skiing at Mad River Glen
grazing sheep.
Vermont’s back roads and byways lead to picturesque villages, winding rivers, and orchards hung with heirloom fruit.
Among the most rural of the United States, Vermont can seem unchanged by passing time. More than half of Vermont’s roads remain unpaved, simple dirt tracks that lead to dairy farms, villages, and leafy forests. The small state is divided by the spine of the Green Mountains, whose rocky peaks barely break above the tree line. And more than elsewhere in New England, it’s a place defined by the seasons, from brilliant fall colors to snowy winters and springtime maple syrup.
But Vermont’s true charm lies in a blend of traditional ways and innovation. In the Northeast Kingdom, generations-old dairy families partner with young cheese makers. Maple syrup producers collect sap on horse-drawn sleds, gathering it into state-of-the-art sugarhouses powered by the sun. Fiercely independent since the American Revolution, Vermonters have a politics all their own, with yearly town hall meetings and a legislature that was America’s first to legalize gay marriage.
For a very Vermont blend of old and new, follow country roads to art-filled towns, craft breweries, and farm-to-table restaurants. Drive into the Green Mountains to summit rocky peaks and find the perfect line down a ski slope, or spend a weekend lingering in one of Vermont’s many swimming holes. To experience the state’s cultural capital, head to the lakeshore city of Burlington, where a colorful blend of students, old hippies, Yankees, and recent immigrants add a jolt of progressive energy to Vermont’s country charm.
You could breeze through Vermont in a couple of days, but travelers who slow down to the pace of this area will discover much to explore. Choose a home base in the south or the north—those regions are small enough to see on day trips from a single location. The southern mountains are gentler and a bit more touristy, while the north holds Vermont’s highest peaks and most vibrant city, the cultural capital of Burlington.
Look for S to find recommended sights, activities, dining, and lodging.
S Apple Picking at Scott Farm Orchard: Fill up on heirloom fruit and literary history at this stunning property, where Rudyard Kipling’s Vermont home presides over rolling lanes of apple trees (click here).
S President Calvin Coolidge State Historic Site: See the childhood home of the former president, who was sworn in by his father in the family parlor (click here).
S Skiing the Mad River Valley: Find some of Vermont’s best lines in this northern valley, where Sugarbush and Mad River Glen offer two entirely different takes on Green Mountain riding (click here).
S Morse Farm Maple Sugarworks: See how the sweet stuff is made on a tour of a sugarhouse in the hills outside of Montpelier (click here).
S Burlington Bike Path: This lakeside bike path winds past art installations and perfect picnic spots, then extends into the middle of Lake Champlain on a three-mile-long raised causeway (click here).
S Shelburne Farms: Catch a springtime batch of baby lambs, eat ultra-local fare at a historic inn, then explore the sprawling farms on a network of walking trails (click here).
Brattleboro’s brick-lined center is framed by gentle mountains that lend the town a dreamy, insular feel. The Connecticut River drifts right through the heart of downtown, where locals linger in cozy cafés and farm-to-table restaurants. A heady blend of art and ideas infuse life in this famously progressive community, partly driven by students that come to study everything from international development to circus skills. Maybe there’s just something in the air, because even Rudyard Kipling came here to be inspired, and he penned some of his best-loved work at Naulakha, his quirky home outside of town.
downtown Brattleboro
For the visitor, Brattleboro is the perfect place to experience Vermont’s free-spirited, intellectual side by rubbing elbows with unreconstructed hippies, professors, and aspiring clowns at one of the town’s frequent community events. Strap on dancing shoes, join the lineup and do-si-do in a traditional contra dance, browse organic apples at the vibrant farmers market, or paddle a pretty stretch of the Connecticut River.
Just north of Brattleboro is the magnificent Scott Farm (707 Kipling Rd., Dummerston, 802/254-6868, www.scottfarmvermont.com, 8am-5pm daily July-Nov.), a rolling expanse of apple trees, forest, and fields dotted with fascinating historic structures. It’s a memorable experience to pick your own fruit from the trees that march up and down the hills in parallel lines, and the on-site Farm Market sells jugs of unpasteurized cider made from the farm’s dozens of heirloom varieties (unlike most ciders, which are made from easier-to-grow Macintosh apples). Pick-your-own season usually extends Labor Day-mid-September, but call ahead for apple updates.
The rambling property is also home to Naulakha, where author Rudyard Kipling lived from 1893 through 1896. He built the vaguely ship-shaped building on a promontory with stunning views of the Connecticut River and named it for an Indian adventure story he wrote with his brother-in-law. It proved a fertile place to work, and Kipling penned the Jungle Book and Captains Courageous at his heavy desk in the “bow.” The only way to visit the home is as an overnight guest with a three-night minimum stay.
Snow, sleet, or shine, crowds throng the center of town on the first Friday of every month for the Gallery Walk (802/257-2616, www.gallerywalk.org, 5:30pm-8:30pm, free), Brattleboro’s signature social event. Everyone in town comes out for it, and no other experience will give you a better feel for Brattleboro’s unique spirit. The streets take on a festival atmosphere as neighbors catch up on news and pore over their friends’ latest creations while juggling snacks and wine. A free map and guide (available online) will help you plot a course through the 50-some venues, which are mostly concentrated on Elliot and Main Streets.
Don’t miss the exquisite Gallery in the Woods (145 Main St., 802/257-4777, www.galleryinthewoods.com, 11am-5:30pm Mon.-Sat., noon-5pm Sun.), whose focus on the “Visionary, Surreal, Fantastic and Sacred” results in surprisingly grounded and relatable exhibits that range from folk traditions to fine art. Another gem is the Vermont Center for Photography (49 Flat St., 802/251-6051, www.vcphoto.org, noon-5pm Fri.-Sun.), which hosts work by some of the region’s most skilled and creative photographers. There’s a broad range of mediums on display at Vermont Artisan Designs (106 Main St., 802/257-7044, www.vtart.com, 10am-5pm Sun.-Thurs., 10am-6pm Fri.-Sat.), and it’s an ideal place to browse for unique handmade gifts.
Recent exhibits at the eclectic Brattleboro Museum & Art Center (10 Vernon St., 802/257-0124, www.brattleboromuseum.org, 11am-5pm Wed.-Mon., $8 adults, $6 seniors, $4 students, children under 18 free) included photographs of a local drag troupe and work from an experimental weaving studio in Egypt. The museum’s unusual location in a renovated railway station is a draw, as are the one-off events, like yo-yo tutorials, poetry readings, and lectures. On the first Friday of the month, the galleries and gift shop stay open until 8:30pm, with free admission after 5:30pm, and admission is free 2pm-5pm every Thursday.
The diminutive brew house at Hermit Thrush Brewery (29 High St., 802/257-2337, www.hermitthrushbrewery.com, 3pm-8pm Mon.-Thurs., noon-9pm Fri.-Sat., 11am-6pm Sun., tours at 2pm, 4pm, and 6pm Fri.-Sat., 2-ounce samples $2) makes Belgian-inspired ales in a tiny, rustic space downtown powered by wood pellets. Try samples of the seasonal options, but don’t miss the flagship Brattlebeer, a tart, refreshing sour ale brewed with 20 percent cider and aged in wine barrels. Tart, dry, and slightly fruity, it was “inspired by the town of Brattleboro.” During winter months, the brewery closes one hour earlier.
On the outskirts of town, the Retreat Farm (350 Linden St., 802/490-2270, www.retreatfarm.org, 10am-4pm Wed.-Sat., noon-4pm Sun. early June-Oct., $7 adults, $5 children 2-18) has a family-friendly “petting farm” with dozens of animals that range from familiar to exotic. The 475-acre property is still a working farm owned by the Windham Foundation, a private organization dedicated to preserving Vermont’s rural traditions. In the spirit of being a “gateway farm,” the Retreat offers plenty of ways to interact with the resident critters, so you can scratch a pig’s belly, go eye-to-eye with a one-ton ox, and snag a selfie with an impossibly adorable dwarf goat.
All year round, the Retreat Trails are accessible from the main visitors center or from several other entry points. The network includes about 9 miles of trails. One popular walk travels 1.15 miles from the farm to scenic Ice Pond via Morningside Trail. A recent addition is the Woodlands Interpretive Trail, a 1-mile loop that is accessed at the Solar Hill trailhead off Western Avenue; the trail has a folksy, 30-minute audio guide that can be downloaded from the farm website, with idiosyncratic stories from locals.
Jugglers, acrobats, and trapeze artists take center stage at the New England Center for Circus Arts (209 Austine Dr., 802/254-9780, www.necenterforcircusarts.org, $10-20), a serious training camp for performers both silly and spectacular. Shows are held at the end of school sessions, or when a visiting circus troupe is in town, with one or two performances a month spring-fall. Aspiring circus performers can join the fun at one of the center’s shorter, one- to three-day workshops, practicing skills from the flying trapeze to contortion and clowning.
With in-house craft brews on tap and a prime riverside location, Whetstone Station (36 Bridge St., 802/490-2354, www.whetstonestation.com, 11:30am-10pm Sun.-Thurs., 11:30am-11pm Fri.-Sat.) is a year-round favorite. Take advantage of sunny weather on the rooftop deck or the beer garden: The main restaurant serves a slightly dressed up menu of pub fare, while the beer garden serves a slightly dressed down menu of pub fare.
There are bars named for Rudyard Kipling in places from Michigan to Mumbai, but Kipling’s (78 Elliot St., 802/257-4848, 11:30am-8pm Mon.-Tues., 11:30am-2am Wed.-Fri., 3pm-2am Sat.) has a distinctively Brattleboro feel, with a mashup of Irish bar, fish-and-chips joint, local hangout, and literary mecca (try the James Joyce burger). This is the sort of bar where regulars bang out tunes on the piano, and it’s a good place to mingle with the locals.
The landmark art deco building that houses the Latchis Theatre (50 Main St., 802/254-6300, http://theater.latchis.com, $9 adults, $7 children and seniors, $7 matinees) is as much a part of the show as anything on the screen. Its 750-seat main theater has an iridescent mural of the zodiac on the ceiling and frolicking Greeks along the walls. Three movie theaters show a mix of first-run and independent films. The 1938 building is also a hotel.
On the other end of the spectrum, patrons of the Hooker-Dunham Theater & Gallery (139 Main St., 802/254-9276, www.hookerdunham.org, events $5-20, gallery admission free) enjoy its funky subterranean feel. This venue showcases art-house films, folk and chamber music, and avant-garde theater.
Follow step-by-step instructions from the caller, and you’ll be twirling and swinging along with a crowd at The Brattleboro Dance (118 Elliot St., www.brattcontra.org, 7pm-10pm, $10-12 adults, $8 students), a bi-monthly traditional contra dance with live music and a welcoming set of regulars. Beginners can show up at 6:45pm for a bit of practice, and dancers should bring a pair of clean, soft-soled shoes to change into (though you’ll likely spot some bare feet in the crowd).
Each June the cows take over for the Strolling of the Heifers (www.strollingoftheheifers.org, early June), a parade that celebrates the area’s agrarian history and draws attention to the challenges faced by local farmers. In an opening parade, the pride of the pastures saunter down the street, followed by cow floats and kids in cow costumes. During the day, a Dairy Fest features free ice cream, cheese tastings, and a “celebrity” milking contest. Events recently added to the celebration include a Green Expo showcasing environmentally sustainable products and lifestyles, and a fiercely competitive Grilled Cheese Cook-Off, pitting professional and amateur chefs against each other for the coveted Golden Spatula. For a true taste of country living—and some enthusiastic swings and twirls—don’t miss the evening community contra dance.
With easygoing traffic and loads of scenic country roads, Brattleboro is the perfect place to ditch four wheels for two. If you’ve got your own bike, the Windham Regional Commission creates useful pdf bicycle suitability maps (www.windhamregional.org/bikemap), and 21-speed hybrid bikes are available to rent at Brattleboro Bicycle Shop (165 Main St., 802/254-8644, www.bratbike.com, $25 per day). The friendly staff is happy to suggest rides in the area, which are either flat out-and-backs in the Connecticut River Valley, or hilly climbs into the Green Mountains. As is the case throughout Vermont, some of the finest riding is on unpaved dirt roads, which outnumber the nearby asphalt options three to one, and are an ideal way to escape into quiet country hollows.
Canoes, kayaks, and tubes can be rented from the Vermont Canoe Touring Center (451 Putney Rd., 802/257-5008, www.vermontcanoetouringcenter.com, kayaks from $20, canoes from $25, tubes $20 per day, reservations required) at the intersection of the Connecticut and West Rivers. The stretch of the Connecticut above Vernon Dam is wide and pleasant, with some small islands along the way for paddlers to get out and explore; the West River is smaller but similarly peaceful, though it can also offer some great Class II and III whitewater in the early spring when the snow melts, or on one of a few release dates from the upstream dam each year.
Three short, gentle nature trails leave from the Fort Dummer State Park Campground; the 1-mile Sunrise Trail and the 0.5-mile Sunset Trail loop through the forest, and the 0.5-mile Broad Brook Trail leads from the southern edge of the campground loop to a river swimming hole that’s a pleasantly shady haven on a hot summer day.
Brattleboro’s rolling skyline is dominated by Wantastiquet Mountain, but the trail to the top of the 1,368-foot peak starts in New Hampshire, just across the Connecticut River. To reach the trailhead, take Route 119 across the river from downtown Brattleboro and turn left onto Mountain Road just after the second bridge. The trailhead is 0.9 mile from downtown Brattleboro at a small parking area on the right side of the road. The 1.5 miles of switchbacks earn you sweeping views of the Connecticut valley from the summit, where an exposed granite slab makes an excellent picnic spot.
The Connecticut River looks temptingly cool as it burbles past town, but there are cleaner, more peaceful options a short drive outside of the city limits. Though the river is generally too shallow for swimming, just flopping into a pool at Stickney Brook Falls is a delightful way to spend a hot afternoon. The series of gentle falls is on the left-hand side of Stickney Brook Road; from downtown Brattleboro, drive north on Route 30 and continue 3.7 miles past the I-91 underpass. Turn left on Stickney Brook Road and watch for cars parked along the road.
Stickney Brook is a tributary of the West River, which runs parallel to Route 30 north of Brattleboro. There are excellent swimming holes all along the waterway, notably just under the West Dummerston covered bridge (7.3 miles north of Brattleboro, with a sometimes strong current).
Half an hour west of Brattleboro, the sinuous Harrington Reservoir is pocked with pleasant spots to slip into the water. To reach the reservoir, drive west on Route 9 to the intersection with Route 100 in Wilmington. Access points and swimming beaches are located on the right side of Route 100, several with picnic areas and grills. The reservoir’s most famous swim spot is The Ledges, a pristine, clothing-optional crook in the shoreline that’s back in the buff after losing its nudist privileges in a hotly contested town vote. Thanks to support from groups like AANR—that’s the American Association for Nude Recreation—the vote was eventually overturned.
Downtown Brattleboro has an eclectic mix of shops that invites leisurely browsing, like Boomerang (12 Elliot St., 802/257-6911, www.boomerangvermont.com, 10am-6pm daily), which stocks new, used, and vintage clothing for men and women and many picks with flair.
Books tower from floor to ceiling at Brattleboro Books (36 Elliot St., 802/257-7777, www.brattleborobooks.com, 10am-6pm Mon.-Sat., 11am-5pm Sun.), an independent store with the best selection in town, including many used and out-of-print copies.
You can find one-of-a-kind gifts at Vermont Artisan Designs (106 Main St., 802/257-7044, www.vtart.com, 10am-6pm Mon.-Thurs. and Sat., 10am-8pm Fri., 10am-5pm Sun.), which features pottery, furniture, and other crafts made by artisans from across the state.
The contrast between the thoughtful menus and the offbeat setting—a 1925 Worcester diner car—only heighten the experience at S T. J. Buckley’s Uptown Dining (132 Elliot St., 802/257-4922, www.tjbuckleysuptowndining.com, 5:30pm-9:30pm Thurs.-Sun., open some Wed. summer, $40), a long-standing Brattleboro favorite. There are just eight tables, so chef-owner Michael Fuller gives personal attention to each dish and offers a handful of options nightly. All of them feature bold flavor combinations, such as venison with eggplant caponata, truffle oil, and fresh currants, or the quail with duck leg confit and root vegetables.
Exposed brick and an open kitchen make dining at S duo (136 Main St., 802/251-4141, www.duorestaurants.com, 5pm-9pm Mon.-Thurs., 5pm-10pm Fri., 9am-2pm and 5pm-10pm Sat., 9am-2pm and 5pm-9pm $18-24) a convivial and cozy experience. The fresh, farm-to-table menus bring diverse influences to bear on seasonal ingredients. Recent starters included fried pickled radishes and potted hot pastrami served with remoulade, sauerkraut, and rye. The pork chop is perfectly prepared and arrives alongside cornbread, bacon, and rhubarb chow chow.
