a carriage road bridge in Acadia National Park
Lubec’s West Quoddy Head Light.
Look for S to find recommended sights, activities, dining, and lodging.
S Cadillac Mountain: The tip of this granite-topped mountain catches America’s first sunrise for part of the year, and dawn gatherings on the summit are a New England rite of passage (click here).
S Carriage Roads: Bike this extraordinary network of car-free roads—or hop a horse-drawn carriage to a rocky summit (click here).
S Thuya Garden and Asticou Azalea Garden: Climb the monumental granite path to Thuya Garden, then walk paths lined with armfuls of blossoms spring-fall (click here).
S Bar Island Trail: Walk from Bar Harbor to a rocky little island on a pathway that is only exposed at low tide, watching for stranded sea creatures along the way (click here).
S West Quoddy Head Light: Make the long drive to the easternmost point in the continental United States, and you’ll be rewarded with big tides and bigger views (click here).
S Hiking Mount Katahdin: The northern terminus of the 2,200-mile Appalachian Trail is one of New England’s most dramatic peaks, with vertigo-inducing ridges, wild weather, and a maze of gorgeous footpaths (click here).
Maine’s scenic drama comes to a head in Acadia National Park, a 47,000-acre preserve that spills across Mount Desert Island to the surrounding islets and shoreline.
Twenty-four mountain peaks describe the island’s dramatic history in sparkling granite: 450 million years ago, mini continent Avalonia rammed into the hulking North American plate, forming a platform that would be buried under sand, silt, volcanic lava, and ash, then raked by a series of massive glaciers. Geologic clues are everywhere here, from odd-looking rocks left perched on mountaintops to ice-carved, U-shaped valleys and deep gouges in bare granite. A deep, fjord-like bay nearly splits the island in two. For ocean-view hiking, rocky trail exploration, and tide pooling, New England’s only national park is incomparable.
The Wabanaki people have inhabited this stretch of coast for thousands of years, hunting and fishing in year-round settlements and trading widely with other regional groups. In 1604, French explorer Samuel de Champlain stopped by long enough to record a name—Isles des Monts Déserts, or Islands of Bare Peaks—and was followed by waves of Jesuit missionaries, French and British soldiers, and city people seeking simpler country pleasures.
It remains an extraordinary place, with rugged mountains, beaches, and headlands so tightly packed they can be explored in a single day. Acadia is glorious in the summer sunshine, but it’s equally entrancing when thick fog creeps across the water, isolating the island into a world of its own. One vibrant town and a handful of scattered communities are interwoven with the park land, so your experience in Acadia can be as luxurious, or remote, as you choose.
Continue past Acadia National Park, and the long coast leads to the easternmost point in the continental United States, the far-flung outpost of Lubec, whose West Quoddy Head Light is a candy-striped beacon that marks the end of America.
Head far inland to Baxter State Park, where Maine’s highest mountain marks the northern terminus of the 2,200-mile Appalachian Trail. It’s a peak that has drawn spiritual seekers and adventurers for centuries, and to many mountain lovers, Katahdin’s rocky ridges and moods outshine the more developed alpine landscape of New Hampshire’s Mount Washington.
Mount Desert Island is 108 square miles, and accounting for winding roads and slow-moving traffic, it can take quite a while to drive from one side to the other. When visiting, then, it’s worth choosing one of the two sides as a home base: Opt for Bar Harbor for great access to kid-friendly activities, shops, and restaurants, or sleep on the western “quiet side” to escape the crowds. Spring-fall, the free Island Explorer shuttle makes frequent loops of the island following eight different routes; if you’d like to explore car-free (highly recommended), choose accommodations on a shuttle route. As in other destinations on coastal Maine, the true high season is during the school vacation months of July and August. Many prices drop substantially in June and September, whose mild weather and sunshine also make them some of the prettiest months on the island. The leaves begin to change color toward the end of September, reaching a brilliant peak in mid-October. While the Park Loop Road is open year-round, many restaurants and hotels close their doors between November and May.
For many people, Acadia National Park and Mount Desert Island are synonymous, but the national park is a patchwork that covers much of the island and a bit of mainland coast. The bulk of the park territory is on the eastern side of Mount Desert Island, where the Park Loop Road circles some of the most dramatic scenery and best-known hiking trails. On the other side of Somes Sound is the “quiet side,” good for less frequented hikes. The remaining parkland is on the harder-to-reach Isle au Haut, and the Schoodic Peninsula, which is linked by passenger ferry to Bar Harbor.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Because of the patchwork way Acadia National Park was stitched together, driving around Mount Desert Island means passing in and out of park territory, often without notice. The only real gateways to the park are the kiosks at the on-ramps to Park Loop Road, where you’ll be asked to present your pass; otherwise, leave it displayed in your car (park rangers suggest that cyclists and motorcyclists carry their pass with them on hikes).
May-October, the entrance fee for a private vehicle seating 15 people or fewer is $25. Motorcycles with one or two passengers pay $20, cyclists and pedestrians pay $12 each, and individuals 15 years old and younger are admitted free of charge. Most passes are valid for seven days; annual passes to Acadia National Park are $50, while an Interagency Annual Pass is $80 and covers all National Park Service and Forest Service entrance fees. Active military, people with disabilities, and U.S. fourth-grade students are eligible for a free Interagency Annual Pass; a lifetime interagency pass is available to seniors for $80. Passes are sold at all park visitors centers, campgrounds, and information booths, but for trips during peak season, it’s worth purchasing online to avoid lines (www.yourpassnow.com).
As Route 3 crosses the Mount Desert Narrows, the small Thompson Island Information Center (8:30am-5:30pm daily mid-May-mid-Oct.) is on the right, and it’s a useful stop for passes and maps if you’re making a beeline to a trail or campground on the west side of the island. Otherwise, keep going to Hulls Cove Visitor Center (Rte. 3, 207/288-3338, 8:30am-4:30pm daily Apr.-mid-June, 8:30am-6pm daily mid-June-Aug., 8:30am-4:30pm daily Sept.-Oct.), which has several exhibits orienting visitors to Acadia’s natural and cultural history, including a 15-minute film about the park. It’s also possible to sign up for guided naturalist and history programs here; multiple ranger-led programs are held each day throughout the summer in Acadia National Park, from walks and demonstrations to outdoor art lessons. Many of these are free; for more information, visit the events webpage (www.nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit).
Reservations are essential for the two campgrounds—Blackwoods and Seawall—inside the national park, which can be made through the National Recreation Reservation Service (877/444-8777, www.recreation.gov). A small number of sites in each campground are set aside for day-of arrivals with no reservations; call each location first thing in the morning to inquire about openings, though sites don’t become available every day. When visiting the island during school vacations, it’s important to reserve in advance almost everywhere, but there are many rooms on the island, and it’s generally possible to find something during shoulder seasons.
While there are no markets, banks, or other services within Acadia National Park itself, they can be found in nearby Bar Harbor, or in the much smaller Southwest Harbor on the western side of the island. Southwest Harbor has two banks, a small market, and a public library (338 Main St., Southwest Harbor, 207/244-7065, www.swhplibary.org, 9am-5pm Mon.-Tues. and Thurs.-Fri., 9am-8pm Wed., 9am-1pm Sat) with free Internet access.
