In American history, corn is inextricably linked to pre-Colonial days and the tribes of Indians who used easy-to-grow and long-keeping corn as both sustenance and trading currency. The history of corn in the Americas is so long and storied that entire books have been written about the path it forged through our farmlands and economy.
These days, most of the corn we eat has been crossbred for sweeter, plumper ears that keep hold of their fresh flavor and tender texture. But when those first ears of corn start appearing in farmers’ markets and local supermarkets, most of us in the test kitchen turn giddy with excitement, especially since here in the Northeast, we often have to wait until late July or August for true local corn. And then the season is practically over by Labor Day. Not so in the South and the Midwest, where corn season happily stretches across the entire summer.
Regardless of where you live, when fresh corn is piled high, it’s time to get creative. We love perfect boiled or grilled corn (check out our foolproof methods for both), but it’s great prepared so many other ways, too. Corn has a natural affinity for fat and dairy, so it’s no surprise that in Mexico they love to slather it with a spicy mayo mixture after grilling it (see this page). It makes a rich, creamy Roasted Corn and Poblano Chowder, as well as a transcendent sauce for a summer pasta dish in Creamy Corn Bucatini with Ricotta and Basil. And there’s a reason why creamed corn goes back hundreds of years—all you need is water, fresh corn, and cream to turn out a decadent side dish. This is Yankee thrift at its best.
From salsa and relish to fritters and spoonbread to shrimp boil and succotash, there is so much regional history behind the dishes that put corn front and center, and you will find them all here.
shopping and storage
Regardless of variety, look for plump ears with green, pliable husks that are closely wrapped around the ear and clean, pale golden or white silk extending from the tops (the more silk, the better, since it is an indicator of the number of kernels). Don’t peel back the husk and silk (which makes ears less desirable for other shoppers). Instead, gently press on the kernels through the husk; they should feel tightly packed, plump, and firm, with no spots where it feels like there’s an absence of kernels.
To store corn (for up to a few days), wrap it in a wet paper bag and then in a plastic produce bag and refrigerate it. If you want to keep your fresh summer corn sweet all year round, you can freeze it. Blanch the husked ears in boiling water for 5 minutes to deactivate the enzyme that causes the sugar to convert to starch, and then immediately place the ears in a bowl of ice water to halt the cooking. Spread the cooled corn on a clean kitchen towel to dry. Place the dry ears in a zipper-lock freezer bag, squeeze out the air, seal, and freeze for up to six months. The corn may lose some of its crisp texture, but the kernels fare well in cooked recipes.
how sweet it is
It used to be that when you purchased fresh corn, there was a mad dash to bring it home and cook it pronto, before the sugars inside the kernels converted to starch. But those are bygone days. Most corn varieties sold in supermarkets today—whether yellow, white, or bicolor—are classified as “supersweet” and often have sugar contents approaching 35 percent, which is nearly three times higher than the corn of decades ago. This means that the conversion from sugar to starch occurs much more slowly, making it a myth that fresh corn only tastes good the day it is picked. But, if you are buying true local corn, from a small farmer, you may be purchasing a “standard” or heirloom variety, which will start the conversion from sugar to starch more quickly. If shopping at a farmers’ market, be sure to ask the vendor for advice.
vegetable prep
Cutting Corn Kernels from the Cob
To cut kernels off an ear of corn, hold ear on its end inside large, wide bowl and use paring knife to cut off kernels. Depending on size of corn, you will get between ½ cup and ¾ cup of kernels per ear.
Corn “milk” is the term for the sweet pulp and juices that are left behind when kernels are stripped from the cob. Many recipes call for capturing this flavorful thickening liquid to add to dishes such as soups and chowders, risotto, or polenta.
After removing corn kernels from cob, firmly scrape each cob with back of butter knife to remove milk and pulp.
A clean, empty dish rack accommodates many more ears of corn than a colander. Put the ears into the dish rack as you remove them from the pot.
pantry corn products
The United States produces 42 percent of the world’s corn—three times as much as any other nation. Much of that is produced for livestock feed and processed foods. Even so, with all that corn, it’s little wonder that we use it in so many ways other than just as a vegetable.
POPCORN Kernels of popping corn consist of a moist, starchy center sealed inside a tough, dried hull. Heating the kernels softens the starch and turns the moisture into steam, which increases pressure inside until the hull pops into a “flake.”
CORNMEAL Corn kernels are dried and then ground into cornmeal. Stone-ground cornmeal is coarse-textured; finely ground cornmeal is made using steel rollers. Polenta and grits are both types of cornmeal.
CORNSTARCH This thickener is made from the dried ground corn endosperm (which contains starch and protein). It’s often used to thicken sauces, gravies, pie fillings, and other liquids.
CORN SYRUP Corn syrup is made from cornstarch, a complicated process that results in a sweet food syrup. It is about 45 percent as sweet as sugar, is very thick, and doesn’t crystallize. The corn syrup in the baking aisle at the supermarket is not the same as the high-fructose corn syrup used in processed foods.
