York Beach
Ogunquit Coast.
Look for S to find recommended sights, activities, dining, and lodging.
S Portland Museum of Art: This excellent museum houses an extensive collection of impressionist and American art, including nautical themed paintings by Winslow Homer (click here).
S Popham Beach State Park: Stretch out on a dreamy swatch of sand, or plot a low-tide walk across the flats to tiny Fox Island (click here).
S Lobster Feast: Dig into great piles of steamed lobster and clams and get a taste of Maine (click here).
S Pemaquid Point Light: Every rocky peninsula and outcropping’s got its very own lighthouse, from hidden gems to crowd favorites (click here).
S Farnsworth Art Museum: See the Maine coast through the eyes of the state’s most beloved painter, Andrew Wyeth, who captured the moods and melancholy of Penobscot Bay and beyond (click here).
Trace a route along Maine’s 3,500-mile waterfront, and you’ll find fishing towns, far-flung beaches, and one of New England’s most vibrant small cities.
Within day-tripping distance from Boston, the south coast is a classic vacation getaway for city crowds who come to sail and socialize in grand seaside inns. This is the pinnacle of Maine beach chic, with perfect sand, gentle surf breaks, and elegant waterside dining. A few lighthouses up the coast, Portland is the cultural capital of the state, with a fabulous setting and quality of life that draw creative talent from around the country. Framed by a pair of scenic parks, downtown overflows with boat-to-table restaurants, microbreweries, and art.
After Portland, the shoreline goes wild, fracturing into deep coves and bays; proud shipwright towns stand back from the sea on tidal rivers that sent merchant vessels and warships to every corner of the globe. Roads to the shore dead-end at seasonal lobster shacks where you can dine “in the rough” as fishers unload the day’s catch.
From Rockland’s working waterfront to pretty Camden, the towns lining Penobscot Bay are home to lobster-boat captains, sailors, and summer people, and their harbors shelter grand old schooners and elegant luxury yachts. This is the beginning of Down East, the far stretch of the Maine coast that extends to the most easterly point in the United States. From Penobscot Bay, the coast gets increasingly remote, the towns divided by long passages of deep forest and rugged shoreline leading onward to the scenic jewel of Acadia National Park.
Even more than other destinations in New England, the true high season in Maine is during schools’ summer vacation, when families descend on beaches in hordes. Visiting in late June or late August offers the best weather without the crowds, though many locals say September is the finest month, with still-warm days and cooler nights. At any time of year, however, the weather can be unpredictable, and Maine can seemingly pass through multiple seasons in a single day, with sunshine giving way to fog and rain before turning again.
Experiencing the highlights of coastal Maine takes at least a week, especially when summer crowds turn Route 1 into a series of bottlenecks. Allot this much time and you can take in the region in a series of clusters (with less time, perhaps focus on one, and avoid Route 1 when possible for expediency).
Spend a couple of days exploring south coast lighthouses, beaches, and restaurants from the Kennebunks—Kennebunkport and Kennebunk—or Portland, with time to visit the outdoors or go outlet shopping in Freeport. Make your second destination one of the towns of Maine’s Mid-Coast, such as Brunswick, Bath, Wiscasset, and Damariscotta. Plenty of museums and historic downtowns are along Route 1, but don’t miss the chance to get off the main road, following quiet highways to island communities and seaside lobster shacks.
After making its way through inland forests, Route 1 finds the coast in Penobscot Bay, where a trio of wonderful towns is perched on picturesque harbors: Rockland, Rockport, and Camden are ideal places to trade your car for a kayak or a berth on a historic schooner and explore the islands dotting the coast.
Perched just before the coastline crumbles into a squiggly line of bays and peninsulas, Portland is the cosmopolitan hub and gateway to Maine’s endless shoreline. Beyond the city, other destinations on the Maine coast lie along Route 1, a two-lane highway lined with banks of wildflowers and thick forest. Traffic slows to a crawl in each of the towns along the way, where coastal roads sheer off into fishing villages and deep inlets.
A beach-lover’s utopia, this region more than doubles its population in summer—and for good reason. Its shoreline is peppered with craggy beaches boasting soft sand and unforgettable sunsets, nature preserves, and bird and wildlife sanctuaries.
But there are plenty of man-made reasons to visit, too. The area was originally settled not two decades after the Mayflower hit Plymouth Rock, and that shows in its pervasive sense of history, from Kennebunkport’s 17th-century homes to Kittery’s old naval museums. More modern treasures are abundant, too, from Kennebunk’s clam shacks to the antiques shops of Wells, the cafés and top-notch restaurants of Ogunquit, and the bargain outlets of Kittery. June-October, the region’s streets get congested with vacationing families and urbanites; the best times to soak up the area’s pleasures are in early to mid-autumn.
Just across the Piscataqua River from downtown Portsmouth, Kittery is mostly a destination for shoppers—there’s a massive collection of outlet stores and malls sprawling along Route 1. If you’re looking for classic Maine, keep heading up the coast, but Kittery’s got a few interesting spots beyond the bargain-seeking mayhem, including a small naval museum that explores the town’s seafaring past. For a pleasant drive that feels a world away from Route 1, simply duck off the main road onto Route 103, which winds through coast and forest on the scenic route to York Harbor.
Nautical buffs ought not miss the Kittery Historical and Naval Museum (200 Rogers Rd. Extension, 207/439-3080, www.kitterymuseum.com, 10am-4pm Wed.-Sat., 1pm-4pm Sun. June-Oct., $5 adults, $3 children 7-15, children under 7 free, $10 families,), full of seafaring gear, loads of intricate scrimshaw, ship models, and a collection of painted seascapes.
Armed and ready through the colonial period, the American Revolution, the War of 1812, the Civil War, and the Spanish American War, Fort McClary (Rte. 103, Kittery Point, 207/490-4079, www.fortmcclary.org, 10am-sunset daily Memorial Day-Columbus Day, $4 adults, $1 seniors) is perfectly situated to protect the Portsmouth Harbor from naval attacks, but these days it’s mostly a good spot for a walk, or a picnic with views across the water to the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard.
You can’t miss Kittery Outlets (306 Rte. 1, 207/439-4367, www.thekitteryoutlets.com, 9am-9pm daily), where more than 120 stores draw bargain-minded shoppers from around the region, and which shouldn’t be confused with the adjacent Kittery Premium Outlets (375 Rte. 1, 207/439-6548, www.premiumoutlets.com, 9am-9pm daily), which has a somewhat fancier selection of stores.
If you’re headed to the beach or on a hike, grab picnic fixings at Beach Pea Baking Co. (53 Rte. 1, 207/439-3555, www.beachpeabaking.com, 7:30am-6pm daily, $6-9), where all breads are fresh-baked and sandwiches are overstuffed and made-to-order. There’s also a tempting pastry case filled with tarts, cookies, and other treats.
An old-school favorite for seafood from the fryer, Bob’s Clam Hut (315 Rte. 1, 207/439-4233, www.bobsclamhut.com, 11am-9pm Sun.-Thurs., 11am-9:30pm Fri.-Sat., $7-29) serves enormous portions of fried whole belly clams, beautifully tender haddock, and a very respectable creamy chowder.
Kittery’s version of “lobster in the rough,” where the seafood is served outdoors and with minimal fuss, is Chauncey Creek Lobster Pier (16 Chauncey Creek Rd., Kittery Point, 207/439-1030, www.chaunceycreek.com, 11am-8pm daily, $8-35), with bright picnic tables at the edge of a peaceful river. Make like the locals and bring your own beer, wine, and side dishes, then pick a lobster from the tank (it’s worth noting that lobsters tend to be a bit pricier here than more far-flung destinations).
The pet-friendly Coachman Inn (380 Rte. 1, 800/824-6183, www.coachmaninn.net, $120-200) is a basic motel that’s a good alternative to pricier accommodations in neighboring Portsmouth and York. It’s walking distance from the Kittery outlets and several fast-food chains, and there’s a useful family suite, with a pair of twin beds in the second bedroom. A basic continental breakfast is served in the lobby, and fully accessible rooms are available upon request.
With views across the Piscataqua River, the S Portsmouth Harbor Inn & Spa (6 Water St., 207/439-4040, www.innatportsmouth.com, $150-250) is an inviting place to land, as well as a good base for visiting Portsmouth, which is just 0.5 mile away. Rooms are simple and decorated in fresh colors, and wonderful breakfasts are served in the communal dining room. The inn is nicely equipped for a day in, as well, with DVDs, board games, and a long menu of spa treatments.
Kittery is located on Route 1, across the bridge from Portsmouth, and just under an hour from Portland. Greyhound (214/849-8966, www.greyhound.com) has regular buses to Kittery from Portland (1 hr., $19); to reach Kittery from the south, travel to Portsmouth then hop a COAST bus (603/743-5777, www.coastbus.org) across the bridge.
Picture-perfect Maine village meets sunburned Vacationland in The Yorks, made up of the adorable York Village, the carnival atmosphere at York Beach, and the more sedate York Harbor and Cape Neddick. Confused? Just call it “The Yorks” and forget about it—it’s all of three miles from one end to the other.
First settled by colonists in 1624, York chugged along as a modest seaside town until the 19th century, when it earned a reputation as a posh coastal vacation spot. Among the towns of Maine’s southern coast, this is among the best choices for families with young children.
Otherwise known locally as Nubble Light, the stark-white Cape Neddick Light (Nubble Rd., Rte. 1A, off Short Sand Beach, York Beach, 207/363-1040, www.lighthouse.cc/capeneddick) and rocky grounds are a favorite with photographers, as it’s easy to capture dramatic shots with a big sweep of ocean and sky. The lighthouse itself is on a small, rocky island some dozen yards off the coast, and is off-limits to the public. Viewers congregate on the grounds of Sohier Park (Nubble Rd., York) instead, snacking on ice cream, scrambling over the rocks, or just gazing past the lighthouse to the horizon.
Small and meticulous, York Village is a historian’s dream, filled with colonial homes, a library and schoolhouse, and a cemetery. Many landmarks are open for tours through the Old York Historical Society (3 Lindsay Rd., York, 207/363-4974, www.oldyork.org, 10am-5pm Tues.-Sat., 1pm-5pm Sun. late May-early Sept., 10am-5pm Thurs.-Sat., 1pm-5pm Sun. early Sept.-mid-Oct., all-day/one site tickets $15/8 adults, $10/5 children under 16). Start at the historical society, where you can purchase tickets and pick up a map of town, then walk to the landmarks, many of which are staffed by local docents.
Easily walkable from the shops and restaurants that line Route 1A, Long Sands Beach is a 1.5-mile stretch of pale sand that invites daylong beach planet sessions. Bring quarters for the metered parking that’s available along the waterfront—it’s $1 per hour south of Sun and Surf Restaurant (264 Rte. 1A), and $2 per hour north of the restaurant. Sheltered from the wind by Cape Neddick, the beach is among the best around for surfing, with (often) gentle waves that are good for beginning riders. Rent a board and 3/2 wetsuit from Liquid Dreams Surf Shop (171 Long Beach Ave., 207/351-2545, www.liquiddreamssurf.com, 8am-8pm daily, rentals $8 per hour, $20 half day), which also offers surf lessons (2-hour group lessons $70, private $105, includes board and wetsuit). During the hours of 9am-5pm Memorial Day-Labor Day, surfing is limited to the marked “surf zone,” but it’s a free-for-all after hours or in the off-season.
A quarter mile of sand between the cliffs in York, Short Sands Beach is a favorite with young families, who love the sheltered water and adjoining playground. Every handful of years, rough tides will expose a historic shipwreck that’s (mostly) buried beneath the sand here, thought to be a “pinky,” a maneuverable square-rigged fishing boat that was popular along the coast in the 18th century. If you’re lucky enough to see the ship appear, keep your distance, as it’s considered an archaeological site. Parking in the on-site lot is $1 per hour, though it’s worth arriving early during the summer months if you’re hoping for a spot.
Both of the beaches are on the route of the Beach Trolley (207/363-9600, www.yorktrolley.com, $4), making this a great spot to park the car for the day and explore on foot.
No pilgrimage to Nubble Light is complete without a stop off at Dunne’s Ice Cream (214 Nubble Rd., York Beach, 207/363-1277, noon-9pm daily), formerly known as Brown’s Ice Cream, whose enormous list of flavors includes New England treats like Maine blueberry, Indian pudding, and Maine whoopie pie.
The other classic stop for vacation food is Flo’s Hot Dogs (1359 Rte. 1, Cape Neddick, www.floshotdogs.com, 11am-3pm Thurs.-Tues., $2-5), an unassuming little shack at the edge of Route 1. Like the sign says, though, Flo’s has “the most famous hot dogs with hot sauce on Route 1 from Maine to Key West,” and there’s often a line—locals say the secret is in the tasty relish that tops the “house special,” along with mayonnaise and celery salt. Cash only.
Tucked in a basement with a nautical theme, the Ship’s Cellar Pub (480 York St., York, 207/363-5119, www.yorkharborinn.com, 11:30am-11:30pm Mon.-Thurs., 11:30am-midnight Fri.-Sat., 3pm-11:30pm Sun., $24-35) is a cozy spot to while away an evening over classic dishes like broiled scallops or seafood pie. All portholes and glossy wood, it’s the next best thing to dinner on a boat, and the pub has frequent live music during the busy months, as well as a popular happy hour 4pm-6pm weeknights.
With a welcome emphasis on fresh ingredients and preparations, S Frankie & Johnny’s (1594 Rte. 1, Cape Neddick, 207/363-1909, www.frankie-johnnys.com, 5pm-9pm Thurs.-Sun., $27-40) has beautiful vegan and vegetarian options on an eclectic menu that pulls from all over the globe. Meat eaters rave about the rack of lamb and the chicken piccata, and even the house salad impresses with a rainbow of veg. Cash and reservations only; bring-your-own beer and wine.
No frills but with an unbeatable location, Seaturn Motel (55 Longbeach Ave., York, 207/363-5137, www.seaturnmotel.com, $95-245) offers a clean, tidy place to recover from trips to the beach, which is right across the street. Rooms are compact, but stocked with a mini fridge and microwave, and rates include parking on-site. Oh, and there’s a pool.
In a quiet spot that’s still walking distance to Long Sands Beach, S The Lighthouse Inn & Carriage House (20 Nubble Rd., York Beach, 207/363-6072, www.thelighthouseinn.com, $89-199) is a great base for exploring the Yorks, with a pool and hot tub to retreat from the crowded beach. Decor is bright and updated, and the thoughtful owners supply extras like “beach wagons,” so you can hit the sand with all your gear. Rates include an above-par continental breakfast.
Staking out its own peninsula, the Stage Neck Inn (8 Stage Neck Rd., York, 207/363-3850, www.stageneck.com, $175-450) has a small private beach, with lots of cozy places to watch the ocean rise and fall. There are tennis courts and walking paths on-site, and rates include an ample, if forgettable, self-serve buffet breakfast.
Exclusively for RVs and trailers, Libby’s Oceanside Camp (725 York St., York, 207/363-4171, www.libbysoceancamping.com, sites with hook-ups $60-100) looks right out over the water, with picnic tables and fire pits that are perfect for long ocean sunsets. The Beach Trolley passes right by, so you can leave your rig parked and explore on foot. Adjacent to the bridge between York and Ogunquit, Cape Neddick Oceanside Campground (63 Shore Dr., Cape Neddick, 207/363-4366, 2-person tent sites $41) has tightly packed spaces with some shade, reasonably clean facilities with coin-operated showers, and a pleasantly rocky waterfront to explore.
The Yorks are linked by Route 1A, paralleled by both Route 1 and I-95. While Route 1A is indisputably the scenic route, it can get terribly clogged during the summer season, so expect delays. If at all possible, it’s worth parking your car and getting around on the Beach Trolley (207/363-9600, www.yorktrolley.com, $4), which links up many of the towns’ sites and beaches. There is currently no bus or train transport to York.
Neighboring Ogunquit and Wells used to be a single town, until a knock-down, drag-out fight about streetlights caused the people of Ogunquit to rise up and secede. Things have simmered down since then, and the two towns have distinctive personalities—Ogunquit’s gorgeous beachfront has become a favorite escape for New England’s LGBT community, while Wells moves at a more relaxed pace, with nature preserves that ramble through pine forest and salt marsh.
That 1980 secession vote aside, it’s really a nice combination. Ogunquit has a party scene that doesn’t quit all summer, and sunny days bring a crowd to the three-mile sandy beach. Just up the coast, then, the Rachel Carson National Wildlife Refuge is a welcome break, with plenty of walking trails and paddling for afternoons of exploring.
The 1.25-mile paved walking path that skims Ogunquit’s harbor was bequeathed to the town in 1923, winding from Ogunquit beach to a rocky cove. It’s a dramatic walk, with crashing surf to one side and salt-kissed coastal plants to the other. Bayberry bushes and roses, in white and seemingly every shade of pink, perfume the path in summertime, when it’s one of Ogunquit’s most popular destinations.
Known in its early days as Fish Cove, this stubby peninsula was once the focal point of the area’s fishing and trade industry—one holdover from the era is a footbridge that cranks up and down to allow ships to pass beneath. These days it’s pure vacationland, with art galleries, chowder houses, gift shops, and studios, all with lovely views of the water. This is the place to pick up salt water taffy and watch the lobster boats come and go—preferably early or late in the day, when the area isn’t so crowded. Parking can be difficult in busy summer months, so it’s worth parking downtown and catching a trolley to the cove.
Perkins Cove
This jewel of a museum, the Ogunquit Museum of American Art (542 Shore Rd., 207/646-4909, www.ogunquitmuseum.org, 10am-5pm daily, $10 adults, $9 seniors and students, children under 12 free) is displayed like a work of art, perched on a cliff above the ocean. The temporary exhibits often feature some of Maine’s great painters like Andrew Wyeth and Rockwell Kent, and the permanent collection includes a beautifully chosen selection of watercolors, oils, sculpture, and drawings. Save some time to see the outdoor sculpture garden.
Stretching 50 miles along the coast, the remarkable Rachel Carson National Wildlife Refuge protects salt marshes and estuaries that are essential for the migratory birds that travel the Atlantic seaboard on their yearly journeys. Stop by the refuge’s visitors center (321 Port Wells Rd., Wells, 207/646-9226, www.fws.gov, office hours 8am-4:30pm Mon.-Fri.) to learn about the wildlife that thrives here, then hike the mile-long Carson Trail, which has a series of overlooks across the salt marsh, with signs that explore local species and conservation.
The adjacent Wells Reserve (342 Laudholm Farm Rd., Wells, 207/646-1555, www.wellsreserve.org, 7am-sunset daily, $5 adults, $1 children 6-16, children under 6 free) is smaller, but has more ways to get around. A network of trails extends from the main entrance through the forest and salt marshes to Laudholm Beach, which narrows to a sliver at high tide, then widens into an expanse of nubbly rocks and tidepools. There are guided walks on many days, covering themes from the intertidal zone to the history of waterfront farming in Maine.
Ogunquit’s crowning glory is the 3.5-mile-long Ogunquit Beach (Beach St., Ogunquit, parking $4 per hour, $30 per day), among New England’s very finest. Soft sand is fringed by low dunes on a long peninsula that runs between the sea and the Ogunquit River. The southern end of the beach is the main access point, but there’s also parking and an access road at the opposite end, called North Beach (Ocean Ave., Ogunquit, parking $4 per hour, $25 per day), which tends to be a bit quieter. There are bathroom facilities at both ends.
On the other side of the town line, Wells’s beaches hold their own. The main destination is Wells Beach (Atlantic Ave., Wells, parking $12 half day, $20 full day), a long, sandy stretch that’s popular with families and has lifeguards and restroom facilities in several locations. (If you can find a spot, there’s free parking for Wells Beach at the ocean end of Mile Road, near Forbes Restaurant.) For fewer crowds and a bit more distance from the downtown shops, head to Drake’s Island Beach (Island Beach Rd., Wells, parking $12 half day, $20 full day), which also has lifeguards and restrooms.
Excellent coffee and pastries make Bread and Roses Bakery (246 Main St., 207/646-4227, www.breadandrosesbakery.com, 7am-9pm daily, $2-7) a favorite for breakfast, but it’s an equally worthwhile stop for picnic sandwiches. If you haven’t tried pie made from wild Maine blueberries, this is the perfect place to get initiated.
