying down on it. Gracie should be content with being in the same room as you and her feline mate, Benny.
Reinforce Benny’s rank by greeting him first when you come home and feeding him ahead of Gracie. Benny will be definitely paying attention to all of this and will note that Gracie ranks Number 3 in the household. Time is your ally. As Benny sees that this cute pup isn’t leaving, but that he still reigns as “top dog” he will become more confident and not need to mark.
I also advise you to keep the bedroom door closed while you’re gone and until you go to bed to limit Benny’s access. To oust his urine odor from your bedding, clean thoroughly with a protein enzymatic cleaner available at pet supply stores or from your veterinarian.
Q We adopted a healthy 12-week-old kitten. At first, we kept him in the bathroom at night and when we were not at home. He peed in the litter box but pooped in the bathtub. Now that he is older, he has full run of the house. We keep the litter box clean, scooping it every day, but he still poops on the tile floor next to the litter box. I am tired of cleaning it up. What can I do to get him to use the litter box?
A The one saving grace is that your kitten is targeting easy-to-clean flooring surfaces rather than carpets or furniture. Having become accustomed to using the smooth tub, he is continuing to find a familiar surface. Your young but savvy kitten is trying to tell you that he is not jazzed by the litter box shape or size, the location, or type of litter. Too often, people forget that litter box usage needs to be addressed from the cat’s point of view, not the owner’s. Keep in mind that urinating takes less time than defecating. Your kitten may not like to spend a lot of time in the litter box and opt to defecate outside the litter box.
Perhaps the litter box is too small or too large or the litter too deep for his liking. Try adding a second litter box of a different size without a hood. Position this one near the “scene of his poop crimes” but do not put in any litter. Instead, leave it empty or place a liner inside to create a smooth surface to attract your kitten. You may discover that he appreciates this new feline bathroom customized to his liking.
As with all elimination problems, you should have your veterinarian give your kitten a head-to-tail examination to verify that no medical problem exists. Some intact males will do fecal marking to establish their territory, so if you have not done so already, book an appointment to have your kitten neutered. That often cuts down on inappropriate elimination issues and also reduces his risk of developing prostate cancer.
Q My cat, Billy, has always used his litter box since he was a kitten. He is now nine years old and an indoor cat. There has been no change in the household routine. No recent houseguests, no new furniture, and no changes in what he eats. Lately I have noticed that Billy is making frequent trips to the litter box but producing only small amounts of urine. Sometimes he will squat and nothing comes out, but he howls as if he is in pain. What is happening?
A When a well-trained cat suddenly avoids the litter box and there has been no change in the daily routine, the cause is generally medical and not behavioral. Please have Billy checked immediately. He may be suffering from a feline lower urinary tract disease (FLUTD). He is exhibiting the classic signs: frequent bathroom visits, piddles instead of puddles, and pain.
At his age, he may also be at risk for kidney disease, diabetes (especially if he is overweight), hyperthyroidism, or liver disease. These serious medical conditions can make urinating or defecating painful. In addition, arthritis, anal sac disease, and loss of vision may make getting in and out of the litter box difficult. Treatment of these medical conditions may help to resolve this behavioral problem. Also consider adding a couple more litter boxes (try ones with lower sides) and placing the litter boxes in areas where Billy spends the most time. These strategies may be helpful in getting Billy to return to using the litter box normally.
Q I love my cat, Bica, but not her litter box. I hate the smell and the mess, and I hate dealing with the litter. I live in an apartment with a bath-and-a-half, so I have two toilets. I recently started to work from home. I don’t want to scoop the litter box every day or clean it every week, and I certainly don’t want to be working next to it in my small place. I’ve read about cats who use the toilet. Bica is a smart, friendly cat, and I think I could teach her to do that. Any advice?
A Toilet training a cat is not for everyone — nor every cat. Still, it is easier than you may realize. Some cats can learn in as little as three weeks, but most need a couple of months. The keys are patience and persistence. Training can be messy at first, so you need to keep your bathroom clean for Bica, you, and guests.
Confident and dominant cats make the best bathroom candidates because they tend to deliberately leave their urine and feces uncovered in their litter boxes. Cats with these personalities are more outgoing and willing to learn. Toilet training, however, may prove to be more challenging with shy and submissive cats. In general, these felines prefer to cover their deposits to try to ward off any sign or scent, and they do not embrace changes in the household routine.
Next, do you have what it takes to be a true toilet-training teacher? The chances for success are highest among people who are genuinely interested in their cats, who are sufficiently motivated, and who are very patient. People who don’t like to clean the box and who want to save money on litter are the most motivated to learn. That sounds like you.
This tactic works best when you have one bathroom to designate for training your cat and a separate one for you and your guests. You’ll have to keep the second bathroom door closed so your cat does not have access to the humans-only bathroom, but always leave the cat-friendly door open.
