Shipwreck on the coast of Lāna‘i.
Lāna‘i is deliciously remote: The island’s tiny airport doesn’t accommodate direct flights from the Mainland and its closest neighbor is a 45-minute ferry ride away. It’s almost as if this quiet, gentle oasis—known for both its small-town feel and celebrity appeal—demands that visitors go to great lengths to get here in order to better appreciate it.
Essentials
Arriving
By Plane If you’re coming from outside Hawai‘i, you’ll have to make a connection on O‘ahu (Honolulu/HNL) or Maui (Kahului/OGG or Kapalua/JHM), where you can catch a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it flight to Lāna‘i’s airport. You’ll touch down in Palawai Basin, once the world’s largest pineapple plantation; it’s about 10 minutes by car to Lāna‘i City and 25 minutes to Mānele Bay.
Hawaiian Airlines (www.hawaiianairlines.com; 
800/367-5320) operates ‘Ohana by Hawaiian, a fleet of pretty turboprop planes that fly direct from Honolulu to Lāna‘i. The small commuter airlines, Island Air (www.islandair.com; 800/652-6541) and Mokulele Airlines (www.mokuleleairlines.com; 866/260-7070), have both recently suspended general flights to Lāna‘i, but double-check to see if service has been reinstated. Mokulele Airlines offers charter flights to the island on nine-passenger Cessna Grand Caravan planes.
By Boat A round-trip on Expeditions Lahaina/Lāna‘i Passenger Ferry (http://go-lanai.com; 800/695-2624) takes you between Maui and Lāna‘i for $30 adults and $20 children each way. The ferry runs five times a day, 365 days a year, between Lahaina (on Maui) and Lāna‘i’s Mānele Bay harbor. The 9-mile channel crossing takes 45 minutes to an hour, depending on sea conditions. Reservations are strongly recommended; call or book online. Baggage is limited to two checked bags and one carry-on. Bonus: During the winter months, taking the ferry amounts to a free whale-watch.
Visitor Information
Lāna‘i Visitors Bureau, 1727 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, Maui 96793 (www.gohawaii.com/lanai; 800/947-4774 or 808/565-7600), and the Hawai‘i Visitors & Convention Bureau (www.gohawaii.com; 800/GO-HAWAII or 808/923-1811) provide brochures, maps, and island guides.
With barely 30 miles of paved road and not a single stoplight, Lāna‘i (pronounced “lah-nigh-ee”) is unspoiled by what passes for progress. It’s a place of surreal juxtapositions. Much of the island is still untamed, except for a tiny 1920s-era plantation village and two first-class luxury hotels.
Inhabited Lāna‘i is divided into two regions: Lāna‘i City, up on the mountain where the weather is cool and misty, and Mānele, on the sunny southwestern coast where the weather is hot and dry.
Lāna‘i City (pop. 3,200) sits at the heart of the island at 1,645 feet above sea level. It’s the only place on Lāna‘i that offers services (gas and groceries), and the airport is just outside of town. Built in 1924, this plantation village is a tidy grid of quaint tin-roofed cottages in bright pastels, with backyard gardens of banana, passionfruit, and papaya. Many of the residents are Filipino immigrants who once toiled in Lāna‘i’s pineapple fields. Their humble homes, now worth $500,000 or more (for a 1,500-sq.-ft. home, built in 1935, on a 6,000-sq.-ft. lot), are excellent examples of historic preservation; the whole town looks like it’s been kept under a bell jar.
Plantation houses in Lāna‘i.
Around Dole Park, a charming village square lined with towering Norfolk and Cook pines, plantation buildings house general stores, a post office (where people stop to chat), two banks, a half-dozen restaurants, an art gallery, an art center, a few boutiques, and a coffee shop that easily outshines any Starbucks. The historic one-room police station displays a “jail” consisting of three padlocked, outhouse-size cells as a throwback to earlier times. The new station—a block away, with regulation-size jail cells—probably sees just as little action.
Just up the road from Dole Park is the Lodge at Ko‘ele (owned by Larry Ellison, managed by the Four Seasons, and closed at the time of publication). The stately resort stands alone on a knoll overlooking pastures and the sea at the edge of a pine forest, like a grand European manor.
Mānele is directly downhill—comprised of Mānele Bay (with its small boat harbor), Hulopo‘e Beach, and the island’s other bastion of extravagance, the Four Seasons Resort Lāna‘i. You’ll see more of “typical” Hawai‘i here—sandy beach, swaying palms, and superlative sunsets.
With a population of just over 3,000, everybody knows everybody here. The minute you arrive on island, you’ll feel the small-town coziness. People wave to passing cars, residents stop to talk with friends, and fishing and gardening are considered top priorities in life. Leaving the keys in your car’s ignition is standard practice.
Lāna‘i hasn’t always been so welcoming. Early Hawaiians believed the island was haunted by Pahulu (the god of nightmares) and spirits so wily and vicious that no human could survive here. But many have, for the past 1,000 years. Remnants of ancient Hawaiian villages, temples, fishponds, and petroglyphs decorate the Lāna‘i landscape. King Kamehameha spent his summers here at a cliffside palace overlooking the sunny southern coast.
The island’s arid terrain was once native forest—patches of which persist on the 3,379-foot summit of Lāna‘ihale—along with native birds, insects, and jewel-like tree snails. But the 1800s brought foreign ambitions and foreign strife to Hawai‘i: Disease took more than half of her native people, and Western commerce supplanted the islanders’ subsistence culture. Exotic pests such as rats, mosquitos, and feral goats and cattle decimated the native ecosystem and the island’s watershed. Various entrepreneurs tried to make their fortune here, farming sugarcane, cotton, sisal, or sugar beets. All failed, mostly for lack of water.
Jim Dole was the first to have real commercial success here. In 1921, he bought the island for $1.1 million. He built Lāna‘i City, blasted out a harbor, and turned the island into a fancy fruit plantation. For 70 years, the island was essentially one big pineapple patch. Acres of prickly fields surrounded a tiny grid of workers’ homes. Life continued pretty much unchanged into the 1980s.
Ultimately, cheaper pineapple production in Asia brought an end to Lāna‘i’s heyday. In 1985, self-made billionaire David Murdock acquired the island in a merger (well, 98% of it anyway; the remaining 2% is owned by the government or longtime Lāna‘i families). Murdock built two grand hotels, and almost overnight the plain, red-dirt pineapple plantation became one of the world’s top travel destinations. Murdock’s grand maneuver to replace agriculture with tourism never proved quite lucrative enough, however. In 2010, after years of six-figure losses, he sold his share of the island to the third-richest person in the United States, Larry Ellison.
The software tycoon made important moves to endear himself to the tiny, tight-knit community. He reopened the movie theater and the public swimming pool, closed for a decade. He built ball courts so that student athletes finally had somewhere to practice. He formed Pulama Lāna‘i, a company tasked with directing the island’s future, and hired a Lāna‘i native to run its chief operating office. Mr. Ellison’s ambitious plans include everything from sustainable agriculture to a third über-exclusive resort at Halepalaoa on Lāna‘i’s pristine eastern shore. Longtime residents (who’ve lived through several island makeovers) remain optimistic but cautious.