Eat outside a little flotsam-covered shack at Beach Plum Lobster Farm (615 Main St., 207/646-7277, 9am-7pm daily, $5-25), which keeps it simple with lobsters and steamers (clams) served alongside corn on the cob and copious melted butter. Call ahead and the shop will package up your order to go, the fixings for a pretty luxe seaside picnic.
The food at S The Front Porch Piano Bar & Restaurant (9 Shore Rd., 207/646-4005, www.thefrontporch.com, 5pm-11pm daily, bar open late, $13-38) is every bit as good as it needs to be—think solid entrées like baked salmon, steak, and hearty salads. But the real draw is the piano bar atmosphere, which invites increasingly raucous show tune sing-alongs as the night wears on. There are no reservations at this popular spot, but you can call 45 minutes ahead to get your name on the waiting list.
The classic seafood at Fisherman’s Catch (134 Harbor Rd., 207/646-8780, www.fishermanscatchwells.com, 11:30am-9pm daily, $7-20) keeps it bustling through the summer months, when diners gather around picnic tables on the restaurant’s large, screened-in porch. The restaurant has all the usual orders, but the chowder and the blueberry pie win raves.
Meet local policemen (or local anyone, for that matter) at Congdon’s Doughnuts (1090 Post Rd., 207/646-4219, www.congdons.com, 6am-2pm daily, $2-9), which has been slinging vast quantities of the sweet treats since 1945. There’s also a hearty breakfast and lunch menu, including some of the best breakfast sandwiches in town.
Set in a charming 18th-century house, S Joshua’s (1637 Post Rd., 207/646-3355, www.joshuas.biz, 5pm-10pm daily, $27-35) creates special meals using locally sourced ingredients, and is a wonderful choice for an evening out. The menu changes frequently, but always features some good vegetarian options, as well as truly phenomenal crab cakes.
An impeccable budget option that’s a fabulous deal in the shoulder season, Towne Lyne Motel (747 Main St., Ogunquit, 207/646-2955, www.townelynemotel.com, $69-214) is right on the trolley line, making it an easy spot for hitting the beach or the town. Rooms are stocked with fridges, microwaves, and coffeemakers, and updated bathrooms and decor make this a cut above the average motel.
The welcoming Dragonfly Guest House (254 Shore Rd., Ogunquit, 207/216-4848, www.dragonflyguesthouse.com, $125-275) is walking distance from Perkins Cove, Marginal Way, and the beach, but still manages to feel relaxed in the heart of the summer season. Perks include afternoon cookies and a great breakfast, and the bed-and-breakfast runs frequent specials with discounted massages and theater tickets.
Pet-friendly and simple, The Beaches Motel & Cottages (773 Post Rd., Wells, 207/216-4065, www.beachesofmaine.com, motel rooms $55-145, 6-person cottages $74-245) has adorably vintage cottages that are a short drive from the beach. The tidy grounds include a pool, a barbecue area, and a fire pit that’s perfect for evenings under the stars.
Less than a mile from the shore, Beach Acres Tent Sites & Park (563 Post Rd., Wells, 207/646-5612, www.beachacres.com, tents $40, hookups $45-54) is spacious, if not particularly private, and its location on the trolley route makes it a good place for exploring car free. A pool, picnic tables, playgrounds, and barbecue facilities make this a popular choice for families.
Ogunquit and Wells are located on Route 1, about 50 minutes south of Portland. The Amtrak Downeaster (800/872-7245, www.amtrakdowneaster.com) stops in Wells on the route between Boston and Portland, and there’s also a Greyhound (800/231-2222, www.greyhound.com, service from Portland $15, Boston $30) station in town.
During the summer season, the Shoreline Explorer (207/459-2932, www.shorelineexplorer.com) trolley links up the main sites and beaches, making this an appealing place to visit without a car. Taxi service is available from Brewster’s Taxi & Travel Services (201/646-2141).
The two towns that make up southern Maine’s toniest seaside destination—Kennebunk and Kennebunkport—are filled with luxurious inns that turn platoons of beach chairs toward the sea. A great, sweeping curve of beach in Kennebunk is one of the best on the southern coast, with plentiful sand and sunrise views of the bay. And the Kennebunk River, a spidering tidal waterway that divides the pretty villages, also offers places to swim and sit away from the blustering waves of the sea.
While the Kennebunks’ reputation is for blue bloods and well-heeled preppies (an image bolstered by the presence of the bi-presidential Bush clan in an eye-catching compound on Ocean Avenue), it’s not much more expensive than destinations up the coast. Streets are lined with old-fashioned colonial and federal homes, the whitewashed facades and bright shutters of which are classic New England. Ways to get on the water here include helming a sailboat, paddling into knee-high rollers on a surfboard, or searching for whales on the offshore banks—this is among the best places in the state for spotting them.
You won’t find the usual local historical paraphernalia at the Brick Store Museum (117 Main St., Kennebunk, 207/985-4802, www.brickstoremuseum.org, 10am-5pm Tues. and Thurs.-Fri., 10am-8pm Wed., 10am-4pm Sat., noon-4pm Sun., $7 adults, $6 seniors, $3 children 6-16, $20 families). Instead, the staff gets creative with frequently rotated themed displays such as The Kennebunks During the Civil War and Kennebunks A-Z. The museum also runs a walking tour of the historic district at 11am every Friday throughout the summer, and a tour of historic homes around nearby Mother’s Beach at 2pm on Thursday; maps of the sites are also available if you’d prefer to explore the areas on your own (guided tours $5, maps $5).
Step back into the golden days of narrow-gauge rail at the Seashore Trolley Museum (195 Log Cabin Rd., Kennebunkport, 207/967-2800, www.trolleymuseum.org, 10am-5pm daily summer, Sat.-Sun. only May and Oct., closed Nov.-Apr. except during Christmas Prelude, $12 adults, $10 seniors, $9.50 children 6-15, $5 children 3-5, children under 3 free). With a collection of more than 200 trolleys (some of which you can ride through nearby woods from the museum), plus a gift shop dedicated entirely to streetcars, the museum is well suited to enthusiastic kids and train aficionados alike.
The 1825 Wedding Cake House (104 Summer St., Kennebunkport) has become an essential sight for many visitors, who stop along the road to peer through the fence (the house is no longer open to the public). On a street with trim and tidy colonial gems, the overwrought Carpenter Gothic exterior is eye-catching, though the building sinks deeper into disrepair with each passing winter.
While there’s plenty of nightlife in the Kennebunks to go around, the main event is sunset, when boat drinks and microbrews flow at packed waterside bars. For a local vibe, flotsam-inspired decor, and Geary’s beer on draft, the Pilot House (4 Western Ave., Kennebunk, 207/967-9961, 11am-1am Mon.-Sat., 11am-midnight Sun.) is right by a marina and often has live music on weekend afternoons. The cavernous Federal Jack’s (8 Western Ave., Kennebunk, 207/967-4322, www.federaljacks.com, 11:30am-1am daily) is less atmospheric but has plenty of seating on deep balconies overlooking the water. A little farther into Kennebunk, Old Vines Wine Bar (173 Port Rd., Kennebunk, 207/967-2310, www.oldvineswinebar.com, 5pm-10pm daily) makes up for an inland location with a rooftop patio, gorgeously crafted cocktails, and the best wine list in town. On the other end of the spectrum, the Arundel Wharf (43 Ocean Ave., Kennebunkport, 207/967-3444, 11:30am-9pm daily) is more rum-and-Coke than Riesling, but you’ll be served on a floating dock in the Arundel River.
Free Concerts in the Park (Lafayette Park, Kennebunk, 6:30pm-7:30pm Wed.) feature classic rock and jazz bands mid-June-mid-August; bring a picnic blanket to spread out on the grass. In early June, the Kennebunk Food and Wine Festival (www.kennebunkportfestival.com) gathers local celebrity chefs and winemakers for a series of tastings and themed dinners. Later that month, Launch! Maritime Festival (www.gokennebunks.com) celebrates the Kennebunks’ nautical heritage with seafood cook-offs, boat parties, and the annual Blessing of the Fleet.
Humpback, finback, and minke whales congregate and feed at offshore banks, where they luxuriate in a whale’s dream buffet of tiny sea creatures. Try to catch a glimpse aboard Nick’s Chance (4 Western Ave., Kennebunk, 207/967-5507, www.firstchancewhalewatch.com, 4.5-hour trip $48 adults, $28 children 3-12), an 87-foot vessel that makes daily trips mid-June-September and weekend trips in the shoulder season. The boat goes up to 20 miles offshore, so even if the weather on the beach is balmy, bring plenty of warm clothing (and your favorite seasickness remedy). No refunds are given for trips when no whales are spotted, but passengers get a free pass for a second outing. The same company also runs 1.5-hour cruises on a lobster boat that’s a fun, inexpensive way to explore the coast and see what’s on the other end of all those colorful lobster buoys ($20 adults, $15 children 3-12).
The 1.5-mile stretch of coastline known as Kennebunk Beach, located where the Kennebunk River reaches the ocean and about 1.2 miles away from Dock Square, is actually a series of three beaches, scalloped curves neatly separated by small, rocky outcroppings. Farthest east and easily the most popular of the three, Gooch’s Beach is long and easy to access (if you’ve already secured a parking place downtown, it’s easy to reach Gooch’s Beach by bicycle or on foot: Leave Dock Square heading west on Western Avenue, then turn left onto Beach Avenue), but dwindles to a thin strip of sand at high tide. Next in line is Middle Beach, a quieter portion where the sand gives way to smooth stones that keep away sunbathers and sandcastle builders. Mother’s Beach is small and sandy, with a good playground that makes it a hit with young families. A $25 parking fee for Kennebunk Beach is charged mid-June-mid-September. The local Intown Trolley also makes stops at the three beaches.
Kennebunk Beach
On busy summer weekends, it’s often worth making the trip to Goose Rocks Beach in Cape Porpoise. Wide and scenic, the beach is rimmed with dune grass and perfect for strolling or taking a dip into the bracingly cold water. Parking at the beach is limited, and passes are required 8am-6pm late May-early September; buy a sticker at Goose Rocks Beach General Store (3 Dyke Rd., Kennebunkport, 207/967-2289, 7:30am-2pm Mon.-Thurs., 7:30am-7pm Fri.-Sat. May-June, 7:30am-7pm daily July-Sept., $15). A pass doesn’t guarantee you’ll find a spot, though, and the store advises showing up before 8:30am for the best chance at parking.
Back roads and trails around the Kennebunks invite endless exploration on two wheels. Though the way is narrow, winding, and sometimes clogged with sightseers, the eight-mile one-way ride down Ocean Avenue from Kennebunkport to Cape Porpoise via Wildes District Road is among the most scenic in town; the jewel-box seaside village has a few good seafood restaurants and an ice cream shop for mid-ride recovery. A gentler option is the flat, dirt Bridle Path that runs two miles along the Mousam River; the main access point and parking is at Sea Road School (29 Sea Rd., Kennebunk).
The 65-mile Eastern Trail (www.easterntrail.org) stretches along the coast from Kittery to South Portland, including 22 miles of smooth, off-road trail between Kennebunk and Bug Light in South Portland (parking available at Kennebunk Town Hall). Rent a hybrid, road, or mountain bike at Kennebunkport Bicycle Company (34 Arundel Rd., Kennebunkport, 207/385-4382, www.kennebikeport.com, 10am-5pm Mon.-Sat., 8am-3pm Sun., bikes from $20 half day, $26 full day), which also offers guided tours of local trails.
All eyes are on 55-foot schooner Eleanor when she cruises down the coast with gaff-rigged sails flying, and a trip with Captain Woody feels like stepping back into the grand old days of New England sailing. Eleanor (43 Ocean Ave., Kennebunkport, 207/967-8809, www.schoonereleanor.com, $50 day cruise, $60 sunset sail) makes two-hour outings daily May-September, and passengers are welcome to bring snacks and drinks aboard.
Kennebunk Beach makes a great place to start the day with a sunrise walk. Just outside of downtown Kennebunk, Wonder Brook Reserve (www.kennebunklandtrust.org, parking on Plummer Ln.) has 2.5 miles of footpaths through shady upland forest and banks of rustling ferns.
Old, sandy roads-turned-walking-trails run through pine barrens and grassland at Kennebunk Plains (Rte. 99, www.nature.org), which The Nature Conservancy bought to protect the endangered Morefield’s leather flower, threatened northern blazing star plants, and endangered grasshopper sparrows. The reserve also has a treasure trove of wild blueberries, and late summer brings a luxurious crop of the tiny, intensely flavored fruit (it’s essential to stay on the trail when picking, however, as some of the plains’ most vulnerable birds make their nests on the ground Apr.-Sept.).
Paddle the Kennebunk River or follow the shoreline to Goat Island Light on a guided kayak outing with Coastal Maine Kayak & Bike (8 Western Ave., Kennebunk, 207/967-6065, www.coastalmainekayak.com, 3-hour tours $85, kayak rentals from $45 half day, $60 full day), which also has a fleet of stand-up paddleboards. The Arundel River winds through scenic forest as it leaves the coast and is the most popular place for independent kayak trips, but outings must be timed to the tides (some paddlers have found themselves stuck in the mud).
Unless there’s a hurricane sending giant swells to shore (and sending expert surfers to the beach), the Kennebunks’ waves are relatively gentle and beginner friendly. Learn your way around the break at Gooch’s Beach with one of the instructors from Aquaholics Surf Shop (166 Port Rd., Kennebunk, 207/967-8650, www.aquaholicsurf.com, 1.5-hour private lesson $110 for 1 person, $170 for 2, $230 for 3, rental boards from $25 half day, $35 full day), which also rents soft- and hard-top boards.
The main competition for best lobster roll in town is S The Clam Shack (2 Western Ave., 207/967-3321, www.theclamshack.net, 11am-8pm daily May-Oct., $12-25), which has gotten top scores from a who’s who of food magazines and television shows. The riverside spot charges a premium for its version, but stuffs the toasted hamburger buns with a pound of lobster in large, meaty chunks bathed in your choice of mayonnaise or butter.
It’s a travel truism that nothing says “tourist trap” like a giant board screaming: “Locals eat here!” The thing about the Pilot House (4 Western Ave., 207/967-9961, 11am-1am Mon.-Sat., 11am-midnight Sun., $8-22), though, is that locals really do spend their time on the riverside patio or bellied up to the inside bar outfitted with outboard motors and fishing gear. Geary’s beer on tap, a convivial atmosphere, and a decent menu of fried grub (which many regulars like to cap off with a Jell-O shot, or three) make this a fine place to nurse a pint at the end of the day, listening to conversations about tourist foibles and fishing.
Grab a few basic foods, along with deli sandwiches and some prepared items at H. B. Provisions (15 Western Ave., 207/967-5762, www.hbprovisions.com, 6am-10pm daily). For a more extensive selection, a Hannaford Supermarket (65 Portland Rd., 207/985-9135, 7am-10pm Mon.-Sat., 7am-9pm Sun.) is on Route 1. Meet local bakers, farmers, and artisans at the Kennebunk Farmers’ Market (3 Wells Ct., www.kennebunkfarmersmarket.org, 8am-1pm Sat. May-Nov.), rain or shine.
There’s nowhere to sit at Port Lobster (122 Ocean Ave., 207/967-2081, www.portlobster.com, 9am-6pm daily, $9-16), but you can bring your takeout lunch across the street to the edge of the Arundel River and find park benches and views of the local fishing fleet. This seafood shop buys lobster and fish straight from the boat, and its lobster roll is simple and to the point: toasted white hot dog bun and tender meat just kissed with mayonnaise. The short menu also includes crab rolls, seafood salads, and chowder that come highly recommended.
Funky and offhandedly cool, Bandaloop (2 Dock Sq., 207/967-4994, www.bandaloop.biz, 5pm-10pm Tues.-Thurs., 5pm-11pm Fri.-Sat., $19-31) is an airy, energetic place to catch dinner made from organic, all-natural, and local foods served by a young, hip waitstaff. The menu changes frequently but includes creative dishes like tandoori-grilled salmon and pan-seared halibut with pepitas and pineapple chutney. Bandaloop also has beautifully prepared vegan options and is easily the best choice in town for non-meat options.
The lighthearted Salt & Honey (24 Ocean Ave., 207/204-0195, www.thesaltandhoney.com, breakfast and lunch 8:30am-2pm Fri.-Mon., dinner 4:30pm-9pm Wed.-Mon., breakfast $9-22, lunch $7-18, dinner $15-26) has fresh food and ambience offering a refreshing change from the seafood shack scene. Fish tacos and crab cakes are immensely popular, and you can start the day like a high roller with a lobster omelet dripping with caramelized onions and Havarti cheese.
A long-standing fine dining destination, The White Barn Inn (37 Beach Ave., 207/967-2321, www.whitebarninn.com, 6pm-9:30pm Mon.-Thurs., 5:30pm-close Fri.-Sun., four-course prix fixe $109, nine-course tasting menu $155, wine pairing $48-85) has won seemingly every award and honor a restaurant can earn in the United States. It has impeccable service, and the 19th-century barn setting makes a luxurious backdrop for the food, which balances classic and creative flavors.
With offbeat offerings ranging from Lemon Pink Peppercorn to Malbec & Berries, Rococo Artisan Ice Cream (6 Spring St., 207/251-6866, www.rococoicecream.com, 11:30am-11pm Mon.-Fri., 11am-11pm Sat.-Sun., $4-6) is the sweetest game in town. Lucky for wafflers, the shop serves ice cream in “flights” that include four small scoops of different flavors.
Though it’s only three miles down the road from the center of Kennebunkport, the village of Cape Porpoise is a place apart, with salt marshes and just a few places to eat in between the vacation homes lining the waterfront.
On a coast where flotsam-chic is a competitive sport—everything from clam shacks to inns are draped in fishing net, buoys, and other marine paraphernalia—The Ramp (77 Pier Rd., Kennebunkport, 207/967-8500, www.pier77restaurant.com, 11:30am-9pm daily, $14-25) might take the prize. Crushed shells cover the ground and rowboats stand guard over the parking lot. The menu of pub classics and seafood is solid, but it’s the Portuguese-style mussels that win raves.
Out a bit farther, Earth at Hidden Pond (354 Goose Rocks Rd., Kennebunkport, 207/967-6550, www.earthathiddenpond.com, 5:30pm-9:30pm daily, $40-65) is a top contender for a night of splashing out with its exquisite food and modern-design-meets-rustic-chic decor. Its menu of contemporary cuisine is rooted in local products and flavors, and while any spot in the restaurant makes a lovely place to spend the evening, two private screened-in shacks (first-come, first-served) are the most stunning places to enjoy a meal.
There’s nothing fancy about Kennebunk Gallery Motel & Cottages (65 York St., Kennebunk, 207/985-4543, www.kennebunkcottages.com, May-Oct., $45-164), but the friendly staff and location just outside of town make it an excellent find. Larger cottages have small, simple kitchens, and a volleyball court and pool keep things cheery.
Set on the serene grounds of a Lithuanian Franciscan monastery, the nonprofit Franciscan Guest House (26 Beach Ave., Kennebunk, 207/967-4865, www.franciscanguesthouse.com, $61-195) is a converted boardinghouse that hosts retreats and a regular crowd of Lithuanian summer people. The dated, very simple rooms are not for everybody—same goes for faux wood paneling and flaxen-haired figurines—but it’s a 0.5 mile walk to town or to Kennebunk Beach, and the guesthouse is a good deal for the location, with prices that fall to $61 in the shoulder season. A simple, continental breakfast is included, and a hot breakfast buffet is available for an additional donation, with homemade Lithuanian bread, pancakes, and sometimes Ukininku Suris, a rustic farmer cheese; dinner may be served during high season. All rooms have a fridge, cable television, and in-room bathrooms, and there’s an unheated pool that’s a treat for lounging.
Perfectly tidy and well maintained, the Port Inn (55 York St., Kennebunk, 855/849-1513, www.portinnkennebunk.com, $105-300) has flourishes of contemporary style and color that keep it from feeling generic. A generous, hot buffet breakfast is served in a bustling dining room, and, given the location, this spot feels a bit more luxurious than the price would suggest.
