Is your cat part of the “in” crowd? By that, I don’t mean is he a cool cat, but is he a safe cat? Safe cats live indoors and do not roam outside without supervision.
Times have changed. A generation ago, most household cats freely wandered wherever their curiosity steered them. My childhood cat, Corky, used to stay out all night until he limped home with a gaping wound from the fan blade of a car. He found a warm spot to snooze by climbing inside the engine. That was the last time that he spent any solo time outside.
Cats still stalk the outdoors, but many people choose to keep their feline friends inside. Cats can live happily inside, enjoying the view out the windows, climbing on special cat trees, and playing with a variety of boredom-busting toys. Do you choose freedom or safety? The choice is yours, but now you know my views.
Paw through this section with an open mind. Find new ways to make your home truly fit for your feline. And if your cat drives you crazy, look for answers to sharing your bed, teaching an old cat new tricks, and traveling with (or without) your pal.
Q My kitty, Bebe, is adventurous and adoring by day but turns into a pillow pig at night. At bedtime, she starts out at the foot of my bed while I brush my teeth. When I crawl under the covers, she creeps forward and nestles by my side. But by the middle of the night when I am in a deep sleep, she has commandeered my pillow. She walks right over me and wakes me up. I like having her sleep on my bed, but how can I keep her off my pillow so I can get some sleep?
A When it comes to sharing your bed with your cat, you’re not alone. About one-third of today’s cat owners sleep with their felines. Little wonder. Their furry bodies and soothing purrs often help lull people to sleep. A study conducted at the Mayo Clinic Sleep Disorders Center, however, found that about half the people who let pets share their bed at night suffer from disrupted sleep that results in their being tired each morning. The researchers also found that many people are so attached to their pets that they are willing to tolerate poor sleep in order to be near them at night.
I have to admit that I’m guilty — my cats stay down at the bottom third of my bed, but I sleep on my back, an ideal position for cats who wish to snooze with their heads propped on ankles or calves. Fortunately, I’m a heavy sleeper and my cats are, too. Once they carve out a spot, they tend to sleep until morning.
In your case, however, Bebe sounds like one bossy cat. She feels entitled to sleep wherever she chooses, regardless of your preferences. Cute as she may be, you need to regain control of your bed and your pillow and retrain Bebe about bed boundaries. Start by making the bottom of your bed more appealing. Provide Bebe with her own plush pillow or soft fleecy blanket. Praise her when she settles down there. Be consistent about moving her to the bottom of your bed before you are asleep. Or compromise by providing Bebe with her own pillow next to yours.
To make your pillow less appealing, consider lightly spraying your pillow with a citrus scent (one you enjoy). Cats are not fond of that aroma. If she wakes you up in the middle of the night, either put her back in her spot or push her on to the floor. After being ousted a few times, most cats get the idea and adjust to the new bedroom rules.
You may sacrifice a few nights of sleep to teach Bebe about the new no-pillow zone, but she will soon realize she has a great spot at the foot of your bed. Sweet dreams!
Q My cat, Bruno, is a big, muscular cat. He is very friendly and easygoing. Since he was a kitten, he has ventured wherever he pleased around the neighborhood. Our property is one acre with some woods. Bruno is now 10 years old and seems to be slowing down a bit. Our winters here are cold and nasty. The addition of a recent housing development in our neighborhood has created more traffic on our street. For all these reasons, I’d like Bruno to become an indoor cat. What’s the best way for me to do this without upsetting him?
A You certainly don’t want a Bruno protest. Remind yourself that your actions are done out of genuine love and concern for Bruno. You are giving Bruno the best gift you can give him — a longer, healthier life.
I can tell you have already assessed the “feline fear factor.” You recognize that Bruno’s age plus worsening weather and escalating traffic are increasing the chance of his becoming injured or ill due to his free-roaming lifestyle. With Bruno indoors, you will no longer have to worry about him developing an abscess from scrapping with a stray, being exposed to poisonous yard-care products or antifreeze, or developing a contagious disease like feline leukemia.
It’s only natural to feel a little guilt at first. You are probably assuming that Bruno will feel that his freedom has been yanked from him. He may indeed act out in undesirable ways, like urine marking, yowling at the door, or clawing your sofa.
To avoid these bad behaviors, you need to make his indoor domain far more stimulating and appealing than the outside scene that he is used to. An outdoor cat exercises more and engages his senses more, so you will need to replace the sights, smells, and sounds of the outdoors. Bruno may be 10 years old, but he probably has a lot of kittenish play left in him. He needs daily exercise and interactive play sessions to keep him happy and not pining for the outdoor life. Catnip mice, cat wands, and feather toys on sticks can all be used to bring out the playful predator in Bruno and give him appropriate outlets for hunting, stalking, and chasing. Look for toys that he can play with by himself, such as a ball in a round track or a mouse on an elastic string that you hang in a doorway. Put some kibble in a hollow toy that he can bat around so that treats trickle out.
If he shows any interest in watching your television, you could buy him a couple of nature programs specially designed to engage the attention of cats. Provide Bruno with suitable places to scratch and claw and a comfy perch to view what’s happening outside. Position some sturdy scratching posts in key rooms where the two of you spend a lot of time, such as the living room and bedroom. Install a window perch that overlooks a bird feeder or a tree where the local squirrel gang likes to hang out.
The latest trend in feline décor is outdoor enclosures that allow a cat to safely enjoy a bit of the outdoors without coming to any harm. Cat fencing is also available. (See Bring the Outdoors In, page 268.)
If Bruno starts making loud demands at the door, your natural instinct may be to yell at him to quiet down. That won’t work. You two will only get in a “who can yell louder” match. And guess what? You’ll lose. Instead, ignore him. It won’t be easy initially and your patience will be tested. When he is quiet for even a few seconds, call him over and give him a treat or scratch his chin or play a game with him. In time, his yowling will subside as he realizes you are not caving in to his demands.
I want to address the issue of inappropriate elimination, which can be a problem for a cat making the transition to indoor life. If Bruno has traditionally performed his bathroom duties outside, you may need to teach him how to use a litter box. I recommend that you confine Bruno to a small but cozy room for a week or so. Provide him with a litter box that you scoop out daily. Locate his bed and his food and water bowls on the opposite side of the room from the box. Ideally, this room should have a window for him to look out of. Consider playing music on low volume and spend some time playing and cuddling with him each day. Make sure he has plenty of toys to amuse himself with.
You can’t tone down Mother Nature and you usually can’t stop progress, but you can take the necessary steps in your own home to make it feel feline friendly to Bruno.
Q I’ve accepted the fact that my cat needs to scratch. My problem is that I haven’t had much luck in picking out the right scratching post for her. I tried a small bargain-priced scratching post, but she kept knocking it over. Then I lugged home a big cat tree from a garage sale, but she sniffs it and ignores it. I don’t want to keep wasting money, but I don’t want my furniture damaged either. Why is she so picky?
A This sounds like a feline version of The Three Bears. However, your cat is behaving quite normally. The reason she rejected the first post is because it was simply too tiny to accommodate her weight or her muscle. It would be like you trying to enjoy a meal at a restaurant sitting in a booster chair made for toddlers.
The issue with the second option is “kitty cooties.” You thought you landed a deal by buying a used cat tree, but your cat quickly sniffed out the tree’s former user. Cats often don’t like to share with strangers. Your cat clearly communicated her disdain for the secondhand cat tree by avoiding it.