While a car is convenient for reaching less frequented trailheads, and for early morning trips up Cadillac Mountain, limited parking and congestion during busy months make it worth parking your vehicle and exploring on public transport. Late June-early October, the free, convenient Island Explorer (207/667-5796, www.exploreacadia.com) makes it easy to get around Acadia without a car. The fleet of propane-powered buses follows nine fixed routes all over the island and on the Schoodic Peninsula, and covers most of Park Loop Road and all the villages, hotels, campgrounds, and trailheads. While there are automatic stops at many of the most notable destinations, drivers will stop to let you out whenever it’s safe. Likewise, many hotels can recommend spots to flag down passing buses, even if there’s not an official stop nearby.
To see the only part of Acadia National Park that’s on the mainland, take the Bar Harbor Ferry (Bar Harbor Inn Pier, 7 Newport Dr., 207/288-2984, www.barharborferry.com, late June-Sept., round-trip tickets $26 adults, $16 children under 12, $75 families) to the tiny town of Winter Harbor on the Schoodic Peninsula.
Even more so than other destinations in New England, this is an excellent place to have a bicycle, as the slow-moving traffic on Park Loop Road and extensive network of car-free carriage roads are ideal for riders of all skill levels. If you’d like to combine shuttling with bicycling, note that the Island Explorer buses have racks that accommodate up to 6 bikes, but popular routes (particularly afternoon return trips from Jordan Pond) can fill up quickly. For a better chance of catching a ride with your bike, look up the schedule for the Island Explorer Bicycle Express bus, which has a trailer that fits 12 bikes.
To take in the main sites in 2.5-3 hours, Acadia National Park Tours (207/288-0300, www.acadiatours.com, $30 adults, $17.50 children 12 and under) runs a bus contracted with the NPS to give sightseeing tours of Park Loop Road. The 2.5-hour narrated trip includes three 15-minute stops to stretch your legs and snap photos, and tickets can be purchased from Testa’s Restaurant (53 Main St., Bar Harbor, 207/288-3327, 8am-9pm daily).
At 1,528 feet, this rounded granite mountain is the highest point on the Atlantic Seaboard. The summit is gouged with deep, north-south scratches left by retreating glaciers, and leathery, subalpine plants sprout from the rocky crevices. Even on a summer day, it’s easy to imagine the icy winds that howl across the mountain in the winter, stunting spruce and pitch pine trees into gnarled miniatures. In the booming tourist years of the late 19th century, a narrow-gauge cog railway was built to the top of the mountain, much like the railway up Mount Washington, but those tracks are long gone. These days, visitors hike or drive to the summit, where there’s a gentle, scenic trail and views across Penobscot Bay.
view from Cadillac Mountain
Watching the sun come up from the peak of Cadillac Mountain is an iconic part of the Acadia National Park experience. In the fall and winter months, it’s the first place in the United States to see the sunrise.
The 3.5-mile Cadillac Mountain Road, off the Park Loop Road, winds up the mountain, which is how most visitors arrive in the early morning hours, though there are also several walking trails to the summit. The most scenic of these is the South Ridge Trail, a 7-mile round-trip hike that starts near Blackwoods Campground and climbs 1,350 feet at a steady, moderate pace. If you’re hoping to catch the sunrise after hiking the trail, plan to bring lights and warm clothing, and allow 2-4 hours each way, depending on your hiking speed.
Although it is often crowded, it’s possible—especially outside of high season—to find yourself alone on the summit as dawn breaks over Penobscot Bay, lighting up islands and deep forests. A more likely scenario involves clusters of chatting families and several sleepy hikers who started up the peak in the middle of the night. Inevitably, though, the crowd begins to thin as soon as the sky lights up, and one of the nicest times to enjoy the short 0.3-mile Summit Loop is when everyone else heads to Bar Harbor for breakfast.
Passing headlands, trailheads, beaches, and stunning views of Penobscot Bay, the 27-mile Park Loop Road winds through some of Acadia’s finest scenery. Traffic moves one way—clockwise—from the main entrance near Hulls Cove Visitor Center to Jordan Pond, then two-way traffic completes the loop and heads all the way up to the summit of Cadillac Mountain. Alternate entrances, where passes are also checked, are at Sieur de Monts, south of Bar Harbor; Sand Beach; Stanley Brook, by Seal Harbor; and off Route 233, just north of Cadillac Mountain Road. For much of the one-way section, parking is allowed in the right-hand lane, which makes it easy to spot a view and pull over for a closer look. It also means the road is often full of unexpected parked cars, pedestrians, and cyclists (along with the occasional moose), so it’s important to take the Park Loop Road at a careful pace. There are also several low bridges that may be a problem for some RVs—the lowest of these is the 10-foot, 4-inch span across the Stanley Brook Entrance.
Driving the whole road at once is a nice way to get an overview of the park, but allow plenty of time to stop for picture-taking, tide pooling, walking, and otherwise exploring. From the main entrance at Hulls Cove, the road rises steeply to Sieur de Monts, where the small Wild Gardens of Acadia re-creates typical habitats found on Mount Desert Island, from heath to coniferous forest, with over 400 species of indigenous plants.
One of the finest places to swim on the whole island is Sand Beach, where a parking lot and short walking trail lead to a pleasant stretch of beach and Great Head. Along the rocky coast that follows, be sure to stop at Thunder Hole, a deep inlet with a submerged cavern that can roar and send water 40 feet into the air when waves hit just right; for the best show, try to visit two hours before high tide.
The horizon opens back up at Otter Cliff, a 110-foot granite wall that’s one of the tallest coastal headlands this side of Rio de Janeiro. After the turn back inland, the Jordan Pond House is a traditional stopping-off point for afternoon tea and hot popovers, with a view of a glacial tarn and distant mountains. Finally, a side road rises through a series of switchbacks to the park’s grand attraction, the road to the top of Cadillac Mountain.
Concerned that Mount Desert Island would be destroyed with the introduction of automobiles, John D. Rockefeller Jr. started building a vast network of roads in 1913, determined they would remain closed to motorized traffic. Today, the 47 miles of crushed-stone roads are perfect for walking and biking as well as a favorite destination of cross-country skiers in the winter. The roads curve gently through a forest of birch, beech, and maple trees, over beautifully crafted granite bridges, and through tunnels and arches, perfect for exploration by bicycle. Numbered wooden signposts at each intersection make it easy to find your way around. A park map, available at the visitors center, is essential for exploring the carriage roads, which continually intersect with the Park Loop Road and other roads on the island. Two of the most popular parking areas for accessing the carriage roads are at Sieur de Monts and the Jordan Pond House.
biking the carriage roads of Acadia National Park
A Carriage Road User’s Map is available from the Park Service, and bicycles can be rented in Bar Harbor from Acadia Bike (48 Cottage St., 800/526-8615, www.acadiabike.com, $18 half day, $23 full day). To really immerse yourself in Rockefeller’s vision of Acadia, though, take an actual carriage ride. Carriages of Acadia (Wildwood Stables, Park Loop Rd., 207/276-3622, tours from $22 adults, $14 children 6-12, $9 children 4-5) offers a range of jaunts in horse-drawn carriages, including tours of stone bridges, trips to Jordan Pond for popovers, and a climb to the top of Day Mountain.
Set on the edge of a rocky sea cliff, the scenic Bass Harbor Head Light (Bass Harbor Head Rd., off Rte. 102A) is at the southern extreme of Mount Desert Island. The lighthouse itself is a private residence, but it’s a scenic spot to catch the morning light. For the classic photograph of the lighthouse above the rocks, take the staircase at the eastern end of the parking lot and shoot back toward the cliffs.