Common spaces at the S Seaside Inn (80 Beach Ave., Kennebunk, 207/967-4461, www.kennebunkbeachmaine.com, $150-369) are somewhere between dated and homey, but rooms are comfortable and bright, and oceanfront rooms have big sliding doors that let in the sound of rolling waves and the scent of the sea. For access to the beach, this spot is unmatched, with a private, sandy path that leads straight to the water. The breakfast buffet is classic, old-fashioned Maine: whole grain oatmeal, French toast with blueberries and syrup, and bowls of fresh fruit in a convivial dining room.
The closest thing in adult life to an indulgent, sleep-away summer camp may be Hidden Pond (354 Goose Rocks Rd., Kennebunkport, 888/967-9050, www.hiddenpondmaine.com, bungalows from $299, cottages from $499), a dreamy resort tucked into a quiet patch of woods. Guests ride cruiser bikes down the dirt roads between bungalows and gather each night to toast s’mores at a lakeside bonfire. The two-bedroom cottages have small kitchens and are clustered near the all-ages pool, while the bungalows are strolling distance from the adults-only pool and a spa. Each of the buildings has distinctive style and decor, but chic, vintage flair and a keen eye for style make the whole place picture-perfect.
The hospitable S Red Apple Campground (111 Sinnott Rd., Kennebunkport, 207/967-4927, www.redapplecampground.com, tents $51, RVs $60, full-service $65) has neat and tidy campsites set on a grassy clearing in the forest, as well as comfortable cabins ranging from four-person units with air-conditioning, cable TV, and a refrigerator to six-person options with a small kitchen, barbecue area, and outdoor fire pit ($175-220, 3-day minimum, 1-week minimum in high season). A heated pool, camp store, and rec room give this spot a convivial feel, and if you order in the morning, the friendly owners will bring a fresh-cooked lobster dinner to your site at far below Kennebunkport prices.
With slightly fewer amenities, Yankeeland Campground (1 Robinson Way, Kennebunk, 207/985-7576, www.yankeelandcampground.com, $34/36 for 2 adults in partial/full-hookup sites, $5 extra adult, $3 extra child) is still an appealing option, especially at the lower price.
All the usual pamphlets, along with maps and good advice, are available at the chamber of commerce (16 Water St., Kennebunk, 207/967-0857, www.gokennebunks.com, 9am-4pm Mon.-Fri.).
Kennebunk and Kennebunkport are on opposite sides of the Kennebunk River on Route 9, roughly 40 minutes south of Portland. There’s currently no public transportation to the Kennebunks.
Intown Trolley (207/967-3638, www.intowntrolley.com, June-Oct., $16 adults, $6 children 3-17, children under 3 free, $45 family of 2 adults and up to 4 children) follows a fixed route through town that takes in Kennebunk and Kennebunkport’s main sights and beaches, with narration. Fares are good for one whole day, making this a useful option if you plan on doing a lot of sightseeing. Shuttle-Bus (207/282-5408, www.shuttlebus-zoom.com) operates buses around the southern coast. Fares and schedules vary.
Perched at the aft end of Casco Bay, Portland’s the last bit of solidly built earth before the coastline splinters into the bays, inlets, and islands of Mid-Coast Maine. Look closer, though, and the city itself seems all shoreline: heads, breakwaters, and lighthouses wrap in on themselves, pinching Portland’s peninsular center between Back Cove and the Fore River. Downtown bristles with schooner masts and wharves that give way to a rugged, working waterfront.
That blend of picturesque charm and real-world maritime culture infuses the city, and wherever you go in the Old Port and peninsula, the sea is not far away. Cobblestone streets are lined with galleries, museum, and boutiques celebrating Maine’s seafaring traditions, and many of the city’s chic bars and restaurants have a boat-to-table philosophy boasting chefs on a first-name basis with fishers, long-liners, and sea captains. The effect is utterly entrancing: When the weather is fine and Casco Bay sparkling, and the air smells of salt and fresh seafood, many visitors find themselves at Old Port brewpubs or on the deck of a sailing ship thinking up ways to move to Portland.
To orient yourself in Portland, find its two major thoroughfares: Commercial Street runs between the Old Port and working waterfront, which anchor the heart of Portland’s peninsula. The Arts District centers around Congress Street, with a collection of fine art galleries, studios, and the excellent Portland Museum of Art. Meanwhile, to the west, up-and-coming areas Munjoy Hill and West Bayside are primarily residential, with a handful of art galleries and cafés.
With a craggy shoreline that’s often wrapped in thick fog, it’s no wonder the Portland area needs half a dozen lighthouses to keep boats off the rocks. Even with their blinking beacons, the city’s seen centuries of dramatic and often tragic wrecks: the Annie C. Maguire ran aground right at the base of Portland Head Light on Christmas Eve 1886. Set on pretty capes and outcroppings, lighthouses are part of the Maine landscape at its most picturesque, but even on sunny days, their powerful lenses and stout architecture serve as a reminder that sailing Maine’s waters has always been a dangerous undertaking.
The most iconic lighthouse in Portland is Portland Head Light, in nearby Cape Elizabeth, but there are some worthy beacons that can be spotted from the city. Watch for the squat Bug Light at the edge of the Portland Breakwater, Ram Island Ledge Lighthouse on its own tiny island, and Spring Point Ledge Lighthouse, which looks like a stubby, cast-iron spark plug and has excellent views of the bay.
The I. M. Pei-designed Portland Museum of Art (7 Congress Sq., 207/775-6148, www.portlandmuseum.org, 10am-6pm Sat.-Wed., 10am-8pm Thurs.-Fri., hours fluctuate in off-season, $15 adults, $13 seniors, $10 students, children under 15 free, free to all 4pm-8pm Fri.) is a world-class collection of impressionist and American work. A highlight for many visitors is work by Maine artist Winslow Homer, whose dramatic images of rescues at sea, windy shorelines, and small boats are seen as among the best American landscapes. Other noteworthy artists include Mary Cassatt, Claude Monet, Edward Hopper, and Auguste Renoir, but don’t miss the dramatic engravings, lithographs, and paintings by Maine artist Rockwell Kent, many of whose mythic landscapes and woodcuts were made on the nearby island of Monhegan.
For a more modern slice of the art scene, check out the Institute of Contemporary Art at the Maine College of Art (522 Congress St. or 87 Free St., 207/879-5742 or 207/669-5029, www.meca.edu, 11am-5pm Wed. & Fri.-Sun, 11am-7pm Thurs., 11am-8pm first Fri. of the month, free). The school’s galleries draw cutting-edge installations from local and global artists, both established and aspiring.
Rotating exhibitions at the Maine Historical Society (489 Congress St., 207/774-1822, www.mainehistory.org, 10am-5pm Mon.-Sat., noon-5pm Sun., $8 adults, $7 seniors and students, $2 children 6-17) illustrate the state’s past through collections, exhibits, and lectures. Particularly riveting are the exhibits pertaining to the shelling that Portland received at the hands of the British during the Revolutionary War, when the port, then known as Falmouth, was burned to the ground in October 1775. The British captain offered mercy if the townspeople would swear allegiance to King George. No oath came, and the city was destroyed—only to be rebuilt over the next two decades.
Next door, the Wadsworth-Longfellow House (487 Congress St., 207/774-1822, www.mainehistory.org, tours noon-5pm daily May, 10am-5pm Mon.-Sat., noon-5pm Sun. June-Oct., $15 adults, $12 seniors and students, $3 children 6-17, $30 family of 2 adults and up to 3 children) was built in 1786 and achieved fame as the childhood home of poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow. It’s been restored to the time of the early 1800s, when Longfellow lived there. Tours lasting 45 minutes take in the life of the poet, as well as other members of the Longfellow family, such as Revolutionary War general Peleg Wadsworth.
Tired of waiting for boats to round Spring Point Ledge and come into view, Captain Lemuel Moody built the Portland Observatory (138 Congress St., 207/774-5561, www.portlandlandmarks.org, tours 10am-4:30pm daily May-Oct., sunset tours 5pm-8pm Thurs. late July-early Sept., $10 adults, $8 seniors and students, $5 children 6-16, $30 families) in 1807 so he could see harbor arrivals—and pass along the news to other shipowners for a tidy $5 annual fee. Climb the cheery red tower for Cap’n Moody’s coveted lines of sight across Casco Bay and beyond, a vantage point especially sublime at sunset, when the waterfront and islands seem to glow on the sparkling water.
Fans of Italianate architecture (or anyone who likes a pretty building) can swing by the Victoria Mansion (109 Danforth St., 207/772-4841, www.victoriamansion.org, tours 10am-3:45pm Mon.-Sat., 1pm-4:45pm Sun. May-Oct., 1pm-5pm Tues.-Sun. late Nov.-early Jan., $16 adults, $14 seniors, $5 students 6-17, children under 6 free, $35 families). Built by a hotel magnate between 1858 and 1860, the mansion is considered the greatest surviving example of pre-Civil War architecture in the country. Ahead of its time, it employed central heating, running water, and gas lighting in an era when such efficiencies were virtually unknown luxuries. These days the house is particularly impressive at Christmastime, when it’s decorated from baseboards to ceilings with ornaments and wreaths.
Even if it weren’t for all its breweries, Portland would have an amazing bar scene. Some of the most popular places to grab a drink are also restaurants, like Eventide Oyster Co., Duckfat, and Terlingua, but there are a few that go right to the point.
Nordic chic and Scandinavian-themed small bites prevail at the stylish Portland Hunt & Alpine Club (75 Market St., 207/747-4754, www.huntandalpineclub.com, 3pm-1am daily), and a happy hour lineup of four $6 cocktails is available until 6pm daily. Unless you’re really looking, you’ll walk right by Novare Res Bier Cafe (4 Canal Plaza, 207/761-2437, www.novareresbiercafe.com, 4pm-1am Mon.-Thurs., 3pm-1am Fri., noon-1am Sat.-Sun.), which is tucked down an alley between Union and Exchange Streets. Between the shady beer garden and cave-like interior, it works in any weather, and has an enormous list of beers from around the world. Drinkers who like their music on vinyl and decor eclectic will love Maps (64 Market St., 207/272-9263, 4pm-midnight Wed.-Sun.), which feels like a basement apartment owned by a fashionable friend, but with drinks, cake, and grilled cheese sandwiches.
With such a deluge of art venues, it’s no surprise Portland offers a slew of performances, concerts, openings, and other events over the course of every year. One of the most regular—and festive—is the First Friday Art Walk (www.firstfridayartwalk.com, 5pm-8pm on first Fri. of every month). In early June, the waterfront pulls out all the stops for the Old Port Festival (www.portlandmaine.com), an outdoor event packed with musicians, public art, and a Ferris wheel at the water’s edge. Another favorite is the Maine Brewers Festival (www.mainebrewersfestival.com) in early November, which assembles the best of local beer in one place.
Pretty shops line the cobblestone streets of Portland’s Old Port. For the most efficient browsing, make your way along Exchange and Congress Streets. One local favorite is the sweetly hipster Pinecone + Chickadee (6 Free St., 207/772-9280, www.pineconeandchickadee.com, 10am-6pm daily), which stocks unique clothing, vintage finds, and doohickeys that make perfect gifts. Comic book lovers from around the East come to Coast City Comics (634 Congress St., 207/899-1505, www.coastcitycomics.com, 11am-8pm daily) for its collection not only of comics but also pinball and arcade games and vintage toys so fun the store could charge admission. Vintage and antiques hounds shouldn’t miss the Portland Flea-For-All (585 Congress St., 207/370-7570, www.portlandfleaforall.com, noon-6pm Fri., 10am-6pm Sat., 10am-5pm Sun., hours can change without notice so call to confirm) for treasures covering three sprawling floors. Loved for classic jams and jellies, Stonewall Kitchen (182 Middle St., 207/879-2409, www.stonewallkitchen.com, 10am-8pm Mon.-Sat., 10am-6pm Sun.) is one of Maine’s most recognizable brands, and the company store in Portland is a wonderland of free samples and things to buy.
With great sunset views and a skinny strip of sand, East End Beach is pleasant for walking and kayaking, and, more to the point, it’s Portland’s only public beach. It’s set on the southern end of the Eastern Promenade, where monuments, cliffs, and smooth trails make for a haven from the city. If you have a day to spend on the sand, however, it’s worth getting out of town to Cape Elizabeth’s gorgeous Crescent Beach.
Take a turn hoisting the gaff-rigged sails—or let someone else do the work—on a two-hour cruise aboard the Bagheera or Wendameen, the 72- and 88-foot schooners operated by Portland Schooner Co. (Maine State Pier, 56 Commercial St., 207/766-2500, www.portlandschooner.com, 2-hour sailing trip $44 adults, $22 children 12 and under).
Walking and biking paths wind through Portland’s streets, and much of the scenic waterfront is pedestrian accessible. One of the finest places to walk or bike is Back Cove Trail, a 3.6-mile paved trail that circles a small estuary just north of downtown. Hop on (and leave your car) at Payson Park, the northern access point, or Preble Street. If you’re headed from north to south, the Back Cove Trail connects to the Eastern Promenade, a slender waterfront park that caps Portland’s East End neighborhood; 2.1 miles end-to-end, the park has walking trails, a popular swimming beach, and showstopping sunrise views. Portland Trails (207/775-2411, www.trails.org) maintains a website with maps and directions to many of the city’s best offerings.
Rent a kayak (or stand-up paddleboard) from Portland Paddle (East End Beach, Eastern Promenade, 207/370-9730, www.portlandpaddle.net, kayaks $30 for 2 hours, $40 half day, $55 full day, SUP $25 for 1 hour, $35 for 3 hours) to explore Casco Bay on your own. Paddlers with basic skills can poke along the coast and beaches, while more experienced kayakers can visit uninhabited islands, the historic Fort Gorges, and offshore communities. The company also offers guided tours: Family paddles, moonlight outings, and sunset trips are just a hair more expensive than renting the equipment alone (tours from $40 adults, $35 children 10-16).
From old-school seafood joints to achingly hip bistros, Portland punches far above its weight in the restaurant department, and deciding where to apportion your limited meals in the city can be agonizing. Oysters and cocktails? Super-fresh salads packed with ingredients from local farms? How about a creamy bowl of chowder within earshot of the waterfront’s clanging masts and foghorns?
A refreshing throwback to Portland’s pre-hipster, rough-hewn days, Gilbert’s Chowder House (92 Commercial St., 207/871-5636, www.gilbertschowderhouse.com, 11am-10pm daily, $7-21) slings fresh corn and clam chowders in a thoroughly unpretentious space. The crisp, flaky haddock sandwiches are another treat, as is the open terrace behind the restaurant; when the restaurant is packed, order a cup of soup to go and find a spot on the nearby wharves for a very Maine picnic.
The interior of the S Eventide Oyster Co. (86 Middle St., 207/774-8538, www.eventideoysterco.com, 11am-midnight daily, $16-25) is almost too gorgeous: bright teal walls setting off a mammoth chunk of granite filled with crushed ice and sea creatures. The oysters—which mostly come from Maine, with a few out-of-state additions—are the obvious choice and centerpiece, and come with anything from “Kim Chee Ice” to classic mignonettes and cocktail sauce. Other options include small plates like duck confit salad and tuna crudo, but Eventide is famed for its lobster roll, a luscious combination of sweet lobster meat, brown butter, and chives in a soft Chinese-style steamed bun.
From dark chocolate with sea salt to maple bacon, the flavors of the soft, crisp-crusted treats at The Holy Donut (7 Exchange St., 207/775-7776, www.theholydonut.com, 7:30am-4pm Mon.-Thurs., 7:30am-8pm Fri.-Sat., 7:30am-5pm Sun., $2-5) are some of the best around—for doughnut lovers, this shop is a pilgrimage place. Arrive early to get the best selection, and avoid coming at the end of the day, as the doors close when the last doughnut sells.
A rustic, French aesthetic means great piles of croissants and fruit galettes at Standard Baking Co. (75 Commercial St., 207/773-2112, www.standardbakingco.com, 7am-6pm Mon.-Fri., 7am-5pm Sat.-Sun., $3-9), a beloved local institution walking distance from the Old Port. Breads and pastries are made with organic wheat flour from regional growers, and all the delightfully crusty loaves are naturally leavened.
Just a few doors down, you’ll find fresh fare to offset any doughnut guilt: B. Good (15 Exchange St., 207/747-5355, www.bgood.com, 11am-9pm Mon.-Thurs., 11am-10pm Fri.-Sat., 11am-8pm Sun., $7-12) is a chain with a couple-dozen locations across the East, but the concept of healthy food with local roots means the ingredients are sourced from Maine farmers and producers. Come for bowls of kale and quinoa, bright salads, simple burgers, and healthy smoothies, and find a seat upstairs when the place is hopping—a quiet bar and window-side tables overlook the action on Exchange Street.
Cheerful and welcoming, Hot Suppa! (703 Congress St., 207/871-5005, www.hotsuppa.com, 7:30am-2pm Sun.-Mon., 7am-2pm and 4pm-9:15pm Tues.-Sat., breakfast $5-11, lunch $7-12, dinner $15-24) serves an eclectic selection of comfort food with Southern flair, like pork belly with red beans and rice, catfish and grits, chicken and waffles, and some of the best corned beef hash in New England. Waits can get long, so aim to come early or late.
Named for a map-dot Texas town that hosts a yearly chili cook-off, Terlingua (52 Washington Ave., 207/808-8502, www.terlingua.me, 11:30am-9pm Mon.-Thurs., 11:30am-10pm Fri.-Sat., 10am-9pm Sun., $14-20) is a warm, vivid antidote to all that seafood. The barbecue fare at this laid-back restaurant is executed with a reverence for smoke and meat and Tex-Mex flair, from butternut squash empanadas to red and green chilis. Menu items like Frito pie (in the bag) lean cheeky, and regulars wash it all down with the killer house margaritas and solid beer choices.
Just down the road is another local favorite: S Duckfat (43 Middle St., 207/774-8080, www.duckfat.com, 11am-10pm daily, $8-14) serves a casual lineup of panini, salads, and golden french fries redolent of—you guessed it—duck fat. Decor is exposed brick and magnetic poetry tiles, and the poutine topped with cheese curds, gravy, and a fried egg would fortify you for a week of lighthouse bagging. If at all possible, save room for one of the shop’s luxurious milkshakes, and come prepared to wait most nights.
Vegetarians weary of meat-heavy Yankee fare shouldn’t miss Green Elephant (608 Congress St., 207/347-3111, www.greenelephantmaine.com, 11:30am-2:30pm and 5pm-9:30pm Mon.-Sat., 5pm-9pm Sun., $12-15), a top-notch Asian bistro with stenciled green walls and chandeliers. The spicy ginger noodles are a favorite with regulars, as are the tofu tikka masala and crispy wontons filled with soy cheese and spinach.
Often credited with putting Portland on the international foodie map, S Fore Street (288 Fore St., 207/775-2717, www.forestreet.biz, 5:30pm-10pm Sun.-Thurs., 5:30pm-10:30pm Fri.-Sat., bar from 5pm daily, $28-40) could rest on its locally sourced, handcrafted laurels for a decade. That makes it all the more refreshing that the kitchen continues to turn out such high-quality fare. An open kitchen keeps the industrial-chic space from seeming too hushed as diners tuck in to seafood roasted in a wood-fired oven or house-made charcuterie paired with a serious wine list.
Conveniently located in the Old Port, Rosemont Market & Bakery (5 Commercial St., 207/699-4560, www.rosemontmarket.com, 9am-7pm Mon.-Sat., 9am-6pm Sun.) is “human sized” and stocked with regional vegetables, cheese, meat, and house-made baked goods as well as pizza and sandwiches. The Portland Food Co-Op (290 Congress St., 207/805-1599, www.portlandfood.coop, 8am-8pm daily) has aisles stuffed with local and organic products plus healthy, premade food. More basic options are available at Hannaford Supermarket (295 Forest Ave., 207/761-5965, 7am-11pm daily), at the edge of Back Cove.
Portland has three farmers markets overflowing with everything from local veggies to goat yogurt and kimchi. A carnival atmosphere commands at the downtown Monument Square Market (456 Congress St., 7am-1pm Wed. Apr.-Dec.), while the market at Deering Oaks Park (7am-1pm Sat. late Apr.-Nov.) is a bit more relaxed. The Winter Farmers’ Market (84 Cove St., 9am-1pm Sat. Dec.-Apr.) also has live music and food trucks.
