INDEX

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accidents: Col de Balme, 87

Le Buet, 87

Mer de Glace, 131

Col du Géant (1860), 184

Matterhorn (1865), 275–7; 1866–76, 296

Mont Blanc (1870), 297–8;

Eigerwand (1935), 348–54;

Eigerwand (1936), 351–4; see also avalanches

Adams–Reilly, Anthony: maps the Alpine region, 246, 247

on Whymper’s various climbs (1864), 247–8;

Whymper’s opinion of, 248

reluctant to attempt the Matterhorn, 253

Aeigisschorn: conquered by Tyndall (1861), 201

Agassiz, Louis: early career, 112–113;

theory of glaciers, 114, 122–3, 124

study of Unteraar glacier (1840–45), 114–16;

expedition to the Jungfrau (1841), 119–122;

visit to Britain, 122

witnesses creation of a crevasse (1842), 123

tires of Alpine exploration, 124–5;

retires to America (1846), 125, 133–4;

dispute with Forbes on discovery of ice layers, 129–30;

theory of glaciers refuted by Forbes, 132–3;

death (1873), 331

Aiguille d’Argentière: Whymper’s attempts on (1864), 247–8

Aiguille Blaitière: Ruskin’s visit to, 142

Aiguille de Péclet: conquered by Coolidge (1878), 317–18

Aiguille de Trélatête: conquered by Whymper (1864), 248

Aiguille Verte: conquered by Whymper (1865), 263–4

Ailefroide: conquered by Coolidge (1870), 307

Aletsch glacier, 201

Allmen, Albert von, 352

Aimer, Christian: on Wills’s Wetterhorn climb (1854), 166–9;

character, 240

on Whymper’s Pointe des Ecrins climb (1864), 243

makes leap on Pointe des Ecrins, 244, 334, 335

on Whymper’s various climbs (1864), 247

on Whymper’s crossing of the Morning Pass (1864), 249

on Whymper’s various climbs (1865), 261–2, 263

becomes guide to the Coolidges, 304

on Coolidge’s Meije climb (1878), 314–15;

publication of his führerbuch, 333

alpenstocks, 183

Alpine Club: formation suggested by Mathews and Hort, 170

inauguration (1857), 172

qualifications for membership, 172

publishes Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers (1859), 173, 175

abhors trade in Mont Blanc relics, 190

Tyndall’s uneasy relationship with, 211–12;

criticised following Matterhorn accident, 292–3, 294–5;

encouragement of mountaineers, 319

refusal to elect women, 320–1;

condemns attempts on Eigerwand, 356

Alpine Journal: first edition of (1864), 206, 207

Coolidge’s editorship, 317

condemns Sedlemayer/Mehringer attempt on Eigerwand, 350

reports on conquest of Eigerwand, 359

Alps: extent, 1–2;

height, 2

characteristics, 4, 12

origin of name, 4

Hannibal’s crossing (218 BC), 4–5;

mythology, 6–7, 10, 16

Scheuchzer’s study (1723), 8–10;

early scientific experiments, 24

tourism in eighteenth century, 73–4, 74, 76

guidebooks, 85, 107

tourism in nineteenth century, 85–6, 97–99, 107–11;

geological investigations in nineteenth century, 111–25;

ice exported from, 324–5;

development of railways, 325

development of sanatoriums, 326–28;

development of winter sports, 328–9;

tourism in twentieth century, 329–30;

grading of rock climbs, 343–4

Anderegg, Melchior, 241–2, 323

Andermatten, Franz (Alpine guide): favourite expression, 195

on Tyndall’s Old Weissthor climb (1861), 202

assists in rescue mission on the Matterhorn (1865), 278

Angerer, Willy: killed attempting Eigerwand (1936), 350–4

Annecy, Bishop of: exorcises glaciers of Mont Blanc (1690), 3

Annecy, Bishop Rendu of: pre–empts Forbes’s theory of glacial movement (1838), 133

Aosta (village in Piedmont): prevalence of goitres and cretinism, 30

Arbuthnot, Mrs: killed by lightning, 108

Arnold, Matthew: becomes member of Alpine Club, 173

‘The Ascent of Mont Blanc’ (show by Albert Smith), 157–8

Atkins, H.M.: conquers Mont Blanc (1837), 107

Atkinson, Thomas: becomes member of Alpine Club, 173

Auldjo, John, 144, 172: conquers Mont Blanc (1827), 106

attitude to scientific experimentation, 107

avalanches: causes, 90

Pleurs (1618), 89

Goldau (1806), 89

Bagnes (1818), 89–90;

Randa (1819), 90

Mont Blanc (1820), 92–3;

John Forbes’s description of (1848), 145

Haut de Cry (1864), 253–6;

Piz Morterasch (1864), 256–9;

Schneehorn (1936), 350 see also accidents

Badrutt, Johannes, 328

Bagnes: avalanche (1818), 89–90

Ball, John: becomes first president of Alpine Club, 172

edits Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers (1859), 173

resigns presidency of Alpine Club (1860), 211

Balmat, Auguste: helps Forbes chart Mer de Glace, 130

rescues tourist on Mer de Glace, 131

on Wills’s Wetterhorn climb (1854), 164–9;

on Tyndall’s Mont Blanc climb (1858), 181

speaks at British Museum meeting (1861), 188

Balmat, Dominique, 61

Balmat, Jacques: character, 81

unsuccessful attempts on Mont Blanc, 39–42;

conquers Mont Blanc with Paccard (1786), 38, 42–7;

quarrels with Paccard, 49

receives Saussure reward, 49

conquers Mont Blanc (1787), 52

on Saussure’s expedition to Col du Géant (1788), 64, 68

on Marie Paradis’s Mont Blanc climb (1809), 77–8;

love of money, 80–1;

death (1834), 82

Balmat, Pierre: dies in Mont Blanc avalanche (1820), 92

Banks, Joseph, 60

opinion of Forbes’s Travels, 137–8

Barrington, Charles, viii

Barrow, John, 82, 84, 101, 175

Barry, Dr Martin: conquers Mont Blanc (1834), 107

Baumann, Hans and Peter, 307

Bean, Dr J.: killed in Mont Blanc snowstorm (1870), 297–8

Beaufoy, Mark, 60, 187

Beckford, William, 72–3

Bel Alp, 201

Bennen, Johann (Alpine guide): Tyndall’s description of, 193–4;