With a brightly lit industrial-chic space right in the center of town, Turquoise Grille (128 Main St., 802/254-2327, www.turquoisegrille.com, 11am-3pm and 5pm-9pm Mon.-Sat., 9:30am-3pm Sun., $7-18) beckons on gray afternoons. The menu has global versions of meat on bread, with Turkish flair: kofte and kebabs alongside pulled pork, bratwurst, and burgers.
The unexpectedness of S Three Stones Restaurant (105 Canal St., 802/246-1035, www.3stonesrestaurant.com, 5pm-9pm Wed.-Sun., $12-16) is enchanting. A ramshackle exterior gives way to a warm and vivid interior with a decidedly casual feel. This family-run joint prepares classic foods of the Yucatán Peninsula in southern Mexico, like panuchos, a stuffed, refried tortilla; salbutes, fried maize cakes piled high with meat and vegetables; and cochinita adobado, slow-cooked pork that melts in your mouth. Don’t miss the onzicil, a sauce made from toasted pepitas and tomatoes.
For those who love classic diner fare, but want their ingredients sustainably sourced, the Chelsea Royal Diner (487 Marlboro Rd., 802/254-8399, www.chelsearoyaldiner.com, 5:30am-9pm daily, $5-11) offers the best of both worlds, complete with blue plate specials.
Tucked into a cozy basement nook, Mocha Joe’s Roasting Co. (82 Main St., 802/257-7794, www.mochajoes.com, 7am-8pm Mon.-Thurs., 7am-9pm Fri., 7:30am-9pm Sat., 7:30am-8pm Sun.) roasts coffee sourced from around the world, with direct trade programs in Cameroon and Nicaragua. The café serves pastries and snacks, but the brews are the real focus, and the friendly space may tempt you to while away the morning.
Vegetable lovers who’ve tired of Vermont’s typically meat-heavy menus should head to S Superfresh! Organic Café (30 Main St., 802/579-1751, www.superfreshcafe.com, 10am-4pm Mon.-Wed., 10am-9pm Thurs., 10am-10pm Fri.-Sat., 10am-9pm Sun., $7-14), which fills plates with vibrant salads, filling sandwiches and wraps, and ample gluten-free options. You’ll find plenty of smoothies, vegan “mylks,” and elixirs for what ails you. The laid-back, artsy style is right at home in downtown Brattleboro, attracting a colorful crowd of locals.
The Brattleboro Farmers’ Market (www.brattleborofarmersmarket.com, 9am-2pm Sat. May-Oct., 10am-2pm Tues. June-Oct.) is the best in southern Vermont, with piles of local produce, cheese, and meat from local farms, crafters, and producers. Snap up artisanal kimchi, gelato, and pasta, among many other things. The Saturday market is on Route 9 near the covered bridge; the Tuesday market is at Whetstone pathway, on lower Main Street.
Diminutive and homey, The One Cat (34 Clark St., 802/579-1905, www.theonecatvermont.com, $95-165) is as funky as Brattleboro itself. The two guest rooms—New England and Brighton—are named for the Anglo-American couple’s homes, with respective decorative flourishes, as well as televisions, DVD players, and coffeemakers. The tiny library is full of intriguing books and calls out for intimate wintertime reading. A full English breakfast is served, and a 20 percent discount is available for guests who arrive without cars.
Despite the confusing name—which has led some guests to look for the wrong street address—Forty Putney Road (192 Putney Rd., 800/941-2413, www.fortyputneyroad.com, $100-240) is at 192 Putney Road, and the meticulous bed-and-breakfast couldn’t be cuter. The pristine white house is surrounded by specimen trees and meticulous gardens outside, and filled with serenely decorated rooms evocative of the Provençal and English countryside. A full gourmet breakfast is included.
The lobby at the Latchis Hotel (50 Main St., 802/254-6300, www.latchis.com, $115-190) retains art deco flourishes from its heyday in the 1930s, and for some, it doesn’t get any better than a room at a downtown movie theater. Period details like terrazzo floors and chrome fixtures maintain historical cool; ongoing renovations are sprucing up the down-at-the-heels rooms; and suites with small sitting rooms are available.
Sweet old-fashioned rooms have romantic appeal at the 1868 Crosby House Bed & Breakfast (175 Western Ave., 802/257-7145, www.crosbyhouse.com, $160-199). Three individual rooms have queen-size beds and fireplaces; the largest has a double-whirlpool bath. Fans of dress-up will love the special afternoon tea at which the innkeepers lay out a selection of gloves and hats for guests, along with feathers and other accessories for decorating. The nearby Retreat Trails are perfect for morning walks.
Slow down for a few days on the property that surrounds Scott Farm Orchard (707 Kipling Rd., Dummerston, 802/254-6868, www.scottfarmvermont.com), and you’ll be rewarded with a sublimely peaceful retreat into scattered apple orchards and shady forests. The Landmark Trust USA (www.landmarktrustusa.org) maintains five historic buildings that are destinations worth planning a trip around, especially the exquisite Naulakha (sleeps 8, 3-night minimum stay, $390-450), Rudyard Kipling’s scrupulously maintained home. The property favors historical preservation over modern-day comforts, but the grounds offer sweeping views of the Wantastiquet Range, where Kipling loved to watch Mount Monadnack break the clouds “like a giant thumb-nail pointing heavenwards.” The other on-site rentals include the Kiplings’ charming Carriage House (sleeps 4, 3-night minimum stay, $275), a renovated sugarhouse, and two historical farmhouses. All properties must be booked in advance, and have minimum stay requirements.
A 1908 dam on the Connecticut River flooded Fort Dummer—Vermont’s first permanent European settlement—but the area around it has been preserved as Fort Dummer State Park (517 Old Guilford Rd., 802/254-2610, www.vtstateparks.com/htm/fortdummer.htm, mid-May-Labor Day, campsites and lean-tos $18-27). The 217-acre forest is just south of downtown, with a pleasant mix of oak, beech, and birch trees that shelter wild turkeys and ruffed grouse. The campground’s 50 wooded tent sites are comfortable, if not particularly private, or you can spend the night in one of 10 more-secluded lean-tos. Hot showers and a dump station are available, but no hookups.
The Brattleboro Area Chamber of Commerce (180 Main St., 802/254-4565, www.brattleborochamber.org, 9am-5pm Mon.-Fri.) runs a visitors center downtown.
The area’s premier hospital is Brattleboro Memorial Hospital (17 Belmont Ave., 802/257-0341, www.bmhvt.org). For pharmacy needs, there’s Rite Aid Pharmacy (499 Canal St., 802/257-4204 and Walgreens (476 Canal St., 802/254-5633). For nonmedical emergencies, contact the Brattleboro Police (230 Main St., 802/257-7946).
Banks are found all over the downtown area, particularly on Main Street. ATMs are plentiful around retail stores, in and around hotels, and in convenience stores. Most cafés have wireless Internet. Computers are available for public use at Brooks Memorial Library (224 Main St., 10am-9pm Wed., 10am-6pm Thurs.-Fri., 10am-5pm Sat.).
Just off the north-south I-91, Brattleboro is the eastern edge of Vermont’s east-west Route 9, a scenic, two-lane highway that’s known as the Molly Stark Byway, named for the wife of a Revolutionary-era general. Brattleboro is also on both of Vermont’s Amtrak lines, the Ethan Allen Express from New York City, and The Vermonter, which travels from Washington DC (800/872-7245, www.amtrak.com, from NYC 5.5 hrs., from $65; from DC 8.75 hrs., from $135), and which now allow bicycles. Greyhound Bus (800/231-2222, www.greyhound.com) links Brattleboro with cities around the region, and taxi service is available from Brattleboro Taxi (802/254-6446, www.brattleborotaxi.com).
Metered parking is available all over downtown Brattleboro, and the town’s small downtown is compact and easy to navigate. Three city bus lines connect at the Flat Street Transportation Center in downtown; rides within town are $1, buses operate Monday-Saturday, and a service map is available at www.crtransit.org.
With a bit of starch and a lot of history, this picture-book village is among the prettiest in New England. Rolling hills and farms are the perfect backdrop for Woodstock’s covered bridges, elegant homes, and tiny town center. That “country gentleman” feel is no accident—this part of Vermont was a rural escape for some of the 19th century’s most affluent U.S. families, and names like Rockefeller, Billings, and Marsh continue to define today’s landscape of historic inns, parks, and farms.
In part due to its carefully maintained past, Woodstock attracts transplants from urban areas around the East. This blend of new and old lends an unusual vitality to the small town, where upscale restaurants, art galleries, and boutiques cheerfully coexist with farm stores and a quirky “town crier,” a community blackboard listing contra dances and church suppers.
Just outside of Woodstock are a pair of appealing villages that are ideal for afternoon excursions. To the east, little Quechee has a renowned glassblowing studio and a deep, glacier-carved gorge. Southwest of Woodstock is the idyllic valley of Plymouth Notch, where the future President Coolidge was raised on the family farm—the creamery his father founded in 1890 makes award-winning cheese to this day.
One of Woodstock’s most successful native sons was Frederick Billings, who made his money as a San Francisco lawyer in the heat of the gold rush. In the 1870s, he returned to Woodstock and bought the old Charles Marsh Farm, which he transformed into a model dairy farm complete with imported Jersey cows. Today visitors to the grounds of the Billings Farm & Museum (53 Elm St., 802/457-2355, www.billingsfarm.org, 10am-5pm daily Apr.-Oct., 10am-4pm Sat.-Sun. Nov.-Feb., $15 adults, $14 seniors, $8 children 5-15, $4 children 3-4, children under 3 free) can tour the property in wagons drawn by Percheron draft horses, meet the well-groomed herd of milking cows, and churn fresh cream into butter. The farm produces two varieties of cheddar from a herd of all Jersey cows: full-flavored and creamy sweet cheddar and butter cheddar, which is slightly salty with a rich, melting texture.
Woodstock countryside
Next door, Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller National Historical Park (54 Elm St., 802/457-3368, www.nps.gov/mabi, 10am-5pm daily Memorial Day-Oct., $8 adults, $4 seniors, children 15 and under free) frames the mansion built by natural philosopher Charles Marsh 1805-1807 and bought by Billings in 1861. The mansion, open for tours by advance reservation, has a Tiffany stained-glass window and an extensive collection of American landscape paintings. In 1934, Billings’s granddaughter married Laurance Rockefeller, and they donated the land to the National Park Service in 1992. The main visitors center is the former Carriage Barn, which houses a permanent exhibit about conservation history, a reading library, and a bookstore. Combination tickets ($20 adults, $15 seniors) include two-day admission to both Billings Farm and Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller National Historical Park.
Cows and other farm animals can be found at Sugarbush Farm (591 Sugarbush Farm Rd., 802/457-1757, www.sugarbushfarm.com, 8am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-5pm Sat.-Sun. and holidays), which produces excellent cheddar cheese and keeps its maple sugar shack open all year (though syrup is generally made between February and April). To get here, take a right across the covered bridge at the small village of Taftsville and follow the signs to the farm. Call ahead for road conditions in winter and early spring.
For a glimpse into Woodstock’s nonagricultural past, visit the Dana–Thomas House Museum (26 Elm St., 802/457-1822, www.woodstockhistorical.org, 1pm-5pm Wed.-Sat., 11am-4pm Sun. June-mid-Oct., free), a federal-style home once owned by a prosperous local dry goods merchant. Now a museum run by the Woodstock Historical Society, it contains period rooms full of fine china, antique furniture, kitchen instruments, and children’s toys.
It’s easy to visit the town’s vibrant art galleries on foot, as they’re in a compact cluster at the center of town, on Elm and Center Streets. Start on Elm at Artemis Global Art (23 Elm St., 802/234-8900, www.artemisglobalart.com, 11am-5pm daily), an airy, light-filled space that displays the work of Dutch painter Ton Schulten and a handful of other abstract artists.
Walk in the direction of the town green to reach The Woodstock Gallery (6 Elm St., 802/457-2012, www.woodstockgalleryvt.com, 10am-5pm Mon.-Sat., noon-4:30pm Sun.), where the imagery is closer to home. Fine and folk artists offer their takes on the New England landscape and other themes, and the gallery stocks a good selection of work by Sabra Field, a beloved Vermont artist who captures the spirit of the state with striking woodblock prints.
Turn left on Center Street for a short stroll to Collective—the Art of Craft (46 Central St., 802/457-1298, www.collective-theartofcraft.com, 10am-5pm Mon.-Sat., 11am-4pm Sun.), where a small group of local artists and artisans display their work in an old stone mill. Handwoven fabrics, blown glass, pottery, woodwork, and metalwork are of a remarkably high quality.
Make a U-turn and head back up the street to Gallery on the Green (1 The Green, 802/457-4956, www.galleryonthegreen.com, 10am-6pm Mon.-Sat., 10am-4pm Sun.), which has an extensive collection of sweetly pastoral paintings by Chip Evans, as well as other fine examples of the New England “red barns and Holsteins” genre.
Back before there was a craft brewery in almost every village, there was Long Trail Brewing Company (5520 Rte. 4, Bridgewater Corners, 802/672-5011, www.longtrail.com, 10am-7pm daily), 15 minutes west of Woodstock. Long Trail started filling kegs in 1989, and its flagship amber ale is now ubiquitous in Vermont. If that’s the only Long Trail brew you’ve tried, you’ll be astounded by the selection at the brewery, which keeps around 13 beers on tap. Standouts include the barrel-aged Triple Bag, but the bartenders are through-and-through beer geeks who can guide your selection. The brewery also has a menu of pub food served 11am-7pm, featuring wings, burgers, and other beer-friendly meals. A raised walkway overlooks the bottling and brewing facility, giving you a fascinating bird’s-eye view of the action.
One of the best presidential historic sites in the country, the President Calvin Coolidge State Historic Site (3780 Rte. 100A, 802/672-3773, www.historicsites.vermont.gov/directory/coolidge, 9:30am-5pm daily late May-mid-Oct., $9 adults, $2 children 6-14, children under 6 free, $25 family pass) is situated on the grounds of the 30th president’s boyhood home, a sprawling collection of houses, barns, and factories in a mountain-ringed valley. The exhibits inside give a rare intimate look into the upbringing of the president known as Silent Cal for his lack of emotion, but who restored the dignity of the office during a time of widespread scandal. The family parlor preserves the spot where Coolidge was sworn into office—by his father, a notary public. Even in 1924, when Coolidge ran for reelection, the homestead swearing-in must have seemed like a scene from a simple, earlier time—one radio campaign ad described it in heavily nostalgic terms, pitching Cal as a rustic counterpoint to Washington DC’s modernity and urban sophistication.
Nearby Plymouth Artisan Cheese (106 Messer Hill Rd., 802/672-3650, www.plymouthartisancheese.com, 10am-5pm daily) was founded in 1890 by John Coolidge, Calvin Coolidge’s father. Its granular curd cheeses were once relatively common in the United States, but are now rare. Learn about the cheese-making process at the on-site museum, then sample everything from squeaky-fresh cheese curds to granular aged cheeses that have been hand-dipped in wax.
The mission of the Vermont Institute of Natural Science (VINS, Rte. 4 just west of Quechee Gorge, 802/359-5000, www.vinsweb.org, 10am-5pm daily mid-Apr.-Oct., 10am-4pm daily Nov.-mid-Apr., $15 adults, $14 seniors, $13 children 4-17, children 3 and under free) is to rescue and rehabilitate birds of prey, including hawks, owls, and eagles, and display them for the education of visitors. Watching the raptors watch you is an unforgettable experience; the birds are released when fully healed, but a recent visit included a great horned owl, merlin falcons, and other fiercely captivating creatures.
Try to time your visit with one of the raptor educational programs, held at 11am, or their feeding time at 2:45pm. VINS puts on other educational programs throughout the day, and also has an hour-long interpretive nature trail that winds through the forested property.
Even if you’re not in the market for the high-end glassware, Simon Pearce (1760 Main St., the Mill at Quechee, 802/295-2711, www.simonpearce.com, 10am-9pm daily) is a fascinating stop that’s seven miles east of Woodstock in the village of Quechee. Located in an old mill building run entirely by hydroelectric power, the studio is open to the public, who can watch glassblowers blow bubbles into glowing orange balls of 2,400-degree silica. It’s an extraordinary sight, especially the way multiple craftspeople coordinate individual components of a delicate wineglass, with precise timing and handiwork. If they slip up, of course, that’s one more glass for the shelf of perfect-seeming “seconds” that are available for purchase at somewhat lower prices.
Each year toward the end of sugaring season (late Mar.-early Apr.), many of Vermont’s sugarhouses open their doors for the Maple Open House Weekend (www.vermontmaple.org/events), which is an excellent chance to rub shoulders with sugarmakers and sample the state’s sweetest treats, like sugar on snow (often served with a pickle, which is better than it sounds).