CORN OIL A relatively modern invention, corn oil was refined for cooking in 1910. The oil is bleached and deodorized; only some trace amounts of flavor compounds remain.
save the cobs for corn stock
Stripped corn cobs will produce a flavorful stock that can enrich polenta, cornbread, and vegetable soups. Cut 8 corn cobs into quarters. Place in large saucepan with 2 quarts water, bring to simmer, and cook for 15 minutes. Strain liquid through fine-mesh strainer. Makes about 7½ cups.
FOOLPROOF BOILED CORN WITH CHILI-LIME SALT
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 30 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS You might think that you don’t need a recipe for boiled corn, but who hasn’t pulled out the ears too early only to reveal underdone, starchy kernels or let them sit in the cooling water too long, turning mushy and shriveled? Corn season is so fleeting that we wanted a foolproof method for perfect corn every time. There are two key variables at play: starches and pectin. As corn heats, the starches in the kernels absorb water, swell, and gelatinize, and the corn “milk” becomes smoother, silkier, and more translucent. Simultaneously, the pectin (essentially the glue holding together the cell walls inside each kernel) dissolves, so the corn softens. The more pectin that dissolves, the mushier the corn becomes. To produce perfectly done, juicy corn every time, we learned that the ideal doneness range is 150 to 170 degrees—when the starches have gelatinized but a minimum amount of the pectin has dissolved. Here’s how you get there: bringing a measured amount of water to a boil, shutting off the heat, dropping in six ears of corn, and letting the corn stand for at least 10 minutes. Even better, the method is flexible: It can accommodate six to eight ears of different sizes, and the ears can sit in the water for up to 30 minutes without overcooking.
CORN
6 ears corn, husks and silk removed
Unsalted butter, softened
Salt
CHILI-LIME SALT
2 tablespoons kosher salt
4 teaspoons chili powder
¾ teaspoon grated lime zest
1. For the corn Bring 4 quarts water to boil in Dutch oven over high heat. Off heat, add corn, cover, and let sit for at least 10 minutes or up to 30 minutes.
2. For the chili-lime salt Combine all ingredients in bowl; set aside.
3. Transfer corn to serving platter and serve immediately, passing softened butter and chili-lime salt separately.
GARDEN-FRESH CORN WITH ZUCCHINI AND HERBS
Serves 4
Total time: 30 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We love fresh corn on the cob during its all-too-brief season, and we’re always on the search for new corn inspiration to jazz up this summer favorite. In this side dish, a variety of fresh garden herbs and a light touch with the cooking are the keys. To capture all of the fresh corn’s natural sweetness, we “milked” the cob by scraping it with the back of a knife. We then briefly sautéed the corn to bring out its summery flavors, and combined it with zucchini (another summertime must-have vegetable), a variety of soft herbs, and the corn “milk.”
5 ears corn, kernels cut from cobs (about 5 cups), cobs reserved
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 zucchini, chopped fine
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons minced fresh basil
1 tablespoon minced fresh chives
1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley
1½ teaspoons lemon juice
Salt and pepper
1. Working over bowl, run back of knife down each corn cob to scrape away milk, reserving milk. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add zucchini and cook until softened and browned at edges, about 3 minutes.
2. Add corn kernels and cook until deep yellow and softened, about 2 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Off heat, stir in corn milk, basil, chives, parsley, and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
VARIATIONS
Garden-Fresh Corn with Sausage and Sage
Omit garlic. Substitute 5 ounces crumbled breakfast sausage for zucchini. Substitute 1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage and 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme for basil, chives, and parsley. Add 1 finely chopped red bell pepper to skillet after cooking breakfast sausage in step 1, and cook until softened, about 1 minute. Stir in 2 tablespoons maple syrup with herbs before serving.
Garden-Fresh Southwestern Corn
Omit garlic. Substitute 1 finely chopped red onion for zucchini. Substitute 3 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro for basil, chives, and parsley. Substitute 2 teaspoons lime juice for lemon juice. Add 1 finely chopped red bell pepper to skillet after cooking red onion in step 1, and cook until softened, about 1 minute. Stir 1 teaspoon minced canned chipotle chiles in adobo sauce in with cilantro before serving.
CREAMED CORN
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 40 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Corn and cream make a fantastic combination; their sweet flavors mingle to bring out the best in each other. Those who dread creamed corn have probably had only the canned version, which contains no cream at all—only water, thickeners, sugar, and who-knows-what else suspended in a gelatinous, gloppy goo. We set out to rescue this dish and return it to its rightful place at the summertime table. To start, we stripped plump, yellow kernels from a stack of husked corn cobs and simmered the kernels gently in water, to deactivate the natural enzymes that might cause the cream to curdle. This cooking liquid turned into a flavorful, concentrated corn broth. To thicken this broth, we blended a portion of the kernels with ¼ cup of cream until smooth and then added this puree back to the rest of the corn in the saucepan, which gave us the perfect texture. Do not substitute frozen corn for fresh.
7 ears corn, kernels cut from cobs (about 7 cups)
1¼ cups water
¼ cup heavy cream
Salt and pepper
1. Combine corn and water in large saucepan and bring to boil over high heat. Cover, reduce heat to low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until corn is crisp-tender, about 20 minutes.
2. Remove saucepan from heat and transfer 1½ cups corn mixture to blender. Add cream, 1⅛ teaspoons salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper and process until smooth, about 1 minute. Stir pureed corn mixture into corn mixture in saucepan and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve. (If creamed corn looks thin, return to low heat and cook gently until thickened slightly, about 3 minutes.)