Hawkins’s description of, 194

character, 194–5;

on Tyndall and Hawkins’s Matterhorn climb (1860), 196–199;

on Tyndall’s Old Weissthor climb (1861), 201, 202

on Tyndall’s Weisshorn climb (1861), 202–5;

on Tyndall’s Matterhorn climb (1862), 228, 231, 232

killed in accident on Haut de Cry (1864), 253–6

Bergkameraden (’mountain warriors’), 346, 347

Bernese Oberland (Swiss canton), 69, 94:

Unteraar glacier, 114, 115, 122

Beverley, William: stage illustrations for Smith’s shows, 149, 158

Bex: glacier, 113, 114

Biener, Franz: on Whymper’s various climbs (1865), 261–2, 263

Birkbeck, John, 262, 268, 270

Blackwood’s Magazine: review of Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers, 175, 176

review of Scrambles amongst the Alps, 294

Blair’s Cabin (Chateau de Folie), 79, 130, 147

Blunt, Wilfred Scawen: becomes member of Alpine Club, 173

Bohren, Peter: on Wills’s Wetterhorn climb (1854), 164–9

Boileau de Castelnau, Emmanuel: early life and mountaineering triumphs, 312–13;

failed attempt on the Meije (1877), 311

conquers the Meije (1877), 313

Boissier, Albertine Amélie (wife of Saussure): character, 26

climbing expeditions, 52

Boissonnet (French mountaineer): in Haut de Cry avalanche (1864), 253, 254, 255

Bonney, T.G.: description of the Dauphiné, 300

Bossons (glacier), 43, 54, 74, 142

Bourrit, Marc-Theodore: appearance and character, 17–18, 20–1;

fascination with Alps, 18–19;

climbs Le Buet (1775), 19

visited by Prince Henry of Prussia, 20

meeting with Baron de Frenilly (1787), 21

describes climbing expeditions, 31

attitude to Alpine exploration, 31–2, 75

attempts on Mont Blanc (1783 and 1784), 32–4;

attempt on Mont Blanc (1785), 34–6;

criticises Saussure’s climbing ability, 36

jealousy of Paccard, 47

account of Paccard and Balmat’s conquest of Mont Blanc, 47–8;

continuing disappointments, 60

conquers Mont Blanc (1788), 60–1;

traverses Col du Géant (1787), 62–3;

leads tours on Mer de Glace, 76

creates shelter on the Montenvers, 78–79;

death (1819), 80

Bouterweck, Friedrich: visit to Lauterbrunnen (1794), 73

Brahms, Johannes, 259

Brèche de la Meije: conquered by Whymper (1864), 241–2

Bremble, Master John de: account of Alpine crossing (1188), 4–5

Brévent (mountain): climbed by Saussure, 15

climbed by Clissold (1822), 94

Brevoort, Meta, 320

first visit to the Alps, 302

interviews Whymper’s chambermaid, 303

begins climbing, 303–4;

decides to conquer the Meije, 305

conquers central peak of the Meije (1870), 306–7;

opinion of Tyndall and his wife, 309

death (1876), 310

Bristenstock: Kennedy’s description of ascent of, 173–5

Brockedon, William: account of morgue at Great St Bernard Pass, 88–9;

opinion of English tourists, 99

Brougham, Lord: impressions of Switzerland (1816), 85

Browne, Dr G.F., 341

Buch, Leopold von, 114

Bulwer, James Benjamin Redfoord, 208

Burton, Richard: becomes member of Alpine Club, 173

Butler, Samuel, 323

Byron, Lord: impressions of the Alps, 83

views on tourism, 86

Cachat, Jean–Michel, 52

Campbell, Mr and Miss: climb Col du Géant (1822), 96

Carrel, César: on Tyndall and Hawkins’s Matterhorn climb (1860), 196–199;

on Tyndall’s Matterhorn climb (1862), 228, 231, 232

on Whymper’s Matterhorn climb (1863), 237

conquers the Matterhorn (1865), 285–6

Carrel, Jean-Antoine (cousin of César Carrel): on Whymper’s Matterhorn climbs (1862), 221, 226

on Tyndall’s Matterhorn climb (1862), 228, 231, 232

on Whymper’s Matterhorn climb (1863), 237

Carrier, Pierre: dies in Mont Blanc avalanche (1820), 92

Caverne de Balmes, 16–17, 32

Chaix, Professor: opinion of Forbes, 133

opinion of Forbes’s Travels, 137

topographical survey of Alps, 138, 176

Chamonix: Pococke and Windham’s visit to (1741), 10–11;

Saussure’s visits to, 14–16;

tourism to, 74

Charles VII of France: orders his chamberlain to climb Mont Aiguille (1492), 5

Charpentier, Jean de, 113, 114

Chateaubriand, Vicomte de: account of visit to the Alps (1805), 74–5

Clark, Ronald, ix; views on Ruskin, 144

Clarke, Dr Edmund: conquers Mont Blanc (1825), 97

Clissold, Frederick: climbs the Brévent (1822), 94

conquers Mont Blanc (1822), 95–6

Cloncurry, Lord, 72–3

Col de Balme: accidents, 87

Col Dolent: traversed by Whymper (1865), 263

Col de Forclaz: Whymper’s opinion of, 249–50

Col du Géant: climbed by Exchaquet (1787), 62, 63

traversed by Bourrit (1787), 62–3;