Visitors will find an island still in flux. At press time, the Lodge Ko‘ele was closed for renovation, and several of the island’s popular activities—shooting clays, sailing excursions—were temporarily on hold. But Lāna‘i has plenty of charms to capture a traveler’s imagination, from wild dolphins jumping at Hulopo‘e Beach to hidden heiau (temples) that seem to vibrate with power.
It’s entirely possible to enjoy Lāna‘i without getting behind the wheel. Lāna‘i City is easily walkable and if you’re staying at the Four Seasons you’ll hardly want to stray from the luxurious property. But if you plan to explore the island’s remote shores or forested summit (which I highly recommend), you’ll need a four-wheel-drive (4WD) vehicle for at least a day or two.
The island has very little infrastructure, so you’ll need to plan your transportation in advance. Rabaca’s Limousine Service ( 808/565-6670) will retrieve you from the airport or harbor for $10 per person. Guests at the Four Seasons Lāna‘i ( 808/565-2000) have the option of taking a luxury shuttle bus ($20 per person) or a private SUV ($85 per vehicle, limit four passengers). If you’re camping at Hulopo‘e Beach, you can walk over from the harbor.
Dollar Rent A Car at Lāna‘i Plantation Store/Lāna‘i City Service, 1036 Lāna‘i Ave. (www.dollarlanai.com; 800/533-7808), rents standard cars, minivans, and 4WD jeeps. Expect to pay $139 (plus taxes) per day. Make sure to reserve your ride far in advance; cars are in short supply here. On top of that, gas is expensive on Lāna‘i—upward of $5 a gallon—and off-road vehicles get lousy mileage. Spending $40 to $50 per day on gas isn’t unheard of.
Tip: Rent only for the day (or days) you want to explore the island’s hinterlands. Keep in mind that rainy weather makes many roads impassable. Check with the Dollar office to see which roads are open—and whether renting that day is worth your money.
With all of that in mind, if you’d rather leave the driving to someone else, Rabaca’s Limousine Service (see above) is a terrific option for a short romp around the island. Knowledgeable local drivers will navigate the wild roads for you, visiting Shipwreck Beach, Keahiakawelo, and even Keōmoku Village in roomy Suburbans. Three-and-a-half-hour trips are $75 per person (minimum two guests). Or book the “4x4 Trekker Tour” package from Expeditions, which includes ferry travel to Lāna‘i (www.go-lanai.com; 808/565-6670; from $181).
Whether or not you rent a car, sooner or later you’ll find yourself at the Lāna‘i Plantation Store, 1036 Lāna‘i Ave. ( 808/565-7227). Get directions, maps, and all the local gossip at this all-in-one grocery, gas station, rental-car agency, and souvenir shop. It’s also a good place to fill your water jugs: A reverse-osmosis water dispenser is just out front.
Note: Lāna‘i is part of Maui County.
Emergencies In case of emergencies, call the police, fire department, or ambulance services at 911, or the Poison Control Center at 800/222-1222. For non-emergencies, call the police at 808/565-6428.
Doctors & Dentists For over-the-counter prescriptions and vaccines, head to Rainbow Pharmacy right in Dole Park (431 7th St., Lāna‘i City; 808/565-9332). For emergency dental care, call Hawaii Dental Clinic (www.hawaiidentalclinic.com; 808/565-6418). If you need a doctor, contact the Straub Lāna‘i Family Health Center ( 808/565-6423) or the Lāna‘i Community Hospital ( 808/565-8450).
Weather For both land and sea conditions, visit the National Weather Service website (www.prh.noaa.gov) and type Lāna‘i, Hawai‘i, in the search box.
Exploring Lāna‘i
You’ll need an off-road vehicle to reach the sights listed below. Four-wheel-drive rentals on Lāna‘i are expensive—but worth it for a day or two of adventure. For details on vehicle rentals, see “Getting Around,” above.
Your first stop on Lāna‘i (perhaps after baptizing yourself at Hulopo‘e Beach) should be the Lāna‘i Culture & Heritage Center 
, 730 Lāna‘i Ave. (www.lanaichc.org; 808/565-7177), located in the heart of town. Orient yourself to the island’s cultural and natural history at this tiny, well-curated museum. Learn how indigenous Hawaiians navigated thousands of miles of Pacific Ocean, see relics of the Dole plantation years, and get directions to the island’s petroglyph fields. Even better, ask the docents to recount local legends passed down in their families. A visit is guaranteed to make your explorations of Lāna‘i that much richer.
The Lāna‘i Culture & Heritage Center partnered with Pulama Lāna‘i to create a great new tool for exploring the island: the Lāna‘i Guide app (available for free on iTunes). The GPS-enabled app directs you to historic sites and shares old photos, aerial videos, and chants.
Note: You’ll find the following attractions on the “Lāna‘i” map on p. 463.
Kānepu‘u Preserve
This ancient grove on Lāna‘i’s western plateau is the island’s last remaining dryland forest, containing 48 native species. A self-guided hike allows visitors to see the rare trees and shrubs that once covered the dry lowlands of all the main Hawaiian Islands. Elsewhere these species have succumbed to axis deer, agriculture, or “progress.” The botanical marvels growing within this protected reserve include olopua (Hawaiian olive), lama (Hawaiian ebony), ma‘u hau hele (a Hawaiian hibiscus), and nānuū (Hawaiian gardenia). Kānepu‘u is easily reached via four-wheel-drive vehicle. Drive west from Koele Lodge on Polihua Road; in about 13⁄4 miles, you’ll see the fenced area on the left.
Keahiakawelo (Garden of the Gods) 
A four-wheel-drive dirt road leads out of Lāna‘i City, through fallow pineapple fields, past the Kānepu‘u Preserve (see above) to Keahiakawelo. This rugged, beautiful place is punctuated by boulders strewn by volcanic forces and sculpted by the elements into varying shapes and colors—brilliant reds, oranges, ochers, and yellows.
Modern visitors nicknamed this otherworldly landscape “the Garden of the Gods,” but its ancient Hawaiian name, Ke-ahi-a-kawelo, means “the fire of Kawelo.” According to legend, it’s the site of a sorcerers’ battle. Kawelo, a powerful kahuna (priest) noticed that the people and animals of Lāna‘i were falling ill. He traced their sickness to smoke coming from the neighboring island of Moloka‘i. There, an ill-intentioned priest, Lanikaula, sat chanting over a fire. Kawelo started a fire of his own, here at Keahiakawelo, and tossed some of Lanikaula’s excrement into the flames. The smoke turned purple, Lanikaula perished, and health and prosperity returned to Lāna‘i.
Take the dusty, bumpy drive out to Keahiakewalo early in the morning or just before sunset, when the light casts eerie shadows on the mysterious lava formations. Drive west from Kō‘ele Lodge on Polihua Road; in about 2 miles, you’ll see a hand-painted sign pointing left down a one-lane, red-dirt road through a kiawe forest to the large stone sign. Don’t stack rocks or otherwise disturb this interesting site; leave everything as you found it.