Before you invest in a third choice, spend some time watching your cat as she seeks out a scratching spot. Does she reach up high against the arm of the sofa or stretch out along the carpet? Use her habits to provide her with the most suitable option and provide her with some choices.
A horizontal surface should be large enough to accommodate both paws and sturdy enough to stay in place while being used. Many cats like the corrugated cardboard of this style of scratcher, which is not very expensive.
For a vertical post, make sure that the base is heavy and broad enough to handle your cat’s weight and tugging. Scratching posts must be tall enough for your cat to stand on her hind legs and fully stretch her front paws. Look for one at least 32 inches high. If it wobbles or moves when you poke it, it won’t stand up to use by an actual cat.
You also need to evaluate what material most appeals to your cat. Some cats prefer tactile textures, such as sisal (rope), bark, or wood. Other felines flock to knobby, loosely woven fabrics. Some like simple designs made of carpet or cardboard. Some cats can’t resist scratching posts or trees that feature attached toys on springs or dangling ropes. Cater to your cat’s preference when shopping.
Locate the scratching post or tree in a place your cat spends a lot of time. Make it more tempting by sprinkling some fresh catnip on it. Give her a couple of different options in different rooms.
As editor of Catnip, I supervise testing of products. Each month, a team of test cats (and kittens) and a contributing writer assess and evaluate a variety of products designed for felines. When we tested an assortment of scratching posts and trees, the winners were those that proved to be the most stable, those that fit snugly on the arms of sofas, and those that offered angles for both horizontal and vertical scratching.
Every cat deserves her own furniture for unsheathing her claws. So think like a cat when you shop. This is no time to shop on the cheap. In the end, you will save your sofa — and your sanity — by choosing a scratching post or tree that your cat will use for many years to come.
Q For years, my husband and I have owned dogs. We’re nearing retirement and our beloved dog recently passed away. We both have some physical limitations and think we had better not have another dog, but we still want a pet to love. We have decided to adopt a cat. What should we do to prepare before we bring our new friend home?
A I salute you both for recognizing that a cat is better suited to your lifestyle as you enter your golden years. A cat does have different needs than a dog, though some items will be the same. For starters, your shopping cart needs to contain two litter boxes, clumping litter, a litter scoop, food bowl, water bowl, a breakaway collar, identification tag (with your phone number), brush and comb, nail clipper, appropriate food (depending on the age of the cat), treats, a sturdy scratching post, a comfy bed, a leash, harness, and, most important, toys!
Select toys that are safe. Avoid any with small pieces such as fake eyes that your cat might chew off and swallow. Better choices are toys that tap your kitten’s predatory nature, such as feathers on wands, mouse mitts (fabric gloves with long, dangly fingers), and treat balls.
Scout each room of your house and be on the lookout for anything that could cause peril to your new feline. Specifically, make sure you don’t leave dental floss, balls of yarn, sewing thread, or other string within reach. (Watch out for tinsel at Christmas!) These items can cause strangulation or can be ingested by a curious cat, possibly causing fatal internal injuries.
The initial investment may cause a bit of sticker shock, but once you have the essentials, your monthly budget should not be overly taxed by the presence of a cat. My final recommendation is that you consider purchasing pet health insurance. Even though your cat may be destined for a long and healthy life as an indoor cat, you can’t predict when injury or illness may occur. Protect your cat — and your pocketbook — by obtaining pet insurance while your kitten is young and the premium is low.
Q My cat, Chuckles, is quite the jokester. He loves to play and dash around the house. He also insists on trying to perch his big body on the narrow window ledge in the living room. He is always jumping up and falling off. There is a window ledge in my upstairs study that is wide enough for him to sit on, but when I put him on it, he jumps down. Why does he insist on trying to sit on a ledge that is clearly too narrow for him?
A Chuckles knows where he can view the best action of outdoor activities in your neighborhood. Cats are nosey neighbors. They love to spend hours eyeing what’s happening in your yard and at the next-door neighbor’s house. Chuckles is clearly telling you that he wants to check out what’s going on outside your living room window. He can probably see more birds, squirrels, or other critters from there than from your upstairs window.
The easy solution — and one that can still blend into your home décor — is to install a window ledge that can handle his wide girth. Don’t worry. You won’t have to do any drilling or poke any holes in your drywall. Many sturdy, stylish window ledges fasten securely with suction cups and sticky strips. They also feature plush or fleece-lined covers that come in a variety of colors and can be easily machine washed.
If you don’t want to add a cat perch to your windowsill, consider placing a cat post with a platform next to this favored spot so that Chuckles can sit in comfort. Another solution might be a dining room chair, with a towel to protect the upholstery, which can easily be removed when you have company and put back in time for the next day’s viewing.
Treat Chuckles to a comfortable seat in the living room where he can occupy a lot of his home-alone time scouting the neighborhood, and he’ll be less apt to perform any unwanted behaviors. While you’re at home, he may even meow you over to catch a glimpse of a rare bird or to check out the funny socks that your neighbor is sporting.
Q Whenever I leave or enter the house through the door leading to the garage, my big orange tabby, Morris, stands ready to bolt out the door. He is quite a muscular, pushy cat. Sometimes I can’t reach the garage door opener quickly enough to shut the overhead garage door before Morris scoots out and down the driveway. He’s supposed to be an indoor cat, so I have to run after him and bring him home, which can take a long time. What can I do to keep Morris from bolting out the door?
A What makes an indoor cat feel the need to prowl outside? Morris may be smelling and hearing other cats, especially during the breeding seasons, or he may be curious about the trees and grass he can see from the window (not to mention the birds!). He obviously hates to be a homebody. He doesn’t understand that he is safer inside. He also thinks he can throw his weight around with you.
You can retrain Morris to meet and greet you at a particular spot when you leave or return home. Practice luring Morris over to a favorite place, such as a window perch or a cat tree. Then say your good-byes there. Give him a special treat or a pinch of catnip to occupy him while you exit. If he likes to chase things, take a paper wad, crinkle it in your hand to make enticing sounds, and toss it in the opposite direction as you exit. Or toss him a toy mouse to distract him. Also, randomly choose different doors to enter and leave. A cat can’t lay in wait at three different exits. Practice with the main garage door shut, so that even if Morris turns into Houdini, you’ll be able to recapture him easily.
When you come home, close the garage door while you practice your returns. Walk in the house door, completely ignoring the ever-waiting Morris. Go over to the chosen spot. Call him over, greet him, and offer him a treat. The idea is to motivate Morris to move away from the door when you leave and when you come home in exchange for a tasty payoff at the window perch or cat tree.
Another method is to discourage him from approaching the door at all. One of my friends had a similar problem with her bolting cat. She placed squirt guns on either side of the exit door. When she was coming or going, she aimed low and squirted her cat in the chest area. It caught him off guard enough to cause him not to stand so close to the door any more. Just take careful aim and do not splash Morris in the face. A noisy shaker (you can make one from an empty soda can with a few pennies taped inside) or a few sharp claps of your hand might chase him away long enough for you to get through the door safely.
Consider satisfying your cat’s need to experience the outdoors by installing a window enclosure or taking him for walks. Fit him in a harness attached to a leash and let him sniff and scout out what’s happening on your block. Many cats can become accustomed to wearing a leash if you take it slowly and reward them for small steps. (See Walk This Way, page 293, for more on leash training.)