Saussure’s expedition to (1788), 63–9;

climbed by Mr and Miss Campbell (1822), 96

three climbers killed on (1860), 184

Col d’Hérens: conquered by Whymper (1865), 262

Col d’Oren: crossed by Whymper (1865), 264

Col de Pilatte: conquered by Whymper (1864), 245–6

Col de Taléfre: traversed by Whymper (1865), 264

Col de Triolet: Whymper and party first to cross (1864), 249

Col de Valvournera: crossed by Whymper (1865), 264

Coleridge, Samuel Taylor: poem ‘Hymn before Sunrise in the Vale of Chamouni’ (1802), 76

Compagnie des Guides: founded (1823), 96–7

Conway, Sir Martin: Alpine expeditions, 321–2, 323

retires from mountaineering, 331

becomes president of Alpine Club (1905), 337

relates story of Matterhorn disaster of 1865, 341

Cook, Captain James, 60

Cook, Thomas: tours to the Alps, 296

Coolidge, William: first visit to the Alps, 302

begins climbing, 303–4;

decides to conquer the Meije, 305

conquers central peak of the Meije (1870), 307–8;

conquers Ailefroide (1870), 307

tour of the Dolomites (1876), 310

becomes Fellow of Magdalene College, Oxford (1876), 310

reaction to the death of Meta Brevoort, 311

failed attempt on the Meije (1877), 311

conquers the Meije (1878), 314–15;

writings, 316

editorship of Alpine Journal, 317

conquers Aiguille de Péclet, 317–18;

character, 318

enmity towards Sir Edward Davidson, 333

argument with Whymper, 334–7;

suffers heart attack (1908), 339

meeting with Whymper (1911), 339

decline, 340–1;

relates story of Matterhorn disaster of 1865, 341–2;

death (1926), 342

Cordier (French mountaineer), 308, 311, 314

Coulon, Henri, 115

Courmayeur, 62, 68, 69

Couttet, François: on Whymper’s various climbs (1864), 247, 248

Couttet, Jean–Claude, 33

Couttet, Joseph-Marie: on Hamel’s Mont Blanc climb (1820), 91, 92, 93, 94

on Clissold’s Mont Blanc climb (1822), 94, 95

on Ruskin’s Le Buet climb (1844), 140

identifies corpses from Hamel’s 1820 climb, 189–90

crampons, 183

Cresta Run, 329

cretinism: prevalence in Alpine villages, 30, 84, 324

crevasses: Agassiz witnesses creation of (1842), 123

Croz, Michel: Whymper’s opinion of, 240–1;

on Whymper’s various climbs (1864), 247, 248

on Whymper’s crossing of the Moming Pass (1864), 249, 251

on Whymper’s various climbs (1865), 261–2;

on Whymper’s Matterhorn climb (1865), 268, 271, 272

killed during descent, 275

body recovered, 278

D’Angeville, Countess Henriette, 320

conquers Mont Blanc (1838), 107, 147

Darwin, Charles: regard for Agassiz’s theory of glaciers, 122

Dauphiné: Forbes’s exploration of, 134–5, 137

description of, 300

Davidson, Sir Edward: praises Carrel’s conquest of the Matterhorn, 286

enmity towards Coolidge, 333–4, 337

Davos: development as a resort, 326, 327, 328

De Beer, G., ix

De Luc, Jean-André and Guillaume-Antoine: scientific experiments at Le Buet (1765–70), 21–3;

theories of rock formation, 112

Dent Blanche: conquered by Whymper (1865), 262

Lochmatter killed on, 299

Dent d’Hérens: Whymper’s failed attempt on (1863), 236

conquered by MacDonald four days later, 237

Desor, Edouard: assists Agassiz in study of glaciers, 114–15, 116

on Forbes’s expedition to the Jungfrau, 120, 121

conquers Lauteraarhorn (1842), 124

climbs in 1843, 125

denigrated by Forbes, 129

Desportes (French resident at Geneva), 79, 80

Devassoud, Julien: account of Mont Blanc avalanche (1820), 92–3;

at 1861 inquest, 189

Deville, Marie, 113

Dickens, Charles: criticises mountaineering following Matterhorn accident, 292

dilatation theory of glaciers, 122, 136

Forbes’s rejection of, 132

Dodgson, Revd Charles (Lewis Carroll), 312

Dolomites: Coolidge’s tour of (1876), 310

Dôme du Goûter, 39, 40, 44, 47, 53, 55

Doorthesen (German mountaineer): failed attempt on Mont Blanc (1802), 77

Dornford, Joseph: on Hamel’s Mont Blanc climb (1820), 90, 91, 93, 94

opposed to use of ropes, 184

Douglas, Lord Francis: early exploits, 267–8;

on Whymper’s Matterhorn climb (1865), 268

killed during descent, 275

Duhamel (French mountaineer), 308, 310, 311,314

Dumas, Alexandre: account of Paccard and Balmat’s conquest of Mont Blanc, 42–7;

visit to the Alps (1832), 109–10

Eastlake, Lady: condemns Ruskin’s Modern Painters, 143

Eiger, 70: north face conquered (1932), 347

Eigerwand (Eiger Wall): failed attempt by Sedlemayer and Mehringer (1935), 348–50;

failed attempt by Austrian/German team (1936), 351–4;

reaction of the press, 354

bodies recovered, 355

failed attempt by Primas and Gollacher (1937), 355–6;

failed attempt by Sandri and Menti (1938), 356

conquered by Heckmair and others (1938), 357

Elliott, Revd J.M.: described by Gautier, 299

Ellis, Mr (English mountaineer): conquers Finsteraarhorn (1857), 171

Emerson, Ralph Waldo, 139–40

Engel, Marie Claire, ix

English tourists, 108–9;

