Chapter 16
Other fruits
“Train up a fig tree in the way it should go, and when you are old sit under the shade of it.”
Charles Dickens
This chapter deals with tree fruits that are less commonly grown in the British Isles. This may be because they are not easily usable, as is the case with medlars, for example, or it may be that they grow into large trees not easily accommodated in a garden, as with mulberries. There is also mention of less common tree fruits, such as checkers and elderberries, which are not so easy to use.
Just because these fruits are less common than the apple and pear, however, does not mean that they are not worth growing. Figs are one of the most delicious fruits to be found, and they can be prolific in a good summer. This year, I have harvested nearly 100 figs from a wall-trained tree that has received little attention.
QUINCES
Quinces are rather hard yellow fruits that resemble a knobbly pear. Although they have a grainy texture, they have a delicious aroma when cooked. They are a delightful addition to other fruit and make excellent jams and jellies.
Knobbly ripe quinces.
The quince is not widely grown because its fruits have a limited value. However it is a fruit that deserves its place in any orchard where space is not too restricted. Even in its Mediterranean homelands, it is rare to see quince orchards. In these warm climates, quinces ripen to become a sweeter fruit than in northern Europe. They are even eaten raw when fully ripe.
The history of quince growing
Like many fruits, quinces originate from the Near East, in particular the Caucasus. As trade between countries spread, the quince was introduced to the eastern Mediterranean. Ancient Greek and Roman writing is littered with references to the quince. By 600 BC quinces were used in Greek wedding ceremonies; the bride would take a bite of quince to ensure her breath was sweet before the first kiss. The golden apple that Paris gave to Aphrodite is thought to have been a quince. Roman cookbooks tell of stewing quinces with honey and cooking them with leeks.
Although the subsequent spread of quinces through southern Europe was not well documented, we do know that they had reached France by AD 812, when Charlemagne encouraged the French to grow more quinces. Chaucer mentioned quinces, using the old French word coin, from which the word ‘quince’ eventually arose. Quinces were one of the most popular fruits in Britain in medieval times, producing a marmalade similar to the dulce de membrillo or marmelo that is still popular in Spain and Portugal today. After a brief heyday in the eighteenth century, quince cultivation declined to the marginal level at which it now remains.
Cultivation of quinces
The ‘true’ quince (Cydonia oblongd) is often confused with the oriental or Japanese quince (Chaenomoles spp.), sometimes known as ‘japonicas’. These are ornamental bushes, often wall-trained, which produce apple-shaped quinces that can be edible.
A Japanese or ‘japonica’ quince.
Quince blossom.
The quince forms a small tree up to about 5m (16') in height. It is a pretty tree, producing large blush-coloured flowers in the spring. The large yellow fruits also have an ornamental value in the early autumn.
Although usually sold grafted on to Quince A or C rootstocks, quinces can also be grown on their own roots. (See Chapter 2, page 35, for details of rootstocks.) Unlike most fruit trees, quince can be propagated from cuttings and grown from seed.
Quinces are self-fertile, but better crops will usually result if two or more different varieties are planted in close proximity.
For details of pest, disease and other problems with quince trees, and how to deal with them, see Chapter 9 (page 159).
Conditions
Quinces prefer a moist, deep, fertile loamy soil, although they will tolerate a wide range of soil types. They can be grown in more moist conditions than most fruit trees, so if you are planting a mixed orchard, the quince is the tree that can occupy the wettest part of the site. Very alkaline soils can be problematic, leading to lime-induced chlorosis. Light soils may be improved by the addition of manure or compost before planting. Quince trees might need watering during dry spells to perform best.
A sheltered position in full sun is ideal for the quince, particularly for the full ripening of the fruit. In southern Europe, fruits will ripen more thoroughly, to the extent that they are sweet and tender enough to eat raw. So, in the British Isles, every advantage of sun and shelter should be taken to produce the best fruits. For this reason, training quinces against a wall can be beneficial, but other fruits will also be competing for such favoured spots. Quinces can be grown successfully throughout southern Britain, but are likely to need the protection of a wall further north. They flower relatively early, so frost damage can be a problem.
Quince trees will not need much feeding unless the soil is poor. Generally, compost or manure applied as a mulch around the tree will be sufficient, although in poor soils this can be supplemented by a general-purpose fertiliser, such as pelleted chicken manure. A high-potash fertiliser, such as rock potash or comfrey, can help where yields are low.
Quince varieties
Only a limited number of quince varieties are available. Many nurseries will stock only one or two varieties, the most common being Vranja and Meeches Prolific.