This pair of tranquil gardens is a must-see for plant lovers and a convenient side trip from the Park Loop Road.
Thuya Garden (Rte. 3, Northeast Harbor, www.gardenpreserve.org, 7am-7pm daily May-Oct., trails and garden accessible during off-season weather permitting, $5 requested donation) is in the semiformal English style, with butterfly gardens, pavilions, and a pretty reflecting pool. To approach the gardens from Park Loop Road, head southwest and continue on Stanley Brook Road, turning right onto Route 3. A sign on the harbor side of Route 3 marks a small parking area opposite the Asticou Terrace Trail, whose great, granite switchbacks climb 0.25 mile to the Thuya Garden gates, passing a trailside shelter and lookout.
For Asticou Azalea Garden parking, head north on Route 3 and turn right on Route 198. Beginning in late May, the Asticou Azalea Garden (Rte. 3 and Rte. 198, Northeast Harbor, www.gardenpreserve.org, daylight hours daily May-Oct., free) is a riot of bright blooming rhododendrons and azaleas that give way to irises and water lilies in July and August. Its design celebrates attributes of Japanese gardens—circular paths, garden rooms, and carefully tended views—and it was built in 1956 using plants from the Bar Harbor garden of Beatrix Farrand, a groundbreaking gardener who was a founding member of the American Society of Landscape Architects.
To visit the gardens on the Island Explorer shuttle, ask the driver on Route #5 or Route #6 to drop you at either location, then flag a passing bus to continue onward. It is possible to connect the two gardens on foot by taking the sidewalk on Route 3 from the Asticou Azalea Garden to the Asticou Terrace Trail.
There is a lifetime of hiking available in Acadia National Park, and the park rangers are experts at helping you find just the right trail. The following are a few favorites on Mount Desert Island; for all of these hikes, it’s essential to bring an Acadia National Park map (available for free at all information centers). While most of the trails are easy to follow, the many trails that intersect within the park would be impossible to navigate without a map.
This strenuous, 3.5-mile hike to the summit of Cadillac Mountain departs from the Park Loop Road near Blackwoods Campground, passing through thick forest, then emerging onto pink granite with gorgeous views of the surrounding mountains. Hike the South Ridge Trail as an out-an-back, or continue down the other side, following the 2.2-mile North Ridge Trail to a trailhead on the one-way section of the Park Loop Road, where you can flag down an Island Explorer shuttle.
For fabulous views to Somes Sound and the ocean, the 1.8-mile round-trip walk up Acadia Mountain is a favorite; with 500 feet of elevation gain, it’s an easier peak to hike than Cadillac Mountain. The clearly marked parking lot for the Acadia Mountain Trail is on Route 102, 3.1 miles north of Southwest Harbor.
The “quiet side” of Mount Desert Island has plenty of hikes as well, and these are often less busy than the eastern trails. On the southern edge of the island, the 1.3-mile round-trip Ship Harbor Trail is a good place to walk through scenic coastal forest offering views along a deep inlet, and the 1.5-mile round-trip Wonderland Trail is just up the road, with great tide pools on a rocky beach, and a jumble of granite boulders. For the trailheads, drive south from Southwest Harbor and turn left onto Route 102A to follow the coast. The clearly marked Wonderland Trailhead is 4.1 miles past the turnoff onto Route 102A, and the Ship Harbor Trailhead is a short distance farther. Both have parking lots.
Sure-footed hikers can head up one of the island’s “iron rung” trails, where the paths are supplemented by metal bars set directly in the granite. The strenuous Beehive Trail is one of these, with exposed, stony sections along the south face of the 520-foot Beehive peak that make the hike seem longer than its 1.6 miles round-trip. To reach the trailhead, leave your car in the Sand Beach parking lot (which is also a stop on the Island Explorer shuttle bus) and cross the Park Loop Road.
Fluctuating water levels strand sea creatures in rocky pools all along the Mount Desert Island coast, but finding them involves careful planning. Pick up a copy of the Acadia Weekly or stop by any of the ranger stations for information on the tides, which range between 10 and 15 feet around the island. The best time to spot wildlife is 1.5 hours before and after extreme low tide.
When searching for tidepools, bring a pair of shoes with good traction that you don’t mind getting wet and sandy, and pay close attention to water levels, as some rocky outcroppings can be stranded by rising water.
One favorite way to explore is by walking to Bar Island from downtown Bar Harbor (follow Bridge St.); for 1.5 hours before and after low tide, a 0.8-mile gravel bar that leads from the end of Bridge Street is exposed. There are walking trails on the tiny island, and the outgoing tide usually leaves some sea stars and crabs in sandy tidepools along the bar.
On the southwest side of the island, Ship Harbor and Wonderland Trails are also good choices, with plenty of nooks and crannies to trap interesting things in the intertidal zone. Ranger-led tidepool programs (www.nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/calendar.htm) are held at Ship Harbor and Sand Beach in July and August. Drive south from Southwest Harbor and turn left onto Route 102A to find the well-marked Wonderland Trailhead 4.1 miles past the turnoff onto Route 102A, and the Ship Harbor Trailhead a short distance farther. Both have parking lots.
Get a harbor seal’s view of the island’s rugged coast by touring in a sea kayak. A handful of well-regarded operators lead trips open to paddlers of all skill levels. Visit the remoter western side of the island with National Park Sea Kayak Tours (39 Cottage St., Bar Harbor, 800/347-0940, www.acadiakayak.com, $48-52), which plans its trips through Western Bay and Blue Hill Bay so you head downwind. Tours last 2.5-3 hours. Acadia Park Kayak Tours (Bar Harbor, 207/266-1689, www.acadiaparkkayak.com, $45-60) launches right in downtown Bar Harbor and schedules exciting nighttime stargazing tours. Tours run 3.5-4 hours.
There are two beaches in Acadia with summer lifeguards. The water at Sand Beach, just off the Park Loop Road, stays in the high 50s throughout the summer, but that’s warm enough for plenty of visitors; come here for saltwater, views, and a beach vacation atmosphere. Find (somewhat) warmer water at Echo Lake Beach, on the west side of Route 102 between Somesville and Southwest Harbor. The lake floor drops gradually from the shoreline, making this a good choice for families with children.
If Maine’s lobstermen had a celebrity spokesperson, it would have to be Captain John Nicolai of Lulu Lobster Boat Ride (55 West St., Bar Harbor, 207/963-2341, www.lululobsterboat.com, 2-hour tour $35 adults, $32 seniors and U.S. military, $20 children 6-12), who keeps up a great running patter about the lobstering life (and the life of a lobster). Come April-early June to spot adorable baby seals lolling around near Egg Rock Lighthouse.
By far one of the best things to do on the island with nature-loving kids is head out on a Dive-In Theater Boat Cruise (105 Eden St., Bar Harbor, 207/288-3483, www.divered.com, $42 adults, $37 seniors, $32 children 5-11, $16 children under 5) with “Diver Ed.” Ed (and his sidekick “mini Ed”) suit up in scuba gear equipped with underwater microphones and cameras. The crowd on decks can follow along, then Ed reappears with underwater creatures that kids can touch before sending them back to the ocean floor. The boat departs from the College of the Atlantic, where you can park for free in the North Lot.