If Morris does escape, please don’t scold him or reprimand him when he returns to the house. You will only confuse him and possibly dampen his desire to come home.
Q I want to tinker with my interior a bit to better accommodate my four indoor cats, who range in age from two to ten. They all get along, but I suspect they are a bit bored when I’m at work during the day. They sleep a lot and need to exercise more. However, I do not want to spend a lot of money or turn my house into, well, a cathouse! I don’t want to be labeled a crazy cat lady. I also don’t want to turn it into a place that I can’t sell sometime in the future. Any tips on cat design projects?
A Your quartet is quite fortunate to have you in their lives. Don’t worry, you are anything but a crazy cat lady. In fact, you represent two other C words: caring and considerate. You can renovate your place to make it more feline appealing without turning it into a place that would have limited appeal to future buyers.
If you’re handy with a drill and hammer, you can install a sturdy shelf in a corner for your cats to perch from on high, instead of changing the entire look of the room with a catwalk that runs the entire length of a wall. You can lean a sisal-covered plank up to a bookcase nook or partially wrap a floor to ceiling post in the den or rec room with sisal for your cats so they can act like feline firefighters, scaling up and down the pole.
Even if you’re reluctant to drill holes in your walls, you can make your place look like a fashion showcase while catering to your cat’s needs. Among the new products available for felines and their décor-conscious owners are big, soft pillows, cat condos that match your furniture, designer feeders and water bowls, and litter boxes disguised as houseplant containers.
Finally, you can make use of certain features in your home to hide cat necessities, such as litter boxes. Alice Moon-Fanelli shares an interior design solution she offered to a client whose cat was urinating outside the litter box, including in the fireplace. The client did not want to put a litter box in the living room. Upon further questioning, Dr. Moon-Fanelli learned that the fireplace was not in working order and was never used. So, she suggested that the client place a litter box in the fireplace and cover the opening with a decorative fireplace screen. The cat’s needs were met and no more incidents of inappropriate urination were reported.
This is a start for you to unleash your imagination, not open your pocketbook. You can probably come up with other creative ways to make your interior more feline-friendly to your fabulous foursome.
EDNA AND AL HAD EAGERLY AWAITED the arrival of Ruffian, a 16-week-old Abyssinian kitten. Her breeders shipped progress photos, special litter, food treats, and a care manual for this kitten about to join a two-cat household. Knowing acceptance by resident cats might be complicated, I provided a multistep introduction plan.
Edna’s special “prince” was an eight-year-old, neutered Abyssinian male with an only-cat, one-person attitude, and a high energy level. The “grande dame,” at 19 years old, was quite frail and showing signs of senility. She preferred a quiet lap-sitting existence and well-established routine. Both were more bonded to their owners than to each other.
A well-socialized, four-month-old Aby is usually self-confident and will enthusiastically meet new cats and human friends. Adult resident cats, however, do not initially welcome a newcomer. Similar to their cousins in the wild, domestic cats display protective territorial traits that require gradual exposure during introductions.
Even after a long flight and car ride, Ruffian arrived at her new home with play on her mind. A bathroom was prepared with a comfortable cozy blanket, toys, litter, and food, but when Ruffy jumped up on the counter, she was shocked to see another kitten in the mirror. Step One in my introduction instructions — providing a “safe room” — suddenly turned into a catastrophe. A shaking and terrified kitten watched the mirror being covered with newspaper pages to block the view.
Once Ruffy had calmed down, we were ready for the second step of exchanging smells over a few days. This involved allowing the resident cats to sniff Ruffy’s carrier and blanket in the safe room, while the kitten became acquainted with the rest of the house.
Step Three called for the first glimpse between the resident cats and the kitten through a glass door. There was some hissing, but Ruffy was thrilled to finally see another Abyssinian. She happily ran around, launching herself onto the kitchen counter and eventually crashing into the other cats’ water dishes. From then on, it was clear she was no longer satisfied with life in the safe room.
Then came the final step — contact. The resident cats were held so they could sniff and greet Ruffy, who was also restrained. The senior female cat acted uninterested but expressed her protest by retreating. The male appeared miffed but politely avoided lashing out. Finally, with mealtime as a distraction, all three began to mingle peacefully.
Today, the three cats may not be best buds, but harmony exists. As for Ruffy, she displays a typical Aby personality by enjoying a ride on top of the vacuum.
Contributed by Joan Miller, all-breed judge
Q My cat is driving me crazy! I adopted him from the local shelter a couple of months ago. He is about a year old. I want him to be an indoor cat, but he is constantly demanding to go outside. I have to be very careful when I open my door or he will try to slip out. I own a home with a backyard, but I can’t afford to fence the whole thing in. I tried to train him to walk on a leash, but that was a disaster. Are there other ways I can safely satisfy his need to be outdoors?
A Clearly, your kitty craves the sights, sounds, and smells of the outdoors. It is likely that he was an outside cat before you adopted him, but if you are patient, you can probably persuade him to adapt to indoor life. You don’t want his demands or door bolting to escalate into deeper behavior problems. His indoor-only status can cause more stress and anxiety, so you need to provide distractions for him.
Many creative companies are designing a variety of outdoor enclosures that give cats the outdoors minus the dangers. They vary in size and price, ranging from window enclosures to freestanding gazebo-type enclosures positioned in the backyard. Some are freestanding while others are attached to the house and accessed through a cat flap door. All of these enclosures are designed to keep your cat safe while allowing him some time outside.
Some of these models can take a major bite out of your household budget, but might be worth the cost if your cat is calmer and happier when he has an outlet for his outdoor longing. Even something as simple as a window enclosure will give your cat the chance to soak up vitamin D from the sun and be out of paw’s reach from dangerous predators such as dogs or coyotes.
The more elaborate outdoor enclosures include screened-in designs that can fill a good portion of your backyard. Inside one of these, your cat can play on the grass, climb a tree, and chase bugs safely. You can also place ready-made cat posts and trees inside the enclosure for your cat to claw and climb and cuddle inside cubbyholes.
Please keep safety in mind for whatever enclosure you choose. Make sure that it is attached to your home or within easy sight. The enclosure should offer both sunny and shady spots, contain fresh water, and meet any zoning laws of your municipality.
Q My two dogs enjoy playing together and with us. But my cat, Mandy, is content to just watch. Once they grow out of kittenhood, do cats really want to play? Do they need to play? Mandy seems happy grooming herself, sitting on my lap, eating, and sleeping. Should I be concerned?
A Adult cats are not hairy, dust-collecting pieces of furniture. Like their canine counterparts, felines do want — and need — to play. All grooming, napping, and eating can make Mandy a dull cat. I am a big promoter of play with a purpose. Teaching your cat to play effectively can improve her social skills and her level of fitness. Play helps keep feline hearts healthy, joints limber, and muscles strong. It also allows cats to practice hunting and play-fighting skills and strengthens their connection with you. Keeping your cat active will prevent her from becoming obese. And regular exercise will keep her mentally alert as well.
Kittens learn how to behave like cats through playtime supervised by their moms. The basis of play for cats falls into two areas: social and object-oriented. Social play involves other cats, family pets — like your two dogs — and people. Object play involves manipulating a toy or other item that hones a cat’s dexterity.