Though Portland has some wonderful top-end offerings, a lack of reasonably priced accommodations in the city makes sites like Airbnb and VBRO good options for travelers on a budget.
Ask a local about The Inn at St. John (939 Congress St., 207/773-6481, www.innatstjohn.com, $75-250), and he or she will likely recall its seedy years when the West End was decidedly down-market. It’s been overhauled one room at a time, however, retaining flourishes of Gilded Age glamour and gaining much-needed updates like wireless Internet, coffeemakers, and a bit of contemporary style. Continental breakfast is served in a downstairs dining room, and the rooms vary widely, from more luxurious king rooms boasting en suite baths and views of the street to somewhat garret-like singles with shared baths. The narrow, steep stairs are not for everyone.
Set on a quiet side street in the West End, the Percy Inn (15 Pine St., 207/871-7638, www.percyinn.com, $89-219) is in a renovated 1830s federal-style brick house that feels like pure, old-fashioned Portland. The house has some quirks and could use a bit of updating, but the overall effect is lovely; rooms are named for famous writers, and the fire-lit library and spacious common room are welcoming.
Somewhere between bohemian whimsy and design-chic, S Pomegranate Inn (49 Neal St., 207/772-1006, www.pomegranateinn.com, $200-359) is settled on a pretty corner in a historic neighborhood and full of visual treasures. Every room has unique hand-painted walls, and antiques are displayed alongside modern art. A 3rd-floor lounge is stocked with games, and a quiet back patio makes an ideal spot for enjoying the daily cookies, tea, and coffee. “The Pom” is now operated by Lark Hotels and serves the group’s characteristic small-plate breakfast that will charm your socks off (and leave some hungry travelers looking for a bit more).
Flying typewriters and wordy art are reminders that The Press Hotel (119 Exchange St., 207/808-8800, www.thepresshotel.com, $225-450) was once the home of the Portland Press Herald, and the journo-chic theme runs throughout the property. Excellent service gives the large property a boutique feel, and the Inkwell coffee and wine bar feels like just the place to type up some hotel poetry of your own—local touches are everywhere and, all in all, Press offers some of the coolest new digs in New England.
The remarkably helpful and informative visitors bureau (207/772-5800, www.visitportland.com) has a website full of information and links, and runs information centers on the waterfront at 14 Ocean Gateway Pier (207/772-5800, 9am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-4pm Sat.-Sun., winter hours vary) and in the Jetport Terminal next to baggage claim (207/775-5809, 8am-midnight Mon. and Thurs.-Fri., 10am-midnight Sat.-Sun., winter hours vary).
Maine’s largest airport is Portland International Jetport (1001 Westbrook St., 207/774-7301, www.portlandjetport.org), with service from American, Delta, JetBlue, Southwest, and United. There you’ll find national car rental agencies Alamo, Avis, Budget, Enterprise, Hertz, and National, and the Greater Portland Transit District METRO (207/774-0351, www.gpmetrobus.net), which has a bus from the airport to downtown Portland (Route #5, 6-15 buses daily).
The Amtrak Downeaster (800/872-7245, www.amtrakdowneaster.com) runs from Boston to Portland five times a day, with two trains making an extended trip to Freeport and Brunswick. The Portland stop is at the Portland Transportation Center (100 Thompson’s Point Rd.), two miles outside of downtown. Trolleys link Wells Regional Transportation Center with the Kennebunks, and the Freeport station is within walking distance of downtown shops.
Concord Coach Lines (100 Thompson’s Point Rd., 800/639-3317, www.concordcoachlines.com) operates buses from Boston and New York City; long-distance routes connect to Portland, then continue to many towns along Route 1, including Brunswick (16 Station Ave.), Bath (Mail It 4 U, 10 State Rd.), Rockland (Maine State Ferry Terminal, 517A Main St.), and Camden/Rockport (Maritime Farms, 20 Commercial St./Rte. 1, Rockport).
Greyhound (950 Congress St., 207/772-6588 or 800/231-2222, www.greyhound.com) has services to Portland from Boston and around New England.
Portland’s local bus company is Metro (114 Valley St., 207/774-0351, www.gpmetrobus.net, $1.50 adults, $0.75 seniors, children under 6 free, $5 all-day pass), which runs out of its downtown station to points including the airport. Compared to most capital cities, Portland has a decent amount of metered street parking, which doesn’t guarantee you’ll find any right away (particularly in the summer), but the odds are good. That said, the city has pay lots and garages set up every few blocks. Local taxis to call are ABC Taxi (207/772-8685) and Town Taxi (207/773-1711).
There are 136 islands, give or take, scattered across the broad Casco Bay—enough that they were long called the Calendar Islands, a name that evokes the dreamy possibility of spending an entire year skipping from isle to isle. The islands on Casco Bay can feel wonderfully remote, though they’re just a quick ferry ride from downtown Portland, and they’re well worth a day trip or overnight escape.
The most accessible of the Casco Bay islands, Peaks Island is like a Portland neighborhood surrounded by water, and with many ferry departures each day, it’s the easiest way to get out on the water. Most visitors leave their cars on the mainland, then rent a golf cart or bicycle for a day of exploring.
Circle the island by bicycle on the Peaks Island Loop, a four-mile, mostly flat route that winds between residential neighborhoods and the waterfront. Bikes are available to rent, with helmets and maps of the island, from Brad’s Bike Rental and Repair (115 Island Ave., 207/766-5631, 10am-6pm daily, rentals $10 per hour, $30 all day), a short walk from the ferry terminal.
Oddly wonderful and wonderfully odd, the Umbrella Cover Museum (62 B Island Rd., 207/766-4496, www.umbrellacovermuseum.com, 10am-1pm and 2pm-5pm Tues.-Sat., 10am-12:30pm Sun. June-early Sept.) is a deep dive into the sheaths, envelopes, and slipcovers that umbrellas come in. Tours sometimes include impromptu “umbrella songs” by the accordion-playing curator.
For the best perspective on the rugged coast, grab a paddle. Guided kayak tours are available from Maine Island Kayak (207/766-2373, www.maineislandkayak.com, half-day tour from $65), whose guides meet the arriving ferryboat from Portland.
Dining options are limited on Peaks Island, but The Cockeyed Gull Restaurant (78 Island Ave., 207/766-2800, 11:30am-8:30pm daily, hours and days vary in winter $8-25) has seafood standards and great views of the water from its deck. Another possibility is The Inn on Peaks Island (33 Island Ave., 207/766-5100, www.innonpeaks.com, 11am-9pm Sun.-Thurs., 11am-10pm Fri.-Sat., $9-26), whose menu ranges from basic burgers and sandwiches to upscale entrées like lobster risotto.
Casco Bay Lines (56 Commercial St., 207/774-7871, www.cascobaylines.com, approximately 1 per hour, $7.70 adults, $3.85 children and seniors) has year-round ferry service from downtown Portland to Peaks Island.
Farther away from Portland both geographically and in spirit, this is a quiet place to explore by bike, or picnic on one of the island’s appealing beaches. If you’re looking for an overnight escape, the island’s single hotel is an ideal place to get away from it all.
For two hours on either side of low tide, the ocean exposes a slender sandbar linking Great Chebeague with Little Chebeague Island, an uninhabited islet that’s covered in thick forest. To reach the sandbar, follow Indian Point Road to a sandy beach that looks out at Little Chebeague Island.
Close to the Chebeague Island Inn, Hamilton Beach is the island’s best for swimming and sunbathing, with warmer water then elsewhere on Chebeague.
The island’s main social hub is the Slow Bell Café (2 Walker Rd., 207/846-3078, 5pm-midnight Thurs.-Sun. Memorial Day-Labor Day, $9-20), a bar and restaurant with a laid-back, castaway feel. Seafood, salads, and sandwiches are casual and well made.
Though there’s just one place to stay on the island, the lovely S Chebeague Island Inn (61 South Rd., 207/856-5155, www.chebeagueislandinn.com, $175-450) more than compensates for the lack of variety. A great, shady porch faces the water, with rocking chairs and warm blankets for morning coffee, and there are beach towels and umbrellas to borrow for a trip to the shore. Nonguests are welcome at the inn’s restaurant (breakfast 7:30am-9:30am, lunch 11:30am-2:30pm, light fare 2:30pm-9pm, dinner 5:30pm-8pm, daily, $15-35), which serves elegant preparations using many local ingredients.
Casco Bay Lines (56 Commercial St., Portland, 207/774-7871, www.cascobaylines.com, 1 hr., 20 min., $11 adults, $5.50 children and seniors) has year-round ferry service from downtown Portland to Chebeague Island, with several departures each day. Chebeague Transportation Company (Cousins Island Wharf, Yarmouth, 207/846-3700, www.chebeaguetrans.com, 15 min., $16 adults, $4.50 children 6-11) has regular service from Yarmouth. Parking is available at the company’s lot in Cumberland, with a bus shuttle to the wharf.
A network of ferries connects Portland with the islands speckling Casco Bay. Casco Bay Lines (56 Commercial St., 207/774-7871, www.cascobaylines.com, passenger ferry $7-12, mail boat run $16 adults, $14 seniors, $8 children) runs trips to seven islands, from a quick hop to Peaks Island to the longer trip to Chebeague. The ferry service still delivers the mail to offshore communities, and you can tag along on the mail boat run, which lasts 2.5-3.5 hours; while the boat doesn’t linger long enough for you to explore the islands, you’ll get great views, and the crew narrates the whole experience on a loudspeaker (bring your own food and drinks).
Just a short drive from the city of Portland, this seaside community offers views back across Casco Bay, and one of Maine’s most recognizable lighthouses. While this is a quick day trip for most visitors, it’s equally appealing as a home base for visiting the city, where you can nip into town for dinner, then return to the quiet of night by Crescent Beach.
The most iconic among Portland’s lighthouses is the Portland Head Light (1000 Shore Rd., www.portlandheadlight.com, museum and gift shop 10am-4pm daily, park sunrise-sunset daily); its slender proportions and red-roofed keeper’s house are perfectly offset by jagged outcroppings and crashing waves. It was the first lighthouse completed by the U.S. government and has been guiding ships on Casco Bay since 1791; the rocky head is rich with history, including shipwrecks and daring, stormy rescues, and some believe it’s haunted by the benevolent ghost of a former lighthouse keeper. One frequent visitor was hometown poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, who liked to drink with the lighthouse keeper and later wrote:
Steadfast, serene, immovable, the same
Year after year, through all the silent night
Burns on forevermore that quenchless flame,
Shines on that inextinguishable light!
For the real Maine beach experience, it’s worth heading out of town. Eight miles south of Portland, Crescent Beach (66 Two Lights Rd., 207/767-3625, www.maine.gov, 9am-sunset daily, $8 adults, $2 seniors, $1 children 5-11) is all dune grass and soft sand, a gorgeous place to watch the fishing fleet cross the horizon.
A favorite spot for lighthouse bagging is Two Lights (Two Lights Rd.), a pretty pair of private lighthouses with a small beach and rocks perfect for hopping around and scouting for sea creatures. Confusingly, neither of the two lights is visible from Two Lights State Park, so just continue down the road until it ends in a small parking lot. Since neither lighthouse is open to the public, the views (and photo opportunities) aren’t quite as good as elsewhere, but the neighboring Lobster Shack takes up the slack.
Adjoining the Two Lights lighthouses, The Lobster Shack (225 Two Lights Rd., 207/799-1677, www.lobstershacktwolights.com, 11am-8pm daily Mar.-Oct., $12-18) has some of Maine’s most beloved lobster rolls. The interior is decked out in marine bric-a-brac, and the outdoor picnic tables overlook crashing waves and the lighthouses—but be vigilant about seagulls to avoid losing bits of your meal. While the lobster roll is the main attraction here, The Lobster Shack also serves the standard lineup of market-price seafood, and a homemade strawberry rhubarb pie that gets rave reviews.
Set back from Crescent Beach, S Inn by the Sea (40 Bowery Beach Rd., 207/779-3134, www.innbythesea.com, $450-700) has a perfect location and gorgeous grounds. The luxurious resort has family-friendly bungalows and cottages as well as beautiful rooms in the main inn and perks like outdoor pools, a fireplace stocked with s’mores, and a spa. What sets the inn apart from other top-notch properties, though, is a remarkable focus on conservation: The on-site wetlands and meadows were overhauled to create habitat for the endangered New England cottontail rabbit, the inn runs environmental science education programs, and the chef works with local fishers to source from underutilized fish populations. It’s also easy to leave the inn with an unusual memento of your stay—the staff fosters friendly dogs from the local humane society that can be adopted by guests; hundreds find new homes each year.
Cape Elizabeth is 20 minutes south of Portland on Route 77, which loops past the cape’s main destinations. There’s currently no public transit from Portland to the sights in Cape Elizabeth.
Just 20 minutes up the coast from Portland, Freeport is a shipbuilding and fishing village turned New England-themed outlet shopping destination, a transformation that’s left some interesting quirks, with boutiques, outlets, and even a McDonald’s restaurant tucked into historic homes. Visitors tend to love it or hate it, but whether you’re planning an all-day shopping itinerary or just want a home base for exploring Portland, it’s a good place to stay, with more affordable accommodations than the city.
The undisputed headliner of Freeport’s retail scene is the L.L. Bean Flagship Store (95 Main St., 877/755-2326, www.llbean.com), which is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. If the appeal of buying waterproof boots at 3am isn’t enough to tempt you, the indoor trout pond or archery and clay shooting lessons might.
With some of Maine’s most beloved brews, Maine Beer Company (525 Rte. 1, 201/221-5711, www.mainebeercompany.com, 11am-8pm Mon.-Sat., 11am-5pm Sun.) has a tasting room that keeps eight of its beers on tap—and you can watch the beer-in-progress through a big window onto the brewing facility.
Aside from the behemoth L.L. Bean outlet, much of Freeport’s big-name shopping is clustered in the Freeport Village Station (1 Freeport Village Station, www.onefreeportvillagestation.com, 10am-7pm Sun.-Thurs., 10am-8pm Fri.-Sat.) or along Main Street, including the Gap, Patagonia, Bass, and the North Face. Most stores open at 9am or 10am and remain open until 6pm or 7pm.
For a town that’s made shopping its raison d’être, it only makes sense that Black Friday—the massive sales day following Thanksgiving—would be a kind of official carnival, with midnight trains of shoppers arriving from Boston to live music and a celebratory atmosphere.
There are five miles of walking trails at Wolfe’s Neck Woods State Park (426 Wolfe’s Neck Rd., 207/865-4465, www.maine.gov, 9am-sunset daily, $6 adults, $4 seniors), which encompasses rocky shoreline, wetlands, and fields. A pair of ospreys returns each year to nest on an island just off the shore, and the park’s White Pines Trail offers a good vantage point over their territory from spring until they begin their long autumn trip to South America.
The L.L. Bean Outdoor Discovery School (15 Casco St., 888/552-3261, www.llbean.com/adventures) offers cross-country skiing and snowshoeing outings, and there are several parks groomed for cross-country skiing within the city limits. With views of the snowy shore and ocean, Winslow Park (30 Main St.) is good for both cross-country and snowshoeing, and although Wolfe’s Neck Woods State Park is officially closed, the ungroomed access road and trails are ideal for a winter outing.
Downtown Freeport is packed with national chain restaurants—like that “olde New Englande” McDonald’s—but there are plenty of local spots to recover from your shopping.
One favorite is the hunting lodge-like Broad Arrow Tavern (162 Main St., 207/865-9377, www.harraseeketinn.com, 11:30am-10pm daily, $15-30), where Maine classics line up alongside brick-oven pizza, hearty salads, and soups.
Get a taste of Freeport’s maritime past at Harraseeket Lunch and Lobster (36 Main St., South Freeport, 207/865-3535, www.harraseeketlunchandlobster.com, 11am-8:45pm daily Apr.-Oct. or end of season, $9-25), which leans a bit pricey for an outdoor lobster shack but has an unbeatable location at the edge of the marina.
For a quick, healthy lunch of sandwiches and salad, L.L. Bean’s 1912 Café (95 Main St., inside the store, 9am-7pm daily, $6-12) is a convenient option in the heart of the action, or head outside of town for a great bistro meal at Conundrum (117 Rte. 1, 207/865-0303, www.conundrumwinebistro.com, 4:30pm-10pm Tues.-Sat., $14-30), a cozy wine joint in the shadow of the “Big Indian,” a beloved local landmark.
Clean and family-run Casco Bay Inn (107 Rte. 1, 207/865-4925, www.cascobayinn.com, $101-175) may not be fancy, but it’s a short drive to downtown Freeport and a good value, with coffeemakers and fridges in the rooms as well as a basic continental breakfast.
Wonderfully friendly hosts and a hearty fresh breakfast make the Nicholson Inn (25 Main St., 207/618-9204, www.nicholsoninn.com, $130 s, $160 d) a relaxing option with a good location, period furnishings, and private baths, though young children may not be allowed. Prices drop in the off-season.
Once the home of Arctic explorer and Bowdoin grad Donald MacMillan, the White Cedar Inn Bed and Breakfast (178 Main St., 207/865-9099, www.whitecedarinn.com, $199-379) combines Victorian charm with modern touches like comfy beds, a guest pantry, common spaces, and a great breakfast, all within walking distance of downtown.
A shady cluster of quiet roads on 626 waterfront acres makes Recompence Shore Campground (134 Burnett Rd., 207/865-9307, www.freeportcamping.com, $28-52) a haven from the bustling downtown, with fun lobster bakes most Saturday nights and rustic waterfront cabins (from $155).
Freeport is located off I-295 and Route 1, 18 miles north of Portland. The Amtrak Downeaster (800/872-7245, www.amtrakdowneaster.com) stops in Freeport on the daily, round-trip route that links Boston and Brunswick, and there’s also a Greyhound (800/231-2222, www.greyhound.com) station in town. To reach Freeport from Portland, use the Metro BREEZ Express Bus Service (www.gpmetrobus.net, one-way fare $1.50-3), which has a stop by L.L. Bean.
The scattershot coast that spreads south from Route 1 is anchored by a pair of solid brick towns, and they’re a study in contrasts. Brunswick is home to Bowdoin College, which rambles outward from a picturesque campus filled with elite undergraduates and grand buildings named for famous alums. Nine miles west, Bath is all union halls, shipyards, and hulking ironworks, an industrial town that once launched the world’s grandest schooners.
Look closer, however, and the distinction blurs. Until it closed in 2011, the local naval air station meant that downtown pubs and cafés were likely to have as many service members as students, keeping Brunswick from feeling too precious. And while Bath’s riverfront still rings with the sound of shipbuilding and workers, the pretty center is full of cafés, shops, and bookstores run by the liberal-leaning, creative community.
On a state-sized map of Maine, both towns seem to be a breath away from the sea, but it would be easy to pass through Bath and Brunswick with nothing but river views. To experience the best parts of this scenic stretch of coast, drive south, looping into the long peninsulas; the tangled coastlines are classic Maine, with fishing villages, lobster shacks, and sheltered bays that appear around every bend in the road, making for idyllic driving at a leisurely pace.
The pretty campus of Bowdoin College (255 Maine St., 207/725-3000, www.bowdoin.edu) is all soaring oaks and grassy quads, and would be a worthwhile place to stroll even without the college’s two fascinating museums. The tiny Peary-MacMillan Arctic Museum (9500 College Station, 207/725-3416, www.bowdoin.edu/arctic-museum, 10am-5pm Tues.-Sat., 2pm-5pm Sun., free) traces the Arctic adventures of two Bowdoin graduates and explorers, Donald MacMillan and Robert Peary. In addition to stuffed arctic animals and one of the original dog sledges from the Peary expedition, a display honors Matthew Henson, an African American explorer who was the first known person to set foot at the pole and whose contributions to exploration went unrecognized until late in his life, when he was accepted to the New York Explorers Club at age 70. The other highlight on campus is the Bowdoin College Museum of Art (9400 College Station, 207/725-3275, www.bowdoin.edu/art-museum, 10am-5pm Tues.-Wed. and Fri.-Sat., 10am-8:30pm Thurs., noon-5pm Sun., free), where an eclectic—and sometimes exquisite—permanent collection is on display alongside exhibits encompassing everything from Renaissance painting to edgy critiques of contemporary culture.