A classic style of sailboat along the East Coast is the Friendship sloop, a graceful, gaff-rigged boat that originated in Friendship, Maine, in the late 19th century. Friendship sloop Surprise, operated by Downeast Sailing Adventures (Cranberry Island Dock, Southwest Harbor, 207/288-2216, www.downeastsail.com, 2-hour sail $50 pp, private sail $125 per hour for up to 6 people), has been sailing the Maine coast since 1964 and offers an intimate, beautiful way to experience it.
The Jordan Pond House is the only restaurant in the park proper, but there are places to eat scattered around the island, and some make great destinations unto themselves.
Enjoying popovers and tea on the lawn at S Jordan Pond House (2928 Park Loop Rd., Seal Harbor, 207/276-3316, www.acadiajordanpondhouse.com, 11am-9pm daily, $7-25) is a classic Acadia experience: The warm, oversized pastries are perfect with melting butter and house-made strawberry jam, and the restaurant has stunning views of the glacial tarn with the granite “bubbles” in the background. The restaurant itself was rebuilt in 1979 and the interior is fairly charmless, but the afternoon tea experience is delightful and should not be missed.
Jordan Pond House doesn’t completely own the popover world on Mount Desert Island. While it has no views to speak of, everyone agrees S Common Good Kitchen Café (19 Clark Point Rd., Southwest Harbor, 207/266-2733, www.commongoodsoupkitchen.org, 7:30am-11am daily May-Oct., by donation) would win hands down in a popover-to-popover showdown. A simple menu of oatmeal, coffee, and popovers is served by volunteers on a sunny patio, with all proceeds going to a meal delivery service for disadvantaged islanders during the winter months.
With a location between Route 102 and Route 3, Mainely Meat BBQ (15 Knox Rd., Bar Harbor, 207/288-9200, www.atlanticbrewing.com, 11:30am-8pm daily May-Oct., $11-19) is the convenient and casual on-site restaurant of Atlantic Brewing Company (10am-6pm daily May.-Oct., free tastings). Large portions of barbecue basics come with coleslaw, potato salad, and baked beans; ribs are a favorite for many visitors. Tours of the brewery are at 2pm, 3pm, and 4pm daily during peak season, and are capped at 25 people.
A menu of sandwiches, seafood, and pizza served in a family-run diner setting makes the Quietside Café (360 Main St., Southwest Harbor, 207/244-9444, 11am-10pm Mon.-Sat., 11am-9pm Sun., hours vary in off-season, $6-12) a mainstay for laid-back lunches, dinners, and ice cream. The butter lobster stew is a favorite, and the blueberry pie à la mode also gets rave reviews.
If this lobster-loving author had to choose just one of the many lobster places to eat in Maine, it would be S Thurston’s Lobster Pound (9 Thurston Rd., Bernard, 207/244-7600, www.thurstonforlobster.com, 11am-9pm daily, $7-30), just outside the park off Route 102 in Bernard. Consider arriving early or late to avoid the line, which can stretch far out the door, but it’s worth making an evening trip to the “quiet side” for a traditional lobster dinner or an overstuffed lobster roll (perhaps followed by sunset at the Bass Harbor Head Light). The restaurant has two sides: Line up on the right to order a whole lobster dinner or sit in the main dining area, or head to the left to sit in the bar, where the rest of the menu is available. You can also sit in the bar with a lobster dinner—it just needs to be ordered in that long line. It’s not an unpleasant wait, though, as it’s fascinating to watch the servers run in and out with great bags of clams and lobsters to drop in the industrial-sized boiler outside. A casual atmosphere, local beers on tap, and views of the pretty harbor make this a true gem.
A couple of campgrounds are within Acadia National Park’s boundaries, but there are no hotels or inns within the park itself; lodging listings here cover places to stay on the “quiet side” that are still convenient to park activities and sights.
Completely surrounded by national park land, the Otter Creek Inn (47 Otter Creek Dr., 207/288-5151, www.ottercreekmaine.com, May-Oct., $115-180) is a perfect place (almost) for non-campers to stay in Acadia. The rooms and cabins are simple but sufficient, and a continental breakfast is served in the attached market. Some guests have noted the rooms’ thin walls, but the price, which drops below $100 outside of peak season, is hard to beat.
The self-contained units at S Acadia Cottages (410 Main St., Southwest Harbor, 207/244-5388, www.acadia-cottages.com, $140-170) are simple and old-fashioned, but well-appointed kitchens, outdoor fire pits, and comfortable mattresses are a cut above other cabins on the island. Wooded grounds make these feel relatively private, and the cottages are walking distance from Southwest Harbor.
Views of Southwest Harbor and a friendly, hospitable atmosphere are the draws at Clark Point Inn (109 Clark Point Rd., Southwest Harbor, 207/244-9828, www.clarkpointinn.com, $169-239), which has five guest rooms cheerfully decorated in country style. Three-course breakfasts, afternoon cookies and snacks, and welcoming common spaces make this a favorite with adults-only guests.
Perched on the end of Somes Sound, The Claremont Hotel (22 Claremont Rd., Southwest Harbor, 207/244-5036, www.theclaremonthotel.com, inn $220-342, cottages $318-444) is an 1884 grande dame that rambles across a six-acre, waterfront property. The 24 rooms in the main house have been recently renovated, but are full of historical charm, their old-fashioned quirks left intact (which is not necessarily to everyone’s taste). This feels like a glimpse of old Maine, and for afternoons on the porch, games of croquet on the perfectly trimmed lawn, and sunset drinks at a dockside bar, it remains a wonderful destination.
Only two of the campgrounds on Mount Desert Island are inside the park proper, set on the southernmost part of Mount Desert Island on opposite sides of Somes Sound. It’s worth reserving either of these far in advance for busy times, but each sets aside a small number of non-reservable sites. Call first thing in the morning to check availability. Blackwoods Campground is right on Park Loop Road (Rte. 3, 207/288-3274, www.nps.gov/acad, May-Oct. $30, Apr. and Nov. $15, free primitive sites available Dec.-Mar.), adjacent to an Island Explorer shuttle stop and convenient to Bar Harbor and Cadillac Mountain. The 306 forested sites often fill up; the campground can feel busy and noisy during peak season. There’s no hookups or showers, but free firewood is provided, and a spot just outside the entrance offers hot, coin-operated showers. Or set up your tent on the “quiet side” at Seawall Campground (Rte. 102A, 207/244-3600, www.nps.gov/acad, late May-early Sept., $22-30), 18 miles from Bar Harbor, and a prime location for beautiful sunsets on the shore as well as access to less trafficked hikes and Bass Harbor Head Light. Like Blackwoods, Seawall has no hookups or showers, but it offers coin-operated showers and a general store five minutes away. Many cell phones get no reception on this side of the island.
The privately owned S Mount Desert Campground (516 Sound Dr., off Rte. 2, 207/244-3710, www.mountdesertcampground.com, late May-early Oct., $39-69) splits the difference, with a superb location at the head of Somes Sound that’s the perfect jumping-off point for exploring all of the island. Tent sites roll right up to the water (pricing varies depending on the season and proximity of the site to the water), hookups are available, and the campground rents all kinds of boards and boats for getting in the sound, as well as a launching ramp for private boats. Bathhouses have free hot showers, and the small, convivial “gathering place” offers wireless Internet, snacks, coffee, and ice cream.
