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A | B | C | D | E
F | G | H | I | J
K | L | M | N | O
P | R | S | T | V
W | Y | Z
ajika, 38–43
Cucumbers with Ajika, 47
Green Ajika, 40–41
Red Ajika, 42–43
almonds: Oasis Baqlava, 294, 295–96
apricots:
Apricot Moraba (Aritch Merabese), 318, 319, 320
Apricot-Walnut Pastry (Paghlava), 283–84, 284, 285
Cabbage Rolls Stuffed with Beans and Tart Fruit (Basuts Dolma), 124–25, 125
Dried Apricot Soup with Wheat Berries, 96, 97–98
Fruit Leather, 314–15, 315
Kurdish Stew with Dried Fruit and Split Peas (Shley Gosht e Narim), 194
Lahich-Style Kofta Soup (Kufta Bozbash), 102–3
Roasted Fish with Walnut Paste (Baliq Levangi), 151
Tabriz Meatball Soup (Kofta Tabrizi), 100–101
Tart-Sweet Apricot and Raisin Relish, 33, 174
Thanksgiving-Pumpkin Rice (Khapama), 120–21
Aramaic language, 129
Ararat Shepherd’s Eggless Omelet, 58–59
Armenia, 13–14
breakfast, 320
closer look, 347–48
travel notes, 352–53
Armenian Coffee (Soorj), 304, 305
Armenian Herissah, 232–33
Armenian Puff Pastry Cake (Gata), 274, 286, 287–89, 289, 304
Armenian Yogurt Soup, 95
ash:
Farmstead Winter Soup (Ash-e-Abgoureh), 110–11
New Year’s Bean Soup (Ash-e-Reshteh), 112–13
Pomegranate Ash with Meatballs (Ash-e-Anar), 106, 107–8
Assyrian Encounters, 129
Assyrians, 9, 11, 12, 86, 129, 339, 341, 343, 345, 347, 355, 358, 359
Azerbaijan, 14
closer look, 348–50
travel notes, 352–53
Azeri Mushrooms, 76
Azeri Mushrooms with Egg, 77
Baku Fish Kebabs (Baliq Shashlik), 154–55, 156
Baku-Style Tomato Salad, 49
Barbari Bread (Naan-e-Barbari), 266, 267–70, 269
barberries, 101, 278
Barberry Rice (Zereshk Polo), 215
Onion Salad with Barberries, 50, 51
Roast Chicken with Persian Flavors, 176–77
Tabriz Meatball Soup (Kofta Tabrizi), 100–101
Thanksgiving-Pumpkin Rice (Khapama), 120–21
beans:
Cabbage Rolls Stuffed with Beans and Tart Fruit (Basuts Dolma), 124–25, 125
Farmstead Winter Soup (Ash-e-Abgoureh), 110–11
Hearty Lamb Stew with Chickpeas and Potatoes (Abgusht), 188–89
Kurdish White Beans (Shley Fasouleh), 84, 85
Lobio with Pomegranate and Onion, 88–89
New Year’s Bean Soup (Ash-e-Reshteh), 112–13
Precooked Beans Habit, The, 82
Walnut and Bean Pâté (Lobahashu), 72, 73
beef:
Beef Stew with Onion and Tomato (Kharcho), 199
Cabbage Dolmas, 122–23
Easter Stew with Tarragon (Chakapuli), 184, 185
Emmer Mushroom Pilaf (Hajarov Pilav), 230, 231
Farmstead Winter Soup (Ash-e-Abgoureh), 110–11
Kurdish Stew with Dried Fruit and Split Peas (Shley Gosht e Narim), 194
Lahich-Style Kofta Soup (Kufta Bozbash), 102–3
Mini Dumplings (Jirs), 114, 133–34
Persian Café Kebabs with Grilled Tomatoes (Koobideh Kebab), 158, 161–62
Pomegranate-Marinated Kebabs (Torshe Kebab), 164, 165–66
Spiced Beef Shank, 195
Tabriz Meatball Soup (Kofta Tabrizi), 100–101
Topknot Dumplings (Khinkali), 118, 130–31
Wine-Country Beef Kebabs (Mtsvadi), 171
Beet Borani, 57
Beet Pkhali, 71
Berry Kompot, 326
Bitter Orange Syrup for Sharbat, 332
Boomerang Breads (Dedas Puri), 229, 255, 256–57
breads, 236, 237–73
Barbari Bread (Naan-e-Barbari), 266, 267–70, 269
Boomerang Breads (Dedas Puri), 229, 255, 256–57
