accidents: Col de Balme, 87
Le Buet, 87
Mer de Glace, 131
Col du Géant (1860), 184
Matterhorn (1865), 275–7; 1866–76, 296
Mont Blanc (1870), 297–8;
Eigerwand (1935), 348–54;
Eigerwand (1936), 351–4; see also avalanches
Adams–Reilly, Anthony: maps the Alpine region, 246, 247
on Whymper’s various climbs (1864), 247–8;
Whymper’s opinion of, 248
reluctant to attempt the Matterhorn, 253
Aeigisschorn: conquered by Tyndall (1861), 201
Agassiz, Louis: early career, 112–113;
theory of glaciers, 114, 122–3, 124
study of Unteraar glacier (1840–45), 114–16;
expedition to the Jungfrau (1841), 119–122;
visit to Britain, 122
witnesses creation of a crevasse (1842), 123
tires of Alpine exploration, 124–5;
retires to America (1846), 125, 133–4;
dispute with Forbes on discovery of ice layers, 129–30;
theory of glaciers refuted by Forbes, 132–3;
death (1873), 331
Aiguille d’Argentière: Whymper’s attempts on (1864), 247–8
Aiguille Blaitière: Ruskin’s visit to, 142
Aiguille de Péclet: conquered by Coolidge (1878), 317–18
Aiguille de Trélatête: conquered by Whymper (1864), 248
Aiguille Verte: conquered by Whymper (1865), 263–4
Ailefroide: conquered by Coolidge (1870), 307
Aletsch glacier, 201
Allmen, Albert von, 352
Aimer, Christian: on Wills’s Wetterhorn climb (1854), 166–9;
character, 240
on Whymper’s Pointe des Ecrins climb (1864), 243
makes leap on Pointe des Ecrins, 244, 334, 335
on Whymper’s various climbs (1864), 247
on Whymper’s crossing of the Morning Pass (1864), 249
on Whymper’s various climbs (1865), 261–2, 263
becomes guide to the Coolidges, 304
on Coolidge’s Meije climb (1878), 314–15;
publication of his führerbuch, 333
alpenstocks, 183
Alpine Club: formation suggested by Mathews and Hort, 170
inauguration (1857), 172
qualifications for membership, 172
publishes Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers (1859), 173, 175
abhors trade in Mont Blanc relics, 190
Tyndall’s uneasy relationship with, 211–12;
criticised following Matterhorn accident, 292–3, 294–5;
encouragement of mountaineers, 319
refusal to elect women, 320–1;
condemns attempts on Eigerwand, 356
Alpine Journal: first edition of (1864), 206, 207
Coolidge’s editorship, 317
condemns Sedlemayer/Mehringer attempt on Eigerwand, 350
reports on conquest of Eigerwand, 359
Alps: extent, 1–2;
height, 2
origin of name, 4
Hannibal’s crossing (218 BC), 4–5;
Scheuchzer’s study (1723), 8–10;
early scientific experiments, 24
tourism in eighteenth century, 73–4, 74, 76
tourism in nineteenth century, 85–6, 97–99, 107–11;
geological investigations in nineteenth century, 111–25;
ice exported from, 324–5;
development of railways, 325
development of sanatoriums, 326–28;
development of winter sports, 328–9;
tourism in twentieth century, 329–30;
grading of rock climbs, 343–4
Anderegg, Melchior, 241–2, 323
Andermatten, Franz (Alpine guide): favourite expression, 195
on Tyndall’s Old Weissthor climb (1861), 202
assists in rescue mission on the Matterhorn (1865), 278
Angerer, Willy: killed attempting Eigerwand (1936), 350–4
Annecy, Bishop of: exorcises glaciers of Mont Blanc (1690), 3
Annecy, Bishop Rendu of: pre–empts Forbes’s theory of glacial movement (1838), 133
Aosta (village in Piedmont): prevalence of goitres and cretinism, 30
Arbuthnot, Mrs: killed by lightning, 108
Arnold, Matthew: becomes member of Alpine Club, 173
‘The Ascent of Mont Blanc’ (show by Albert Smith), 157–8
Atkins, H.M.: conquers Mont Blanc (1837), 107
Atkinson, Thomas: becomes member of Alpine Club, 173
Auldjo, John, 144, 172: conquers Mont Blanc (1827), 106
attitude to scientific experimentation, 107
avalanches: causes, 90
Pleurs (1618), 89
Goldau (1806), 89
Bagnes (1818), 89–90;
Randa (1819), 90
Mont Blanc (1820), 92–3;
John Forbes’s description of (1848), 145
Haut de Cry (1864), 253–6;
Piz Morterasch (1864), 256–9;
Schneehorn (1936), 350 see also accidents
Badrutt, Johannes, 328
Bagnes: avalanche (1818), 89–90
Ball, John: becomes first president of Alpine Club, 172
edits Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers (1859), 173
resigns presidency of Alpine Club (1860), 211
Balmat, Auguste: helps Forbes chart Mer de Glace, 130
rescues tourist on Mer de Glace, 131
on Wills’s Wetterhorn climb (1854), 164–9;
on Tyndall’s Mont Blanc climb (1858), 181
speaks at British Museum meeting (1861), 188
Balmat, Dominique, 61
Balmat, Jacques: character, 81
unsuccessful attempts on Mont Blanc, 39–42;
conquers Mont Blanc with Paccard (1786), 38, 42–7;
quarrels with Paccard, 49
receives Saussure reward, 49
conquers Mont Blanc (1787), 52
on Saussure’s expedition to Col du Géant (1788), 64, 68