There’s a summer camp atmosphere at Hadley’s Point Campground (33 Hadley Point Rd., off Rte. 3, 207/288-4808, www.hadleyspoint.com, mid-May-mid-Oct., tents $27-30, hookups $37-48, cabins $60-80), making it a good choice for families, though tent sites are set close together and don’t provide much privacy. A heated swimming pool, coin-operated showers, laundry facilities, a playground, and wireless Internet are available. The campground is on the Island Explorer shuttle bus route for easy access to Bar Harbor, and there’s a public beach within easy walking distance. The rustic, tidy cabins have private bathrooms, three beds, and a fire pit (bring your own linens).
Facing the eastern side of Mount Desert Island, on the mainland Schoodic Peninsula, this quiet section of Acadia National Park is perfect for exploring when the main site starts getting overcrowded. You can reach the Schoodic Peninsula from the mainland, or hop a ferry from Bar Harbor, then get around by car, bike, or on the Island Explorer.
This scenic, 6-mile loop road passes through some of the most spectacular scenery on the Schoodic Peninsula, with a turnout to Schoodic Point, the jutting tip of the peninsula, which commands great views of the Atlantic Ocean and Mount Desert Island.
Much of the road is one-way, traveling from Winter Harbor, then looping counter-clockwise toward Birch Harbor, with a series of picnic spots and pullouts, often with short walking trails. RVs are not allowed past Schoodic Woods Campground.
Far less trafficked than the Mount Desert Island section of the park, the Schoodic Peninsula is great for bicycles. The highlight is the Schoodic Loop Road, but it’s possible to explore all day by linking the paved road to the 8.3 miles of off-road bike trails that loop through the interior of the peninsula. For a complete circuit, start riding the Schoodic Loop Road at the Schoodic Woods Campground, then return to the starting point on the trails, cutting back west just before the one-way section of the road ends at Bunker Harbor.
The newest campground in the Acadia National Park network, Schoodic Woods Campground (54 Far View Dr., Winter Harbor, 207/288-3338, www.recreation.gov, tents $22-30, RVs $30) has 93 sites, including a section of walk-in-only spots that’s great for a secluded night in the woods. There are campfire rings and a dump station, but no showers, and the closest supplies are two miles away in Winter Harbor. The campground is located on the Schoodic Peninsula Island Express loop.
Maps and information are available at the Schoodic Woods Campground nature center (54 Far View Dr., Winter Harbor, 207/288-3338, www.recreation.gov, 8am-10pm daily, off-season hours may vary), which is a good first stop for maps and information.
The Schoodic Peninsula is south of Route 1, linked to the highway by Route 186, which passes through the community of Winter Harbor.
To reach the Schoodic Peninsula from Mount Desert Island, take the Bar Harbor Ferry (Bar Harbor Inn Pier, 7 Newport Dr., 207/288-2984, www.barharborferry.com, late June-Sept., round-trip tickets $26 adults, $16 children under 12, $75 families) to the tiny town of Winter Harbor on the Schoodic Peninsula.
It’s possible to reach all the key sites on the Schoodic Peninsula on the #8 loop of the Island Explorer (207/667-5796, www.exploreacadia.com), which connects with the ferry terminal in Winter Harbor.
Times have changed since the first 19th-century “rusticators” came to Bar Harbor for society parties with wilderness views. The stunning landscape of forested islands is still there, but the town itself can feel overstuffed and kitschy, an ice cream-fueled frenzy of T-shirt shops and lobster souvenirs. Still, Bar Harbor is the “town” for Mount Desert Island, with restaurants, museums, services, and loads of places to stay. This is the jumping-off point for many boat cruises and activities, and a perfect foil to the quiet trails and mountaintops inside Acadia National Park.
Bar Harbor
Step into the world of Mount Desert Island’s earliest locals at the Abbe Museum, which has two campuses focusing on modern-day and bygone Wabanaki lives. Visit the Abbe Museum downtown location (26 Mount Desert St., 207/388-2519, www.abbemuseum.org, 10am-5pm daily May-Oct., call for off-season hours, $8 adults, $4 children 11-17, children under 11 and Native Americans free) for a stronger focus on today’s Wabanaki, along with stories from the past and a few artifacts. Located inside Acadia National Park, the Abbe Museum at Sieur de Monts Spring (Sieur de Monts, Park Loop Rd. and Rte. 3, 10am-5pm daily late May-mid-Oct., $3 adults, $1 children 11-17, children under 11 and Native Americans free) is much smaller, but has fascinating artifacts and depictions of archaeological digs in the area. A ticket to Abbe Downtown also includes admission to the Sieur de Monts Spring venue, and the cost of the Abbe Museum at Sieur de Monts Spring ticket is deducted from the admission price if you visit the downtown location as well.
Small but interesting, the Bar Harbor Historical Society Museum (33 Ledgelawn Ave., 207/288-3807, www.barharborhistorical.org, 1pm-4pm Mon.-Fri. June-Oct., by appointment in winter, free) has a remarkable collection of images from the town’s Gilded Age heyday—think lots of full-length tennis skirts and boating parties. The 1916 building in which it’s housed is as intriguing as the contents. It was built by Colonel and Louise Drexel Morell (who appear in stained-glass windows on the 2nd floor). Louise was sister to Saint Katherine Drexel, who gave up her share of the family’s considerable fortune to become a missionary in the American Southwest. She was a strong advocate for Native American and African American rights and was canonized in 2000.
Follow the life of a lobster from itsy-bitsy hatchling to full-grown, claw-snapping adult at Mount Desert Oceanarium (1351 Rte. 3, 207/288-5005, www.theoceanarium.com, 9am-5pm Mon.-Sat. mid-May-late Oct., $15 adults, $10 children), a bayside nature center with a lobster hatchery, live seals, and marsh trails. The museum tour, a series of three 30-minute presentations, is a bit long and stationary for active kids, but Audrey and David Mills have been talking lobsters for years and are a great source of info about Maine’s marine ecology.
There’s a 0.8-mile gravel bar leading from downtown to Bar Island, a path that’s only exposed for 1.5 hours before and after low tide. To reach the Bar Island Trail, follow Bridge Street to the end, then keep walking across the sand, watching for the many tide pools that are exposed by the retreating tide. Once you’re at the island, a small footpath winds through the trees, to an overlook with great views back toward Bar Harbor.
Or you can catch the ships come in and out of the harbor from Bar Harbor’s gentle Shore Path, a paved walking trail that stretches 0.75 mile from the town pier to Wayman Lane. It’s especially nice as a morning walk, when the harbor begins to flood with early sunshine.
After a day of hiking peaks and ocean swimming, Reel Pizza Cinerama (33 Kennebec Pl., 207/288-3811, www.reelpizza.net, pizzas $14-23) beckons; the single-screen theater is stocked with comfy, mismatched couches and counter seats for settling in with pizza and beer. End of June-mid-August, the Bar Harbor Town Band (www.barharborband.org) plays hour-long concerts on the Village Green; shows are at 8pm on Monday and Thursday. Another summer tradition is heading to the Great Room lounge at the Bluenose Inn (90 Eden St., 800/445-4077, www.barharborhotel.com), where pianist Bill Trowell plays laid-back favorites every night at 7pm late May-October.
Many of the shops in Bar Harbor sell variations on a theme—lobster and moose stuffed animals, T-shirts, Christmas ornaments. Find these along Main Street. Before you go on a wildlife expedition, stop by Sherman’s Books & Stationery (56 Main St., 207/288-3161, www.shermans.com, 9am-10:30pm daily), which carries an exceptional selection of bird-watching and wildlife guides and trail maps in addition to a full stock of books and cards. Another fun stop is The Rock & Art Shop (13 Cottage St., 207/288-4800, www.therockandartshop.com, 9am-8pm daily, hours vary seasonally), which does have both rocks and art, but also stuffed fish, skulls, and other fascinating, odd treasures.