Billings Farm & Museum sponsors many special events throughout the summer, including Cow Appreciation Day every July, which includes a judging of the Jerseys, ice cream and butter making, and (always gripping) dairy trivia, as well as a Harvest celebration in October with husking competitions and cider pressing. In late July, Woodstock gets wordy during Bookstock (www.bookstockvt.org), a festival that attracts an intriguing lineup of writers. While the town maintains an events page, the best resource is kept up by the helpful owner of Sleep Woodstock Motel (www.sleepwoodstock.com/upcoming-events).
Handmade pottery with a gorgeously modern aesthetic is the main draw at Farmhouse Pottery (1837 Rte. 4, 802/774-8373, www.farmhousepottery.com, 10am-5pm Mon.-Sat., 10am-4pm Sun.), where you can watch the artisans at work. The store also stocks maple rolling pins, candles, and a seemingly endless array of beautiful things. Not your average vintage store, Who Is Sylvia? (26 Central St., 802/457-1110, 11am-5pm Sun.-Mon. and Thurs., 11am-6pm Fri.-Sat.) stocks flapper dresses, pillbox hats, brocade jackets, and other hard-to-find items dating back more than a century.
Six miles west of Woodstock on Route 4, Bridgewater Mill Mall is filled with studio space for artisans and craftspeople. A highlight is Shackleton Thomas (102 Mill Rd., Bridgewater, 802/672-5175, www.shackletonthomas.com, 10am-5pm Tues.-Sat., 11am-4pm Sun.), where Charles Shackleton—a distant relation of Antarctic explorer Ernest Shackleton—crafts simple but elegant Shaker and modern-style furniture. It’s fascinating to watch the woodcarvers, who train for years, and the display room is also stocked with eclectic gifts with unusual charm.
In addition to the exhibits at Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller National Historical Park (54 Elm St., 802/457-3368, www.nps.gov/mabi, 10am-5pm daily Memorial Day-Oct., $8 adults, $4 seniors, children 15 and under free), the preserve has 20 miles of walking trails, which are accessible from the park entrance on Route 12 and a parking lot on Prosper Road. The roads circle around the slopes of Mount Tom, which is forested with old-growth hemlock, beech, and sugar maples. Popular hikes include the 0.7-mile loop around the mountain pond called The Pogue and the gentle, 1-mile climb up to the South Summit of Mount Tom, which lords over Woodstock and the river below. No mountain bikes are allowed on the trails; in the winter, they are groomed for cross-country skiing.
It’s also possible to walk 2.75 miles round-trip to the summit of Mount Tom, starting at the centrally located Middle Covered Bridge on Mountain Avenue. Cross the bridge and follow Mountain Avenue as it curves around to the left along a rock wall. An opening in the rock wall leads to the Faulkner Trail at Faulkner Park, where it begins to switchback up the gentle south flank of the peak. The last 300 feet of the trail get a bit steeper, giving wide views of the Green Mountains. Allow an hour for the hike.
Seven miles east of Woodstock, Quechee State Park (5800 Woodstock Rd., Hartford, 802/295-2990, www.vtstateparks.com/htm/quechee.htm, May 20-Oct. 16, free) has a pleasant 2.2-mile round-trip trail into Vermont’s deepest gorge, which was carved by retreating glaciers. While the park’s self-nomination as “Vermont’s Little Grand Canyon” might set visitors up for a disappointment, the walk is lovely. The Quechee Gorge Trail hike takes about an hour and starts from the visitors center.
There’s an actual swimming pool inside the Woodstock Recreation Department (54 River St., 802/457-1502, www.woodstockrec.com, 6am-8pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-2pm Sat., 9am-1pm Sun.), but the real treat is a dip in the Ottauquechee River. There’s a short path that leaves from right behind the Rec Department, descending to a gentle swimming area that’s suitable for families. On the very hottest days, the finest place to swim is in the Quechee Gorge, where the water seems to stay cool through the heat of the summer. To reach the best swimming area, take the trail from the visitors center, turn left (downstream) as the Quechee Gorge Trail turns upstream, then follow the river for roughly 0.5 mile to a broad swimming hole.
Dining on mostly fried, salty fare at a “snack bar” is a quintessential summer experience in Vermont, and White Cottage (863 Woodstock Rd., 802/457-3455, 11am-10pm daily May-Oct., $3-22, cash only) is a fine place to get your fix. Golden mounds of fried clams come with tartar sauce and lemon, maple creemees are piled high on sugar cones, and hamburgers are simple and to-the-point. Snack bar food doesn’t vary much from place to place, but White Cottage’s outdoor tables, riverside location, and friendly staff make it a favorite—and you can wade in the river while you wait for your order.
Pick up supplies at the confusingly named Woodstock Farmers’ Market (979 W. Woodstock Rd., 802/457-3658, www.woodstockfarmersmarket.com, 7:30am-7pm Tues.-Sat., 8am-6pm Sun.), which turns out to be a specialty food shop that stocks plenty of locally made treats, cheese, beer, wine, and everything else you might need for a showstopping picnic on the road.
Along with excellent espresso, Mon Vert Cafe (28 Central St., 802/457-7143, www.monvertcafe.com, 7:30am-4pm Mon.-Sat., 8am-4pm Sun., $8-11) has fresh breakfast and lunch in a sunny and stylish spot. Breakfast burritos and baked goods give way to a lunch menu of sandwiches and panini. The café also prepares food to go, which makes for great road tripping supplies.
Sedate and sophisticated, The Prince & The Pauper (24 Elm St., 802/457-1818, www.princeandpauper.com, 5:30pm-8:30pm Sun.-Thurs., 5:30pm-9pm Fri.-Sat., $18-25) serves fine dining classics—don’t miss the restaurant’s signature carré d’agneau royale, a tender dish of lamb, spinach, and mushrooms wrapped in puff pastry—in a candlelit country setting. Think high-backed wooden booths, exposed beams, and local art for sale on the wall. It’s an ideal date setting, though families and groups are also welcome.
If you’ve had enough of Woodstock’s white tablecloth scene, you may be ready for a meal at the relaxed and convivial S Worthy Kitchen (442 E. Woodstock Rd., 802/457-7281, www.worthyvermont.com, 4pm-9pm Mon.-Thurs., 4pm-10pm Fri., 11:30am-10pm Sat., 11:30am-9pm Sun., $8-15), a “farm diner” that has a hearty selection of pub food with flair, from fried chicken to poutine. Burritos, nachos, and burgers are other favorites, and there’s an excellent beer selection.
Woodstock has some of the most appealing accommodations in the state. Prices tend to be higher than elsewhere and rise dramatically during peak foliage season, while off-season prices may be significantly lower than those listed.
There’s nothing fancy about Sleep Woodstock Motel (4324 W. Woodstock Rd., 802/332-6336, www.sleepwoodstock.com, $88-178, 2-bedroom suite $250-450), but a 2017 renovation has revitalized the property. The roadside motel was built in 1959, and rooms retain a retro feel, but bathrooms are new and everything feels fresh and sunny. The motel is a short drive west of the center.
Elegant, well-appointed rooms at the S Jackson House Inn (43 Senior Ln., 802/457-2065, www.jacksonhouse.com, $189-339) manage to avoid fussiness. Quarters in the main house are somewhat more in keeping with the old-fashioned style of the place, but new additions come with perks like massage tubs. Each one is different, so peek into a few before making your choice. The crackling fire is an appealing place to thaw, but in summer months the broad porch entices. The congenial owners, Rick and Kathy, are devoted to local food, and Rick prepares sumptuous breakfasts with ingredients from area farms.
The 506 on the River Inn (1653 Rte. 4, 802/457-5000, www.ontheriverwoodstock.com, $139-379) was renovated in 2014 and has an appealingly chic take on Woodstock’s genteel country style. Throw pillows are emblazoned with folksy Vermont expressions, antiques are used with restraint, and welcome extras include a game room, library, and toddler playroom. Breakfast is well prepared and lavish, served in a dining room and bar that open to the public at night. The inn’s bistro menu covers classed-up pub food and child-friendly diner standbys like mac and cheese.
You can’t miss the grand S Woodstock Inn & Resort (14 The Green, 802/457-1100 or 800/448-7900, www.woodstockinn.com, $235-820), which dominates the green in the heart of the village. The rooms and facilities are some of the prettiest in Vermont, full of thoughtful touches and design. This location has been a tourist destination since a tavern with accommodations was established in 1793, but Laurance Rockefeller built the current structure in the 1970s. There are seemingly endless facilities: spa, fitness center, cruiser bikes for exploring the town, organic gardens, and a celebrated 18-hole golf course. You can come take courses on farming and falconry, or just watch the weather from the glassed-in conservatory.
The exquisite and extravagant Twin Farms (452 Royalton Turnpike, Barnard, 800/894-6327, www.twinfarms.com, $1,450-2,800) is the former home of journalist Dorothy Thompson and Nobel laureate Sinclair Lewis, who was known for his stirring critiques of capitalism and materialism. Even he might be tempted by this alluring and romantic resort, where the rooms are kitted out with four-poster beds, fireplaces, whirlpool tubs, rare woods, and museum art, with views over a breathtaking property. Twin Farms is all-inclusive and offers an impressive suite of activities, along with remarkable food and drink.
Quechee State Park (5800 Woodstock Rd., Hartford, 802/295-2990, www.vtstateparks.com/htm/quechee.htm, mid-May-mid-Oct.) has some excellent spots for river swimming near a bustling, friendly campground, with lean-tos and 45 RV and tent sites along a forested loop (tents $18-24, lean-tos $25-29). There is a dump station, but no hookups; fully powered sites in this area are limited, and the closest option is 2.6 miles farther east, at the Quechee/Pine Valley KOA (3700 E. Woodstock Rd., White River Junction, May 1-Oct. 15, tents $28-36, RVs $45-70).
The Woodstock Area Chamber of Commerce (888/469-6378, www.woodstockvt.com) runs a welcome center (3 Mechanic St., 802/432-1100, 9am-5pm daily) and an information booth (on the green). The well-stocked, independent Woodstock Pharmacy (19 Central St., 802/457-1306) is conveniently located in the center of town, as are the ATM machines at People’s United Bank (2 The Green, 802/457-2660) and Citizens Bank (431 Woodstock Rd., 802/457-3666,). In an emergency, contact the Woodstock Police (454 Rte. 4, 802/457-1420).
Route 4 runs straight through the heart of Woodstock, which is easily walkable once you arrive. There’s Amtrak service to White River Junction, 15 miles to the east of Woodstock (800/872-7245, www.amtrak.com), and it’s possible to continue to Woodstock on Vermont Translines (844/888-7267, www.vttranslines.com), which has daily service from White River Junction to Woodstock, Killington, and Rutland.
Parking in the village is metered 10am-4pm Monday-Saturday, but it’s often possible to find free parking on the west side of town. Woodstock also has an unusual parking validation policy—if you get a ticket in a metered spot, you can bring it to any merchant or restaurant, who can validate it (cancel it) for free.
Following the Ottauquechee River through the southern Green Mountains, Route 4 rolls right to the foot of the imposing Killington Peak. It’s been a ski resort since 1958, and was ambitious from the first chair—Killington strung lift after lift on the neighboring peaks and became one of the first mountains to install snowmaking equipment. (It’s still known as the first resort to open and last to close each year, though springtime skiing may require dodging patches of grass.)
The mountain’s very size and popularity led to some unattractive development on its flank—and the long, twisting Killington Road is now a very un-Vermont stretch of hotels, restaurants, and nightclubs extending up to the summit. Locals may roll their eyes, but for some it’s a welcome bit of civilization and fun in the middle of the woods.
The mountain can get crowded on big winter weekends, though Killington’s scale offers notable advantages: varied terrain, 3,000 feet of vertical drop, and its unique “good snow guarantee.” If you don’t like the conditions, you can return your lift ticket. In recent years, Killington has added a popular downhill mountain biking area, with lift service and Vermont’s most challenging terrain.
The mountain that gives Killington its name is only one of six peaks that make up Killington Resort (4763 Killington Rd., 800/621-6867, www.killington.com, $105 adults, $89 seniors, $81 youth 7-18, children under 7 and seniors over 80 ski free), a massive ski resort that boasts more than 200 trails. But the main event is still Killington Peak, where most of the toughest trails start their descent. The peak is accessible from the express gondola from the K-1 Lodge at the top of Killington Road.
Killington Resort
Ten minutes west of Killington, the co-owned Pico Mountain (Rte. 4, 2 miles west of Killington Rd., 866/667-7426, www.picomountain.com, $76 adults, $59 seniors, $65 youth 7-18, children under 7 and seniors over 80 ski free) is a quieter and less crowded mountain, with 50-some trails and a family-friendly reputation. Pico is closed Tuesday-Wednesday outside of peak skiing weeks.
As might be expected, skiing is not the only way to hit the hill. Killington Snowmobile Tours (802/422-2121, www.snowmobilevermont.com) offers one-hour gentle rides along groomed ski trails ($99 single/$139 double), as well as a more challenging 25-mile, two-hour backcountry ride through Calvin Coolidge State Forest ($154/$199).
Both skate and classic skiers will love the gentle terrain at Mountain Meadows Cross Country Ski and Snowshoe Center (Rte. 4 at Rte. 100, 802/775-7077, www.xcskiing.net, $19 adults, $16 seniors, $8 youth, children under 6 free), where you can rent skis and snowshoes.
In the summer months, Killington has mountain biking on trails served by the K-1 Express Gondola and the Snowshed Express Quad, which ranges from relatively approachable beginner trails to serious and challenging downhilling. A full day of lift and trail access is $55 for adults, or you can sweat your way up the hill and ride the trails for $20. The resort also rents protective gear and full-suspension bikes.
For 50 years, the classic Killington spot has been the Wobbly Barn (2229 Killington Rd., 802/422-6171, www.wobblybarn.com, 8pm-2am daily Nov.-Apr., $20 cover for events), where there’s a consistently boisterous crowd watching live music and dancing.
Toward the bottom of the access road, JAX Food & Games (1667 Killington Rd., 802/422-5334, www.supportinglocalmusic.com, 3pm-2am daily) is a fun venue with plenty of live music and a game room containing air hockey, arcade games, and pool. The Pickle Barrel Night Club (1741 Killington Rd., 802/422-3035, www.picklebarrelnightclub.com, 8pm-2am Thurs.-Sun. Oct.-Apr., $20 cover for events) has three levels of dancing space, each with its own bar and loud music that tends to attract a young party crowd.
Most months feature at least one or two festivals at Killington, so check the resort’s Events Calendar (www.killington.com). Every summer, the Killington Music Festival (802/773-4003, www.killingtonmusicfestival.org) stages a series of classical music events called Music in the Mountains, with musicians from around the country. The weekend before Labor Day, a thousand motorcyclists invade town for the Killington Classic Motorcycle Rally (518/798-7888, www.killingtonclassic.com). Events include a cycle rodeo and bike judging.
The Killington Foliage Weekend and Brewfest Weekend (802/422-6237, www.killington.com) overlap in the town center and on the local slopes every year, getting under way in late September and early October. Family activities, from hayrides to gondola tours, are a highlight, as are the handcrafted beers served.
In addition to the hiking trails at Killington, a popular short trek is the one up to the scenic overlook on Deer Leap Mountain, located in Gifford Woods State Park (34 Gifford Woods Rd., 802/775-5354, www.vtstateparks.com). The trail starts behind the Inn at Long Trail on Route 4 and is two miles round-trip to fantastic views of Pico Peak and Killington Mountain.
To summit the main attraction, trek the Bucklin Trail to the top of Killington Peak. The 7.2-mile out-and-back starts from the Bucklin Trailhead (20 Wheelerville Rd., Mendon) and follows a west-facing ridgeline for 3.3 miles before intersecting with the Long Trail. A 0.2-mile spur from the Long Trail leads to the rocky, exposed peak, where you can see all the way to Mount Mansfield on a clear day.
The Appalachian Trail runs right past Kent Pond (access on Thundering Brook Rd., off Rte. 4), but you don’t have to be a “thru-hiker” to enjoy the scenic swimming spot. The pond is ringed by low mountains and stocked with both brook and rainbow trout.
Each of the resorts have ski shops with everything you need for a day in the snow, but one of the best off-mountain stores is Northern Ski Works (2089 Killington Rd., next to the Wobbly Barn, 802/422-9675, www.northernski.com, 8am-8pm Mon.-Thurs., 8am-11pm Fri., 7:30am-9pm Sat., 7:30am-8pm Sun. Oct.-Apr.). It’s where to head for all manner of equipment, from snowshoes and helmets to boards and, of course, skis.
For classic American fare done with flair, The Foundry at Summit Pond (63 Summit Path, 802/422-5335, www.foundrykillington.com, 3pm-10pm Mon.-Thurs., 11:30am-11pm Fri.-Sat., 11am-10pm Sun., $18-50) is a popular spot. Its steaks are superlative, there’s an appealing raw bar, and the apple pie is a delight. The Tavern bar menu includes a more relaxed selection of sandwiches. Don’t miss the ice-skating pond, just beside the restaurant.