on Marie Paradis’s Mont Blanc climb (1809), 77–8;
love of money, 80–1;
death (1834), 82
Balmat, Pierre: dies in Mont Blanc avalanche (1820), 92
Banks, Joseph, 60
opinion of Forbes’s Travels, 137–8
Barrington, Charles, viii
Barrow, John, 82, 84, 101, 175
Barry, Dr Martin: conquers Mont Blanc (1834), 107
Baumann, Hans and Peter, 307
Bean, Dr J.: killed in Mont Blanc snowstorm (1870), 297–8
Beckford, William, 72–3
Bel Alp, 201
Bennen, Johann (Alpine guide): Tyndall’s description of, 193–4;
Hawkins’s description of, 194
character, 194–5;
on Tyndall and Hawkins’s Matterhorn climb (1860), 196–199;
on Tyndall’s Old Weissthor climb (1861), 201, 202
on Tyndall’s Weisshorn climb (1861), 202–5;
on Tyndall’s Matterhorn climb (1862), 228, 231, 232
killed in accident on Haut de Cry (1864), 253–6
Bergkameraden (’mountain warriors’), 346, 347
Bernese Oberland (Swiss canton), 69, 94:
Unteraar glacier, 114, 115, 122
Beverley, William: stage illustrations for Smith’s shows, 149, 158
Biener, Franz: on Whymper’s various climbs (1865), 261–2, 263
Blackwood’s Magazine: review of Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers, 175, 176
review of Scrambles amongst the Alps, 294
Blair’s Cabin (Chateau de Folie), 79, 130, 147
Blunt, Wilfred Scawen: becomes member of Alpine Club, 173
Bohren, Peter: on Wills’s Wetterhorn climb (1854), 164–9
Boileau de Castelnau, Emmanuel: early life and mountaineering triumphs, 312–13;
failed attempt on the Meije (1877), 311
conquers the Meije (1877), 313
Boissier, Albertine Amélie (wife of Saussure): character, 26
climbing expeditions, 52
Boissonnet (French mountaineer): in Haut de Cry avalanche (1864), 253, 254, 255
Bonney, T.G.: description of the Dauphiné, 300
Bossons (glacier), 43, 54, 74, 142
Bourrit, Marc-Theodore: appearance and character, 17–18, 20–1;
fascination with Alps, 18–19;
climbs Le Buet (1775), 19
visited by Prince Henry of Prussia, 20
meeting with Baron de Frenilly (1787), 21
describes climbing expeditions, 31
attitude to Alpine exploration, 31–2, 75
attempts on Mont Blanc (1783 and 1784), 32–4;
attempt on Mont Blanc (1785), 34–6;
criticises Saussure’s climbing ability, 36
jealousy of Paccard, 47
account of Paccard and Balmat’s conquest of Mont Blanc, 47–8;
continuing disappointments, 60
conquers Mont Blanc (1788), 60–1;
traverses Col du Géant (1787), 62–3;
leads tours on Mer de Glace, 76
creates shelter on the Montenvers, 78–79;
death (1819), 80
Bouterweck, Friedrich: visit to Lauterbrunnen (1794), 73
Brahms, Johannes, 259
Brèche de la Meije: conquered by Whymper (1864), 241–2
Bremble, Master John de: account of Alpine crossing (1188), 4–5
Brévent (mountain): climbed by Saussure, 15
climbed by Clissold (1822), 94
Brevoort, Meta, 320
first visit to the Alps, 302
interviews Whymper’s chambermaid, 303
begins climbing, 303–4;
decides to conquer the Meije, 305
conquers central peak of the Meije (1870), 306–7;
opinion of Tyndall and his wife, 309
death (1876), 310
Bristenstock: Kennedy’s description of ascent of, 173–5
Brockedon, William: account of morgue at Great St Bernard Pass, 88–9;
opinion of English tourists, 99
Brougham, Lord: impressions of Switzerland (1816), 85
Browne, Dr G.F., 341
Buch, Leopold von, 114
Bulwer, James Benjamin Redfoord, 208
Burton, Richard: becomes member of Alpine Club, 173
Butler, Samuel, 323
Byron, Lord: impressions of the Alps, 83
views on tourism, 86
Cachat, Jean–Michel, 52
Campbell, Mr and Miss: climb Col du Géant (1822), 96
Carrel, César: on Tyndall and Hawkins’s Matterhorn climb (1860), 196–199;
on Tyndall’s Matterhorn climb (1862), 228, 231, 232
on Whymper’s Matterhorn climb (1863), 237
conquers the Matterhorn (1865), 285–6
Carrel, Jean-Antoine (cousin of César Carrel): on Whymper’s Matterhorn climbs (1862), 221, 226
on Tyndall’s Matterhorn climb (1862), 228, 231, 232
on Whymper’s Matterhorn climb (1863), 237
Carrier, Pierre: dies in Mont Blanc avalanche (1820), 92
Chaix, Professor: opinion of Forbes, 133
opinion of Forbes’s Travels, 137
topographical survey of Alps, 138, 176
Chamonix: Pococke and Windham’s visit to (1741), 10–11;
Saussure’s visits to, 14–16;
tourism to, 74
Charles VII of France: orders his chamberlain to climb Mont Aiguille (1492), 5
Charpentier, Jean de, 113, 114
Chateaubriand, Vicomte de: account of visit to the Alps (1805), 74–5
Clark, Ronald, ix; views on Ruskin, 144
Clarke, Dr Edmund: conquers Mont Blanc (1825), 97
Clissold, Frederick: climbs the Brévent (1822), 94
conquers Mont Blanc (1822), 95–6
Cloncurry, Lord, 72–3
Col de Balme: accidents, 87
Col Dolent: traversed by Whymper (1865), 263
Col de Forclaz: Whymper’s opinion of, 249–50