In a bright, rambling home on the edge of downtown, S 2 Cats (130 Cottage St., 207/288-2808, www.twocatsbarharbor.com, 7am-1pm daily, $4-9) is a funky gem and the best place for breakfast on the island. Simple breakfast classics like eggs Benedict and blueberry pancakes are done nicely, and the café’s fresh, flaky biscuits come with a dreamy side of homemade strawberry butter. Come early to snag a spot on the deep wraparound porch.
For fresh pastries, espresso, and sandwiches on bagels and house-made bread, Morning Glory Bakery (39 Rodick St., 207/288-3041, 7am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-5pm Sat.-Sun., $3-12) is a longtime favorite. You’ll find a few tables inside (and wireless Internet) at this casual, counter-service spot, but don’t miss the back patio on sunny days, where comfy Adirondack chairs and a little garden await.
A menu of classic seafood options, salads, and pasta is surprisingly reasonable at this waterside spot, given that the S Terrace Grille at the Bar Harbor Inn (7 Newport Dr., 207/288-3351, www.barharborhinn.com, 11:30am-dark daily, $12-30) has the best outdoor seating in town. Tables on the lawn and patio overlook the harbor and Bar Island, making this a great place to catch a sunset over a bowl of chowder or lobster stew. At $39, the lobster bake—a boiled lobster with chowder, clams, mussels, sides, and blueberry pie—is an excellent deal for downtown Bar Harbor.
A quiet atmosphere, simple decor, and a pretty garden make Tea House 278 (278 Main St., 207/288-2781, www.teahouse278.com, 11am-7pm Wed.-Sat., 11am-5pm Sun. mid-May-early Oct., $3-13) a respite from bustling Bar Harbor, and servers are trained in the traditional preparation of Chinese teas. A small menu of snack food includes tea eggs, sweets, nuts, and egg rolls.
Simple, sunny, and laid-back, West Street Cafe (76 West St., 207/288-5242, www.weststreetcafe.com, 11am-9pm daily, $14-30) has a big menu of beef and chicken dinners, pastas, and seafood. The lunch menu of “Earlybird Specials” is served until 6pm, and is an excellent value for an early dinner, especially the $20 lobster plate and $25 lobster dinner with chowder and blueberry pie.
It would be easy to miss Cafe This Way (14 Mt. Desert St., 207/288-4483, www.cafethisway.com, 7am-11:30am and 5:30pm-9pm Tues.-Sat., 8am-1pm and 5:30pm-9pm Sun., breakfast $6-12, dinner $19-28), a restaurant with art nouveau flair that’s tucked down an alley between School and Main Streets. Breakfast omelets, burritos, and blueberry pancakes get raves, and a menu of grilled seafood and salads is full of fresh flavors. While most Bar Harbor kids’ menus are identical lists of fried food and cheesy pasta, Cafe This Way stands out with small plates of grilled meat and seafood served with mashed potatoes and corn on the cob.
Farmers and artisans from around Penobscot Bay attend the Eden Farmers Market (YMCA, 21 Park St., 9am-noon Sun. mid-May-Oct.), which is a great place to find farm-fresh Maine blueberries in season.
There are two ice cream greats in downtown Bar Harbor: The granddaddy is Ben & Bill’s Chocolate Emporium (66 Main St., 207/288-3281, www.benandbills.com, 8:30am-10pm Mon.-Sat., 10am-10pm Sun., $3-7), a candy store with a zillion flavors (including Maine lobster), big servings, and a landmark lobster sculpture out front that’s a classic Bar Harbor selfie spot. The scoop-wielding young Turks of the waffle cone scene are at Mount Desert Ice Cream (7 Firefly Ln., 207/801-4001, www.mdiic.com, 11am-11:30pm daily June-early Sept., hours vary during shoulder season, $3-7), where flavors range from Maine Sea Salt Caramel to Blueberry Sour Cream and Chocolate Wasabi. Not all the flavors are quite so offbeat—President Barack Obama ordered a scoop of plain ol’ coconut while visiting with his family in 2010.
Seriously no frills, Robbins Motel (Rte. 3, 207/288-4659, www.robbinsmotel.com, May-mid-Oct., $39-69) features the rates of yesteryear and rooms to match. Amenities include cable TV, a pool, and wireless Internet, but the overall experience is pretty bare bones.
Right in the heart of Bar Harbor, the YWCA Mount Desert Island (3 Mt. Desert St., 207/288-5008, www.ywcamdi.org, $44, discounts for longer stays) has dorm-like housing for women only, with a large communal kitchen and shared baths. It’s generally important to book well in advance to stay here, but worth asking about last-minute availability.
The smallest cottages at Rose Eden Cottages (864 Rte. 3, 207/288-3038, www.roseeden.com, $55-178) are like nautical dollhouses, with just enough room for a double bed, coffeemaker, and compact bathroom. Each of the 11 cottages is different, some with kitchenettes, second bedrooms, and sitting areas; the largest has a full kitchen. A location on the main road 7.5 miles outside of Bar Harbor means that the sounds of traffic are an issue for some guests, but the owners provide white noise machines, and some units are set farther back on the grassy property, which has a gas grill and laundry facilities for guests. The friendly owners also prepare good-value lobster dinners to go.
One of the best values among the generic digs that line Route 3 is Edenbrook Motel (96 Rte. 3, 800/323-7819, www.edenbrookmotelbh.com, $85-130), which is adjacent to the College of the Atlantic and 1.5 miles outside of Bar Harbor. The simple, superclean rooms have air-conditioning, television and coffeemakers, and the Island Explorer shuttle stops right in front, making it a breeze to head into town or the park.
Smart, whitewashed cottages and tidy motel-style rooms look out on Frenchman’s Bay at S Edgewater Motel and Cottages (137 Old Bar Harbor Rd., 207/288-3941, www.edgewaterbarharbor.com, cottages $82-170, motel $86-145), where a broad lawn dotted with Adirondack chairs gives a resort feel to this five-acre property that’s 6.5 miles from Bar Harbor. The cottage kitchens are stocked with cooking equipment and coffeemakers, and you can spot harbor seals and porpoises from the outdoor decks.
With a location right in downtown Bar Harbor, the S Acacia House Inn (6 High St., 800/551-5399, www.acaciahouseinn.com, $80-195) is a wonderful value, with sweet, simple decor and great breakfasts cooked with lots of local and organic ingredients, including eggs from the friendly innkeepers’ own chickens. All rooms have private bathrooms, organic cotton sheets, and cable TV. The quiet side street the inn sits on lends a surprisingly laid-back atmosphere given the downtown location.
Another downtown gem is the Maples Inn (16 Roberts Ave., 207/618-6823, www.maplesinn.com, $119-219), a charming Victorian bed-and-breakfast with seven well-appointed rooms (one has a detached private bath, while others have private in-room baths). One of the owners is a professional chef who prepares personalized menus and afternoon cookies for guests, and the rocking chairs on the shady front porch are an idyllic place to relax after a day of exploring.