Bread Frittata (Dedas Kharcho), 271
Bulgur Breads (Nane Sauer), 239
Cheese-Filled Pastries (Penovani), 247–48
Cheese-Filled Quick Breads (Emereti Khachapuri), 250, 251–53, 253
Finger-Dented Breads, 262–63
Georgian-Style Flaky Pastry, 248
Half-Moon Hand Pies (Kutab; Kalana), 127, 128
Home-Style Bread Dough, 254
Kerchief Flatbreads from Kurdistan (Nane-Tire), 178, 191, 240–42, 242
Lavash, 242, 243
Old-Bread Cheese Pie (Banrakhash), 272–73
Persian Pebble Bread (Naan-e-Sangak), 259, 260, 261–62
poolish, 267
Yeasted Khachapuri, 253
bulgur:
Bulgur Breads (Nane Sauer), 239
Cabbage Rolls Stuffed with Beans and Tart Fruit (Basuts Dolma), 124–25, 125
Bushir-Style Fried Stuffed Fish, 144–46
cabbage:
Cabbage Dolmas, 122–23
Cabbage Rolls Stuffed with Beans and Tart Fruit (Basuts Dolma), 124–25, 125
cannabis (note), 125
Cardamom Cookies, 294, 296–97
Carrot Moraba (Moraba ye Haveej), 321
Caspian Interludes, 140, 153
Caucasia, 346
Caucasus Fried Potatoes, 75
cheese:
Ararat Shepherd’s Eggless Omelet, 58–59
Cheese-Filled Pastries (Penovani), 247–48
Cheese-Filled Quick Breads (Emereti Khachapuri), 250, 251–53, 253
Elargi, 234–35
Half-Moon Hand Pies (Kutab; Kalana), 127, 128
Old-Bread Cheese Pie (Banrakhash), 272–73
cherries:
Fruit Leather, 314–15, 315
Roast Chicken with Persian Flavors, 176–77
chicken:
Armenian Herissah, 232–33
Baked Persian Rice (Tahchin), 222–23
Chicken Giblets in Spiced Walnut Dressing, 206–7
Classic Pomegranate-Walnut Chicken Stew (Fesanjun Khoresh), 204–5
Jairan’s Chicken Plov, 224–27
Kurdish Fried Chicken in Broth, 200, 201
Kurdish Stew with Dried Fruit and Split Peas (Shley Gosht e Narim), 194
Roast Chicken with Persian Flavors, 176–77
Stuffed Vegetables (Dolma), 126–27
chickpea flour, roasting (note), 299
chickpeas:
Cabbage Rolls Stuffed with Beans and Tart Fruit (Basuts Dolma), 124–25, 125
Hearty Lamb Stew with Chickpeas and Potatoes (Abgusht), 188–89
Lahich-Style Kofta Soup (Kufta Bozbash), 102–3
Coffee, Armenian (Soorj), 304, 305
condiments, 17–43
Garlic-Vinegar Dipping Sauce, 132
Georgian Ajika, 38–43
Mint Oil (Nane Dagh), 19
Persian Angelica Salt (Golpar Namak), 30
Pomegranate-Coriander Sauce, 35
Pomegranate-Walnut Sauce, 157
Rhubarb Sauce, 327
Saffron Water, 27, 27
Sour Plum Sauce (Tkemali), 34
Spice Blend for Tea, 302
Spiced Walnut Dressing, 206–7
Svanetian Salt (Svanuri Marili), 31, 84
Tart-Sweet Apricot and Raisin Relish, 33, 174
Walnut Paste (Levangi), 151
Walnut Sauce (Bazha), 32
coriander:
Kerman-Bazaar Lamb Stew (Khoresht Gormeh-Sabzi), 186–87
Pomegranate Ash with Meatballs (Ash-e-Anar), 106, 107–8
Pomegranate-Coriander Sauce, 35
cranberries: Roast Chicken with Persian Flavors, 176–77
cucumbers:
Baku-Style Tomato Salad, 49
Cucumber and Tomato Salad with Pomegranate Molasses, 48, 50
Cucumber Salad with Sumac and Mint, 47, 174
Cucumbers with Ajika, 47
Date-Nut Halvah (Hormah Bereshte), 293
dill: Kerman-Bazaar Lamb Stew (Khoresht Gormeh-Sabzi), 186–87
dolmas, 115–27
Cabbage Dolmas, 122–23
Cabbage Rolls Stuffed with Beans and Tart Fruit (Basuts Dolma), 124–25, 125
Fried Eggplant Roll-Ups (Badrigiani), 117, 118, 119
Peppers with Walnut Paste, 119