VARIATIONS
Creamed Corn with Bacon and Scallions
Cook 2 slices chopped bacon in 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat until crispy, 5 to 7 minutes; transfer to paper towel–lined plate. Stir crisped bacon and 2 minced scallions into saucepan with pureed corn before serving.
Creamed Corn with Chipotle and Cilantro
Add 2 teaspoons minced canned chipotle chiles in adobo sauce to blender with corn. Stir 2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro into saucepan with pureed corn before serving.
HUSK-GRILLED CORN
Serves 6
Total time: 50 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Corn is the perfect vegetable to grill because its sweet flavor loves a smoky accent and it’s large enough that you never have to worry about it falling through the grate. Our goal here was to achieve a classic char while preventing the corn kernels from drying out on the fire. We found that initially cooking the ears with their husks on worked best. We then shucked the hot corn, rolled the ears in seasoned butter, and returned them to the grill to caramelize. This way, the kernels achieved a great char but weren’t on the grill long enough to dry out. One last roll in the butter and our corn was ready. The flavored butters can be made ahead and refrigerated for up to three days; bring to room temperature before using. Set up a cutting board and knife next to your grill to avoid traveling back and forth between kitchen and grill.
6 ears corn (unshucked)
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon pepper
1. Cut and remove silk protruding from top of each ear of corn. Combine butter, salt, and pepper in bowl. Fold one 14 by 12-inch piece heavy-duty aluminum foil in half to create 7 by 12-inch rectangle; then crimp into boat shape long and wide enough to accommodate 1 ear of corn. Transfer butter mixture to prepared foil boat.
2a. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter mounded with charcoal briquettes (7 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
2b. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes.
3. Clean and oil grate. Place corn on grill (over coals, with stem ends facing cooler side of grill, for charcoal). Cover and cook, turning corn every 3 minutes, until husks have blackened all over, 12 to 15 minutes. (To check for doneness, carefully peel down small portion of husk. If corn is steaming and bright yellow, it is ready.) Transfer corn to cutting board. Using chef’s knife, cut base from corn. Using dish towel to hold corn, peel away and discard husk and silk with tongs.
4. Roll each ear of corn in butter mixture to coat lightly and return to grill (over coals for charcoal). Cook, turning as needed to char corn lightly on each side, about 5 minutes total. Remove corn from grill and roll each ear again in butter mixture. Transfer corn to platter. Serve, passing any remaining butter mixture.
VARIATIONS
Husk-Grilled Corn with Rosemary-Pepper Butter
Increase pepper to 1 teaspoon. Stir 1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary and 1 minced small garlic clove into butter mixture in step 1.
Husk-Grilled Corn with Mustard-Paprika Butter
Stir 2 tablespoons spicy brown mustard and 1 teaspoon smoked paprika into butter mixture in step 1.
Husk-Grilled Corn with Cilantro-Lime Butter
Stir ¼ cup minced fresh cilantro, 2 teaspoons grated lime zest plus 1 tablespoon juice, and 1 minced small garlic clove into butter mixture in step 1.
Husk-Grilled Corn with Brown Sugar–Cayenne Butter
Stir 2 tablespoons packed brown sugar and ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper into butter mixture in step 1.
MEXICAN-STYLE GRILLED CORN
Serves 6
Total time: 35 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS In Mexico, street vendors add kick to grilled corn by slathering it with a creamy, spicy, cheesy sauce. The corn takes on an irresistibly sweet, smoky, charred flavor, which is heightened by the lime juice and chili powder in the sauce. For our own rendition of this south-of-the-border street fare, we ditched the husks, coated the ears with oil to prevent sticking, and grilled them directly on the grate over a hot fire so the corn could develop plenty of char. The traditional base for the sauce is crema, a thick, soured Mexican cream. But given its limited availability in supermarkets, we replaced the crema with a combination of mayonnaise (for richness) and sour cream (for tanginess). If you can find queso fresco or cotija, use either in place of the Pecorino Romano.
1½ ounces Pecorino Romano cheese, grated (¾ cup)
¼ cup mayonnaise
3 tablespoons sour cream
3 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro
4 teaspoons lime juice
1 garlic clove, minced
¾ teaspoon chili powder
¼ teaspoon pepper
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
4 teaspoons vegetable oil
¼ teaspoon salt
6 ears corn, husks and silk removed
1. Combine Pecorino, mayonnaise, sour cream, cilantro, lime juice, garlic, ¼ teaspoon chili powder, pepper, and cayenne in large bowl; set aside. In second large bowl, combine oil, salt, and remaining ½ teaspoon chili powder. Add corn to oil mixture and toss to coat.
2a. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
2b. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high.
3. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place corn on grill (on hotter side if using charcoal) and cook (covered if using gas), turning as needed, until lightly charred on all sides, 7 to 12 minutes. Transfer corn to bowl with cheese mixture and toss to coat. Serve.