Stylish and luxurious, the Bass Cottage Inn (14 The Field, 207/288-1234, www.basscottage.com, $260-400) strikes a balance between the personal experience of a bed-and-breakfast and the thoughtful service of a top-end hotel. The inn is tucked down a private lane a few minutes’ walk from the waterfront, so it feels like a retreat in downtown Bar Harbor. The 1885 building has been carefully restored with a clean, airy design and comfortable common spaces. Breakfast is prepared to order, and evening wine and snacks create a convivial atmosphere.
The city’s informative website (www.barharborinfo.com) has useful walking maps of the town, and there’s a visitors center (19 Firefly Ln., 207/288-3338, 8am-5pm daily June-Oct.) on the Bar Harbor Green. There are several banks and ATMs located along Main Street and Cottage Street in downtown, and free wireless Internet is available at Jesup Public Library (34 Mt. Desert St., 207/288-4245, www.jesuplibrary.org, 10am-8pm Wed.-Thurs., 10am-5pm Fri.-Sat. and Tues.).
It’s relatively easy to reach Bar Harbor without wheels of your own. Cape Air (a JetBlue affiliate) and Pen Air offer direct flights from Boston to Bar Harbor-Hancock County Airport (www.bhbairport.com); during its months of operation between June and mid-October, the Island Explorer (207/667-5796, www.exploreacadia.com) shuttle has free service from the airport to Bar Harbor. Hertz and Enterprise both offer car rentals at the airport.
The Amtrak Downeaster (800/872-7245, www.amtrakdowneaster.com) runs from Boston along the coast as far as Brunswick, where it’s possible to rent a car or connect with a twice-daily bus service to Bangor on Concord Coach Lines (800/639-3317, www.concordcoachlines.com).
Greyhound (800/231-2222, www.greyhound.com) offers bus service to Bangor from Brunswick and Portland, as does Concord Coach Lines (800/639-3317, www.concordcoachlines.com). From Bangor, Downeast Transportation (207/667-5796, www.downeasttrans.org) operates an afternoon bus to Bar Harbor on Monday and Friday from the Concord Coach station. You can also take the Bar Harbor-Bangor Shuttle van service (207/479-5911, www.barharborshuttle.com, $45, advance reservation required).
As in the national park, the Island Explorer (207/667-5796, www.exploreacadia.com) is the best way to get around Bar Harbor. The Eden Street route connects major hotels along Route 3 with the Bar Harbor Green. For the most part, though, the town is easy to walk on foot. Metered parking is available throughout downtown, but the only RV parking is on Main Street south of Park Street on the way out of town.
A remote stretch of coast with a head-scratcher of a name, “Down East” is the northernmost part of the shore, stretching off toward the wilds of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. While driving toward the Canadian border might look like “up” to the average landlubber, sailors have a downwind run as they catch the prevailing winds that blow toward Lubec, the easternmost point in the mainland United States—hence the name.
Once you get past Mount Desert Island, the crowds will disappear in your rearview mirror, giving way to long stretches of thick forest and the occasional gas station stocked with hunting and fishing gear. What’s the draw? Big tides, big trees, and big country, mostly, or the charm of following Route 1 (U.S. Highway 1), which begins in Key West, Florida, all the way to the edge of the country, and to catch a sunrise from Lubec’s candy-striped lighthouse.
Poking into the Quoddy Narrows that divides Maine and Campobello Island, Quoddy Head State Park (973 S. Lubec Rd., 207/733-0911, www.maine.gov/quoddyhead, 9am-sunset daily, visitors center 10am-4pm daily mid-May-mid-Oct., $4 adults, $1 seniors) is the easternmost point of the mainland United States.
Right at the end is one of the most distinctive lighthouses in Maine, West Quoddy Head Light, a tower whose bold stripes grace just about every Maine lighthouse calendar that goes to print. In point of fact, the 49-foot-high tower is one of only two in the country painted with red and white stripes—a common practice in Canada as it helps them stand out against the snow. While the tower is not open to the public, the keeper’s house has a small museum, and the cliffs are prime viewing for seals, bald eagles, and sometimes even whales.
West Quoddy Head Light
Setting out from West Quoddy Head Light, The Coastal Trail (4-mile round-trip), wraps around the coast, passing Gulliver’s Hole, a dramatic vertical chasm that drops away through the volcanic rock, and ending at Carrying Place Cove, which is ringed by an attractive sandy beach.
Another great walk is the Bog Trail, a 0.5-mile spur that passes through swampy terrain that’s ideal for pitcher plants, Labrador tea, and baked appleberry, common in the wetlands of northern Canada, but a rarity south of the border.
Smoked fish and salted fish used to be big business on this isolated coast, but when Lubec’s local herring processor closed its doors in 1991, it was the last one in the state. Now, the McCurdy Smokehouse Museum (50 S. Water St., 207/733-2197, www.lubeclandmarks.org, 10am-4pm daily, free) preserves that fishy history with displays that show how deeply the lives of Mainers has been entwined with the health of fisheries and global fish markets.
The sign at Frank’s Dockside Restaurant (24 Water St., 207/733-4484, www.franksdockside.net, 11am-7pm Thurs.-Tues., $11-25) announces that all are welcome, including “suits, clam boots, whackies, khakis, squid snaggers, carpet baggers, deadheads & dreads,” and that’s about the size of it. Just about everyone in town ends up at Frank’s, where classic Maine seafood shares a menu with steaks, burgers, and sandwiches. Prepare to wait, but as the sign suggests, there’s some appealing people-watching to do while you’re there.
Find locally brewed craft beer and better-than-average pub food at Lubec Brewing Company (41 S. Water St., 207/733-4555, 2pm-8:30pm Thurs.-Sun., kitchen opens at 5pm, $7-13), which serves darn-good flatbreads topped with local ingredients like fiddleheads, the crisp green tips of ostrich ferns. On nights with live music, or when the open mic night is happening, this is the place to be in Lubec.
Once a sardine factory, the fishy tang is long gone from S The Inn on the Wharf (69 Johnson St., 207/733-4400, www.theinnonthewharf.com, $90-180), a motel-style property with tidy apartments and suites. Decks jut out toward the ocean, and there are kitchen and laundry facilities on-site—shared for the suites, with private versions in the apartments. There’s an attached restaurant that’s an appealing option for fresh seafood.
Full of old-fashioned charm, Peacock House Bed & Breakfast (27 Sumer St., 207/733-2403, www.peacockhouse.com, $115-165) is beautifully cared for and welcoming, with plenty of common spaces to relax with a book after a day of exploring. The owners keep the dining room stocked with fresh coffee and homemade cookies, and the breakfasts are outstanding.
With a mix of tent sites and spots for rigs, the main attraction at Sunset Point RV Park (37 Sunset Rd., 207/733-2272, www.sunsetpointrvpark.com, $30-40) is the view across Johnson Bay. As the name suggests, sunsets are a specialty, but it’s worth rising early to catch the morning sun. If you want to pick up some lobsters or crabs for a boil, the owners have a propane cooker and pots for guest use, and the campground has a small beach for launching kayaks or canoes. The open layout offers little privacy.
A small kiosk on Washington Street is stocked with maps and brochures, and other information is available from Lubec’s Town Hall Office (40 School St., 207/733-2341, www.townoflubec.com).
Lubec is a four-hour drive from Portland, and that’s if you take the interstate, following I-95 and I-295 through the interior forest. Opt for the coastal road, and it’s closer to five hours, not including (the inevitable) traffic. There is currently no bus or train service to Lubec.