Stuffed Vegetables, 126–27
Thanksgiving-Pumpkin Rice (Khapama), 120–21
Duck Fesanjun, 205
dumplings, 115, 116, 130–35
Dumplings with Yogurt, 134
Georgian Topknot Dumplings (Khinkali), 118, 130–31
Mini Dumplings (Jirs), 114, 133–34
Mushroom Khinkali, 132
Sweet Fantasy Jirs, 135
Easter Stew with Tarragon (Chakapuli), 184, 185
eggplant:
Eggplant and Tomato Stew (Bainjan Shley), 64–65
Eggplant Borani (Borani ye Bademjan), 62–63
Eggplant with Kashk (Kashk-e-Bademjan), 63
Fried Eggplant Roll-Ups (Badrigiani), 117, 118, 119
Grilled Eggplant, 60
Grilled-Eggplant Pâté (Pkhali Bademjan), 69
Grilled Eggplant with Pomegranate Seeds (Anar Bademjan), 61
Stuffed Vegetables (Dolma), 126–27
eggs:
Azeri Mushrooms with Egg, 77
Bread Frittata (Dedas Kharcho), 271
Herbed Yogurt Soup (Dovga), 94, 96
Kurdish-Style Jerusalem Artichokes, 78–79
Oasis Baqlava, 294, 295–96
Persian Greens Frittata (Kuku’ye Sabzi), 80–81
Springtime Nettle Frittata, 81
Tabriz Meatball Soup (Kofta Tabrizi), 100–101
Emmer Mushroom Pilaf (Hajarov Pilav), 230, 231
Farmstead Winter Soup (Ash-e-Abgoureh), 110–11
fish, 137–57
Baku Fish Kebabs (Baliq Shashlik), 154–55, 156
Fried Stuffed Fish, Bushir-Style, 144–46
Fried Trout with Lemon Slices, 147
Persian-Style Fried Fish Fillets, 139
Roasted Fish with Walnut Paste (Baliq Levangi), 151
Roasted Stuffed Fish, 146
Simplest Grilled Fish, 157
Spicy Fish Salad (Fish Kuchmachi), 148, 149–50
fruit, 311–39
Berry Kompot, 326
Cabbage Rolls Stuffed with Beans and Tart Fruit (Basuts Dolma), 124–25, 125
Fruit Juices (Azeri Kompot), 326
Fruit Leather, 314–15, 315
Garden of Eden, 172–73, 173
Garlic-Vinegar Dipping Sauce, 132
Georgia, 15
closer look, 350–51
Kutaisi Grandmother, 323, 323
Mount Kazbek, 351
travel notes, 352–53
Warmth at the Table in Tbilisi, 202, 203
Georgian Leek Pâté (Prasi Pkhali), 70
Georgian Polenta (Ghomi and Elargi), 234–35
Georgian Spice Blend (Kmeli Suneli), 28
Georgian-Style Flaky Pastry, 248
Georgian Topknot Dumplings (Khinkali), 118, 130–31
glossary, 354–74
goat:
Persian Café Kebabs with Grilled Tomatoes (Koobideh Kebab), 158, 161–62
Pomegranate-Marinated Kebabs (Torshe Kebab), 164, 165–66
grains, 209–35; see also rice; wheat
greens:
Half-Moon Hand Pies (Kutab; Kalana), 127, 128
Persian Greens Frittata (Kuku’ye Sabzi), 80–81
Half-Moon Hand Pies (Kutab; Kalana), 127, 128
halvah: Date-Nut Halvah (Hormah Bereshte), 293
Herbed Rice, 164, 214–15
Herbed Yogurt Soup (Dovga), 94, 96
Herb Plate, 22, 23
Honey, 306
Iran, 11–12
ban on alcohol in, 303
bread (barbari or sangak), 258–63
closer look, 341–44
Tea with Sugar in, 300–301, 301
tomb of Imam Reza, 280
travel, 52, 54, 352–53
Village Breakfast, 264, 265
women of, 104, 105, 282, 290, 291, 292, 292, 342, 343
Jairan’s Chicken Plov, 224–27
Jerusalem Artichokes:
Kurdish-Style, 78–79
Roasted, 79
jirs:
Mini Dumplings (Jirs), 114, 133–34
Sweet Fantasy Jirs, 135
kashk:
(note), 113
Eggplant with Kashk (Kashk-e-Bademjan), 63
kebabs:
Baku Fish Kebabs (Baliq Shashlik), 154–55, 156
Liver Kebabs from Yazd (Viver Kebab), 167
Marinated Pork Kebabs (Basturma), 170
Persian Café Kebabs with Grilled Tomatoes (Koobideh Kebab), 158, 161–62