You won’t miss Liquid Art (37 Miller Brook Rd., 802/422-2787, www.liquidartvt.com, mid Nov.-May 8am-9pm Mon.-Tue., 8am-10pm Wed.-Fri., 7am-10pm Sat., 7am-9pm Sun.; hours vary in off-season, $4-10) in an eye-catching blue building beside Killington Road. It always opens an hour before the lifts and has a hearty breakfast menu and locally roasted coffee. The menu is available all day, and the sandwiches and light fare include the most plentiful vegetarian options in town.
With a cozy feel and a popular bar, The Garlic (1724 Killington Rd., 802/422-5055, www.thegarlicvermont.net, 5pm-10pm Mon.-Fri., 4pm-10pm Sat.-Sun., $10-30) serves Italian classics like osso buco and pasta puttanesca that are perfect for a post-ski meal. It’s cozy, dim, and the closest that Killington’s eateries get to subdued.
The cheerful early birds at Sunup Bakery (2250 Killington Rd., 802/422-3865, www.sunupbakery.com, 7am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 6:30am-5pm Sat.-Sun. Nov.-Apr., 7am-3pm Fri.-Sun. May-June, 7am-3pm Thurs.-Mon. July-Oct., $3-8) will get you adventure-ready with a carb-loaded lineup of pastries (seriously, try the espresso bread pudding muffin), soups, and sandwiches of every stripe. The café uses plenty of local ingredients and is housed in a perky chalet on the main road.
The rooms at the Killington Motel (1946 Rte. 4, 800/366-0493, www.killingtonmotel.com, $119-240) are clean and comfortable, and the owners, Robin and Steve, are friendly enough to inspire a loyal following who return year after year. The place has an unself-consciously retro vibe, and is one of the best places for value in the area. Steve roasts coffee beans on-site, and wintertime rates include an appealing breakfast.
Several generations of Saint Bernards have greeted guests at the Summit Lodge (200 Summit Rd., off Killington Rd., 800/635-6343, www.summitlodgevermont.com, $99-219), which is as famous for its canine companions as it is for its congenial staff. Even though the lodge is only a few minutes away from Killington Resort, its position at the top of a steep hill makes it feel secluded. Rooms are nothing fancy but are quiet and clean, with friendly service. A pool and reading room offer extra relaxation.
Twenty minutes away from the ski lifts, the Red Clover Inn (7 Woodward Rd., Mendon, 802/775-2290, www.redcloverinn.com, $199-340) feels a world away from Killington’s bustling scene. Set on a rambling property that once housed a goat farm, the guest rooms retain a country charm and quiet that’s enhanced by the lack of in-room televisions. The inn’s restaurant and diminutive bar are enough to keep you in for the evening, with local beers, cocktails, and a well-crafted menu that makes the dining room a destination.
If you book a slope-side room at the Killington Grand Resort Hotel (228 E. Mountain Rd., 802/422-5001, www.killington.com, $350 and up), you can spend your evening watching the grooming machines crawl up and down the mountain like glowworms. The comfortable rooms include access to the excellent health club, and there’s a spa and restaurant on-site.
Gifford Woods State Park (34 Gifford Woods Rd., 802/775-5354, www.vtstateparks.com) has 4 cabins, 22 tent sites, and 20 lean-tos for overnights (campsites $18-29, cabins $48-50). The northern tent loop is much more secluded than the southern one. Several “prime” lean-tos are especially secluded in one of Vermont’s only old-growth hardwood forests, made up of giant sugar maple, white ash, and beech trees.
The Killington Chamber of Commerce (2026 Rte. 4, 802/773-4181, 9am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 10am-5pm Sat.-Sun. June-Nov., 9am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 10am-2pm Sat.-Sun. Dec.-May, www.killingtonchamber.com) operates a visitors information center at the intersection of Route 4 and Killington Road. Near the same intersection is a branch of Lake Sunapee Bank (1995 Rte. 4, 802/773-2581). Additional ATM machines are available at Merchants Bank (286 Rte. 7 S., Rutland, 802/747-5000, 9am-5pm Mon.-Thurs., 9am-6pm Fri.) as well as at Killington Resort’s base lodge. For condos and hotel reservations, you can also try the helpful Killington Resort’s Central Reservations (800/621-6867), which is especially useful for large groups.
Killington is the high point of Route 4, and towers over the intersection with Route 100. For such a popular destination, public transport options are limited. It’s possible to schedule pickup service with Killington Transportation (802/770-3977) from Rutland or White River Junction. Within Killington, the resort offers shuttle bus service between the various base lodges and nearby lodging. Ski buses depart for Killington from Boston (508/340-1034, www.newenglandsnowbus.com, $50-89) and New York City (www.ovrride.com, from $129), which can be a great deal as a transport/lift tickets/lodging package.
The peaks that flank the Mad River Valley seem to protect it from passing time. A blend of pastoral beauty and culture have made it a haven for artists, farmers, and eccentrics, while the valley’s two ski resorts have grown into serious skiing destinations.
It’s a compact place—just 30 minutes from one end to the other—and nowhere else in Vermont can you find such iconic, varied scenery and activities so close together. Incredible skiing, vibrant agriculture, forested hikes to waterfalls, and impeccable food and drink make this spirited region a perfect distillation of the state.
Not a shingle is out of place in Warren’s achingly cute center, whose general store, artists’ studios, and single elegant inn look more like a movie set than a real town. But this rural community is also home to Sugarbush resort, a sprawling cluster of six peaks with 53 miles of trails, not to mention an additional 2,000 acres of wild backcountry.
And while Warren might seem a bit prim at first glance, there’s serious verve behind the colonial facade. Immerse yourself in it during Warren’s justifiably famous Fourth of July parade, an unrestrained celebration that is among the most independent of Vermont’s Independence Day events. Locals spend the year constructing complicated floats with themes that range from politics to all-purpose Vermont pride, and accompany them through town in sundry dress (and undress).
There are no banks or ATMs in the tiny Warren center. The closest one is at the gas station two miles north of town: Mac’s Market (114 Route 100, Warren, 802/496-3366, 9am-6pm daily).
Warren has its own covered bridge, the 55-foot-long Warren Bridge, which sports an unusual asymmetrical design. (The angles on the eastern and western sides are slightly different.) The bridge is off Route 100, just below downtown.
Warren’s Fourth of July parade is an unorthodox event that always seems more about the independence of small-town Vermont than the United States. Eye-catching floats and costumes often have a political theme that set this parade apart from simple flag waving, but it’s also a welcoming and thoroughly entertaining glimpse of life in the Mad River Valley. The parade starts at 10am on Main Street, and festivities wrap up by 8:30pm. Fireworks are held at Sugarbush resort in the evening. The parade is free to attend, but a $1 donation is requested at the entrance to the town; in return, you’ll receive a numbered “buddy badge.” There’s two of every number, and the badges are given out randomly. If you find your matching pair, the two of you can head to the village gazebo to collect a prize. Parking can be a challenge, but a free shuttle bus is available (www.madrivervalley.com/4th).
Once known as Mascara Mountain for its tendency to draw the jet-setting crowd, Sugarbush (1840 Sugarbush Access Rd., 802/583-6300 or 800/537-8427, www.sugarbush.com, $84-91 adults, $65-71 seniors and youth 7-18, children under 7 free) has come a long way to rightly earn its place as Vermont’s “Second Slope,” often favorably described as a more welcoming “alternative” to Killington. It’s second to Killington in the number and difficulty of the slopes it offers. Sugarbush boasts 111 trails descending from two summits, Lincoln Peak and Mount Ellen. But it may have the most difficult trail in the East: the rock-and-glade ride known as the Rumble. Sugarbush is also prized for the high amount of natural snow it gets each year, as storms from Lake Champlain unload their cargo after passing over the mountains. Not that it needs it—the Bush has one of the most sophisticated snowmaking systems around. As a bonus, Sugarbush and Mad River Glen have worked out lift packages that include both mountains—so you can experience big-mountain skiing on Sugarbush then head up-valley to ride Mad River Glen’s gnarly glades.
In the shadow of Sugarbush and the surrounding mountains, Ole’s Cross Country Center (Airport Rd., 802/496-3430, www.olesxc.com, $18 adults, $15 youth and seniors) has 30 miles of trails through deep woods and farm country. Another great spot for forested skiing is Blueberry Lake Cross Country and Snowshoeing Center (Plunkton Rd., 802/496-6687, www.blueberrylakeskivt.com, $14), with 19 miles of trails. Both ski areas have rentals and lessons and are groomed for both Nordic and skate skiing.
With crystal clear pools and a natural rock slide, Warren Falls is one of the best swimming holes in the state, though it can be very crowded on summer weekends. To get there, travel south on Route 100 from Warren; the parking area is 0.75 mile south of the intersection of Warren’s Main Street and Route 100. A short path leads to the falls. A few miles farther south in Granville (population 309), Moss Glen Falls is another scenic spot (without swimming, however). A multi-pitched cataract that drops 125 feet through a narrow gorge, the waterfall is just as beautiful frozen in winter as it is gushing in summer. A viewing platform is accessible from the highway. The falls themselves are part of the Granville Gulf State Reservation, a seven-mile stretch of pathless wilderness that is among the most scenic drives in the Green Mountains. Keep an eye out for the moose that frequent the area’s streams and beaver ponds.
For food, provisions, and local gossip, everyone heads to The Warren Store (284 Main St., 802/496-3864, www.warrenstore.com, 8am-7pm Mon.-Sat., 8am-6pm Sun.). Spend a few days here, and you’ll be on a first-name basis with the friendly staff at this eclectic provisions shop, full of Vermont-made odds and ends (from pillows to salad bowls). The shop has a nice selection of unusual wines for sale and churns out excellent, creative sandwiches from the deli—all with bread baked on-site.
Warren has appealing—but limited—dining options. Breakfast means a trip into Waitsfield or pastries at The Warren Store.
The elegant and refined 275 Main at The Pitcher Inn (275 Main St., 802/496-6350, www.pitcherinn.com, 6pm-9pm Wed.-Mon., $26-36) boasts a superlative and hefty international wine list, and a menu to match. Global in its influences but local in most of its ingredients, the kitchen emphasizes organic seasonal produce and fresh game such as grilled Vermont-raised lamb. For a particularly memorable experience, reserve a private dinner for two in the restaurant’s wine cellar.
An unlikely morsel of Paris in a mountain setting, Chez Henri (80 Sugarbush Village Dr., 802/583-2600, www.chezhenrisugarbush.com, 11:30am-11pm Mon.-Fri., 4:30pm-11pm Sat.-Sun., $19-43) makes dining a transporting experience. Classic bistro meals like canard aux fruits and onion soup gratinée are served in an intimate setting warmed by an open fire.
Snag thin-crust pizzas with all the fixings at Pizza Soul (Sugarbush Village, 802/496-6202, www.pizzasoul.com, 11:30am-8:30pm Sun. and Tues., 11:30am-4pm Wed., 11:30am-8:30pm, Thu., 11:30am-11pm Fri.-Sat., pizzas $14-23), a quirky joint right at the base of the mountain.
If the valley’s ubiquitous antiques and romance aren’t for you, try the stylish S Hostel Tevere (203 Powderhound Rd., 802/496-9222, www.hosteltevere.com, dorm beds $38 summer, $40 winter). It’s a convivial place to land after a day on the slopes or floating the Mad River, and the hostel’s bar keeps some of the best local brews on tap. There’s also a winter dart league on Thursday nights that’s open to visitors, and the bar regularly hosts live music on Friday (early-to-bed types should request a dormitory that’s farther from the stage). All dorms are mixed gender, with 5-7 beds; linens are provided, and towels are available for rent ($2).
Right at the base of the Sugarbush access road, The Warren Lodge (731 Rte. 100, 802/496-3084, www.thewarrenlodge.com, $99-175) was entirely renovated in 2016 with a blend of rustic design and modern comfort. Motel-style standard rooms have refrigerators and flat-screen televisions, and there are a range of suites, a cottage, and an efficiency that are a good deal for groups.
Exquisitely decorated, the Relais & Chateaux-designated Pitcher Inn (275 Main St., 802/496-6350, www.pitcherinn.com, $425-800) houses 11 rooms and suites—each individually decorated in a Vermont theme and with Wi-Fi, CD players, TVs, whirlpool tubs, and radiant floor heating; a few have wood-burning fireplaces. There’s also a stand-alone spa on the property, offering everything from hair care and pedicures to facials.
Of this village’s original settlers, 11 of 13 were veterans of the Battle of Lexington, the kickoff to the Revolutionary War. Bits of the original colonial architecture remain sprinkled throughout the town, which is the cultural center of the valley. Beyond the picture-perfect historical facades are start-up technology companies, artisans, and artists. It’s a sophisticated community that enjoys an extraordinary quality of life.
Waitsfield’s restaurants and accommodations make it a logical base for exploring the valley, and even if you’re just passing through, it’s a compelling place to pass an afternoon visiting little shops and enjoying the sunny beach by the town’s covered bridge.
In an era of ski-resort consolidation, rising lift-ticket prices, and runaway base-lodge development, Mad River Glen (MRG, Rte. 17, 5 miles west of Waitsfield, 802/496-3551, www.madriverglen.com, $60-75 adults, $55-59 seniors and youth 6-18) has its own agenda. MRG is the only cooperatively owned ski resort in the United States, and the only one on the National Register of Historic Places. The 1,800 skier-owners still staunchly ban snowboards and limit grooming to about half the trails, mostly novice and intermediate pistes.
skiing at Mad River Glen
It’s an unfashionable outlook that has earned passionate supporters, including a devoted set of lift-served telemark skiers, whom you can spot dropping their knees all over the hill. Mad River Glen’s motto is “Ski it if you can,” and the mountain’s steep, narrow, and notoriously hairy advanced trails (about half the runs) are truly challenging. Experts should take a run at Paradise, a precipitous tumble down exposed ledges, rocky moguls, and a frozen waterfall to get to the bottom. In practice, though, the resort is a friendly, community-oriented place where families and skiers of all abilities are welcomed. Just don’t try to sneak in a snowboard.
Sample maple rum, bourbon whiskey, and other spirits at the Waitsfield tasting room of Mad River Distillers (Rte. 100 and Rte. 17, 802/496-3330, www.madriverdistillers.com, noon-6pm Wed.-Sun.). This Warren-based distillery sources many of its ingredients from within the state, and the bottles have been racking up awards. Don’t miss the Malvados, a Calvados-inspired apple brandy made with fruit from Shoreham’s Champlain Orchards.
Waitsfield’s historical downtown is anchored by the 1833 Great Eddy Bridge, the second-oldest operating covered bridge in the state, which crosses the Mad River at the intersection of Route 100 and Bridge Street. (Only the Pulp Mill Bridge in Middlebury is older.) During the flooding following Hurricane Irene in 2011, the water line came up all the way to the base of the bridge, but the span stood, a testament to the nearly 200-year-old construction. There’s also a little beach and swimming hole right under the bridge.
The sophisticated, artsy vibe at Big Picture Theater and Cafe (48 Carroll Rd., off Rte. 100, 802/496-8994, www.bigpicturetheater.info, 8am-9pm daily) makes for one-stop evening fun—cutting-edge movies, film series, even an on-site restaurant where you can dine before the show ($9-18, reservations recommended).
During August, the whole valley comes alive for the month-long Festival of the Arts (802/496-6682, www.vermontartfest.com), in which the area’s many artisans hold art shows and classes, and local restaurants and lodgings offer special rates and events.
The Mad River Valley abounds with recreational activities. In addition to the suggestions below, the Mad River Glen ski area runs the Mad River Glen Naturalist Program (802/496-3551, www.madriverglen.com/naturalist), with guided tours that range from moonlit snowshoeing expeditions to wildlife-tracking trips to rock climbing.
With a bit of a drive there’s great hiking based out of Waitsfield, and three out of five of the peaks in Vermont above 4,000 feet rise from the Mad River Valley. While not the highest mountain in Vermont, the distinctly shaped Camel’s Hump is one of the best loved. Originally named “Camel’s Rump,” its shape is identifiable for miles around, and its summit is a great chance to see the unique (and uniquely fragile) eastern alpine ecosystem.
The most popular ascent is up the seven-mile Monroe Trail, a rock-hopping ascent from a birch-and-beech forest up to the unique alpine vegetation zone of its undeveloped summit. The parking area for the trail is at the end of Camel’s Hump Road in Duxbury. There is a trail map available on the website for Camel’s Hump State Park (www.vtstateparks.com/camelshump.html). The state park itself doesn’t have a visitors center or services, but ample information on access is available on the website.
Two more peaks, Mount Ellen and Mount Abraham, can be hiked singly or together, following the Long Trail along the 4,000-foot ridge between them. For information on all of these hikes, contact the Green Mountain Club (802/244-7037, www.greenmountainclub.org), or pick up a copy of the club’s indispensable Long Trail Guide, available at most bookstores and outdoors stores in Vermont.
This is an idyllic area for cycling, and you can take your pick of the Mad River Valley’s beautiful back roads. If you’re feeling ambitious, you can tackle the “gaps,” the steep mountain passes that lead to the neighboring Champlain Valley. Lincoln Gap and Appalachian Gap, two of the steepest in the state, can be connected in a leg-punishing loop that does a staggering amount of climbing in 35 miles.