Garden of the Gods.
Lāna‘i is second only to the Big Island in its wealth of prehistoric rock art, but you’ll have to search a little to find it. Some of the best examples are on the outskirts of Lāna‘i City, on a hillside site known as Luahiwa Petroglyph Field. The characters incised on 13 boulders in this grassy 3-acre knoll include a running man, a canoe, turtles, and curly-tailed dogs (a latter-day wag put a leash on one).
To get here, take Mānele Road from Lāna‘i City towards Hulopo‘e Beach. About 2 miles out of town, you’ll see a pumphouse on the left. Look up on the hillside for a cluster of dark boulders—the petroglyphs are there, but you’ll have to zigzag to get to them. Two dirt roads lead off of Mānele Road, on either side of the pumphouse. Take the first one, which leads straight toward the hillside. After about 1 mile, you’ll come to a fork. Head right. Drive for another 1⁄2 mile. At the first V in the road, take a sharp left and double back the way you came, this time on an upper road. After about 1⁄4 mile; you’ll come to the large cluster of boulders on the right. It’s just a short walk up the cliffs (wear walking or hiking shoes) to the petroglyphs. Exit the same way you came. Go between 3pm and sunset for ideal viewing and photo ops. Don’t touch the petroglyphs or climb on the rocks; these cultural resources are very fragile.
off the tourist trail: Eastside Lāna‘i
If you’ve got good weather and a trusty 4×4 vehicle, go find adventure on Lāna‘i’s untamed east side. Bring snacks and extra water; there are no facilities out here and cell service is scarce. But once you’ve made it to the shoreline, you’re likely to have a wide stretch of sand all to yourself. Follow Keomoku Road for 8 miles to the coast. Here the road turns to dirt, mud, or sand; proceed with caution. Head left to find Shipwreck Beach and the Kukui Point petroglyphs (p. 475).
Venture right to explore a string of empty beaches and abandoned villages, including Keōmoku—about 53⁄4 miles down the rough-and-tumble dirt road. This former ranching and fishing community of 2,000 was home to the first non-Hawaiian settlement on Lāna‘i. A ghost town since the mid-1950s, it dried up after droughts killed off the Maunalei Sugar Company. Check out Ka Lanakila, the sweetly restored church that dates back to 1903.
Continue another 2 miles to the deserted remains of Club Lāna‘i. A lonely pier stretches into the Pacific from a golden-sand beach populated by coconut palms, a few gazebos, and an empty bar floating in a lagoon. You can pretend you’re on the set of Gilligan’s Island here. This secluded area’s Hawaiian name, Halepaloa, means “whale ivory house.” Historians speculate that the teeth and bones of a sperm whale—rare in these waters—once washed ashore here. If you have time, press on to Lopa Beach (good for surfing, not for swimming). The road ends at Naha Beach with its ancient fishponds. Return the way you came and take any trash with you.
Munro Trail 
In the first golden rays of dawn, when owls swoop silently over the abandoned pineapple fields, take a peek at Mount Lāna‘ihale, the 3,370-foot summit of Lāna‘i. If it’s clear, hop into a 4×4 and head for the Munro Trail, the narrow, winding ridge trail that runs across Lāna‘i’s razorback spine to its peak. From here, you may get a rare treat: On a clear day, you can see most of the main islands in the Hawaiian chain.
But if it’s raining, forget it. On rainy days, the Munro Trail becomes slick and boggy with major washouts. Rainy-day excursions often end with a rental jeep on the hook of the island’s lone tow truck—and a $250 tow charge. You could even slide off into a major gulch and never be found, so don’t try it. But in late August and September, when trade winds stop blowing and the air over the islands stalls in what’s called a kona condition, Mount Lāna‘ihale’s suddenly visible summit becomes an irresistible attraction.
Look for a red-dirt road off Mānele Road (Hwy. 440), about 5 miles south of Lāna‘i City; turn left and head up the ridgeline. No sign marks the peak, so you’ll have to keep an eye out. Look for a wide spot in the road and a clearing that falls sharply to the sea. From here you can see Kaho‘olawe, Maui, the Big Island of Hawai‘i, and Molokini’s tiny crescent. Even the summits show. You can also see the silver domes of Space City on Haleakalā in Maui; Pu‘u Moa‘ulanui, the tongue-twisting summit of Kaho‘olawe; and, looming above the clouds, Mauna Kea on the Big Island. At another clearing farther along the thickly forested ridge, all of Moloka‘i, including the 4,961-foot summit of Kamakou and the faint outline of O‘ahu (more than 30 miles across the sea), are visible. Once you could see all five islands in a single glance, but now a thriving pine forest blocks the view. For details on hiking the trail, see “Hiking” on p. 479.
Ka Lanakila church.
Kaunolu Village 
Out on Lāna‘i’s nearly vertical, Gibraltar-like sea cliffs is an old royal compound and fishing village. Now a national historic landmark and one of Hawai‘i’s most treasured ruins, it’s believed to have been inhabited by King Kamehameha the Great and hundreds of his closest followers about 200 years ago.
It’s a hot, dry, dusty, slow-going 3-mile 4×4 drive from Lāna‘i City to Kaunolu, but the mini-expedition is worth it. Take plenty of water, don a hat for protection against the sun, and wear sturdy shoes. New signs explain the sacred site’s importance. Ruins of 86 house platforms and 35 stone shelters have been identified on both sides of Kaunolu Gulch. The residential complex also includes the Halulu Heiau temple, named after a mythical man-eating bird. The king’s royal retreat is thought to have stood on the eastern edge of Kaunolu Gulch, overlooking the rocky shore facing Kahekili’s Leap. Chiefs leapt from the 62-foot-high perch as a show of bravado. Nearby are burial caves, a fishing shrine, a lookout tower, and warriorlike stick figures—petroglyphs—carved on boulders. Just offshore stands the telltale fin of little Shark Island, a popular dive spot that teems with bright tropical fish and, frequently, sharks.
From Lāna‘i City, take Kaumalapau Highway past the airport. Look for a carved boulder on the left side of the road. Turn left onto a dirt road (Kaupili Rd.) and drive east until you see another carved boulder. Turn right, toward the ocean. Tip: On your way out, turn right to continue on Kaupili Road. It meets with Hulopo‘e Drive, a shortcut to Mānele Bay.
Beaches
If you like big, wide, empty, gold-sand beaches and crystal-clear, cobalt-blue water full of bright tropical fish—and who doesn’t?—go to Lāna‘i. With 18 miles of sandy shoreline, Lāna‘i has some of Hawai‘i’s least crowded and most interesting beaches.
Hulopo‘e Beach.
Hulopo‘e Beach
Hulopo‘e is one of the loveliest beaches in all of Hawai‘i. Palm-fringed golden sand is bordered by black-lava fingers, which protect swimmers from ocean currents. The bay at the foot of the Four Seasons Resort Lāna‘i at Mānele Bay is a protected marine preserve, with schools of colorful fish, spinner dolphins, and humpback whales that cruise by in winter and often stop to put on a show. The water is perfect for snorkeling, swimming, or just lolling about; the water temperature is usually in the mid-70s (mid-20s Celsius). Swells kick up slightly in winter. Hulopo‘e is also Lāna‘i’s premier beach park, with a grassy lawn, picnic tables, barbecue grills, restrooms, showers, and ample parking. You can camp here, too.