CORN RELISH
Makes four 1-cup jars
Total time: 30 minutes (plus cooling time)
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This bright condiment adds a summery flair to hot dogs, burgers, and sandwiches. Several recipes we tried called for cooking the kernels before packing them into jars. However, we found that this method produced overcooked, rubbery corn. To maintain the crispness of the corn, we used raw corn and let the warm pickling brine do its work in the jar. We stripped the kernels from the cobs, simmered our aromatics in vinegar until softened and stirred in the corn off the heat. We added poblano and red jalapeño chiles for a hint of punchy heat and bright color. Cumin seeds and ground coriander added the right spice without overpowering the mild corn, and some sugar enhanced the natural sweetness of the corn and balanced the tangy vinegar. Heating the jars with hot water and then draining them before adding the hot relish ensures that the jars won’t crack from the abrupt temperature change. The relish can be refrigerated for up to one month; its flavor will deepen over time.
1¼ cups cider vinegar
¼ cup sugar
2½ teaspoons salt
¾ teaspoon cumin seeds
¼ teaspoon ground coriander
2 poblano chiles, stemmed, seeded, and cut into ¼-inch pieces
2 red jalapeño or Fresno chiles, stemmed, seeded, and chopped fine
1 small onion, chopped fine
4 ears corn, kernels cut from cobs (about 4 cups)
1. Bring vinegar, ¼ cup water, sugar, salt, cumin seeds, and coriander to boil in Dutch oven over high heat. Add poblanos, jalapeños, and onion; reduce heat to medium and simmer until softened, about 5 minutes. Off heat, stir in corn.
2. Fill four 1-cup jars with hot water to warm. Drain jars, then, using ladle, portion relish into jars. Let relish cool completely. Cover and refrigerate before serving.
FRESH CORN SALSA WITH TOMATO
Makes 3 cups
Total time: 40 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Of all of summer’s produce, corn just might be our favorite as a central ingredient for fresh, vibrant salsas: Its juicy, crisp texture lights up simply prepared chicken or fish and is equally terrific with chips. Plus, corn’s natural sweetness makes it an exemplary foil for salsa’s signature spicy chiles and tart citrus juice. The key was how to handle the corn. Grilled corn was impractical and raw corn was too chewy. We found that if we added the kernels to boiling water and then let them sit off the heat for 10 minutes they acquired just the right texture. A little baking soda added to the water softened their hulls so that the kernels burst with crisp sweetness. For the other ingredients, fruits that were sweet but with a hint of acidity (like tomato, pineapple, and peach) worked well. An avocado variation made a nice change of pace. Herbs and chiles were essential additions, as was finely minced shallot. We whisked a tablespoon of vegetable oil and a tiny bit of honey into lime juice for a tangy dressing with enough body to cling to the vegetables. Do not substitute frozen corn for fresh.
2 ears corn, kernels cut from cobs (about 2 cups)
¼ teaspoon baking soda
Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons lime juice
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
½ teaspoon honey
1 tomato, cored, seeded, and cut into ¼-inch pieces
1 shallot, minced
1 jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeded, and minced
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro
1. Bring 2 cups water to boil in small saucepan over high heat. Stir in corn, baking soda, and ¼ teaspoon salt, then let sit off heat for 10 minutes. Drain corn and let cool slightly, about 10 minutes.
2. Whisk lime juice, oil, honey, and ⅛ teaspoon salt together in bowl. Add drained corn, tomato, shallot, jalapeño, and cilantro and toss to combine. Let sit for 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
VARIATIONS
Fresh Corn Salsa with Avocado and Toasted Cumin
Add ½ teaspoon toasted cumin seeds and ⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper to lime juice mixture in step 2. Substitute 1 avocado cut into ¼-inch pieces and 3 thinly sliced scallions for tomato.
Fresh Corn Salsa with Jícama and Pineapple
Substitute ¾ cup pineapple, cut into ¼-inch pieces, and ½ cup jícama, cut into ¼-inch pieces, for tomato. Substitute 1 minced serrano chile for jalapeño.
Fresh Corn Salsa with Peaches and Radishes
Substitute 1 peeled and pitted peach, cut into ¼-inch pieces, and 4 thinly sliced radishes for tomato. Substitute 1 minced habanero chile for jalapeño, and basil for cilantro.
CORN FRITTERS WITH CHIPOTLE-MAPLE MAYONNAISE
Makes 12 fritters
Total time: 45 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A Southern favorite, corn fritters are an irresistible side at a barbecue but also make a delicious appetizer, especially when served with a sweet-and-spicy mayo. The ideal fritter is amazingly crisp and golden brown on the outside, creamy and bursting with sweet corn flavor on the inside. For light—not leaden—fritters, we minimized the number of added fillers, processing some of the kernels to use as a thickener rather than more flour or cornmeal. This also helped the fresh corn flavor shine through. Browning the corn puree in a skillet drove off excess moisture and deepened the flavor even more. Cayenne, nutty Parmesan, and oniony chives balanced the natural sweetness of the corn, and a touch of cornstarch crisped the exteriors and helped provide a wonderful textural contrast with the light and creamy interior.
CHIPOTLE-MAPLE MAYONNAISE
½ cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon maple syrup
1 tablespoon minced canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
FRITTERS
3 ears corn, kernels cut from cobs (about 3 cups)
1 teaspoon plus ½ cup vegetable oil
Salt and pepper
¼ cup all-purpose flour
¼ cup minced fresh chives
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
1 tablespoon cornstarch
Pinch cayenne pepper
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1. For the mayonnaise Whisk all ingredients in bowl until smooth; set aside for serving.
