CHAPTER 10
ONIONS, MUSHROOMS, AND TRUFFLES

Whisk together the beer, eggs, ¹⁄₂ cup oil, cornstarch, and salt until it makes a thick batter. Cut the onions into 1 thick slices; separate into rings. Heat the fry oil to 360°F in a medium saucepan. Dredge the onion rings in cornstarch, dip into the batter, and fry. Do not overcrowd the pot. Add rings one by one to the pot, making sure the first has started to sizzle before adding the next (this prevents them from sticking together).
Drain on paper towels and sprinkle with salt before serving.

STUFFED ONIONS

French chef Georges Auguste Escoffier, founder of the Ritz Hotel in Paris, and one of the great chefs of all time, codified many of the classic recipes of France at the turn of the twentieth century. This is one of them, which is still taught to young chefs today.

Serves 4

4 medium Spanish onions

3 teaspoons butter, divided

1 chopped shallot

1 cup very finely chopped mushrooms

1 tablespoon dry white wine

1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 cups strong vegetable stock

Heat oven to 375°F. Trim the tops from the onions, and cut the roots off, but leave the root core in to hold the onion together. Peel the skins. Blanch the onions in lightly salted boiling water for 10 minutes. Scoop out the insides, using a melon-ball scoop or spoon, leaving ¹⁄₃ walls. Chop the scooped insides, and sauté them in 1 teaspoon of the butter.
Melt the remaining 2 teaspoons of butter in a skillet; add the shallots. Cook over medium heat until they are translucent, about 5 minutes; add the mushrooms. Cook until mushrooms have wilted and most liquid has evaporated; add the wine and cook to almost dry. Remove from heat; add the chopped parsley. Season well with salt and pepper. Combine the mushroom mixture with the chopped onion insides and fill into the onion shells. Place in a small buttered baking dish with the vegetable stock. Cover with foil.
Bake for 1 hour, basting once. Remove the lid halfway through to allow the onions to brown.

BRAISED LEEKS

Silky, delicate braised leeks are juicy and light, making them an excellent foil for spicy dishes and fried foods. Broth from braising leeks is an excellent vegetable stock, so keep it for use in soups, stews, and risottos. Remember to wash leeks very well, twice even, as they often contain lots of sandy grit.

Serves 4

5 black peppercorns

5 parsley stems

1 bay leaf

1 onion, halved

2 carrots, thinly sliced

1 rib celery, sliced

3 quarts water

2 teaspoons salt

4 leeks, cleaned, halved lengthwise

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

Chopped chives or parsley

Combine peppercorns, parsley stems, bay leaf, onion, carrots, and celery in a nonreactive pot with 3 quarts of water and 2 teaspoons salt. Bring to a boil; lower to a simmer. Add the leeks; simmer very gently for 15–20 minutes, until leeks are very tender.
Remove leeks from the broth; arrange them cut-side up on a platter. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with chives or parsley.

GRILLED LEEKS WITH TARRAGON AND LEMON

Some vegetables are best grilled after a light blanching. Leeks achieve a tender, silky texture and mild vegetal sweetness on the grill when they’ve been steamed or blanched in boiling water before they hit the barbecue. Always leave the root core attached to hold cooking leeks together.

Serves 4

4 leeks, cleaned, split lengthwise

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice (about ¹⁄₂ of a lemon)

1 tablespoon freshly chopped tarragon, chervil, chives, or Italian parsley

Heat a grill or stovetop grill pan. Steam or blanch the leeks in boiling salted water for 5 minutes. Shock them by plunging them into ice-cold water; drain well. Lightly brush them with olive oil, top and bottom; lightly season them with salt and pepper. Grill the leeks on both sides until dark brown grill marks appear. Transfer to a platter.
Whisk together the mustard and lemon juice. Gradually whisk in the remaining olive oil; season the dressing with salt and pepper. Drizzle this dressing over the grilled leeks. Sprinkle with chopped tarragon (or other herb of your choice), and serve hot or at room temperature.

SCALLION PANCAKES

A Chinese takeout favorite, these delicious, crunchy pancakes are excellent with garlicky sautéed Asian greens and steamed jasmine rice.

Serves 4

2¹⁄₂ cups all-purpose flour

1¹⁄₂ teaspoons salt

1¹⁄₂ tablespoons peanut oil

1 cup water, boiling

4 teaspoons Asian toasted sesame oil

1 cup chopped scallion greens, plus extra for garnishing

¹⁄₂ cup corn oil for frying

In a large mixing bowl, combine 2 cups flour, salt, peanut oil, and 1 cup boiling water. Mix with a wooden spoon to form workable dough, adding more flour if necessary. Knead the dough on a lightly floured surface until smooth, about 5 minutes; wrap it in plastic film, and allow it to rest for 20 minutes.
Divide the dough into 4 parts. Roll out 1 part into a 6 × 8 rectangle. Brush with sesame oil and sprinkle with ¹⁄₄ cup of scallions. Roll, jelly-roll style, into a cylinder; flatten the cylinder slightly, and crimp the ends. Coil the cylinder into a disk, and crimp or pinch to seal. Repeat with remaining dough. Roll the disks into 8 pancakes.
Heat a skillet over medium heat; add 3 tablespoons of corn oil. Fry the pancakes 1 at a time, adding more oil when necessary, and keeping finished cakes warm in the oven. Serve with a sprinkling of chopped scallions.

LEEK TART

In keeping with the tradition of pies at Thanksgiving, add this savory tart to your holiday table. Leeks are available year-round.

Serves 6

¹⁄₂ recipe Basic Pie Dough (see Chapter 6)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 pounds leeks, sliced ¹⁄₄, washed very thoroughly

¹⁄₂ teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 large eggs

¹⁄₂ cup cream or half-and-half

¹⁄₄ teaspoon ground nutmeg

Heat oven to 400°F. Roll the dough to fit a 9 tart or pie pan. Set the dough in the pan; refrigerate until ready to use.
Melt the butter in a skillet and cook the leeks over low-medium heat until very soft, about 30 minutes, seasoning with ¹⁄₂ teaspoon salt and black pepper to taste. Do not brown. Whisk together the eggs, cream or half-and-half, and nutmeg; season with salt and pepper. Combine the leeks and the egg mixture, and pour into the pie shell. Bake until golden, about 25 minutes. Allow to rest 10 minutes before cutting.