Although some cats are born to play, Mandy appears to need a little encouragement. One way to motivate her is with the right toy. My brother, Kevin, has a toy chest filled with a variety of feline items for his cat, Lager. They include a ping-pong ball, catnip mice on strings, and wads of paper and foil. Like many play-minded cats, Lager will initiate games by rubbing against Kevin’s legs and then dashing away. Other play cues include pawing at your arm and delivering steady eye-to-eye stares.
Enlist the aid of one of your cat-friendly dogs. Try tying a long string on to your dog’s collar. As your dog walks around the house, he’ll drag the string along the floor. That should bring out Mandy’s pouncing proclivities. Remember, with cats, it is all about movement. They like to hunt, stalk, and chase objects that are mobile. Just make sure that the dog is in a playful mood and up for the cat’s antics. For safety reasons, always supervise closely and end the game on a happy note.
Please be persistent and encouraging. It may take some time for Mandy to turn into a playful cat. Be sure to praise her and whoop it up so she knows this is a special time with you. Once Mandy views you as the Queen of Feline Play and comes to feel that she is as valued a pal as your two dogs are, you may discover a wonderful new side to her personality.
My friends Bob Walker and Frances Mooney share their San Diego home with a dozen rescue cats. Despite the crowd, these kitties don’t have tiffs or urine-mark in the house, because Bob and Frances have created a feline fantasyland. This talented, cat-happy couple used inexpensive materials to create a jungle gym that satisfies the most curious of cats.
There are cats everywhere, thanks to floor-to-ceiling scratching poles, catwalks, ramps, and cubbyholes. Four hundred feet of sisal is wrapped around a column and a ceiling-high ledge, where the cats snooze contentedly. An “elevated highway” made of painted plywood crisscrosses the rooms. There are even holes cut in the walls to provide passage between rooms. Brightly colored paint and fun details add to the unique look.
In their book, The Cats’ House, Bob and Frances share tips on how to build ramps, catwalks, and other feline features. Each year they open their home for touring, with proceeds donated to a local cat protection society.
In this house, there are no worries about a sofa being clawed or a sock being stolen. There are far too many cat-cool functional furnishings to occupy the minds and physical needs of the tabby troop. As Bob puts it, “If possession is nine-tenths of the law, then our place is truly the cats’ house. After all, our cats are at home more than we are.”
Q My five-year-old cat, Indie, has so much energy that he tires me out. He is constantly bugging me to play with him, even though I give him plenty of attention. Can you suggest some safe toys that will keep him busy and allow me to be able to read a book without his persistent pawing?
A Are you sure you don’t have a Labrador puppy disguised as a cat? It brings a smile to my face to hear of felines who love to play well into their adult years. But I can empathize with your request to be able to read a book, watch a television show, or work on the computer without Indie’s persistent pleading.
Indie seems to have a giant need to exercise. Since cats aren’t welcome at the local gyms to work up a sweat and unleash their pent-up energies, you need to bring the gym to your cat. I’m not talking about bringing in live mice for Indie to hunt or planting a tree in the middle of your living room for him to climb, though he would probably enjoy both of those! But do provide him with a couple of places that he can jump up onto — perhaps a carpeted cat tree with several levels or a shelf in a corner overlooking the television room.
Another suggestion is to encourage Indie to play with his food. Instead of filling his bowl with kibble, make mealtime a tasty treasure hunt. Scoop up pieces of kibble and place them on each step of a stair or on a long hallway for Indie to sniff out and eat. Do this each morning before you leave for work to occupy his time and again in the early evening when you come home and want to relax. You can also put some special treats in a treat ball that features small openings. When nudged or pawed, the ball moves and releases tasty prizes one at a time. Watch Indie as he goes on a food hunt.
As editor of Catnip magazine, I enjoy the opportunity to test products, including toys, for our feline friends. Here are some types of products that have been tested and given paws up approval by the team of Catnip test cats.
BALLS IN BOXES. These toys resemble the feline version of a Rubik’s cube. Some of the more popular ones feature square-shaped pressboard boxes with holes on the top and sides that are big enough to insert toy balls for cats to fish out with their paws.
ROUND AND ROUND WE GO. For cats who love to give chase, try a ball in a heavy plastic track that goes round and round with each paw swat. In the center of some track balls are corrugated cardboard insert pads suitable for scratching. Cats get the double bonus of stalking a ball and honing their claws.
MOVING TOYS. Toys with batteries and a remote control device rotate and move erratically to mimic insect motion. Some of these toys come in the shape of popular cat cartoon characters like Garfield.
My final advice: Please book 10 to 15 minutes of interactive playtime each day with Indie as well. Teach Indie some tricks through clicker training or introduce him to indoor agility. (See Click! Click! Train Your Tabby, page 280, and Make Way for Feline Athletes, page 284.) You are doing your part to build his confidence and keep him in shape. As invaluable as keep-busy toys are, they should never be used as replacements for that special bonding time you can share with your playful pup, er, I mean puss!
Don’t let your cat play with the following items. They are too easily swallowed or wrapped around a neck.
Yarn
Dental floss
Rubber bands
Paper clips
Plastic bags
Dangling curtain cords
Q All four of my cats will follow my dog and me on our walks, but most of them give up after a block or so. Riley, however, is very persistent and will follow us no matter how far we go. She yowls and meows until I stop and wait for her to catch up. Usually, we keep our walks short when we get “caught” by Riley, but one time, she followed us all the way around a nearby tennis court. She crossed streets and walked through several open areas to keep up. Why does she follow me if it seems so stressful?
A This is a case of kitty see, kitty go. Clearly, Riley is a very confident cat who trusts you, your dog, your surroundings, and herself. Cats do not typically walk in open areas if they sense any danger. They are more apt to hide in shrubbery and scout out the nearest tree limbs in case of danger.
But not Ms. Riley. Chalk this habit up to her powerful personality. I would not take her vocalizing as stress as much as it is her wish to be chatty on your outings. Talk back to her in an upbeat tone. She just wants to be part of the pack. You should take this as a big feline compliment.
My cat Corky would follow anyone carrying a fishing pole because he associated the pole with a tasty bluegill meal. I even experimented a few times by walking out the front door with the fishing pole but moving in the opposite direction from our backyard lake. Corky happily trotted by my side anyway. Perhaps he thought I was merely taking the scenic route to the fish-filled lake.
It sounds like your neighborhood is quiet and without a lot of traffic, and that you keep tabs on your feline entourage, especially the roaming Riley. Still, I recommend that you train Riley to use a made-for-cats harness so that you can reel her in should any sudden danger surface. And it’s a good idea to do a head count to make sure all the cats are inside before you and the dog head out for a long walk or run.
Q My husband and I have different views on whether cats are capable of learning tricks. My husband believes that cats are out to please only themselves and have no interest in doing some of the tricks that dogs do willingly. I believe that with the right motivation, we can train our cat to shake paws, sit up, and other commands. I hope you can settle this bet. Which one of us is right?
A You win this bet, paws down. Cats are not commonly thought of as performers, but many do participate in circuses, street shows, and movies. One effective method for working with cats is clicker training. Clicker training involves the use a distinctive sound to reinforce desired actions. Karen Pryor, a world-renowned animal behaviorist, first used clicker training on dolphins. A couple of decades ago, she began employing her clicker training on dogs, cats, and other critters. She is regarded as the pioneer in this training technique for pets.