Col du Géant: climbed by Exchaquet (1787), 62, 63
traversed by Bourrit (1787), 62–3;
Saussure’s expedition to (1788), 63–9;
climbed by Mr and Miss Campbell (1822), 96
three climbers killed on (1860), 184
Col d’Hérens: conquered by Whymper (1865), 262
Col d’Oren: crossed by Whymper (1865), 264
Col de Pilatte: conquered by Whymper (1864), 245–6
Col de Taléfre: traversed by Whymper (1865), 264
Col de Triolet: Whymper and party first to cross (1864), 249
Col de Valvournera: crossed by Whymper (1865), 264
Coleridge, Samuel Taylor: poem ‘Hymn before Sunrise in the Vale of Chamouni’ (1802), 76
Compagnie des Guides: founded (1823), 96–7
Conway, Sir Martin: Alpine expeditions, 321–2, 323
retires from mountaineering, 331
becomes president of Alpine Club (1905), 337
relates story of Matterhorn disaster of 1865, 341
Cook, Captain James, 60
Cook, Thomas: tours to the Alps, 296
Coolidge, William: first visit to the Alps, 302
begins climbing, 303–4;
decides to conquer the Meije, 305
conquers central peak of the Meije (1870), 307–8;
conquers Ailefroide (1870), 307
tour of the Dolomites (1876), 310
becomes Fellow of Magdalene College, Oxford (1876), 310
reaction to the death of Meta Brevoort, 311
failed attempt on the Meije (1877), 311
conquers the Meije (1878), 314–15;
writings, 316
editorship of Alpine Journal, 317
conquers Aiguille de Péclet, 317–18;
character, 318
enmity towards Sir Edward Davidson, 333
argument with Whymper, 334–7;
suffers heart attack (1908), 339
meeting with Whymper (1911), 339
decline, 340–1;
relates story of Matterhorn disaster of 1865, 341–2;
death (1926), 342
Cordier (French mountaineer), 308, 311, 314
Coulon, Henri, 115
Couttet, François: on Whymper’s various climbs (1864), 247, 248
Couttet, Jean–Claude, 33
Couttet, Joseph-Marie: on Hamel’s Mont Blanc climb (1820), 91, 92, 93, 94
on Clissold’s Mont Blanc climb (1822), 94, 95
on Ruskin’s Le Buet climb (1844), 140
identifies corpses from Hamel’s 1820 climb, 189–90
crampons, 183
Cresta Run, 329
cretinism: prevalence in Alpine villages, 30, 84, 324
crevasses: Agassiz witnesses creation of (1842), 123
Croz, Michel: Whymper’s opinion of, 240–1;
on Whymper’s various climbs (1864), 247, 248
on Whymper’s crossing of the Moming Pass (1864), 249, 251
on Whymper’s various climbs (1865), 261–2;
on Whymper’s Matterhorn climb (1865), 268, 271, 272
killed during descent, 275
body recovered, 278
D’Angeville, Countess Henriette, 320
conquers Mont Blanc (1838), 107, 147
Darwin, Charles: regard for Agassiz’s theory of glaciers, 122
Dauphiné: Forbes’s exploration of, 134–5, 137
description of, 300
Davidson, Sir Edward: praises Carrel’s conquest of the Matterhorn, 286
enmity towards Coolidge, 333–4, 337
Davos: development as a resort, 326, 327, 328
De Beer, G., ix
De Luc, Jean-André and Guillaume-Antoine: scientific experiments at Le Buet (1765–70), 21–3;
theories of rock formation, 112
Dent Blanche: conquered by Whymper (1865), 262
Lochmatter killed on, 299
Dent d’Hérens: Whymper’s failed attempt on (1863), 236
conquered by MacDonald four days later, 237
Desor, Edouard: assists Agassiz in study of glaciers, 114–15, 116
on Forbes’s expedition to the Jungfrau, 120, 121
conquers Lauteraarhorn (1842), 124
climbs in 1843, 125
denigrated by Forbes, 129
Desportes (French resident at Geneva), 79, 80
Devassoud, Julien: account of Mont Blanc avalanche (1820), 92–3;
at 1861 inquest, 189
Deville, Marie, 113
Dickens, Charles: criticises mountaineering following Matterhorn accident, 292
dilatation theory of glaciers, 122, 136
Forbes’s rejection of, 132
Dodgson, Revd Charles (Lewis Carroll), 312
Dolomites: Coolidge’s tour of (1876), 310
Dôme du Goûter, 39, 40, 44, 47, 53, 55
Doorthesen (German mountaineer): failed attempt on Mont Blanc (1802), 77
Dornford, Joseph: on Hamel’s Mont Blanc climb (1820), 90, 91, 93, 94
opposed to use of ropes, 184
Douglas, Lord Francis: early exploits, 267–8;
on Whymper’s Matterhorn climb (1865), 268
killed during descent, 275
Duhamel (French mountaineer), 308, 310, 311,314
Dumas, Alexandre: account of Paccard and Balmat’s conquest of Mont Blanc, 42–7;
visit to the Alps (1832), 109–10
Eastlake, Lady: condemns Ruskin’s Modern Painters, 143
Eiger, 70: north face conquered (1932), 347
Eigerwand (Eiger Wall): failed attempt by Sedlemayer and Mehringer (1935), 348–50;
failed attempt by Austrian/German team (1936), 351–4;
reaction of the press, 354
bodies recovered, 355
failed attempt by Primas and Gollacher (1937), 355–6;
failed attempt by Sandri and Menti (1938), 356
conquered by Heckmair and others (1938), 357
Elliott, Revd J.M.: described by Gautier, 299