CARAMELIZED PEARL ONIONS

You can use frozen pearl onions, which are already peeled, for this recipe. But the sweetness and crunch of fresh ones elevate the dish, so use them when you have the time and patience to peel for 20 minutes or so.

Serves 4

1 bag (2 cups) peeled pearl onions

2 teaspoons sugar or brown sugar

¹⁄₄ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon butter or olive oil

In a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat, combine onions, sugar, salt, and butter or olive oil with 1 cup cold water; bring to a simmer. Cook gently until all water is absorbed and onions are coated in a light glaze, about 5 minutes. Lower heat to low; cook slowly until glaze browns and onions attain golden brown appearance, about 5 minutes more. Alternative Method: Once liquid is reduced to a glaze, put the entire pan in a 350°F oven, and roast until browned.

SLOW COOKER CARAMELIZED ONIONS

Caramelized onions are a great addition to roasts, dips, and sandwiches.

Yields 1 quart

4 pounds Vidalia or other sweet onions

3 tablespoons butter or vegan margarine

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

Peel and slice the onions in ¹⁄₄ slices. Separate them into rings. Thinly slice the butter or margarine.
Place the onions into a 4-quart slow cooker. Scatter butter or margarine slices over top of the onions and drizzle with balsamic vinegar. Cover and cook on low for 10 hours.
If after 10 hours the onions are wet, turn the slow cooker up to high and cook uncovered for an additional 30 minutes, or until the liquid evaporates.

Storing Caramelized Onions

Store the onions in an airtight container. They will keep up to 2 weeks refrigerated or up to 6 months frozen. If frozen, defrost overnight in the refrigerator before using.

ONION TART

With a lightly dressed salad, this makes an excellent lunch. Experiment with your own herb combinations to make this tart your own.

Serves 8

¹⁄₂ recipe Basic Pie Dough (see Chapter 6), or 1 (9) frozen pie crust

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 cups thinly sliced onions

3 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme leaves, or other herb, such as oregano or tarragon

1 tablespoon flour

³⁄₄ cup half-and-half

¹⁄₄ cup sour cream

2 large eggs, beaten

³⁄₄ teaspoon salt

¹⁄₂ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Heat oven to 400°F. Roll the dough out to a 10 disk, and fit into a 9 tart pan or pie plate, cutting any excess from the edges or crimping in an attractive way; prick the bottom lightly with a fork in several places. Place a sheet of waxed paper on the pie shell; fill with pie beads or dried beans and “blind bake” until lightly browned, about 15 minutes; cool on a rack. If using a frozen pie crust, follow directions on the package to blind bake.
Lower oven to 350°F. Melt the butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and thyme or other herb; cook slowly until onions are soft and lightly browned, about 15 minutes. Stir in the flour and cook 1 minute more. Transfer to a mixing bowl; combine with the half-and-half, sour cream, eggs, salt, and pepper. Pour into parbaked pie shell; bake in center of oven until filling is set and lightly browned on top, about 35 minutes.

ROASTED SWEET ONIONS

The easiest recipes are sometimes the best. Choose sweet onions such as Vidalia or Texas Sweets for the most otherworldly experience.

Serves 4

4 large sweet onions, all the same size

Heat oven to 350°F. Trim the visible roots from the onions, but leave the skins on and the tops untrimmed. Place the onions root-end down in a baking dish. Roast in center of oven until onions are very soft and give easily to gentle pressure. They take between 60 and 90 minutes, depending on the size of the onions.
Peel the outer skin, but leave on the caramelized outer layers, which add extra flavor. Alternately, you could serve them in their skins and let guests unwrap them at the table.

ROASTED SHALLOTS

These sweet jewels pair surprisingly well with both Eastern and Western foods. The Thais actually use shallots as often as the French!

Serves 4

16 medium shallots, peeled, ends trimmed, root core left intact

1 teaspoon sugar

2 tablespoons olive oil

Heat oven to 350°F. Toss the shallots with the sugar to coat. Heat the oil in an oven-safe skillet over medium heat; add the shallots. Cook 1 minute, just to start the browning. Turn the shallots, and place the pan in the oven.
Roast for 30 minutes. Transfer to a plate to cool slightly. If necessary, peel off any leathery outer layers before serving.

GRILLED ONIONS WITH BALSAMIC GLAZE

The key to perfect, sweet grilled onions is slow, even cooking. They’re custom-made for the outer edges of the grill, or a grill pan over a whisper of a flame.

Serves 4

4 large sweet onions (about the size of a baseball)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 cup good quality balsamic vinegar

Leaving the skin on, cut off the polar ends of the onions, about ¹⁄₂ from the root and sprout ends. Halve the onions laterally; a sharp knife will help keep the onion sections together, which makes flipping them on the grill easier. Brush them with olive oil and sprinkle them with kosher salt and black pepper to taste. In a saucepan over medium heat, simmer the balsamic vinegar until it has cooked down to syrup.
Heat a grill or stovetop grill pan to a low heat. Place the onion slices on the grill; cook slowly without moving them until dark grill marks appear, about 15 minutes. Turn once, using both tongs and a spatula to keep the rings together. Grill until the second side is well marked and juices begin to pool on the top, another 10 minutes. Brush with balsamic syrup 5 minutes before removing from the grill. Serve brushed with remaining syrup.

GRILLED SCALLIONS

Over brown rice, with a few Japanese pickles, this is an unconventionally flavored treat.

Serves 4

16 scallions

1 tablespoon pure maple syrup

2 teaspoons Asian toasted sesame oil

A few drops Tamari soy sauce

Assorted Japanese pickles, such as pickled daikon, baby carrots, or cabbage (Korean kimchi, fermented cabbage, is also a good choice)

Prepare a grill or stovetop grill pan over medium-high heat. Trim the root ends of the scallions, and cut off all but 5 of the green parts. Whisk together the syrup and the oil. Brush the scallions with the maple mixture. Place on the grill and cook, turning regularly, until they are golden brown and tender, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a platter; drizzle with soy sauce. Serve accompanied by Japanese pickles.

LEEK POTATO CAKES

With a dollop of crème fraîche, sour cream, or applesauce, these crisp disks are a texturally pleasing and comforting component of a complete meal. These are excellent with a small salad and a wedge of soft, ripened cheese such as Camembert.