If the mountains seem too daunting, the Mad River Path Association (802/496-7284, www.madriverpath.com) manages several walking and biking trails that weave in and out of the villages of the valley, taking in farms, woodlands, and bridges along the way. Bicycles can be rented from Clearwater Sports (4147 Main St., Rte. 100, Waitsfield, 802/496-2708, www.clearwatersports.com, bike rental from $25/day).
With a steady flow and the occasional patch of white water, the Mad River is ideal for anything that floats. Clearwater Sports (4147 Main St., Rte. 100, Waitsfield, 802/496-2708, www.clearwatersports.com) leads affordable all-day tours on the Mad and Winooski Rivers ($80 per person), as well as moonlight paddles. It also offers canoe and kayak rentals ($40-90) and inner tubes ($18), with an optional shuttle service. Book ahead when possible. For a quick dip, there’s also swimming beneath the Great Eddy Bridge in downtown Waitsfield.
Waitsfield’s outdoor skating rink, the Skatium (Village Sq., 802/496-8909) is a community gathering place in winter. The rink has skate rentals during public skating hours, generally all day on Saturday and Sunday from early December to as long as the ice lasts, as well as other hours during the week that vary by season. During the winter, call the rink directly for a full schedule.
Ride in Viking style on an Icelandic horse. In addition to the usual walk, trot, canter, and gallop, they’ve got a fifth gait, the tölt, a fluid, running walk. The Vermont Icelandic Horse Farm (3061 N. Fayston Rd., 802/496-7141, www.icelandichorses.com, rides $60-200) breeds well-mannered purebreds for rides that last an hour or all day.
Step into the Artisans’ Gallery (20 Bridge St., 802/496-6256, www.vtartisansgallery.com, 11am-6pm daily), in the Old Village area of Waitsfield, and prepare to feel bewildered by the enormous selection. Upward of 175 local craftspeople sell their goods here, which means you’ll have no problem finding jewelry, woodblock prints, hand-painted wooden bowls, and stoneware.
The most respected outdoors outfitter in the area, Clearwater Sports (4147 Main St., 802/496-2708, www.clearwatersports.com, 10am-6pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-6pm Sat., 10am-5pm Sun.) offers scads of gear and all the equipment rentals and guided tours you need to put it to proper use.
As in many of Vermont’s small towns, the Waitsfield Farmers’ Market (Mad River Green, 802/472-8027, www.waitsfieldfarmersmarket.com, 9am-1pm Sat. May-Oct.) is one of the week’s most important social events, where residents come down from the hills and stock up on community (and gossip) along with fresh produce and prepared foods. There is perhaps no better way to clue into the spirit of the valley than the boisterous event full of craft booths, organic produce from local farms, and stages full of folk, Latin, and Celtic musical performers.
S American Flatbread (48 Lareau Rd., 802/496-8856, www.americanflatbread.com, 5pm-9:30pm Thurs.-Sun., $7-16) has a devoted following, and deservedly so. Thursday-Sunday nights, the unassuming farmhouse setting turns into a party, swarmed by lovers of the organic menu of wholesome and gourmet pies, salads, and desserts made entirely from sustainable, farm-fresh Vermont ingredients. Reservations aren’t accepted, but do as the locals do and show up at 5pm to put your name on the wait list. You can request a specific time to come back, or just wait by the bonfire with a pint until your name is called.
There’s usually a crowd at Localfolk Smokehouse (Rte. 17 and Rte. 100, 802/496-5623, www.localfolkvt.com, 4pm-close Tues.-Sat., $6-17), a ramshackle-looking barbecue joint in an old Waitsfield barn. The menu has barbecue classics, tacos, and pub snacks, but regulars head straight for the meats: pulled pork, ribs, and chicken, smoked on-site and served with Southern-style sides. There’s often music on weekends, and the late night local scene can be boisterous.
Tucked into an unpromising-looking cluster of shops on Route 100, S The Mad Taco (5101 Main St., 802/496-3832, www.themadtaco.com, 11am-9pm daily, $9-11) serves Mexican favorites with rebellious flair. Snag a burrito or taco loaded up with carnitas or yams, and head straight for the assortment of house-made salsas and hot sauces. They come in squeeze bottles marked with a heat rating of 1-10—the spicy stuff is no joke. The Mad Taco also has a bar stocked with favorite local brews on draft and a few Mexican options in bottles.
In an adorable riverside shop, The Sweet Spot (40 Bridge St., 802/496-9199, 8am-4pm Mon.-Thurs., 8am-6pm Fri.-Sat., 8am-2pm Sun., $2-8) is exactly that. Creative homemade tarts and cookies and quality espresso drinks, as well as a dreamy assortment of house-made ice creams make this a perfect place to fortify yourself for an afternoon’s adventures. If you’re looking for something a bit more bracing to go with your brownie, The Sweet Spot also serves a nicely chosen list of cocktails, including some classic ice cream drinks.
Under the same ownership—and on the same property—as the lovably bohemian American Flatbread, Lareau Farm Inn (48 Lareau Rd., 802/496-4949, www.lareaufarminn.com, shared bath $100, private bath $125-145) names its rooms after principles its management holds dear—love, patience, and respect among them. The inn has the rambling feel of a family farmhouse and is enjoyably relaxed. With delicious breakfasts and free wireless Internet included—not to mention the attention of a genuinely warm staff—Lareau couldn’t offer better value.
Bright, creative touches make the vibrant rooms at the S Wilder Farm Inn (1460 Rte. 100, 800/496-8878, www.wilderfarminn.com, $152-192) as appealing as the homey common areas and rambling grounds. The owners, Linda and Luke, have decorated each one in a different style—from shabby chic to contemporary—so check out the options before choosing where to lay your head. The inn lends guests snowshoes for winter outings and inner tubes for trips down the Mad River, just across the street.
On a quiet property just outside of town, the Yellow Farmhouse Inn (550 Old Country Rd., 802/496-4623, https://yellowfarmhouseinn.com, $149-159) is as comfortable as it is lovely: With woodstoves in the guest rooms, it is especially cozy in the winter. Home-baked cookies, lavish breakfasts, and friendly hosts make this a spot that many travelers come to year after year.
The ultraromantic S Inn at the Round Barn Farm (1661 E. Warren Rd., 802/496-2276, www.theroundbarn.com, $205-330) is a harmonious blend of old-fashioned style and thoughtful modern luxuries. Most rooms in the 19th-century farmhouse have skylights, king-size beds, whirlpool tubs, gas fireplaces, and jaw-dropping mountain views. Executive chef Charlie Menard prepares a multicourse breakfast that is both generous and refined, a memorable experience.
Waitsfield and Warren are both on Route 100, which is easily accessed from I-89. The Mad Bus (802/496-7433, www.madrivervalley.com) shuttle stops at various locations in Waitsfield and Warren, with connections to Sugarbush, Mad River Glen, and Montpelier.
The Mad River Valley Chamber of Commerce (4061 Rte. 100/Main St., 800/828-4748, www.madrivervalley.com) runs a small visitors information center with maps, brochures, and sporadic staffing. An ATM is located at Chittenden Bank (Mad River Shopping Center, 802/496-2585).
Wrapped by forested hills and bisected by the Winooski River, America’s tiniest capital city has a small-town soul. Everyone seems to know each other in the downtown cafés, the natural food co-op, and at the traditional contra dances held at the Capital City Grange.
It’s an easy place to explore on foot, and federal-style brick buildings and Victorian mansions lend a bit of pomp to the capital’s diminutive downtown. At the center of it all is the gold-capped capitol, dramatic against a leafy backdrop that changes with the seasons. Just as America’s founders intended, most of Vermont’s representatives undertake political life as a kind of community-serving side hustle, so if the politicians look more like farmers, professors, and retirees than the average DC politico, that’s because they are.
Montpelier’s impressive State House (115 State St., 802/828-2228, www.legislature.vermont.gov, 7:45am-4:15pm Mon.-Fri., 11am-3pm Sat. July-Oct., guided tours every half hour 10am-3:30pm Mon.-Fri. late June-Oct.) dominates State Street with a 57-foot golden dome above a columned Renaissance Revival building that was built in 1859.
Fittingly for the state, the dome is topped by a wooden statue of Ceres, the goddess of agriculture. Look for a statue of Ethan Allen, the Revolutionary War figure, in the Greek Revival front portico, and a cannon that was seized at the Battle of Bennington (having completed Revolutionary service, it’s now permanently trained on the Department of Motor Vehicles across the street). Tours of the building’s interior take in statues and paintings of Vermont politicians who figured in state and national history, including Presidents Coolidge and Chester A. Arthur. You can also explore on your own, by accessing a cell phone audio guide (802/526-3221, vermontstatehouse.toursphere.com) that corresponds to numbered locations within the State House.
In Vermont, you are never far from a sugarhouse. On the edge of the city, seventh-generation Burr Morse has turned his farm into one of the premier maple syrup producers in the state. Morse Farm Maple Sugarworks (1168 County Rd., 800/242-2740, www.morsefarm.com, 9am-8pm daily late May-early Sept., 9am-6pm daily early Sept.-Christmas, 9am-5pm daily Christmas-late May, donations accepted) is a virtual museum of the industry, with old photographs and a “split-log” movie theater that shows a film of the sugaring process. A cavernous gift shop sells maple kettle corn and that most Vermont-y of treats, maple creemees (soft-serve maple ice cream cones).
Spring in Vermont is better known as mud season, when frozen back roads melt into quagmires, and precipitation falls as a slushy wintry mix. But the period from mid-March until early April is also sugaring season, when a precise cycle of alternating freezes and thaws kick-starts the sugar maples’ vascular systems and causes sap to flow. When that happens, sugarmakers collect the slightly sweet liquid by drilling tap holes in each tree and collecting the runoff in metal buckets or plastic tubing that runs through the forest like spider webs.
Maple sap flows from a tap on a maple tree to produce maple syrup.
When they have enough sap, sugarmakers boil it in wide, shallow pans called evaporators, usually heated by wood gathered in the surrounding hills, and cook it down until it turns thick and golden—the ratio of sap to syrup varies from tree to tree, but averages around 40:1.
Sugaring is a social event in Vermont, and neighbors have a sixth sense for when someone’s boiling. Over the course of an evening in the sugarhouse, friends will drop by for beer and conversation, along with shots of hot, fresh syrup, right out of the pan. Everyone’s got a favorite sugaring snack, from hot dogs boiled in sap to syrup poured over vanilla ice cream, and you can discover yours at the yearly Maple Open House Weekend (www.vermontmaple.org, mid-Mar.), when sugarhouses around the state open their doors to visitors and prepare all the traditional treats. Don’t miss sugar on snow, where syrup is cooked to a taffy-like consistency and served with a pickle.
From the beginning of Vermont’s history as an independent republic, its residents have struggled with the tension between “Freedom and Unity,” the state motto that became a starting point for the complete renovation of the Vermont Historical Society Museum (109 State St., 802/828-2291, www.vermonthistory.org, 10am-4pm Tues.-Sat. May-mid-Oct., $7 adults, $5 students and seniors, children under 6 free, $20 families), a notably thoughtful journey back into the story of the state. Exhibits start with full-scale reconstructions of an Abenaki dwelling and the Revolutionary-era Catamount Tavern, and continue on to include Civil War artifacts, a room dedicated to Vermont-born president Coolidge, and even a collection on the early history of skiing. The gift shop has an extensive selection of books on Vermont history and culture.
One of the best of Montpelier’s galleries is also the oldest. The T.W. Wood Gallery & Arts Center (46 Barre St., 802/262-6035, www.twwoodgallery.org, noon-4pm Tues.-Sun.) has been showcasing the work of Vermont artists for more than 100 years, with a permanent collection of modern art and rotating shows by local contemporary artists.
Mary Stone’s hand-sculpted clay animal whistles are just one of the unique crafts on display at the Artisans Hand Craft Gallery (89 Main St., 802/229-9446, www.artisanshand.com, 10am-6pm Mon.-Sat., noon-4pm Sun.), a hub for jewelry, pottery, woodwork, and metalwork from Vermont artisans.
With a destination-worthy beer list and a laid-back atmosphere, Three Penny Taproom (108 Main St., 802/223-8277, www.threepennytaproom.com) is Montpelier’s best bar, and the adjoining restaurant serves appealing, dressed-up pub fare.
Montpelier’s professional theater company, Lost Nation Theater (39 Main St., 802/229-0492, www.lostnationtheater.org) performs an eclectic mix of musicals, contemporary drama, and an annual fall Shakespeare production. The Savoy Theater (26 Main St., 802/229-0509, www.savoytheater.com) screens first-run and classic art films.
Moody decor and sophisticated food have made Kismet (52 State St., 802/223-8646, www.kismetkitchens.com, 5pm-9pm Wed.-Fri., 8am-2pm and 5pm-9pm Sat., 9am-2pm Sun., $20-27, prix fixe $40) Montpelier’s classic date-night restaurant; couples dine on tortellini with baked ricotta and pistachio butter, or crimini en croute (crimini bathed in garlic butter). Brunch is served on the weekends and is sublime: Think savory bread pudding with bone marrow broth, and eggs en cocotte.
Like its fraternal twin in Waitsfield, S The Mad Taco (72 Main St., 802/225-6038, www.themadtaco.com, 11am-9pm daily, $9-11) serves Mexican fare with an anarchic Yankee streak. The menu is the same as at the Waitsfield location, and tortillas come filled with classics like carnitas and pork al pastor, or culinary mashups: Try the smoked pork with kimchi and cilantro. The beer and the food are often local, and the hefty burritos are memorable.
Bringing a welcome serving of Southern cuisine to Montpelier’s restaurant scene, Down Home Kitchen (100 Main St., 802/225-6665, www.downhomekitchenvt.com, 8am-2pm daily, $10-15) serves hearty, comforting food in a cheery space downtown. Meat and three, griddle cakes, and fried chicken are based in fresh, often local ingredients, with excellent coffee and beer to go alongside.
For years, Bohemian Bakery (78 Barre St., 802/461-8119, www.bohemianbakeryvt.com, 7:30am-1:30pm Wed.-Fri., 8am-2pm Sat.-Sun., $2-9) was based out of a tiny house in the northern woods, open to the public just one day a week, so sweets-lovers rejoiced when Bohemian opened a Montpelier shop in 2017. Favorites include the wonderfully flaky croissants, caramel-crispy kouign amann, and palm-sized fruit tarts, and there are savory pastries and hearty quiche for lunch.
Artisans and growers come out of the woodwork for the Capital City Farmers Market (State St. at Elm St., 9am-1pm Sat. May-Oct.), one of the best in the state. Vendors include the highly sought-after (and scarce) Lawson’s Finest Liquids brewery, which isn’t open to the public.
In the heart of downtown, Betsy’s Bed & Breakfast (74 E. State St., 802/229-0466, www.central-vt.com/web/betsybb, $85-190) has 12 guest rooms spread between two Victorian mansions decorated with period antiques. The interiors are a bit timeworn and dark, but the friendly owners, Betsy and Jon, serve delightful breakfasts.
Drift off to the sounds of crickets and frogs (or falling snow) at S High Hill Inn (265 Green Rd., East Montpelier, 802/223-3623, www.highhillinn.com, $132-170). Comfortable rooms and a relaxed country setting make this hilltop inn feel like a getaway. The generous breakfast spread is a highlight.
Two gracious federal-style buildings (with no fewer than 10 fireplaces) comprise the Inn at Montpelier (147 Main St., 802/223-2727, www.innatmontpelier.com, $150-250). The antiques-filled common areas lead into 19 neat rooms, with canopy beds, colonial-style bureaus, and walls ranging from tomato-red to bold floral. A simple breakfast is served in the old-fashioned dining room, and in warm months, the gracious porch is the perfect place to watch the town drift by. Book well ahead during the legislative session (Jan.-Apr.).
Across from the State House, the Capital Region Visitors Center (134 State St., 802/828-5981, 6am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-5pm Sat.-Sun.) has lots of brochures, maps, and advice on area attractions.
ATMs are available at many downtown locations, including at Citizens Bank (7 Main St., 802/223-9545). In an emergency, contact Vermont State and Montpelier City Police (1 Pitkin Ct., 802/223-3445).
Montpelier is located directly off I-89 at exit 8, and at the confluence of Route 2 and Route 302 from New Hampshire.
Amtrak (800/872-7245, www.amtrak.com) runs trains to Junction Road in Montpelier. Buses from Green Mountain Transit (802/864-2282, www.ridegmt.com) link Montpelier with Burlington on weekdays only. Taxi service is available from Green Cab (802/864-2424, www.greencabvt.com), and the Green Mountain Transit Agency (802/223-7287, www.gmtaride.org) operates bus routes around Montpelier and Barre.