Clicker training is a positive technique that relies on operant conditioning to shape a desired action or behavior without force or cajoling. The premise is simple: encourage the animal to perform desired actions by rewarding appropriate behavior. Clicker training works because there is no punishment involved. You draw attention to the behaviors you’re seeking in your cat and ignore other actions.
As for your own cat, here are some ways you can bring out his true talents through clicker training. You can buy a small, plastic clicker at most pet supply stores, or you can use a ballpoint pen. Whichever you use, it is important that you stick with it so that its distinctive sound serves as a cue for your feline student. Make the clicking sound and then offer a small treat. In the first few sessions, you are merely introducing the clicker sound to your cat and establishing that the sound equals a treat.
Timing is key to clicker training’s success. When your cat does something you want, for example raising his front paw, you need to press the clicker, hand over a small treat, and immediately say “paw” to reinforce the desired behavior. In time, the light bulb will turn on inside your cat’s head as he starts to recognize the link between the word “paw” and the sound of the reinforcing click.
To use a clicker to teach your cat to sit on cue, start by luring him into a sitting position with a food treat or target stick that you slowly move over his head toward his back. Let gravity be your ally. As his head follows the treat, his back end will naturally touch the floor. When this happens, click and hand over the treat. Clicking signals “mission accomplished.” If he doesn’t sit, do nothing. Do not give a treat or say a word. Let him figure out what provides him with a tasty dividend and what doesn’t.
You need only invest a few minutes each day in clicker-training sessions with your cat. Felines learn best in mini-sessions, not marathon lectures. Their attention spans tend to evaporate after five or ten minutes. Conduct your training sessions in a quiet place where you can work without distractions. Time the training before a meal, so that your hungry cat will be more motivated to learn.
Using a clicker, you can train your cat to perform a few basic commands as well as other things limited only by your imagination and your cat’s preferences. You can teach your cat to do the cha-cha, for example, if he likes to walk forward and backward when he follows you into the kitchen. You can also train your cat to move in a circle, shake with his front paw, or even meow on cue.
The beauty of clicker training comes in the payoff. You end up with a more mentally stimulated cat and a stronger friendship bond with him. Once your cat is consistently completing some clicker-trained tricks, stage a performance for your husband and watch his amazement at these feline feats.
(See Strays Turned Stars, page 160, for more on performing cats and Master of the Ring, page 302, for information about cat agility.)
Q For the past few years, I have enjoyed competing in agility with my Australian shepherd. It is good exercise and a lot of fun for both of us. Recently, I adopted a very smart Siamese cat through a breed rescue group. Simone is two years old. We bonded very quickly. She follows me around the house like a dog, chats to me, and likes to learn. She sits and shakes paws on command. I’ve read about agility for cats. Can you offer me more insight?
A Move over, Rover! Dogs don’t have a monopoly when it comes to demonstrating their athletic abilities in public. Agility is all about running an obstacle course in a timely fashion. This relatively young sport is starting to catch on across North America, especially among athletic cats with outgoing personalities. In general, Siamese cats do quite well in agility because of their intelligence and, dare we say, dog-like nature when it comes to learning.
Feline agility consists of a timed obstacle course. Cats compete one at a time in runs that include carpeted steps, weave poles, hoop jumps, tunnels, and hurdles of various heights. Some competitions also include ladders, tables, and ramps. Handlers motivate the cats by having them follow a lure or target through an obstacle course.
As you know from your canine competitions, accuracy is more crucial than speed. Competitors earn points for successfully conquering obstacles in a prescribed order. Your chances for winning decrease if your cat does not perform an obstacle or takes them out of order.
Some cats may be great agility athletes but prefer to be homebodies. If that describes Simone, you can create an indoor agility course for her by using household furnishings that include dining room chairs, tabletops, ottomans, and sturdy plastic boxes with lids. Be imaginative — you can use a hula hoop to act as a tire ring jump for your cat to leap through. Whether you travel to public competitions or just play in the privacy of your home, agility provides your cat with great exercise and a great chance to show off. Let the fun and games begin! (See Masters of the Ring, page 302, for more on agility.)
Q We love our cat, Polly. We named her that because she often perches on my husband’s shoulder like a parrot. A lot of our friends have two or more cats. Some remark that Polly has to be lonely being the only cat in the household. We think she is just fine. How can we tell if she is lonely or if she likes being an only pet?
A Please don’t be pressured by your well-intentioned friends to add another pet to your home. There’s nothing wrong with having a single cat. A lot of people enjoy having only one pet to lavish with attention and affection. The trick is finding the right cat and knowing the signs that indicate he or she is quite content without a feline pal.
My friend Debb has a two-year-old Siamese named Kri who rules the roost. Debb works long hours, but when she puts the key in her front door, Kri is there waiting with his favorite plush toy, Mr. Lion, in his mouth. Debb immediately greets Kri and plays with him for a few minutes before even taking off her coat.
When Debb travels, she arranges for Kri to stay at a friend’s house. This cat’s world revolves around one person and that is just perfectly fine with him. He doesn’t need or want feline companionship because he receives plenty of love and attention from Debb.
Some cats are better off being the one and only in the house. Likely contenders for single-cat status include older cats, those with sensitive health issues, those who are FIV-positive, those who are territorial, and those who are very shy or nervous. Cats who have been raised with littermates or who have lived happily with other cats are more likely to enjoy having a feline housemate.
Unlike dogs, solo cats rarely, if ever, display the classic signs of separation anxiety. You won’t find your home-alone cat clawing the front door or digging up the carpet — common behaviors exhibited by anxious canines. There are ways, however, that a cat who is overly attached to a person might demonstrate how they miss that person when he or she is away. These behaviors include grooming excessively, vocalizing, or urinating outside the litter box.
Just because Polly is your one and only pet doesn’t mean she has to be lonely or bored. Make sure you play with her each day and talk with her. Keep her indoor life enriched and exciting by swapping out her cat toys. You can provide Polly with puzzle or track toys, play animal videos on your television, and offer her climbing trees and/or an enclosed outdoor observation area. Two favorite ideas of mine are positioning a bird feeder outside within full view of a window your cat can see out of and adding a fish tank to your house. Just be kind to those fish by making sure the aquarium is fitted with a cat-proof lid.
Medically and emotionally, there are some pluses to having a one-cat household. You are able to spot health problems sooner. You tend to notice changes in your cat’s eating or litter box habits more quickly than your friends who have two or more cats. Noticing early warning signs can increase your chances for successful diagnosis and treatment.
Q Recently, my neighbor’s Japanese Bobtail became lost when a repairman left the back door open. We organized a neighborhood search for Jinx, and fortunately, we found him the next day hiding in shrubbery about three houses away. As an owner of two indoor cats, I worry about what would happen if they should suddenly find themselves outside. Why would contented indoor cats want to venture outside on their own? What tips can you offer for doing a thorough job of looking for them?
You’re in good company. All of us with indoor cats feel a bit nervous when we think about the possibility of our pampered pets facing the dangers of the outside world. As a young adult, I had a cat named Samantha who loved to hang out in my front yard with a light-
A weight chain attached to her collar. I always supervised her, but one time I dashed inside to answer the phone and when I came out five minutes later, she was gone! All that remained was her collar still attached to the chain. I called and searched for days but didn’t spot her for nearly two months, when she appeared on my neighbor’s porch. She needed veterinary care because she was dehydrated, but she survived and I felt fortunate to have her back.