Mount Katahdin, the 5,267-foot peak at the heart of this thickly forested park, is more than Maine’s tallest mountain. It’s the northern terminus of the epic, 2,200-mile Appalachian Trail, a summit whose bare, rocky ridges have long inspired adventurers and dreamers alike. In the Abenaki language of the Penobscot people, Katahdin means “The Greatest Mountain,” and it looms large in Maine history. After trying (unsuccessfully) to reach the summit in 1846, Henry David Thoreau wrote about Katahdin’s terrible beauty, which generations since have often compared to New Hampshire’s Mount Washington. While the New Hampshire peak cranes more than 1,000 feet above Katahdin, this is the wilder of the two—no trains or roads to the summit, just a winding, rocky footpath that makes every visitor earn their views.
Day-trippers fill up the lots in Baxter State Park, and while it’s a wonderful outing, spending a night within the park’s boundaries is the best way to experience the silence and scale of the Maine woods. Above all, it’s worth planning ahead, as the park is extremely popular. Some forethought means you can book your parking spot in advance and sleep in one of the sought-after campsites with views to the peak. There is no cell phone service in the park.
There are two entrances to Baxter State Park. If you’re traveling from Millinocket, you’ll follow Baxter Park Road to the Togue Pond Gate, which is by far the most visited, while the northernmost traffic is funneled through Matagamon Gate on Grand Lake Road. While information and maps are available at both gates, the only visitors center is on the road to Togue Pond Gate—a full 42-mile drive from the other entrance. Hours vary, call the reservation line for details (207/723-5140). Admission to the park is $15.
Unless you’re feeling lucky, camping reservations are essential, though last-minute arrivals can sometimes be accommodated at the gate. In addition to the reservation line (207/723-5140), it’s also possible to reserve parking spots in the day-use lot online, ensuring you won’t be turned away upon arrival (www.baxterstatepark.org).
While Mount Katahdin is the heart of the park, there are 200 miles of trail to explore, including day hikes that are far easier than the strenuous trek to the summit. One favorite is the Daicey Pond Nature Trail, beginning at the Daicey Pond Campground. The 1.4-mile loop circles the pond and coincides with the Appalachian Trail. For catching a moose in its favorite hangout, head to Sandy Stream Pond, a 0.5 mile hike from Roaring Brook Campground. To give the moose the space and quiet they need, access to the pond is limited: Arrive early at Togue Pond Gate for one of the first come, first served “moose passes” that are dispensed to hikers.
If you’re planning to take on Mount Katahdin, it’s essential to be prepared—hikers have died on the peak, and many more have been rescued in operations that endanger park staff. The mountain can be summited as a super-strenuous 10.4-mile round-trip day hike from the Katahdin Stream Campground, climbing the Hunt Trail to great views of Katahdin Stream Falls, across a series of open ledges, and up a final stretch to the summit, which you might share with some celebrating thru-hikers who’ve just arrived after months on the trail. Plan between 8 and 12 hours for the round-trip hike.
Mount Katahdin trail marker
There are a handful of ways on and off the mountain, and one great option is to make an overnight trip by hiking in to the backcountry Chimney Pond Campground, spending the night, then rising early for the summit trek. For experienced, strong hikers who don’t mind some exposure and scrambling, walking the spectacular Knife Edge is surely New England’s most dramatic stretch of “trail.” The rocky ridge loops southeast from the summit of Katahdin, then curves back north toward Chimney Pond. It’s impassible in bad weather, as it’s just a walk across the bare rocks, and the tiring descent to Chimney Pond means climbing from one mammoth boulder to the next.
There are no services or restaurants within the park. Approaching from the south, the last services are at the North Woods Trading Post (1605 Baxter State Park Rd., Millinocket, 207/723-4326, www.nwoodstradingpost.com, hours vary, call first), which sells gas, camping fuel, and basic groceries. All other restaurants are located in Millinocket, a 30-minute drive from the southern park entrance.
Perfect for a big breakfast before heading into the woods (or a hearty, post-trail lunch), the Appalachian Trail Café (210 Penobscot Ave., Millinocket, 207/723-6720, 5am-4pm daily, $4-12) is a favorite for hefty servings and a friendly, small-town atmosphere. This is the land of eggs and fresh hash, juicy burgers, and enormous mounds of fries, but the luxurious bread pudding wins raves.
Blessed with a great location on Millinocket Lake, River Drivers Restaurant & Pub (New England Outdoor Center, 30 Twin Pines Rd., Millinocket, 207/723-4528, www.neoc.com, 11am-9pm Mon.-Fri., 7am-9pm Sat.-Sun., $12-34) serves a more grown-up version of post-trail food, from haddock roulade to ribeye steak. Breakfasts are hearty burritos and egg sandwiches, and the Friday fish fry dinner special is a blast (and an excellent deal).
With pizza, beer, and the occasional bonfire out back, Boatman’s Bar & Grill (10 Medway Rd., Millinocket, 207/723-3200, www.threeriversfun.com, 4pm-11pm daily, reduced hours in spring and fall, call first, $7-18) is run by a local river guiding operation, and if you can catch them while they’re serving food, it’s a rowdy way to ease back into civilization.
Anyone not ready to set up camp can find digs in the town of Millinocket, 30 minutes south of the park’s Togue Pond Gate entrance.
With rustic, basic rooms and a friendly, summer camp-like atmosphere, the Appalachian Trail Lodge (33 Penobscot Ave., Millinocket, 207/723-4321, www.appalachiantraillodge.com, bunks $25, shared-bath private rooms $35-55, en suite $95-105) is the place to rub shoulders with the thru-hiker set. If you just want to clean up on your way out of the park, the lodge offers showers for $5 a pop, including towels and soap.
In an old-fashioned house downtown, the Young House Bed and Breakfast (193 Central St., Millinocket, 207/723-5452, www.theyounghousebnb.com, $115-135) is cozy and friendly, and the big front porch is great for relaxing after a day of exploring. The hosts serve a big and hearty breakfast, and they’re able to pack lighter breakfasts to go if you’re rising early for a hike.
There are 11 campgrounds within the park, both front-country and backcountry versions. None of the campgrounds has treated water, so visitors must bring their own, or come prepared to treat the natural sources. Toilets are outhouses, and there are no showers. Visitors with a camping reservation must check in at the gate before 8:30pm. To book campgrounds, call the park’s reservation line (207/723-5140). Campground tent sites are $32, backcountry spots are $21, and rustic cabins are available from $57 (bring your own bedding).
On the northern end of the park, South Branch Pond Campground is among the prettiest, with some lean-tos right at the edge of the water. The pond is excellent for swimming, and the campground lends out canoes and kayaks for a nominal $1 fee.
Earn an excellent night’s sleep on your way to Chimney Pond Campground, a 3.2-mile walk from the Roaring Brook trailhead. Campers have wonderful views across the pond to the Katahdin summit, and it’s perfectly placed for hiking the peak.
The Baxter State Park website (www.baxterstatepark.com) covers all the basics, with maps and reservation information, but hard copies of maps are available to purchase at the park entrances. There are several banks with ATMs on the main drag in Millinocket, as well as a handful of grocery stores, including Hannaford Supermarket (843 Central St., 207/723-8047, 7am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 8am-8pm Sun.).
Baxter State Park is accessed by Baxter State Park Road, and the closest town is Millinocket; the park is 1.5 hours from Bangor. There is no public transit to the park.