Upon arrival in Stowe’s center, you might find that the curated cuteness of downtown—white church spire, alpine-style buildings, boutique shops—seems slightly clichéd. But this particular New England town is an original, the real deal, and helped define the genre of adorable mountain resorts. Tourists have been coming here since the Civil War, drawn to the remarkable scenery, rugged culture, and endless opportunities for outdoor adventure that continue to attract visitors from around the world. This is mountain living gone upscale, and if Stowe has acquired a commercial sheen since its founding in 1763, it’s still got deep Vermont roots, with great dining and appealing accommodations that make it an excellent base for exploring the northern Green Mountains.
Climbing the slopes of Mount Mansfield, Vermont’s highest peak, Stowe Mountain Resort (7416 Mountain Rd., 800/253-3000, www.stowe.com, $92-124 adults, $82-114 seniors, $72-104 children) is one of the state’s best downhill destinations. The base lodge is chic, the lifts are fast, and there’s a massive snowmaking operation that keeps the mountain chugging even in chancy weather. A gondola links Mount Mansfield with the neighboring Spruce Peak, and even on busy weekends, the massive trail system means there’s always some clear space to get in some turns.
In the summer, Stowe Mountain Resort operates an eight-person, high-speed gondola skyride (Mountain Rd./Rte. 108, 800/253-4754, www.stowe.com, 10am-4:30pm late June-mid-Oct., round-trip $28 adults, $17 youth 6-12, $84 families) up to the summit that takes in views of the village and surrounding mountains on the way.
It’s also possible to drive to the summit of Mount Mansfield on the winding, unpaved Stowe Mountain toll road, which takes off from Route 108 at the Toll House Conference Center (5781 Rte. 108/Mountain Rd., tolls $23 car and driver, $8 each passenger, children 4 and under free). The 4.5-mile-long road is closed to motorcycles, RVs, and bicycles, and climbs steeply to the “nose” of Mount Mansfield, where it’s possible to park and continue to the “chin,” the highest summit, on a 1.3-mile, one-way walking trail.
The views are spectacular, but for a scenic drive without the toll, just keep winding up Route 108, an incredibly twisty, curving road that’s hemmed in by high cliffs, granite boulders, and trees that turn bright gold in the fall. Route 108 climbs through Smugglers’ Notch, a mountain pass said to have been used to bring contraband from Canada during the years of Prohibition. Oversized vehicles should stay away, and all drivers should approach this road with great care, as hikers, rock climbers, and cyclists are often hidden behind the sharp corners.
Route 108 near Smugglers’ Notch
Stowe is blessed with a wealth of locally made craft alcohols, starting with the Austrian lager beers at Von Trapp Brewery & Bierhall (1333 Luce Hill Rd., 802/253-5750, www.vontrappbrewing.com, 11:30am-9pm daily). Favorites include the malty Vienna Style Lager and the Helles Lager, and the Bierhall’s menu of Austrian pub food—think cheddar and beer soup, hot soft pretzels, and many kinds of sausages—are perfect pairings for the entire lineup.
In contrast, the beers at Idletyme Brewing Company (1859 Mountain Rd./Rte. 108, 802/253-4765, www.idletymebrewing.com, 11:30am-9pm daily) are defined only by their distinctiveness. The brewer is consistently creative, with seasonal specials along with a list of mainstays: Try the Pink ‘n’ Pale, an American pale ale brewed with a hint of bitter grapefruit.
Taste hard ciders fermented from Vermont apples at Stowe Cider (1799 Rte. 108/Mountain Rd., 802/253-2065, www.stowecider.com, noon-6pm Thurs.-Sat., noon-5pm Sun.-Mon., flight of 4 ciders $6), where a husband-and-wife team gets creative with a lineup of dry ciders. Try the dry-hopped Safety Meeting, whose refreshing bitterness might tempt craft beer lovers, and sample seasonal one-offs and limited editions.
Just north of town on Route 100, Green Mountain Distillers (171 Whiskey Run, Morristown, 802/253-0064, www.greendistillers.com, noon-5pm Thurs.-Sat.) makes small-batch, organic vodka, gin, and maple liqueur, and in 2017, released an aged whiskey from its handmade pot still. The owners, Tim and Howie, are passionate about their work, and are amazing sources of distilling facts and alcohol lore.
If you fantasize about laying the first ski tracks down the side of Mount Mansfield, the Vermont Ski and Snowboard Museum (1 S. Main St., 802/253-9911, www.vtssm.com, noon-5pm Wed.-Sun., donations encouraged) offers a dose of reality. The history exhibits give you an appreciation of just how gutsy it was to ski in the days before modern equipment, lifts, and clothing. Located in Stowe’s former town hall, the museum has several rooms of exhibits, a plasma screen with ski videos, and a hall of fame of great names in Vermont skiing history.
The community-supported Helen Day Art Center (90 Pond St., 802/253-8358, www.helenday.com, 10am-5pm Tues.-Sat. year-round, donations accepted) has been dedicated to showcasing local art for more than 25 years. It inhabits the 2nd floor of a Greek Revival building in the center of town, with a sculpture garden out back.
A more extensive sculpture garden fills the grounds of the West Branch Gallery and Sculpture Park (17 Towne Farm Ln., 802/253-8943, www.westbranchgallery.com, 10am-5pm Tues.-Sun. year-round, free), where contemporary art has a bucolic backdrop about a mile north of town.
Mountain Road is lined with lively bars and restaurants for après-ski recovery, and most sport fireplaces, rustic decor, and the kind of comforting snacks that go well with beer. In addition to Doc Ponds and The Bench (see the Food section for listings), Piecasso Pizzeria & Lounge (1899 Mountain Rd., 802/253-4411, 11am-11pm daily, www.piecasso.com) is a local favorite, with lots of seats at the bar, creative pizza, and undeniably scrumptious chicken wings. This is the kind of bar where kids are welcome and comfortable.
The Trapp family keeps the hills alive (with the sound of classical music) by hosting Music in our Meadow, a series of outdoor performances in partnership with Stowe Performing Arts (802/253-7729, www.stoweperformingarts.com). And the Stowe Theatre Guild (67 Main St., 802/253-3961, www.stowetheatre.com) presents crowd-pleasing musicals throughout the year at the Stowe Town Hall Theatre.
Ski jumping and ice-sculpture carving shake Stowe out of the winter doldrums during the Stowe Winter Carnival (www.stowecarnival.com, late Jan.). A highlight is the Village Night Block Party, which fills the streets with bulky parkas and merriment.
Sweets lovers can follow their noses to Laughing Moon Chocolates (78 S. Main St., 802/253-9591, www.laughingmoonchocolates.com, 9am-6pm daily), where confections are handmade on-site. True devotees can sign up for chocolate-dipping workshops ($125 for 2 people).
Artist Susan Bayer Fishman owns and runs Stowe Craft Gallery (55 Mountain Rd., 802/253-4693, www.stowecraft.com, 10am-6pm daily, until 7pm holiday season), an epic collection of many other artists’ works—knickknacks like pewter measuring cups, glazed vases, and hand-carved backgammon sets.
Behind the Trapp Family Lodge, the Trapp Family Lodge Touring Center (700 Trapp Hill Rd., Stowe, 802/253-8511 or 800/826-7000, www.trappfamily.com, $25 adults, $20 seniors, $15 youth 12-18, $10 children 6-11, children under 6 free) has some 100 kilometers of cross-country ski trails through both groomed and ungroomed forest and meadowland. Plan your ski to pass by the Slayton Cabin, Trapp’s hilltop warming hut, where you can cozy up with hot chocolate by the fire. Rentals are available on-site.
Or you can dash through the woods to the sound of sleigh bells and draft horses, as Trapp Family Lodge offers open sleigh rides each weekend ($25 adults, $15 children 4-12, children under 4 free), or book a private sleigh ride ($95 couple, $22 child).
For gravity-powered entertainment, rent a toboggan from Shaw’s General Store (54 Main St., 802/253-4040, www.heshaw.com, 9am-6pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-5pm Sun.), or a more extreme sled from Umiak Outdoor Outfitters (849 S. Main St., 802/253-2317, www.umiak.com, 9am-6pm daily, $25 per day), which features the latest from Mad River Rockets and Hammersmith, and will point you to the vertiginous heights on which to test them. The best spot for sledding right in Stowe is Marshall’s Hill, just behind the elementary school; to get there, turn onto School Street at Black Cap Coffee (144 Main St.).
Leaving from the top of the Smugglers’ Notch road, a steep, 1.1-mile hike leads to scenic Sterling Pond, a scenic body of water that is dazzling in autumn. To reach the trailhead from Stowe village, drive 8.9 miles north on Route 108, then park in the Smugglers’ Notch Visitor Center parking lot on the left. The trail departs from just across the street, following blue blazes to the lake. Once there, an additional loop trail continues around the 1.4-mile perimeter of Sterling Pond.
An easier hike is the 1-mile walk to Moss Glenn Falls, which flows into a series of swimming holes that are perfect for hot afternoons. From Stowe village, drive 3 miles north on Route 100, then turn right on Randolph Road. Take the first right, on Moss Glenn Falls Road, then continue 0.6 mile to a parking lot on the left. Another great swimming hole (at the end of an even shorter trail) can be found at Bingham Falls. To reach the falls from Stowe village, drive north on Route 108 for 6.4 miles, and watch for the trailhead and pullouts to the east of the road. It’s a 0.5 mile hike to the falls.
Stretching 5.3 miles from Stowe village to Top Notch Resort on Mountain Road, the paved Stowe Recreation Path (802/253-6148, www.stowerec.org) twists back and forth across the West Branch River, with plenty of places to stop to swim and picnic along the way. The access point in Stowe village is behind the Stowe Community Church at 137 Main Street, and dogs are allowed on leash. Bikes are available for rent at several locations in town, including AJ’s Ski and Sports (350 Mountain Rd., 800/226-6257, www.stowesports.com, $9 per hour, $19 for 4 hours).
For biking that’s more dirt, less asphalt, head to the excellent Cady Hill Forest (parking lot on Mountain Rd. across from Town and Country Resort, 876 Mountain Rd., www.stowelandtrust.org), with 11 miles of single-track that ranges from moderate and flowy to technical and rocky. Maps of the trails can be found on the Stowe Land Trust parking lot, and paper versions are for sale at most of the town’s bicycle shops. Some sections of Cady Hill are groomed for fat biking during the winter months.
With a fabulous beer list and lots of polished copper, The Bench (492 Mountain Rd., 802/253-5100, www.benchvt.com, 4pm-close Mon.-Fri., 11:30am-close Sat.-Sun., mains $15-20) serves pizzas, salads, and grown-up comfort food in a relaxed setting. There are 25 beers on tap, and in the snowy months it’s hard to beat a seat at the bar, where you’ll have a view of the wood-fired brick oven that’s used for much of the menu (including the delightful roast duck).
Run by the chefs behind the James Beard Award-winning Hen of the Wood in Burlington, S Doc Ponds (294 Mountain Rd., 802/760-6066, www.docponds.com, 4pm-midnight Tues.-Thurs., 11:30am-midnight Fri.-Mon., $7-19) serves a menu of hearty snacks and comfort food, with burgers, smoked meats, and ample pickled vegetables.
Excellent espresso, teas, and filling breakfast sandwiches make PK Coffee (1880 Mountain Rd., 802/760-6151, www.pkcoffee.com, 7am-5pm daily) a good stop on the way up to the mountain, and the counter is stocked with locally made pastries, granola, and other treats.
Ten minutes south of the village, Michael’s on the Hill (4182 Rte. 100, 802/244-7476, www.michaelsonthehill.com, 5:30pm-9pm Wed.-Mon., $28-43) is worth the trip for a special dinner. An elegant menu of European-influenced food prepared with many local ingredients is served in a converted farmhouse.
If you’re detoxing from all that comfort food, seek out the Green Goddess Café (618 S. Main St., 802/253-5255, www.greengoddessvt.com, 7:30am-3pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-3pm Sat.-Sun., mains $6-10), where breakfast and lunch include great salads, fresh juice, and plenty of vegetarian options alongside hearty sandwiches and egg dishes.
Also, it’s worth nothing that many of the listings in other sections of this chapter—notably the Von Trapp Brewery & Bierhall, Piecasso Pizzeria & Lounge, and Idletyme Brewing Co.—are also very worthwhile restaurants.
For travelers on a budget, you can’t beat a room at the Riverside Inn (1965 Mountain Rd., 802/253-4217, www.rivinn.com, $69-139), a homey, somewhat ramshackle farmhouse with charming owners and a great location. Motel-style rooms out back are newer and have coffeemakers and microwaves. It’s a good choice for families and groups, as some rooms come equipped with several beds.
The rustic and comfortable Timberholm Inn (452 Cottage Club Rd., 802/253-7603, www.timberholm.com, $110-235) is convenient to the mountain and village and includes a three-course homemade breakfast and warm cookies in the afternoon. A hot tub, shuffleboard, and movie area make this a welcoming haven when the weather doesn’t cooperate. If you’re planning to ski, ask about packages with lift tickets.
Even closer to the slopes is Northern Lights Lodge (4441 Mountain Rd., 802/253-8541, www.stowelodge.com, $99-200), which offers hot breakfasts, a hot tub, and a sauna to help you prepare for (and recover from) your activities of choice.
S Edson Hill (1500 Edson Hill Rd., 802/253-7171, www.edsonhill.com, $175-500), which was redesigned in 2014, is drop-dead gorgeous, from the picture-perfect interior to its setting on a hill with killer views. Rooms include breakfast in an enchanting dining room, and with a plush tavern, craft drinks, and a menu of creatively wrought comfort food, you many never want to leave. The 38-acre property includes stables and hiking trails, as well as cross-country skiing (equipment is provided).
With loads of pampering and fantastic recreation for adults and kids, S Topnotch Resort (4000 Mountain Rd., 800/451-8686, www.topnotchresort.com, $385-535) wins the luxury-for-families award, hands down. Grown-ups can chill out on the slopes at either of the beautifully kept mountainside pools (one indoors, one outdoors) or in the glorious new spa’s treatment rooms. Meanwhile, the children’s activity program is extensive and well organized, so both they and mom and dad feel entertained by the day’s end. Not for families only, the resort also manages to make couples feel catered to, with romantic dining at Norma’s, sumptuously decorated suites with oversized tubs, and couples’ massages.
With 20 walk-in sites and 14 lean-tos, the campground at Smugglers’ Notch State Park (6443 Mountain Rd., 802/253-4014, www.vtstateparks.com/smugglers.html, tent sites $18-20, lean-tos $25-27) has a great location on Mountain Road and historic structures built by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC).
The Stowe Area Association (51 Main St., 877/467-8693, 9am-6pm Mon.-Sat., 11am-5pm Sun., www.gostowe.com) runs a welcome center at the crossroads of Main Street and Mountain Road. Wi-Fi Internet can be accessed around the corner at Stowe Free Library (90 Pond St., 802/253-6145, 9:30am-5:30pm Mon., Wed., Fri., noon-7pm Tue. & Thu., 10am-3pm Sat.). Also at Main and Mountain is a branch of People’s United Bank (1069 Mountain Rd., 802/253-8525, 8:30am-4:30pm Mon.-Fri.).
Medical needs can be filled at Heritage Drugs (1878 Mountain Rd., 802/253-2544) as well as Kinney Drugs (155 S. Main St., Cambridge, 802/644-8811, 8:30am-8pm Mon.-Fri., 8:30am-7pm Sat., 9am-5pm Sun., pharmacy 8:30am-7pm Mon.-Fri., 8:30am-4pm Sat.). In an emergency, contact the Stowe Police Department (350 S. Main St., 802/253-7126).
Stowe village is at the intersection of Route 108 and Route 100, 15 minutes north of I-89. Amtrak has service to Waterbury, where you can catch one of the frequent buses to Stowe with Green Mountain Transit (802/864-2282, www.ridegmt.com).
During the winter months, the free Mountain Road Shuttle (www.gostowe.com) connects the village and the resort, with stops at major hotels along the way.
With a mix of small-town reserve and urban sophistication, Vermont’s largest city is the state’s cultural heart. There are forested trails, organic farms, and beaches within the city limits, and on snowbound winter mornings you can spot cross-country skis lined up outside the coffee shops.
Throughout the summer, the waterfront fills up with sailboats and kayaks, and locals ditch work to cool off at their favorite swimming spots. The warm months are a frenzy of activity in Burlington, with almost-weekly festivals that flood the town with music, art, and food lovers.
Perched above it all is the stately University of Vermont, whose 12,000 students swell the population by almost 30 percent. The school was founded in 1791 by Ira Allen (Ethan’s brother), and academic life remains an important source of energy for the town. This is not a place with a town-gown divide—on a Saturday night in Burlington you can raise a glass, cut a rug, or take a moonlight ski with sugarmakers, sociologists, and senators.