Ellis, Mr (English mountaineer): conquers Finsteraarhorn (1857), 171
Emerson, Ralph Waldo, 139–40
Engel, Marie Claire, ix
English tourists, 108–9;
opinions on, 98–100
Eschen (mountaineer): death on Le Buet, 87
Escher (mountaineer): death on Col de Balme, 87
Evian (spa), 72
Evolena (village): Forbes finds inhabitants unfriendly, 135
Exchaquet (mountaineer): climbs Col du Géant (1787), 62, 63
visits Saussure’s expedition to Col du Géant (1788), 64
makes wooden models of Mont Blanc, 77, 137
Faraday, Michael: visits Agassiz, 116
letter from Tyndall, 179–80
Fellows, Sir Charles: conquers Mont Blanc (1827), 100–4;
later career, 105
Finsteraarhorn, 115, 118, 124, 171
Forbes, James: character and early career, 126–7;
visits Agassiz (1841), 115–16, 117–18;
expedition to the Jungfrau (1841), 119–22;
low opinion of Alpine tourists, 127–8;
low opinion of scientists, 128
dispute with Agassiz on discovery of ice layers, 129–30;
study of Mer de Glace (1842), 130–1;
publishes Travels through the Alps of Savoy (1843), 131–2;
ill-health, 133
exploration of Dauphiné, 134–5, 137
theory of glaciers, 135
fear of rockfalls, 136
discovers corpses, 136
book causes stir, 136–8;
dispute with Tyndall on theory of glaciers, 178–9;
predicts discovery of corpses from Hamel’s 1820 expedition, 188
death (1868), 331
Forbes, John (doctor to Queen Victoria): witnesses avalanche (1848), 145
Forneret (mountaineer): failed attempt on Mont Blanc (1802), 77
fossil fishes, 113
Fox, Charles James, 72
Frenilly, Baron de: meeting with Bourrit (1787), 21
Freshfield, Douglas, ix;
watches Smith’s ‘The Ascent of Mont Blanc’, 159
involvement in Coolidge/Whymper argument, 336, 337
Gaskell, Elizabeth, 259
Gaspard, Pierre, 311
Gautier, Théophile: description of Elliott, 299
Géant, Cachat le: on Bourrit’s Mont Blanc climb (1788), 61
Geneva: suicides in eighteenth century, 13
character, 14
Geological Society of London, 140
geology (Alpine): studies in nineteenth century, 111–25
German and Austrian Alpine Club, 346–7
Germany: Nazi exaltation of Bergkameraden, 348
Gesner, Conrad: decides to climb Alps (1541), 1
climbs Mount Pilatus (1555), 7–8
Giordano, Felice: failed attempt on the Matterhorn (1865), 265–6, 271, 272
downcast by Whymper’s conquest, 285
Girdlestone, Revd A., 267, 345
Glacier de Bionnassay, 33
glaciers: Saussure’s theory of, 28–9;
nineteenth-century theories of, 111–12;
Agassiz’s theory of, 114, 115–16, 122–3, 124
Forbes’s theory of, 131–3, 135
Forbes’s theory pre-empted by Bishop of Annecy, 133
glissading, 103
goitres: prevalence in Alpine villages, 30, 84, 324
Goldau (village): avalanche (1806), 89
Golden Age of Mountaineering, 163–4, 291
Gollacher, Albert: killed attempting Eigerwand (1937), 355
Gorani, Count Joseph, 73
Gos, Charles, 341
Gosse, H. A., 32
Gossett (English mountaineer): in Haut de Cry avalanche (1864), 253, 254, 255, 256
Gotsch, Henry: failed attempt on the Meije (1876), 308
on Alpine mythology, 313
Grand Cornier: conquered by Whymper (1865), 262
Grand Plateau (glacier), 41, 42, 53, 55, 61, 78, 91, 102, 148, 154
Grands Mulets, 39, 43, 61, 77, 91, 102, 153, 154
hut built on (1853–54), 160
grapnels: invented by Whymper, 223
Great St Bernard Hospice, 3
Great St Bernard Pass, 76, 111
morgue described by William Brockedon, 88
Guggenbuhl, Dr, 327n
Guillemin, Paul (French mountaineer), 311, 314
Guyot, Arnold, 129
Hadow, Douglas: on Whymper’s Matterhorn climb (1865), 269, 270, 271
killed during descent, 275
body recovered, 278
Haller, Albrecht von: poem Die Alpen (1732), 12
Hamel, Dr: expedition to Mont Blanc ends in avalanche (1820), 87, 90, 92, 93
causes commotion at British Museum meeting (1861), 188
Hanbury, Charlotte (first wife of Edward Whymper), 338
Hannibal: crosses the Alps (218 BC), 4
Hardy, Revd J.F.: conquers Finsteraarhorn (1857), 171
Harrer, Heinrich: conquers Eigerwand with others (1938), 357
account of climb, 358, 359, 361
Haut de Cry: Bennen killed in avalanche (1864), 253–6
Hawes, William: on Fellows’s Mont Blanc climb (1827), 100–4;
publishes account of the climb, 105
Hawkins, Vaughan, 193: description of Johann Bennen, 194
description of the Matterhorn, 196
failed attempt on the Matterhorn (1860), 196–199
Hawkins-Whitshed, Elizabeth, 321
Heckmair, Anderl, 356: conquers Eigerwand with others (1938), 358
Henderson, Gilbert: on Hamel’s Mont Blanc climb (1820), 90, 91, 93, 94
Henry, Prince of Prussia: visits Bourrit, 20
Herbst, Albert: survives Schneehorn avalanche (1936), 350
Hinchliff, Thomas, 187,215
Hinterstoisser, Andreas: killed attempting Eigerwand (1936), 351–5
Holland, Philemon, 4
Hort, Revd Fenton John Anthony, 170, 171