opinions on, 98–100

erratic rocks, 111, 112, 113

Eschen (mountaineer): death on Le Buet, 87

Escher (mountaineer): death on Col de Balme, 87

Evian (spa), 72

Evolena (village): Forbes finds inhabitants unfriendly, 135

Exchaquet (mountaineer): climbs Col du Géant (1787), 62, 63

visits Saussure’s expedition to Col du Géant (1788), 64

makes wooden models of Mont Blanc, 77, 137

Faraday, Michael: visits Agassiz, 116

letter from Tyndall, 179–80

Fellows, Sir Charles: conquers Mont Blanc (1827), 100–4;

later career, 105

Finsteraarhorn, 115, 118, 124, 171

Forbes, James: character and early career, 126–7;

visits Agassiz (1841), 115–16, 117–18;

expedition to the Jungfrau (1841), 119–22;

low opinion of Alpine tourists, 127–8;

low opinion of scientists, 128

dispute with Agassiz on discovery of ice layers, 129–30;

study of Mer de Glace (1842), 130–1;

publishes Travels through the Alps of Savoy (1843), 131–2;

ill-health, 133

exploration of Dauphiné, 134–5, 137

theory of glaciers, 135

fear of rockfalls, 136

discovers corpses, 136

book causes stir, 136–8;

dispute with Tyndall on theory of glaciers, 178–9;

predicts discovery of corpses from Hamel’s 1820 expedition, 188

death (1868), 331

Forbes, John (doctor to Queen Victoria): witnesses avalanche (1848), 145

Forneret (mountaineer): failed attempt on Mont Blanc (1802), 77

fossil fishes, 113

Fox, Charles James, 72

Franklin, Sir John, 156, 332

Frenilly, Baron de: meeting with Bourrit (1787), 21

Freshfield, Douglas, ix;

watches Smith’s ‘The Ascent of Mont Blanc’, 159

involvement in Coolidge/Whymper argument, 336, 337

Gardiner, Frederick, 318, 341

Gaskell, Elizabeth, 259

Gaspard, Pierre, 311

Gautier, Théophile: description of Elliott, 299

Géant, Cachat le: on Bourrit’s Mont Blanc climb (1788), 61

Geneva: suicides in eighteenth century, 13

character, 14

Geological Society of London, 140

geology (Alpine): studies in nineteenth century, 111–25

German and Austrian Alpine Club, 346–7

Germany: Nazi exaltation of Bergkameraden, 348

Gesner, Conrad: decides to climb Alps (1541), 1

climbs Mount Pilatus (1555), 7–8

Giordano, Felice: failed attempt on the Matterhorn (1865), 265–6, 271, 272

downcast by Whymper’s conquest, 285

Girdlestone, Revd A., 267, 345

Glacier de Bionnassay, 33

glaciers: Saussure’s theory of, 28–9;

nineteenth-century theories of, 111–12;

Agassiz’s theory of, 114, 115–16, 122–3, 124

Forbes’s theory of, 131–3, 135

Forbes’s theory pre-empted by Bishop of Annecy, 133

glissading, 103

goitres: prevalence in Alpine villages, 30, 84, 324

Goldau (village): avalanche (1806), 89

Golden Age of Mountaineering, 163–4, 291

Gollacher, Albert: killed attempting Eigerwand (1937), 355

Gorani, Count Joseph, 73

Gos, Charles, 341

Gosse, H. A., 32

Gossett (English mountaineer): in Haut de Cry avalanche (1864), 253, 254, 255, 256

Gotsch, Henry: failed attempt on the Meije (1876), 308

on Alpine mythology, 313

Grand Cornier: conquered by Whymper (1865), 262

Grand Plateau (glacier), 41, 42, 53, 55, 61, 78, 91, 102, 148, 154

Grands Mulets, 39, 43, 61, 77, 91, 102, 153, 154

hut built on (1853–54), 160

grapnels: invented by Whymper, 223

Great St Bernard Hospice, 3

Great St Bernard Pass, 76, 111

morgue described by William Brockedon, 88

Grindelwald (village), 69, 94

Guggenbuhl, Dr, 327n

Guillemin, Paul (French mountaineer), 311, 314

Guyot, Arnold, 129

Hadow, Douglas: on Whymper’s Matterhorn climb (1865), 269, 270, 271

killed during descent, 275

body recovered, 278

Haller, Albrecht von: poem Die Alpen (1732), 12

Hamel, Dr: expedition to Mont Blanc ends in avalanche (1820), 87, 90, 92, 93

causes commotion at British Museum meeting (1861), 188

Hanbury, Charlotte (first wife of Edward Whymper), 338

Hannibal: crosses the Alps (218 BC), 4

Hardy, Revd J.F.: conquers Finsteraarhorn (1857), 171

Harrer, Heinrich: conquers Eigerwand with others (1938), 357

account of climb, 358, 359, 361

Haut de Cry: Bennen killed in avalanche (1864), 253–6

Hawes, William: on Fellows’s Mont Blanc climb (1827), 100–4;

publishes account of the climb, 105

Hawkins, Vaughan, 193: description of Johann Bennen, 194

description of the Matterhorn, 196

failed attempt on the Matterhorn (1860), 196–199

Hawkins-Whitshed, Elizabeth, 321

Heckmair, Anderl, 356: conquers Eigerwand with others (1938), 358

Henderson, Gilbert: on Hamel’s Mont Blanc climb (1820), 90, 91, 93, 94

Henry, Prince of Prussia: visits Bourrit, 20

Herbst, Albert: survives Schneehorn avalanche (1936), 350

Hinchliff, Thomas, 187,215

Hinterstoisser, Andreas: killed attempting Eigerwand (1936), 351–5

Holland, Philemon, 4

Hort, Revd Fenton John Anthony, 170, 171

Hudson, Revd Charles, 192

character, 268–9;

on Whymper’s Matterhorn climb (1865), 270

killed during descent, 275

body recovered, 278

Hudson, Emily (wife of Charles), 285

Humboldt, Baron Alexander von, 113, 129

Hurzeler, Albert, 340

Hutchinson (English mountaineer): in Piz Morterasch avalanche (1864), 256, 258

Huxley, T.H.: on Tyndall’s Alpine expedition (1856), 178, 179

opinion of Tyndall, 182

ice: exported from the Alps, 324—5

Illustrated London News: criticises mountaineering following Matterhorn accident, 291