Serves 4

2 cups finely chopped leeks, white part only

2 cups finely grated peeled potatoes

¹⁄₂ teaspoon dried sage

2 large eggs, beaten

2 tablespoons flour

1 teaspoon salt

¹⁄₄ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Olive oil for frying

Wash the leeks very thoroughly to remove any grit. Combine the potatoes, leeks, sage, eggs, flour, salt, and pepper in a mixing bowl; mix well. Form into 8 (3) pancakes.
Heat ¹⁄₄ of olive oil in a heavy skillet over medium heat until a piece of leek sizzles when added. Transfer 4 of the pancakes into the pan and cook gently, without moving them, until a crisp brown crust develops, about 5 minutes. Turn, and brown the other side; drain on paper towels, and repeat with remaining cakes.

GARLIC BREAD

It is always advisable to crisp loaves of crusty bread in the oven just before serving. This simple step improves the texture and flavor of breads by slightly more than 1,000 percent. By spreading some garlic and olive oil or butter on a split loaf, you can make the bread even more scrumptious at the same time.

Serves 6–8

1 loaf Italian bread, or other crusty loaf such as a baguette

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, softened unsalted butter, or margarine

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped (about 1 tablespoon)

Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes (optional)

Heat oven to 375°F. Laterally split the loaf of bread. Whisk together the olive oil, butter, or margarine with the chopped garlic. Using a brush or a rubber spatula, generously slather both cut sides of the bread with garlic oil or butter. Sprinkle with some pepper flakes if desired. Place garlic bread halves on a sheet pan or baking dish and bake in center of oven until crisp and lightly browned, about 20 minutes.

Note: When crisping whole loaves in the oven, it is not necessary to cut them unless you’re making them into garlic bread.

BAKED PEPPERS AND ONIONS

The fruity taste of good dark green olive oil pairs very well with the taste of peppers and onions, so don’t skimp on this one—use only extra-virgin oil.

Serves 4

4 or 5 medium green and red bell peppers (about 1¹⁄₂ pounds)

1 pound small red potatoes

1 large yellow onion

¹⁄₄ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oven to 425°F. Wash the peppers and cut into 2 pieces. Scrub the potatoes and cut into 1 slices or chunks. Peel the onion and cut into chunks. Place everything into a shallow ovenproof dish; pour the olive oil over the vegetables; toss to coat. Sprinkle with the salt and lots of pepper. Bake for about 30 minutes, until the potatoes are tender.

VIDALIA ONION SALAD

Sweet onion varieties like Vidalia, Maui, Walla Walla, and Oso Sweet are so low in sulfur that they have more of a fruity taste than an “oniony” one. That makes them perfect for eating raw. Thin shavings have a pleasing crunch without the teary pungency of yellow onions.

Serves 4

1 large Vidalia or other sweet onion (about 8 ounces)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 lemon

¹⁄₄ teaspoon celery seeds

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

French bread, or other crusty bread, warmed in the oven to crisp

Slice the onion into very thin rings, almost shavings. Arrange them in an attractive mound at the center of a serving plate. Drizzle them well with olive oil and a squeeze of lemon. Shower them with celery seeds and season with salt and pepper. Allow them to rest for 30 minutes to an hour before serving with crusty bread.

CHIVE DUMPLINGS

Serve this recipe with a dumpling sauce.

Serves 6

1 cup finely diced firm tofu

1 cup finely chopped chives

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon Asian chili sauce or ¹⁄₂ teaspoon ground white pepper

1 egg white, beaten, divided

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1 package wonton skins

Combine tofu, chives, sugar, chili sauce or pepper, all but 1 teaspoon of the egg white, soy sauce, and sesame oil.
Place 2 teaspoons of filling onto a wonton skin. Use your finger to moisten the edge of the wonton skin lightly with a bit of the remaining egg white. Fold 2 opposite corners of the skin together to form a triangle shape. Seal edges together by pinching tightly with your fingers. Repeat with remaining filling and wonton wrappers, making as many triangle-shaped dumplings as filling allows. Place them on a plate dusted with cornstarch.
Bring 3 quarts water to a rapid boil. Boil the dumplings in batches. Serve.

PISSALADIÈRE

This southern French version of pizza comes from Provence, the birthplace of tapenade, the olive and anchovy spread that is the flavor base for pissaladière. This recipe makes 6–8 individual pies, but you can just as easily make it as one large one, and cut pieces for your guests.

Serves 8

1 package active dry yeast

³⁄₄ cup hot tap water

2 tablespoons olive oil, divided

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

Salt

3 white onions, cut in half through root end, then sliced into thin strips

¹⁄₂ bunch thyme

¹⁄₄ cup cornmeal

¹⁄₄ cup tapenade or olive paste (available in specialty food stores)

3 tomatoes, seeds removed, cut into neat, fine dice (¹⁄₈)

¹⁄₂ bunch parsley, chopped separately

Dissolve yeast in water, then add 1 tablespoon olive oil; gradually add flour, stirring with a wooden spoon and incorporating a sprinkling of salt, until dough can be worked on a board. Knead on floured surface until smooth. Allow to rise in an oiled bowl in a warm place until double in size (about 1 hour).
Sauté the onions with the thyme in 1 tablespoon olive oil until evenly browned (caramelized). Roll out dough very thin (¹⁄₁₆" thick) on a floured surface. Using a 5-diameter cookie cutter or a coffee can, cut 8 disks of dough and place them on a baking sheet generously dusted with cornmeal. Brush with olive oil. Spread about 2 teaspoons tapenade onto each disk, leaving a ¹⁄₂ border around the edge. Sprinkle on 2 tablespoons caramelized onions and a smattering of tomato dice.
Bake in very hot (450°F) oven until the crust is crisp and golden brown, about 20 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley and serve hot.

PICKLED RED ONIONS

Crunchy and beautifully pink, these pair as perfectly with summer grain salads, such as Succotash Salad (see Chapter 3), as they do with polenta and a wild mushroom sauté.

Serves 8

2 large red onions, thinly sliced

1 quart boiling water

¹⁄₂ cup white wine vinegar

¹⁄₂ cup cold water

¹⁄₂ cup honey

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

¹⁄₂ teaspoon whole allspice (optional)

Place the sliced onions in a bowl; pour the boiling water over them and allow them to steep for 5 minutes; drain. Whisk together the vinegar, cold water, honey, salt, peppercorns, and allspice, if desired. Add the onions, and allow them to marinate for 10 minutes. Transfer to a jar, cover tightly, and refrigerate until very cold. These pickled onions will keep for several months, and get better with age.