Hudson, Revd Charles, 192
character, 268–9;
on Whymper’s Matterhorn climb (1865), 270
killed during descent, 275
body recovered, 278
Hudson, Emily (wife of Charles), 285
Humboldt, Baron Alexander von, 113, 129
Hurzeler, Albert, 340
Hutchinson (English mountaineer): in Piz Morterasch avalanche (1864), 256, 258
Huxley, T.H.: on Tyndall’s Alpine expedition (1856), 178, 179
opinion of Tyndall, 182
ice: exported from the Alps, 324—5
Illustrated London News: criticises mountaineering following Matterhorn accident, 291
Imseng, Abbot, viii
Irving, R.: antipathy towards dangerous climbing, 345
Jackson, H.H.: conquers Mont Blanc (1823), 96
Janssen, Dr: builds observatory on Mont Blanc, 323
Jenni (Alpine guide): in Piz Morterasch avalanche (1864), 256, 257–8
Jerrold, Douglas, 150
Journal Illustré: criticises mountaineering following Matterhorn accident, 292
Agassiz and Forbes’s expedition to (1841), 119–22
Kasparek, Fritz: conquers Eigerwand with others (1938), 357
Kaufmann, Ulrich: joins Wills on Wetterhorn climb, 166–9
Kennedy, Edward Shirley: role in foundation of Alpine Club, 171–2;
describes ascent of the Bristenstock, 173–5;
makes light of dangers of mountaineering, 187
conquers Monte della Disgrazia (1862), 206, 207
Kurz, Toni: killed attempting Eigerwand (1936), 352–5
La Côte (village), 39, 43, 47, 53, 54
La Flégère, 303
Lake Lowertz: tidal wave caused by avalanche (1806), 89
Lauener, Christian (Alpine guide), 193
Lauener, Ulrich (Alpine guide): on Wills’s Wetterhorn climb (1854), 164–9
Lauteraarhorn, 124
Lauterbrunnen (valley), 73, 94
Laveleye, Emile de: opinion of Tyndall, 182
Le Buet: climbed by Bourrit (1775), 19
site of De Lucs’s scientific experiments, 22–3;
accidents, 87
climbed by Ruskin (1844), 140
Lee-Warner (English mountaineer): in Piz Morterasch avalanche (1864), 256, 258
Leonardo da Vinci: climbs Alpine mountain, 5–6
Leslie, Sir John, 113
Leukerbad (spa), 72
Lewin, Edith Mary (second wife of Edward Whymper), 338
Lochmatter, Joseph and Alexandre, 278, 280
Longman, William: becomes first vice-president of Alpine Club, 172
Lunn, Henry, 329
Lusi, Count de: attempt on Mont Blanc (1816), 86
MacCorkendale, Revd G.: killed in Mont Blanc snowstorm (1870), 297
McCormick, Revd Joseph, 270, 278, 279, 285, 292
MacDonald, Mr: on Whymper’s Matterhorn climbs (1862), 220–1;
conquers Dent d’Hérens(1863), 236
Müller, Pastor Johann: climbs Mount Pilatus (1585), 7
Mallory, George, 322
Markham, Captain: conquers Mont Blanc (1825), 97
Mathews, Benjamin St John Attwood, 171
Mathews, C.E., ix
Matlock Bath, Derbyshire, 76
Matterhorn: climbing disaster (1865), v-vi;
visited by Saussure, 69
seen as the ultimate challenge, 193
difficulty in climbing, 195–6;
Tyndall and Hawkins’s failed attempt (1860), 196–9;
Whymper’s failed attempt (1861), 218–19;
Whymper’s two failed attempts (1862), 220–1;
Whymper’s solo climb (1862), 222–4;
Whymper’s failed attempt (23 July 1862), 226
Whymper’s failed attempt (26 July 1862), 227
Tyndall’s failed attempt (1862), 229–32;
Whymper’s failed attempt (1863), 236–40;
Giordano makes attempt (1865), 265–6;
conquered by Whymper (1865), 271–3;
Whymper’s descent ends in tragedy, 275–7, 341
rescue team formed, 278
inquest into accident, 280, 281
accident sparks criticism of mountaineering in general, 291–5;
conquered by Carrel (1865), 285–6;
conquered by Tyndall (1868), 286–8;
north face conquered by Schmid brothers (1931), 346
Matzewski, Count: conquers Monc Blanc (1818), 86
Maund (British mountaineer), 311
Mehringer, Karl: killed attempting Eigerwand (1935), 349–51
Meije, 241: becomes object of competition, 300
accessibility, 305
central peak conquered by Coolidge and Brevoort (1870), 306–7;
failed British attempt (1873), 307
conquered by Boileau de Castelnau (1877), 314
conquered by Coolidge (1878), 315–16
Meisner, Friedrich, 76
Menti, Mario: killed attempting Eigerwand (1938), 356
Mer de Glace, 74, 76, 142, 147
study by Forbes (1842), 130–1
Meynett, Luc: on Whymper’s Matterhorn climbs (1862), 221, 227
on Whymper’s Matterhorn climb (1863), 237
Miage, 135
Million, Dr: examines corpses from Hamel’s 1820 expedition to Mont Blanc, 188–90
Modern Painters (Ruskin), 143
Moming Pass: crossed by Whymper (1864), 249, 250–1
Mont Blanc: height, 2
glaciers, 3
reward offered by Saussure for first person to climb (1760), 17
Pierre Simon’s attempts on, 21
Bourrit’s attempts on (1783 and 1784), 32–4;
Saussure’s attempt on (1785), 34–6;
conquered by Paccard and Balmat (1786), 38, 42–7;
dispute on the Paccard/Balmat climb, 50–1;
conquered by Saussure (1787), 52–8;
conquered by Bourrit (1788), 60–1;
Englishmen’s attempt on (1792), 73