Pomegranate-Marinated Kebabs (Torshe Kebab), 164, 165–66
Turkey Kebabs (Shislik Hinduska), 174, 175
Wine-Country Beef Kebabs (Mtsvadi), 171
Kerchief Flatbreads from Kurdistan (Nane-Tire), 178, 191, 240–42, 242
Kerman-Bazaar Lamb Stew (Khoresht Gormeh-Sabzi), 186–87
kofta, 101
Lahich-Style Kofta Soup (Kufta Bozbash), 102–3
Tabriz Meatball Soup (Kofta Tabrizi), 100–101
Kurdish Black Rice (Birinji Rash), 84, 216
Kurdish Fried Chicken in Broth, 200, 201
Kurdish Golden Rice (Birinji Zerde), 218
Kurdish Red Rice (Birinji Sur), 217
Kurdish Stew with Dried Fruit and Split Peas (Shley Gosht e Narim), 194
Kurdish-Style Jerusalem Artichokes, 78–79
Kurdish White Beans (Shley Fasouleh), 84, 85
Kurdistan, 12–13
closer look, 344–46
Kurdish Welcome, 67–68
travel notes, 352–53
Lahich-Style Kofta Soup (Kufta Bozbash), 102–3
lamb:
Armenian Herissah, 232–33
Cabbage Dolmas, 122–23
Easter Stew with Tarragon (Chakapuli), 184, 185
Emmer Mushroom Pilaf (Hajarov Pilav), 230, 231
Farmstead Winter Soup (Ash-e-Abgoureh), 110–11
Hearty Lamb Stew with Chickpeas and Potatoes (Abgusht), 188–89
Kerman-Bazaar Lamb Stew (Khoresht Gormeh-Sabzi), 186–87
Kurdish Stew with Dried Fruit and Split Peas (Shley Gosht e Narim), 194
Lahich-Style Kofta Soup (Kufta Bozbash), 102–3
Mini Dumplings (Jirs), 114, 133–34
Persian Café Kebabs with Grilled Tomatoes (Koobideh Kebab), 158, 161–62
Pomegranate Ash with Meatballs (Ash-e-Anar), 106, 107–8
Pomegranate-Marinated Kebabs (Torshe Kebab), 164, 165–66
Stuffed Vegetables (Dolma), 126–27
Tabriz Meatball Soup (Kofta Tabrizi), 100–101
Tahchin with Lamb, 223
Tart Lamb Stew with Fried Potatoes (Khoresht-e-Gheimeh), 181–82
Topknot Dumplings (Khinkali), 118, 130–31
Lavash, 242, 243
leeks:
Georgian Leek Pâté (Prasi Pkhali), 70
Persian Greens Frittata (Kuku’ye Sabzi), 80–81
Lemon Syrup for Sharbat, 329, 331
lentils:
Cabbage Rolls Stuffed with Beans and Tart Fruit (Basuts Dolma), 124–25, 125
New Year’s Bean Soup (Ash-e-Reshteh), 112–13
Purslane Soup (Palpina), 99
lettuce: Persian Greens Frittata (Kuku’ye Sabzi), 80–81
limes, dried (headnote), 181
Liver Kebabs from Yazd (Viver Kebab), 167
Lobio with Pomegranate and Onion, 88–89
maps, 6–7, 8
meat:
grilled, 159–77
Persian Meat Patties, 162
stovetop, 179–207
meatballs:
Pomegranate Ash with Meatballs (Ash-e-Anar), 106, 107–8
Tabriz Meatball Soup (Kofta Tabrizi), 100–101
mint:
Cucumber Salad with Sumac and Mint, 47, 174
Mint Oil (Nane Dagh), 19
Pomegranate Ash with Meatballs (Ash-e-Anar), 106, 107–8
Mulberry Country, 339
mushrooms:
Azeri Mushrooms, 76
Azeri Mushrooms with Egg, 77
Emmer Mushroom Pilaf (Hajarov Pilav), 230, 231
Mushroom Khinkali, 132
Mushroom, Tarragon, and Scallion Khachapuri, 253
nectarines: Fruit Leather, 314–15, 315
nettles: Springtime Nettle Frittata, 81
New Year’s Bean Soup (Ash-e-Reshteh), 112–13
Nomad Encounter, 190–91, 192–93
noodles: New Year’s Bean Soup (Ash-e-Reshteh), 112–13
Oasis Baqlava, 294, 295–96
onions:
Ararat Shepherd’s Eggless Omelet, 58–59
Baku Fish Kebabs (Baliq Shashlik), 154–55, 156
Beef Stew with Onion and Tomato (Kharcho), 199
onions (cont.)