Pruning quince trees
Quinces are most commonly trained as bush trees, with a clear trunk of around 1-1.2m (3-4'). They can also be trained as a half standard or a fan. Quince pruning is dominated by the trees’ unruly growth habit. Growing quinces as half standards is possible where it is required to lift the canopy, either for access underneath or where animals are grazing an orchard.
Suckers are commonly produced, and should be removed regularly. Apart from this, pruning of quince trees is carried out when the trees are dormant during the winter months. For fan-training, the method is similar to that for plums (see Chapter 12, page 242); the main difference is the unruly growth habit of the quince, which makes it difficult to train it as a tidy tree. A half standard is pruned in the same way as quince bush, but with a longer clear trunk formed during formative pruning.
Quince trees can be grown as fans, though their unruly growth habit makes this difficult.
Formative pruning of a quince bush
Once the tree is planted, it can be grown on until the leader reaches a little taller than the desired height of the clear trunk. At this point, the leader is removed, just above a strong bud or lateral that has already formed. If you want to grow a half standard, it is advisable to insert a strong bamboo cane next to the tree, in order to train the leader vertically until it reaches the desired height. Remove any unwanted laterals from lower down on the trunk.
The top three to five laterals are retained to form the main branches of the tree, provided that they are growing at a wide angle to the trunk. These laterals are shortened by half to two-thirds at this stage, cutting to an outward or upward-facing bud. Any growth emerging from the trunk below the selected laterals should be removed. Any competing leaders (see photos on page 109, Chapter 8) can also be removed now.
Diagram 52 Formative pruning of a quince bush.
In year 2 the process continues, with the pruning back of the laterals to outward- or upward-facing buds, removing around one-third of the new season’s growth. Any vigorous upright or wayward growth should be removed back to the point where the branch originates. From this stage onwards, it is desirable to keep an open centre to the tree, to allow light and air to penetrate, although in practice the centre of the tree will never be clear of growth because of the wayward nature of the quince. Beware of trying to be too regimented when pruning a quince, or you will end up pruning too hard and over-stimulating the tree.
In year 3, continue this process of shortening the new growth by one-third and removing misplaced and over-vigorous branches.
Pruning an established quince bush
As the tree matures, the main effort of pruning becomes the removal of congested and over-vigorous growth, keeping an open shape to the tree. Fruit will form on one-year-old growth and also on short spurs. Regulated pruning (see Chapter 8, page 113) is a simple way to keep the tree productive, removing tired branches and training in new growth. If spurs become congested, they can be shortened. Remember not to prune too hard because of the risk of over-stimulating the tree. As with all fruit trees, pruning is the art of creating a balance between fruiting and growth.
Harvesting quinces
Quince fruit usually ripen during October, although Meech’s Prolific, Champion and Portugal are ready a little earlier. The fruits turn from greenish-yellow to a more golden yellow as they ripen. It is beneficial to leave the fruits on the tree as long as possible, but they should be harvested before the first frosts. It is best to cut the fruits from the tree, because they do not always come away easily, which can cause damage to the small branches.
Diagram 53 Pruning an established quince bush.
Storing and using quinces
Quinces in good condition can be stored for several months, either in wooden fruit trays or cardboard boxes. It is best to store them well away from other fruits, because their powerful aroma can taint other fruit. They are usually not sweet until they have ripened a little further in storage.
The fruit can be used in a variety of ways, but, given their grainy texture, a little inventiveness can be helpful. They are often used to accompany apples in a variety of recipes, enhancing the flavour of apple with their aromatic sweetness. They can also be used on their own in the same ways as apples, such as baked or stewed.
They are well known for their use in various forms of preserve. They contain high levels of pectin, helping preserves to set without the use of large amounts of sugar. Quince marmalade and jelly have both been popular in the past, although less so today. Quince pastes and spreads are popular throughout the Mediterranean, with many regional variations. These can be made in Britain, but remember that quinces from Mediterranean regions are sweeter than those grown here. Quince butter and quince ice cream are other ways of using quinces.
Quinces have occasionally been used in savoury recipes – accompanying game in a casserole, for example. Perhaps their most unusual use is to perfume a room.
Japonica quinces are also edible when cooked, used in a similar way to the true quince. Quince lemonade is sometimes made from blended japonica fruits.