Even contented feline homebodies possess natural hunting instincts and curiosity. The sights, sounds, and smells of the outdoors can prove to be far more alluring than simply sunning on the sofa. Cats think in the present. A door opens and the cat slips out. He doesn’t make contingency plans for what happens if forgets his way home. But we can better the chances of finding our cats if we recognize typical lost-cat behaviors.
Most indoor cats who slip out a door do not venture very far. Indoor cats tend to hide rather than flee because hiding is an instinctive response. That said, they can be darn good at hiding and extremely challenging to coax out of hard-to-reach spots.
Know your cat’s personality. That’s important because it will aid in finding him. You may be interested to learn that cats fall into four general personality types. Let me share with you the best game plan for finding each of these types.
XENOPHOBIC CATS are scared of anything new or the unknown. They tend to dash and hide when guests come into your home and refuse to resurface until hours after the guests depart. If they find themselves outside, these cats tend to freeze out of fear and do not go far. If you have such a cat who gets lost, the best plan is to set a baited humane trap near your home. Place a dish of tuna inside to lure your cat into the trap.
CAUTIOUS CATS initially disappear when guests come to your home, but then slowly enter the room to check out the newcomers. If your cat fits this description, then conduct a thorough search of surrounding homes and set baited humane traps in your neighbors’ yards. These cats, once they muster the courage, tend to come out of hiding after a day or so and try to retrace their steps back home. They may even meow while hiding if they hear your voice.
ALOOF CATS will avoid people they don’t know, including members of a search-and-rescue group. This type will eventually come out of hiding and either show up meowing at your door or start to travel. For these cats, the best plan is to set up baited humane traps throughout the neighborhood, while searching yards and other areas near where they escaped.
OUTGOING, CURIOUS CATS act like the ambassador to your home. They enjoy meeting and greeting your guests. If you have a cat that matches this description, be aware that he is likely to wander as he is not easily frightened. The best game plan with this type involves speaking with neighbors, because your cat may have charmed one of them into bringing him inside and feeding him.
When searching for your cat, resist running, because swift movement might frighten him and cause him to go into deeper hiding. Don’t simply ask neighbors to look around for your cat. Instead, ask if you can nose around under their decks and other hiding places. Your cat is more likely to come to you than to a stranger.
If you happen to have more than one indoor cat and they get along very well, consider putting the feline pal inside a carrier and taking her with you when you search the area. The scent of this cat may be enough to lure your lost cat out of hiding.
For any indoor cat who becomes lost, post brightly colored posters within a radius of several blocks. Make the posters eye-catching and include a photo of your cat, his name, your contact info, and perhaps a reward. And don’t forget other avenues such as contacting area veterinary clinics, local shelters, animal control, and police departments in your locale.
Let me offer one final strategy: if possible, leave a sliding door open four to six inches or a back door or garage door propped open a bit. Some cats wait until dark to come out of hiding and may come back home when they feel it is safe to do so. You may be relieved in the morning at the sight of your “lost” cat sitting next to her bowl waiting for breakfast.
Q My indoor cat, Chance, wears an identification tag on his collar. He never seems to want to go outside. My beagle, on the other hand, doesn’t always come when he is called. I spent the money on a micro-chip ID for the dog, but I don’t see the need to do the same for Chance. Am I wrong?
A Even though Chance loves the indoor life, he could find himself lost. We can’t control our cats’ movements every moment. He may become lost during a car trip, if a door is left open in your home, or under other circumstances.
The cost of microchipping is quite affordable these days and is totally priceless when it comes to reuniting lost pets with their grateful owners. Contact your veterinarian or local animal shelter to find out more about the procedure. Many clinics and shelters offer discount microchipping on certain days of the month or during special events.
Even though Chance sports an identification tag, he could lose his collar. That’s why I’m a big promoter of having pets microchipped. Microchipping does not automatically guarantee the safe return of your lost cat, but it sure increases the odds.
Microchipping is a quick and virtually painless procedure. Your cat does not need to be anesthetized. A veterinarian uses a special needle to insert the microchip (about the size of a grain of rice) under your cat’s skin between the shoulder blades. A cat found with no outward signs of identification can be scanned for the presence of a microchip using a special wand device commonly found in animal shelters and veterinary clinics. The microchip provides your contact information as well as your veterinary clinic and the manufacturer of the chip.
Sadly, about 40 percent of people who microchip their pets fail to take the final processing step. The chip is useless if it does not contain your contact info. Make sure you fill out the enrollment paperwork and mail it in (with a nominal one-time fee) to the manufacturer of the chip or a national recovery service. Enrollment should be kept updated if you move, and having a recovery service that is available 24 hours/7 days is the best protection.
Q My cat, Sissy, is quite curious and very mellow. I just moved into a nice, quiet neighborhood after living in an apartment with her for a couple years. I would like to take her for walks to give her a chance to be outside. I don’t want to risk losing her, so I want to teach her to walk on a leash. How can I go about this? Will she tolerate being on a leash?
A Your success in training your cat to walk on a leash outside depends first on your attitude. Trust me, cats can see through our bluffs. If you’re apprehensive or unsure about the process or become impatient, your cat will read the message loud and clear.
Second, heed this cardinal cat rule: When it comes to sauntering outside on a tether, cats call the shots. Don’t expect Sissy to start heeling like a poodle who just graduated top in her obedience training class. Sissy leads and you follow.
Third, a leash alone won’t do the trick. You need to fit Sissy with a harness so there is no chance that she could become spooked and slip out of a collar and get lost. Do not use a small dog harness. You need one designed for cats so there is no chance for her to squirm out. The best are the figure-eight designs and walking jackets.
Harness training is best accomplished in the following stages:
1. When you bring home the harness and leash, leave them next to Sissy’s food bowl or scratching post for a few days. Say nothing. Let her approach on her own to check them out.
2. When Sissy is in a relaxed, contented mood, engage her in a little play with the harness and leash. Dangle the harness and let her swat at it. Drag the leash on the floor to entice her to chase and pounce on it. You are associating these training tools with fun and games in your cat’s mind.
3. Next, put the harness on Sissy inside your house and offer lots of praise and a couple of treats. Let her walk around freely wearing it. If she struggles or tries to rub the harness off, calmly remove it and repeat Step Two before trying again. But if she seems okay, let her wear the harness for a few minutes and then take it off.
4. It’s time to attach the leash to your harness-wearing cat. Again, keep this stage indoors and monitor Sissy’s level of acceptance. Not all cats are fans of harnesses, and you have to respect their personal preferences.
5. Once she has accepted walking around the house wearing a harness, you’re ready to head outdoors. Limit your first outing to a safe haven such as your backyard or front porch. Remember, the goal is to build slowly on each success.
6. After a few days, you should be ready to head down your driveway and possibly a bit down the sidewalk. Pick quiet times in your neighborhood to limit possible distractions.
You want to make this a pleasant experience. Unless you have that rare cat who is eager to go for a long walk, keep your excursions short. If you live on a busy street, put your cat in a cat stroller and head for a quiet place like a park where she may feel more secure.