Bread Frittata (Dedas Kharcho), 271
Cabbage Dolmas, 122–23
Chicken Giblets in Spiced Walnut Dressing, 206–7
Dried Apricot Soup with Wheat Berries, 96, 97–98
Hearty Lamb Stew with Chickpeas and Potatoes (Abgusht), 188–89
Jairan’s Chicken Plov, 224–27
Kerman-Bazaar Lamb Stew (Khoresht Gormeh-Sabzi), 186–87
Lahich-Style Kofta Soup (Kufta Bozbash), 102–3
Lobio with Pomegranate and Onion, 88–89
Marinated Pork Kebabs (Basturma), 170
Old-Bread Cheese Pie (Banrakhash), 272–73
Onion Salad with Barberries, 50, 51
Persian Café Kebabs with Grilled Tomatoes (Koobideh Kebab), 158, 161–62
Pomegranate Ash with Meatballs (Ash-e-Anar), 106, 107–8
Roast Chicken with Persian Flavors, 176–77
Stuffed Vegetables (Dolma), 126–27
Tabriz Meatball Soup (Kofta Tabrizi), 100–101
pantry basics, 20, 21
parsley:
Kerman-Bazaar Lamb Stew (Khoresht Gormeh-Sabzi), 186–87
New Year’s Bean Soup (Ash-e-Reshteh), 112–13
Persian Greens Frittata (Kuku’ye Sabzi), 80–81
Pomegranate Ash with Meatballs (Ash-e-Anar), 106, 107–8
peaches:
Fruit Leather, 314–15, 315
Peach Kompot, 324–25
Roast Chicken with Persian Flavors, 176–77
peas:
Farmstead Winter Soup (Ash-e-Abgoureh), 110–11
Kerman-Bazaar Lamb Stew (Khoresht Gormeh-Sabzi), 186–87
Kurdish Stew with Dried Fruit and Split Peas (Shley Gosht e Narim), 194
New Year’s Bean Soup (Ash-e-Reshteh), 112–13
Pomegranate Ash with Meatballs (Ash-e-Anar), 106, 107–8
peppers:
Ararat Shepherd’s Eggless Omelet, 58–59
Lobio with Pomegranate and Onion, 88–89
Peppers with Walnut Paste, 119
Stuffed Vegetables (Dolma), 126–27
Persia (Iran), 11–12
arts of, 16, 168
see also Iran
Persian Angelica Salt (Golpar Namak), 30
Persian Café Kebabs with Grilled Tomatoes (Koobideh Kebab), 158, 161–62
Persian Greens Frittata (Kuku’ye Sabzi), 80–81
Persian Meat Patties, 162
Persian Pebble Bread (Naan-e-Sangak), 259, 260, 261–62
Persian Rice, Baked (Tahchin), 222–23
Persian Rice, Basic (Chelo), 211–13
Persian Rice Pudding (Shir Berenj), 279
Persian Spice Blend (Advieh), 29
Persian-Style Fried Fish Fillets, 139
pine nuts: Cardamom Cookies, 294, 296–97
pistachios, 278
Date-Nut Halvah (Hormah Bereshte), 293
Rose Water Cookies (Nane Nakodchi), 298–99
pkhali (pâtés)
Beet Pkhali, 71
Georgian Leek Pâté (Prasi Pkhali), 70
Grilled-Eggplant Pâté (Pkhali Bademjan), 69
Walnut and Bean Pâté (Lobahashu), 72, 73
plums:
Cabbage Rolls Stuffed with Beans and Tart Fruit (Basuts Dolma), 124–25, 125
Easter Stew with Tarragon (Chakapuli), 184, 185
Fruit Leather, 314–15, 315
Hearty Lamb Stew with Chickpeas and Potatoes (Abgusht), 188–89
Jairan’s Chicken Plov, 224–27
Kurdish Stew with Dried Fruit and Split Peas (Shley Gosht e Narim), 194
Roast Chicken with Persian Flavors, 176–77
Roasted Fish with Walnut Paste (Baliq Levangi), 151
Sour Plum Sauce (Tkemali), 34
Tabriz Meatball Soup (Kofta Tabrizi), 100–101