MEDLARS
Although its fruit can be a challenge to use, the medlar is valuable as an ornamental tree, spreading in habit and blessed with white or pink flowers, unusual-looking fruits and clear yellow and red colours in the autumn. Lee Reich described the medlar as a fruit “lost in the Middle Ages”,* but with inventiveness the medlar can be a worthwhile addition to the fruit garden. The fruits are hard and acidic until they are ‘bletted’ – a process that involves ripening them until they are semi-rotten and taste like mulled toffee apples.
The medlar is an unusual fruit, tasting rather like a soft toffee apple.
The history of medlar growing in Britain
Medlars are native to northern Iran and the Caucasus region. They spread from there to the Mediterranean, being grown by the Greeks and Romans by the second century AD. Medlars were popular in Britain by the Middle Ages. By the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries they had acquired a rather vulgar reputation, gaining the nickname ‘open arse’, together with bawdy references in plays and poems of the time. The medlar declined in popularity once more palatable fruits began to be cultivated widely and other fruits were imported from abroad. It is now seen as a curiosity and an acquired taste enjoyed by a few.
Cultivation of medlars
Medlars are attractive trees, whose size will depend on the rootstock on to which they are grafted. Unusually, medlars can be grafted on to a variety of rootstocks from different trees. See Chapter 2 (page 55) for details of rootstocks.
Medlars are self-fertile, so only one tree is needed to produce a worthwhile crop. All varieties flower in late May, when the likelihood of damaging frost has passed.
Medlars are generally healthy trees. For details of the problems that can occur, and how to deal with them, see Chapter 9 (page 160).
Conditions
Medlars enjoy a wide variety of soils, so long as it is well drained. Warmth, sun and shelter are all important for the crop to ripen thoroughly. The flowers and young leaves are susceptible to damage by harsh easterly winds, which are commonplace in the spring. Compost or manure, applied as a mulch in the spring, will provide sufficient nutrients in all but the poorest soils. If need be, a high-potash fertiliser such as comfrey or rock potash can be added to improve the trees’ fruiting potential.
Medlar flower.
Medlar varieties
There is a very limited selection of medlar varieties to choose from, detailed in the chart overleaf. A few other varieties of Dutch and Iranian origin can be found at specialist nurseries.
Pruning medlars
Medlars are spreading trees that are usually grown as bushes on top of a clear trunk of l-1.4m (3'-4'6"). The length of clear trunk is important in order to prevent the lower branches from dragging on the ground. Medlars should be pruned in the winter, although damaged branches can be tidied up at any time of the year.
Formative pruning of a medlar bush
The methods described here are for a bush tree grown on quince or hawthorn rootstock. For medlars grown on wild pear rootstock, the most suitable method of training is to grow them as a standard. In this case, follow the methods described for an apple standard (see Chapter 10, page 189). If you are planting a maiden (one-year-old) tree, the only pruning needed in the first year is to cut back the lowest laterals, if they are present, by half.
In the second winter, select the laterals that will be kept to form the main branches of the tree in years to come. Remove the leader just above the topmost lateral. Remove any laterals that were shortened the previous winter.
Diagram 54 Formative pruning of a medlar bush.
Pruning an established medlar bush
Mature medlars need very little pruning. They form fruit on naturally occurring spurs and side shoots. The main emphasis of pruning is the removal of congested growth and the shortening of long branches, especially where they threaten to reach the ground. Long branches with heavy crops of fruit can benefit from the support of a wooden prop. Medlar trees often produce suckers originating from the base of the tree. It is best to remove these, preferably by pulling, or, if this is not possible, by cutting.
It is important not to prune a medlar too heavily because you will stimulate strong vertical growth. For this reason, it is difficult to renovate a medlar by hard pruning. A soft touch is key when pruning medlars.
Diagram 55 Pruning an established medlar bush.
Harvesting and storing medlars
It is best to leave medlars on the tree as long as possible. This usually means picking them in late October or early November, around the time of leaf fall, when they part easily from the tree.
At the time of picking, medlars are inedible due to their astringency; they need to be ‘bletted’ before they can be eaten. Bletting is the process of allowing the fruit to become soft and semi-rotten during storage. The fruit needs to be kept, calyx down, in a cool, dry, frost-free place for several weeks before it is ready. A wooden tray or cardboard box is an ideal container. The fruits should not be touching, so as to prevent any rot spreading amongst them. The skin becomes wrinkled and darker and the flesh changes from off-white to brown during this process. When the bletting is complete, the fruit tastes like a smoky apple sauce.
Using medlars
The simplest way to consume medlars is to eat the flesh raw; wine and cheese are traditional accompaniments. In some Mediterranean regions, a straw is inserted into the fruit so that the flesh can be sucked out. Medlars can be roasted over a fire or baked in an oven, then served as a dessert, perhaps with cream or wine.