Imseng, Abbot, viii

Irving, R.: antipathy towards dangerous climbing, 345

Jackson, H.H.: conquers Mont Blanc (1823), 96

Janssen, Dr: builds observatory on Mont Blanc, 323

Jenni (Alpine guide): in Piz Morterasch avalanche (1864), 256, 257–8

Jerrold, Douglas, 150

Journal Illustré: criticises mountaineering following Matterhorn accident, 292

Jungfrau, 69, 115, 118

Agassiz and Forbes’s expedition to (1841), 119–22

Kasparek, Fritz: conquers Eigerwand with others (1938), 357

Kaufmann, Ulrich: joins Wills on Wetterhorn climb, 166–9

Kennedy, Edward Shirley: role in foundation of Alpine Club, 171–2;

describes ascent of the Bristenstock, 173–5;

makes light of dangers of mountaineering, 187

conquers Monte della Disgrazia (1862), 206, 207

Kennedy, T.S., 264, 284–5

Kurz, Toni: killed attempting Eigerwand (1936), 352–5

La Côte (village), 39, 43, 47, 53, 54

La Flégère, 303

Lake Lowertz: tidal wave caused by avalanche (1806), 89

Lauener, Christian (Alpine guide), 193

Lauener, Ulrich (Alpine guide): on Wills’s Wetterhorn climb (1854), 164–9

Lauteraarhorn, 124

Lauterbrunnen (valley), 73, 94

Laveleye, Emile de: opinion of Tyndall, 182

Le Buet: climbed by Bourrit (1775), 19

site of De Lucs’s scientific experiments, 22–3;

accidents, 87

climbed by Ruskin (1844), 140

Lee-Warner (English mountaineer): in Piz Morterasch avalanche (1864), 256, 258

Leonardo da Vinci: climbs Alpine mountain, 5–6

Leslie, Sir John, 113

Leukerbad (spa), 72

Lewin, Edith Mary (second wife of Edward Whymper), 338

Lochmatter, Joseph and Alexandre, 278, 280

Longman, William: becomes first vice-president of Alpine Club, 172

Lunn, Henry, 329

Lusi, Count de: attempt on Mont Blanc (1816), 86

MacCorkendale, Revd G.: killed in Mont Blanc snowstorm (1870), 297

McCormick, Revd Joseph, 270, 278, 279, 285, 292

MacDonald, Mr: on Whymper’s Matterhorn climbs (1862), 220–1;

conquers Dent d’Hérens(1863), 236

Müller, Pastor Johann: climbs Mount Pilatus (1585), 7

Mallory, George, 322

Marjelen, 119, 121

Markham, Captain: conquers Mont Blanc (1825), 97

Mathews, Benjamin St John Attwood, 171

Mathews, C.E., ix

Mathews, William, 170, 171

Matlock Bath, Derbyshire, 76

Matterhorn: climbing disaster (1865), v-vi;

visited by Saussure, 69

seen as the ultimate challenge, 193

difficulty in climbing, 195–6;

Tyndall and Hawkins’s failed attempt (1860), 196–9;

Whymper’s failed attempt (1861), 218–19;

Whymper’s two failed attempts (1862), 220–1;

Whymper’s solo climb (1862), 222–4;

Whymper’s failed attempt (23 July 1862), 226

Whymper’s failed attempt (26 July 1862), 227

Tyndall’s failed attempt (1862), 229–32;

Whymper’s failed attempt (1863), 236–40;

Giordano makes attempt (1865), 265–6;

conquered by Whymper (1865), 271–3;

Whymper’s descent ends in tragedy, 275–7, 341

rescue team formed, 278

inquest into accident, 280, 281

accident sparks criticism of mountaineering in general, 291–5;

conquered by Carrel (1865), 285–6;

conquered by Tyndall (1868), 286–8;

north face conquered by Schmid brothers (1931), 346

Matzewski, Count: conquers Monc Blanc (1818), 86

Maund (British mountaineer), 311

Mehringer, Karl: killed attempting Eigerwand (1935), 349–51

Meije, 241: becomes object of competition, 300

accessibility, 305

central peak conquered by Coolidge and Brevoort (1870), 306–7;

failed British attempt (1873), 307

further failures, 308, 311

conquered by Boileau de Castelnau (1877), 314

conquered by Coolidge (1878), 315–16

Meisner, Friedrich, 76

Menti, Mario: killed attempting Eigerwand (1938), 356

Mer de Glace, 74, 76, 142, 147

study by Forbes (1842), 130–1

Meynett, Luc: on Whymper’s Matterhorn climbs (1862), 221, 227

on Whymper’s Matterhorn climb (1863), 237

Miage, 135

Million, Dr: examines corpses from Hamel’s 1820 expedition to Mont Blanc, 188–90

Modern Painters (Ruskin), 143

Moming Pass: crossed by Whymper (1864), 249, 250–1

Mont Blanc: height, 2

glaciers, 3

reward offered by Saussure for first person to climb (1760), 17

Pierre Simon’s attempts on, 21

Bourrit’s attempts on (1783 and 1784), 32–4;