While great views and a picturesque setting count for a great deal with most casual foodies, among devoted lobster roll hounds there’s a special thrill that comes with discovering a diamond in the rough. Libby’s Market (42 Jordan Ave., 207/729-7277, 3am-5pm Mon., 3am-7:30pm Tues.-Fri., 8am-7pm Sat., 4:30am-5pm Sun., $6-20) is a classic example: The unprepossessing convenience store has a short-order counter and a couple of picnic tables outside, but aside from a great pile of lobster traps and early, fisher-friendly hours, passersby would never guess it’s a lobster roll mecca. The classic rolls come in small, medium, or large, and the meat is more finely chopped than usual, with a heavier dose of mayo. A real locals’ favorite.
The best Mexican food in the Mid-Coast is served from a shiny truck just a few blocks from the Bowdoin campus. Taco the Town (205 Maine St., 207/632-4740, 10am-3pm Tues.-Sat., $4-9) has burritos, quesadillas, and classic tacos served with four kinds of house-made salsa. Cool off with a sweet, cinnamon-spiced horchata or a “cochata,” a delightfully innovative coffee-horchata blend.
Tucked into the back of a little gourmet and kitchen store, S Local Market (148 Maine St., 207/729-1328, www.localmarket04011.com, 9:30am-6pm Mon.-Sat., 9:30am-5pm Sun., $6-12) has a pair of big communal tables and a deli counter with sandwiches, salads, and soups prepared with plenty of fresh, local, and organic ingredients. The Cobb salad gets raves, as do hearty sandwiches made with bread from Portland’s Standard Baking Co.
The North Indian food at Shere Punjab (46 Maine St., 207/373-0422, www.sherepunjabme.com, 11am-3pm and 5pm-9pm Mon.-Thurs., 11am-9pm Fri.-Sat., noon-10pm Sun., $8-16) is full of rich flavors and spices—though the chef deftly tempers the heat for all palates. The vast menu includes a good selection of vegetarian options, and ranges from familiar classics like butter chicken to dishes less frequently seen on American menus such as aromatic, steamed lamb dilruba (a preparation including garlic, onion, ginger, and Indian spices), or syrupy, fried gulabjamun (a popular, milk-based Indian dessert). Decor is casual and cozy, and brightened up with Punjabi paintings and handicrafts.
Little Morning Glory Natural Foods (60 Main St., 207/729-0546, www.moglonf.com, 9am-7pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-6pm Sat., 10am-5pm Sun.) is stocked with local and organic options, as well as a good selection of picnic-ready items; also nearby is a Hannaford Supermarket (35 Elm St., 207/725-6683, 6am-11pm Mon.-Sat., 6am-9pm Sun.). Find cheese, lobsters, and locally baked bread at the Brunswick Farmers’ Market (Maine St., 8am-2pm Tues. and Fri. May-Nov.).
The Travelers Inn (130 Pleasant St., 207/729-3364, www.travelersinnme.com, $65-133) is an old-fashioned motel with well-kempt rooms. This is an especially good option for families, as some rooms have two beds, with cribs or rollaway cots available. The helpful staff is knowledgeable about the area, and a basic continental breakfast of bagels, fruit, coffee, and juice is served in the lobby.
Just across the Androscoggin River from downtown Brunswick, the Black Lantern Bed and Breakfast (57 Elm St., Topsham, 207/725-4165, www.blacklanternbandb.com, $125-160) is walking distance from a scenic bit of riverbank, and is a gracious, welcoming place to stay. Comfortable beds, en suite baths, hearty breakfasts, and old-fashioned charm are highlights, as are Judy and Tom, the super-friendly innkeeps.
With a location in the heart of downtown, the Brunswick Hotel & Tavern (4 Noble St., 207/837-6565, www.thebrunswickhotelandtavern.com, $175-350) is often filled with families visiting the nearby college, and it’s a comfortable place to enjoy the town. A gracious porch has rocking chairs and plenty of shade, well-appointed rooms are on the luxurious side of comfortable, and the train station is easy walking distance away. Don’t look for a mint on your pillow, but the homemade whoopie pies on the nightstand earn fervent praise.
The Brunswick Visitor Center (16 Station Ave., 207/721-0999, 10am-6:30pm daily) is adjacent to the Amtrak station.
The Amtrak Downeaster (800/872-7245, www.amtrakdowneaster.com) runs two trains a day from Boston to Brunswick, and Concord Coach Lines (100 Thompson’s Point Rd., Portland, 800/639-3317, www.concordcoachlines.com) operates buses from Boston and New York City that connect to Portland, where you can transfer to Brunswick.
Leave the main road behind as you explore the ends of the ragged coastline south of Brunswick, where Harpswell and Bailey Island extend rocky fingers into the ocean. It’s easily worth the trip for the views and a walk along the shore, but each destination has excellent seafood if you need another excuse.
Passing blocky ledges that catch crashing surf, the 0.5 mile Giant Stairs Trail (parking at 19 Ocean St., Bailey Island) picks its way along the coast to Thunder Hole—a common enough name for formations that boom in heavy waves. You’ll see crystallized quartz pressed into the metamorphosed sedimentary rock, split by seams of dark basalt that have worn away from between the chunks of stone.
It would be easy to pass over Cribstone Bridge from Orr’s Island to Bailey Island without a second glance, but the 1,150-foot span is an engineering marvel. The only bridge of its kind in the United States (or the world—accounts differ), it’s built with granite “cribstones” from a quarry in Yarmouth, the heavy stones laid without mortar in a latticework that allows the powerful tides to sweep through unhindered. Some 10,000 tons of granite were used to build the 1928 bridge, which is a Historic Civil Engineering Landmark, and forever changed life in Bailey Island.
A pair of seafood stops anchors each side of the cribstone bridge to Bailey Island. The Salt Cod Cafe (1894 Harpswell Island Rd., Orr’s Island, 207/833-6210, 8am-5pm daily late May-early Oct., hours vary at beginning and end of season) has blueberry pie and quick bites that can be eaten by the shore. Across the bridge is Morse’s Cribstone Grill (1495 Harpswell Island Rd., Bailey Island, 207/833-7775, 11:30am-8pm Mon.-Thurs., 11:30am-9pm Fri.-Sat., noon-8pm Sun., $8-30), whose deck has perfect views back toward the water. Morse’s serves the usual seafood fare, plus “twin” lobster dinners for ambitious eaters.
With views to Bailey Island and beyond, Dolphin Marina and Restaurant (515 Basin Point Rd., Harpswell, 207/833-6000, 11:30am-8pm daily, $12-28) would be a sublime place to dine on a plate of rocks, so the nice quality of the international seafood menu is an added bonus. Many entrées come with a mystifying (but welcome) blueberry muffin on the side.
If you’d prefer your eats from a takeout window, the nearby Erica’s Seafood (6 Malcolm Dr., Harpswell, 207/833-7354, www.ericasseafood.com, 11am-7pm daily May-Oct., $7-16) is a popular shack with haddock sandwiches, lobster rolls, and crisp, slender fries. The outdoor picnic tables are right by a working wharf, so you can watch the day’s catch arrive on local fishing boats.
Part of a network of islands and peninsulas that extend south of Brunswick, Bailey Island and Harpswell are accessed by Route 24 and Route 123, respectively. For an especially scenic drive, take Route 24 from Brunswick to Bailey Island, then backtrack to Mountain Road, which links to Route 123, where you can drive south to the end of Harpswell, or return to Brunswick.
Upstanding and brick lined, this is a city that’s launched fleets around the world, from tall ships to modern-day military vessels. Bath still lives and breathes the sea, and the Kennebec River bristles with cranes, but it’s the maritime past that’s most enchanting for visitors, from the transporting exhibits at the Maine Maritime Museum to Maine’s First Ship, a quirky project that’s resurrecting a colonial-era pinnace. And beyond the city, it’s worth getting sidetracked on your way to some of the Mid-Coast’s best beaches and lobster rolls.
Wide, deep, and sheltered from the raging sea, the Kennebec River is the perfect place for building and launching ships; indeed, the first oceangoing ship built by English shipwrights in the Americas—the Virginia of Sagadahoc—was constructed here, a 30-ton pinnace measuring less than 50 feet from stem to stern. That ship was just the beginning, and in the mid-18th century, shipbuilding was a roaring industry, with a couple-dozen shipyards launching merchant, naval, and pleasure vessels connecting this clattering town in rural Maine with every corner of the globe.
One of those shipyards, Percy & Small, has been transformed into the wonderful Maine Maritime Museum (243 Washington St., 207/443-1316, www.mainemaritimemuseum.org, 9:30am-5pm daily, $16 adults, $14.50 seniors, $10 youth 6-12, children under 6 free), a sprawling 20-acre site with exhibits on the state’s seafaring traditions.
The yard is dominated by a soaring metal skeleton that evokes the Percy & Small-built Wyoming, the largest schooner ever made. (Most of the sculpture’s proportions are true to size, but the masts stop short of Wyoming’s 177 feet, as the full-sized version would require warning lights for passing aircraft.) Other highlights include reproductions of a shipyard’s various workstations, in-depth explorations of lobstering on the Maine coast, and exhibits illustrating the many sides of New England’s maritime traditions. Tickets are good for a second visit within a seven-day period, and admission is free if you join one of the museum’s scenic cruises.
In a tiny shipyard in downtown Bath, a quixotic, creative group of volunteers is reconstructing the Virginia of Sagadahoc based on the (very) sketchy descriptions that have survived from colonial times. In keeping with the lighthearted, ad hoc attitude of the group, some building materials are recycled, and bits of the ship’s framework retain printing from former lives. But the wooden-pegged skeleton is smart as can be, and it’s a treat to stop by during construction. Meet the building crew of Maine’s First Ship (1 Front St., 207/433-4242, www.mfship.org, 11am-3pm Fri.-Sun. June-early July, 10am-3pm Tues.-Sat., 11am-3pm Sun. early July-early Sept., 11am-3pm Fri.-Sun. early Sept.-early Oct.) on open-build days, or visit any time to peek through the fence as the pinnace takes shape.
Most of the year, Bath Iron Works (700 Washington St., 207/443-3311, www.gdbiw.com) is off-limits to the public. That changes during one of its infrequent but spectacular ship launchings. Then the whole town comes out for the celebration, and flags, food, and local dignitaries fill the waterfront to break champagne on the hull.
With a broad swath of soft sand, Popham Beach State Park (10 Perkins Farm Ln., Phippsburg, 207/389-1335, $8 adults, $2 seniors, $1 children 5-11, children under 5 free), is more Miami than Mid-Coast, one of the most beloved beaches in Maine. It’s hemmed in by a pair of rivers—the Kennebec and Morse Rivers reach the ocean here—and when the tide goes out, you can walk to tiny Fox Island that’s just off the beach (beware of getting stranded).
Popham’s charms mean it can be jam-packed on busy days, so plan to arrive early, or head to the nearby Reid State Park (375 Seguinland Rd., Georgetown, 207/371-2303, 9am-sunset daily, $8 adults, $2 seniors, $1 children 5-11, children under 5 free), where you’ll find two sandy beaches framed by rocky outcroppings, a headland with great views to Seguin Island lighthouse, and breaking waves for some of the best surfing in Maine.
Get an up close look at the hulking naval ships in Bath’s floating dry docks on one of Maine Maritime Museum’s hour-long Shipyards & Lighthouses Cruises (243 Washington St., 207/443-1316, www.mainemaritimemuseum.org, noon and 2pm daily mid-June-early Sept., $34 adults, $18.50 youth 6-12, $5 children under 6, ticket prices include museum admission), which also passes by the Doubling Point Lighthouse and Kennebec Range Lights. Check the website for longer tours that go farther afield, which are available more sporadically.
Another wonderful way to explore the coastline is by hopping a boat to Seguin Island (207/443-4808, www.seguinisland.org), where Maine’s tallest lighthouse sends beams over 20 miles to sea from a first-order Fresnel lens that’s been used since 1857. Make the 30-minute trip on the passenger-only Seguin Island Ferry (Popham Beach, 207/841-7977, www.fishntripsmaine.com, 11am departure, 2:30pm return Sun.-Tues. and Thurs.-Fri. July-Aug., some trips available June and Sept., round-trip $30 adults, $25 children 12 and under, $40 overnights), and spend a few hours exploring beaches, trails, and the lighthouse itself.
While the menu of pub classics and seafood is pretty ordinary (and reportedly inconsistent), that’s not really the point at Kennebec Tavern & Marina (119 Commercial St., 207/442-9636, www.kennebectavern.com, 11am-9pm Sun.-Thurs., 11am-10pm Fri.-Sat., $9-30), which boasts a fabulous outdoor seating area that juts out into the current of the Kennebec River, offering great views of passing boats. On cool days, there’s not much to tempt diners into the bland dining room, but summer afternoons are the perfect time to relax in the shade with a cold beer and a pile of fried scallops.
reconstructing Maine’s “first ship” in Bath
Tucked belowground on a sloping side street, Starlight Cafe (15 Lambard St., 207/443-3005, 7am-2pm Tues.-Fri., 8am-2pm Sat., $6-13) has a quirky dining room filled with hand-painted chairs and vintage Trivial Pursuit cards so diners can pass the time while waiting for hearty breakfasts and comforting lunch plates. Enormous raspberry pancakes, the turkey-stuffed Thanksgiving Sandwich, and haddock chowder are all favorites, and the friendly staff is pure local charm.
As the name suggests, stepping into The Cabin (552 Washington St., 207/443-6224, www.cabinpizza.com, 10am-10pm daily, $8-14) feels like ducking below the deck of an old ship. Nautical bric-a-brac and dark wood complete the effect, and while the pizza might not live up to its claims of “Best in Maine,” it’s pretty darn good all the same. Chewy crusts, generous toppings, and addictive, bready garlic knots keep this a favorite with locals and visitors. No credit cards.
With views of the action in the heart of historic Bath, Café Crème (56 Front St., 207/443-6454, 7:30am-5:30pm Mon.-Sat., 8:30am-5:30pm Sun., $2-8) is the place to watch the town drift by with a cup of chai or cappuccino. This little coffee shop has wireless Internet, plenty of tables, and sweet and savory treats made by a local baker.
Pick up organic produce and bulk items at Bath Natural Market (36 Centre St., www.bathnaturalmarket.com, 9am-6pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-5pm Sat., noon-4pm Sun.), or visit Brackett’s Market IGA (185 Front St., 207/443-2012, 7am-8pm daily), a small, locally owned grocery store by the waterfront. Local farmers and producers operate the thriving, year-round Bath Farmers Market (Waterfront Park, Commercial St., 8:30am-noon Sat.May-Oct.; Bath Freight Shed, 27 Commercial St., 9am-noon Sat. Nov.-Apr., www.bathfarmersmarket.com).
South of Bath in Georgetown, S Five Islands Lobster Co. (1447 Five Islands Rd., Georgetown, 207/371-2990, www.fiveislandslobster.com, check website or call for hours before visiting, $8-18) regularly makes “best of” lists for lobster rolls, steamers, and fried oysters, and it’s right on the way to Reid State Park. This is a classic waterside joint with picnic tables and views of a picture-perfect bay dotted with tiny forested islands.
Cheerfully quirky and fresh as can be, North Creek Farm (24 Sebasco Rd., Phippsburg, 207/389-1341, www.northcreekfarm.org, 9am-6:30pm daily, café 11:30am-3:30pm Mon.-Sat., 9am-2pm Sun., $3-12) is a little bit flower nursery, a little bit country store, and a little bit café. Order a Reuben sandwich with kimchi and it comes decked in blossoms, and the homemade baked goods and fruit pies are a special treat. A Sunday morning brunch menu includes sweet and savory treats and farm eggs every way. With just a couple of small tables in the café, ordering food to-go is a good option.
Ten minutes south of downtown Bath, the Winnegance Restaurant and Bakery (36 High St., 207/443-3300, 6am-4pm daily, $4-11) is a popular stopover for day-trippers on their way to Popham Beach. Scones and muffins are baked fresh in the back of the old-fashioned shop, and a few small tables are available for enjoying breakfasts of pancakes or eggs and bacon, or homemade soup and sandwiches.
Many bed-and-breakfasts in the area are members of Mid-Coast Maine Inns (www.midcoastmaineinns.com), which posts a helpful spreadsheet of available rooms in the area that is usually up to date. While staying in Bath is most convenient, a few wonderful campgrounds and a historic inn are tucked down the peninsula by the water, away from the bustle of Route 1.
Simple, sweet, and neat as a pin, New Meadows River Cottages (4 Armstrong Way, West Bath, 207/442-9299, www.newmeadowsrivercottages.com, $89-109) are nothing fancy, but the stand-alone rooms have a double bed or double and single as well as air-conditioning, coffeemakers, fridges, and little sitting areas; higher rates are for cottages with kitchenettes.
Gardens surrounding The Inn at Bath (969 Washington St., Bath, 207/808-7904, www.innatbath.com, $150-190) are overflowing with blooming rhododendrons and wild mountain laurel, and the interior of the Greek Revival-style building is full of art and unfussy antiques. The quiet neighborhood is about a 15-minute walk from downtown Bath, and breakfasts are an appealing spread of fresh fruit, granola, and one hot option. All rooms have private baths and air-conditioning, but they differ widely in style and decor, and one room opens onto the kitchen.
Historic and beautiful, the S 1774 Inn (44 Parker Head Rd., Phippsburg, 207/389-1774, www.1774inn.com, $180-260) is among the most romantic places to stay along the coast, with chairs tucked around its sprawling grounds that abut the Kennebec River. Though the inn is just 7.5 miles south of Bath, the experience is serene and secluded. Many of the rooms, which vary widely in style, are exquisite, and guests rave about the thoughtful breakfasts. For an ultra-private experience, book the more rustic Woodshed Room, a self-contained suite near the river with a private veranda and stunning views.
Splash out for an oceanfront spot at S Hermit Island Campground (6 Hermit Island Rd., Phippsburg, 207/443-2101, www.hermitisland.com, $39-63) and you’ll get prime views of sandy beaches and coastline. This is a 25-minute drive from Bath, and snagging one means planning ahead (the by-mail reservation system is byzantine), but even the “value” sites are within easy strolling distance of the shore. No credit cards.
A little bit closer to Route 1, Meadowbrook Camping Area (33 Meadowbrook Rd., Phippsburg, 207/443-4967, www.meadowbrookme.com, tents $31-33, hookups $35-43) has smallish sites that are a tad too closely set in woods and an open meadow, with many campers who come for the whole season, but you can sign up for daily lobster dinners and have a feast at your site or the communal outdoor seating area.
Camping is permitted on Seguin Island, accessible by ferry from Phippsburg’s Popham Beach, mid-May-early October (207/443-4808, www.seguinisland.org, minimum $50 donation). There’s no running water, but composting toilet facilities are provided. Reservations are required.
The Bath Regional Information Center (15 Commercial St., 207/442-7291, www.visitbath.com, 9am-7pm daily mid-Apr.-Dec., 9am-7pm Mon.-Fri. Jan.-mid-Apr.) has great resources and advice for the entire Mid-Coast area, and its website is frequently updated with tours and events in town.
Bath is located on Route 1 on the banks of the Kennebec River, a 35-minute drive from Portland. South of Bath, the highway gives way to small, winding roads: follow Route 209 to Phippsburg, or Route 127 to Georgetown. Bus service to Bath is available from Greyhound (214/849-8966, www.greyhound.com). Concord Coach Lines (100 Thompson’s Point Rd., Portland, 800/639-3317, www.concordcoachlines.com) operates buses from Boston and New York City that connect to Portland, where you can transfer to Brunswick.
Parking in Bath is free for up to two hours on the street or in municipal lots on Commercial, School, and Water Streets. The town website (www.cityofbath.com) has maps for both “Parking” and “Secret Parking.” A convenient way to see Bath car-free is the Bath Trolley (207/443-8363, www.cityofbath.com, $1), which runs every 30 minutes on a fixed loop that connects the Winnegance General Store with the Maine Maritime Museum and downtown.