Thanksgiving-Pumpkin Rice (Khapama), 120–21
Polenta: Ghomi and Elargi, 234–35
pomegranate(s), 334
Classic Pomegranate-Walnut Chicken Stew (Fesanjun Khoresh), 204–5
Cucumber and Tomato Salad with Pomegranate Molasses, 48, 50
gathering seeds for use, 333–34
Grilled Eggplant with Pomegranate Seeds (Anar Bademjan), 61
Kurdish Black Rice (Birinji Rash), 84, 216
Lobio with Pomegranate and Onion, 88–89
Marinated Pork Kebabs (Basturma), 170
Pomegranate Ash with Meatballs (Ash-e-Anar), 106, 107–8
Pomegranate-Coriander Sauce, 35
Pomegranate-Marinated Kebabs (Torshe Kebab), 164, 165–66
Pomegranate Molasses (Robb-e-Anar; Narsharab), 335
Pomegranate-Walnut Sauce, 157
squeezing fresh juice, 334
techniques, 333–35
pork:
Emmer Mushroom Pilaf (Hajarov Pilav), 230, 231
Marinated Pork Kebabs (Basturma), 170
Topknot Dumplings (Khinkali), 118, 130–31
potatoes:
Caucasus Fried Potatoes, 75
Dried Apricot Soup with Wheat Berries, 96, 97–98
Hearty Lamb Stew with Chickpeas and Potatoes (Abgusht), 188–89
Kurdish Stew with Dried Fruit and Split Peas (Shley Gosht e Narim), 194
Lahich-Style Kofta Soup (Kufta Bozbash), 102–3
Potato and Pumpkin Soup (Jajuk), 93
Tart Lamb Stew with Fried Potatoes (Khoresht-e-Gheimeh), 181–82
pumpkin:
Half-Moon Hand Pies (Kutab; Kalana), 127, 128
Potato and Pumpkin Soup (Jajuk), 93
Thanksgiving-Pumpkin Rice (Khapama), 120–21
Purslane Soup (Palpina), 99
raisins: Tart-Sweet Apricot and Raisin Relish, 33, 174
Rhubarb Sauce, 327
Rhubarb Syrup for Sharbat, 327, 330–31
rice:
(note), 108, 209–27
Baked Persian Rice (Tahchin), 222–23
Barberry Rice (Zereshk Polo), 215
Basic Persian Rice (Chelo), 211–13
Brown Basmati Chelo, 213
Cabbage Dolmas, 122–23
crust (notes), 212–13
Farmstead Winter Soup (Ash-e-Abgoureh), 110–11
Herbed Brown Basmati Polo, 215
Herbed Persian Rice (Polo Sabzi), 164, 214–15
Herbed Yogurt Soup (Dovga), 94, 96
Jairan’s Chicken Plov, 224–27
Kurdish Black Rice (Birinji Rash), 84, 216
Kurdish Golden Rice (Birinji Zerde), 218
Kurdish Red Rice (Birinji Sur), 217
Lahich-Style Kofta Soup (Kufta Bozbash), 102–3
Persian Rice Pudding (Shir Berenj), 279
Pomegranate Ash with Meatballs (Ash-e-Anar), 106, 107–8
Purslane Soup (Palpina), 99
Stuffed Vegetables (Dolma), 126–27
Tabriz Meatball Soup (Kofta Tabrizi), 100–101
Thanksgiving-Pumpkin Rice (Khapama), 120–21
rose water:
Oasis Baqlava, 294, 295–96
Rose Water Cookies (Nane Nakodchi), 298–99
Rose Water Pudding (Fereni), 278
saffron, 25–26, 26
Saffron Water, 27, 27
salads, 45–51
Baku-Style Tomato Salad, 49
Cucumber and Tomato Salad with Pomegranate Molasses, 48, 50
Cucumber Salad with Sumac and Mint, 47, 174
Onion Salad with Barberries, 50, 51
Spicy Fish Salad (Fish Kuchmachi), 148, 149–50
Yerevan Tongue Salad, 198
sangak (Pebble Bread), 259, 260, 261–62
scallions:
Easter Stew with Tarragon (Chakapuli), 184, 185
Persian Greens Frittata (Kuku’ye Sabzi), 80–81