Saussure’s attempt on (1785), 34–6;

conquered by Paccard and Balmat (1786), 38, 42–7;

dispute on the Paccard/Balmat climb, 50–1;

conquered by Saussure (1787), 52–8;

conquered by Bourrit (1788), 60–1;

Englishmen’s attempt on (1792), 73

Doorthesen and Forneret’s failed attempt on (1802), 77

conquered by Marie Paradis (1809), 77–8;

Count de Lusi’s attempt on (1816), 86

conquered by Count Matzewski (1818), 86

Rensslear and Howard’s attempt on (1819), 86–7;

Undrell’s attempt on (1819), 87

Hamel’s attempt ends in avalanche (1820), 92–3;

conquered by Clissold (1822), 95–6;

conquered by Jackson (1823), 96

conquered by Clarke and Markham (1825), 97

conquered by Fellows and Hawes (1827), 100–5;

conquered by Auldjo (1827), 106

conquered by Wilbraham (1830), 107

conquered by Barry (1834), 107

conquered by Tilly (1834), 107

conquered by Atkins (1837), 107

conquered by D’Angeville (1838), 107

conquered by Smith (1851), 151–5;

conquests in 1854, 162

conquered by Tyndall (1858), 181

corpses from Hamel’s expedition recovered (1861), 188–91;

further remains found, 190

accident (1870), 297–8

Mont Maudit (’The Accursed Mountain’) see Mont Blanc

Mont Pelvoux: conquered by Whymper (1861), 218

Mont Saxe: conquered by Whymper (1865), 263

Monte della Disgrazia: conquered by Kennedy (1862), 206, 207

Monte Moro: conquered by Tyndall (1861), 201

Monte Rosa, 69, 121

Montenvers, 74

Bourrit builds shelter (Montenvers Temple), 78–9

Moore, A.W.: on Whymper’s Pointe des Ecrins climb (1864), 240, 244

on Whymper’s various climbs (1864), 247

on Whymper’s crossing of the Moming Pass (1864), 249, 250, 251

reports on accessibility of the Meije, 305

on bobsleighing, 328

Mordwand (’murder wall’ of the Eiger), 351

Mount Pilatus: mythology, 6–7

mountaineering: term coined by Blackwood’s Magazine, 175

development of technique, 182—4;

dangers of, 187–8;

increased awareness of dangers of, 191

criticisms of following Matterhorn accident, 291–5;

new techniques, 343

grading of rock climbs, 343–5;

dangerous climbs come into vogue, 344–6

Mummery, A.F.: mountaineering exploits, 319–21;

blackballed from Alpine Club, 333

disappearance, 321

as pioneer of climbing techniques, 343

Mur de la Côte, 155

Murchison, Sir Roderick, 114

Murith, Abbé: climbs the Vélan (1779), 24

Mussolini, Benito: awards Pro Valore medal to climbers, 346

Napoleon Bonaparte: opinion of Alps, 77

Napoleonic Wars: effects on Alpine tourism, 76

Necker, Mme: congratulates Saussure on conquest of Mont Blanc, 59

Neuchâtel, 72

Nicolet, Célestin, 115, 117

‘Ode to Mont-Blanc’ (Shelley), 83

Old Weissthor: conquered by Tyndall (1861), 201

Owen, John, 75

Paccard, Michel-Gabriel: mountaineering prowess, 31–3;

on Bourrit’s Mont Blanc climbs (1783 and 1784), 33–4;

history of Mont Blanc, 34

views on Saussure/Bourrit expedition (1785), 37

conquers Mont Blanc with Balmat (1786), 38, 42–7;

account of conquest of Mont Blanc (1786), 48–9;

quarrels with Balmat, 49

escorts tourist parties, 77

makes last entry in Mont Blanc diary (1827), 106

death (1827), 80

Palmerston, Lord, 50

Paradis, Marie, 320: conquers Mont Blanc (1809), 77–8

Payot, Frédéric, 278

Payot, Paul: views on Paccard/Balmat conquest of Mont Blanc, 50–1

Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers (1859), 173, 175, 206

The Peasants of Chamouni, 146

Peel, Sir Robert, 156

Perraudin, Jean-Pierre, 113

Pfaffer (spa), 72

Philpotts, J., 278

Piz Morterasch: avalanche (1864), 256–9

Placidus, Father, viii

Playfair, Professor John, 113, 128

Pleurs (town): avalanche (1618), 89

Pococke and Windham, Messrs: expedition to Chamonix (1741), 10–11, 12

Pointe des Ecrins: Whymper sets his sights on, 240

conquered by Whymper (1864), 243

difficulty of descending, 244

Pontécoulant, Doulcet de, 80

Pontius Pilate: mythology surrounding Mount Pilatus, 6–7

Pornet, Henri, 33

Portons Pass, 265

Pourtales, François de, 115

Primas, Franz: survives attempt on Eigerwand (1937), 355–7

railways, 324–5

Rainer, Edi: killed attempting Eigerwand (1936), 350–4

Randa (village): avalanche (1819), 90

Randall (American mountaineer): killed in Mont Blanc snowstorm (1870), 296

Rensselear and Howard (American mountaineers): failed attempt on Mont Blanc (1819), 86–7

Reynaud (French mountaineer): on Whymper’s Col de Pilatte climb, 245–6

Richardson, Katherine, 320

Riefenstahl, Leni, 346

Robertson, Revd J., 278

Romantics: impressions of the Alps, 83–4, 85, 144

ropes: use in mountaineering, 183–4

Rotario of Asti: climbs Roche Melon (1358), 5

Rousseau, Jean-Jacques: novel La Nouvelle Héloïse (1761), 11–12, 21

Royal Geographical Society, 139

pays scant attention to the Alps, 175–6

Royal Society: Saussure elected Fellow (1788), 59–60

Ruinette: conquered by Whymper (1865), 264

Ruskin, John: as a social reformer, 139

climbs Le Buet (1844), 140

meets Forbes (1844), 140–1;

opinion of geologists, 141–2;

impressions of the Alps, 142–3, 144

publishes Modern Painters (1843–60), 143

opinion of Smith’s ‘The Ascent of Mont Blanc’, 158–9;

criticises mountaineering following Matterhorn accident, 292, 294–5;

death (1900), 331

St Ambrose, Bishop of Milan, 3

St Gallen Heim, Albert von: survey of near-death experiences on the Alps, 281–2

St Gotthard, 142

sanatoriums, 326–8

Sand, George: opinion of English tourists, 99–100

Sandri, Battolo: killed attempting Eigerwand (1938), 356

Saussure, Etienne (son of Horace Benedict): on father’s expedition to Col du Géant (1788), 63