2. For the fritters Process 1½ cups corn in food processor to uniform coarse puree, 15 to 20 seconds, scraping down sides of bowl halfway through processing; set aside.
3. Heat 1 teaspoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add remaining 1½ cups corn and ⅛ teaspoon salt and cook, stirring frequently, until light golden, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to large bowl.
4. Return skillet to medium heat, add corn puree, and cook, stirring frequently, until puree is consistency of thick oatmeal (puree should cling to spatula rather than dripping off), about 5 minutes. Stir puree into corn in bowl. Rinse skillet and wipe dry with paper towels.
5. Stir flour, 3 tablespoons chives, Parmesan, cornstarch, cayenne, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ⅛ teaspoon pepper into corn mixture until well combined. Gently stir in egg until incorporated.
6. Line rimmed baking sheet with paper towels. Heat remaining ½ cup oil in now-empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Drop six 2-tablespoon portions batter into skillet, then flatten with spatula into 2½-inch disks. Fry until deep golden brown on both sides, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer fritters to prepared sheet. Repeat with remaining batter.
7. Transfer fritters to serving platter and sprinkle with remaining 1 tablespoon chives. Serve immediately with chipotle-maple mayonnaise.
FRESH CORN SALAD
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS It’s not hard to find recipes for corn salad, but it’s surprisingly hard to find a good recipe. The standard preparation method—stripping kernels off the cob, adding vegetables (usually tomatoes, onions, and/or peppers), and tossing with dressing—produced salads that were not up to snuff. Instead, browning the kernels lightly in a skillet for a few minutes gave even inferior, out-of-season corn a complex, nutty dimension. As for the dressing, it took equal parts oil and vinegar to create a dressing that balanced the sugary corn. Don’t add the tomatoes to the toasted corn until it is cool, as otherwise the heat from the corn will partially cook them.
2 tomatoes, cored and cut into ½-inch pieces
Salt and pepper
2½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
5 ears corn, kernels cut from cobs (about 5 cups)
2 scallions, sliced thin
1½ tablespoons white wine vinegar
¼ cup minced fresh parsley
1. Toss tomatoes with ½ teaspoon salt in bowl, then transfer to colander. Set colander over bowl and let drain for 30 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add corn and cook, stirring occasionally, until spotty brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to large bowl and stir in scallions, vinegar, remaining 1½ tablespoons oil, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper; let cool to room temperature, about 20 minutes.
3. Stir in drained tomatoes and parsley. Let sit until flavors meld, about 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
VARIATIONS
Watermelon-Feta Fresh Corn Salad
Replace tomatoes with 2 cups watermelon, cut into ½-inch pieces, and 2 cucumbers, peeled, quartered lengthwise, seeded, and cut into ½-inch pieces. Stir 1 cup crumbled feta cheese into cooked and cooled corn. Replace parsley with ¼ cup minced fresh mint.
Arugula–Goat Cheese Fresh Corn Salad
Omit parsley. Replace white wine vinegar with 1½ tablespoons lemon juice. Stir in 2 cups chopped baby arugula and 1 cup crumbled goat cheese with tomatoes.
Tuscan Fresh Corn Salad
Replace white wine vinegar with 1½ tablespoons red wine vinegar. Toss 1 (15-ounce) can rinsed cannellini beans with vinaigrette and hot corn. Replace parsley with 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil.
ROASTED CORN AND POBLANO CHOWDER
Serves 6 to 8
Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS In this appealing and hearty chowder, the sweet flavor of corn is a great counterpoint to the slightly spicy poblano chiles. After stripping the corn kernels from the cob, we tossed them with oil, salt, and pepper, spread them over a baking sheet with halved poblanos on the side, and set the whole thing to broil. In just 10 minutes, we had beautiful charred vegetables with caramelized flavor. Turning to the chowder, we rendered some bacon in the pot and used its fat to cook the onion and garlic; we then added the potatoes, corn, broth, and half-and-half. We whirred a few ladles of the simmered soup in the blender and stirred this puree back into the pot to thicken it (adding some fried tortilla pieces to the blender gave the soup body and deepened the corn flavor). To finish, we added the chopped poblanos, lime juice for acidity, and fresh cilantro for an herbal pop. An array of crunchy and creamy garnishes made this chowder irresistible. Do not substitute frozen corn for fresh.
FRIED CORN TORTILLA PIECES
¾ cup vegetable oil
4 (6-inch) corn tortillas, cut into ½-inch pieces
Salt
CHOWDER
2 poblano chiles, stemmed, halved lengthwise, and seeded
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
5¼ cups fresh corn kernels (about 6 ears)
Salt and pepper
4 slices bacon, chopped fine
1 onion, chopped fine
2 garlic cloves, minced
7 cups chicken broth
1 pound red potatoes, unpeeled, cut into ½-inch pieces
¼ cup half-and-half
2 (6-inch) corn tortillas, torn into 1-inch pieces
1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro, plus leaves for serving
1 tablespoon lime juice, plus lime wedges for serving
Sour cream
Crumbled queso fresco
1. For the fried tortilla pieces Heat oil in 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add tortillas and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer tortillas to paper towel–lined plate. Season with salt and set aside for serving; discard oil.
