From Smørrebrød to Smörgås

Scandinavia

In Denmark it is smørrebrød, in Sweden it is smörgås, in Norway it is smørbrød, in Finland it is voileipa , and in Iceland it is opna blasa samlokur . But whatever it is called, it refers to an open-faced sandwich, Scandinavian style. The bread, usually a square or rectangular slice of dense whole-grain rye bread, is buttered then topped with any one of a number of ingredients, including meat, cured meat, fish, smoked fish, shellfish, fowl, eggs, or cheese, and typically complemented by vegetables such as cucumbers, tomatoes, or pickled beets, and an herb such as dill, parsley, or chervil. There is often a condiment such as mustard, mayonnaise, or fish spread from a tube, or a creamy dressing often made with mayonnaise and/or sour cream and flavored with a variety of ingredients. Then there are the cooked items such as meatballs and fish cakes.

There is nothing slapdash or rustic about these artfully arranged compositions that are served forth for breakfast, lunch, a snack, or supper. The preparation and presentation of these classic open-faced sandwiches are taken very seriously indeed, with stores, cafes, and restaurants specializing in them and vying for the attention of nations filled with besotted consumers. And no matter how old and codified the tradition of assembling and consuming these kinds of sandwiches, they always look and taste thoroughly modern. Take a page from the Scandinavian playbook and serve one, two, or an array of these delightful sandwiches any time of day, or better yet, throw a smørrebrød party!

The Bread

The most common bread for a Scandinavian open-faced sandwich is a thin square or rectangular slice of a sourdough rye bread filled with seeds and grains called rugbrød in Danish or rågbröd in Swedish. With no fat and little added sugar, the bread is considered to be one of the healthiest around and is absolutely beloved in its native lands. The most authentic versions of this bread are hard to get outside of Scandinavia, although some might be available via mail order or at your friendly neighborhood Scandinavian bakery, if you are lucky enough to have one.

Short of that, there are other options. I like to use the European-Style Whole Grain Bread from Trader Joe’s, which is darker and coarser than what is typical but has the right size (4 x 4 inches) and thickness (quite thin) and heft (sturdy for being so slimline). The German brand Rubschlager makes a light Danish-Style Pumpernickel Bread (which actually tastes like rye) and a dark Westphalian-Style Pumpernickel Bread that have the same size and denseness as the one from Trader Joe’s, while its Rye-Ola Black Rye Bread comes in a 5 x 3-inch oval.

In a pinch, you could also use any of the many Scandinavian crisp breads or cracker breads on the market made by Wasa, Ryvita, Leksands, GG, Finn Crisp, and Siljans. The bigger brands are available at most supermarkets, and others are available at specialty stores, IKEA, or by mail order.

If you have several days to devote to making rugbrød/rågbröd, you can find many good recipes online. Have fun!

Smoked Herring Salad

Makes 6 open-faced sandwiches

Scandinavians adore herring, whether pickled or smoked, and the fish shows up on many open-faced sandwiches. You can get smoked herring just about anywhere. It has quite a strong flavor, so I think a little goes a long way, which is why I call for only one can. But if you love smoked herring, definitely use two cans. And if you don’t love smoked herring, don’t despair: this salad tastes delicious with canned tuna or canned salmon. And if you don’t love fish at all, you can leave it out and still enjoy this dish. Try a glass of chilled aquavit with this sandwich—with a lager chaser, of course.

2 cups chopped shredded green cabbage

2 Persian or Kirby cucumbers, diced

2 hard-boiled eggs, diced

8 green onions, white and light-green parts only, minced

1 bunch dill, minced

1 bunch chives, minced

2 teaspoons grated lemon peel

1 (6.7-ounce) can smoked herring, drained

1/3 cup sour cream

1/3 cup mayonnaise

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1 lemon, halved

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 Scandinavian bread slices

Combine cabbage, cucumbers, eggs, onions, dill, chives, and lemon peel in a large bowl. Remove skin from herring and then flake herring into the bowl. Combine sour cream, mayonnaise, and mustard in a small bowl. Squeeze in juice from both halves of lemon or to taste. Season dressing generously with salt and pepper. Add dressing to salad and toss well. Season salad generously with salt and pepper.

Arrange bread on a platter or individual plates. Divide salad evenly among bread slices and serve.