Wiscasset’s self-branding as the “prettiest village in Maine” might not convince passing visitors, who often remember the map-dot town more for its notorious bottleneck traffic. Get away from the backup, though, and the old-fashioned community is perfectly charming, with much of its downtown listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
The town’s self-guided walking tour offers a perfect ramble through old captain’s homes and federal-style mansions, with informative plaques along the way. Start the tour at the large plaque adjacent to Sarah’s Café (45 Water St.), and pick up a brochure that traces the picturesque route. Most of the stops are great for just wandering by, but it’s worth popping inside Castle Tucker (2 Lee St., 207/882-7169, 11am-4pm Wed.-Sun. June-mid-Oct., tours every 30 minutes, $8 adults, $7 seniors, $4 students), an 1807 captain’s home overlooking the river with Victorian furnishings and a stunning spiral staircase.
Unsurprisingly, Wiscasset is a major center for antiquing, with more than two dozen shops filled with everything distressed, restored, and charmingly shabby. A sprawling collection of pieces from many dealers can be found at Wiscasset Village Antiques (536 Rte. 1, 207/882-4029, www.wiscassetvillageantiques.com, 9am-7pm daily); find a more curated collection of European textiles and furnishings at The Marston House (101 Main St., 207/882-6010, www.marstonhouse.com, noon-5pm Thurs.-Sun., or by appointment), which specializes in homespun pieces from the 18th-19th centuries. Pick up treasures with a more contemporary aesthetic at Rock Paper Scissors (68 Main St., 207/882-9930, 10am-5pm Mon.-Sat., noon-5pm Sun.), a pretty gift shop stocked with quirky stationery and dreamy gifts.
Yet another top contender on annual “best lobster roll” lists, Red’s Eats (41 Water St., 207/882-6128, 11:30am-10pm daily, $7-25, cash only) is a James Beard Award-winning shack that fills its buns with a pound of drawn (not chopped) meat, served with a little cup of clarified butter on the side. Picnic tables and umbrellas with views of the water are available on-site, but note two drawbacks to eating at Red’s: The line can stretch upwards of an hour at busy times, and it’s located right beside the idling cars stuck in Wiscasset traffic. Just across the street is Sprague’s Lobster (22 Main St., 207/882-1236, 11am-8pm daily, $7-20); it hasn’t racked up the same list of awards as Red’s, but sells similar lobster rolls at a lower price (albeit with somewhat less meat).
Half country bakery, half gourmet store, Treats of Maine (80 Main St., 207/882-6192, www.treatsofmaine.com, 7:30am-5:30pm Mon.-Sat., 10am-4pm Sun., $3-7) serves pastries ranging from down-home to gourmet, with hefty chocolate babkas, fruit scones, muffins, and layered French confections. The long counter is a welcome place to enjoy a sweet and cup of coffee, but this place excels at takeout feasts of quiche, wine, cheese, and dessert.
A nondescript exterior hides the tasteful dining room at Little Village Bistro (65 Gardiner Rd., 207/687-8232, www.littlevillagebistro.com, 4:30pm-9pm Tues.-Sat., $11-20), which turns out to be a sweet haven with well-prepared, classic cuisine. Regulars love the crab cake appetizers and wild mushroom pizza, and the menu of simple pastas, braised Italian-style meats, and fresh seafood is full of flavor and thoughtful touches. Reservations are recommended.
Walking distance from Wiscasset’s historic downtown, the Snow Squall Inn (5 Bradford Rd., 207/882-6892, www.snowsquallinn.com, $95-180) is all comfort and relaxation. Rooms are bright and uncluttered, with soft linens and simple furnishings, and the well-traveled, gracious owners prepare a fabulous breakfast each morning, with hot and cold options. The property includes a barn that’s been converted into an airy yoga studio, and classes are offered throughout the day (www.wickedgoodyoga.com, $14).
With a convenient location on Route 1, the pet-friendly Wiscasset Woods Lodge (596 Rte. 1, 207/882-7137, www.wiscassetwoods.com, $90-200) runs right up against the forest, where there’s a short hiking trail, a bocce court, and a fire pit for guest use (complete with s’more-making supplies). The feel is more woodsy motel than lodge, but the friendly owners serve a hearty hot breakfast that sets it apart from the other options along the highway.
Wiscasset, and the town’s famously backed-up bridge, is located on Route 1, roughly 50 minutes from Portland. Bus service to Wiscasset is available from Greyhound (214/849-8966, www.greyhound.com) and Concord Coach Lines (100 Thompson’s Point Rd., Portland, 800/639-3317, www.concordcoachlines.com).
Ask a native Mainer for directions on the Mid-Coast, and you’re likely to hear the classic refrain: “You can’t get there from here!” The Boothbay and Pemaquid Peninsulas, accessible from Route 1 via Wiscasset and Damariscotta, respectively, are separated by a river that opens onto jagged bays, which means the lobster shacks, gardens, and lighthouses that rim the sea are much farther apart than they appear on a map. These two peninsulas are also the primary access points for boat tours to Eastern Egg Rock, a seven-acre island whose granite shoreline offers a unique habitat for puffins, guillemots, and dozens of other nesting and migratory birds. It’s the first of its kind, a restored colony, the success of which inspired dozens of imitators worldwide, as scientists work to protect the dwindling seabird population.
Boothbay is a scenic stretch of bays that culminates in the town of Boothbay Harbor, the pinnacle of Maine’s fudge and T-shirt shop kitsch. It’s beyond hectic during school vacation months, but with dozens of ways to get out on the water, it’s easy to see why the spot is so beloved.
Pathways overflowing with native species, shady groves of rhododendrons, and 125 acres of carefully tended plants roll right to the water’s edge at Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens (132 Botanical Gardens Dr., 207/633-8000, www.mainegardens.org, 9am-5pm daily mid-Apr.-Oct., $16 adults, $14 seniors, $8 children 3-18, children under 3 free), one the finest in New England. Free tours of the highlights are scheduled at 11am daily, with additional tours of native plants and rare specimens offered once a week. The garden also organizes one-hour tours up the Back River on The Beagle, a small, blessedly quiet electric boat; when bundled with garden admission, the boat tour costs approximately $20 per person, making it an affordable way to enjoy the coast.
Halfway down the Boothbay Peninsula, the Boothbay Railway Village (586 Wiscasset Rd., 207/633-4727, www.railwayvillage.org, 10am-5pm daily late May-mid-Oct., $12 adults, $10 seniors, $6 children 3-18, children under 3 free) is a highlight for many families with children. The narrow-gauge steam train that circles the village might be the star attraction, but trains are just the beginning of this 10-acre village. Old-fashioned filling stations and homes are interspersed with displays of antique cars and firefighting equipment, blacksmithing demonstrations, baby goats, and model trains.
At the tip of the Boothbay Peninsula are five lighthouses, of which four can be spotted by driving around Routes 96, 27, and 238. At the very tip of Route 96, the little Ram Island Light is visible from Ocean Point. Make a counterclockwise loop of the more westerly Southport Island to see Hendricks Head Light off Beach Road in West Southport; the offshore Cuckolds Lighthouse, visible from the tip of Town Landing Road at the southern extreme of the island; and Burnt Island Light, best seen from Capitol Island Road. Get a taste of what life was like on an island lighthouse station by joining a fascinating boat tour to Burnt Island (Pier 8, Boothbay Harbor, 207/633-2284, www.balmydayscruises.com, 1:45pm Mon. and Thurs. July-Aug., $25 adults, $15 children, children under 3 free), where actors portray the family of an early 20th-century lighthouse keeper. It’s common to spot seals and porpoises during the 15-minute boat ride to the island, and the 2.5-hour island portion includes a nature walk and time to explore the scenic trails.
Boothbay Harbor’s pretty waterfront is bright with sails and flying colors as the town kicks off summer with Windjammer Days (www.windjammerdays.org, late June), which includes the annual Blessing of the Fleet.
The Boothbay Peninsula doesn’t have much sand to break up its rocky headlands, but Barrett Park (Lobster Cove Rd., Boothbay Harbor) is a nice place to enjoy the water views. Two rock beaches make for good tidepooling at low tide and have shady picnic tables, swings, and bathroom facilities.
A seven-acre sprawl of granite boulders and low-lying vegetation, Eastern Egg Rock doesn’t look like a very cozy nesting ground, but the wildlife sanctuary was the first restored seabird colony in the world. Nesting seabird populations have been hard-hit by hunters, egg collectors, fishing practices, and pollution, and until the restoration process began, puffins hadn’t shacked up here since 1885. Puffins are now on the island mid-June-August.
From Boothbay Harbor, book a trip with Cap’n Fish’s (42 Commercial St., Boothbay Harbor, 207/633-3244, www.mainepuffin.com, 2.5-hour puffin tour $35 adults, $20 children 12 and under, $15 dogs; 4-hour puffin and whale tour $75 adults, $45 youth 6-14, $30 children under 6, $15 dogs), whose puffin cruises, accompanied by an Audubon naturalist, pass three lighthouses and scattered islands on the way out to Eastern Egg Rock. The company’s combination puffin and whale cruises commonly spot finback and minke whales, as well as the humpback whales that arrive on the coast in July.
With a mid-peninsula location just past the Boothbay botanical gardens, Trevett Country Store (381 W. Barter’s Island Rd., Trevett, 207/633-1140, 7am-8pm daily, $5-20) might seem like a back-road convenience store, but it’s a local favorite for sandwiches, simple breakfasts, and fresh seafood. In warm months, the outdoor sundeck is a charming place to eat, with water views and a cool breeze.
All cedar shake and dark wood, the Watershed Tavern (301 Adams Pond Rd., 207/633-3411, www.boothbaycraftbrewery.com, 4:30pm-8pm Wed.-Sat., $12-29) has the kind of cave-like interior best enjoyed when the weather turns blustery. The food includes a fairly standard pub lineup of burgers, salads, and pizzas, but with some meat from local farms and appealing house-made additions. This is the brewpub side of Boothbay Craft Brewery (207/633-3411, www.boothbaycraftbrewery.com, tours $5), which runs 30-minute tours at 3pm daily, followed by a beer tasting. Naturally, those beers are on tap at the tavern: Brews range from super-drinkable session ales to imperial stouts and red IPAs.
A destination for sophisticated, traditional food, S Ports of Italy (47 Commercial St., 207/633-1011, www.portsofitaly.com, 4:30pm-9pm daily May-Dec., $18-34) stands head and shoulders above the crowded Boothbay Harbor restaurant scene. Thoughtful service and consistently high-quality food, an excellent wine list, and pleasant seating on an outdoor patio make this a good choice for a romantic evening or celebration. Reservations are essential.
Casual cousin to the attached Thistle Inn, the Dory Pub (55 Oak St., Boothbay Harbor, 877/633-3541, www.thethistleinn.com, 5pm-close Tues.-Sat., $10-16) serves a simpler, solid menu in a fun space. Cozy up to the bar—made from an actual dory boat—for burgers, crab cakes, or piles of Maine mussels steamed in white wine. Great cocktails and an extensive beer and wine list make this a nice first stop of the evening for drinks and snacks.
Vendors from around the region set up stalls at Boothbay Farmers’ Market (1 Common Dr., www.boothbayfarmersmarket.com, 9am-noon Thurs. mid-May-early Oct.).
Like a Polynesian imu or Maya p’ib, the classic method of cooking up a New England lobster is using a pit oven lined with rocks and heated with a blazing fire. The pit is then filled with seaweed, lobsters, clams, and corn on the cob, covered with more seaweed (along with some sand or tarps), and left to cook for hours, infusing everything inside with a briny tang. Aside from swapping out the sand pit for some giant, wood-fired steamers, Cabbage Island Clambakes (Pier 6, Boothbay Harbor, 207/633-7200, www.cabbageislandclambakes.com, mid-June-mid-Oct., 4-hour boat tour and clambake $63) does them in classic Maine style. The family-run operation takes a slow cruise to Cabbage Island, where you’ll sit down to two steamed lobsters, white clams, fish chowder, new potatoes, and corn, followed by blueberry cake and coffee. The experience is simply one of the finest ways to get a taste of this traditional feast in Maine.
By a quiet lake between the botanical gardens and downtown Boothbay Harbor, the motel-like S Beach Cove Waterfront Inn (48 Lakeview Rd., Boothbay Harbor, 207/633-0353, www.beachcovehotel.com, $99-215) is a great budget option. All rooms have views of the water and come stocked with a fridge, microwave, and coffeemaker, and a small continental breakfast is served in the lobby. Decor is simple and a bit dated, and some visitors find the walls overly thin, but staying at the inn gets you free access to a fleet of canoes and rowboats to enjoy on the lake.
With a great location on the quieter, southeastern side of the harbor, Brown’s Wharf Inn (121 Atlantic Ave., Boothbay Harbor, 207/633-5440, www.brownswharfinn.com, $175-225) is a 15-minute walk to downtown shops and restaurants. Balconies in the water-facing rooms have great views across the harbor, and while the bathrooms are a bit cramped, rooms have plenty of space to spread out.
Gorgeous lawns roll from a rambling farmhouse to the water’s edge at the Bold Colorful Life Inn (802 Back River Rd., 207/633-6566, www.boldcolorlifeinn.com, $129-209), a laid-back estate that’s halfway down the Boothbay Peninsula. Enjoy the quiet spot in a hammock, or wander the trails and gardens. Common spaces include a great room with a piano and bookshelves, and the unsurprisingly bright and colorful rooms have private baths. The inn is run by a welcoming psychotherapist and life coach.
Isolated and luxurious, S The Inn at Cuckolds Lighthouse (40 Town Landing Rd., Southport, 855/212-5252, www.innatcuckoldslighthouse.com, $350-600) is on a small island south of Boothbay and among the most romantic places to stay in Maine. The 1892 lighthouse has just two suites—book the whole darn island if you want a really private experience—and high-end amenities. Boat transportation to the island, afternoon tea and cocktails, and views of crashing waves make this a place apart, and all transportation and treats are included in the price of a night’s stay.
Drift off to the sound of crashing waves at Gray’s Homestead Campground (21 Homestead Rd., Southport, 207/633-4612, www.graysoceancamping.com, sites $48-53), an old-fashioned and friendly spot four miles south of Boothbay Harbor. Fire rings and a swimming beach give the campground a holiday atmosphere, and it also has laundry facilities, hot showers, and a dump station.
The Boothbay Harbor Region Chamber of Commerce (192 Townsend Ave., Boothbay Harbor, 207/633-2353, www.boothbayharbor.com, 8am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 10am-4pm Sat.-Sun. mid-May-early Oct., 8am-5pm Mon.-Fri. early Oct.-mid-May) runs a visitors center at its office.
Boothbay Harbor is located at the southern end of the Boothbay Peninsula, accessed by Route 27, a spur that leaves Route 1 at Wiscasset (13 mi, 20 min.). There is currently no public transport to Boothbay Harbor.
The only place in this region where parking is an issue is in Boothbay Harbor, where it’s worth leaving your car in one of the town’s metered lots; the largest is adjacent to the town office (11 Harbor St., Boothbay Harbor, $1 per hour, $7 full day). That town also has the only noteworthy in-town transit, the Rocktide Trolley, a free sightseeing trolley that makes a limited loop through downtown starting from the Rocktide Inn (35 Atlantic Ave., Boothbay Harbor, 207/633-4455, www.rocktideinn.com).
Across the Damariscotta River from the Boothbay Peninsula, the Pemaquid Peninsula is just as scenic, and blissfully uncrowded. The main reason travelers venture down Route 129 toward Pemaquid Point is the Pemaquid Point Light, a lonely tower that looks out at a gorgeous sweep of coastline, but it’s worth lingering for a day on the beach or a wildlife-spotting trip to Eastern Egg Rock, a barren islet that’s paradise for nesting puffins. At the head of the peninsula, Damariscotta is full of small-town charm and historic homes, an easy place to while away an afternoon or a weekend.
Crashing waves and jagged rocks are the perfect setting for Pemaquid Point Light (3115 Bristol Rd., New Harbor, 207/677-2492, www.visitmaine.com, 9am-5pm daily early May-late Oct., $3). Classic calendar material, it was commissioned by John Quincy Adams and is considered by many the loveliest of New England’s lights—by popular vote, its image landed on the Maine state quarter. Climb a wrought-iron spiral staircase to the top of the tower for a seagull’s-eye view of the craggy headland, and get an up close look at the fourth-order Fresnel lens, one of just six in the state. After exploring the tower and clambering around the rocks, it’s worth stopping in to the adjoining keeper’s house, where the Fisherman’s Museum (207/677-2494, 10:30am-5pm daily mid-May-mid-Oct., free) displays mementos of the lobstering life. Also on-site is the Pemaquid Art Gallery (207/677-2752, 10am-5pm daily early June-late Oct.), which displays juried work from local artists.
Three forts were raised and destroyed at the gaping mouth of the Pemaquid River as fur traders, pirates, the English, Native Americans, the French, and early settlers scrapped for control of the strategic stronghold. Colonial Pemaquid State Historic Site (2 Colonial Pemaquid Dr., New Harbor, 207/677-2423, www.friendsofcolonialpemaquid.org, 9am-5pm daily late May-late Aug., $4 adults, $1 seniors, children under 12 free) offers a look at those tumultuous times, with historical reenactments, demonstrations, and nicely preserved structures. Fort William Henry is the centerpiece of the site (and a reconstruction of the second fort built here), where a trio of flags fly above a stone tower; the fort’s permanent exhibit explores the intersection of fur trading and politics in the early years of European settlement. The sprawling grounds offer plenty to explore, including a visitors center museum, an 18th-century cemetery, and an herb garden stocked with plants that 17th-century settlers used for food and medicine, and the seaside site is a pleasant place to bring a picnic.
During the warming days of May and early June, hundreds of thousands of alewives make the trip to Damariscotta Lake, traveling over a fish ladder that was first built in 1807, then restored in 2010. A few hundred years ago, these fish, a kind of herring, would have been ubiquitous in Maine’s streams, but these days they’re far less common. To catch the alewife run, with fish squirming between rocks as they travel upriver, head to the Damariscotta Mills Fish Ladder (www.damariscottamills.org); from the intersection of Route 215 and Route 1, take Route 215 north for 1.6 miles, where you’ll see a small parking area on your left. In season, the website is updated with the latest whereabouts of the alewives.
Just south of Colonial Pemaquid is the appealing Pemaquid Beach Park (Snowball Hill Rd., Bristol, 207/677-2754, 8am-5pm daily, $4 adults, children under 12 free), a 0.25 mile of pristine white sands with a concession stand, boogie board, umbrella, and beach chair rentals, and nice views along the coast.
Just five miles from Eastern Egg Rock, Hardy Boat Cruises (132 Rte. 32, New Harbor, 207/677-2026, www.hardyboat.com, 1.5-hour puffin tour $32 adults, $12 children 2-11, children under 2 free) is just five miles from Eastern Egg Rock and runs early evening trips with an Audubon naturalist aboard—it’s a good chance to catch the puffins rafting together in the water and lounging on the rocks. Hardy operates a somewhat smaller boat than the tours that operate from Boothbay Harbor, meaning fewer crowds and a slightly rougher ride when waves are choppy.
The old-timey treats at Waltz’s Soda Fountain (167 Main St., Damariscotta, 207/563-7632, 7am-4pm Mon.-Sat., $2-9) are right at home in Damariscotta’s brick-and-window glass downtown. Twirl on the red leather stools, sip an egg cream or ice cream soda, or go all-out with a sundae under gobs of hot fudge sauce. A simple menu of sandwiches and snacks is also available, albeit overshadowed by the creamier options.
An outlier among Mid-Coast lobster shacks and bistros, Best Thai (74 Main St., Damariscotta, 207/5633-1440, www.bestthaimaine.com, noon-3pm and 4pm-8:30pm Tues.-Sat., lunch $8-11, dinner $12-17) really does serve the best Thai food in the region (until you hit its sister restaurant in Bath). Panang curry and noodle dishes are consistently good, and the tom kha (chicken soup) gets rave reviews.
Find sweet treats and the best breakfasts in town at Crissy’s Breakfast & Coffee Bar (212 Main St., Damariscotta, 207/563-6400, www.cbandcb.com, 8am-2pm daily, $3-11). Gluten-free rice bowls are piled with meat, eggs, and veggies, while breakfast sandwiches are generous and served alongside crispy home fries. The lunch menu is also served all day, a savory mix of sandwiches, burritos, and salads.