Before you begin, gather up the following materials: flushable litter, duct tape, plastic litter pan liner or kitchen plastic wrap, litter box, newspapers, and an aluminum roasting pan (125/8 by 101/8 by 3 inches deep). Once you have them in hand, follow these recommended steps for toilet training a cat:
1. Post a CAT IN TRAINING sign on the door and a Keep the Lid Up at aLL times sign above the toilet.
2. Place the litter box in the bathroom perched on a sturdy three-inch stack of newspapers for five to seven days. Intermittently reward your cat with a food treat when she uses the litter box.
3. Every couple of days, raise the litter box three to five inches with newspapers until the box is even with the closed toilet seat. Your cat may start to walk on the toilet seat. Praise her.
4. Place the litter box on top of the closed toilet lid for a couple of days to accustom your cat to being on top of the toilet.
5. Replace the litter box with the aluminum roasting pan filled with three inches of litter. Put the pan inside the toilet, securing it with duct tape on the sides. Close the toilet seat (not the lid) on top of the pan for a week.
6. Use a screwdriver to make a hole the size of a quarter into the bottom center of the aluminum pan. At this point, sprinkle only a small amount of flushable litter in the pan so as not to clog your toilet. Each day make the hole bigger. After two weeks, cut the entire bottom out of the pan.
7. When the cat is reliably using the toilet, remove the pan and duct tape. Remember to keep the toilet lid up so your cat can balance on the toilet seat. Important: Never flush when the cat is on the toilet!
Proceed slowly and expect some setbacks. If Bica makes a mistake, go back a step for a few days to reinforce the proper behavior. It may seem frustrating, but it is really the only way to overcome resistance to new learning. You also must get in the habit of always leaving the bathroom door open and the toilet lid up to provide 24-hour access for Bica. Otherwise, you risk incurring accidents and behavior problems.
Once Bica has mastered this feat, you can wow your guests by showing off her bathroom talents. And you can delight in never having to change the litter again. By the way, potty-training kits for cats do exist. Some are available from online pet product supply companies.
Q I have read that cats do not like the feel of plastic. So to stop my cat from peeing on the sofa, bed, and certain areas of the carpet, I put big plastic sheets down. Guess what? She now goes to the bathroom more on the plastic than in the litter box. She will also urinate on plastic grocery bags if they are left empty on the kitchen floor. She is an indoor cat, spayed, about four years old. How can I stop her from peeing on plastic?
A Plastic often deters cats from urinating in the wrong places, but your cat is clearly an exception to this rule. Some cats would rather eliminate on a smooth surface than in a pile of litter and will urinate on the bottom of a just-cleaned litter box before owners have time to refill with litter. It has to do with personal feline preference. If you have ruled out a medical reason for not using the box, try providing her with a clean litter box with very little or no litter in it. See Location, Location, Location on page 176 for more on finding the right spot for the litter box.
While you work on making the litter box more acceptable, you need to outsmart your urine-marking cat by putting down other materials that are less appealing. Consider using strips of aluminum foil on the targeted areas. Or, better yet, go to your pet supply store and purchase a double-sided sticky material called Sticky Paws. This ingenious product comes in strips and large sheets and can be applied to places cats should not be. Cats detest the gummy feel on their paws and will soon start avoiding these areas. You can make a homemade version by covering cardboard with contact paper (sticky side out) for the large areas where you don’t want your cats to roam. A sheet or large towel sprayed with an aversive scent like Boundary Spray may also be effective.
Don’t worry. Your home décor will only be temporarily altered. Most cats will consistently start to steer clear of these areas within a few weeks. You can then remove the deterrents.
Q I have a sweet, shy Persian named Princess and a bold Abyssinian named Max. I bought Princess first before purchasing Max as a kitten about a year ago. Princess is three. They get along fine until Princess tries to use the litter box. Max seems to enjoy stalking her and pouncing on her when she tries to go. The litter box is located in the corner of a closet in the spare bedroom. I yell at Max, but it doesn’t stop him. Poor Princess is becoming a bundle of nerves. She hasn’t made any messes outside the litter box, but I’m afraid she may start. Any answers?
A Kittens will be kittens, but this is not acceptable. In a multi-cat situation, a dominant cat will pick on a shy cat. Persians by breed tend to be quiet, cuddly, and nonconfrontational. Abys, on the other hand, are more outgoing and bolder. Also, Max is younger and more rambunctious, while Princess has left her silly kitten days behind her.
With the one and only litter box located in a corner of a closet, Princess has no way to flee the scene when attacked. She feels trapped, and you are right to worry that in time she may start secretly urinating behind the couch and other places. The first thing you need to do is add two more litter boxes. The recommended number is one per cat plus one extra. Max cannot guard three litter boxes at one time. With more spots to choose from, he may feel less inclined to protect “his” litter box.
Place the new litter boxes in different rooms. Position them away from walls and in more open areas so Princess can view the room or see the doorway. This will give her a little more time to see Max coming and be better prepared.
Tempting as it is, do not yell at Max. You will only escalate the tension and anxiety that both animals are feeling. Instead, distract Max when you see Princess head to a litter box by engaging him in play or bribing him with a treat. Finally, if you have not already neutered Max, please do so. That will also tone down his bullying tendencies.