However, most medlars are used for making sweet preserves of some kind. Medlar jelly is perhaps the most well known, but jam is also made. Medlar cheese is a thick, pulpy preserve, with the addition of only sugar and allspice and cinnamon for seasoning. A different type of medlar cheese uses eggs and butter to create a preserve rather like lemon curd. Medlar fudge is another idea, using the thick consistency and sweet, smoky flavour to accentuate the traditional sweet. Although most preserves are used with sweet dishes, medlar jelly can also be served with game.
MULBERRIES
Mulberries are a wonderful fruit, rather like a dark and juicy raspberry with a marked sweet and acid taste that sparkles in your mouth. Sadly, they are rarely appreciated by most people because they do not travel well, so are not to be found in shops. Of course, this is all the more reason to grow your own, although be aware that the mulberry grows to be quite a large tree. It is also a handsome tree, often growing into gnarled and unpredictable forms.
The history of mulberry growing in Britain
Mulberries are native to warm temperate parts of Asia and Europe. They were well known to the Romans and Greeks, who used them for medicinal purposes as well as for fruit. King James I is credited with bringing mulberries to Britain in the seventeenth century, planting an avenue of them in London, on the site of what is now Buckingham Palace. He planted them with silk production in mind, but unfortunately he planted the wrong trees: it is the white mulberry that is the only food of the silkworm, but he planted the black mulberry by mistake. The black mulberry is the tree that we know and grow today for its delicious fruit. The mulberry was also used as a medicinal plant in Britain, supposedly expelling tapeworms and roundworms from the intestines. It is still used medicinally today in developing countries, providing protection against tetanus.
The delicious mulberry.
Cultivation of mulberries
Mulberries are usually sold as pot-grown trees, ideally planted in early to mid-spring. They have brittle roots that are susceptible to damage. It is preferable to plant a young tree and to take great care not to damage the roots. They grow into large trees up to 15m (49') tall, which start off growing quickly but soon settle down into slow-growing maturity. They can look old and wizened while still comparatively young.
Mulberries are self-fertile, so only one tree is necessary to produce fruit. Mulberries are not usually sold as grafted trees. They can be propagated by cuttings or from seed.
They are susceptible to mulberry canker, which can be a serious problem on young trees if not controlled promptly. For details of this and other problems that can affect mulberry trees, and how to deal with them, see Chapter 9 (pages 160-1).
Conditions
Being a native of warm climates, the mulberry prefers a sheltered site in full sun. It will grow well in southern Britain, but is less successful and less fruitful north of the Midlands. The mulberry is tolerant of a wide range of soil types, but has a preference for well-drained, moisture-retentive soils with a pH of 6-7. It is least happy on thin, sandy soils that drain quickly, and particularly dislikes chalk. The addition of compost or manure will help to improve free-draining or sandy soils.
Because of their preference for moisture-retentive soil, it is worth watering young mulberry trees during dry periods. Adding a mulch of manure or compost in spring helps to retain moisture and feed the tree.
Mulberry varieties
Mulberries are sometimes listed by their Latin name Mows in catalogues. Mows alba is the white mulberry beloved of silkworms, while Mows wbra is the red mulberry, which bears inferior fruit. What you need is the black mulberry, or Mows nigra. There are a few named varieties, but in reality there is little difference between them.
King James (also known as Chelsea) is supposed to be descended from the original trees planted by King James I. Jerusalem and Italian are varieties that are supposedly superior for fruiting and earlier cropping. Illinois Everbearing is a vigorous American cultivar that is more suited to cooler climates.
Named varieties will start bearing fruit earlier than the species, usually after three years or so.
Pruning mulberry trees
Mulberries are apt to have a wayward growth habit. Although this is part of the charm of a mulberry, it is best to train the tree carefully when young, in order to create a strong, well-balanced tree. It is good practice to insert a stout bamboo cane 2-2.5m (6'6"-8') tall in order to train the leader vertically – this mitigates the tendency of mulberries to grow lopsided, to the extent that they often fall over when mature. The other structural problem that mulberries are prone to is competing leaders (see photos on page 109). Removing the weaker or less upright of the two leaders helps to avoid a structural weakness that can lead to the tree splitting later in its life.
All pruning of mulberries should take place during early to midwinter because of their pronounced tendency to bleed sap. The only exception to this is the removal of small shoots damaged by mulberry canker.