2. For the chowder Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Line rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil. Toss poblanos with 1 teaspoon oil in bowl. Arrange poblanos cut side down in single column flush against short side of sheet.
3. Toss corn, remaining 2 teaspoons oil, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper together in now-empty bowl. Spread corn in even layer over empty portion of sheet next to poblanos. Broil until poblanos are mostly blackened and corn is well browned and tender, 10 to 15 minutes, flipping poblanos and stirring corn halfway through broiling.
4. Place poblanos in bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let cool for 5 minutes. Peel skins, then chop poblanos into ½-inch pieces; set aside.
5. Meanwhile, cook bacon in Dutch oven over medium heat until crispy, 5 to 7 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towel–lined plate. Add onion and ¼ teaspoon salt to fat left in pot and cook until onion is softened and beginning to brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
6. Add broth, potatoes, browned corn, and ½ teaspoon salt to Dutch oven and bring to simmer, scraping up any browned bits. Cook at vigorous simmer until potatoes are tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Off heat, stir in half-and-half.
7. Transfer 2 cups chowder to blender. Add tortillas and process until smooth, about 1 minute. Return pureed chowder to pot and stir in chopped poblanos. Return to simmer over medium heat. Stir in minced cilantro, lime juice, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ¾ teaspoon pepper. Serve, passing fried tortilla pieces, bacon, cilantro leaves, lime wedges, sour cream, and queso fresco separately.
CRISPY PORK CHOPS WITH SUCCOTASH
Serves 4
Total time: 55 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This one-dish supper features crispy, cornflake-crusted pork chops and a classic succotash with an abundance of fresh corn. For a flavorful and crisp breading for the pork chops, we started with buttermilk for a light texture and tangy flavor, plus garlic and mustard. Crushed cornflakes added a desirable cragginess. To ensure that the breading adhered to the chops, we lightly scored the meat before breading and gave it a short rest before adding the chops to the pan. For the succotash, we chose the classic American vegetable blend of lima beans, corn, and bell pepper, with zucchini for an extra layer of freshness. You can substitute ¾ cup of store-bought cornflake crumbs for the whole cornflakes. If using store-bought crumbs, omit the processing step and mix the crumbs with the cornstarch, salt, and pepper. You can substitute frozen corn, thawed and patted dry, for fresh. We prefer to use a well-seasoned cast-iron skillet in this recipe, but a 12-inch nonstick skillet can be used in its place. Serve with lemon wedges.
3 cups (3 ounces) cornflakes
⅔ cup cornstarch
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme
Salt and pepper
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 cup buttermilk
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 garlic cloves, minced
4 (6- to 8-ounce) boneless pork chops, ¾ to 1 inch thick
½ cup vegetable oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 zucchini, cut into ½-inch pieces
1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into ½-inch pieces
1 small onion, chopped fine
1½ cups frozen baby lima beans, thawed
2 ears corn, kernels cut from cobs (about 2 cups)
1 tablespoon minced fresh tarragon
1. Process cornflakes, ⅓ cup cornstarch, thyme, ½ teaspoon salt, ½ teaspoon pepper, and cayenne in food processor until cornflakes are finely ground, about 10 seconds; transfer to shallow dish. Spread remaining ⅓ cup cornstarch in second shallow dish. Whisk buttermilk, mustard, and half of minced garlic together in third shallow dish.
2. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 200 degrees. Using sharp knife, cut 1⁄16-inch-deep slits on both sides of chops, spaced ½ inch apart, in crosshatch pattern. Season chops with salt and pepper. Working with 1 chop at a time, dredge chops in cornstarch, dip in buttermilk mixture, then coat with cornflake mixture, pressing gently to adhere. Transfer coated chops to plate and let sit for 10 minutes.
3. Set wire rack in rimmed baking sheet and line with triple layer of paper towels. Heat oil in 12-inch cast-iron skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Place chops in skillet and cook until golden brown and crisp on first side, about 5 minutes. Carefully flip chops, reduce heat to medium-low, and continue to cook until golden brown and crisp on second side and pork registers 145 degrees, about 5 minutes. Transfer chops to prepared rack and keep warm in oven.
4. Discard oil and wipe skillet clean with paper towels. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in now-empty skillet over medium heat. Add zucchini, bell pepper, onion, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in lima beans, corn, and remaining garlic and cook until heated through, about 5 minutes. Off heat, stir in remaining 1 tablespoon butter and tarragon and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve chops with succotash.
