*O1d Peter Taugwalder was not quite the lunatic Whymper would have liked his readers to think. He subsequently left to make a living in America and returned to Zermatt where he died in 1888.

**Young Peter later became a capable and respected guide and was alive in 1917 to tell his story of the Matterhorn climb. He loathed Whymper but, interestingly, accused Hudson and Douglas for the disaster. Of the former he wrote that Old Peter had suggested they split into two parties, each with their own guides, but ‘this did not appeal to Mr. Hudson, who modestly thought he and his companions were all better than guides’.²⁸ Of Douglas his comment was that ‘He was not a good climber.’²⁹