Roast Beef with Horseradish-Cornichon Cream

Makes 4 open-faced sandwiches

Here is my take on a classic Scandinavian sandwich offering that is sure to please meat lovers. I call for store-bought slices of roast beef, but if you have leftovers, use them by all means. This sandwich is both simple and sophisticated and works well for brunch, lunch, or supper. Adjust the level of horseradish to your taste and tolerance level. Pour a Scandinavian or German lager or lighter ale.

1/4 cup sour cream

1 tablespoon (or more) drained prepared white horseradish

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 cornichons, minced

1 tablespoon minced fresh chives

4 slices Scandinavian bread

2 teaspoons butter, room temperature

4 leaves butter lettuce

8 thin slices roast beef

4 thin whole slices red onion

Additional cornichons (optional)

Combine sour cream and 1 tablespoon horseradish in a small bowl. Taste and add additional horseradish if you want a stronger flavor. Season generously with salt and pepper. Stir in minced cornichons and chives. Set horseradish cream aside.

Arrange bread on a platter or individual plates. Spread each slice with 1/2 teaspoon butter. Top each with 1 lettuce leaf. Drape 2 roast beef slices atop each lettuce leaf. Arrange rings from 1 onion slice atop each sandwich. Divide horseradish-cornichon cream among sandwiches, spooning attractively. Garnish or serve with additional cornichons.

Roast Chicken, Asparagus, and Peas in Tarragon Cream

Makes 6 open-faced sandwiches

If Scandinavians have leftover chicken, it just may turn up in a salad with vegetables and a creamy dressing on an open-faced sandwich. This one sings of spring with asparagus, peas, and tarragon. (Make sure to cook your asparagus and peas thoroughly before using.) You could also make this sandwich with turkey if you prefer. If you cannot get tarragon, you can always use another herb you enjoy. Don’t forget to start this dish an hour before you plan to serve it. Uncork a chilled Provençal rosé with this lovely sandwich.

3 cups cubed roasted or boiled chicken

1 small bunch asparagus spears, cooked and chopped

1 cup fresh or frozen peas, cooked

5 tablespoons mayonnaise

5 tablespoons sour cream

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons white wine vinegar

1 teaspoon sugar

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon

2 teaspoons grated lemon peel

6 slices Scandinavian bread

3 green onions, trimmed lengthwise and minced, for garnish

Combine chicken, asparagus, and peas in a bowl. Combine mayonnaise, sour cream, mustard, vinegar, and sugar in another bowl; whisk well to blend. Season generously with salt and pepper. Stir tarragon and lemon peel into dressing. Pour dressing over chicken and vegetables. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Taste salad and adjust seasoning with additional salt and pepper. Arrange bread on a platter or individual plates. Mound salad atop each slice. Garnish with green onions and serve.

Gravlax with Honey Mustard Dill Sauce

Makes 20 open-faced sandwiches

Gravlax is a Scandinavian specialty of dry-cured, unsmoked salmon. The main curing ingredients are salt, sugar, and dill, but every chef adds a little something different to the mix. This is my all-time favorite gravlax recipe. Gravlax is traditionally served with a mustard dill sauce, but some people prefer it with butter or crème fraîche and perhaps a few capers. Whatever you decide to put atop the bread and under the gravlax, this open-faced sandwich makes for an elegant light lunch or supper, appetizer, or hors d’oeuvre. (For the latter, serve it on cocktail rye.) This recipe makes a lot, but the gravlax keeps well and leftovers are delicious as is, in salads, or scrambled with eggs. Remember to start the curing process two days before you want to serve the salmon. Depending on the occasion, offer up Champagne or chilled aquavit with a lager chaser.

Gravlax

4 large bunches fresh dill

1 whole skinless, boneless salmon fillet, about 2-1/2 pounds (preferably wild-caught)

3 tablespoons salt

3 tablespoons sugar

1/4 teaspoon allspice

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup vodka or aquavit

Mustard Sauce

1/2 cup honey mustard

1/4 cup distilled white vinegar

3/4 cup vegetable oil

2 bunches fresh dill, minced

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

20 slices Scandinavian bread

For the Gravlax: Arrange 2 bunches of dill in the bottom of a large baking dish. Set salmon atop dill. Whisk together salt, sugar, allspice, and pepper in a small bowl. Rub over top of salmon. Drizzle vodka over salmon. Top with remaining 2 bunches of dill. Cover with plastic wrap. Top with plates to cover the salmon. Set cans atop plates to weigh down the salmon. Refrigerate for 24 hours.