Polihua Beach.
Hulopo‘e’s Tide Pools Some of the best tide pools in Hawai‘i are found along the south shore of Hulopo‘e Bay. These submerged pockets of lava rock are full of strange creatures such as asteroids (sea stars) and holothurians (sea cucumbers), not to mention spaghetti worms, barber pole shrimp, and Hawai‘i’s favorite local delicacy, the opihi, a tasty morsel also known as the limpet. Youngsters enjoy swimming in the enlarged tide pool at the eastern edge of the bay. A few tips: When you explore tide pools, do so at low tide. Never turn your back on the waves. Wear tennis shoes or reef walkers, as wet rocks are slippery. Collecting specimens in this marine preserve is forbidden, so don’t take any souvenirs home.
Polihua Beach
So many sea turtles once hauled themselves out of the water to lay their eggs in the deep sand on Lāna‘i’s northwestern shore that Hawaiians named the beach here Polihua, or “egg nest.” The endangered green sea turtles are making a comeback, but they’re seldom seen here now. You’re more likely to spot an offshore whale (in season) or the perennial flotsam that washes up onto this deserted beach at the end of Polihua Road, a 4-mile jeep trail. When it isn’t windy, this huge, empty stretch is ideal for beachcombing, fishing, or indulging fantasies of being marooned on a desert island. When the wind is blowing, beware—you’ll be sandblasted. There are no facilities except fishermen’s huts and driftwood shelters. Bring water and sunscreen. Strong currents and undertow make the water unsafe for swimming.
Shipwreck Beach
This 8-mile-long windswept strand on Lāna‘i’s northeastern shore—named for the rusty ship Liberty stuck on the coral reef—is a sailor’s nightmare and a beachcomber’s dream. The strong currents yield all sorts of sea debris, from Japanese hand-blown-glass fish floats and rare pelagic paper nautilus shells to lots of junk. This is also a great place to spot whales from December to April, when Pacific humpbacks cruise in from Alaska. The road to the beach is paved most of the way, but you really need a four-wheel-drive to get down here. At the end of the road, you’ll find a trail that goes about 200 yards inland to the Kukui Point petroglyphs; follow the stacked rock ahu (altars). Respect this historic site by not adding anything to it or taking anything away. Most important, do not touch the petroglyphs.
Watersports
Because Lāna‘i lacks major development, it has Hawai‘i’s best water clarity. It also has low rainfall and runoff, and its coast is washed clean daily by the strong sea currents. But these currents also pose a threat to swimmers, and there are few good surf breaks. Most of the aquatic adventures—swimming, snorkeling, scuba diving—are centered on the somewhat protected South Shore, around Hulopo‘e Bay.
The main watersports outfitter is Trilogy Excursions 
(Lāna‘i-based trips: www.scubalanai.com; Maui-to-Lāna‘i trips: www.sailtrilogy.com; 808/874-5649). This Maui-based company has built a well-deserved reputation as the leader in sailing/snorkeling cruises in Hawai‘i. Trilogy’s superb crew offers daylong snorkeling trips from Maui to Lāna‘i, plus a few Lāna‘i-based excursions. The latter are ideal: less crowded, less expensive, and less time spent en route, all of which adds up to more fun.
Trips with Trilogy—along with most other island activities—can be booked at the Four Seasons Lāna‘i Island Adventure Center (1 Mānele Bay Rd., Lāna‘i City; 808/565-2072).
Sailing & Snorkeling
Trilogy Excursions (see above) offers wonderfully uncrowded snorkel sailing trips on board its luxury catamarans and 32-foot, jet-drive rigid aluminum inflatable vessel. Cruises along Lāna‘i’s protected coastline sail past hundreds of spinner dolphins and into some of the best snorkeling sites in the world ($250 adults, 25% off for teens 13–18, and 50% off for children 3–12). Breakfast and lunch are included, along with sodas, snorkel gear, and instruction. Mondays and Thursdays only. Book at the Four Seasons Lāna‘i Island Adventure Center ( 808/565-2072).
Convict Tang in Hulopo‘e Bay.
If you just want to snorkel on your own, Hulopo‘e Beach is Lāna‘i’s best snorkeling spot. Fish are abundant in the marine-life conservation area. Try the lava-rock points at either end of the beach and around the lava pools.
Scuba Diving
Two of Hawai‘i’s best-known dive spots are found in Lāna‘i’s clear waters, just off the south shore: Cathedrals I and II, so named because the sun lights up an underwater grotto like a magnificent church. In the past, Trilogy Excursions (see above) offered regular boat dives here; currently only chartered trips are available. For $4,750, you and five friends will have a decked-out catamaran to yourselves for two-tank dives, plus food and beverages. Trilogy also offers shore dives right off of Hulopo‘e Beach for just $149; beginners can try an introductory dive for $189.
Sport Fishing
Spinning Dolphin Charters of Lāna‘i (www.sportfishinglanai.com; 808/565-7676) offers sport-fishing expeditions on Fish-n-Chips, a 36-foot Twin-V boat. It costs $700 for 4 hours for six passengers ($110 for each additional hour), or you can share a boat for $150 each for 4 hours.
Surfing/Stand-up Paddleboarding (SUP)
If you’ve ever wanted to learn how to surf, let instructor and surfing champion Nick Palumbo take you on a four-wheel-drive surfing safari to a secluded surf spot on the island’s rugged eastside. He’ll have you up and riding the waves in no time. His Lāna‘i Surf School & Surf Safari (www.lanaisurfsafari.com; 808/649-0739) offers 5-hour surf safaris, which include four-wheel-drive transportation to Lopa Beach, refreshments, and “a really good time.” The adventures cost $200 per person, minimum of two guests. He also offers stand-up paddleboarding (SUP) lessons at Hulopo‘e Beach, two hours for $100.
Whale-Watching
During whale season (Dec–Mar), Hawaiian humpback whales put on impressive shows, breaching, slapping their pectoral fins, and singing complex melodies underwater. You can view them from just about any spot on Lāna‘i, particularly on the eastside, looking toward Maui.
If you want to witness whales or simply watch the sunset while out on the water, contact Trilogy Excursions (see above) for a 2-hour chartered sail aboard a catamaran. Cruise past sea cliffs and unspoiled coastline while watching spinner dolphins and flying fish dart ahead of the bow. You’ll arrive at Pu‘u Pehe, Sweetheart Rock, just in time for the best sunset shots. The captain and crew are certified naturalists who make each trip educational. The boat is yours for $2,667, inclusive of snacks and beverages. The company currently only offers private charters for whale-watching—though it has offered group sails in the past and will likely do so again. Spinning Dolphin Charters of Lāna‘i (see above) also offers private charters.