Pomegranate Ash with Meatballs (Ash-e-Anar), 106, 107–8
sharbat:
Bitter Orange Syrup for, 332
Lemon Syrup for, 329, 331
Rhubarb Syrup for, 327, 330–31
Tamarind Syrup for (Sharbat Tambreh Hendi), 328, 331
shashlik, see kebabs
shleys (stews):
Eggplant and Tomato Stew (Bainjan Shley), 64–65
Kurdish Stew with Dried Fruit and Split Peas (Shley Gosht e Narim), 194
Kurdish White Beans (Shley Fasouleh), 84, 85
other vegetable shleys, 65
silkworms, 339
soups, 51–113
Armenian Yogurt Soup, 95
Dried Apricot Soup with Wheat Berries, 96, 97–98
Farmstead Winter Soup (Ash-e-Abgoureh), 110–11
Herbed Yogurt Soup (Dovga), 94, 96
Lahich-Style Kofta Soup (Kufta Bozbash), 102–3
New Year’s Bean Soup (Ash-e-Reshteh), 112–13
Pomegranate Ash with Meatballs (Ash-e-Anar), 106, 107–8
Potato and Pumpkin Soup (Jajuk), 93
Purslane Soup (Palpina), 99
Tabriz Meatball Soup (Kofta Tabrizi), 100–101
spices:
Georgian Spice Blend (Kmeli Suneli), 28
Herb Plate, 22, 23
pantry basics, 20, 21
Persian Spice Blend (Advieh), 29
Spice Blend for Tea, 302
Spiced Beef Shank, 195
Spiced Walnut Dressing, 206–7
spinach:
New Year’s Bean Soup (Ash-e-Reshteh), 112–13
Persian Greens Frittata (Kuku’ye Sabzi), 80–81
Spinach Borani (Borani ye Esfenaj), 55, 56, 57
Springtime Nettle Frittata, 81
squash: Half-Moon Hand Pies (Kutab; Kalana), 127, 128
stews:
Beef Stew with Onion and Tomato (Kharcho), 199
Classic Pomegranate-Walnut Chicken Stew (Fesanjun Khoresh), 204–5
Duck Fesanjun, 205
Easter Stew with Tarragon (Chakapuli), 184, 185
Eggplant and Tomato Stew (Bainjan Shley), 64–65
Hearty Lamb Stew with Chickpeas and Potatoes (Abgusht), 188–89
Kerman-Bazaar Lamb Stew (Khoresht Gormeh-Sabzi), 186–87
Kurdish Stew with Dried Fruit and Split Peas (Shley Gosht e Narim), 194
Kurdish White Beans (Shley Fasouleh), 84, 85
Tart Lamb Stew with Fried Potatoes (Khoresht-e-Gheimeh), 181–82
Street-Food Wrap, 74
Stuffed Vegetables (Dolma), 126–27
sumac: Cucumber Salad with Sumac and Mint, 47, 174
Svanetian Salt (Svanuri Marili), 31, 84
sweets, 275–309
Apricot-Walnut Pastry (Paghlava), 283–84, 284, 285
Armenian Puff Pastry Cake (Gata), 274, 286, 287–89, 289, 304
Cardamom Cookies, 294, 296–97
Cooling Yogurt Drinks, 309
Date-Nut Halvah (Hormah Bereshte), 293
Mini Gata, 289
Oasis Baqlava, 294, 295–96
Persian Rice Pudding (Shir Berenj), 279
Rose Water Cookies (Nane Nakodchi), 298–99
Rose Water Pudding (Fereni), 278
shaping cookies by hand (note), 299
Sweet Fantasy Jirs, 135
Tabriz Meatball Soup (Kofta Tabrizi), 100–101
Tahchin with Lamb, 223
Tamarind Syrup for Sharbat (Sharbat Tambreh Hendi), 328, 331
tarragon: Easter Stew with Tarragon (Chakapuli), 184, 185
Tea, Spice Blend for, 302
Tea from the Caspian, 302
Tea with Sugar in Iran, 300–301, 301
Thanksgiving-Pumpkin Rice (Khapama), 120–21
tomatoes:
Ararat Shepherd’s Eggless Omelet, 58–59