Remove plates, weights, and plastic wrap. Tilt dish and spoon liquid in corner over salmon. Cover with plastic wrap, but do not add plates or weights. Refrigerate for another 24 hours.

Remove dill from top of salmon. Transfer salmon to a cutting board. Using paper towels, wipe sugar and salt mix from salmon. Cut gravlax into paper-thin slices. Arrange slices on a platter.

For the Mustard Sauce : Mix mustard and vinegar in a bowl. Whisk in the oil in a steady stream. Stir in dill. Season with salt and pepper.

For serving: Arrange bread on a platter or in a basket. Set on a table alongside gravlax and sauce and serve.

Potato and Shrimp

Makes 6 open-faced sandwiches

Scandinavians adore little shrimp, especially on open-faced sandwiches. In fact, shrimp sandwiches just might be the most popular kind! My recipe is typical of one you would find in Scandinavia, save for the potato, which is an interesting addition that you encounter occasionally. I love it, but you can leave it out if you’d like a lighter sandwich. While we don’t have the caliber of shrimp the Scandinavians get in their cold, pure water, look for the best you can find. Offer a Scandinavian or German lager, or a wheat beer such as German Weissbier or Belgian wit with this sandwich.

6 small Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices

6 tablespoons mayonnaise

6 tablespoons sour cream

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

6 tablespoons minced fresh dill

6 tablespoons minced red onion

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 slices Scandinavian bread

1 pound cooked bay shrimp, drained and patted dry

6 leaves butter lettuce

1 English hothouse cucumber, cut into 36 thin slices (you may have some leftover cucumber)

6 tomato wedges

6 fresh dill sprigs

Place potato slices in a pot. Cover with cold water. Bring to a boil and cook until tender; do not overcook. Drain potato slices.

Combine mayonnaise, sour cream, mustard, and lemon juice in a bowl. Add minced dill and onion and fold well. Season dressing with salt and pepper.

Arrange bread on a platter or individual plates. Spread 1 tablespoon dressing on each bread slice. Add shrimp to remaining dressing in bowl and mix well. Top each bread slice with 1 lettuce leaf. Divide the potato slices evenly atop each lettuce leaf. Cover each with 6 cucumber slices. Divide shrimp mixture evenly among slices and mound gently. Garnish each sandwich with 1 tomato wedge and 1 dill sprig and serve.

Fish Cakes with Remoulade Sauce

Makes 8 open-faced sandwiches

Fish cakes are beloved in Scandinavia. There is no one classic recipe; some are made with white fish and some with salmon. But they are pretty much always served with a remoulade sauce, which is quite different from the version served in New Orleans. I call for a firm white fish, but if you use something drier such as tilapia, you may need to add more milk to the recipe. Why not try a young Côtes-du Rhône Blanc or an Alsatian Riesling with this dish?

Fish Cakes

1 pound firm white fish fillets, such as cod, haddock, or halibut, patted dry and cubed

1 teaspoon salt

1 bunch chives, minced

2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) butter, melted

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 egg

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/8 teaspoon nutmeg

1/2 cup (about) whole milk

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter

Remoulade Sauce

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1 tablespoon minced cornichons

1/2 tablespoon minced capers

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/4 teaspoon curry powder

8 slices Scandinavian bread

For the fish cakes: Place fish in a food processor with salt and pulse to a rough paste. Add chives, melted butter, cornstarch, egg, pepper, and nutmeg; pulse to blend. Starting with 2 tablespoons, add enough milk to make a smooth, thick mixture (amount will vary depending on moistness of fish.) Transfer to a bowl.

Melt 1/4 cup butter in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Using 2 soup spoons, shape batter into 16 ovals. Add ovals to pan and cook until browned and fish is cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes per side (ovals will spread a bit during cooking). Transfer fish cakes to a platter. (Cook in two batches if necessary, using 2 tablespoons butter for each batch.)

For the remoulade sauce: Combine all the ingredients in a bowl.

For serving: Arrange bread on a platter or individual plates. Spread remoulade on each slice. Set 2 fish cakes on each slice and serve.