A few decades of renovations have turned the Burlington Waterfront (1 College St., 802/865-7247), once a bustling lumber port, into a pedestrian-friendly park filled with art and native plants. The view is dramatic when the sun sets over the Adirondacks, so bring a picnic and watch as sailboats, paddleboards, and kayaks drift by. The bike path runs right through the middle of things, so if you’ve got two wheels or want to rent them, the waterfront is a great starting point. While you’re exploring, see if you can find the statue of The Lone Sailor tucked behind the ECHO Leahy Center for Lake Champlain. The monument was cast with bronze from eight U.S. Navy ships, a fitting tribute on the shores of Lake Champlain, which saw key naval battles in the Revolutionary War and the War of 1812.
the Burlington Waterfront
On summer days when the city is stifling, the best seat in town may be at the easy-to-miss Splash at the Boathouse (0 College St., 802/343-5894, www.splashattheboathouse.com, 11am-10pm daily May-Oct., $8-15) restaurant at the end of a dock on the waterfront. Snag an Adirondack chair for a stellar sunset view.
With ancient coral reefs, whale skeletons, and a mythical monster in its depths, Lake Champlain is one of the most distinctive bodies of freshwater in the world. The scientists behind the ECHO Leahy Center for Lake Champlain (1 College St., 802/864-1848, www.echovermont.org, 10am-5pm daily, $16.50 adults, $14.50 seniors and students, $13.50 children 3-17, children under 3 free) have done a bang-up job of making the geology and fauna of the lake accessible and family friendly. “Hands-on” is the watchword at this small science center, with plenty of interactive exhibits to get kids good and wet while they learn about river currents or pull critters out of lake pools. There is plenty for nature-loving adults, too, like aquarium tanks full of the fish, turtles, snakes, and frogs that live beneath the surface of Lake Champlain.
Check out Burlington from the water on the Spirit of Ethan Allen III (Burlington Boathouse, 348 Flynn Ave., 802/862-8300, www.soea.com, 10am, noon, 2pm, and 4pm daily May-Oct., $21 adults, $8.43 children 3-11), which has piped-in narration for its 1.5-hour sightseeing cruise.
If you prefer to hit the lake under sail, consider a trip on the beautiful gaff-rigged sloop Friend Ship (1 College St., 802/598-6504, www.whistlingman.com, May-Oct., $50 adults, $35 children 2-12), which offers three daily sailing cruises as well as two-, four-, and eight-hour private charters. It’s a sublime experience when a steady breeze allows Captain Mike to shut off the engine and you travel to the sounds of water and wind alone. The cruises are two hours, and water is provided; bring your own food, beer, and wine.
University of Vermont (194 S. Prospect St., 802/656-3131, www.uvm.edu) educates some 12,000 students on a stately campus filled with historic brick buildings. Chartered in 1791 by a group of Vermonters, including Ira Allen, it was the fifth college in the country (after Harvard, Yale, Dartmouth, and Brown). For visitors, its prized attraction is the Robert Hull Fleming Museum (University of Vermont, 61 Colchester Ave., 802/656-0750, www.flemingmuseum.org, 10am-4pm Tues. and Thurs.-Fri., 10am-7pm Wed., noon-4pm Sat.-Sun., $5 adults, $3 students and seniors, children 6 and under free, $10 families), an art and archaeology museum with mummies, Buddhas, Mesoamerican pottery, and other artifacts from some of the world’s great civilizations.
Today, Ethan Allen’s name recalls the furniture company that was named for him in 1932, but Allen was one of the most colorful—and enigmatic—characters of early Vermont history. His modest Cape Cod-style home, known as the Ethan Allen Homestead (1 Ethan Allen Homestead Way, 802/865-4556, www.ethanallenhomestead.org, 10am-4pm daily May-Oct., $10 adults, $9 seniors, $6 children 5-17, children under 5 free), has been restored to the period, though only his kitchen table and a few other small Allen artifacts survive. The homestead offers a low-budget film exploring the conflicting accounts of the man himself, as well as a guided tour of the property.
The outdoor Burlington Farmers’ Market (City Hall Park, www.burlingtonfarmersmarket.org, 8:30am-2pm Sat. May-Oct.) is a foodie paradise and one of the biggest social events of the week in the Queen City. Locals and visitors fill their baskets with fresh vegetables, hot food, and pastries while listening to live music and lounging on the grass. With dozens of vendors, you could browse all day, but don’t miss the home-brewed soda at Rookie’s Root Beer (the Dark Side is an addictive blend of espresso and root beer topped with molasses cream). If you’re planning a picnic, pick up some excellent goat cheese at Doe’s Leap to go with rye bread from Slow Fire Bakery or savory biscuits from Barrio Bakery. There are lots of sweet treats to choose from, but on a hot day you can follow the lines to Adam’s Berry Farm for popsicles made from organic fruit, or to The Farm Between for what may be the world’s best snow cones—try the black currant.
Art at the BCA Center (135 Church St., 802/865-7166, www.burlingtoncityarts.org, 11am-5pm Tues.-Thurs., 11am-8pm Fri.-Sat., also Sun. 11am-5pm May-Oct., free) explores contemporary themes with multimedia and interactive exhibitions in oversized gallery spaces. Some of its shows are more successful than others; all are provocative. A recent exhibit, for example, looked at perspectives from Iraq vets-turned-artists working in media including U.S. currency and flags and their own uniforms, to come to grips with their experiences in war.
When flying into Burlington’s airport, the city looks tiny, a tidy cluster of buildings surrounded by farms. It’s worth getting out to one, because agriculture continues to be the cultural and financial mainstay of the state, and once you meet a few farmers you’ll notice their names on menus all over town and leave with a deeper sense of place. Dairy continues to be the most significant agricultural product in the Champlain Valley, but locavore culture has made this fertile ground for a thriving community of small farmers who cultivate everything from grapes to grains.
A good place to start is Vermont Farm Tours (802/922-7346, www.vermontfarmtours.com, $75-125), which organizes visits to vintners, cheese makers, and other horticultural hot spots, as well as farm-oriented bike tours in the area. Chris Howell, the affable owner, also runs a monthly Cocktail Walk ($45) in Winooski that pairs local distillers and mixologists.
In July and August, the urban farming nonprofit Intervale Center (180 Intervale Rd., 802/660-0440, www.intervale.org) hosts Summervale, an agricultural hoedown each Thursday with music and food. They also organize free monthly tours of the on-site organic farms (call for details). Every Friday during the summer, the organic Bread and Butter Farm (200 Leduc Farm Dr., Shelburne, 802/985-9200, www.breadandbutterfarm.com) throws festive Burger Nights, with music, burgers (veggie and beef), hot dogs, and fixings from its cows and on-site bakery. The gorgeous spread is a 15-minute drive from downtown Burlington.
The best place to find out what’s happening in the Queen City’s nightclubs, theaters, and concert halls is in the free weekly paper Seven Days (www.7dvt.com) or on the Lake Champlain Region Chamber of Commerce website (www.vermont.org).
The last several years have seen an explosion of craft cocktail culture in Vermont, as creative bartenders bring the farm-to-table approach to mixing drinks using locally distilled spirits, artisanal bitters, and fresh ingredients of all kinds. Some of the best cocktail bars are also restaurants, like the superb Juniper Bar at Hotel Vermont (41 Cherry St., 802/651-0080, www.hotelvt.com, 7am-midnight daily), which stocks every single spirit made in Vermont and blends them into thoughtful drinks. Another fabulous restaurant bar is the one at Pizzeria Verità (156 St. Paul St., 802/489-5644, www.pizzeriaverita.com, 5pm-10pm Sun.-Thurs., 5pm-11pm Fri.-Sat.), whose Italian-inflected cocktails blend in a wide range of amaro liqueurs.
And though it’s not exactly a mixology destination, there is something transporting about a lazy afternoon at Splash at the Boathouse (0 College St., 802/658-2244, www.splashattheboathouse.com, 11am-10pm daily May-Oct.), where generic tropical bar decor complements the best views in town. Since Splash is built on a floating dock, you can drink your beer with your toes in the water while watching bare-chested yachties maneuver their powerboats in the marina’s close quarters. (For Burlington’s many beer-focused bars, see Callout.)
You can find something to shimmy to every day of the week in Burlington, where most bars stay open until 2am. There’s always a full lineup at Radio Bean (8 N. Winooski Ave., 802/660-9346, www.radiobean.com), a bar and coffee shop packed with hipsters watching acts that range from traditional Irish to experimental jazz. Honky Tonk Night (10pm Tues.) is a good bet for swinging neo-country music.
On weekend nights, Church Street Marketplace is thronged with a lively college crowd that heads to Red Square (136 Church St., 802/859-8909, www.redsquarevt.com) or Nectar’s (188 Main St., 802/856-4771, www.liveatnectars.com) to shake it off to DJ and live music.
It’s always worth checking the lineup of high-quality indie groups that play at Signal Kitchen (71 Main St., 802/399-2337, www.signalkitchen.com) and ArtsRiot (400 Pine St., 802/540-0406, www.artsriot.com), who further their mission of “destroying apathy” by cooking up great shows and tasty, creative pub food. When bigger acts come through Burlington, though, they usually land at Higher Ground (1214 Williston Rd., South Burlington, 802/652-0777, www.highergroundmusic.com).
A former vaudeville house, the Flynn Center for the Performing Arts (153 Main St., 802/863-5966, www.flynncenter.org) was restored to its art deco grandeur in 2000. It now serves as the cultural hub of the city, with musicals, dance performances, and shows by mainstream jazz and country acts from Diana Krall to Pink Martini.
The South End Arts District (802/859-9222, www.seaba.com) is home to many collective studios and galleries. They throw open their doors for the First Friday Art Walk (802/264-4839, www.artmapburlington.com) each month, which is free to attend; most galleries stay open 5pm-8pm. Don’t miss the S.P.A.C.E. Gallery (266 Pine St., Ste. 105, 802/578-2512, noon-5pm Wed.-Sat.), which has a quirky mix of artist spaces that run the gamut from fine oil paintings to scary dolls.
Burlington hosts a festival almost every weekend during the summer, and it’s worth booking far ahead during those times, as hotels fill up quickly. For 10 days in early June, music lovers from around the region flock to the Burlington Discover Jazz Festival (www.discoverjazz.com, June). The town is filled with tunes, from ticketed events featuring big-name artists to free daily jazz sets in many restaurants, bars, and parks. And if you prefer brews to blues, don’t miss July’s Vermont Brewers Festival (802/760-8535, www.vtbrewfest.com, July), when a who’s who of local and regional brewers sets up shop right in Waterfront Park. If you’d like to attend, check the website well in advance of your trip, as tickets often sell out the day they go on sale (usually in May).
One of the most energetic days on the lake is the picturesque Dragon Boat Festival (802/999-5478, www.ridethedragon.org, Aug.), a boat race in which teams of 20 paddle 40-foot brightly painted canoes to raise money for local charities. The winner is invariably the team that works the best together, not necessarily the strongest.
The summer wraps up with the Grand Point North (www.grandpointnorth.com, mid-Sept) festival, put on by hometown musical heroes Grace Potter and the Nocturnals. Two days of music feature an impressive lineup of bands on open-air stages on the Burlington Waterfront, and Sunday’s final show is usually attended by a flotilla of kayaks and sailboats getting their tunes for free.
Church Street Marketplace (2 Church St., 802/863-1646, www.churchstmarketplace.com, 10am-7pm Mon.-Thurs., 10am-8pm Fri.-Sat., 10am-6pm Sun.) is the pedestrian heart of Burlington, lined with restaurants, bars, and a blend of local and national stores. There’s a handful of excellent outdoors gear stores, like Outdoor Gear Exchange (37 Church St., 802/860-0190, www.gearx.com, 10am-8pm Mon.-Thurs., 10am-9pm Fri.-Sat., 10am-6pm Sun.), which sells new and used equipment for every adventure imaginable, and the Ski Rack (85 Main St., 800/882-4530, www.skirack.com, 10am-7pm Mon.-Sat., 11am-5pm Sun.), whose collection of cross-country, backcountry, and alpine skis are the best in town. Both stores offer rental equipment for winter and summer sports.
Downtown Burlington also has two excellent locally owned bookstores: Crow Bookshop (14 Church St., 802/862-0848, www.crowbooks.com, 10am-9pm Mon.-Wed., 10am-10pm Thurs.-Sat., 10am-6pm Sun.) has a nice collection of used books and many local authors. Phoenix Books (191 Bank St., 802/448-3350, 10am-7pm Mon.-Wed., 10am-8pm Thurs.-Sat., 11am-5pm Sun., www.phoenixbooks.biz) has a broader selection of new books, including many options for regional travel.
Burlington is a great place to be a cyclist. If you’ve got wheels, the logical place to start is the Burlington Bike Path (Burlington Parks and Recreation, 802/864-0123, www.enjoyburlington.com), an eight-mile path that runs along the lake and connects several parks perfect for picnicking. A spur can connect via surface streets to Ethan Allen Homestead (1 Ethan Allen Homestead, 802/865-4556, www.ethanallenhomestead.org), where cyclists with dirt-appropriate tires can follow paths to the Intervale, a cluster of 11 organic farms strung out along the Winooski River.
view from the Burlington Bike Path on Lake Champlain
At the far northern end of the path, you can continue onto the Causeway, an elevated path that has unparalleled views of the lake. On most summer weekends you can catch a bicycle ferry from the end of the causeway that will drop you and your bike on South Hero Island. For more information about the ferry, or to rent bikes, contact the nonprofit Local Motion (1 Steele St., 802/861-2700, www.localmotion.org, 10am-6pm daily May-Oct.), which is a great source of cycling maps, gear, and advice on where to ride.
You could stroll around downtown all day, but if you want to get your feet on some dirt there’s some excellent natural areas right in town. The Rock Point Center (20 Rock Point Rd., 802/658-6233, www.rockpointvt.org, donations accepted) is owned by the Episcopal Church, which invites visitors to stroll around its forested property that juts dramatically out into the lake, making for showstopping sunsets. Stop by the diocese office for a free pass.
Rock Point’s main rival for sunset watching is Red Rocks Park (Central Ave., South Burlington, 802/846-4108), which has well-maintained trails with great lake views. But in springtime, at least, you won’t take your eyes off the ground, which is carpeted in wildflowers: look for Dutchman’s-breeches, trillium, and columbine. For more information about parks, visit the Burlington Parks and Recreation Department website (www.enjoyburlington.com, 802/864-0123).
On sunny summer days, the lakefront fills with a cheerful flotilla of kayaks, canoes, and stand-up paddleboards, as locals and tourists alike head for the water. It’s a wonderful way to explore the ins and outs of the shoreline, like the crags at Lone Rock Point and the forested peninsula just to the north of North Beach (60 Institute Rd. 802/862-0942). Look carefully at the rocks on the northern side of the outcropping and you’ll see a clear divide between the pale, smooth dolomite rock that makes up the top of the cliff and the dark, crumbling shale at the base. It’s an exposed thrust fault, where continental plates are colliding. You can rent a kayak or paddleboard right on the beach from Umiak Outfitters (802/651-8760, 11am-6pm daily mid-June-Labor Day, $20-30 for 2 hours).
Closer to downtown, the Community Sailing Center (234 Penny Ln., 802/864-2499, www.communitysailingcenter.org, hours vary, May-Oct, $15-55 per hour) has kayaks, paddleboards, and sailboats for use in Burlington Bay, and offers private and group classes if you want to brush up on your boat handling. Yogis ready to take their boat pose out for a spin should consider attending “Floating Yoga” classes taught on paddleboards (call for dates, $35).
Before opening on the site of a national hamburger chain, The Farmhouse Tap & Grill (160 Bank St., 802/859-0888, www.farmhousetg.com, 11:30am-11pm Mon.-Thurs., 11:30am-midnight Fri., 10am-midnight Sat., 10am-11pm Sun., $16-24) asked the community to suggest names, and then held a vote on its favorites. The winner was “The Old McDonalds Farmhouse.” Now known simply as The Farmhouse, this farm-to-table gastropub is popular for creative and comforting fare. The burgers are celebrated, but the starters, like the beef tartare with freshly made potato chips, are often standouts.
Right next door to the Zero Gravity Taproom, The Great Northern (716 Pine St., 802/489-5102, www.thegreatnorthernvt.com, 7am-9pm Mon.-Thurs., 7am-10pm Fri., 10am-10pm Sat., 10am-3pm Sun., $11-20) serves creative cuisine that pulls on local ingredients and global flavors. Brunch is a highlight here, with a lineup of hearty savory plates and stacks of pancakes topped with generous maple syrup.
Zabby & Elf’s Stone Soup (211 College St., 802/862-7616, www.stonesoupvt.com, 7am-9pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-9pm Sat., $7-12), an intimate, sunlit café, serves hearty soups, salads, and excellent sandwiches on its own bread, along with an eclectic buffet with plenty of vegan and gluten-free options. The large front window is made for people-watching, and there’s a decent wine and beer selection. When you add in one of the almond macaroons, you’ve got all the ingredients for a perfect afternoon.