DUXELLES

This chopped mushroom spread is a classic French preparation. Chefs use it as a filling for turnovers, stuffed vegetables, savory strudels, and a zillion other things. It makes an excellent spread on crusts of baguette, and is fine in sandwiches.

Yields about 1 cup

1 (10-ounce) package mushrooms

1 tablespoon olive oil

3 shallots, chopped (about ¹⁄₂ cup)

¹⁄₂ teaspoon salt

¹⁄₄ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¹⁄₄ cup dry white wine

1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley

Chop the mushrooms finely (this is best done by hand, but may be done by pulsing them in batches of no more than 5 in a food processor until they’re chopped, but not puréed).
Heat oil in a medium skillet over medium heat until a piece of shallot sizzles. Add the shallots and salt; cook until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and black pepper; cook until the mushrooms have given up their liquid and the pan is almost dry, 5–7 minutes. Add the wine and cook until almost dry, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat; stir in chopped parsley.

RISOTTO WITH PORTOBELLO MUSHROOMS, ONIONS, AND GARLIC

This risotto is great as a main dish, but can also be served as a side.

Serves 4

4 large portobello mushrooms with stems

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

4 large white onions, finely chopped

10 cloves garlic, finely chopped

Salt, to taste

1 cup arborio rice

5 cups vegetable stock or water

2 tablespoons grated imported Parmesan cheese, preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano

Freshly ground black pepper

1 bunch scallions, finely chopped

Scented olive oil, such as truffle oil, garlic oil, or herb oil (or very good extra-virgin olive oil)

Finely chop the stems of the mushrooms. Set the caps aside. In a large saucepan, melt 5 tablespoons of the butter, and sauté the onions and garlic over medium heat until translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the chopped mushroom stems, and sauté a minute longer. Season with salt.
Add the rice. Stir well to coat, then add 1 cup of stock or water and stir until the liquid is mostly absorbed. Add another cup of stock or water, stirring constantly, and allow the rice to absorb it. Continue adding liquid cup by cup, until all liquid is used and rice is tender, but still a little firm to the bite in the middle (about 25 minutes). Stir in remaining 1 tablespoon butter and cheese, and season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Set aside.
Slice the portobello caps paper-thin. Divide risotto into 4 bowls, immediately sprinkle with the shaved portobellos, and garnish with scallions and a drizzle (about 2 teaspoons) of truffle oil (or other flavored oil).

CREAMED MORELS AND ASPARAGUS TIPSIN VOL-AU-VENTS

Serve immediately so filling is hot.

Serves 6

1 (8-ounce) sheet puff pastry cut into 8 rectangular pieces, brushed with egg wash

2 tablespoons chopped shallots

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

14 fresh morels, cut into small pieces

¹⁄₄ cup Madeira wine

¹⁄₂ cup strong vegetable stock

¹⁄₂ cup cream

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon chopped fresh chives

24–30 cooked, pencil-thin asparagus tips

Arrange puff pastry rectangles on a baking sheet, spaced 1 apart. Bake at 400°F until highly puffed and the domed top is golden brown, about 20 minutes; set on a rack to cool. Halve the cooked vol-au-vents (the puffed pastries) laterally.
Sauté shallots in butter over medium heat until translucent (3 minutes). Add morels and cook for 5 minutes. Add Madeira. Simmer until volume is roughly halved, about 5 minutes more. Add stock and cook until almost dry. Add cream; simmer until sauce consistency thickens to coat the back of a spoon. Season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle in chives. Set the bottom halves of the puff pastry vol-au-vents onto serving plates. Spoon creamed morels over each bottom, allowing some to overflow. Top each with 4 asparagus tips, and cover with pastry tops.

FETTUCCINE WITH MORELS AND SPRING ONIONS

Long pieces of onion pair nicely with the shape of this pasta.

Serves 4

1 sprig fresh rosemary

8 ounces fresh morels, halved

2 teaspoons olive oil

6 spring onions or scallions cut into 1 pieces

¹⁄₂ pound imported fettuccine, cooked al dente, drained and tossed with a few drops of olive oil

1–2 cups strong vegetable stock

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 tablespoon chopped Italian (flat-leaf) parsley

In a skillet large enough to hold all ingredients, sauté the rosemary and morels in olive oil over medium heat for 5 minutes, until soft. Add the spring onions and sauté another 1 minute.
Add the cooked fettuccine, 1 cup of vegetable stock, and the butter, and simmer until sauce is creamy and adhering well to the pasta. Adjust consistency with remaining stock, season to taste, and serve sprinkled with chopped parsley, and Parmesan cheese if desired.

POLENTA-STYLE GRITS WITH WILD MUSHROOM RAGOUT

Cooked yellow cornmeal, known as polenta, is still poured directly onto the center of the wooden table (tavola) in some farmhouses in Italy. It is then topped with a stew or ragout, and family members draw whatever portion they want from the common “pot.”

Serves 4

3¹⁄₂ cups Mushroom Vegetable Stock (see Chapter 5) or water

1 cup grits

1 pound assorted mushrooms

8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter, cut into small pieces

1¹⁄₂ teaspoons plus 2 pinches salt

¹⁄₄ of a small lemon

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme (or ¹⁄₂ teaspoon dried)

2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary (or ¹⁄₂ teaspoon dried)

1 tablespoon cornstarch dissolved in ¹⁄₄ cup cold water

¹⁄₄ cup grated Parmesan cheese

Freshly ground black pepper

Roughly chopped Italian (flat-leaf) parsley

Bring 3 cups of the stock to a boil, then stir in the grits in a steady stream. Lower flame and set to simmer very slowly, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon. Beware of splashing, since the stuff is molten lava at this point. Keep an eye on it while preparing the mushrooms. Cook for about 30 minutes.
Clean mushrooms as best you can without running under water, using a brush or paper towel. Heat a heavy skillet over a high flame until very hot, then add the mushrooms to the dry pan. Toss in ¹⁄₂ of the butter and allow it to melt under the mushrooms without shaking the pan (this helps them brown) for 2–3 minutes. Add 2 pinches of salt, a squeeze of lemon, the thyme and rosemary, and stir.
Add ¹⁄₂ cup stock to the mushrooms and swirl in the dissolved cornstarch. Simmer 1–2 minutes to cook out the starch, then set aside, covered.
Finish the grits by stirring in the remaining ¹⁄₂ stick of butter, grated cheese, and seasoning with 1¹⁄₂ teaspoons salt. A wooden spoon should stand up in the finished grits. To serve, portion grits onto 4 appetizer plates, make a depression on top of each portion, and spoon ¹⁄₄ of the mushroom sauté onto each. Top with fresh ground black pepper and a sprinkling of chopped parsley.