Pork Sausages with Lingonberry Jam

Makes 8 open-faced sandwiches

A classic Danish sandwich features medisterpølse , pork sausages in casing, often served with a cucumber salad. Since it’s pretty labor intensive to make those kinds of sausages, I thought I would offer up patties with all the same flavorings that go into those cased sausages, though here I pair them with lingonberry jam rather than cucumber salad, as I love the savory and sweet combination of flavors. Lingonberry jam—sometimes called lingonberry sauce or preserves—is wildly popular all over Scandinavia as an accompaniment to all manner of meat, sausages, meatballs, pancakes, and porridge. This absolutely delicious condiment can be found at gourmet supermarkets and IKEA, of course. To drink, try either a light ale or a bottle of Beaujolais Villages.

1 tablespoon butter

1 onion, finely diced

1 pound ground pork

3/4 cup cracker crumbs (from soda crackers or oyster crackers) or dry plain breadcrumbs

1/2 cup whole milk

2 eggs, beaten to blend

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

1/2 teaspoon ground clove

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

2 tablespoons (or more) vegetable oil

8 squares Scandinavian bread

8 teaspoons butter, room temperature

8 teaspoons Dijon or German mustard

8 tablespoons lingonberry jam, sauce, or preserves

Melt butter in a small, heavy skillet over medium heat. Add onion and sauté until tender, about 10 minutes. Set aside

Place pork in a bowl. Add sautéed onion. Add cracker crumbs, milk, eggs, salt, pepper, allspice, clove, nutmeg, and ginger. Using a wooden spoon or clean hands, mix all ingredients until well blended; do not overmix. Divide mixture into 8 balls and set balls on a plate.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add balls to skillet, leaving space in between each. Using a spatula, flatten balls into patties. Cook patties until browned and crisp on first side, 4 to 5 minutes; flip patties over and cook until browned and crisp on second side, 4 to 5 minutes. Add a bit more oil if the skillet gets dry, and make sure patties are cooked through; no pink should remain.

Arrange bread on a platter or individual plates. Spread each slice with 1 teaspoon butter then 1 teaspoon mustard. Top each with 1 pork patty and 1 tablespoon lingonberry jam. Serve immediately.

Roast Pork with Braised Red Cabbage

Makes 6 open-faced sandwiches

This is a classic Scandinavian flavor combination that often finds itself translated from the dinner plate to the open-faced sandwich. This makes for a complete knife-and-fork meal, perhaps accompanied by a cucumber salad and a cold beer. You can use the cabbage right away, but it actually tastes better if left to sit a day. Leftover pork and cabbage keep well, so make as many sandwiches as you want and save the rest. If you are short on time, you can always purchase a jar of braised red cabbage at the supermarket, but it won’t taste quite as wonderful as this recipe, which is a keeper if I do say so myself. A hoppy ale or a nice Côtes-du-Rhône Rouge would go splendidly with this hearty sandwich.

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter

1 head red cabbage, cored and thinly sliced

1 onion, halved and thinly sliced

1 green apple, julienned

3/4 cup dry red wine

1/2 cup firmly packed light brown sugar

1/4 cup red or black currant jelly

1/4 cup apple cider vinegar

1 cinnamon stick

Pinch of ground cloves

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 (2-pound) boneless pork loin, tied with kitchen string and patted dry

1/4 cup plus 6 teaspoons stone-ground mustard

1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

6 Scandinavian bread slices

Melt butter in a large, heavy pot over medium heat. Add cabbage and stir to coat with butter and wilt slightly. Add onion, apple, wine, sugar, jelly, vinegar, cinnamon, and cloves and stir well. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and simmer until cabbage is very tender, dark purple, and shiny, stirring occasionally, about 1-1/2 hours. (Can be prepared several days ahead. Cool completely and refrigerate. Serve at room temperature or reheat if desired.)

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Set pork fat-side up on a rack in a roasting pan. Season pork with salt and pepper. Stir together 1/4 cup mustard and herbs in a small bowl. Rub mixture onto pork. Roast pork until meat thermometer inserted into thickest part of meat registers 140 to 145 degrees, about 40 minutes. Let stand for at least 10 minutes before slicing, or cool completely, and then slice into 1/4-inch thick slices. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cool, wrap, and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before serving.)

Arrange bread on a platter or individual plates. Spread each with 1 teaspoon mustard, top with slices of pork, spoon a generous amount of cabbage over the pork, and serve.