S Hen of the Wood (55 Cherry St., 802/540-0534, www.henofthewood.com, 4pm-midnight daily, $22-30) is the second location of Chef Eric Warnstedt’s award-winning restaurant, and both turn out inspired, thoughtful food that draws diners from around the region. Chef Warnstedt blends a refined aesthetic with a serious throw-down of New England flavors. He places agriculture front and center, and the menu changes frequently, but oysters are a standout, as is the house-made charcuterie (Hen of the Wood offers a popular happy hour special of $1 oysters 4pm-5pm).
The food is as whimsical as the hosts are at S Penny Cluse Cafe (169 Cherry St., 802/651-8834, www.pennycluse.com, 6:45am-3pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-3pm Sat.-Sun., $6-12), named for the owner’s childhood dog and decked out with an ever-rotating collection of posters and local art. Dig into gingerbread pancakes at breakfast, or hang out until lunch and order up Baja fish tacos and a Bloody Mary.
Butch + Babes (258 N. Winooski, 802/495-0716, www.butchandbabes.com, 5pm-9pm Sun.-Wed., 5pm-10pm Thurs.-Sat., brunch 9:30am-2pm Sun., $12-16) is a collaboration between a Chicago-raised restaurateur and a New England Culinary Institute-trained chef from Bangkok, with a pub-inspired menu that pulls from those sources willy-nilly. The results are surprisingly harmonious and refreshingly laid-back, in an atmosphere that channels the vitality and diversity of the Old North End neighborhood where it’s located.
The folks at American Flatbread (115 St. Paul St., 802/861-2999, 11:30am-close daily, www.americanflatbread.com, pizzas $12-20) bought local before it was cool. This beloved pizza joint still serves thin-crust pizza topped with cheese, veggies, and meats from area farms. The specials are always worth a try, but the basic menu is filled with excellent options like the Punctuated Equilibrium, with olives, red peppers, and goat cheese. Wait times can get long on weekend nights, but if you can wedge yourself into the crowd at the bar, it’s a convivial place to while away an evening.
On evenings that call for low light and house-made banana ketchup, atmospheric ¡Duino! (Duende) (10 N. Winooski Ave., 802/660-9346, www.duinoduende.com, 4pm-midnight Sun.-Thurs., 4pm-1am Fri.-Sat., brunch 10am-4pm Sat.-Sun., $10-15) beckons. Its concept of “international street food” is interpreted loosely and with a taste for cultural mashups: Korean tacos with kimchi and coconut rice is a standout example. Duino is connected by an internal door to the Radio Bean bar, so check the music lineup before settling in for dinner.
Taiwanese chef Duval brings her fresh, local approach to cooking classic and regional Chinese dishes at this excellent restaurant, A Single Pebble (133 Bank St., 802/865-5200, www.asinglepebble.com, dim sum 11:30am-1:45pm Sun.; lunch 11:30am-1:45pm Mon.-Fri., 11:30am-3pm Sat.; dinner 5pm-late daily, $10-25), to ongoing acclaim. This is a favorite for special occasions and holidays, and the mock eel is legendary.
In the Old North End neighborhood, Scout & Co. (237 North Ave., www.scoutandcompanyvt.com, 7am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-6pm Sat.-Sun.) serves excellent espresso alongside creative house-made ice cream in an airy space equipped with a browsing library of esoteric cookbooks.
A welcome exception to the lack of budget options downtown, the no-frills Burlington Hostel (50 Main St., 802/540-3043, www.theburlingtonhostel.com, May-Oct., $44-60 per person) is clean, safe, and walking distance from everything. Three of the eight-bed dorms are single gender, and several four-bed dorms are set aside for groups and families. There’s Wi-Fi and a public computer, and weekly rates are available.
In a sweet residential neighborhood overlooking the lake, One of a Kind BNB (53 Lakeview Terrace, 802/862-5576, www.oneofakindbnb.com, $175-275) is still walking distance from downtown. The owner, artist Maggie Sherman, has thoughtfully renovated the home, and the relaxed breakfasts are full of local options. There’s no television or air-conditioning, but there is a friendly cat, an excellent garden, and a backyard tree swing.
The Willard Street Inn (349 S. Willard St., 802/651-8710, www.willardstreetinn.com, $150-265) is as beautiful inside as it is outside; the sprawling Victorian manse lays claim to impeccably decorated rooms. Each is filled with thoughtful details—a hand-carved antique chest here, a gas fireplace with antique mosaic tile there. Terry bathrobes and a full breakfast served in the marble-floored solarium come with every stay. Children over 12 are welcome.
The newest, chicest digs in town are surely at S Hotel Vermont (41 Cherry St., 802/651-0080, www.hotelvt.com, from $275), an urban oasis that blends a rustic aesthetic with Scandinavian-influenced modern style. From woolly blankets to rough-hewn granite, seemingly everything you touch here is sourced regionally and with beautiful taste. The friendly staff includes a beer concierge and an outdoor activities director, and there are bicycles, snowshoes, and even an ice fishing shack available for guest use.
Made INN Vermont (204 S. Willard St., 802/399-2788, www.madeinnvermont.com, from $230) is perched on a hill above downtown, a bed-and-breakfast that’s a temple of curated quirk with artistic flair and a contemporary sensibility. Owner Linda Wolf has filled her historical home with curiosities and comforts, and rooms are stocked with cans of Heady Topper, chalkboard walls, and views of the lake below. Atop the peaked roof and equipped with a telescope, the enclosed widow’s walk is where you can watch stars and sails drift by. Breakfast is sumptuous. And well-behaved pets are welcome.
With a prime location by the lake and the bike path, North Beach Campground (60 Institute Rd., 802/862-0942, www.enjoyburlington.com, tent sites $37, hookups $41-45) is also just two miles north of downtown, making it an excellent base for exploring the city.
The Lake Champlain Chamber of Commerce (877/686-5253, www.vermont.org) runs an information booth (9am-9pm daily, mid May-mid Oct.) during summer months on Church Street at the corner of Bank Street. Also look for a copy of the Blue Map (www.bluemap.com), a detailed tourist map of downtown and the Greater Burlington Area.
For emergency and hospital services, head to Fletcher Allen Hospital (Colchester Ave., 802/847-0000), but Vermont Children’s Hospital (111 Colchester Ave., 802/847-5437) is equipped to handle younger patients’ needs. Fill prescriptions at Lakeside Pharmacy (242 Pearl St., 802/862-1491, www.lakerx.org, 8:30am-7pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-3pm Sat.) or Rite Aid (158 Cherry St., 802/862-1562, 8am-9pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-6pm Sat., 9am-5pm Sun.), which also offers faxing services and has a second location (1024 North Ave., 802/865-7822). A handful of banks are in the downtown blocks of Burlington’s retail area along Church Street. In that same area, ATMs seem to be on every block. In nonmedical emergencies, contact the headquarters for the Burlington Police Department (1 North Ave., 802/658-2704).
Internet access is offered at almost all cafés and at the Fletcher Free Library (235 College St., 802/863-3403, www.fletcherfree.org, 10am-6pm Mon. and Thurs.-Sat., 10am-8pm Tues.-Wed., noon-6pm Sun.). FedEx Office Center (199 Main St., 802/658-2561, 6am-midnight Mon.-Fri., 8am-9pm Sat., 9am-9pm Sun.) also offers fax services and shipping services.
Burlington is on I-89, and flights from many major cities land at Burlington International Airport (BTV, 1200 Airport Dr., South Burlington, 802/865-7571, www.btv.aero), which is served by half a dozen airlines. Reservation desks for major rental car companies are available at the airport.
Amtrak (800/872-7245, www.amtrak.com) sells tickets for trains to Burlington, but the station is 20 minutes away in Essex Junction (29 Railroad Ave., Essex Junction). Greyhound Bus Lines (800/231-2222, www.greyhound.com) runs buses to Burlington from Montreal and Boston that arrive at the airport, and Megabus (www.us.megabus.com) has regular service to several cities around the Northeast, including Boston and New York City.
Green Mountain Transit (802/864-2282, www.ridegmt.org) has bus routes throughout Burlington and the surrounding area, including buses downtown from the airport and train station. Bus fare is $1.25. Taxi stands are also available at the airport and the train station; to call a cab from other locations, contact Green Cab VT (802/864-2424, www.greencabvt.com). Burlington is also served by Uber (www.uber.com) and Lyft (www.lyft.com), mobile-app services connecting riders with private drivers/vehicles, but coverage is less complete than in bigger cities.
From New York, it’s possible to get to Burlington via ferry from Port Kent. Several boats a day are run by Lake Champlain Transportation (King Street Dock, 802/864-9804, www.ferries.com, mid-June-late Sept., $8 adults, $3.10 children, children under 6 free, $30 vehicle and driver one-way), which take about an hour to cross the lake. The round-trip threading through the lake’s islands is also one of the most economical ways to enjoy Champlain’s scenery.
A sweet cluster of inns and shops, it would be easy to miss Shelburne entirely, but beyond the picturesque downtown is a gracious landscape of well-kept farms and vineyards. The sprawling Shelburne Farms is a grand example of a historic agricultural estate, with walking trails and barns, and Shelburne Museum is a trove of art and ephemera. And even without visiting the major sites, it’s a pleasant place to spend a fall day picking apples and tasting wine.
Shelburne Farms (1611 Harbor Rd., 802/985-8686, www.shelburnefarms.org, 9am-5:30pm daily mid-May-Oct., $8 adults, $6 seniors, $5 children 3-17, children under 3 free) is a bewitching property that’s a wonderful stop for a stroll through the wooded paths and rolling farm fields, past elegant barns with patinated copper roofs. The farm was the country retreat of the Webb family, and if you find it inspires hazy historical fantasies about roaming the estate with members of the American aristocracy and their glamorous guests, you’re not the only one.
Shelburne Farms’ head cheesemaker, Kate Turcotte
These days, though, you’re more likely to bump into school kids than scions, as Shelburne Farms is now a nonprofit that works for sustainability in the food system. All income from the property goes to education and conservation efforts, including those from the inn and on-site restaurant. Sights change with the season: Spring means maple sugaring and lambing, and you can bundle up for horse-drawn sleigh rides in the winter. The on-site cheese-making operation is active year-round, however.
The Shelburne Museum (5555 Shelburne Rd., 802/985-3346, www.shelburnemuseum.org, 10am-5pm daily May-Dec., 10am-5pm Wed.-Sun. Jan.-Apr., $24 adults, $14 youth 13-17, $12 children 5-12, children under 5 free, $58 family day pass, Nov.-Apr. $10 adults, $5 youth 5-17, children under 5 free) is less a museum than a city-state founded by a hoarder with exquisite taste. Its 38 buildings are full of extraordinary art and historical gewgaws, not to mention a Lake Champlain steamship and its own covered bridge. This is the work of art collector Electra Havemeyer Webb, who relocated buildings from across the country to display her collection, opening the museum in 1947. The buildings are as intriguing as their contents, and include a 19th-century jailhouse, a Methodist meetinghouse, and a beautifully restored round barn, one of just two dozen built in Vermont. While the entire campus is open from May through October, access to limited exhibits is now possible from November through April.
Webb’s own home was a Greek Revival mansion that now holds first-rate paintings by Cassatt, Degas, Monet, Corot, and Manet, including the first impressionist painting brought to America, a Monet painting of a drawbridge, which Webb purchased in Paris for $20.
Shelburne Orchards (216 Orchard Rd., 802/985-2743, www.shelburneorchards.com, 9am-6pm Mon.-Sat., 9am-5pm Sun. late Aug.-late Oct.) is lined with undulating rows of trees that produce over a dozen varieties of apples, and it’s a marvelous experience to visit in the early fall when the air is heavy with the scent of ripe fruit. The trees keep their own timetables, so before coming to pick fruit, call ahead to see what’s available.
The Vermont Teddy Bear Company (6655 Shelburne Rd./Rte. 7, 802/985-3001, www.vermontteddybear.com, 9am-6pm daily mid-June-early Sept., 9am-5pm daily early Sept.-mid-Oct., 10am-2pm daily mid-Oct.-mid-June, tours $4 adults, $3 seniors, children 12 and under free) succeeds at a challenging task—to display the mechanics of a production-oriented toy factory while infusing the process with creativity and magic. Even for nonbelievers, the company does a darn good job, and there’s little point in resisting the charm. The gift shop is stocked with bears and bear things, from children’s books to artwork and tiny gift boxes of “bear poo.” Or you can create your own toy at the Make a Friend for Life station, where you select a bear body, then fill it with fluff from a machine whose settings include Joy, Giggles, and Imagination.
Past performers at the Concerts on the Green (5555 Shelburne Rd., 802/985-3346, www.shelburnemuseum.org) music series include Willie Nelson, Emmylou Harris, and Crosby, Stills, and Nash. Musicians play on select summer weekends on the grounds of the Shelburne Museum.
Shelburne Farms hosts the annual Vermont Cheesemakers Festival (1611 Harbor Rd., 802/986-8686, www.vtcheesefest.com, late July), where you can sample the state’s best wedges all in one place. Along with ample time to graze, the festival includes cheese-making demos, cooking demos, and workshops.
You can find something to read by the lake at The Flying Pig Bookstore (5247 Shelburne Rd., 802/985-3999, www.flyingpigbooks.com, 10am-6pm Mon.-Sat., noon-5pm Sun.), which has a wide range of general-interest books and an excellent children’s section.
The main attraction for walkers in Shelburne are the wonderful trails at Shelburne Farms, but a great alternative is the hike up Mount Philo, a low-lying peak that has views of the surrounding countryside. The 1.9-mile Mount Philo Trail loops up to the summit from the parking area of Mount Philo State Park (5425 Mount Philo Rd., Charlotte, 802/425-2390, www.vtstateparks.com/philo.html, $4 adults, $2 children), and there’s also a road to the top.
As renowned for the food as for the setting, the Inn at Shelburne Farms is worth a trip to the area—from maple syrup to lamb, the inn’s kitchen uses many ingredients that are produced onsite, and the menu changes with the unfolding summer season. Dinners are spectacular, but stopping by for breakfast is a good way to experience the inn without splashing out for an expensive treat… and the inn’s light-as-a-feather scones are a local legend. Shelburne has a handful of restaurants clustered in the downtown area, but it’s worth heading to the southern edge of town to find Folino’s Pizza (6305 Shelburne Rd., 802/881-8822, www.folinopizza.com, noon-9pm daily, $10-18), which serves crisp, wood-fired pizza with views of the vineyard next door. Try the rhapsody-inspiring flatbread with bacon, scallops, and lemon zest. Folino’s is strictly BYO, but it’s got a freezer full of pint glasses and shares a building with Fiddlehead Brewing (802/399-2994, www.fiddleheadbrewing.com, noon-9pm Sun.-Fri., 11am-9pm Sat.), which offers free tastings of its beers on tap as well as growler and growlette fills.
Right across the street is Shelburne Vineyard (6308 Shelburne Rd., 802/982-8222, www.shelburnevinyard.com, 11am-6pm daily May-Oct., 11am-5pm daily Nov.-Apr.), where the $7 tastings include a souvenir wineglass and a taste of 8-10 wines. Don’t miss the award-winning Marquette Reserve.
In the village center, Rustic Roots (195 Falls Rd., 802/985-9511, www.rusticrootsvt.com, brunch 9am-3pm Wed.-Sun., dinner 6pm-7:30pm Fri.-Sat., $14-25) serves thoughtful food with European flair in a restored home, using many local ingredients. For a coffee with something sweet, Village Wine and Coffee (5288 Shelburne Rd., 802/985-8922, www.villagewineandcoffee.com, 7am-6pm Mon.-Sat., 8:30am-4pm Sun.) is a favorite stop by the town’s main intersection.
The gorgeously preserved S Inn at Shelburne Farms (1611 Harbor Rd., 802/985-8498, www.shelburnefarms.org, May-Oct., $160-525) is situated right on the lake and may have the best sunset views in the Champlain Valley. The inn’s restaurant prepares beautiful meals with ingredients grown organically on-site.
Tucked into a sweet Victorian in the center of town, Heart of the Village Inn (5347 Shelburne Rd., 802/985-9060, www.heartofthevillage.com, $220-400) charms with thoughtful touches like locally made chocolates. The homemade breakfasts are sumptuous, with hot and cold options available daily.
The Shelburne Museum (5555 Shelburne Rd., 802/985-3346, www.shelburnemuseum.org, 10am-5pm daily May-Dec., 10am-5pm Wed.-Sun. Jan.-Apr.) has a visitor information center stocked with maps and brochures; no admission fee is required.
A Rite Aid Pharmacy (30 Shelburne Shopping Park, 802/985-2610, 9am-6pm Mon.-Sat. for both store and pharmacy) is located in the center of downtown. In an emergency, contact the Shelburne Police (5420 Shelburne Rd., 802/985-8051).
Shelburne is on Route 7, a two-lane highway that runs parallel to Lake Champlain. Green Mountain Transit (802/864-2282, www.ridegmt.org) has frequent bus service between Burlington and Shelburne Monday-Saturday, with stops at the Shelburne Museum and Vermont Teddy Bear Company.