JOSH’S MUSHROOM DIP

This dish is great when served with raw veggies or pita chips!

Serves 8

1 teaspoon olive oil

1 large portobello cap

1 (10-ounce) package white mushrooms

¹⁄₂ packet dried onion soup mix

1 pint sour cream

8 cups assorted raw vegetables, such as carrots, celery, mixed bell peppers, zucchini, and yellow squash, cut into sticks

Heat the olive oil in a small skillet over medium-high heat; cook the portobello until tender, about 5 minutes. Cool it and chop it finely. Chop the white mushrooms finely, either by hand or by pulsing in a food processor in batches of 5 at a time.
Stir the onion soup mix into the sour cream. Fold in the chopped mushrooms. Transfer to a bowl and serve surrounded by raw vegetables for dipping.

PORTOBELLO PITA WITH BUCKWHEAT AND BEANS

While buckwheat is actually a seed, not a grain, it has an earthy taste and pilaf-like texture that complete this earthy main-course sandwich.

Serves 4

4 medium-size portobello mushrooms, stems removed

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon olive oil

4 pita pocket breads, medium-size (about 8)

2 tablespoons mayonnaise or soy mayo

1 cup buckwheat groats or medium-granulation kasha, cooked according to directions on package

¹⁄₄ pound cooked green beans

Brush the portobello caps clean (do not wash under water); season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a large skillet until very hot, but not quite smoking. Cook the mushrooms top-side down over high heat until cooked through, about 4 minutes. Small pools of juice should appear where the stem was removed.
Cut an opening in a pita; slather the inside with mayonnaise. Spoon in a layer of cooked buckwheat groats or kasha, and add ¹⁄₄ of the green beans. Stuff in 1 mushroom cap. Repeat with remaining pitas.

GRILLED MARINATED PORTOBELLO MUSHROOMS

Main-course mushrooms like these go with anything from summer salads to wintry wild rice dishes. They’re one of the best vegetarian dinners to pair with red wine. If you don’t have a grill, bake the mushrooms on a sheet pan in a 400°F oven for about 10 minutes.

Serves 4

4 large (4–6 in diameter) portobello mushrooms, stems removed

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon sugar

¹⁄₂ cup chopped fresh herbs (such as parsley, chives, tarragon, oregano) or 1 tablespoon dried herbs

Brush any dirt from the mushrooms, but do not wash them under water. Whisk together the olive oil, vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, and herbs. If using dried herbs, allow the mixture to steep for 15 minutes. In a shallow dish, pour the marinade over the mushrooms; marinate 10 minutes, turning occasionally.
Grill 2–3 minutes on each side. Serve whole or sliced. Sauce with leftover marinade, or save the marinade for another batch.

MUSHROOM-SPELT SAUTÉ

Spelt, wheat berries (sold in Hispanic markets as trigo), or barley make great whole-grain alternatives to rice.

Serves 4

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 large onion, diced

2 cloves garlic, chopped

Kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper

1 (10-ounce) package mushrooms, sliced

¹⁄₄ cup dry sherry or white wine (optional)

2 cups cooked spelt (available at health food stores), wheat berries, or barley

Heat the olive oil in a skillet over high heat until it shimmers and a piece of onion sizzles in it. Add the onion and garlic; sprinkle with a little salt and pepper and cook for 5 minutes, until translucent. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until some browning occurs, about 5 minutes; add the sherry, or white wine, if desired, and cook until it has almost all evaporated, 2–3 minutes. Add the spelt, wheat berries, or barley and cook until heated through; season to taste.

CHINESE THREE SLIVERS

The silky texture of slender, white enoki mushrooms contrasts here with crunchy bamboo and “meaty” bean curd. Advertising idea-man Tuan-Pu Wang, who introduced me to this dish, told me that the Chinese characters for it mean “three slivers.” His creative touch was to serve the dish “taco style,” wrapped in a crisp lettuce leaf.

Serves 4

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 can (4 ounces) sliced bamboo shoots, drained and rinsed

3 cakes (about 8 ounces) hard tofu, sliced into ¹⁄₄ strips, patted dry with paper towel

1 package enoki mushrooms, roots trimmed, washed, and broken into individual strands

¹⁄₄ cup Asian dumpling sauce (available in Asian markets) or other Asian dipping sauce

¹⁄₂ teaspoon sambal or other Asian chili paste (optional)

1 tablespoon cornstarch dissolved in 2 tablespoons cold water

1 head iceberg lettuce

Heat the oil in a skillet or wok until very hot but not smoky. Add the bamboo shoots and cook for 1 minute. Slide the tofu into the pan and cook over high heat without stirring until lightly browned. Add the enoki mushrooms, dumpling sauce, chili paste, and cornstarch solution. Cook until thick, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a serving bowl.
Select 4 unbroken leaves from the lettuce head; wash thoroughly and tear them in half. Place the bowl of cooked Chinese vegetables in the center of a large serving platter, and arrange the lettuce pieces around it. Guests spoon filling into the leaves and eat the lettuce wraps with their hands.

CHINESE BLACK MUSHROOMS WITH JADE BOK CHOY

The black mushrooms’ smooth skin passes from soft to silky in the delicate sauce made from their soaking liquid, lending an almost sensual texture. Youthful, watery “jade,” or “Shanghai,” baby bok choy is increasingly available in produce markets, but plain old white bok choy is fine for its crunchy counterpoint.

Serves 4

20 dried black Chinese mushrooms, soaked overnight in 4 cups of water

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

3 cloves garlic, chopped (about 4 teaspoons)

¹⁄₄ cup soy sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

1 pound baby jade bok choy heads, halved, or regular bok choy, cut into 1 chunks

2 tablespoons cornstarch dissolved in ¹⁄₂ cup cold water

Few drops Asian toasted sesame oil (optional)

Pour the soaking liquid through a strainer or cheesecloth; set aside. Discard the stems from the mushrooms.
Heat the oil in a skillet or wok until a piece of vegetable sizzles in it. Add the garlic and the mushrooms; sauté for 5 minutes. Add 2 cups of the mushroom soaking liquid; bring to a simmer, and cook 15 minutes over low flame. Add the soy sauce, sugar, and bok choy; raise heat and cook until bok choy is tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the cornstarch solution; cook until thick, about 2 minutes more. Remove from heat and sprinkle with a few drops of sesame oil, if desired.