Formative pruning of a mulberry tree
If you are planting a maiden (one-year-old) tree, the only pruning needed in the first year is to cut back the lowest laterals, if they are present, by half.
In the second or third winters (depending on the height of the tree), select the laterals that will be kept to form the main branches of the tree in years to come. At this stage, you have a choice of removing the leader to form a more spreading tree, or waiting a year or two if you prefer a taller tree. At the desired time, remove the leader just above the topmost lateral. Remove any laterals that were shortened the previous winter. Remove any competing leaders as they form.
Diagram 56 Formative pruning of a mulberry tree.
Pruning an established mulberry tree
Once a mulberry is established, there is little need for pruning apart from removing damaged or misplaced branches. It is worth paying attention to the balance of the tree. If it starts to lean to one side, it might be worth removing a large branch if this helps the situation. If you are not sure, ask a tree surgeon or fruit tree specialist for advice. Another solution, if the tree is leaning heavily as it ages, is to prop it with stout wooden props.
Harvesting mulberries
Although mulberries can be picked and eaten straight from the tree, the traditional way of harvesting is to place a white sheet under the tree, giving the tree a gentle shake to dislodge any fruit that are ripe. The sheet is then lifted and gathered together gently to collect the fruit. The fruit ripens over a long period in late summer to early autumn.
A word of warning – mulberries stain very easily and stick to shoes, so take care not to plant a tree overhanging the path to your house, or you may end up with carpets spotted with mulberry juice.
Using mulberries
Mulberries will not keep, so either eat them straight away or use them in the various preserves that enjoy their flavour. They can be used in much the same way as raspberries or blackberries in cooking, although they seem to be better when not cooked too long. Mulberry ice cream, summer pudding and fool are examples of good uses. They are great for fruit salad, where their tart sweetness enlivens other fruits.
Mulberry gin is a traditional recipe for the alcoholically inclined. Mulberries can also be frozen, although they will lose some of their wonderful texture.
FIGS
Figs, like many of the less common fruits featured here, are also more at home in their Mediterranean homeland, but are still well worth growing in Britain. They are one of those fruits that is incomparably better when grown at home rather than bought in the shops. Savouring their delicious, juicy stickiness just before the wasps and hornets join in is one of those delights of summer that is barely matched.
The history of fig growing
The fig is thought to be one of the first plants cultivated by humankind. Excavations at Gilgal in the Jordan valley have revealed traces of fig cultivation dated between 9400 and 9200 BC. Figs are thought to originate from the area around Afghanistan and Iran, but they are now naturalised in much of the warm temperate and subtropical world.
Figs were well known during the height of Roman and Greek civilisations. The Greeks claimed that figs were gifted to them by the goddess Demeter. Cato mentions six different figs and Pliny twenty-nine. Archaeological remains have shown that figs were present in Britain in Roman times, although it is uncertain whether they were actually grown here.
Ripening figs. They will turn a purple-brown colour and hang down when ripe.
The first recorded planting of figs in Britain was by Cardinal Pole at Lambeth Palace in 1552. It is thought the variety might have been White Marseille, one still available today. Figs became a fruit that was enjoyed largely by the aristocracy; their cultivation has always been marginal here, so the large walls and greenhouses of stately homes were made best use of.
Cultivation of figs
Fig trees appreciate warm, sunny conditions, but can be grown easily in warm parts of the British Isles, even though their fruits develop and ripen over two seasons because of our cool climate. Even in cooler areas, figs might succeed if they are trained against a sunny wall. Providing a tree is well looked after, you can expect 50 to 100 figs a year, and far superior to any that you are likely to find in the shops.
Figs are grown on their own roots, not grafted on to rootstocks. They are largely untroubled by pests and diseases, apart from those pests that would like to eat the fruit before you do. See Chapter 9 (page 160) for details.
Conditions
In order to appreciate the art of growing figs, it is worth looking at their native habitat in the heat of the Mediterranean and Middle Eastern climate. They thrive on rocky hillsides, where the drainage is sharp and the heat is reflected by the rocks and warm, bare soil. This is entirely the opposite of the comparatively cold, wet soils and climate of Britain. So, the more we can do to replicate the warm, rocky conditions of the fig’s homeland, the better. A sunny and sheltered location is preferable, such as against a south-facing wall of the house. Figs fruit best where growth is restricted by a pot, raised bed or a planting pit (see right and Diagram 57 on page 294).
Fruiting well is not the same as growing well: fig trees will grow well if given a free root run and plenty of nitrogen, but they will not crop well. As with all fruit trees, there is a need to balance vegetative growth with fruit production. With fig trees, there is more of a need to restrict growth in order to encourage fruiting.