Saussure, Horace Benedict de, 12: early career, 13

journeys to Chamonix, 14—16;

offers reward for first person to climb Mont Blanc (1760), 17

appearance and character, 20

relations with his wife, 26–7;

geological surveys (1774–84), 27–9, 112

descriptions of Alpine life, 29–30;

publishes Voyages dans les Alpes, 29–30;

continues to be obsessed with Mont Blanc, 30–1;

attempt on Mont Blanc (1785), 34–6;

climbing ability criticised by Bourrit, 36

conquers Mont Blanc (1787), 52–8;

ascertains colour of sky on Mont Blanc, 58

greeted with adulation, 59, 60

becomes Fellow of Royal Society (1788), 59–60;

expedition to Col du Géant (1788), 63–9;

describes thunderstorm, 66–7;

describes experiences on Col du Géant, 67–8;

further expeditions, 69

retirement, 69

bankruptcy, 70

death (1798), 71

Saussure, Théodore (son of Horace Benedict), 71

Scheuchzer, Johann: study of the Alps (1723), 8–10;

theory of glacial movement, 122

Schmid, Franz and Toni: conquer north face of the Matterhorn (1931), 346

Schneehorn: Teufel killed in accident on (1936), 350

Schreckhorn (‘Peak of Terror’), 69, 115, 118

Elliott killed on, 299

Scrambles amongst the Alps (Whymper), 293

Sedgwick, Revd Adam, 114

Sedlemayer, Max: killed attempting Eigerwand (1935), 348–50

Sella, Quintino, 266

Selligue (Swiss engineer): on Hamel’s Mont Blanc climb (1820), 90,91

Sémonville (French diplomat), 79

Shelley, Mary: visit to the Alps (1816), 82–3

Shelley, Percy Bysshe: poem ‘Ode to Mont-Blanc’, 83

views on tourism, 86

Simon, Pierre (Alpine guide): character, 15–16;

fails to climb Mont Blanc, 21

Simond, Auguste ‘Samson’: on Wills’s Wetterhorn climb (1854), 164–9

Smith, Albert: early life, 146–7;

character, 150

first visit to the Alps (1838), 147

lectures on the Alps, 148

writings and shows, 149

expedition to Mont Blanc with three Oxford undergraduates (1851), 151

conquers Mont Blanc (1851), 155

reception in Chamonix, 155–6;

reaction at home, 156–7;

show ‘The Ascent of Mont Blanc’ (1852), 157–8;

entertains Royal Family, 159

becomes local hero in Chamonix, 160

invited to join Alpine Club, 172

death (1860), 161

Smythe, Frank, ix, 263, 265

Sparrenhorn: conquered by Tyndall (1861), 201

spas, 72, 73, 108

Spengler, Dr: discovers cure for tuberculosis, 326, 327

The Standard: review of Scrambles amongst the Alps, 294

Stephen, Leslie: description of an Alpine sunset, viii;

impressions of the Alps, 144, 209–10;

appearance and character, 208–9;

condemns mountaineering excess, 210

criticises guideless climbing, 210

criticises Alpine scientists, 212

saddened by criticisms of Alpine Club, 292–3;

review of Scrambles amongst the Alps, 293, 294

on the attractions of mountaineering, 295

description of a Cook’s man, 296

considers mountaineering indefensible, 298

invites Anderegg to London, 323–4;

death (1904), 331

Sulger, Johann, 124

Taconnay (glacier), 43, 54

Tairraz, Auguste: dies in Mont Blanc avalanche (1820), 92

Tairraz, Frédéric: killed on Col du Géant (1860), 184

Tairraz, Jean, 151, 278

Taugwalder, Peter (’Old Peter’): reconnoitres the Matterhorn, 268

on Whymper’s Matterhorn climb (1865), 271

involved in Matterhorn accident, 276, 279–80, 282, 283, 284

Taugwalder, Peter (’Young Peter’): on Whymper’s Matterhorn climb (1865), 271

involved in Matterhorn accident, 276, 283, 284

Teufel, Hans: killed in Schneehorn avalanche (1936), 350

Théodule Pass: crossed by Whymper (1865), 262

Thioly (Swiss mountaineer): opinion of Tyndall, 182

thunderstorms, 65–6;

Saussure’s description of, 66–7

Tilly, Comte Henri de: conquers Mont Blanc (1834), 107

The Times: criticises mountaineering following Matterhorn accident, 291

Töppfer, Rudolf: travels through the Alps (1830–42), 111

visits Agassiz, 116

tourism: eighteenth century, 72–3, 74

effects of Napoleonic Wars, 76

nineteenth century, 85–6, 97–100, 107–11;

twentieth century, 329–30, 360

Tournier, Alexis, 52

Travels through the Alps of Savoy (Forbes), 131–2, 136–8

Trollope, Anthony: lampoons climbers in Travelling Sketches, 292

Tschingel (the Coolidges’ dog), 304–5, 306, 317,318

tuberculosis: nature of, 325–7;