TAIWANESE MUSHROOM EGG

This dish uses only the egg whites and a sweet “mayonnaise,” also egg whites only.

Serves 4

6 hard-boiled eggs

2 teaspoons vegetable oil

12 shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, diced ¹⁄₄

1 egg white

1 teaspoon sugar

¹⁄₄ teaspoon salt

¹⁄₂ teaspoon rice vinegar or white vinegar

¹⁄₃ cup peanut oil

1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives

Carefully halve the eggs lengthwise and discard the yolks; rinse out the whites. Heat the vegetable oil in a skillet and cook the mushrooms until well wilted, about 5 minutes; transfer to a plate to cool.
In a food processor on high speed, combine the egg white, sugar, salt, and vinegar. With the motor running, gradually incorporate the oil until a thick white mayonnaise is formed. Mix 2 tablespoons of this white mayonnaise with the cooked mushrooms. Spoon this mixture into the egg halves, allowing the filling to mound generously. Sprinkle the tops with chopped chives. Serve 3 per person.

SPRING MUSHROOM RISOTTO WITH MORELS AND ASPARAGUS

This woodsy risotto is perfect to serve on a crisp fall night.

Serves 6

¹⁄₂ pound medium-thick asparagus, woody lower parts removed, cut into 1 pieces

6 ounces fresh morels (or 2 ounces dried morels, soaked, liquid reserved), halved, and bottoms snipped

2 tablespoons butter, divided

Kosher salt and pepper to taste

1 medium onion, roughly chopped

6 ounces white mushrooms, sliced

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

2 tablespoons olive oil

1¹⁄₂ cups arborio rice

¹⁄₂ cup dry white wine

5 cups hot Mushroom Vegetable Stock (see Chapter 5)

¹⁄₄ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1 lemon wedge

1 tablespoon chopped chives

Cook the asparagus pieces in boiling salted water until tender (about 4 minutes), drain, and set aside. Sauté morels in 1 tablespoon butter, seasoning liberally with kosher salt, until soft (about 5 minutes); set aside.
In a heavy-bottomed pot, gently sweat the onion, white mushrooms, and garlic in olive oil over medium heat until translucent, then stir in the rice with a wooden spoon until it is well coated with onion juices. Pour in the wine and stir constantly until it is absorbed.
Add 1 cup of the stock and stir constantly until it is absorbed. Repeat with the remaining stock, 1 cup at a time, until the rice is mostly tender, and has a saucy consistency (about 20 to 25 minutes).
Remove from heat, stir in the cheese and the remaining 1 tablespoon butter. Stir in the morels, asparagus, and a squeeze of lemon. Season to taste, and serve sprinkled with chives and extra Parmesan.

MUSHROOM BRUSCHETTA

This earthy bruschetta is great as an appetizer.

Serves 4

1 baguette or crusty country bread

4 teaspoons Aioli (see Chapter 2) or mayonnaise mixed with chopped garlic

8 ounces white mushrooms, plus ¹⁄₄ pound mixed specialty mushrooms such as oyster, shiitake, enoki, or portobello (optional)

2 tablespoons olive oil (or butter; not vegan)

1 teaspoon mixed dried herbs, such as thyme, oregano, rosemary, and basil

Juice of ¹⁄₂ lemon

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Fresh chopped parsley or chives (optional)

Heat a stovetop grill (or an oven to 400°F). Slice the bread on a diagonal into 8 (1 thick) oblong slices; spread the Aioli onto both sides of each slice. Grill or bake the bread slices until dark brown marks decorate their faces, top and bottom. Transfer to a serving plate.
Cut the mushrooms into large, uneven chunks and slices, and mix all the varieties together. Warm a large, heavy skillet over high heat. Add the mushrooms to the dry pan all at once, then add the olive oil or butter; sprinkle the herbs on top. Cook without stirring for the first 4–5 minutes, allowing the mushrooms to get a brown crust. After 5 minutes, stir to mix in the herbs and cook until the accumulating liquid is mostly evaporated. Season well with lemon, salt, and pepper. Spoon onto the grilled bread and garnish with chopped parsley or chives if desired.

MUSHROOM-BARLEY “RISOTTO”

The saucy, resilient texture of risotto pairs with the nutty earthiness of barley when the barley is prepared risotto-style like this.

Serves 4

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 large onion, chopped (about 2 cups)

¹⁄₂ teaspoon garlic powder, or 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary, or 1 teaspoon dried

1 pound cremini or white mushrooms, sliced

1 teaspoon salt, and additional salt to taste

1 cup pearl barley

¹⁄₂ cup white wine

5 cups Mushroom Vegetable Stock (see Chapter 5) or other broth

Juice of 1 lemon

Pepper to taste

Chopped chives or Italian parsley

Parmesan cheese (optional)

Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven or saucepan over medium-high heat; add the onion, garlic, and rosemary. Cook 5 minutes, until onions are translucent; add the mushrooms and salt. Cook 5 minutes more, until the mushrooms have wilted a bit; add the barley.
Cook, stirring regularly, until the barley is well coated. Add the wine; cook until alcohol has evaporated, about 5 minutes. Stir in 1 cup of stock or broth; cook, stirring until it is absorbed. Repeat with remaining stock or broth, adding it in 1-cup increments and cooking until it’s absorbed—about 20 minutes. Adjust seasoning with lemon, salt, and pepper. Transfer to wide soup plates. Garnish with chopped chives or parsley. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese on the side, if desired.

OVEN-ROASTED MUSHROOMS

Roasting intensifies the flavor of these savory herbed mushrooms, making them an excellent topping for whole grains like brown rice, barley, or wheat berries.

Serves 4

1 pound white, cremini, or shiitake mushrooms

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried

¹⁄₂ teaspoon salt

Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes

Chopped Italian parsley

1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar or lemon juice

Heat oven to 400°F. If using shiitakes, remove stems. In a bowl, combine mushrooms, olive oil, thyme, salt, and red pepper flakes; toss to coat. Spread in a single layer in a roasting pan. Roast in center of oven for 30 minutes, until nicely browned. Toss with parsley and vinegar or lemon juice. Serve hot or room temperature.