Growing figs in a container
Figs are well suited to growing in pots, apart from two potential problems. The first is that figs can become large, heavy trees that can easily blow over. Tying the tree to a stable object such as a vine eye in a wall will overcome this difficulty The second potential problem is that figs will shed their crop if they become stressed by drought. Although they enjoy warm, dry conditions, figs in pots require a surprising amount of water. They will also need some feeding with a high-potash feed, such as tomato food or comfrey liquid, in order to do best. A foliar feed of seaweed will help to strengthen the tree and protect against fungal disease.
A fig tree growing in a large container.
Figs can be started off in a 25-30cm (10-12") container, depending on their size when obtained. A soil-based compost such as John Innes No.3 is the ideal growing medium. Crocks or grit in the bottom of the pot will help to keep the drainage sharp. Lifting the pot just off the ground with pot feet or bricks will help to avoid waterlogging in winter. Alternatively, figs will enjoy a spell in the greenhouse over the winter months.
Figs can be potted on every one to two years, gradually increasing the size of pot. When re-potting, plant the fig 2-3cm (1") deeper than it was before and remove around 20 per cent of the rootball by cutting it back with a sharp knife. Once re-potting becomes difficult, because the tree and pot become too large, the pot can be plunged into the soil in a suitable place. The retention of the pot will still restrict the roots.
Growing figs against a wall
A south-facing wall is an ideal location because figs will enjoy the warmth retained by the wall, the shelter from cold winds and the rain shadow created by the wall. The base of a wall is often an easy place to restrict root growth, either by using paving slabs or a raised border or concrete path. Fig fans can become vigorous plants, so a strong framework of wires will be needed to train them on. Fig fans can be contained in an area about 2.5m (8') high and 4.5m (14'6") wide.
In more northern areas of Britain, some kind of winter protection is preferable. This can be formed of fleece or more natural materials, such as straw or bracken contained by netting or chicken wire.
Creating a planting pit for figs
Sometimes, there will be no obvious place to plant a fig where the roots will be restricted, so the tree will need to be planted in the open; in this case you can restrict the roots by creating a planting pit. Dig a large square hole where the tree is to be planted. Place paving slabs (ideally 60x60cm [2x2']) around the sides of the hole, so that they protrude very slightly above the soil level; this prevents the roots from spreading on the soil surface. Place a thick layer of rubble, bricks, etc. in the bottom of the planting hole to improve the drainage and to hinder the formation of large tap roots (see Diagram 57 overleaf).
Diagram 57 Planting a fig tree in a rubble pit.
Some soils that are normally thought of as being difficult will actually suit figs well. Both chalk and heavy clay soils will restrict root development naturally. Although heavy clay soils can inhibit root development, the drainage is likely to be poor, so serious attention will need to be paid to improving this.
Watering might be necessary during drought conditions in the summer. Feeding should veer towards high-potash feeds rather than those high in nitrogen. Farmyard manure or compost applied as a mulch in spring can be supplemented with tomato feed in summer.
The fruiting cycle of figs
It is very easy to become confused by the fruiting cycle of figs, because they carry different generations of fruit on the tree all at the same time. In the British climate, once the ripe fruits have been picked, there will be two types of fruit left on the tree. The larger ones, from about marble size upwards, are fruits produced this season that will not ripen properly. The fruits that will ripen next year are now the size of a pea or even smaller. They can be seen mostly on the final 20-30cm (8-12") of shoots that have grown this year.
The larger fruits are likely to split or fall off during the winter. Removing all the fruits larger than a pea in November allows the tree to put its energy into developing the small fruits ready for next season. In other words, the fruits need to develop over two seasons in our climate. It is the fruits that would normally develop and ripen over one season in a warmer climate that are removed in order to help the embryonic fruits develop for the following year.
The same section of a fig tree before and after removing the larger fruits in November.
After removing the larger fruits, just the embryonic fruits remain, ready to grow and ripen the following year.
Fig varieties
There are over 600 varieties of figs in cultivation, but only a small number are suitable for growing in our cool climate. There are many varieties suitable for growing in a large greenhouse (Reads Nursery – see Resources – lists a large selection), but just three varieties that are widely stocked for outdoor cultivation in Britain, listed in the chart overleaf. They are all self-fertile, so only one tree needs to be planted.