Meatballs with Beet and Apple Salad

Makes 8 open-faced sandwiches

The Swedes love their köttbullar and the Danes love their frikadeller , or meatballs as we call them. For an evening meal, the Swedes enjoy them with creamy gravy; the Danes prefer them as is; but both like them sliced warm or cold atop a piece of bread. There are as many köttbullar and frikadeller recipes as there are households in Sweden and Denmark, and the meatballs can be made from different types of ground meat—beef, veal, pork—or any combination thereof. This recipe takes a bit from both countries. Condiments often include cucumber salad, pickled beets, braised red cabbage, or lingonberry jam; here I offer a beet and apple salad. These sandwiches are perfect for a hearty lunch or supper. Pour a frosty IPA (Indian pale ale).

1 cup finely chopped pickled beets, plus 1 tablespoon juice

1 cup finely chopped apple

1/4 cup finely chopped red onion

1/4 cup sour cream

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/2 pound ground beef (not too lean)

1/2 pound ground pork

1/4 cup whole milk

1 small onion, finely grated

1 egg, beaten to blend

1/4 cup fresh breadcrumbs

1/4 cup whole-wheat or rye flour

1/4 cup club soda

1-1/2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, room temperature

8 slices Scandinavian bread

8 teaspoons butter, room temperature

8 leaves butter lettuce

Combine beets, beet juice, apple, red onion, and sour cream. Season with salt and pepper. (Can be made several hours ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)

Using a wooden spoon or clean hands, combine beef and pork in a mixing bowl. Add milk, onion, and egg and stir well. Add breadcrumbs, flour, club soda, salt, and pepper; stir well. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Form meat mixture into 8 ovals. Melt 1/4 cup butter in a large, heavy skillet (cast iron works well) over medium heat. Add meatballs and cook until crispy outside and no pink remains inside, about 10 minutes per side. Cool to just room temperature. Cut meatballs into thin slices.

Arrange bread on a platter or individual plates. Spread each slice with 1 teaspoon butter and top with 1 lettuce leaf. Arrange slices from 1 meatball atop each sandwich. Spoon some of the salad atop each and serve.

Jarlsberg Cheese and Tomato with Marinated Cucumber Salad

Makes 6 open-faced sandwiches

Norway’s most famous culinary export is Jarlsberg. This semi-soft cow’s milk cheese has a mild, buttery yet nutty flavor, a firm texture, and is delicious raw or cooked. Riddled with holes, it is similar in appearance to Swiss or Emmenthal cheese, and there is a reason for that: In the 1820s Swiss master cheesemakers visited Norway’s Vestfold County and taught the locals some of the secrets to making Swiss-type cheese, and those locals promptly started making a cheese based on those instructions. While that cheese eventually stopped being produced, nostalgia for its taste remained. In 1956 some students at the Agricultural University of Norway decided to unearth the historic cheesemaking traditions of the region and marry them with modern practices. After a lot of research and experimentation, they came up with Jarlsberg.

The cheese is perfect in this simple but oh-so-tasty sandwich. Add slices of ham or roast pork if you like. The Scandinavian cucumber salad—which needs to be started several hours ahead—is a classic and delicious accompaniment. This calls for a richer lager, such as one in the Pilsner style.

1 hothouse cucumber, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon coarse salt

1/2 cup distilled white vinegar

1/2 cup sugar

2 tablespoons water

1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper

1/4 cup chopped fresh dill

6 slices Scandinavian bread

2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) butter, room

temperature

2 tablespoons stone-ground mustard

12 slices Jarlsberg cheese

3 tomatoes, thinly sliced

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place cucumber in a bowl. Add coarse salt and toss well. Place a plate directly atop cucumber. Top with weight such as a can. Let stand for 2 hours at room temperature; water will exude from cucumber. Drain cucumber well and pat dry with paper towels. Return cucumber to a clean bowl.

Stir vinegar, sugar, water, and white pepper together in another bowl. Pour over cucumbers and toss well. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours so flavors will marry. Drain cucumbers and transfer to a serving bowl. Add dill and toss well.

Arrange bread slices on a work surface. Spread each with 1 teaspoon butter then 1 teaspoon mustard. Divide tomato slices among sandwiches, arranging decoratively. Top with 2 cheese slices. Season with salt and pepper. Arrange sandwiches on a platter or individual plates. Serve cucumber salad alongside.