My cat Murphy is a proud harness-wearing, leash-walking feline. I think she gets a bit jealous when she sees me grab the leashes for my two dogs. But when I return, I often bring out her harness and leash and say, “Wanna go outside?” She races me to the front door. With the dogs, it is all about distance, but Murphy prefers a stroll with stops to smell flowers, flop and roll on the sun-kissed sidewalk, and nibble on a few blades of grass. We may not go far, but our brief jaunts prove to be filled with plenty of adventure for Murphy.
Q I absolutely dread having to take my cat for his regular veterinary visits. Even when I don’t do anything out of the ordinary, Oscar seems to sense when I am about to take him to the vet clinic and he hides under the bed. He often scratches me as I fight to pull him out. He howls all the way to the clinic and once there, he turns into Evil Kitty. It is quite difficult for my veterinarian to examine him. Oscar is a very healthy cat who lives inside. Can I just skip these visits? It seems more like torture than help.
A Most cats are not fans of the three C’s: Car, Carrier, and Clinic. Oscar definitely does not put any of these on his Top 10 List of Feline Favorites. Even though you think you are not doing anything to tip him off, Oscar is tapping into changes in your body chemicals (you are more anxious) and body language (your muscles are more tense). That’s all he needs to initiate the under-the-bed dash.
Some cats do well when they are cared for by veterinarians with feline-only practices, because there are none of those dreaded d-o-g-s hanging out in the lobby. But cats like Oscar would fare even better if they could be seen in their homes. By examining frightened, fearfully aggressive, and people-phobic cats on their own turf, visiting veterinarians are able to obtain more accurate health readings on their patients. For example, some cats display artificially elevated blood glucose levels and blood pressure values due to stress when examined at a clinic. House-call vets can also gather clues about a cat’s environment that may help in treating medical conditions. They get to see where the litter boxes are located and witness the interactions of the cat with other family pets.
House-call vets make sense for people who have three or more cats; forget about trying to bring that many cats all at once to the clinic. You are risking the chance of one escaping or your sanity being tested far more than it deserves. This way, you receive one-stop care instead of having to book multiple appointments.
Visiting vets are also the answer for people with busy schedules who have difficulty squeezing their cat’s appointment in between their children’s soccer and band practices; for people who can’t drive; for those who may have medical conditions of their own; and for celebrities who prefer not to be mobbed by autograph hounds at a veterinary clinic.
House-call fees are not as steep as you may imagine, but prices do vary by location. So save your arm from scratches and keep Oscar’s stress level from escalating by booking an appointment with a house-call vet. Check your local yellow pages for listings or look on the Internet.
Q I am moving to a new apartment in six months with Misha, my 11-year-old cat. I am wondering what I should be doing to make this move less stressful for her. She has had a history of urinary tract problems — all resolved — and with that came a habit of over-grooming to the point of pulling out her hair. She is alone all day, but I do play with her at night. I would refer to her as a bit high-strung. Any advice on how to make this move go smoothly for her?
A Moving is stressful for everyone. Cats detest breaks in their routines. The sight of furniture being moved, items being packed, and strange men coming in and out of their feline “castle” can take a toll on their self-confidence and trigger some unwanted behaviors (like hiding, not eating, or inappropriate urination).
Cats are also territorial. They don’t like to vacate their home turfs, and in strange new places, they feel insecure and stressed by new sounds, smells, and the quest to find safety zones.
You mention that Misha is a bit high-strung. Since moving takes a toll on all members of the household, you will be feeling the stress as well, and she will be detecting your signs of tension. If you are uptight, then she may surmise that something is terribly wrong.
Fortunately, you can do a lot to prepare Misha for your move and the new apartment. The most important step is to introduce her to feeling safe inside a carrier long before moving day. Start by leaving the carrier where Misha likes to catnap. Make it tempting by placing a comfy blanket inside and leaving the door open. Sprinkle some catnip inside if she likes the scent. You are creating good associations with the carrier.
Once Misha seems comfortable in the carrier, shut her in it and take her out to your car. Just hang out with her for a few minutes without turning on the ignition. Gradually work up to taking her on short car rides.
As moving day approaches, try to stick to as regular a routine as possible. Strange as it sounds, tell Misha about the move and what is happening. Use an upbeat, positive tone. True, she won’t know your words, but she will read your mood and posture. Let her sniff and explore packing boxes, tape, and other moving supplies.
I recommend that both you and Misha take a calming herbal blend called Rescue Remedy. This over-the-counter blend of essential botanical oils is available at pet supply stores and health stores. It is not toxic or addictive. Place a dropperful in a glass of water for you and rub a few drops in the tip of Misha’s ears (it enters her body through the tiny capillaries in the ears). Some cats may require a calming prescriptive medicine — check with your veterinarian.
If possible, mail a T-shirt that you have worn but not washed to the new location. Yes, this is a strange request, but realtors are used to expecting anything. Request that the realtor or landlord rub the shirt across the baseboards of your new apartment to provide a dejà vu scent to your soon-to-arrive Misha.
During moving day, keep Misha in her carrier in an emptied room and post a big sign alerting the movers not to open this door, because there is a cat inside. You might consider having her spend that day at a cat-friendly boarding facility or at a friend’s house where she can have a room to herself.
As you settle into your new place, keep Misha confined in one room with all her amenities (food and water bowls, litter box, bedding, toys). Leave her carrier with her so she can hide in it if she wants. Maybe play a little music to muffle the sounds of unpacking. Let her become comfortable exploring this room for a day or so before you introduce her to other rooms in the apartment.
These strategies help all cats, including high-strung ones like Misha, feel right at home in their new places. Good luck!
FELINE AGILITY, the Cat Fanciers’ Association’s newest and most fascinating activity, has taken off in the United States, Japan, and Europe. While similar in concept to dog agility, there are some distinct differences. When the cat enters the ring with the handler, he is given time to investigate the surroundings and equipment. When his tail goes up, it is the sign he is ready. The ringmaster starts the clock as the handler encourages the cat with a wand, toy, or laser beam to climb stairs and catwalks, to run through hoops and tunnels, and to weave poles as fast as possible.
Pedigreed cats, random-bred household pets, and cats adopted from shelters are all welcome. Watching how cats react to agility has provided unexpected insights into behavioral differences and breed traits.
For example, Abyssinians, a highly active and responsive breed, are “naturals” in the agility arena. They follow the teaser and are capable of running fast, but often lose time because they are too aware. An Aby will stop to look at someone in the audience.
Japanese Bobtails rank as another of the top agility breeds. At a recent show held at Madison Square Garden in New York City, a six-month-old Bobtail ran the course in 17 seconds. This active breed tends to be extremely responsive to the teaser but can become bored. Exhibitors have learned to skip the allowed practice session and go right into competition.
Among the best competitors are Turkish Vans. These powerful, large, longhaired cats are disciplined and they don’t miss an obstacle. Maine Coons will finish the course but tend to be slow. They are a thinking breed and sometimes pause, perhaps to wonder what might be in the tunnel before they enter.
Siamese and the Oriental breeds are easily distracted. They react to the teaser and can run fast, but may wander off and sit. They are simply not motivated to finish anything in a particular hurry. Cornish Rex cats also tend to be flighty and inconsistent but can be fast when they choose to be.
Persian kittens are amusing to watch in the agility ring. Typically unafraid and rarely distracted, they concentrate intently on the lure, go through the tunnel, and jump over hurdles. Adult Persians, though, are not as fast as other breeds. They may pose at the top of the stairs, allowing all to see their beauty.