Pruning fig trees
Fig trees are usually trained as a bush or as a fan, preferably against a south-facing wall, where they will benefit from the warmth and shelter. They are best planted in late winter or early spring, once the harshest of the winter weather has passed. Most pruning of figs is carried out in spring, with April being the normal time in southern Britain, but extending into May in the North. Be aware that the milky sap of figs can be an irritant to the skin.
Formative pruning of a fig bush
Formative pruning of a bush tree is the same as that for an apple bush (see Chapter 10, page 185), except for the time of pruning. Figs benefit from being trained into an open shape, so that maximum amounts of sunlight can reach developing fruits, so ensure that the branch framework does not become too dense.
Pruning an established fig bush
Once the bush is established, spring pruning aims to keep the branch structure clear and open (see Diagram 58). Any crossing branches should be removed and areas of overcrowded growth thinned. Occasionally, older branches can be cut back to a young replacement shoot in order to encourage new growth. Any frost-damaged growth should be removed.
Figs are also pruned in the summer, with the aim of increasing light and helping to reduce the crop of unwanted figs that will not ripen. This is done by pinching out all new growth to restrict it to five or six leaves per shoot. Because fig leaves are so large, it can be worth removing individual leaves that are casting a shadow on ripening fruits.
Diagram 58 Pruning an established fig bush, spring.
Fig trees that have been neglected can be restored by hard pruning. It is helpful to feed the tree whenever hard pruning is carried out, because the pruning will encourage the tree to put on lots of new growth.
Formative pruning of a fig fan
Firstly, ensure that the wall is clothed with a structure of strong wires to hold the branches in place. Plant a two-year-old feathered tree at least 20cm (8") away from the wall. Cut back the leader to leave the lowest two laterals (see Diagram 59). These can be tied in with bamboo canes at an angle of about 45 degrees to the ground. Shorten these two laterals by about half if weak, or less if growing strongly. If planting a maiden tree, allow it to grow on for a year, until strong laterals are in place. If two strong laterals are not apparent, the leader can be cut back hard in order to stimulate new growth that will produce two suitable branches for the following season.
Diagram 59 Formative pruning of a fig fan, first year, spring.
Diagram 60 Pruning an established fig fan, spring.
After this, a fig fan is formed in the same way as a peach fan (see Chapter 14, page 266), except that the branches need to be further apart because of the large size of fig leaves.
Pruning an established fig fan
Once the space on the wall has been filled in, the aim of pruning is to keep an open branch structure and to encourage the growth of young shoots that will bear figs on their tips. Towards the ends of branches, cut back fruited shoots to one bud in order to encourage new growth. Some shoots will need to be left, because they are bearing the embryonic fruits that will ripen in the coming season (see Diagram 60). Approximately one branch on either side of the fan can be removed each year, or cut back to young growth that will form a replacement. Any frost-damaged wood or vigorous upright growth can also be removed at this time, along with shoots growing towards or away from the wall.
Harvesting figs
As figs ripen, they turn from green towards dark brown or even purple, apart from the so-called green figs or white figs, such as White Marseille: these just turn a little more yellow. They also lose their semi-erect stance and begin to droop.
Once the figs have been picked, there is nothing better than eating them straight from the tree. Even if there are others waiting for them indoors, I consider it the right of the fig harvester to sample a few, to ensure that they are fit for others to eat!
Using figs
If sufficient numbers of them make it into the house, there is a whole range of uses to which figs can be put. To my mind, they are so wonderful that eating them for dessert, perhaps served with a dollop of clotted cream and some walnuts, is pleasure enough. Orange juice is a frequent accompaniment for figs, while blue cheese gives a more savoury flavour. Alcohol, such as brandy or port, is also a suitable companion.
As with most fruits, there is a range of jams, chutneys and other preserves that can be made from figs. Fig ice cream, fig and almond tart and figgy pudding are all delicious desserts. Figs can also be bottled, usually with some form of alcoholic syrup, or dried in a slow oven or drying box. Figs are best kept out of the fridge and freezer.
LESS COMMON FRUITS
All the major types of fruit grown in the British Isles have now been covered in this book; they tend to be popular for a reason, which is that they are either delicious or easy to grow, or in many cases both. There are also a number of other fruit trees that were commonly used in the past, but are now considered marginal. Despite their relative obscurity, these fruits are still worthy of consideration.
Elderberries
The elder (Sambucus nigra) is a well-known native tree of the English countryside. It carries flat-topped creamy-white blossoms in May that have turned to deep-purple berries by the end of the summer. Elder is a tree that has strong associations with the superstition and folklore of country people. In centuries gone by it was used as a protection against witches and magic. It has been said that anyone cutting down an elder would be cursed with bad luck.
