Index

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Note: Page numbers in italics refer to illustrations.

A  |  B  |  C  |  D  |  E
F  |  G  |  H  |  I  |  J
K  |  L  |  M  |  N  |  O
P  |  R  |  S  |  T  |  V
W  |  Y  |  Z

A

ajika, 38–43

Cucumbers with Ajika, 47

Green Ajika, 40–41

Red Ajika, 42–43

almonds: Oasis Baqlava, 294, 295–96

apricots:

Apricot Moraba (Aritch Merabese), 318, 319, 320

Apricot-Walnut Pastry (Paghlava), 283–84, 284, 285

Cabbage Rolls Stuffed with Beans and Tart Fruit (Basuts Dolma), 124–25, 125

Dried Apricot Soup with Wheat Berries, 96, 97–98

Fruit Leather, 314–15, 315

Kurdish Stew with Dried Fruit and Split Peas (Shley Gosht e Narim), 194

Lahich-Style Kofta Soup (Kufta Bozbash), 102–3

Roasted Fish with Walnut Paste (Baliq Levangi), 151

Tabriz Meatball Soup (Kofta Tabrizi), 100–101

Tart-Sweet Apricot and Raisin Relish, 33, 174

Thanksgiving-Pumpkin Rice (Khapama), 120–21

Aramaic language, 129

Ararat Shepherd’s Eggless Omelet, 58–59

Armenia, 13–14

breakfast, 320

closer look, 347–48

travel notes, 352–53

Armenian Coffee (Soorj), 304, 305

Armenian Herissah, 232–33

Armenian Puff Pastry Cake (Gata), 274, 286, 287–89, 289, 304

Armenian Yogurt Soup, 95

ash:

Farmstead Winter Soup (Ash-e-Abgoureh), 110–11

New Year’s Bean Soup (Ash-e-Reshteh), 112–13

Pomegranate Ash with Meatballs (Ash-e-Anar), 106, 107–8

Assyrian Encounters, 129

Assyrians, 9, 11, 12, 86, 129, 339, 341, 343, 345, 347, 355, 358, 359

Azerbaijan, 14

closer look, 348–50

travel notes, 352–53

Azeri Mushrooms, 76

Azeri Mushrooms with Egg, 77

B

Baku Fish Kebabs (Baliq Shashlik), 154–55, 156

Baku-Style Tomato Salad, 49

Barbari Bread (Naan-e-Barbari), 266, 267–70, 269

barberries, 101, 278

Barberry Rice (Zereshk Polo), 215

Onion Salad with Barberries, 50, 51

Roast Chicken with Persian Flavors, 176–77

Tabriz Meatball Soup (Kofta Tabrizi), 100–101

Thanksgiving-Pumpkin Rice (Khapama), 120–21

beans:

Cabbage Rolls Stuffed with Beans and Tart Fruit (Basuts Dolma), 124–25, 125

Farmstead Winter Soup (Ash-e-Abgoureh), 110–11

Hearty Lamb Stew with Chickpeas and Potatoes (Abgusht), 188–89

Kurdish White Beans (Shley Fasouleh), 84, 85

Lobio with Pomegranate and Onion, 88–89

New Year’s Bean Soup (Ash-e-Reshteh), 112–13

Precooked Beans Habit, The, 82

Walnut and Bean Pâté (Lobahashu), 72, 73

beef:

Beef Stew with Onion and Tomato (Kharcho), 199

Cabbage Dolmas, 122–23

Easter Stew with Tarragon (Chakapuli), 184, 185

Emmer Mushroom Pilaf (Hajarov Pilav), 230, 231

Farmstead Winter Soup (Ash-e-Abgoureh), 110–11

Kurdish Stew with Dried Fruit and Split Peas (Shley Gosht e Narim), 194

Lahich-Style Kofta Soup (Kufta Bozbash), 102–3

Mini Dumplings (Jirs), 114, 133–34

Persian Café Kebabs with Grilled Tomatoes (Koobideh Kebab), 158, 161–62

Pomegranate-Marinated Kebabs (Torshe Kebab), 164, 165–66

Spiced Beef Shank, 195

Tabriz Meatball Soup (Kofta Tabrizi), 100–101

Topknot Dumplings (Khinkali), 118, 130–31

Wine-Country Beef Kebabs (Mtsvadi), 171

Beet Borani, 57

Beet Pkhali, 71

Berry Kompot, 326

Bitter Orange Syrup for Sharbat, 332

Boomerang Breads (Dedas Puri), 229, 255, 256–57

breads, 236, 237–73

Barbari Bread (Naan-e-Barbari), 266, 267–70, 269

Boomerang Breads (Dedas Puri), 229, 255, 256–57

Bread Frittata (Dedas Kharcho), 271

Bulgur Breads (Nane Sauer), 239

Cheese-Filled Pastries (Penovani), 247–48

Cheese-Filled Quick Breads (Emereti Khachapuri), 250, 251–53, 253

Finger-Dented Breads, 262–63

Georgian-Style Flaky Pastry, 248

Half-Moon Hand Pies (Kutab; Kalana), 127, 128

Home-Style Bread Dough, 254

Kerchief Flatbreads from Kurdistan (Nane-Tire), 178, 191, 240–42, 242

Lavash, 242, 243

Old-Bread Cheese Pie (Banrakhash), 272–73

Persian Pebble Bread (Naan-e-Sangak), 259, 260, 261–62

poolish, 267

Yeasted Khachapuri, 253

bulgur:

Bulgur Breads (Nane Sauer), 239

Cabbage Rolls Stuffed with Beans and Tart Fruit (Basuts Dolma), 124–25, 125

Bushir-Style Fried Stuffed Fish, 144–46

C

cabbage:

Cabbage Dolmas, 122–23

Cabbage Rolls Stuffed with Beans and Tart Fruit (Basuts Dolma), 124–25, 125

cannabis (note), 125

Cardamom Cookies, 294, 296–97

Carrot Moraba (Moraba ye Haveej), 321

Caspian Interludes, 140, 153

Caucasia, 346

Caucasus Fried Potatoes, 75

cheese:

Ararat Shepherd’s Eggless Omelet, 58–59

Cheese-Filled Pastries (Penovani), 247–48

Cheese-Filled Quick Breads (Emereti Khachapuri), 250, 251–53, 253

Elargi, 234–35

Half-Moon Hand Pies (Kutab; Kalana), 127, 128

Old-Bread Cheese Pie (Banrakhash), 272–73

cherries:

Fruit Leather, 314–15, 315

Roast Chicken with Persian Flavors, 176–77

chicken:

Armenian Herissah, 232–33

Baked Persian Rice (Tahchin), 222–23

Chicken Giblets in Spiced Walnut Dressing, 206–7

Classic Pomegranate-Walnut Chicken Stew (Fesanjun Khoresh), 204–5

Jairan’s Chicken Plov, 224–27

Kurdish Fried Chicken in Broth, 200, 201

Kurdish Stew with Dried Fruit and Split Peas (Shley Gosht e Narim), 194

Roast Chicken with Persian Flavors, 176–77

Stuffed Vegetables (Dolma), 126–27

chickpea flour, roasting (note), 299

chickpeas:

Cabbage Rolls Stuffed with Beans and Tart Fruit (Basuts Dolma), 124–25, 125

Hearty Lamb Stew with Chickpeas and Potatoes (Abgusht), 188–89

Lahich-Style Kofta Soup (Kufta Bozbash), 102–3

Coffee, Armenian (Soorj), 304, 305

condiments, 17–43

Garlic-Vinegar Dipping Sauce, 132

Georgian Ajika, 38–43

Mint Oil (Nane Dagh), 19

Persian Angelica Salt (Golpar Namak), 30

Pomegranate-Coriander Sauce, 35

Pomegranate-Walnut Sauce, 157

Rhubarb Sauce, 327

Saffron Water, 27, 27

Sour Plum Sauce (Tkemali), 34

Spice Blend for Tea, 302

Spiced Walnut Dressing, 206–7

Svanetian Salt (Svanuri Marili), 31, 84

Tart-Sweet Apricot and Raisin Relish, 33, 174

Walnut Paste (Levangi), 151

Walnut Sauce (Bazha), 32

coriander:

Kerman-Bazaar Lamb Stew (Khoresht Gormeh-Sabzi), 186–87

Pomegranate Ash with Meatballs (Ash-e-Anar), 106, 107–8

Pomegranate-Coriander Sauce, 35

cranberries: Roast Chicken with Persian Flavors, 176–77

cucumbers:

Baku-Style Tomato Salad, 49

Cucumber and Tomato Salad with Pomegranate Molasses, 48, 50

Cucumber Salad with Sumac and Mint, 47, 174

Cucumbers with Ajika, 47

D

Date-Nut Halvah (Hormah Bereshte), 293

dill: Kerman-Bazaar Lamb Stew (Khoresht Gormeh-Sabzi), 186–87

dolmas, 115–27

Cabbage Dolmas, 122–23

Cabbage Rolls Stuffed with Beans and Tart Fruit (Basuts Dolma), 124–25, 125

Fried Eggplant Roll-Ups (Badrigiani), 117, 118, 119

Peppers with Walnut Paste, 119

Stuffed Vegetables, 126–27

Thanksgiving-Pumpkin Rice (Khapama), 120–21

Duck Fesanjun, 205

dumplings, 115, 116, 130–35

Dumplings with Yogurt, 134

Georgian Topknot Dumplings (Khinkali), 118, 130–31

Mini Dumplings (Jirs), 114, 133–34

Mushroom Khinkali, 132

Sweet Fantasy Jirs, 135

E

Easter Stew with Tarragon (Chakapuli), 184, 185

eggplant:

Eggplant and Tomato Stew (Bainjan Shley), 64–65

Eggplant Borani (Borani ye Bademjan), 62–63

Eggplant with Kashk (Kashk-e-Bademjan), 63

Fried Eggplant Roll-Ups (Badrigiani), 117, 118, 119

Grilled Eggplant, 60

Grilled-Eggplant Pâté (Pkhali Bademjan), 69

Grilled Eggplant with Pomegranate Seeds (Anar Bademjan), 61

Stuffed Vegetables (Dolma), 126–27

eggs:

Azeri Mushrooms with Egg, 77

Bread Frittata (Dedas Kharcho), 271

Herbed Yogurt Soup (Dovga), 94, 96

Kurdish-Style Jerusalem Artichokes, 78–79

Oasis Baqlava, 294, 295–96

Persian Greens Frittata (Kuku’ye Sabzi), 80–81

Springtime Nettle Frittata, 81

Tabriz Meatball Soup (Kofta Tabrizi), 100–101

Emmer Mushroom Pilaf (Hajarov Pilav), 230, 231

F

Farmstead Winter Soup (Ash-e-Abgoureh), 110–11

fish, 137–57

Baku Fish Kebabs (Baliq Shashlik), 154–55, 156

Fried Stuffed Fish, Bushir-Style, 144–46

Fried Trout with Lemon Slices, 147

Persian-Style Fried Fish Fillets, 139

Roasted Fish with Walnut Paste (Baliq Levangi), 151

Roasted Stuffed Fish, 146

Simplest Grilled Fish, 157

Spicy Fish Salad (Fish Kuchmachi), 148, 149–50

fruit, 311–39

Berry Kompot, 326

Cabbage Rolls Stuffed with Beans and Tart Fruit (Basuts Dolma), 124–25, 125

Fruit Juices (Azeri Kompot), 326

Fruit Leather, 314–15, 315

G

Garden of Eden, 172–73, 173

Garlic-Vinegar Dipping Sauce, 132

Georgia, 15

closer look, 350–51

Kutaisi Grandmother, 323, 323

Mount Kazbek, 351

travel notes, 352–53

Warmth at the Table in Tbilisi, 202, 203

Georgian Leek Pâté (Prasi Pkhali), 70

Georgian Polenta (Ghomi and Elargi), 234–35

Georgian Spice Blend (Kmeli Suneli), 28

Georgian-Style Flaky Pastry, 248

Georgian Topknot Dumplings (Khinkali), 118, 130–31

glossary, 354–74

goat:

Persian Café Kebabs with Grilled Tomatoes (Koobideh Kebab), 158, 161–62

Pomegranate-Marinated Kebabs (Torshe Kebab), 164, 165–66

grains, 209–35; see also rice; wheat

greens:

Half-Moon Hand Pies (Kutab; Kalana), 127, 128

Persian Greens Frittata (Kuku’ye Sabzi), 80–81

H

Half-Moon Hand Pies (Kutab; Kalana), 127, 128

halvah: Date-Nut Halvah (Hormah Bereshte), 293

Herbed Rice, 164, 214–15

Herbed Yogurt Soup (Dovga), 94, 96

Herb Plate, 22, 23

Honey, 306

I

Iran, 11–12

ban on alcohol in, 303

bread (barbari or sangak), 258–63

closer look, 341–44

Tea with Sugar in, 300–301, 301

tomb of Imam Reza, 280

travel, 52, 54, 352–53

Village Breakfast, 264, 265

women of, 104, 105, 282, 290, 291, 292, 292, 342, 343

J

Jairan’s Chicken Plov, 224–27

Jerusalem Artichokes:

Kurdish-Style, 78–79

Roasted, 79

jirs:

Mini Dumplings (Jirs), 114, 133–34

Sweet Fantasy Jirs, 135

K

kashk:

(note), 113

Eggplant with Kashk (Kashk-e-Bademjan), 63

kebabs:

Baku Fish Kebabs (Baliq Shashlik), 154–55, 156

Liver Kebabs from Yazd (Viver Kebab), 167

Marinated Pork Kebabs (Basturma), 170

Persian Café Kebabs with Grilled Tomatoes (Koobideh Kebab), 158, 161–62

Pomegranate-Marinated Kebabs (Torshe Kebab), 164, 165–66

Turkey Kebabs (Shislik Hinduska), 174, 175

Wine-Country Beef Kebabs (Mtsvadi), 171

Kerchief Flatbreads from Kurdistan (Nane-Tire), 178, 191, 240–42, 242

Kerman-Bazaar Lamb Stew (Khoresht Gormeh-Sabzi), 186–87

kofta, 101

Lahich-Style Kofta Soup (Kufta Bozbash), 102–3

Tabriz Meatball Soup (Kofta Tabrizi), 100–101

Kurdish Black Rice (Birinji Rash), 84, 216

Kurdish Fried Chicken in Broth, 200, 201

Kurdish Golden Rice (Birinji Zerde), 218

Kurdish Red Rice (Birinji Sur), 217

Kurdish Stew with Dried Fruit and Split Peas (Shley Gosht e Narim), 194

Kurdish-Style Jerusalem Artichokes, 78–79

Kurdish White Beans (Shley Fasouleh), 84, 85

Kurdistan, 12–13

closer look, 344–46

Kurdish Welcome, 67–68

travel notes, 352–53

L

Lahich-Style Kofta Soup (Kufta Bozbash), 102–3

lamb:

Armenian Herissah, 232–33

Cabbage Dolmas, 122–23

Easter Stew with Tarragon (Chakapuli), 184, 185

Emmer Mushroom Pilaf (Hajarov Pilav), 230, 231

Farmstead Winter Soup (Ash-e-Abgoureh), 110–11

Hearty Lamb Stew with Chickpeas and Potatoes (Abgusht), 188–89

Kerman-Bazaar Lamb Stew (Khoresht Gormeh-Sabzi), 186–87

Kurdish Stew with Dried Fruit and Split Peas (Shley Gosht e Narim), 194

Lahich-Style Kofta Soup (Kufta Bozbash), 102–3

Mini Dumplings (Jirs), 114, 133–34

Persian Café Kebabs with Grilled Tomatoes (Koobideh Kebab), 158, 161–62

Pomegranate Ash with Meatballs (Ash-e-Anar), 106, 107–8

Pomegranate-Marinated Kebabs (Torshe Kebab), 164, 165–66

Stuffed Vegetables (Dolma), 126–27

Tabriz Meatball Soup (Kofta Tabrizi), 100–101

Tahchin with Lamb, 223

Tart Lamb Stew with Fried Potatoes (Khoresht-e-Gheimeh), 181–82

Topknot Dumplings (Khinkali), 118, 130–31

Lavash, 242, 243

leeks:

Georgian Leek Pâté (Prasi Pkhali), 70

Persian Greens Frittata (Kuku’ye Sabzi), 80–81

Lemon Syrup for Sharbat, 329, 331

lentils:

Cabbage Rolls Stuffed with Beans and Tart Fruit (Basuts Dolma), 124–25, 125

New Year’s Bean Soup (Ash-e-Reshteh), 112–13

Purslane Soup (Palpina), 99

lettuce: Persian Greens Frittata (Kuku’ye Sabzi), 80–81

limes, dried (headnote), 181

Liver Kebabs from Yazd (Viver Kebab), 167

Lobio with Pomegranate and Onion, 88–89

M

maps, 6–7, 8

meat:

grilled, 159–77

Persian Meat Patties, 162

stovetop, 179–207

meatballs:

Pomegranate Ash with Meatballs (Ash-e-Anar), 106, 107–8

Tabriz Meatball Soup (Kofta Tabrizi), 100–101

mint:

Cucumber Salad with Sumac and Mint, 47, 174

Mint Oil (Nane Dagh), 19

Pomegranate Ash with Meatballs (Ash-e-Anar), 106, 107–8

Mulberry Country, 339

mushrooms:

Azeri Mushrooms, 76

Azeri Mushrooms with Egg, 77

Emmer Mushroom Pilaf (Hajarov Pilav), 230, 231

Mushroom Khinkali, 132

Mushroom, Tarragon, and Scallion Khachapuri, 253

N

nectarines: Fruit Leather, 314–15, 315

nettles: Springtime Nettle Frittata, 81

New Year’s Bean Soup (Ash-e-Reshteh), 112–13

Nomad Encounter, 190–91, 192–93

noodles: New Year’s Bean Soup (Ash-e-Reshteh), 112–13

O

Oasis Baqlava, 294, 295–96

onions:

Ararat Shepherd’s Eggless Omelet, 58–59

Baku Fish Kebabs (Baliq Shashlik), 154–55, 156

Beef Stew with Onion and Tomato (Kharcho), 199

onions (cont.)

Bread Frittata (Dedas Kharcho), 271

Cabbage Dolmas, 122–23

Chicken Giblets in Spiced Walnut Dressing, 206–7

Dried Apricot Soup with Wheat Berries, 96, 97–98

Hearty Lamb Stew with Chickpeas and Potatoes (Abgusht), 188–89

Jairan’s Chicken Plov, 224–27

Kerman-Bazaar Lamb Stew (Khoresht Gormeh-Sabzi), 186–87

Lahich-Style Kofta Soup (Kufta Bozbash), 102–3

Lobio with Pomegranate and Onion, 88–89

Marinated Pork Kebabs (Basturma), 170

Old-Bread Cheese Pie (Banrakhash), 272–73

Onion Salad with Barberries, 50, 51

Persian Café Kebabs with Grilled Tomatoes (Koobideh Kebab), 158, 161–62

Pomegranate Ash with Meatballs (Ash-e-Anar), 106, 107–8

Roast Chicken with Persian Flavors, 176–77

Stuffed Vegetables (Dolma), 126–27

Tabriz Meatball Soup (Kofta Tabrizi), 100–101

P

pantry basics, 20, 21

parsley:

Kerman-Bazaar Lamb Stew (Khoresht Gormeh-Sabzi), 186–87

New Year’s Bean Soup (Ash-e-Reshteh), 112–13

Persian Greens Frittata (Kuku’ye Sabzi), 80–81

Pomegranate Ash with Meatballs (Ash-e-Anar), 106, 107–8

peaches:

Fruit Leather, 314–15, 315

Peach Kompot, 324–25

Roast Chicken with Persian Flavors, 176–77

peas:

Farmstead Winter Soup (Ash-e-Abgoureh), 110–11

Kerman-Bazaar Lamb Stew (Khoresht Gormeh-Sabzi), 186–87

Kurdish Stew with Dried Fruit and Split Peas (Shley Gosht e Narim), 194

New Year’s Bean Soup (Ash-e-Reshteh), 112–13

Pomegranate Ash with Meatballs (Ash-e-Anar), 106, 107–8

peppers:

Ararat Shepherd’s Eggless Omelet, 58–59

Lobio with Pomegranate and Onion, 88–89

Peppers with Walnut Paste, 119

Stuffed Vegetables (Dolma), 126–27

Persia (Iran), 11–12

arts of, 16, 168

see also Iran

Persian Angelica Salt (Golpar Namak), 30

Persian Café Kebabs with Grilled Tomatoes (Koobideh Kebab), 158, 161–62

Persian Greens Frittata (Kuku’ye Sabzi), 80–81

Persian Meat Patties, 162

Persian Pebble Bread (Naan-e-Sangak), 259, 260, 261–62

Persian Rice, Baked (Tahchin), 222–23

Persian Rice, Basic (Chelo), 211–13

Persian Rice Pudding (Shir Berenj), 279

Persian Spice Blend (Advieh), 29

Persian-Style Fried Fish Fillets, 139

pine nuts: Cardamom Cookies, 294, 296–97

pistachios, 278

Date-Nut Halvah (Hormah Bereshte), 293

Rose Water Cookies (Nane Nakodchi), 298–99

pkhali (pâtés)

Beet Pkhali, 71

Georgian Leek Pâté (Prasi Pkhali), 70

Grilled-Eggplant Pâté (Pkhali Bademjan), 69

Walnut and Bean Pâté (Lobahashu), 72, 73

plums:

Cabbage Rolls Stuffed with Beans and Tart Fruit (Basuts Dolma), 124–25, 125

Easter Stew with Tarragon (Chakapuli), 184, 185

Fruit Leather, 314–15, 315

Hearty Lamb Stew with Chickpeas and Potatoes (Abgusht), 188–89

Jairan’s Chicken Plov, 224–27

Kurdish Stew with Dried Fruit and Split Peas (Shley Gosht e Narim), 194

Roast Chicken with Persian Flavors, 176–77

Roasted Fish with Walnut Paste (Baliq Levangi), 151

Sour Plum Sauce (Tkemali), 34

Tabriz Meatball Soup (Kofta Tabrizi), 100–101

Thanksgiving-Pumpkin Rice (Khapama), 120–21

Polenta: Ghomi and Elargi, 234–35

pomegranate(s), 334

Classic Pomegranate-Walnut Chicken Stew (Fesanjun Khoresh), 204–5

Cucumber and Tomato Salad with Pomegranate Molasses, 48, 50

gathering seeds for use, 333–34

Grilled Eggplant with Pomegranate Seeds (Anar Bademjan), 61

Kurdish Black Rice (Birinji Rash), 84, 216

Lobio with Pomegranate and Onion, 88–89

Marinated Pork Kebabs (Basturma), 170

Pomegranate Ash with Meatballs (Ash-e-Anar), 106, 107–8

Pomegranate-Coriander Sauce, 35

Pomegranate-Marinated Kebabs (Torshe Kebab), 164, 165–66

Pomegranate Molasses (Robb-e-Anar; Narsharab), 335

Pomegranate-Walnut Sauce, 157

squeezing fresh juice, 334

techniques, 333–35

pork:

Emmer Mushroom Pilaf (Hajarov Pilav), 230, 231

Marinated Pork Kebabs (Basturma), 170

Topknot Dumplings (Khinkali), 118, 130–31

potatoes:

Caucasus Fried Potatoes, 75

Dried Apricot Soup with Wheat Berries, 96, 97–98

Hearty Lamb Stew with Chickpeas and Potatoes (Abgusht), 188–89

Kurdish Stew with Dried Fruit and Split Peas (Shley Gosht e Narim), 194

Lahich-Style Kofta Soup (Kufta Bozbash), 102–3

Potato and Pumpkin Soup (Jajuk), 93

Tart Lamb Stew with Fried Potatoes (Khoresht-e-Gheimeh), 181–82

pumpkin:

Half-Moon Hand Pies (Kutab; Kalana), 127, 128

Potato and Pumpkin Soup (Jajuk), 93

Thanksgiving-Pumpkin Rice (Khapama), 120–21

Purslane Soup (Palpina), 99

R

raisins: Tart-Sweet Apricot and Raisin Relish, 33, 174

Rhubarb Sauce, 327

Rhubarb Syrup for Sharbat, 327, 330–31

rice:

(note), 108, 209–27

Baked Persian Rice (Tahchin), 222–23

Barberry Rice (Zereshk Polo), 215

Basic Persian Rice (Chelo), 211–13

Brown Basmati Chelo, 213

Cabbage Dolmas, 122–23

crust (notes), 212–13

Farmstead Winter Soup (Ash-e-Abgoureh), 110–11

Herbed Brown Basmati Polo, 215

Herbed Persian Rice (Polo Sabzi), 164, 214–15

Herbed Yogurt Soup (Dovga), 94, 96

Jairan’s Chicken Plov, 224–27

Kurdish Black Rice (Birinji Rash), 84, 216

Kurdish Golden Rice (Birinji Zerde), 218

Kurdish Red Rice (Birinji Sur), 217

Lahich-Style Kofta Soup (Kufta Bozbash), 102–3

Persian Rice Pudding (Shir Berenj), 279

Pomegranate Ash with Meatballs (Ash-e-Anar), 106, 107–8

Purslane Soup (Palpina), 99

Stuffed Vegetables (Dolma), 126–27

Tabriz Meatball Soup (Kofta Tabrizi), 100–101

Thanksgiving-Pumpkin Rice (Khapama), 120–21

rose water:

Oasis Baqlava, 294, 295–96

Rose Water Cookies (Nane Nakodchi), 298–99

Rose Water Pudding (Fereni), 278

S

saffron, 25–26, 26

Saffron Water, 27, 27

salads, 45–51

Baku-Style Tomato Salad, 49

Cucumber and Tomato Salad with Pomegranate Molasses, 48, 50

Cucumber Salad with Sumac and Mint, 47, 174

Onion Salad with Barberries, 50, 51

Spicy Fish Salad (Fish Kuchmachi), 148, 149–50

Yerevan Tongue Salad, 198

sangak (Pebble Bread), 259, 260, 261–62

scallions:

Easter Stew with Tarragon (Chakapuli), 184, 185

Persian Greens Frittata (Kuku’ye Sabzi), 80–81

Pomegranate Ash with Meatballs (Ash-e-Anar), 106, 107–8

sharbat:

Bitter Orange Syrup for, 332

Lemon Syrup for, 329, 331

Rhubarb Syrup for, 327, 330–31

Tamarind Syrup for (Sharbat Tambreh Hendi), 328, 331

shashlik, see kebabs

shleys (stews):

Eggplant and Tomato Stew (Bainjan Shley), 64–65

Kurdish Stew with Dried Fruit and Split Peas (Shley Gosht e Narim), 194

Kurdish White Beans (Shley Fasouleh), 84, 85

other vegetable shleys, 65

silkworms, 339

soups, 51–113

Armenian Yogurt Soup, 95

Dried Apricot Soup with Wheat Berries, 96, 97–98

Farmstead Winter Soup (Ash-e-Abgoureh), 110–11

Herbed Yogurt Soup (Dovga), 94, 96

Lahich-Style Kofta Soup (Kufta Bozbash), 102–3

New Year’s Bean Soup (Ash-e-Reshteh), 112–13

Pomegranate Ash with Meatballs (Ash-e-Anar), 106, 107–8

Potato and Pumpkin Soup (Jajuk), 93

Purslane Soup (Palpina), 99

Tabriz Meatball Soup (Kofta Tabrizi), 100–101

spices:

Georgian Spice Blend (Kmeli Suneli), 28

Herb Plate, 22, 23

pantry basics, 20, 21

Persian Spice Blend (Advieh), 29

Spice Blend for Tea, 302

Spiced Beef Shank, 195

Spiced Walnut Dressing, 206–7

spinach:

New Year’s Bean Soup (Ash-e-Reshteh), 112–13

Persian Greens Frittata (Kuku’ye Sabzi), 80–81

Spinach Borani (Borani ye Esfenaj), 55, 56, 57

Springtime Nettle Frittata, 81

squash: Half-Moon Hand Pies (Kutab; Kalana), 127, 128

stews:

Beef Stew with Onion and Tomato (Kharcho), 199

Classic Pomegranate-Walnut Chicken Stew (Fesanjun Khoresh), 204–5

Duck Fesanjun, 205

Easter Stew with Tarragon (Chakapuli), 184, 185

Eggplant and Tomato Stew (Bainjan Shley), 64–65

Hearty Lamb Stew with Chickpeas and Potatoes (Abgusht), 188–89

Kerman-Bazaar Lamb Stew (Khoresht Gormeh-Sabzi), 186–87

Kurdish Stew with Dried Fruit and Split Peas (Shley Gosht e Narim), 194

Kurdish White Beans (Shley Fasouleh), 84, 85

Tart Lamb Stew with Fried Potatoes (Khoresht-e-Gheimeh), 181–82

Street-Food Wrap, 74

Stuffed Vegetables (Dolma), 126–27

sumac: Cucumber Salad with Sumac and Mint, 47, 174

Svanetian Salt (Svanuri Marili), 31, 84

sweets, 275–309

Apricot-Walnut Pastry (Paghlava), 283–84, 284, 285

Armenian Puff Pastry Cake (Gata), 274, 286, 287–89, 289, 304

Cardamom Cookies, 294, 296–97

Cooling Yogurt Drinks, 309

Date-Nut Halvah (Hormah Bereshte), 293

Mini Gata, 289

Oasis Baqlava, 294, 295–96

Persian Rice Pudding (Shir Berenj), 279

Rose Water Cookies (Nane Nakodchi), 298–99

Rose Water Pudding (Fereni), 278

shaping cookies by hand (note), 299

Sweet Fantasy Jirs, 135

T

Tabriz Meatball Soup (Kofta Tabrizi), 100–101

Tahchin with Lamb, 223

Tamarind Syrup for Sharbat (Sharbat Tambreh Hendi), 328, 331

tarragon: Easter Stew with Tarragon (Chakapuli), 184, 185

Tea, Spice Blend for, 302

Tea from the Caspian, 302

Tea with Sugar in Iran, 300–301, 301

Thanksgiving-Pumpkin Rice (Khapama), 120–21

tomatoes:

Ararat Shepherd’s Eggless Omelet, 58–59

Baku Fish Kebabs (Baliq Shashlik), 154–55, 156

Baku-Style Tomato Salad, 49

Beef Stew with Onion and Tomato (Kharcho), 199

Bread Frittata (Dedas Kharcho), 271

Cabbage Dolmas, 122–23

Cucumber and Tomato Salad with Pomegranate Molasses, 48, 50

Eggplant and Tomato Stew (Bainjan Shley), 64–65

Grilled Tomatoes, 162

Hearty Lamb Stew with Chickpeas and Potatoes (Abgusht), 188–89

Kurdish White Beans (Shley Fasouleh), 84, 85

Lahich-Style Kofta Soup (Kufta Bozbash), 102–3

Persian Café Kebabs with Grilled Tomatoes (Koobideh Kebab), 158, 161–62

Stuffed Vegetables (Dolma), 126–27

Tabriz Meatball Soup (Kofta Tabrizi), 100–101

tongue:

Poached Tongue, 196–97

Yerevan Tongue Salad, 198

Topknot Dumplings (Khinkali), 118, 130–31

trout: Fried Trout with Lemon Slices, 147

Turkey Kebabs (Shislik Hinduska), 174, 175

V

veal: Topknot Dumplings (Khinkali), 118, 130–31

vegetables, 55–89

Stuffed Vegetables, 126–27; see also dolmas

W

walnuts:

Apricot-Walnut Pastry (Paghlava), 283–84, 284, 285

on a string, 316, 317

Beef Stew with Onion and Tomato (Kharcho), 199

Beet Pkhali, 71

Chicken Giblets in Spiced Walnut Dressing, 206–7

Classic Pomegranate-Walnut Chicken Stew (Fesanjun Khoresh), 204–5

Date-Nut Halvah (Hormah Bereshte), 293

Fried Eggplant Roll-Ups (Badrigiani), 117, 118, 119, 119

Georgian Leek Pâté (Prasi Pkhali), 70

Grilled-Eggplant Pâté (Pkhali Bademjan), 69

Kurdish Black Rice (Birinji Rash), 84, 216

Peppers with Walnut Paste, 119

Pomegranate-Marinated Kebabs (Torshe Kebab), 164, 165–66

Pomegranate-Walnut Sauce, 157

Roast Chicken with Persian Flavors, 176–77

Roasted Fish with Walnut Paste (Baliq Levangi), 151

Spicy Fish Salad (Fish Kuchmachi), 148, 149–50

Thanksgiving-Pumpkin Rice (Khapama), 120–21

Walnut and Bean Pâté (Lobahashu), 72, 73

Walnut Sauce (Bazha), 32

wheat, 228–29, 229

Armenian Herissah, 232–33

Dried Apricot Soup with Wheat Berries, 96, 97–98

Emmer Mushroom Pilaf (Hajarov Pilav), 230, 231

wine, 336–37

Armenian Herissah, 232–33

Easter Stew with Tarragon (Chakapuli), 184, 185

Lobio with Pomegranate and Onion, 88–89

Wine-Country Beef Kebabs (Mtsvadi), 171

women:

Caspian interlude, 140, 141

dress for, 352

of Iran, 104, 105, 282, 290, 291, 292, 292, 342, 343

Train Conversations, 221, 290, 292

Y

yaprach salat, see dolma

Yazidi Village, 86

Yazidis, 9, 12, 86, 87, 345, 347, 364, 366, 373, 374

Yeasted Khachapuri, 253

Yerevan Tongue Salad, 198

yogurt:

Ararat Shepherd’s Eggless Omelet, 58–59

Armenian Yogurt Soup, 95

Cheese-Filled Quick Breads (Emereti Khachapuri), 250, 251–53

Cooling Yogurt Drinks, 309

Dumplings with Yogurt, 134

Eggplant Borani (Borani ye Bademjan), 62–63

Herbed Yogurt Soup (Dovga), 94, 96

Mini Dumplings (Jirs), 114, 133–34

Persian Greens Frittata (Kuku’ye Sabzi), 80–81

Potato and Pumpkin Soup (Jajuk), 93

Z

Zoroaster’s Legacy, 36

zucchini: Stuffed Vegetables (Dolma), 126–27