Doorthesen and Forneret’s failed attempt on (1802), 77
conquered by Marie Paradis (1809), 77–8;
Count de Lusi’s attempt on (1816), 86
conquered by Count Matzewski (1818), 86
Rensslear and Howard’s attempt on (1819), 86–7;
Undrell’s attempt on (1819), 87
Hamel’s attempt ends in avalanche (1820), 92–3;
conquered by Clissold (1822), 95–6;
conquered by Jackson (1823), 96
conquered by Clarke and Markham (1825), 97
conquered by Fellows and Hawes (1827), 100–5;
conquered by Auldjo (1827), 106
conquered by Wilbraham (1830), 107
conquered by Barry (1834), 107
conquered by Tilly (1834), 107
conquered by Atkins (1837), 107
conquered by D’Angeville (1838), 107
conquered by Smith (1851), 151–5;
conquests in 1854, 162
conquered by Tyndall (1858), 181
corpses from Hamel’s expedition recovered (1861), 188–91;
further remains found, 190
accident (1870), 297–8
Mont Maudit (’The Accursed Mountain’) see Mont Blanc
Mont Pelvoux: conquered by Whymper (1861), 218
Mont Saxe: conquered by Whymper (1865), 263
Monte della Disgrazia: conquered by Kennedy (1862), 206, 207
Monte Moro: conquered by Tyndall (1861), 201
Montenvers, 74
Bourrit builds shelter (Montenvers Temple), 78–9
Moore, A.W.: on Whymper’s Pointe des Ecrins climb (1864), 240, 244
on Whymper’s various climbs (1864), 247
on Whymper’s crossing of the Moming Pass (1864), 249, 250, 251
reports on accessibility of the Meije, 305
on bobsleighing, 328
Mordwand (’murder wall’ of the Eiger), 351
Mount Pilatus: mythology, 6–7
mountaineering: term coined by Blackwood’s Magazine, 175
development of technique, 182—4;
dangers of, 187–8;
increased awareness of dangers of, 191
criticisms of following Matterhorn accident, 291–5;
new techniques, 343
grading of rock climbs, 343–5;
dangerous climbs come into vogue, 344–6
Mummery, A.F.: mountaineering exploits, 319–21;
blackballed from Alpine Club, 333
disappearance, 321
as pioneer of climbing techniques, 343
Mur de la Côte, 155
Murchison, Sir Roderick, 114
Murith, Abbé: climbs the Vélan (1779), 24
Mussolini, Benito: awards Pro Valore medal to climbers, 346
Napoleon Bonaparte: opinion of Alps, 77
Napoleonic Wars: effects on Alpine tourism, 76
Necker, Mme: congratulates Saussure on conquest of Mont Blanc, 59
Neuchâtel, 72
‘Ode to Mont-Blanc’ (Shelley), 83
Old Weissthor: conquered by Tyndall (1861), 201
Owen, John, 75
Paccard, Michel-Gabriel: mountaineering prowess, 31–3;
on Bourrit’s Mont Blanc climbs (1783 and 1784), 33–4;
history of Mont Blanc, 34
views on Saussure/Bourrit expedition (1785), 37
conquers Mont Blanc with Balmat (1786), 38, 42–7;
account of conquest of Mont Blanc (1786), 48–9;
quarrels with Balmat, 49
escorts tourist parties, 77
makes last entry in Mont Blanc diary (1827), 106
death (1827), 80
Palmerston, Lord, 50
Paradis, Marie, 320: conquers Mont Blanc (1809), 77–8
Payot, Frédéric, 278
Payot, Paul: views on Paccard/Balmat conquest of Mont Blanc, 50–1
Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers (1859), 173, 175, 206
The Peasants of Chamouni, 146
Peel, Sir Robert, 156
Perraudin, Jean-Pierre, 113
Pfaffer (spa), 72
Philpotts, J., 278
Piz Morterasch: avalanche (1864), 256–9
Placidus, Father, viii
Playfair, Professor John, 113, 128
Pleurs (town): avalanche (1618), 89
Pococke and Windham, Messrs: expedition to Chamonix (1741), 10–11, 12
Pointe des Ecrins: Whymper sets his sights on, 240
conquered by Whymper (1864), 243
difficulty of descending, 244
Pontécoulant, Doulcet de, 80
Pontius Pilate: mythology surrounding Mount Pilatus, 6–7
Pornet, Henri, 33
Portons Pass, 265
Pourtales, François de, 115
Primas, Franz: survives attempt on Eigerwand (1937), 355–7
railways, 324–5
Rainer, Edi: killed attempting Eigerwand (1936), 350–4
Randa (village): avalanche (1819), 90
Randall (American mountaineer): killed in Mont Blanc snowstorm (1870), 296
Rensselear and Howard (American mountaineers): failed attempt on Mont Blanc (1819), 86–7
Reynaud (French mountaineer): on Whymper’s Col de Pilatte climb, 245–6
Richardson, Katherine, 320
Riefenstahl, Leni, 346
Robertson, Revd J., 278
Romantics: impressions of the Alps, 83–4, 85, 144
ropes: use in mountaineering, 183–4
Rotario of Asti: climbs Roche Melon (1358), 5
Rousseau, Jean-Jacques: novel La Nouvelle Héloïse (1761), 11–12, 21
Royal Geographical Society, 139
pays scant attention to the Alps, 175–6
Royal Society: Saussure elected Fellow (1788), 59–60
Ruinette: conquered by Whymper (1865), 264
Ruskin, John: as a social reformer, 139
climbs Le Buet (1844), 140
meets Forbes (1844), 140–1;
opinion of geologists, 141–2;
impressions of the Alps, 142–3, 144
publishes Modern Painters (1843–60), 143