Pemaquid’s take on lobster “in the rough,” the S Pemaquid Fisherman’s Co-Op (32 Co-op Rd., Pemaquid, 207/677-2642, noon-7:30pm daily, $7-25) has the seafood, and you can bring the fixings. Bring beer or wine—some regulars even bring their own side salads—to go with whole lobsters swabbed in melted butter, steamers, and crabs. Outside seating offers great views of the Pemaquid River.
Find all the basics at Yellowfront Grocery (5 Coastal Market Dr., Damariscotta, 207/563-3507, 7am-8pm Mon.-Sat., 8am-7pm Sun.), or visit Rising Tide Community Market (323 Main St., Damariscotta, 207/563-5556, www.risingtide.coop, 8am-8pm daily), a cooperatively owned natural food store that also has a deli and café.
The Damariscotta Farmers Market (www.damariscottafarmersmarket.org) has two locations for its Monday and Friday markets. On Monday early June-late September, find the vendors at the Rising Tide Community Market (323 Main St., 3pm-6pm Mon.), and on Friday mid-May-late October, farmers set up at Round Top Farm (3 Round Top Rd., 9am-noon Fri.).
You’ll have your own sweet little place on the beach at Ye Olde Forte Cabins (18 Old Fort Road, Pemaquid Beach, 207/677-2261, www.yeoldefortecabins.com, $125-260), a simple, homey resort by John’s Bay. The accommodations are rustic, with a shared cookhouse and showers, and the cabins are tightly packed on the green lawn, but it’s full of old-fashioned New England charm. Book well in advance, as longtime regular can fill these up in summer months.
Leave the crowds (and any hope of cell service) behind at S Mill Pond Inn (50 Main St., Nobleboro, 207/352-4044, www.millpondinn.com, $150-180), which has five guest rooms on the shore of Damariscotta Lake. Fresh flowers in each room and a wonderfully peaceful setting make this feel like a retreat from the world. The full country-style breakfast often includes blueberry pancakes or French toast, bacon, and eggs, and the friendly innkeepers have a great collection of books, games, and music to enjoy during your stay. The house was built in 1780, and retains a wonderfully historical feel.
Quiet and filled with shade trees, Pemaquid Point Campground (9 Pemaquid Point Campground Rd., New Harbor, 207/677-2267, www.pemaquidpointcampground.com, tent sites $27, RV sites $37, no credit cards) has hot showers, a playground, horseshoe pits, and easy access to the beach, Colonial Pemaquid, and the lighthouse, so you can beat the crowds coming from Boothbay. If you’re just passing through and don’t want to make the 20-minute trek down the peninsula, book a site at Lake Pemaquid Campground (100 Twin Cove Rd., Damariscotta, 207/563-5202, www.lakepemaquid.com, $36-48), whose 200 sites surround a pleasant, freshwater lake.
Information on the area is available through the Damariscotta Region Chamber of Commerce (15 Courtyard St., Damariscotta, 207/563-8340, www.damariscottaregion.com, 8:30am-4:30pm Mon.-Fri.).
Damariscotta is located on Route 1, an hour from Portland, and the Pemaquid Peninsula extends south from town, accessed by Route 129 and Route 130. Concord Coach Lines (100 Thompson’s Point Rd., Portland, 800/639-3317, www.concordcoachlines.com) has bus service to Damariscotta from Portland, stopping in front of Waltz Pharmacy (167 Main St.).
Down East begins where the Penobscot River opens onto a scenic bay filled with low-lying rocky islands. This is classic sailing territory, though submerged shoals and the maze-like geography make navigation difficult. Lobster boat captains work hundreds of traplines passed down through generations. Much of the bay’s edge is thoroughly rural, with forest broken only by the occasional village, but at the southern end is a trio of beautiful communities—Rockland, Rockport, and Camden—each with a scenic harbor and plenty to explore.
A thriving commercial fishing fleet has long been the heart of this working harbor, and at first glance the sturdy brick Main Street has a staid, old-fashioned look. It’s got a deep history with the sea: The Abenaki name for the harbor is Catawamtek, “great landing place,” and in the 19th century, the waterfront was alive with shipbuilding and lime production as fishing boats arrived laden with cod and lobster.
Rockland’s charms have long been overshadowed by picture-perfect Camden and Rockport, but in recent years the storefronts have filled up with destination restaurants and cozy bistros, and it has begun to feel unexpectedly chic. It’s a good home base for exploring Penobscot Bay, and remains fairly low-key. Even if you’re making tracks for Acadia or other parts of Down East Maine, it’s worth stopping to see the fabulous collection of Andrew Wyeth paintings at the Farnsworth Art Museum and walk the breakwater to the harbor lighthouse.
The main draw may be the unparalleled collection of works by the artists of the Wyeth family, but the wonderful Farnsworth Art Museum (16 Museum St., 207/596-6457, www.farsworthmuseum.org, 10am-5pm Tues.-Sun. Nov.-Dec. and Apr.-May, 10am-5pm Wed.-Sun. Jan.-Mar., 10am-5pm daily July-Oct., $15 adults, $13 seniors, $10 students 17 and older, children under 17 free) encompasses far more. Explore beautifully curated works depicting Maine’s landscape and people, including pieces by Robert Bellows, Eastman Johnson, Winslow Homer, and George Inness.
The Wyeth Center at the Farnsworth Art Museum highlights the very different works of Andrew Wyeth’s father, N. C., and his son Jamie. Andrew Wyeth’s best-known work, Christina’s World, isn’t here (it’s at MoMA in New York City), but the next best thing is—the house that inspired the arresting and melancholy character study. Docents can give you directions to the museum-operated Olson House (Hathorn Point Rd., Cushing, $5), a half-hour drive away; it was once home to Christina Olson, disabled by illness, and her eccentric brother Alvaro. On-site guides tell the story of the painting, which was based on an actual event when Wyeth came across Christina crawling home from her parents’ graves. June-September, admission to Farnsworth Art Museum is free 5pm-8pm on Wednesday.
The little town of Owls Head, a 10-minute drive south from Rockland, seems an unlikely place for the sprawling Owls Head Transportation Museum (117 Museum St., Owls Head, 207/594-4418, http://owlshead.org, 10am-5pm daily, $14 adults, $10 seniors, youth under 18 free), whose remarkable collection of pre-1940s vehicles celebrates everything that whirs, sputters, rolls, and glides. Aircraft, automobiles, and motorcycles are all fully functional, and the bicycle exhibit covers everything from an 1868 velocipede “boneshaker” to a turn-of-the-20th-century dual propulsion tricycle. Ask upon arrival about riding in a Ford Model T; if a staff member is available, he or she will take you for a turn around the grounds. Aircraft—including 19th-century gliders, a Wright flyer, biplanes, and a “Red Baron”-style triplane—get off the ground during outdoor events that take place frequently during the summer months.
Almost 700,000 tons of granite were sunk off Jameson Point to create the Rockland Breakwater (207/785-4609, www.rocklandharborlights.org), a 4,346-foot pile of rocks with a pretty brick lighthouse at the end. The scale of the building project, which was completed in 1900, is staggering, and the bulk of the structure is underwater—a cross section of the breakwater would be trapezoidal, with the base measuring 175 feet across. Walking the breakwater is an experience in itself, as sailboats, seabirds, and seals add to the scenery, and the Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse is fun to visit when open (if the flag is flying, the lighthouse is open—sharp-eyed visitors can spot the flag from Jameson Point, or check out the oddly hypnotizing live webcam feed on the breakwater website). Don’t set out down the breakwater during storms, though, as heavy waves can wash over the rocks.
walking the Rockland Breakwater
Short and pert, the Owls Head Lighthouse (Lighthouse Rd., Owl’s Head, free) commands beautiful views of the rocky coastline, and is accessible via a short, gentle walk through coastal forest. Over the years, the lighthouse has collected a remarkable list of legends and ghost stories. The light is said to be haunted by two ghosts (one helpful spirit left one-way tracks in the snow when he visited to polish the brass and clean the lens), and the lighthouse has been the site of some remarkable rescues. In a December 1850 storm, a small schooner smashed up on the rocks near Owls Head, and two survivors huddled on the rocks while a third sought help. By the time a search party arrived, the two are said to have been fully encased in a block of frozen sea spray; the rescuers chipped off the ice and dunked the victims in cold water to revive them. According to legend, the two survivors later married and had four children.
While it might not thrill the casual visitor, lighthouse aficionados shouldn’t miss the Maine Lighthouse Museum (1 Park Dr., 207/594-3301, www.mainelighthousemuseum.com, 10am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 10am-4pm Sat.-Sun., $8 adults, $6 seniors, children under 12 free), which bills itself as the country’s most significant collection of lenses and artifacts. The attached chamber of commerce has brochures and maps for lighthouse hopping up the coast. If puffins are more your thing, stop by the Project Puffin Visitor Center (311 Main St., 207/596-5566, www.projectpuffin.audubon.org, 10am-5pm Wed.-Sun. May, 10am-5pm daily June-Oct., free), which has a small but interesting exhibit on the birds and their habitat on Eastern Egg Rock.
Lobsters might be Maine’s headlining animal attraction—and the crustaceans are well worth a trip unto themselves—but the state’s wildlife is far wilder than many visitors imagine. The deep inland forests are home to some 65,000 moose, the largest species of deer in the world: Adult males can stand almost seven feet high at the shoulder, with antlers that span six feet. It’s common to see humpback, finback, and minke whales along the coast, and the luckiest sea watchers might spot a North Atlantic right whale on its annual migration from the Labrador Sea to warmer waters on the coastline of Georgia and Florida. An expansive coast means lots of room for birds, and Maine is home to the first restored seabird colony in the world, Eastern Egg Rock, where puffins and terns are making a comeback—a remarkable achievement, given that in 1901 there was just one nesting pair of Atlantic puffins in the entire United States. Here are some of the best ways to explore Maine’s wild side:
puffin
Spot a whale in Kennebunk: Catch a ride on Nick’s Chance (4 Western Ave., Kennebunk, 207/967-5507, www.firstchancewhalewatch.com, 4.5-hour trip $48 adults, $28 children 3-12) to the offshore banks, where whales fill their giant maws with teeny, tiny creatures of the sea.
Cuddle a crustacean at Acadia National Park: Among the best activities for kids in the state, the Dive-In Theater Boat Cruise (105 Eden St., Bar Harbor, 207/288-3483, www.divered.com, $42 adults, $37 seniors, $32 children 5-11, $16 children under 5) is all about getting personal with the creatures of the deep—“Diver Ed” brings everything from anemones to lobsters from the seafloor, then offers guests a chance to shake their clammy claws.
Spy on the puffins at Eastern Egg Rock: Boats depart for the rocky island from locations in Boothbay and on the Pemaquid Peninsula, both with expert naturalists aboard: Cap’n Fish’s (42 Commercial St., Boothbay Harbor, 207/633-3244, www.mainepuffin.com, 2.5-hour puffin tour $35 adults, $20 children 12 and under, $15 dogs; 4-hour puffin and whale tour $75 adults, $45 youth 6-14, $30 children under 6, $15 dogs) has a bigger boat for a smoother ride, but Hardy Boat Cruises (132 Rte. 32, New Harbor, 207/677-2026, www.hardyboat.com, 1.5-hour puffin tour $32 adults, $12 children 2-11, children under 2 free) is adventurous and fun, away from the crowds of Boothbay Harbor.
Lobster lovers arrive from all over for the five days of cook-offs and contests at the Maine Lobster Festival (800/596-0376, www.mainelobsterfestival.com, early Aug.), which has been held in Rockland since 1947. The event doesn’t really get going until King Neptune crowns the Maine Sea Goddess on Wednesday night, and then it’s a frenzy of pancake breakfasts, music, and 20,000 pounds of lobster that go straight from the boats into the world’s largest lobster pot. It ends on Sunday with the International Great Crate Race, where fleet-footed contestants run across lobster crates suspended in the harbor, overseen—and sometimes fished out—by umpires in rowboats.
Unlike more cumbersome square-rigged ships, Maine’s “windjammer” schooners can sail close-hauled to the wind, making them remarkably nimble and fast for their size. Five of the nine ships that make up the Maine Windjammer Association (207/374-2993, www.sailmainecoast.com) are National Historic Landmarks, and they’re overhauled each spring with fresh paint, polished brass, and gleaming wood. Without a steady stream of tourists, it’s hard to imagine these ships staying afloat; even a small wooden sailboat is a labor of love, and a grand, historic schooner even more so.
Cruises range 3-6 days in length, poking around rocky islands, sailing into coves in search of seals, and providing evening deck views under brilliant stars. Accommodations are cramped, but increasingly the schooners are creating a more luxurious experience, with wine tastings and thoughtfully prepared food. Guests can lend a hand in hoisting sails and anchors, or just lie back and watch the show.
The J. & E. Riggin (207/594-1875, www.mainewindjammer.com, 3-day trips from $596) leaves from Rockland and is known for the best schooner food on the coast, and the 1922 Ladona (207/594-4723, www.schoonerladona.com, 3-day trips from $968) has cornered the upper end of the market after a recent overhaul, with wonderfully pristine deck chairs, luxurious beds, and elegant tiled showers.
Powered by beans from the nearby Rock City Coffee Roasters, the Rock City Cafe (316 Main St., 207/594-4123, www.rockcitycoffee.com, 6am-7pm Mon.-Thurs., 6am-9pm Fri.-Sat., 7am-6pm Sun., $2-6) has excellent brews alongside a menu of light meals and fresh pastries.
A huge menu of hearty breakfasts and lunch plates is the draw at Home Kitchen Café (650 Main St., 207/596-2449, www.homekitchencafe.com, 7am-3pm Mon. and Wed.-Sat., 8am-3pm Sun., $7-13), a bright, friendly spot with a sunny rooftop patio. The recurring lobster tacos special is legendary, but the café’s homemade sticky buns and corned beef hash also have passionate fans.
The busy bakers at Atlantic Baking Co. (351 Main St., 207/596-0505, www.atlanticbakingco.com, 7am-6pm Tues.-Sat., $3-11) turn out an impressive display of sweets, breads, and savory pastries. This centrally located spot is a favorite for quick, simple lunches of soups, salads, or sandwiches on house-made bread, and is also good for picnic supplies if you’re headed out to Owls Head Lighthouse or the Rockland Breakwater.
Superb farm-to-table cuisine is beautifully presented at S Primo (2 S. Main St., 207/596-0770, www.primorestaurant.com, 5pm-10:30pm Wed.-Mon., $32-40), an Italian restaurant on a four-acre farm. James Beard Award-winning chef Melissa Kelly creates a menu that changes with the season, and plates are a heady blend of classic flavors and Maine ingredients, like seared scallops with morel mushrooms and fiddleheads, or a branzino fillet with local whelks, shrimp, and clams. Reservations are recommended: Book the downstairs dining room for a romantic, more formal feel, or dine in the upstairs lounge, full of colorful nooks, bar seating, and a convivial atmosphere. Cocktails are as garden-fresh as the food.
On the north end of town is a Hannaford Supermarket (75 Maverick St., 207/594-2173, 6am-11pm Mon.-Sat., 7am-9pm Sun.), and the tiny Good Tern Natural Foods Co-Op and Café (750 Main St., 207/594-8822, www.goodtern.com, 8am-7pm Mon.-Sat., 9am-5pm Sun.) has a good selection of organic, GMO-free foods, a deli, and a small café with a sitting area.
Rockland has few accommodations compared to Rockport and Camden, making Airbnb a good option here.
Modern touches and eclectic, original art keep the S Old Granite Inn (546 Main St., 207/594-9036, www.oldgraniteinn.com, $150-215) from feeling fusty, but the common spaces of the granite colonial house retain a historical feel. Rooms range from a compact queen with detached private bath to four-person suites that are an excellent value for families; some have electric fireplaces and whirlpool tubs, while two rooms on the 2nd floor boast views of the Rockland Harbor Lighthouse. The hearty breakfasts served in the communal dining room get raves from guests.
The elegant Queen Anne architecture of LimeRock Inn (96 Limerock St., 800/546-3762, www.limerockinn.com, $169-249) is brightened up with an eye-popping coat of teal paint and garden full of blooming plants. Welcoming owners and a location that’s walking distance from downtown restaurants and the Farnsworth Art Museum make this a good choice for exploring Rockland, but the gracious wraparound porch, living room, and comfortable rooms are tempting reasons to stay in as well. All rooms have a private bath and fun, varied decor that ranges from a somewhat princessly pink suite to staid Yankee plaid.
Luxurious and ultramodern, 250 Main Hotel (250 Main St., 207/594-5994, www.250mainhotel.com, $279-400) offers stunning views of the harbor from many rooms, some of which feature floor-to-ceiling glass. Clever nautical touches and original art are everywhere in the hotel’s 26 rooms and common spaces. Don’t miss the wonderful rooftop patio.
The Penobscot Bay Regional Chamber of Commerce (1 Park Dr., 207/596-0376, www.therealmaine.com) runs a large and well-stocked information center in a new building by the harbor.
Rockland is located on Route 1, 1.75 hours from Portland. Daily bus service to Rockland is available from Concord Coach Lines (100 Thompson’s Point Rd., Portland, 800/639-3317, www.concordcoachlines.com), which stops at the Maine State Ferry Terminal (517A Main St.). There’s free, two-hour parking on Main Street, and a larger lot at Oceanside High School (400 Broadway, July and Aug. only).
Forested, sloping hills running straight to the water are the perfect frame for Camden’s sheltered harbor and picturesque downtown; the elegant little community is one of New England’s most beautiful. Schooners and sleek yachts stand at attention on mooring buoys and floating docks, and on quiet mornings you can hear spanking lines and outboard motors from all over town. There’s no finer place on the coast to see Maine’s windjammer fleet, breathtaking wooden vessels crowned with acres of flying sails and trim lines.
All that beauty has made Camden a tourist destination since the mid-19th century, and downtown can be a madhouse in the heat of summer. When the ice cream shop has a line out the door and there’s nowhere to park within a mile of the water, it’s worth taking in your harbor views from the relative quiet of Camden Hills State Park, where Mount Megunticook and Mount Battie look out on Penobscot Bay.
Just down the coast, tiny Rockport feels like Camden in dollhouse scale: Turn away at the wrong moment, and you’d totally miss the perfect little harbor and downtown. There are just a few restaurants on the little Main Street, and no sights to speak of, but the waterfront park is ideal for watching lobster boats and sailors.
Starting in the 18th century, Mainers produced lime by burning locally quarried limestone in wood- and coal-fired kilns. At the time, lime was an essential part of almost any construction project, and, at the industry’s peak in 1892, millions of casks of lime left the Maine coast. Keep an eye out and you’ll see traces of the lime business everywhere, including a ruined lime kiln by the river in the Rockport Harbor. Featuring Maine’s best artists, the Center for Maine Contemporary Art (21 Winter St., Rockport, 207/236-2875, www.cmcanow.org, 10am-5pm Mon.-Sat., noon-5pm Sun. late May-Oct., 10am-5pm Wed.-Sat., noon-5pm Sun. Nov.-late May, $8 adults, $6 seniors, youth 18 and under and students with ID free) is worth a look for its dozens of summer art shows held in a converted firehouse.
While it’s not quite as extensive as the maritime museum in Bath, the collection of nautical treasures, art, and artifacts at the Penobscot Marine Museum (5 Church St., Searsport, 207/548-0334, www.penobscotmarinemuseum.org, 10am-5pm Mon.-Sat., noon-5pm Sun. late May-mid-Oct., $15 adults, $12 seniors and students, $10 children 8-15, children under 8 free) is fascinating. You’ll find a trove of model ships and scrimshaw here, along with practical tools and navigation equipment. The museum is about 30 minutes up the coast from Camden, in Searsport, so make a stop on the way to Acadia National Park.
Like the other tourist towns on the coast, Camden’s summer is a whirl of themed weekends and small festivals. The real centerpiece of the season, though, is the Camden Windjammer Festival (207/236-4404, www.camdenwindjammerfrestival.org, early Sept.), when the harbor fills with two dozen magnificent schooners. Boat parades, fireworks, and a lobster-trap race make this a fun time to visit, but book accommodations far in advance.
As beautiful as Rockport and Camden are, getting out on a boat is the only way to really take in Penobscot Bay. Tiny forested isles and town-sized islands are dreamlike on sunny days, when the sparkling water lights up the coast. But the bay is a sprawl of rocky shoals and hazards, and a thick layer of fog can turn even familiar harbors into a dangerous maze. Would-be adventurers shouldn’t be deterred—local captains and kayak guides are well versed in keeping people safe.