SOUTH CAROLINA SHRIMP BOIL
Serve 8
Total time: 55 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Just about every coastal hamlet features a clam, crab, or shrimp “bake” or “boil,” and while the particulars vary in terms of combos of ingredients, one remains a constant: the corn. South Carolina is famous for its shrimp boil, which is inspired by Frogmore stew, made by simmering local shell-on shrimp, smoked sausage, corn on the cob, and potatoes in a broth seasoned with Old Bay. We wanted perfectly cooked meat, seafood, and vegetables that were flavored by—but not overwhelmed by—the Old Bay. We began by browning the smoky, spicy andouille sausage to render fat and boost flavor. We replaced some of the cooking liquid (water, in this case) with clam juice, which reinforced the taste of the sea and amped up the flavor. (You don’t eat the broth in this boil, but if it has no flavor, the stuff you do eat won’t either.) We used only enough liquid to barely cover the ingredients. We staggered the ingredients’ cooking times, starting with the potatoes and corn first until the potatoes were almost tender, then adding the sausage and shrimp. This ensured intact potatoes, plump corn, and nicely cooked sausage and shrimp. This dish is always made with shell-on shrimp, and we think peeling them is half the fun of eating this. Use small red potatoes measuring 1 to 2 inches in diameter. You will need a collapsible steamer basket for this recipe.
1½ pounds andouille sausage, cut into 2-inch lengths
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
4 cups water
1½ pounds small red potatoes, unpeeled, halved
4 ears corn, husks and silks removed, cut into 2-inch lengths
1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes, drained
1 (8-ounce) bottle clam juice
5 teaspoons Old Bay seasoning
1 bay leaf
2 pounds extra-large shrimp (21 to 25 per pound)
1. Cook sausage and oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat until sausage is browned, about 5 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer sausage to large plate.
2. Bring water, potatoes, corn, tomatoes, clam juice, 1 tablespoon Old Bay, and bay leaf to boil in now-empty pot. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until potatoes are just tender, about 10 minutes.
3. Nestle browned sausage into pot and place steamer basket over top. Toss shrimp with remaining 2 teaspoons Old Bay and transfer to steamer basket. Cook, covered, stirring shrimp occasionally, until cooked through, about 10 minutes. Transfer shrimp to serving platter. Drain stew, discarding bay leaf and liquid, and transfer to platter with shrimp. Serve.
VEGETABLES REIMAGINED
CREAMY CORN BUCATINI WITH RICOTTA AND BASIL
During the height of summer, when fresh corn is plentiful and perfect, this pasta dish is an inventive way to use it. In fact, here the corn is transformed into a luscious sauce for the pasta. When topped with ricotta and fresh basil leaves, it becomes the essence of summer.
1. Cut the corn kernels from the cobs, positioning the ears in a bowl to catch all the kernels and liquid.
2. Add the corn kernels and milk to a 12-inch skillet and cook over medium heat until simmering, about 4 minutes. This activates the starch in the corn to thicken the mixture and intensifies the corn flavor.
3. Transfer the corn-milk mixture to the blender and let cool just slightly. Then carefully process it until smooth, about 3 minutes, scraping down the sides of the blender as needed.
4. Strain the corn-milk mixture through a fine-mesh strainer into the empty skillet. Meanwhile, cook the pasta in boiling water until just flexible, about 5 minutes. (It will finish cooking in the skillet with the corn sauce.)
5. Add the partially cooked pasta to the corn sauce in the skillet, add 1½ cups reserved cooking water, and cook until the pasta is cooked and well coated with the sauce, 2 to 4 minutes.
6. Turn the pasta out onto a serving platter, dollop with the ricotta, sprinkle with the basil, and serve immediately.
CREAMY CORN BUCATINI WITH RICOTTA AND BASIL
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 45 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS In this ingenious summer recipe, corn serves as the base for a simple, creamy pasta sauce that comes together in a flash. We started by bringing corn and milk to a simmer before blending the mixture to a smooth puree. Corn kernels naturally contain cornstarch, which thickens into a pasta-coating sauce if heated above 150 degrees. Heating also intensifies the characteristic aroma of corn, which is largely due to a compound that is also prominent in the aroma of milk. That means that our puree tasted more like corn, and it also tasted more like milk. Simmering our pasta in this sauce further thickened the sauce to a velvety consistency while ensuring a perfect al dente texture for the pasta. We even added a touch of red pepper flakes for a subtle kick. Finished with dollops of creamy ricotta and fresh basil, this is a satisfying dish that’s great any day of the week. You can substitute 18 ounces frozen corn for fresh. You can also use spaghetti in place of bucatini.
4 ears corn, kernels cut from cobs (about 4 cups)
1 cup whole milk
1 pound bucatini
Salt and pepper
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
6 ounces (¾ cup) whole-milk ricotta
¼ cup fresh basil leaves, torn
1. Bring corn and milk to simmer in 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Carefully transfer corn and milk to blender and let cool slightly, about 5 minutes. Process until smooth, about 3 minutes, scraping down sides of blender jar as needed. Strain corn mixture through fine-mesh strainer into now-empty skillet, pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible.
2. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until pasta is flexible but still firm, about 5 minutes. Reserve 2 cups cooking water, then drain pasta.