opinion of Smith’s ‘The Ascent of Mont Blanc’, 158–9;
criticises mountaineering following Matterhorn accident, 292, 294–5;
death (1900), 331
St Ambrose, Bishop of Milan, 3
St Gallen Heim, Albert von: survey of near-death experiences on the Alps, 281–2
St Gotthard, 142
sanatoriums, 326–8
Sand, George: opinion of English tourists, 99–100
Sandri, Battolo: killed attempting Eigerwand (1938), 356
Saussure, Etienne (son of Horace Benedict): on father’s expedition to Col du Géant (1788), 63
Saussure, Horace Benedict de, 12: early career, 13
journeys to Chamonix, 14—16;
offers reward for first person to climb Mont Blanc (1760), 17
appearance and character, 20
relations with his wife, 26–7;
geological surveys (1774–84), 27–9, 112
descriptions of Alpine life, 29–30;
publishes Voyages dans les Alpes, 29–30;
continues to be obsessed with Mont Blanc, 30–1;
attempt on Mont Blanc (1785), 34–6;
climbing ability criticised by Bourrit, 36
conquers Mont Blanc (1787), 52–8;
ascertains colour of sky on Mont Blanc, 58
greeted with adulation, 59, 60
becomes Fellow of Royal Society (1788), 59–60;
expedition to Col du Géant (1788), 63–9;
describes thunderstorm, 66–7;
describes experiences on Col du Géant, 67–8;
further expeditions, 69
retirement, 69
bankruptcy, 70
death (1798), 71
Saussure, Théodore (son of Horace Benedict), 71
Scheuchzer, Johann: study of the Alps (1723), 8–10;
theory of glacial movement, 122
Schmid, Franz and Toni: conquer north face of the Matterhorn (1931), 346
Schneehorn: Teufel killed in accident on (1936), 350
Schreckhorn (‘Peak of Terror’), 69, 115, 118
Elliott killed on, 299
Scrambles amongst the Alps (Whymper), 293
Sedgwick, Revd Adam, 114
Sedlemayer, Max: killed attempting Eigerwand (1935), 348–50
Sella, Quintino, 266
Selligue (Swiss engineer): on Hamel’s Mont Blanc climb (1820), 90,91
Sémonville (French diplomat), 79
Shelley, Mary: visit to the Alps (1816), 82–3
Shelley, Percy Bysshe: poem ‘Ode to Mont-Blanc’, 83
views on tourism, 86
Simon, Pierre (Alpine guide): character, 15–16;
fails to climb Mont Blanc, 21
Simond, Auguste ‘Samson’: on Wills’s Wetterhorn climb (1854), 164–9
Smith, Albert: early life, 146–7;
character, 150
first visit to the Alps (1838), 147
lectures on the Alps, 148
writings and shows, 149
expedition to Mont Blanc with three Oxford undergraduates (1851), 151
conquers Mont Blanc (1851), 155
reception in Chamonix, 155–6;
reaction at home, 156–7;
show ‘The Ascent of Mont Blanc’ (1852), 157–8;
entertains Royal Family, 159
becomes local hero in Chamonix, 160
invited to join Alpine Club, 172
death (1860), 161
Sparrenhorn: conquered by Tyndall (1861), 201
Spengler, Dr: discovers cure for tuberculosis, 326, 327
The Standard: review of Scrambles amongst the Alps, 294
Stephen, Leslie: description of an Alpine sunset, viii;
impressions of the Alps, 144, 209–10;
appearance and character, 208–9;
condemns mountaineering excess, 210
criticises guideless climbing, 210
criticises Alpine scientists, 212
saddened by criticisms of Alpine Club, 292–3;
review of Scrambles amongst the Alps, 293, 294
on the attractions of mountaineering, 295
description of a Cook’s man, 296
considers mountaineering indefensible, 298
invites Anderegg to London, 323–4;
death (1904), 331
Sulger, Johann, 124
Tairraz, Auguste: dies in Mont Blanc avalanche (1820), 92
Tairraz, Frédéric: killed on Col du Géant (1860), 184
Taugwalder, Peter (’Old Peter’): reconnoitres the Matterhorn, 268
on Whymper’s Matterhorn climb (1865), 271
involved in Matterhorn accident, 276, 279–80, 282, 283, 284
Taugwalder, Peter (’Young Peter’): on Whymper’s Matterhorn climb (1865), 271
involved in Matterhorn accident, 276, 283, 284
Teufel, Hans: killed in Schneehorn avalanche (1936), 350
Théodule Pass: crossed by Whymper (1865), 262
Thioly (Swiss mountaineer): opinion of Tyndall, 182
thunderstorms, 65–6;
Saussure’s description of, 66–7
Tilly, Comte Henri de: conquers Mont Blanc (1834), 107
The Times: criticises mountaineering following Matterhorn accident, 291
Töppfer, Rudolf: travels through the Alps (1830–42), 111
visits Agassiz, 116
tourism: eighteenth century, 72–3, 74
effects of Napoleonic Wars, 76
nineteenth century, 85–6, 97–100, 107–11;
twentieth century, 329–30, 360
Tournier, Alexis, 52
Travels through the Alps of Savoy (Forbes), 131–2, 136–8
Trollope, Anthony: lampoons climbers in Travelling Sketches, 292
Tschingel (the Coolidges’ dog), 304–5, 306, 317,318
tuberculosis: nature of, 325–7;
Spengler discovers cure for, 327, 328
Tuckett, Francis Fox, viii, 208, 336
Turner, J.M.W.: Alpine paintings, 74