In addition to its folk significance, the elder has always been a useful plant, both for its wood and for its flowers and berries. The flowers have been used in herbal medicine as well as for making various drinks. Elder-flower cordial and elderflower champagne, for example, are available commercially and also commonly made at home.
The berries are used to make a syrup that is said to strengthen the immune system and cure respiratory illnesses. This syrup also makes a delicious cordial or a healthy accompaniment to ice cream. The berries were also used medicinally in the past; the sixteenth-century English herbalist Gerard says that the berries “are good for such as have the dropsie, and such as are too fat, and would faine be leaner”. The Romans used the berries to dye their hair black. Elderberry wine and jam are other common uses for the fruit.
Elderberries can be used to make healthy cordials or syrup.
The Devon sorb apple, or otmast. The speckling is a normal feature of this fruit.
While elder is usually thought of as a hedgerow tree in England, it is also grown commercially for use in drinks and medicine. This commercial use has resulted in the development of a number of varieties of elder that have been bred to improve upon the yields of the native tree. There are cultivars from countries in Northern and Eastern Europe, such as Bradet or Samdal, which carry heavy crops of large berries. The American elderberry (Sambucus canadensis) bears flowers from July to October. It is not self-fertile, but fruits will follow, so long as pollination takes place. Johns and York are cultivars selected from this tree.
Rowan berries and chequers
There are various berries produced on different types of trees in the Sorbus genus. Rowan berries are one example, produced on the rowan or mountain ash tree (Sorbus aucuparia). One form of this tree is Sorbus aucuparia var. edulis, which was introduced in the 1800s, bearing larger berries that are less bitter than the species (S. aucuparia). The whitebeam (Sorbus aria) and the service tree (Sorbus domestica) both carry edible fruits that were eaten by children before more pleasant ‘sweets’ became available.
Chequers also have their place in British history, as evidenced by the number of pubs called The Chequers. These small fruits of the wild service tree (Sorbus torminalis) were used for making an alcoholic drink a little like cider, which probably accounts for the number of pubs bearing their name.
Some of these Sorbus fruits are bletted, in the same way that medlars are (see page 288), to sweeten them and improve their texture. Rowan jelly has traditionally been served as an accompaniment to venison and game.
Rowans hybridise easily, producing regional variations. The Devon sorb apple (Sorbus devoniensis) is an example; it is a small tree that produces sorb apples or otmasts, which were traditionally used for stuffing turkey and game.
Hawthorn berries
It might surprise you to find hawthorns listed as a cultivated fruit. In Britain we see them adorning hedgerows with blossom in May and red haws in the autumn, but they are rarely thought of as a fruit to be planted in an orchard.
Yet, in many parts of the world hawthorns {Crataegus spp.) are perceived as edible. In Mediterranean countries, the azarole {Crataegus azarolus) is cultivated for its yellow or red cherry-sized fruits that taste a little like toffee apples. The tansy-leaved hawthorn (C. tanacetifolia) also carries fruit like yellow crab apples.
A variety of Chinese hawthorn (C. pinnatifida), known as Big Golden Star, bears red fruit about 2-3cm (1") across that are usually used for cooking. Many of the hawthorn cultivars sold for fruit production come from America. C. durobrivensis and C. ellwangeriana are examples.
Edible hawthorn berries.
There is even a tree called x Crataemespilus grandiflora, which is a cross between a hawthorn and a medlar, producing reddish-brown fruits like a large haw.
BORDERLINE FRUITS
Fruits such as haws and chequers are approaching the borderline of fruits that are worth gathering, let alone those that are worth planting. Yet, if you enjoy experimenting with unusual fruits, or have room for trees that are ornamental as well as productive, you might find a place for such trees in your garden. There are many other trees that are not usually cultivated for their fruits, but which might yield a harvest that is useful or interesting. Examples are juniper berries (Juniperus spp.), the fruits of the strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo), Cornelian cherries (Cornus mas) or juneberries (Amelanchier spp.).
Other fruits are in widespread cultivation, but don’t quite make it in our temperate climate without the use of a cold greenhouse for winter protection, and thus fall outside the remit of this book. Most of the citrus family falls into this category. Olives will fruit outside, but only just. This might change if global warming gathers pace, but for now olives remain a marginal crop, grown on a pretty tree. I have looked after a loquat tree for the past ten years; it has fruited only once – after two warm summers, one to ripen the wood and one to ripen the fruit. Such a tree, though decorative, is again marginal for fruit production in the present British climate.