Other Outdoor Activities
The Four Seasons Lāna‘i operates the Island Adventure Center, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., Lāna‘i City ( 808/565-2072), where resort guests and the general public can book an assortment of activities: golf, utility task vehicle (UTV) tours, horseback rides, sunset sails, and more. Located next door to the resort’s tennis courts, the center is open from 6am to 6pm.
Biking
Lāna‘i Cycles (www.lanaicycles.com; 808/563-0535) offers terrific, 31⁄2-hour guided tours of off-the-beaten-path locales. Start your adventure in the misty clouds above Lāna‘i City. Hop on a specialized Sirrus multiuse bike and coast 7 miles down to the island’s scenic east coast. A support vehicle will shuttle you back up to town, where you can fuel up on smoothies or coffee before taking off again, this time down to Kuamalapau Harbor. Tours cost $180 and are small and personalized.
Golf
Note that as we went to press, Jack Nicklaus was (still) redesigning The Experience at Kō‘ele (www.fourseasons.com/lanai) golf course. We can’t wait to see how he improves on the existing 18th hole, a par-5 grand finale featuring waterfalls that flow into a lake.
Cavendish Golf Course This quirky par-36, 9-hole public course lacks not only a clubhouse and club pros, but also tee times, scorecards, and club rentals. To play, just show up, put a donation into the little wooden box next to the first tee, and hit away. The 3,071-yard, E. B. Cavendish–designed course was built by the Dole plantation in 1947 for its employees. The greens are a bit bumpy, but the views of Lāna‘i are great and the temperatures usually quite mild.
Off of Kauna‘oa Dr., next to the Lodge at Ko‘ele, Lāna‘i City. 
808/565-7300. Greens fees by donation.
The Challenge at Mānele Designed by Jack Nicklaus, this target-style, desert-links course, is one of the most challenging courses in the state. Check out some of the course rules: no retrieving golf balls from the 150-foot cliffs on the ocean holes 12, 13, or 17, and all whales, axis deer, and other wild animals are considered immovable obstructions. That’s just a hint of the unique experience you’ll have on this starkly beautiful oceanfront course, which is routed among lava outcroppings, archaeological sites, and kiawe groves. The five sets of staggered tees pose a challenge to everyone from the casual golfer to the pro. Want an even bigger challenge? Swap your golf cart for a golfboard—an electric vehicle that maneuvers like a skateboard and carries your clubs. Facilities include a clubhouse, pro shop, rentals, practice area, lockers, and showers.
Next to the Four Seasons Resort Lāna‘i at Mānele Bay. www.fourseasons.com/lanai. 800/321-4666 or 808/565-2222. Greens fees $295 ($250 for guests).
Horseback Riding
Get a taste of the paniolo (cowboy) life on a horseback tour. Sign up for an upland trail ride at the Four Seasons Lāna‘i Island Adventure Center, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., Lāna‘i City ( 808/565-2072), where you’ll catch a shuttle up to Kō‘ele and meet your steed. On horseback, you’ll meander through guava groves and past ironwood trees; catch glimpses of spotted deer, wild turkeys, and quail; and end with panoramic views of Maui and Lāna‘i. The trails are dusty and rain is frequent; wear clothes you don’t mind getting dirty and bring a light jacket. Long pants and closed-toe shoes are required. Daily tours start at 9:30am and 2pm, last 1½ hours, and cost $150 per person.
KŌ‘ele Nature Hike The leisurely 2-hour self-guided Kō‘ele Nature Hike starts by the reflecting pool in the backyard of the Lodge at Kō‘ele and takes you on a 5-mile loop through Norfolk Island pines, into Hulopo‘e Valley, past wild ginger, and up to Koloiki Ridge, with its panoramic view of Maunalei Valley and the islands of Moloka‘i and Maui in the distance. You’re welcome to take the hike even if you’re not a guest at the lodge. Go in the morning; by afternoon, the clouds usually roll in, marring visibility at the top and increasing your chance of being caught in a downpour. The path isn’t clearly marked, so ask the concierge at the Four Seasons (www.fourseasons.com/lanai; 808/565-2000) for a free map, or sign up for one of the resort’s guided hikes. It’s considered moderate, with some uphill and downhill hiking.
Maunalei Gulch.
Munro Trail This tough, 11-mile (round-trip) uphill climb through groves of Norfolk pines is a lung-buster, but if you reach the top, you’ll be rewarded with a breathtaking view of Moloka‘i, Maui, Kaho‘olawe, the peaks of the Big Island, and—on a really clear day—O‘ahu in the distance. Figure on 7 hours. The trail begins at Lāna‘i Cemetery (interesting in its own right) along Keomoku Road (Hwy. 44) and follows Lāna‘i’s ancient caldera rim, ending up at the island’s highest point, Lāna‘ihale. Go in the morning for the best visibility. After 4 miles, you’ll get a view of Lāna‘i City. The weary retrace their steps from here, while the more determined go the last 1.25 miles to the top. Diehards head down Lāna‘i’s steep south-crater rim to join the highway to Mānele Bay. For more details on the Munro Trail—including four-wheel-driving it to the top—see “Munro Trail” (p. 471).
Kapiha‘a Trail An old fisherman’s trail snakes along the scenic coastline, starting at Mānele Bay. This easy hike will expose you to Lāna‘i’s unique geography and many unusual native Hawaiian coastal plants. The back-and-forth trek takes around 90 minutes. Venture out on your own or, if you’re a hotel guest at the Four Seasons Resort Lāna‘i, arrange a complimentary guided hike through the concierge (www.fourseasons.com/lanai; 808/565-2000; $10 donations accepted). You can also download an informative brochure from the Lāna‘i Visitor Center website (www.lanaichc.org/kapihaa.html).
Tennis
Public courts, lit for night play, are available in Lāna‘i City at no charge; call 808/565-6979 for reservations. If you’re staying at the Four Seasons, you can take advantage of the six Premiere Cushion outdoor hard courts for free, with complimentary use of Prince rackets, balls, and bottled water—even shoes if you need.
UTV Tours
For a unique view of the island, book a 2-hour UTV tour at the Four Seasons Lāna‘i Island Adventure Center (1 Mānele Bay Rd., Lāna‘i City 808/565-2072). You can pretend you’re Mad Max or Furiosa as you slide on your sleek helmet, balaclava, and goggles, and mount your Polaris Razor 1000. (The off-road suspension is so smooth you’ll hardly notice the boulders.) Local guides will chauffeur you into the forested uplands above Palawai Basin where you’ll explore an ancient agricultural temple, view petroglyphs, and dodge spotted deer. Wear clothes you’re willing to sacrifice to Lāna‘i’s red dirt (long pants and closed-toe shoes are required) and bring a jacket (rain is frequent). Tours leave twice daily at 9am and 1:30pm and cost $150 per person.
Where to Stay on Lāna‘i
Accommodations on Lāna‘i are limited: You can go for broke at one (or both) of the luxurious Four Seasons properties, book a plantation-style room at the Hotel Lāna‘i, or camp under the stars at Hulopo‘e Beach Park. When you stay with the Four Seasons, you’re greeted at the airport or ferry with chilled towels and shuttled off in style. Later, if you move from one resort to the other, the staff will pack and deliver your luggage for you.