Tyndall, John: contributes to Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers, 173
early career, 177
appearance and character, 177–8, 179
first visit to the Alps (1849), 178
dispute with Forbes on theory of glaciers, 178–9;
describes Alpine views, 179–80;
ill-health, 180
climbing expeditions in 1858, 181
scientific experiments on Mont Blanc (1859), 181–2;
as an indefatigable climber, 182
investigates Col du Géant accident (1860), 184–6;
awareness of dangers of mountaineering, 187
uneasy relationship with guides, 193
description of Johann Bennen, 193–4;
failed attempt on the Matterhorn (1860), 196–9;
deep discontent with failure, 200
further attempt on the Matterhorn abandoned (1861), 200
climbing expeditions in 1861, 201–2;
conquers Weisshorn (1861), 202–5;
uneasy relationship with Alpine Club, 212–13;
resigns from Alpine Club, 212
prepares attempt on the Matterhorn (1862), 227–8, 229
failed attempt on the Matterhorn (1862), 229–32;
declares the Matterhorn to be unconquerable, 233
reaction to Bennen’s death, 255–6;
in Piz Morterasch avalanche (1864), 256–59;
attempts to recover Douglas’s remains on the Matterhorn (1865), 280
conquers the Matterhorn (1868), 286–8;
retires from climbing, 288
Meta Brevoort’s opinion of, 309
death (1893), 331
Undrell, Captain J.: failed attempt on Mont Blanc (1819), 87
Valais (Swiss canton), 69
Vanstittart (American adventurer): on Smith’s Mont Blanc climb (1851), 154, 156, 157
Vélan: climbed by Abbé Murith (1779), 23
Vernon, Lord: takes Swiss citizenship, 108
Victoria, Queen, 162–3;
disapproval of mountaineering, 298
Vietsch glacier, 119
Villette, Joseph Jacques de, 33
Vogt, Charles, 115
Vörg, Ludwig: conquers Eigerwand with others (1938), 357
Voyages dans les Alpes (Saussure), 29–30
Walters, Anton: on Tyndall’s Matterhorn climb (1862), 228, 231
in Piz Morterasch avalanche (1864), 256
Watt, Joachim von: climbs Mount Pilatus (1518), 7
Weisshorn: conquered by Tyndall (1861), 202–5
Welzenbach, Willy: system of grading rock climbs, 343–5
Wenger (Alpine guide): on Tyndall’s Weisshorn climb (1861), 202–5
Wentworth, Lord, 311
Wetterhorn, 69: conquered by Wills (1854), 164–9
Wey, Francis: discovers remains from Hamel’s 1820 expedition to Mont Blanc, 190
Whymper, Edward: early life and character, 212–13;
first visit to the Alps (1860), 213–15;
first Alpine expedition (1860), 216–17;
conquers Mont Pelvoux (1861), 218
failed attempt on the Matterhorn (1861), 218–19;
two failed attempts on the Matterhorn (1862), 220–1;
solo climb of the Matterhorn (1862), 222–4;
accident, 224–6;
failed attempt on the Matterhorn (23 July 1862), 226
tires of Carrel, 226–7;
failed attempt on the Matterhorn (26 July 1862), 227
invited to join Tyndall’s attempt on the Matterhorn (1862), 228–9;
dispute with Tyndall over Matterhorn climb, 233–4;
use of fireman’s ladder as climbing aid, 235–6;
failed attempt on Dent d’Hérens (1863), 236
decides to attack the Matterhorn from the south, 237
failed attempt on the Matterhorn (1863), 237–401;
sets his sights on Pointe des Ecrins, 240
conquers Brèche de la Meije (1864), 241–2;
conquers Pointe des Ecrins (1864), 243
difficulty of descending Pointe des Ecrins, 244
conquers Col de Pilatte (1864), 245–6;
assists Adams-Reilly in mapping the Alps, 246, 247
attempts on Aiguille d’Argentière (1864), 247–8;
crosses Col de Triolet (1864), 248
conquers Mont Dolent and Aiguille de Trélatête (1864), 248
crosses the Moming Pass (1864), 249, 250–1;
description of Zermatt, 251–2;
various conquests (1865), 261–2, 263, 264
traverses Col Dolent (1865), 263–4;
conquers Aiguille Verte (1865), 263–4;
teams up with Douglas, Hudson and Hadow, 268
conquers the Matterhorn (1865), v-vi, 271–3;
descent of Matterhorn ends in tragedy, 275–7;
gives evidence at inquest, 282, 284
blame apportioned to, 284–5;
later non-Alpine expeditions, 289
shuns the Alps, 290
publishes Scrambles amongst the Alps (1871), 293
awarded Order of SS. Maurice and Lazarus, 294
later career, 332
argument with Coolidge, 333–7;
attempts to heal breach with Coolidge, 334–5, 339
ill-health, 337
marriages, 338
meeting with Coolidge (1911), 339
death (1911), 339–40;
grave at Chamonix, viii
Wilbraham, Hon. Edward Bootle: conquers Mont Blanc (1830), 107
Wilkie, David, 103
Wills, Alfred (later Sir): conquers Wetterhorn (1854), 164–9;
writes of his experiences, 169–70;
contributes to Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers, 173
conquers Mont Blanc (1858), 181
Wilson, Knyvett, 279
winter sports, 328–9
Woodley (English mountaineer): on Bourrit’s Mont Blanc climb (1788), 60, 61
Wordsworth, William: account of visit (1790), 74
Young, Geoffrey Winthrop, 322