The lacy, rock edges of Penobscot Bay are perfectly suited to kayaks, which can nose in and out of coves too small for bigger boats. Maine Sports Outfitters (24 Main St., Camden, 207/236-8797, www.mainesport.com, kayak trips $40-125 adults, $35-75 kids 10-15) runs trips ranging from two hours to a full day. A two-hour Camden Harbor Tour is a good way to see the schooners and yachts from the water as you work your way to a small island at the mouth of the harbor, but the half-day Harbor-to-Harbor paddle goes farther afield, starting in Rockport Harbor and going to Camden Harbor, with a picnic lunch on Curtis Island.
Experienced kayakers can rent from the same company (full-day sea kayak rental $45 single, $55 tandem), which is full of good advice on day trips and overnight paddles from Camden Harbor.
The Camden area isn’t known for great beaches, but there are some fine places to cool off on a hot day: At the eastern end of Megunticook Lake, Barrett’s Cove Beach (Beauclaire Ave., off Rte. 52) has a bit of sand and picnic tables. By midsummer, the water here is far warmer than the bay, making it a good choice for families. A one-mile walk from downtown Camden, Laite Memorial Beach (south side of Camden Harbor, off Bay View St.) is a pleasant, grassy park with a sandy beach that narrows to a sliver at high tide.
Sailing out of Camden, the 1871 Lewis R. French (270/230-8320, www.schoonerfrench.com, 3-night trips from $625) is the oldest windjammer in the United States, and still has no inboard engine; with all sails set, she flies a remarkable 3,000 square feet of canvas. Another Camden favorite is the Angelique (800/282-9989, www.sailangelique.com, 3-night trips from $595), a modern vessel that’s particularly dramatic under deep-red, gaff-rigged sails.
Aside from Mount Desert Island, Camden Hills State Park (280 Rte. 1, Camden, 207/236-3109, www.maine.gov, 9am-sunset daily, $6 adults, $2 seniors and children) is the only place in Maine where the mountains hew so closely to the coast, and the views of Penobscot Bay are unmatched. You’ll earn your views on the steep 2.6-mile round-trip Megunticook Trail as you climb almost 1,000 feet in elevation on your way to the summit. Another good choice for views of the bay is the 3-mile loop trail up the 1,200-foot Bald Rock Mountain, where two rustic Adirondack shelters are set just below the bare crest. Unless you’re a very brisk walker, set aside two hours for either hike, and be sure to pick up a free hiking map at the entrance to the park.
Of course, you also don’t have to walk anywhere for views in this park. An auto road to the summit of Mount Battie climbs from just inside the state park entrance. The 19-year-old Edna St. Vincent Millay, a Rockland native who would go on to win the 1923 Pulitzer Prize for poetry, was inspired by Mount Battie when she wrote her poem “Renascence.”
Even when you are looking for S Rhumb Line (59 Sea St., 207/230-8495, www.rhumblinecamden.com, 4:30pm-9:30pm Mon. and Wed.-Fri., 11:30am-9:30pm Sat.-Sun., $7-25), it’s easy to miss, tucked between the waterfront and a cavernous working boatyard. The small seafood restaurant is across the harbor from the core of downtown, and it’s a pleasure to enjoy the alternative vantage point from the outdoor bar and patio seating. Opened in 2016, the restaurant generated buzz with creative cocktails and fresh boat-to-table seafood. The menu includes the usual fried fare, along with offbeat sashimi and ceviche, and the rustic-chic interior is right at home on the water’s edge.
Find great coffee and something to read at Owl & Turtle Bookshop (33 Bay View St., 207/230-7335, www.owlandturtle.com, 8am-6pm Tues.-Sat., $2-5), which also has a small selection of fresh pastries. Friendly staff and a good crowd of locals make this a nice place to linger with a crossword puzzle.
No one goes to Cuzzy’s (21 Bay View St., 207/236-3272, www.cuzzysrestaurant.com, 11am-1am daily, $5-20) for a gourmet meal, but that’s somewhat beside the point. There’s a huge menu of affordable pub food, very decent chowder, and all kinds of fried seafood to eat at the bar, where fishers and schooner crews come to relax in a cave-like interior or on the sunny back patio. Happy hour specials on cheap beer and pizza are available 3pm-6pm daily.
With a solid menu of seafood standards and patio seating that juts over the harbor, Waterfront (40 Bay View St., 207/236-3747, www.waterfrontcamden.com, 11:30am-9pm daily, $9-30) is a perennial favorite. No individual dish seems to blow anyone away, but watching the boats roll in and out of the harbor over a glass of local beer and plate of oysters is a true Camden experience. On busy nights, waits can get very long, and since the interior seating is a bit lackluster, it’s often worth going elsewhere.
Reasonably priced sandwiches, soups, and salads at Camden Deli (37 Main St., 207/236-8343, www.camdendeli.com, 7am-9pm daily, $7-10) are a simple option right downtown. Limited seating is available inside (window seats have great views of the harbor), but this is a nice place to pick up sandwiches to take around the corner to the small park where paths and benches face the water.
In a cheerfully decorated, historic brick building, Fresh & Co. (1 Bay View Landing, 207/236-7005, www.freshcamden.com, 5pm-8:30pm daily, $21-28) is just that, with an eye-opening menu of international food that skews Asian. The huge, homemade lobster ravioli with wonton wrappers is a favorite here, as is the “deconstructed” lamb moussaka as well as tiger shrimp with black rice and ginger barbecue sauce. Despite the upscale food (and prices), this restaurant has a casual atmosphere, with outdoor seating and the occasional live act.
Find high-quality baked goods, meat, cheese, and drinks at French & Brawn Marketplace (1 Elm St., 207/236-3361, www.frenchandbrawn.com, 6am-8pm daily), which is the only market in downtown Camden. More basic goods are available from Hannaford Supermarket (145 Elm St., 207/236-8577, 7am-10pm Mon.-Sat., 7am-9pm Sun.), on the main road south of town. Small but vibrant, the Camden Farmers Market (Knox Mill between Washington and Knowlton, Sat. market 9am-1pm May-Nov., Wed. market 3:30pm-6pm mid-June-Nov.) has local breads, cheeses, vegetables, and fruit.
Tiny Rockport doesn’t have much of a dining scene, but S Nina June (24 Central St., 207/236-8880, www.ninajunerestaurant.com, 5:30pm-9:30pm Tues.-Fri., 10am-2pm and 5:30pm-9:30pm Sat., 11:30am-2pm Sun., brunch $6-18, lunch/dinner $20-30) is a noteworthy exception. A deck overlooking the Rockport Harbor makes a sublime setting for a Mediterranean menu that changes with the season. A typical fall menu might include bucatini with lamb neck ragu and grilled swordfish beside a pile of shaved cucumber and cherry tomatoes. Saturday lunch means a hearty menu of Italian specialties, while Sunday brunch ranges from traditional breakfasts like strata or pancakes to white-almond gazpacho and other savory entrées.
The trim little cottages at S Oakland Seashore Cabins (112 Dearborn Ln., Rockport, 207/594-8104, www.oaklandseashorecabins.com, $75-150) are rustic and a bit of a tight squeeze, but they’re set right on the edge of a private pebble beach between Rockland and Rockport, making them a fabulous value and wonderfully peaceful place to stay. This property also includes motel rooms at a similar price, and while they’re a decent option, the cabins are the clear winner. The cabins with kitchenettes are stocked with very basic cooking equipment, and the largest sleep up to five people. No televisions, telephones, or coffeepots here (and the wireless access is hit or miss).
A quiet, 15-minute walk from Rockport’s gem of a harbor, Schooner Bay Motor Inn (337 Commercial St., Rockport, 888/308-8855, www.sbaymotorinn.com, $90-179) has trim furnishings and a thoughtful, local character that sets it apart from the other motels along Route 1. Light sleepers should request a room at the forested back of the property, where there’s a small, shady creek. A breakfast of fresh pastries, fruit, and homemade quiche is served May-December.
If you’re looking for a lower-budget place to stay in downtown Camden, The Towne Motel (68 Elm St., Camden, 207/236-3377, www.camdenmotel.com, $124-150) is hard to beat. The superclean, motel-style rooms are nothing fancy, but the friendly owners are gradually overhauling them; updated rooms are the same price as the older ones, but with smart, fresh colors and little artistic flourishes. All rooms have coffeemakers, cable televisions, air-conditioning, wireless Internet, and small fridges, and an appealing breakfast is served during summer months; in the off-season, the owners deliver a little breakfast packet to each room that includes their killer homemade granola.
Find Maine country style with a few nautical touches at the Blue Harbor House Inn (67 Elm St., Camden, 207/236-3196, www.blueharborhouse.com, $155-199), a homey spot that’s a short walk from downtown. Rooms are stocked with coffeemakers and comfortable beds, and afternoon tea and the innkeeper’s two-course breakfast are served in a welcoming common room. All rooms have en suite bathrooms, and more expensive options have steam showers or claw-foot soaking tubs.
An expansive lawn rolls all the way to a private beach, a wonderful perk that makes the High Tide Inn (505 Rte. 1, Camden, 207/236-3724, www.hightideinn.com, $175-195, deck house $170-260) feel like a retreat just a few minutes’ drive from downtown Camden. A handful of options are available on this property: the somewhat lackluster Oceanview Motel (where you can just spy a bit of blue); the sweet, compact rooms in the old-fashioned inn; a collection of oceanfront rooms a stone’s throw from the water; and six little cottages, nostalgic and rustic. A homemade continental breakfast is served on a glass-enclosed porch with views to the water.
Find all the top-end perks at S 16 Bay View (16 Bay View St., Camden, 207/706-7990, www.16bayview.com, $250-500), a 21-room boutique hotel with perfect views of the harbor from oceanside rooms and the rooftop bar. Great piles of silky pillows, gas fireplaces, spa bathrooms, and balconies are luxurious, and the hotel, which opened in early 2016, is beautifully decorated. A continental breakfast is served in the Prohibition-themed Vintage Room.
Set in the rolling forest along the coast, S Camden Hills State Park (280 Rte. 1, 207/236-3109, www.maine.gov, $38-49) has amazing views of Penobscot Bay, trails to explore, and level campsites that range from simple tent pads to extra-large options, with water, electric, and space for a 35-foot camper. The campground is divided into reservable sites that must be booked 48 hours in advance (though it’s worth planning ahead for peak season), and a smaller number of sites set aside on a first-come, first-served basis.
The Camden-Rockport-Lincolnville Chamber of Commerce (Public Landing, 207/236-4404 or 800/223-5459, www.visitcamden.com, 9am-4pm Mon.-Sat.) runs a helpful information center on the Camden waterfront.
Camden is located on Route 1, 1.75 hours from Portland, and two hours from Bar Harbor. Daily bus service to Rockport from Portland is available from Concord Coach Lines (100 Thompson’s Point Rd., Portland, 800/639-3317, www.concordcoachlines.com), which stops at Maritime Farms (20 Commercial St., Rockport).
No real in-town public transit is available in any of the Penobscot Bay locales, but they’re small enough to explore on foot. In Camden, free parking is available at two public lots (Washington Street, turn north when Route 1 passes the Camden Village Green).
The third-largest city in Maine, industrial Bangor is invigorated by students at the University of Maine, who infuse young energy into an otherwise stolid and sleepy place. If you’ve read anything written by resident celebrity Stephen King, however, you’ll know that sleepy northern towns aren’t always what they seem—a towering statue of the folk forester Paul Bunyan points to the city’s past as a buzzing lumber port, and there’s a remarkably good art museum on the university campus.
Born in Portland, Stephen King came to Orono to attend college and has remained in the area ever since. The first stop on most horror-lovers’ itineraries is the author’s house, a creepy Victorian (47 W. Broadway) whose wrought-iron gate is adorned with spiders, bats, and a mythical-looking snake. For the full SK immersion, join an outing with SK Tours of Maine (207/947-7193, www.sk-tours.com, 3-hour tours $45 adults, children under 13 free), led by a fanatically knowledgeable guide. In addition to the author’s own haunts, the tours visit places that King has woven into novels like It and Pet Sematery.
Stephen King’s house
According to Bangor boosters, the town’s Paul Bunyan Statue (519 Main St.) is the largest in the world—but who’s counting? Built in 1959, it towers 31 feet above Main Street—and it came to life as “Giant” in the pages of Stephen King’s book It.
A first-rate collection of contemporary work is housed at the University of Maine Museum of Art (Norumbega Hall, 40 Harlow St., 207/561-3350, www.umma.umaine.edu, 10am-5pm Tues.-Sat., free), which features the art of Roy Lichtenstein, Richard Estes, and David Hockney.
Run by a group of Franciscan friars, the S Friars’ Bakehouse (21 Central St., 207/947-3770, 8:30am-2pm Tues.-Thurs., 8:30am-1:30pm Fri., $5-20) serves a homey menu of soups and sandwiches on its house-made bread, with a pastry case full of sticky buns and oversized cookies. The lobster roll is one of the few around that’s not based on store-bought white rolls, and it’s stuffed with an impressive pile of meat in generous pieces.
A sign of changed times in Bangor, the stylish Timber Kitchen & Bar (22 Bass Park Blvd., 207/433-0844, www.timberkitchenandbar.com, 11am-11pm Mon.-Thurs., 11am-midnight Fri.-Sat., 11am-10pm Sun., $12-33) is convivial and fun, with places to gather indoors and by an outside fire. Flatbreads, burgers, and house-made pasta are the heart of the menu, but the seafood stew is outstanding. The restaurant’s happy hour (4pm-6pm Mon.-Fri.) is popular, with discounted drinks and bar snacks.
With a roadhouse feel and a perpetual lineup of big-rig trucks, Dysart’s Restaurant & Truck Stop (530 Coldbrook Rd., 207/942-4878, www.dysarts.com, 24 hours daily, $7-16) is something of a legend in these parts, the kind of place that would merit its own country song if Mainers went in for that sort of thing. Enormous sandwiches, big slices of blueberry pie, whoopie pies, cinnamon rolls the size of a (small) head, and house-made hash bring in crowds to the cavernous dining room. Breakfasts are an old-fashioned feast.
Aside from a cluster of chain hotels by the highway exit, Bangor’s main accommodation is a clanging downtown casino, so it’s often best to stick to the interstate. The best value among the roadside motels may be the Bangor Inn & Suites (701 Hogan Rd., 207/947-0357, www.bangorinnandsuites.com, $90-130), a basic spot with clean, if dated, rooms and an unusually good breakfast of homemade muffins, eggs cooked to order, and sides.
More spiffed up and spacious, Marriott’s TownePlace Suites Bangor (240 Sylvan Rd., 844/631-0595, www.marriott.com, $150-300) has a reasonable self-serve breakfast in the downstairs dining area, with a gym and a pool on-site. While mostly geared toward extended stays, there are suites equipped with kitchenettes and small living rooms.
Bangor is located on I-95, 2 hours from Portland and 1.25 hours from Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park. Daily bus service to Bangor from Portland and Boston is available from Concord Coach Lines (100 Thompson’s Point Rd., Portland, 800/639-3317, www.concordcoachlines.com), which stops at the Bangor Transportation Center (1039 Union St.). Greyhound (214/849-8966, www.greyhound.com) also stops in town, with service around the northeast.
Another gorgeous web of bays and narrow harbors, Blue Hill Peninsula is an escape from the crowds in Bar Harbor and Camden. No one sight anchors the region’s many charms, but it’s an appealing place for a slow drive or lunch by the water. The far-flung seaside town of Castine has a historic center and a marine that fills with yachts and runabouts, while the community of Blue Hill remains a haven for artists and eccentrics drawn to the beauty of the coast.
You can take in the heart of historic Castine on foot, and the Castine Historical Society (13 and 17 School St., 207/326-4118, www.castinehistoricalsociety.org) issues a free map that outlines a self-guided walking tour—the maps are available at the historical society, as well as at many shops around town.
Highlights of the walk include the astounding collection in the Wilson Museum (107 Perkins St., 207/326-9247, www.wilsonmuseum.org, 10am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 2pm-5pm Sat.-Sun. late May-Sept., free), which includes African prehistoric artifacts, Balinese shadow puppets, fire department memorabilia, and old maps and ships’ logs.
A short and pleasant walk from downtown is Dyce Head Lighthouse, a 19th-century classic tapered white tower. In the summer, midshipmen conduct tours of the State of Maine, the 500-foot training vessel owned by the Maine Maritime Academy (Pleasant St., Castine, 800/464-6565, www.mainemaritime.edu). Though not available for tours, be sure to notice the academy’s other beauty, the schooner Bowdoin, which Maine explorer Adm. Donald MacMillan took on his many expeditions to the North Pole. During the summer months, the historical society leads hour-long tours of Castine on selected Saturdays; check the website for an updated schedule.
If Leonardo da Vinci had lived in Maine at the turn of the 19th century, he would have been fast friends with Jonathan Fisher, a preacher who dabbled in painting, poetry, farming, and literally dozens of other fields. Memorabilia and items made by the man himself are on view at the Jonathan Fisher House (44 Mines Rd., 207/374-2459, www.jonathanfisherhouse.org, hours vary, May-Sept., $5).
The gardens and hand-built home of Helen and Scott Nearing, intellectuals, writers, and farmers who helped lead the first wave of back-to-the-landers in New England, are carefully preserved at the Good Life Center (372 Harborside Rd., Harborside, 207/326-8211, www.goodlife.org, 1pm-4pm Thurs.-Mon. late June-early Sept., $10 suggested donation), which explores their legacy and ideals.
Three dozen members strong, the Flash! In the Pans (207/374-2140, www.peninsulapan.org) community steel band brings a taste of the Caribbean to Maine with outdoor steel-band concerts around the peninsula all summer long. On alternate Mondays they instigate a street party in the small town of Brooksville.
When thoughts of midday snacks start hitting, set your sights on Markel’s Bakehouse (26 Water St., Castine, 207/326-9510, www.markelsbakehouse.com, 7am-3pm daily summer, closed Sun.-Mon. in off-season, $2-9), where the cases are filled with strawberry and cream croissants, snickerdoodle cookies, and giant honey shortbreads. The menu also includes hearty breakfasts and lunches of soups, sandwiches, and salads.
The dining room of the Pentagöet Inn (26 Main St., 207/326-8616, www.pentagoet.com, 8am-10pm daily mid-May-Sept., $17-26) has a refined colonial ambience that somehow strangely sympathizes with Ella Fitzgerald and Louis Armstrong crooning in the background. The menu is an impeccable mix of New England seafood and homemade pastas, highlighted by haute cuisine accents like white truffle oil, goat cheese cream, and tarragon bourride.
Easily worth a bit of a side trip from Castine or Blue Hill, S Buck’s Restaurant (6 Cornfield Hill Rd., Brooksville, 207/326-8688, www.bucksrestaurant.weebly.com, 5:30pm-8pm Tues.-Sat., $19-28) serves New American dishes with lots of heart: think smoked mackerel pâté, baked pollock, and Acadian jambalaya. It’s a great meal, but unfussy—you could arrive in heels or boat shoes.
A quick walk from the beach and with blissful views, the rustic Castine Cottages (33 Snapp’s Way, Castine, 207/326-8003, www.castinecottages.com, $90-200) are two-bedroom stand-alones with full kitchens, outdoor grills, and very cute decor.
With smart New England decor and wonderfully hospitable owners, the Blue Hill Inn (40 Union St., Blue Hill, 207/374-2844, www.bluehillinn.com, $115-220) is beloved for blueberry pancakes and thoughtful amenities. Wine and snacks are served each evening, and some of the rooms have their own romantic little sitting areas, complete with personal fireplace.
Maine Island style gets a dose of sophistication at The Castine Inn (33 Main St., Castine, 207/326-4365, www.castineinn.com, $120-200). Rooms are sunny and decorated in soothing tones, queen beds, and delicate window treatments (many of which frame views of the surrounding gardens and nearby harbor). Breakfast is included and delicious—especially if the apple bread French toast is on offer.
The Blue Hill Peninsula extends south from Route 1, between Penobscot Bay and Blue Hill Bay, and is accessible on Route 175 and Route 172. No public transportation options to the area are currently available.