Four Seasons Resort Lāna‘i, The Lodge at Kō‘ele Note: At press time, the property was closed due to construction and slated to reopen by January 2017. This elegant retreat sits against Lāna‘ihale, the island’s tallest peak, in the cool mist of the mountains. On 21 immaculately landscaped acres, it resembles a grand country estate, complete with croquet lawns, gazebos, orchid greenhouse, reflecting pond, and Chinese pagoda. Inside, the Great Hall’s beamed ceilings and enormous stone fireplaces evoke the atmosphere of a storied hunter’s lodge. Leather couches invite lounging around the fireplaces—coveted spots during the nightly live music sessions.
At 1,700 feet above sea level, temperatures can drop into the 50s—especially during winter. Never fear, the rooms have heat as well as air-conditioning, extra blankets are in the closet, and the cooler climate just makes everything cozier. This isn’t your stereotypical Hawaiian vacation; people come to Kō‘ele to play golf on one of the world’s most scenic courses, explore the hinterlands on horseback, hike up into the forested hillside, or simply put their feet up on the foyer’s comfy rattan chairs and disappear into a novel.
1 Keōmoku Hwy., Lāna‘i City. www.fourseasons.com/lanai. 800/321-4666 or 808/565-4000. 100 units. Call for current rates. Free parking. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; babysitting; bike rentals; children’s program; concierge; croquet; fitness room; golf; self-guided hike; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; room service; spa treatments; tennis courts; watersports equipment; Wi-Fi (free).
Four Seasons Resort Lāna‘i at Mānele Bay A conch shell’s trumpeting call announces your arrival at this oceanfront retreat, where everyone magically knows your name—even the computer screen in your bathroom mirror. Every inch of this opulent oasis reflects the latest in tech-savvy luxury, from the wristband room keys to the Toto toilets. Service is impeccable: The concierge texts you when dolphins or whales appear in the bay. Beach attendants set up umbrellas in the sand for you, spritz you with Evian, and deliver smoothie samples.
Guest rooms are large and luxurious, with blackout shades that you can control with a flick of your hand. Suites have Japanese cedar tubs and views that stretch on forever. The resort’s two wings overlook Hulopo‘e Beach and are lushly landscaped with waterfalls, koi-filled lotus ponds, and artwork tucked into every corner. Rare Polynesian artifacts purchased from the Bishop Museum decorate the main lobby’s lower level, which is home to two fantastic restaurants: Nobu Lāna‘i and One Forty . Other amenities sprinkled around the property include a first-rate adventure center, shuffleboard tables in the chic sports bar, and an exercise room with a view so grand you’ll forget you’re burning calories on a stationary cycle. Inspired by indigenous healing traditions, the resort’s spa offers traditional lomi lomi Hawaiian massages, taro body wraps, facials, and salon services in serene treatment rooms. Guests have free access to the spa facility’s saunas and steam rooms. The “Kids for All Seasons” child-care programs activities are excellent, but you’ll probably have trouble pulling your youngsters away from the beach and tide pools.
1 Mānele Bay Rd., Lāna‘i City. www.fourseasons.com/lanai. 800/321-4666 or 808/565-2000. 21 units, 25 suites. $1,075–$4,925 double; $1,875–$21,000 suite. Numerous packages available. Amenities: 5 restaurants; bar with live music; babysitting; children’s program; concierge; fitness center w/classes; golf at Jack Nicklaus–designed Challenge at Mānele; whirlpools; 2 pools; room service; full spa; tennis courts; watersports equipment; Wi-Fi (free or premium for $20 per day).
Moderate
Hotel Lāna‘i This boutique hotel in the heart of town is perfect for families and other vacationers who can’t afford to spend a small fortune but still want to experience Lāna‘i. If you’re looking for the old-time aloha that the island is famous for, this is your place. Built in the 1920s, it has retained its quaint, plantation-era character.
That character comes at a price: Guest rooms are small and noise travels. But the comfy beds come with Hawaiian quilts, and the ceiling fans do a more than adequate job in the cooler climate. The popular Lāna‘i units are slightly larger and share a furnished deck that faces Dole Park. The one-bedroom cottage costs slightly more than those rooms and boasts the added amenities of a private yard, living room with TV, and a bathtub. All of Lāna‘i City is within walking distance. The in-house restaurant, Lāna‘i City Grille, is excellent. This social spot is where visitors might mingle with locals in the bar, talking or playing the ‘ukulele long into the night. Although it lacks the luxury of the nearby resorts, Hotel Lāna‘i offers an authentic, unpretentious peek into the island’s Hawaiian heart.
828 Lāna‘i Ave., Lāna‘i City. www.hotellanai.com. 800/795-7211 or 808/565-7211. 10 units, 1 cottage. $174–$304 double; $254–$279 cottage, $55 for child. Rates include continental breakfast. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; access to golf courses on the island; complimentary beach equipment; nearby tennis courts; Wi-Fi (free).
Inexpensive
Dreams Come True Susan and Michael Hunter have operated this bed-and-breakfast in the heart of Lāna‘i City for 30-plus years. The nicely renovated 1925 plantation house is roomy and quaint, with four bedrooms, four bathrooms, and a backyard orchard of papaya, banana, and avocado trees. Among the many perks: marble bathrooms, fresh lilikoi juice served with the delicious breakfast each morning, and private four-wheel-drive rentals—a real bonus on this car-deficient island!
1168 Lāna‘i Ave., Lāna‘i City. 808/565-6961 or 808/565-7211. 4 rooms, or entire house. $141 double; $564 entire house. Rates include continental breakfast. Amenities: Car rental; concierge; laundry; barbecue; Wi-Fi (free).
Camping at Hulopo‘e Beach Park
There is only one legal place to camp on Lāna‘i, but it’s a beauty. Hulopo‘e Beach Park ( 808/215-1107) has eight campsites on the shady grass lawn fronting this idyllic white-sand beach. Each site accommodates up to five people. Facilities include restrooms, showers, barbecues, and picnic tables. Email info@lanaibeachpark.com 72 hours in advance to request a permit. You’ll pay a $30 registration fee, plus a charge of $15 per person per night. Payment is by credit card only. Permits are issued in person, first-come, first-served, for 3 nights max, major holidays excluded.
Where to Eat on Lāna‘i
Lāna‘i offers dining experiences on two ends of the spectrum, from humble ma-and-pa eateries to world-class culinary adventures. The posh resort restaurants require deep pockets, and Lāna‘i City has only a handful of other options.
Note: You’ll find the restaurants reviewed in this chapter on the “Lāna‘i” map on p. 463.