3. Stir pasta, 1½ cups reserved cooking water, ¼ teaspoon salt, and pepper flakes into corn mixture in skillet. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until pasta is al dente and well coated with sauce, 2 to 4 minutes. Adjust consistency with remaining reserved cooking water. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
4. Transfer pasta to serving dish, dollop with ricotta, and sprinkle with basil. Serve.
FRESH CORN CORNBREAD
Serves 6 to 8
Total time: 1 hour
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Cornbread falls into two main styles: the sweet, cakey Northern type and the crusty, savory kind more often found in Southern kitchens. Each has its die-hard fans, but—let’s face the facts—neither tastes much like corn. This is because most cornbreads are made with cornmeal alone, and no fresh corn at all. Furthermore, the so-called “field” or “dent” corn used to make cornmeal is far starchier (read: less flavorful) than the sweet corn grown to eat off the cob. So what would it take to get real corn flavor in cornbread? It wouldn’t be as simple as just tossing some fresh-cut kernels into the batter. We found that we needed to add at least 2 whole cups of kernels for the corn flavor to really shine, and that created a slew of problems. Since fresh kernels are full of moisture, the crumb of the cornbread became riddled with unpleasant gummy pockets. What’s more, the kernels turned chewy and tough as the bread baked. So we turned our attention first to the base of the cornbread, using slightly more cornmeal than flour and abandoning fine-ground cornmeal in favor of the stone-ground type, which contains both the hull and the oil-rich germ of the corn kernel. The upshot: a more rustic texture and fuller flavor. For sweetness, honey, maple syrup, and brown sugar all masked the fresh corn taste, but 2 tablespoons of regular granulated sugar fell neatly in line. For the liquid component, traditional tangy buttermilk could not be beat. Turning back to the issue of the corn, we decided to try making a “corn butter” by pureeing fresh kernels and then reducing the mixture on the stove until thick. Using just three ears of corn, we found that the puree thickened and turned deep yellow in minutes, transforming into a “butter” packed with concentrated corn flavor. Added to the batter, this puree turned the tide: For the first time, the cornbread tasted like real corn—and without any distracting chewiness or gumminess. We prefer to use a well-seasoned cast-iron skillet in this recipe, but an ovensafe 10-inch skillet can be used in its place. Alternatively, in step 4, you can add 1 tablespoon of butter to a 9-inch cake pan and place it in the oven until the butter melts, about 3 minutes.
1⅓ cups (6⅔ ounces) stone-ground cornmeal
1 cup (5 ounces) all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons sugar
1½ teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon baking soda
1¼ teaspoons salt
2 ears corn, kernels cut from cobs (about 2 cups)
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 6 pieces
1 cup buttermilk
2 large eggs plus 1 large yolk
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Whisk cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together in large bowl; set aside.
2. Process corn in blender until very smooth, about 2 minutes. Transfer to medium saucepan (you should have about 1½ cups). Cook puree over medium heat, stirring constantly, until very thick and deep yellow and reduced to ¾ cup, 5 to 8 minutes.
3. Off heat, whisk in 5 tablespoons butter until melted. Whisk in buttermilk until incorporated. Whisk in eggs and yolk until incorporated. Transfer to bowl with cornmeal mixture and, using rubber spatula, fold until just combined.
4. Melt remaining 1 tablespoon butter in 10-inch cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Scrape batter into skillet and spread into even layer. Transfer skillet to oven and bake until cornbread is golden brown and toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, 23 to 28 minutes.
5. Remove skillet from oven and transfer to wire rack. Let cornbread cool in skillet for 5 minutes. Remove cornbread from skillet and let cool for 20 minutes before cutting into wedges. Serve.
SWEET CORN SPOONBREAD
Serves 6
Total time: 2 hours
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Spoonbread is a Southern specialty made from a combination of fresh corn and cornmeal, with a texture somewhere on the line between a rich cornbread and a true soufflé. We wanted a fluffy, soufflé-style sweet corn spoonbread with deep corn flavor, one that was light and soft, so we focused first on corn flavor, then on texture. Sautéing the corn in butter, before steeping it in milk and pureeing it, ensured that the sweet corn flavor permeated our spoonbread. To make sure the cornmeal didn’t impart a gritty texture, we soaked it in the milk beforehand to soften it. And to guarantee a stable egg foam and an impressive rise, we beat the egg whites with a bit of cream of tartar. You can substitute frozen corn, thawed and patted dry, for fresh.
1 cup cornmeal
2¾ cups whole milk
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 ears corn, kernels cut from cobs (about 2 cups)
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
3 large eggs, separated
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Grease 1½-quart soufflé dish or 8-inch baking dish. Whisk cornmeal and ¾ cup milk together in bowl; set aside.
2. Melt butter in Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add corn and cook until beginning to brown, about 3 minutes. Stir in sugar, salt, cayenne, and remaining 2 cups milk and bring to boil. Cover pot and let sit, off heat, for 15 minutes.
3. Transfer warm corn mixture to blender and process until smooth, about 2 minutes. Return to now-empty pot and bring to boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to low, add cornmeal mixture, and cook, whisking constantly, until thickened, 2 to 3 minutes; transfer to large bowl and let cool to room temperature, about 20 minutes. Once mixture is cool, whisk in egg yolks until combined.
4. Using stand mixer fitted with whisk attachment, whip egg whites and cream of tartar on medium-low speed until foamy, about 1 minute. Increase speed to medium-high and whip until stiff peaks form, 3 to 4 minutes. Whisk one-third of whites into cooled corn mixture, then gently fold in remaining whites until combined. Scrape batter into prepared dish and transfer to oven. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees and bake until spoonbread is golden brown and has risen above rim of dish, about 45 minutes. Serve immediately.