Contributed by Joan Miller, all-breed judge
Q My husband is completing his medical internship in Boston. When he finishes, we plan to travel by car across the country to live in Seattle. I’m worried about how my cat, Lucy, will handle the long ride. She loves to chat and demands our attention when we’re home. She has ridden in the car inside her carrier to the veterinary clinic and other local trips. Sometimes she meows and other times she is quiet. The thought of spending so many days in a car with Lucy makes me nervous, but we want to see a bit of the country. Any advice?
A A cross-country road trip with a cat will definitely test your patience. If all goes well, however, Lucy could become the poster cat for AAA by the time you reach Seattle.
I know what you are going through, having transported two cats by car from south Florida to eastern Pennsylvania several years ago. Little Guy and Callie rode in separate carriers in the back, with each carrier secured in place with a seat belt. Callie acted like a feline mime, but Little Guy began the journey howling like a singer trying to set a world’s record for belting out tunes. My ears! By day two, I wised up and gave Little Guy some Rescue Remedy, a natural blend of essential oils that calmed him down to the point that he only released sporadic mews for the rest of the ride.
Let’s look at this trip from Lucy’s point of view. A car ride is full of scary or unfamiliar sounds like honking, hissing from the air conditioner or heater, and a blaring stereo. Cooped up inside a carrier, which is the safest way to ride, she has no clue whether she is coming or going — she can’t look out the window, and she certainly doesn’t know how to read a road map. The vibration from the road and the swaying of the vehicle is unsettling and might even make her ill. At night, she’ll be carted into yet another unfamiliar hotel room and expected to settle down and go to sleep.
Then there is the issue of bathroom breaks. I fitted each of my cat carriers with a mini litter box. They relied on their balance and agility to use them, even at 65 miles per hour or on a curvy road.
It’s good that Lucy has made some trips with you in which the final destination was not the veterinary clinic. She needs to develop some positive associations with being placed in a carrier inside your car. I encourage you to continue taking these fun getaway trips with her to build up her “mileage” of enjoyable travels.
Please do not be tempted to coddle Lucy by taking her out of her carrier and letting her sit on your lap during the trip. The best place for a cat to ride in a moving vehicle is inside a carrier. When cats become scared, their first thought is to seek a place to hide — like underneath the brake pedal or car seats. That spells d-a-n-g-e-r!
Don’t be too alarmed if Lucy doesn’t eliminate or eat until you reach your hotel each night. Once she calms down from the ride, she will be more inclined to use the litter box, eat, and drink.
Do not leave Lucy in the car when you go to dine at a sit-down restaurant, especially during extremely hot or cold weather. It takes only a few minutes for a cat to become sick, even die, from heat stroke. Seek out places that will allow you to bring her along inside her carrier, such as outdoor cafes.
Be sure to give Lucy lots of therapeutic massages and cuddles each night at your hotel. These will help convey to her that even though she is on the road, she is traveling with two people who love her and make her feel safe.
If your cat has a tendency to become sick and vomit when in the car, consult your veterinarian about appropriate anti-nausea medication that could make the trip easier on both of you.
Before you hit the road with your cat, stock your car with the following supplies:
A well-ventilated cat carrier with an easy-to-clean floor pad
Bottled water and a no-spill bowl
Dry food, small bowl, and treats
Favorite toys
Comfy, familiar blanket
A leash and a spare collar and ID tags with a reachable phone number
Cat first-aid kit
Travel litter box, litter, and cleaning supplies
Nonprescription calming medicine such as Rescue Remedy
Photo of your cat in case she gets lost
Medical records of your cat
Paper towel rolls and plastic bags
Q We’re planning a three-week European vacation next summer with my entire family, including my parents, my husband, and our children. We all are excited about this trip, but we are debating whether to board our two cats or to hire a pet sitter to take care of them. With all of us traveling together, we don’t have our normal cat sitters. Either option is expensive, but we don’t want to worry about them when we’re gone. Bonnie and Clyde are siblings, about four years old, who are very bonded with each other. They are basically indoor cats and have traveled with us for weekend visits at my parents’ home without much fuss. Which option would work out best for them?
A You won’t find many cats packing passports. Home is where the feline heart is. If they were people, some cats would be labeled agoraphobic. Because your cats would probably choose to stay home, the pet-sitting option is definitely worth considering. The main benefit of pet sitting is that Bonnie and Clyde are able to stay put with all their “creature comforts.” Even though your absence will upset their normal routine, they will be surrounded by familiar scents and will be comforted by being on their own turf.
Like pet resorts, pet sitting is a booming industry. I recommend interviewing professional sitters who are licensed and bonded and belong to a national organization such as Pet Sitters International or the National Association of Professional Pet Sitters. Pet sitters are trained to feed your cat, administer medications, and scoop the litter boxes. They also are available to water your plants, make sure your windows and doors are locked, take in the newspaper and mail, and even take out the trash.
The downside is that pet sitters tend to be busy people. They typically make one or two visits a day to your home. If a medical problem or other mishap should happen to Bonnie or Clyde, it might be 24 hours before someone could respond.
If you are fortunate enough to have a trusted friend, relative, or neighbor who is willing to step in and kitty-sit, this is also an option. I am less keen about hiring college students or others who are not professionally trained as pet sitters. Their motivation is money, and they may not put your cats’ needs as a priority, not out of meanness but from not knowing feline needs. Always provide a written list of instructions on how to care for your cats and what to do in case of a medical emergency.
Now let’s consider the boarding option. In addition to the traditional veterinary clinic boarding, there is an increasing array of specialty kennels that cater to your pet’s every whim. Instead of going to the dogs, these places are going to the cats. Some places look like mini-condos, complete with a television set, piped-in music, plush bedding, two levels, window perches, and other cat amenities. At last count, there were more than 9,000 boarding kennels in North America, and that number is rapidly growing as more folks are traveling — and as more people are willing to spend serious money on fancy boarding facilities for their pets.
If you decide to board Bonnie and Clyde, look for cat-only kennels, especially if your cats have not had a lot of whisker-to-whisker time with dogs. A feline environment will be more soothing to your cats, without all that barking, whining, and howling. It’s important that you visit the places before booking, rather than relying on ads or information collected over the phone from the kennel staff.
When you visit, pay attention to how the staff interact with their feline guests. You definitely want “cat people” who will cuddle and call your cats by their names. Ask what the ratio of staff to cats is, if the place is staffed 24 hours a day, and if there is a veterinarian on call to handle medical emergencies. The kennel should be clean, and you should not detect any odors. Take a careful look at the feline guests and determine if they look content or act edgy or scared. And don’t forget to arrange for Bonnie and Clyde to share a run. Since they are close companions, staying together will help ease the distress of being away from home.
Since your trip won’t occur for several months, I encourage you to take a test run by booking Bonnie and Clyde for a night or two at a kennel. If they appear totally stressed out when you pick them up, that’s a sign that the kennel life, even at a fancy feline resort, is not for them.
So, what’s my vote? That’s a tough call. Try the boarding for a couple of days, wait a week or so, and then the next time you plan to see your folks for a weekend, leave Bonnie and Clyde with a pet sitter and see how they do. You should be able to tell from their behavior which option makes the most sense for your duo. With names like Bonnie and Clyde, you want to keep them happy!