Expensive
Nobu Lāna‘i JAPANESE What does Lāna‘i have in common with New York, Milan, Budapest, and Mexico City? All have a Nobu restaurant—a measure of how fun a place is, according to pop star Madonna. The best way to experience this epicurean phenomenon is to order the omakase—the chef’s tasting menu—for $120. Every dish is as delicious as it is artful: the smoked Wagyu gyoza with jalapeño miso, the immaculate plates of nigiri sushi, and the ahi avocado salad with greens grown at Alberta’s farm up the road. Vegetarian? Nobu has a sophisticated menu just for you, featuring fusion tacos and tofu tobanyaki anticucho—a melting pot of Japanese and Peruvian flavors. The wine and cocktail list is top-notch, including exclusive Hokusetu sake and a sassy caipirinha with Pisco, fresh lime, ginger beer, and sprigs of shiso. Request a sake tasting, and the resident sake master will teach you the subtleties of a dry onigorishi and a dynamic daiginjo.
At the Four Seasons Resort Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., Lāna‘i City. www.fourseasons.com/lanai. 808/565-2832. Main courses $12–$58; multicourse tasting menu $120. Daily 6–9pm.
One Forty BREAKFAST/STEAK & SEAFOOD This breakfast buffet is probably the best in the state. Weeks later I’m still fantasizing about my One Forty breakfast overlooking sparkling Mānele Bay. Imagine: a cornucopia of ripe tropical fruit, “make-your-own” omelet and smoothie stations, artisan cheese, charcuterie, four types of sausages, brioche French toast, eggs any which way, and a malasada machine. Not just lox but house-cured ono with toasted bagels—now that is what I call breakfast. Dinner is also stellar. The pan-seared kampachi with forbidden rice, bok choy, and chimichurri sauce is perfectly on point, as is the 20-ounce bone-in ribeye (it should be, for a staggering $95). Order the chocolate soufflé early; it takes 20 minutes to bake and is worth every second of the wait.
At the Four Seasons Resort Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., Lāna‘i City. www.fourseasons.com/lanai. 808/565-2290. Breakfast main courses $12–$24; buffet $52; dinner $32–$95. Daily 6:30–10am and 6–9pm.
Moderate
Lāna‘i City Grille HAWAI‘I REGIONAL/COUNTRY This Lāna‘i mainstay has three comfortable dining areas to choose from: the bright and lovely dining room, the bar with large-screen TVs and couchlike chairs, and the outdoor patio where Hawaiian musicians croon under the stars. The menu ranges from trendy American comfort food (chicken and waffles, adult mac and cheese, sliders) to local specialties (pan-seared fish over garlicky bok choy, braised short ribs). The service is on point and the food is fresh—if a bit pricier than it would be on another island. Bring a jacket if you want to sit outside by the fire pits and soak up the friendly Lāna‘i ambiance and fantastic live music.
At the Hotel Lāna‘i, 828 Lāna‘i Ave., Lāna‘i City. www.hotellanai.com. 808/565-7211. Main courses $18–$36. Wed–Sat 5–9pm; Sun 8am–1pm.
Malibu Farms AMERICAN Breakfast and lunch are glamorous affairs by the Four Seasons pool. Start your day with fresh-pressed juice and quinoa oatmeal while scanning Hulopo‘e Bay for dolphins. For lunch, indulge in a burger with bacon marmalade. At dusk, pull up a seat at the bar for a craft cocktail and watch the sun melt into the sea.
At the Four Seasons Resort Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., Lāna‘i City. www.fourseasons.com/lanai. 808/565-2290. Breakfast and lunch main courses $18–$26. Daily 8am–7pm.
Views PACIFIC RIM Take a stroll or hop the shuttle to the Challenge at Mānele’s clubhouse, the island’s best spot for lunch, where the idyllic view of Pu‘u Pehe and Hulopo‘e Beach is even better than at the resort proper—if you can fathom that. Sip a Lāna‘i Mule (vodka with ginger beer and calamansi lime juice), nosh on a prawn B.L.T. (pita stuffed with fat prawns, Creole aioli, and caramelized onions), and crown your meal with a decadent ice cream sandwich. My fave: the gingersnap cookie loaded with pineapple coconut ice cream.
At the Challenge at Mānele Golf Course, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., Lāna‘i City. www.fourseasons.com/lanai. 808/565-2230. Main courses $19–$34. Daily 11am–6pm.
Inexpensive
Blue Ginger Cafe COFFEE SHOP With its cheery curtains and oilcloth-covered tables, this humble eatery welcomes residents and locals alike in for eggs and Spam (yes, Spam is a beloved breakfast meat in Hawai‘i), adequate bowls of saimin, epic plates of fried rice, fried chicken katsu, and decent egg/tuna/chicken salad sandwiches on homemade bread. The kitchen staff bakes all of its own breads and pastries, so burgers and sandwiches taste especially fresh. Hot out of the oven, the blueberry turnovers, cinnamon buns, and cookies are legendary.
409 Seventh St. (at Ilima St.), Lāna‘i City. www.bluegingercafelanai.com. 808/565-6363. Breakfast and lunch items under $17; dinner main courses under $18. Cash only. Thurs–Mon 6am–8pm; Tues–Wed 6am–2pm.
Canoes Lāna‘i LOCAL ”Lāna‘i’s oldest eating establishment” opened in 1926 as a soda fountain. The Tanigawa family took it over in the 1950s and began selling their secret-recipe hamburgers, still on the menu. Today’s favorites are furikaki chicken served with (of course) two scoops of rice and macaroni salad, and the Tanigawa loco moco: a monster pile of rice topped with that famous burger, a fried egg, and a slather of gravy.
419 Seventh St., Lāna‘i City. www.facebook.com/Canoes-Lanai-Restaurant-278954825810. 808/565-6537. Breakfast items under $14; sandwiches $5–$8; burgers $3–$6. Cash only. Mon–Fri 6:30am–1pm; Fri–Sat 6:30am–8pm.
Coffee Works COFFEEHOUSE A biscuit’s toss from Dole Park, this cozy coffeehouse churns out excellent espresso drinks, amply loaded lox and bagels, açai bowls, ice cream, crepes, and sandwiches. The renovated plantation home is the perfect place to fuel up in the morning. It’s also Lāna‘i City’s local watering hole—expect to see your waiter from dinner last night chatting away with the shuttle driver on the wide wooden deck. As you wait for your cappuccino, browse the gift items opposite the counter: T-shirts to prove you were here, tea infusers and pots, and island coffee beans.
604 Ilima St., Lāna‘i City. www.coffeeworkshawaii.com. 808/565-6962. Most items under $15. Mon–Fri 7am–3pm; Sat 8am–3pm.
Lāna‘i ‘Ohana Poke Market LOCAL/SEAFOOD On a side street off of Dole Park, a takeout window offers fresh, affordable seafood. Poke (raw, seasoned fish) is a local comfort food, and this spot does it right. The sushi poke bowl is my favorite—sushi rice heaped with fresh ahi, masago (flying fish roe), nori, chili aioli, and crunchy puffed rice. So ono (delicious)! The deluxe poke bowl comes with two pieces of teriyaki steak and mac salad. Try the limu kohu poke—the native seaweed is mineral-y and potent, a fine complement to the rich fish. Come early; the furikake (seasoned) poke and coconut shrimp bowls run out quickly.
834-A Gay St., Lāna‘i City. 808/565-6537. Lunch items $8–$11. Cash only. Mon–Thurs 10:30am–4pm; Fri 10:30am–8pm.