VEGETABLE-STUFFED PORTOBELLO MUSHROOMS

Fork-and-knife mushrooms like portobellos are attractive and easy to serve. These can be made up to one day in advance and kept in the refrigerator before the final cooking step.

Serves 4

16 bite-size broccoli florets

2 tablespoons olive oil, divided

1 medium onion, chopped

10 ounces washed spinach leaves

Salt and pepper to taste

1 tablespoon heavy cream

1¹⁄₂ cups shredded Gruyère or Emmentaler cheese

4 large portobello mushrooms

Blanch the broccoli florets in boiling salted water and shock them in ice water. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium heat in a skillet and cook the onion until translucent, 5 minutes. Add the spinach, season with salt and pepper, and cook until spinach is wilted. Transfer to a plate to cool, and then squeeze any excess water from the spinach. In a food processor or with a knife, finely chop the spinach, and mix in the cream and ²⁄₃ of the cheese. Taste for salt.
Remove the mushroom stems; scoop out some of the dark ribs in the center of the caps. Divide the spinach-cheese mixture into the mushroom caps. Arrange 4 broccoli florets into a tight bouquet in the center of the cap, planting the stem deep in the spinach filling. Mushrooms can be cooked now, or refrigerated for cooking later.
Heat the broiler. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet. Transfer the stuffed mushrooms to the pan, cover, and cook over medium heat for 10–15 minutes, or until cooked through. Uncover, sprinkle with remaining cheese, and broil until cheese is molten and bubbly.

CREAMED MUSHROOMS

For a decadent sense of luxury, nothing compares with the silky-rich taste of mushrooms in a mushroom-flavored cream sauce. This dish is delicious over polenta, poured over toasted bread for luscious open-faced sandwiches, or as part of a vegetarian sampler plate, with sweet glazed carrots, steamed snow peas, and crisp onion rings.

Serves 6–8

1 tablespoon finely chopped shallot or onion

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

10 ounces domestic or wild mushrooms (ceps, or porcinis, are exquisite prepared this way), sliced

¹⁄₂ teaspoon salt, and some pepper to taste

1 cup cream, plus 2 tablespoons

Lemon juice (optional)

In a heavy skillet, cook the shallot or onion in the butter for 1 minute; add the mushrooms, salt, and pepper. Cook until mushrooms have given up their water, and most of it has evaporated.
Add the cream; simmer until the cream has reduced almost to nothing. Remove pan from heat; stir in remaining 2 tablespoons of cream. A drop of lemon juice may be added to accentuate the flavor, if desired.

MUSHROOM-TOFU STIR-FRY

Dried Chinese black mushrooms make their own delicious stock when you soak them.

Serves 4

10 Chinese dried black mushrooms or ¹⁄₂ pound fresh shiitakes

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 medium onion, halved and sliced lengthwise

1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger

1 bunch scallions, chopped

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

¹⁄₂ teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons hoisin sauce mixed with ¹⁄₂ teaspoon Asian sesame oil

¹⁄₂ teaspoon rice vinegar or white wine vinegar

1¹⁄₂ teaspoons cornstarch, dissolved in 1 tablespoon of mushroom soaking liquid or water

20 ounces of silken tofu, cut into cubes

Soak the mushrooms in 4 cups of hot water for at least 20 minutes, or overnight. Pour off and reserve the liquid. Remove the stems and slice the mushrooms thickly (¹⁄₄). Heat the oil in a large skillet; add the onions, ginger, scallions, and garlic. Cook until the onions are translucent, about 5 minutes; add 1 cup of mushroom soaking liquid. Add salt, hoisin mix, and vinegar; stir, and simmer 5 minutes. Stir in the cornstarch.
Spoon the tofu cubes onto the top of the cooking vegetables. Cover, and cook slowly until the tofu is hot, about 5 minutes. Serve with steaming hot brown rice.

MUSHROOM TURNOVERS (EMPANADAS)

Tailor these savory pastry pockets to your own taste. You may like to add cheese, or other sautéed vegetables—go ahead.

Serves 8

1 recipe Basic Pie Dough (see Chapter 6) or 1 package frozen puff pastry

1 recipe Creamed Mushrooms (see recipe in this chapter) or mushrooms from Step 2 of Polenta-Style Grits with Wild Mushroom Ragout (see recipe in this chapter)

1 egg, beaten

¹⁄₄ cup milk

Heat oven to 350°F. Roll the dough to medium thickness (about the thickness of the cover of a hardcover book). Use an empty can or other cutter to stamp out 16 (5-diameter) disks. Spoon 2 tablespoons mushroom filling onto the center of each disk. Moisten the edge of the disks very slightly, fold the disk to form a half-moon, and crimp shut with the tines of a fork. Combine the egg and milk, and brush this egg wash onto the tops of the turnovers. Transfer them to a baking sheet.
Bake for 25–30 minutes, until plump and golden brown.

PICKLED MUSHROOMS

As a snack or as part of a dinner buffet, pickled mushrooms bring an attractive piquancy to the table. They keep refrigerated for weeks.

Serves 8

1¹⁄₂ pounds small white mushrooms, halved

3 medium carrots, peeled and cut into julienne

1 tablespoon olive oil

¹⁄₂ cup canned pimento (red peppers), cut into 1 × ¹⁄₂ strips

¹⁄₂ teaspoon oregano

¹⁄₂ teaspoon garlic powder

¹⁄₄ cup cider vinegar

¹⁄₂ teaspoon salt

¹⁄₄ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Boil the mushrooms and the carrots separately; drain. Heat the oil in a medium skillet. Cook the carrots in the oil for 3 minutes; add the mushrooms. Cook 3 minutes more; add the pimento, oregano, garlic powder, cider vinegar, salt, and pepper. Cook until everything is heated through. Refrigerate for 24 hours before serving.

WARM OYSTER MUSHROOM SALAD

This variation on a popular salad from New York’s Orso restaurant can be served warm or room temperature. If you can’t grill or broil the mushrooms and onions, sauté them in very hot olive oil instead.