Spengler discovers cure for, 327, 328

Tuckett, Francis Fox, viii, 208, 336

Turner, J.M.W.: Alpine paintings, 74

Tyndall, John: contributes to Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers, 173

early career, 177

appearance and character, 177–8, 179

first visit to the Alps (1849), 178

dispute with Forbes on theory of glaciers, 178–9;

describes Alpine views, 179–80;

ill-health, 180

climbing expeditions in 1858, 181

scientific experiments on Mont Blanc (1859), 181–2;

as an indefatigable climber, 182

investigates Col du Géant accident (1860), 184–6;

awareness of dangers of mountaineering, 187

uneasy relationship with guides, 193

description of Johann Bennen, 193–4;

failed attempt on the Matterhorn (1860), 196–9;

deep discontent with failure, 200

further attempt on the Matterhorn abandoned (1861), 200

climbing expeditions in 1861, 201–2;

conquers Weisshorn (1861), 202–5;

uneasy relationship with Alpine Club, 212–13;

resigns from Alpine Club, 212

prepares attempt on the Matterhorn (1862), 227–8, 229

failed attempt on the Matterhorn (1862), 229–32;

declares the Matterhorn to be unconquerable, 233

reaction to Bennen’s death, 255–6;

in Piz Morterasch avalanche (1864), 256–59;

attempts to recover Douglas’s remains on the Matterhorn (1865), 280

conquers the Matterhorn (1868), 286–8;

retires from climbing, 288

Meta Brevoort’s opinion of, 309

death (1893), 331

Undrell, Captain J.: failed attempt on Mont Blanc (1819), 87

Unteraar glacier, 114–15, 122

Val Tournanche, 264, 266

Valais (Swiss canton), 69

Vanstittart (American adventurer): on Smith’s Mont Blanc climb (1851), 154, 156, 157

Vélan: climbed by Abbé Murith (1779), 23

Vernon, Lord: takes Swiss citizenship, 108

Victoria, Queen, 162–3;

disapproval of mountaineering, 298

Vietsch glacier, 119

Villette, Joseph Jacques de, 33

Vogt, Charles, 115

Vörg, Ludwig: conquers Eigerwand with others (1938), 357

Voyages dans les Alpes (Saussure), 29–30

Wagner, Richard, 144, 259

Walker, Horace, 215, 240

Walker, Lucy, 208, 321

Walters, Anton: on Tyndall’s Matterhorn climb (1862), 228, 231

in Piz Morterasch avalanche (1864), 256

Watt, Joachim von: climbs Mount Pilatus (1518), 7

Weisshorn: conquered by Tyndall (1861), 202–5

Welzenbach, Willy: system of grading rock climbs, 343–5

Wenger (Alpine guide): on Tyndall’s Weisshorn climb (1861), 202–5

Wentworth, Lord, 311

Wetterhorn, 69: conquered by Wills (1854), 164–9

Wey, Francis: discovers remains from Hamel’s 1820 expedition to Mont Blanc, 190

Whymper, Edward: early life and character, 212–13;

first visit to the Alps (1860), 213–15;

first Alpine expedition (1860), 216–17;

conquers Mont Pelvoux (1861), 218

failed attempt on the Matterhorn (1861), 218–19;

two failed attempts on the Matterhorn (1862), 220–1;

solo climb of the Matterhorn (1862), 222–4;

accident, 224–6;

failed attempt on the Matterhorn (23 July 1862), 226

tires of Carrel, 226–7;

failed attempt on the Matterhorn (26 July 1862), 227

invited to join Tyndall’s attempt on the Matterhorn (1862), 228–9;

dispute with Tyndall over Matterhorn climb, 233–4;

use of fireman’s ladder as climbing aid, 235–6;

failed attempt on Dent d’Hérens (1863), 236

decides to attack the Matterhorn from the south, 237

failed attempt on the Matterhorn (1863), 237–401;

sets his sights on Pointe des Ecrins, 240

conquers Brèche de la Meije (1864), 241–2;

conquers Pointe des Ecrins (1864), 243

difficulty of descending Pointe des Ecrins, 244

conquers Col de Pilatte (1864), 245–6;

assists Adams-Reilly in mapping the Alps, 246, 247

attempts on Aiguille d’Argentière (1864), 247–8;

crosses Col de Triolet (1864), 248

conquers Mont Dolent and Aiguille de Trélatête (1864), 248

crosses the Moming Pass (1864), 249, 250–1;

description of Zermatt, 251–2;

various conquests (1865), 261–2, 263, 264

traverses Col Dolent (1865), 263–4;

conquers Aiguille Verte (1865), 263–4;

teams up with Douglas, Hudson and Hadow, 268

conquers the Matterhorn (1865), v-vi, 271–3;

descent of Matterhorn ends in tragedy, 275–7;

gives evidence at inquest, 282, 284

blame apportioned to, 284–5;

later non-Alpine expeditions, 289

shuns the Alps, 290

publishes Scrambles amongst the Alps (1871), 293

awarded Order of SS. Maurice and Lazarus, 294

later career, 332

argument with Coolidge, 333–7;

attempts to heal breach with Coolidge, 334–5, 339

ill-health, 337

marriages, 338

meeting with Coolidge (1911), 339

death (1911), 339–40;

grave at Chamonix, viii

Wilbraham, Hon. Edward Bootle: conquers Mont Blanc (1830), 107

Wilkie, David, 103

Wills, Alfred (later Sir): conquers Wetterhorn (1854), 164–9;

writes of his experiences, 169–70;

contributes to Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers, 173

conquers Mont Blanc (1858), 181

Wilson, Knyvett, 279

winter sports, 328–9

women mountaineers, 320, 321

Woodley (English mountaineer): on Bourrit’s Mont Blanc climb (1788), 60, 61

Woolf, Virginia, 208, 209

Wordsworth, William: account of visit (1790), 74

Young, Geoffrey Winthrop, 322

Zermatt (village), 69, 251