Pele’s Other Garden DELI/BISTRO The checkered floor and vanity license plates decorating the walls set an upbeat tone at this casual bistro. For lunch, dig into an avocado and feta wrap or an Italian hoagie. Cheese lovers will swoon over the thin-crusted four-cheese pizza—a gooey medley of mozzarella, Parmesan, feta, and provolone. During happy hour, nosh on onion rings and coconut shrimp at one of Lāna‘i City’s only bars. Enjoy cocktails, wine by the glass, or one of the dozen brews on tap. The atmosphere grows slightly more romantic after sundown, with white linens on the tables and twinkle lights over the outdoor seating.
811 Houston St., Lāna‘i City. www.pelesothergarden.com. 808/565-9628. Main courses $9–$13 lunch, $17–$20 dinner; pizza from $9. Mon–Fri 11am–3pm; Mon–Sat 5–8pm; bar menu Mon–Sat 4:30–6:30pm.
Lāna‘i Shopping
Lāna‘i has limited shopping, but you can find some glittering gems here. A stroll around Dole Park will yield original artwork, clothing, and souvenirs, and the Four Seasons has excellent boutiques. Just remember that groceries are delivered only once a week (Wed is barge day)—so plan your shopping accordingly.
Art
Lāna‘i Art Center Established in 1989, the Lāna‘i Art Center showcases works by Lāna‘i residents, including evocative watercolor paintings of local landmarks, silk-screened clothing, and necklaces made of polished shells and bone. Often, the artists are at work in back. Check out the center’s reasonably priced workshops, where local and visiting artists offer instruction on everything from raku (Japanese pottery) to silk-printing, quilting, lei-making, felting, and gyotaku (printing a real fish on your own T-shirt). 339 Seventh St., Lāna‘i City. www.lanaiart.org. 808/565-7503.
Mike Carroll Gallery Oil painter Mike Carroll left a successful 22-year career as a professional artist in Chicago for a distinctly slower pace on Lāna‘i. His gorgeous, color-saturated interpretations of local life and landscapes fill the walls of his eponymous gallery, which also sells original work by top Maui and Lāna‘i artists, prints, and locally made, one-of-a-kind jewelry. 443 Seventh St., Lāna‘i City. www.mikecarrollgallery.com. 808/565-7122.
Edibles & Grocery Staples
Pine Isle Market This family-run grocery, three doors down from Richard’s, carries everything that its competition doesn’t. A visit to both will net you a fine haul. Pine Isle specializes in locally caught fresh fish, but you can also find ice cream, canned goods, fresh herbs, toys, diapers, paint, and other essentials. Take a spin through the fishing section to ogle every imaginable lure. The Hondas, who’ve operated the shop for 6 decades, still observe the “plantation days” tradition of closing for lunch on Tuesdays and Thursdays. 356 Eighth St., Lāna‘i City. 808/565-6488.
Richard’s Market Since 1946, this family grocery has been the go-to for dry goods, frozen meats and vegetables, liquor, paper products, cosmetics, utensils, and other miscellany. It got a major makeover, courtesy of Larry Ellison and Pulama Lāna‘i. Now the inside resembles a miniature Whole Foods with an array of fancy chocolates and fine wines, mixed in with aloha shirts, fold-up lauhala mats, and Filipino staples such as tapioca pearls. Don’t faint when you see that milk costs $9 a gallon; that’s the price of paradise. Even still, the spiffy new shelves are often empty by the weekend. The fish counter in back sells no fewer than eight types of poke (raw seasoned fish) and super-tasty cone sushi topped with your choice of poke for just $2.99. Open until 10pm. 434 Eighth St., Lāna‘i City. 808/565-3780.
Saturday Market From 8am to noon-ish each Saturday, the southeast corner of Dole Park turns into a farmer’s market. Lāna‘i residents bring their homegrown fruits and vegetables, freshly baked pastries, plate lunches, and handicrafts to sell. The best lunches sell out quickly—if you want one of Juanita’s scrumptious pork flautas with a dollop of hot sauce, get here early. Other treats include fresh pressed juices from the bygone ‘Anuenue Juice Bar and fantastic Thai summer rolls.
Gifts & Souvenirs
The Local Gentry Jenna (Gentry) Majkus manages to outfit her small but wonderful boutique with every wardrobe essential, from fancy lingerie to stylish chapeaux, for the whole family. Browse the selection of OluKai sandals, Kahala aloha shirts, handmade onesies, and (best of all) T-shirts with Lāna‘i-inspired silkscreens, including What Happens on Lāna‘i Everybody Knows. 363 Seventh St., Lāna‘i City. 808/565-9130.
Makamae/Pilina Just try to resist this resort shop’s bona-fide (read: top-dollar) treasures, including delicately wrapped freshwater pearl and diamond bead necklaces by Jordan Alexander, the cutest-ever bikinis and beach cover-ups by Hawai‘i’s own Letarte, and slinky dresses and housewares by Missoni (yes, you can fit that throw pillow in your suitcase). Slip into a pair of Jimmy Choo sandals and wear them out to dinner at Nobu. Four Seasons Resort Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Bay Rd. 808/565-2093.
Rainbow Pharmacy Like so many island institutions, this pharmacy plays dual roles. It’s not just a place to fill your prescription or stock up on earplugs and sunburn gel; you’ll also find quality locally made souvenirs here (including Cory Labang’s coin purses and clutches made with vintage Hawaiian fabric). From the counter in back, you can order an assortment of medicinal Chinese teas and—unpredictably—shave ice. 431 Seventh St., Lāna‘i City. 808/565-9332.
Lāna‘i Nightlife
The Hotel Lāna‘i and two Four Seasons resorts have been the island’s mainstays for nightlife—but since all three locations have undergone management changes and/or renovations, I can’t promise who’s playing what music where.
Several nights a week, local musicians get together for jams at the Lāna‘i City Grille 
at the Hotel Lāna‘i, 828 Lāna‘i Ave. (www.hotellanai.com; 800/795-7211 or 808/565-7211). No trip to the island is complete without an evening spent here, enjoying Hawaiian harmonies under the stars alongside the locals and day-trip golfers. Bring a jacket if you plan to sit outside; the fire pits are cozy, but not quite enough to keep you warm. Before sunset, head to Kailani at the Four Seasons Resort Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Bay Rd. (www.fourseasons.com/lanai; 808/565-2093), for Hawaiian music and light jazz; after dark, you can play pool in the Sports Bar.
A major addition to Lāna‘i’s nightlife is the newly renovated Lāna‘i Theater, renamed Hale Keaka (456 Seventh St., Lāna‘i City; 808/565-7500). Built in 1926, this iconic landmark shared films, live plays, and musical performances with the island community for 80 years. The $4-million renovation kept the vintage feel but added air-conditioning, digital sound, two stages and screens, cushy seats, and a green room for entertainers. Two films—an adult and a children’s selection—rotate out each week. The box office opens 1 hour prior to the start of each movie. And because it’s Lāna‘i, you’ll find furikake and shoyu among the complimentary popcorn condiments.