Serves 4

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

1 tablespoon good quality balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 medium red onions, peeled, cut into 12 (1) rings

¹⁄₂ pound oyster mushrooms, root ends trimmed, in small bunches

6 ounces frisée, chicory, or other resilient salad green

Whisk together 2 tablespoons olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and shallots; season with salt and pepper.
Heat a grill, stovetop grill pan, or broiler. Toss the onions and oyster mushrooms, separately, with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Season them with salt and pepper, and grill or broil separately. The mushrooms will cook quickly—in about 2 minutes. The onions will take longer—about 5 minutes. Spoon some of the dressing onto the hot mushrooms and onions, and use the rest to dress the greens. Arrange the hot vegetables atop the greens and serve.

MUSHROOM-LEEK TART

Savory pies are common in Italy and France, but with the exception of quiche, not too well known here. It’s a shame, because they make beautiful presentations, and with the right ingredients they’re unforgettable. This one is French in origin.

Serves 6

1 recipe Basic Pie Dough (see Chapter 6)

1 large egg

1 teaspoon milk

5 or 6 leeks, white parts only, chopped and washed twice

1 teaspoon sage

1 cup heavy cream

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 package (10 ounces) white mushrooms, sliced

Roll out the pie bottom very thin, and press it into a 10 pie pan, leaving excess hanging over the rim of the pan. Roll out the pie top into an 11 round and place onto a floured sheet pan. Refrigerate both parts until needed. Whisk together the egg and milk.
Heat oven to 400°F. In a heavy skillet over medium heat, cook the leeks in a few drops of water until they’re bright green, about 3 minutes; transfer to a plate to cool. In a bowl, combine the leeks with the sage, cream, salt, pepper, and mushrooms; mix well. Fill the pie bottom with the vegetable mixture. Brush the rim with egg wash and carefully place the top onto the pie (it’s easiest if you fold it into quarters, then unfold it onto the pie). Brush the top well with egg wash, and cut a few vents with scissors or a knife. Bake in center of oven until golden and bubbly, about 35 minutes. Cool for 10–15 minutes before cutting into wedges.

MUSHROOM BARLEY

You’ll be inspired by the amazing flavors in this dish!

Serves 8

1 mushroom-vegetable bouillon cube (Telma makes these—they’re vegetarian, and usually sold with Jewish foods in the supermarket)

Kosher salt

1 (12-ounce) package barley-shaped egg noodle (both Goodman’s and Manischewitz make this pasta, usually sold in the “Jewish Ingredients” section of the supermarket)

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large onion, diced

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 package (10 ounces) mushrooms, sliced

Bring 8 cups water to a boil; add the bouillon cube, 1 teaspoon salt, and the pasta. Cook until tender, about 10–15 minutes. Drain.
Heat the olive oil in a large heavy skillet for 1 minute over high heat; add the onion. Cook 5 minutes, until translucent. Add 1 teaspoon salt and the garlic powder; cook a minute more; add the mushrooms. Cook over high heat for 5–7 minutes more, until mushrooms have given up their liquid and most has evaporated. Toss the mushroom mixture with the cooked pasta.

MUSHROOM AND OLIVE BLEND

Try serving on top of toasted baguette slices or on pasta or as a savory side dish.

Serves 6

2 tablespoons butter or vegan margarine

1 clove garlic, minced

¹⁄₂ cup sliced shiitake mushrooms

¹⁄₂ cup sliced oyster mushrooms

¹⁄₂ cup chopped hen-of-the-woods mushrooms

¹⁄₄ cup pitted and sliced Kalamata olives

¹⁄₂ teaspoon salt

¹⁄₄ teaspoon pepper

Add all ingredients to a 2-quart slow cooker, cover and cook on low heat for 2 hours. Stir occasionally to make sure the butter or margarine is coating the mushrooms.

Mushroom Varieties

Hen-of-the-woods mushrooms are also called maitake mushrooms, and grow in clusters. If you can’t find this variety, you can substitute ¹⁄₂ cup more shiitake or oyster mushrooms.

CHAPTER 10ONIONS, MUSHROOMS, AND TRUFFLES

JUMBO BEER-BATTERED ONION RINGS

Serves 4

STUFFED ONIONS

Serves 4

BRAISED LEEKS

Serves 4

GRILLED LEEKS WITH TARRAGON AND LEMON

Serves 4

SCALLION PANCAKES

Serves 4

LEEK TART

Serves 6

CARAMELIZED PEARL ONIONS

Serves 4

SLOW COOKER CARAMELIZED ONIONS

Yields 1 quart

Storing Caramelized Onions

ONION TART

Serves 8

ROASTED SWEET ONIONS

Serves 4

ROASTED SHALLOTS

Serves 4

GRILLED ONIONS WITH BALSAMIC GLAZE

Serves 4

GRILLED SCALLIONS

Serves 4

LEEK POTATO CAKES

Serves 4

GARLIC BREAD

Serves 6–8

BAKED PEPPERS AND ONIONS

Serves 4

VIDALIA ONION SALAD

Serves 4

CHIVE DUMPLINGS

Serves 6

PISSALADIÈRE

Serves 8

PICKLED RED ONIONS

Serves 8

DUXELLES

Yields about 1 cup

RISOTTO WITH PORTOBELLO MUSHROOMS, ONIONS, AND GARLIC

Serves 4

CREAMED MORELS AND ASPARAGUS TIPSIN VOL-AU-VENTS

Serves 6

FETTUCCINE WITH MORELS AND SPRING ONIONS

Serves 4

POLENTA-STYLE GRITS WITH WILD MUSHROOM RAGOUT

Serves 4

JOSH’S MUSHROOM DIP

Serves 8

PORTOBELLO PITA WITH BUCKWHEAT AND BEANS

Serves 4

GRILLED MARINATED PORTOBELLO MUSHROOMS

Serves 4

MUSHROOM-SPELT SAUTÉ

Serves 4

CHINESE THREE SLIVERS

Serves 4

CHINESE BLACK MUSHROOMS WITH JADE BOK CHOY

Serves 4

TAIWANESE MUSHROOM EGG

Serves 4

SPRING MUSHROOM RISOTTO WITH MORELS AND ASPARAGUS

Serves 6

MUSHROOM BRUSCHETTA

Serves 4

MUSHROOM-BARLEY “RISOTTO”

Serves 4

OVEN-ROASTED MUSHROOMS

Serves 4

VEGETABLE-STUFFED PORTOBELLO MUSHROOMS

Serves 4

CREAMED MUSHROOMS

Serves 6–8

MUSHROOM-TOFU STIR-FRY

Serves 4

CHAPTER 10
ONIONS, MUSHROOMS, AND TRUFFLES