Baku Fish Kebabs (Baliq Shashlik), 154–55, 156
Baku-Style Tomato Salad, 49
Beef Stew with Onion and Tomato (Kharcho), 199
Bread Frittata (Dedas Kharcho), 271
Cabbage Dolmas, 122–23
Cucumber and Tomato Salad with Pomegranate Molasses, 48, 50
Eggplant and Tomato Stew (Bainjan Shley), 64–65
Grilled Tomatoes, 162
Hearty Lamb Stew with Chickpeas and Potatoes (Abgusht), 188–89
Kurdish White Beans (Shley Fasouleh), 84, 85
Lahich-Style Kofta Soup (Kufta Bozbash), 102–3
Persian Café Kebabs with Grilled Tomatoes (Koobideh Kebab), 158, 161–62
Stuffed Vegetables (Dolma), 126–27
Tabriz Meatball Soup (Kofta Tabrizi), 100–101
tongue:
Poached Tongue, 196–97
Yerevan Tongue Salad, 198
Topknot Dumplings (Khinkali), 118, 130–31
trout: Fried Trout with Lemon Slices, 147
Turkey Kebabs (Shislik Hinduska), 174, 175
veal: Topknot Dumplings (Khinkali), 118, 130–31
vegetables, 55–89
Stuffed Vegetables, 126–27; see also dolmas
walnuts:
Apricot-Walnut Pastry (Paghlava), 283–84, 284, 285
on a string, 316, 317
Beef Stew with Onion and Tomato (Kharcho), 199
Beet Pkhali, 71
Chicken Giblets in Spiced Walnut Dressing, 206–7
Classic Pomegranate-Walnut Chicken Stew (Fesanjun Khoresh), 204–5
Date-Nut Halvah (Hormah Bereshte), 293
Fried Eggplant Roll-Ups (Badrigiani), 117, 118, 119, 119
Georgian Leek Pâté (Prasi Pkhali), 70
Grilled-Eggplant Pâté (Pkhali Bademjan), 69
Kurdish Black Rice (Birinji Rash), 84, 216
Peppers with Walnut Paste, 119
Pomegranate-Marinated Kebabs (Torshe Kebab), 164, 165–66
Pomegranate-Walnut Sauce, 157
Roast Chicken with Persian Flavors, 176–77
Roasted Fish with Walnut Paste (Baliq Levangi), 151
Spicy Fish Salad (Fish Kuchmachi), 148, 149–50
Thanksgiving-Pumpkin Rice (Khapama), 120–21
Walnut and Bean Pâté (Lobahashu), 72, 73
Walnut Sauce (Bazha), 32
wheat, 228–29, 229
Armenian Herissah, 232–33
Dried Apricot Soup with Wheat Berries, 96, 97–98
Emmer Mushroom Pilaf (Hajarov Pilav), 230, 231
wine, 336–37
Armenian Herissah, 232–33
Easter Stew with Tarragon (Chakapuli), 184, 185
Lobio with Pomegranate and Onion, 88–89
Wine-Country Beef Kebabs (Mtsvadi), 171
women:
Caspian interlude, 140, 141
dress for, 352
of Iran, 104, 105, 282, 290, 291, 292, 292, 342, 343
Train Conversations, 221, 290, 292
yaprach salat, see dolma
Yazidi Village, 86
Yazidis, 9, 12, 86, 87, 345, 347, 364, 366, 373, 374
Yeasted Khachapuri, 253
Yerevan Tongue Salad, 198
yogurt:
Ararat Shepherd’s Eggless Omelet, 58–59
Armenian Yogurt Soup, 95
Cheese-Filled Quick Breads (Emereti Khachapuri), 250, 251–53
Cooling Yogurt Drinks, 309
Dumplings with Yogurt, 134
Eggplant Borani (Borani ye Bademjan), 62–63
Herbed Yogurt Soup (Dovga), 94, 96
Mini Dumplings (Jirs), 114, 133–34
Persian Greens Frittata (Kuku’ye Sabzi), 80–81
Potato and Pumpkin Soup (Jajuk), 93
Zoroaster’s Legacy, 36
zucchini: Stuffed Vegetables (Dolma), 126–27