With their often dark, luminous skin and beautiful shapes, eggplants are an alluring but somewhat mysterious vegetable. Technically a fruit and a member of the nightshade family, eggplants were first cultivated in China, but they have culinary roots across the Mediterranean, the Middle East, and India.
The beauty of eggplants is that they can be prepared in so many ways: They are, in essence, a bit of a chameleon, as they easily take on the flavors of other ingredients or sauces that surround them, as in baba ghanoush or caponata. Their flesh turns creamy and silky when roasted and appealingly tender when sautéed and browned. But they are full of moisture, so the key when cooking with eggplants is to know when and how to salt them to draw out the excess water before cooking to avoid insipid flavors and a mushy texture. Here in the test kitchen, we have learned that there is no hard and fast answer to this question. Oftentimes salting is necessary, but sometimes it is not—for example, there is no need to do so when grilling or stir-frying, as you’ll learn here.
In this chapter, you will find some classic and inventive recipes starring eggplant. Our Walkaway Ratatouille simplifies this usually time-consuming dish, and you will want to make it again and again when farmers’ markets are brimming with eggplants of all shapes and sizes. Three company-worthy Italian dishes are also here, including our authentic yet refined Eggplant Parmesan (no breading or frying required). Our Stuffed Eggplant couldn’t be easier: Simply roast the eggplant, push the soft, creamy flesh to the sides, and add the fragrant stuffing. And since eggplants are happy to absorb pungent spices and chiles, you’ll find two superflavorful stir-fries using slender Japanese eggplant.
shopping and storage
There are many varieties of eggplant, but generally in the supermarket you will find the larger deep purple globe eggplants or the smaller Italian eggplants, as well as sometimes Japanese or Chinese eggplants or specialty eggplants like Thai or Indian. Buy all-purpose globe eggplants unless a recipe specifies a specific type of eggplant. Look for eggplants that are firm, glossy, and without blemishes. The purple varieties should be a deep, rich color, and other varieties should be bright in whatever color they happen to be. A ripe eggplant will feel heavy for its size. Larger eggplants tend to be more bitter and have more seeds than smaller specimens.
The refrigerator is not the best place to store eggplants. It’s preferable to store eggplants uncovered on your kitchen counter away from direct sunlight. But since they are fairly perishable, plan to use them within a few days of purchasing them.
a cure for what ails eggplant
To rid eggplant of excess moisture and collapse the air pockets that make it soak up oil like a sponge, we came up with a novel solution: salting it and then heating it in the microwave. The salt pulls out liquid at the same time the microwave causes the eggplant to steam and compress, making it less spongy. We set it on a layer of coffee filters to soak up the released liquid. By absorbing all of that liquid, the filters also helped to maintain a high salt concentration on the exterior of the eggplant, which drew out even more unwanted moisture.
eggplant varieties
There are countless eggplant varieties, ranging from 2 to 12 inches long, from round to oblong, and from dark purple to striped to white. Here are some of the most common varieties you’ll find in the market.
GLOBE The most common type in the United States, the bulbous globe eggplant has a mild flavor and tender texture that work well in most cooked applications. It not only contains far fewer seeds than smaller varieties like Italian and Chinese, but its firm flesh also retains its shape even after cooking. It is a true multitasker and can be sautéed, broiled, grilled, and pureed. Because of its high water content, it’s often best to salt and drain it before cooking.
ITALIAN Also called baby eggplant, Italian eggplant looks like a smaller version of a globe eggplant. It is a bit more tender than the globe eggplant, with moderately moist flesh, lots of seeds, and a distinct spicy flavor. It can be sautéed, broiled, grilled, and more.
JAPANESE AND CHINESE Both of these types are long and slender, with Japanese having a deep purple hue and Chinese being lighter in color, sometimes almost lavender. Both are thin skinned and have few seeds and creamy flesh. They are perfect for use in grilling or stir-frying.
THAI These eggplants are small and apple shaped and usually have a greenish-white hue. They are becoming increasingly easier to find in large supermarkets. They are notable for tasting bright and grassy, and are appealing even simply eaten raw. They are terrific roasted with pungent spices or used in Thai curries.
INDIAN Also sometimes called baby eggplant, these are smaller and more squat than Italian eggplants, with a dark reddish-purple color. They make a pretty presentation halved and stuffed, and they are great cooked and mashed into dips.
vegetable prep
1. To cut eggplant into tidy cubes, first cut eggplant crosswise into 1-inch-thick rounds.
2. Cut rounds into even 1-inch cubes.
Preparing Eggplant for Stuffing
Using 2 forks, gently push cooked flesh to sides of each eggplant half to make room in center for filling.
BROILED EGGPLANT WITH BASIL
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 40 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS When you want to enjoy eggplant as a simple side dish, broiling it is a great way to do so; while you can jazz it up with a simple glaze if you want, all you really need is a sprinkling of fresh herbs. That said, if you try to simply slice and broil eggplant, it will steam in its own juices rather than brown. So to get broiled eggplant with great color and texture, we started by salting it to draw out its moisture. After 30 minutes, we patted the slices dry, moved them to a baking sheet (lined with aluminum foil for easy cleanup), and brushed them with oil. With the excess moisture taken care of, all the eggplant required was a few minutes per side under the blazing-hot broiler to turn a beautiful mahogany color. With its concentrated roasted flavor, the only accent needed was a sprinkling of fresh basil. Make sure to slice the eggplant thin so that the slices will cook through by the time the exterior is browned.
1½ pounds eggplant, sliced into ¼-inch- thick rounds
Salt and pepper
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
1. Spread eggplant over rimmed baking sheet lined with paper towels, sprinkle both sides with 1½ teaspoons salt (¾ teaspoon per side), and let sit for 30 minutes.
2. Adjust oven rack 4 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Thoroughly pat eggplant dry, arrange in single layer on aluminum foil–lined baking sheet, and brush both sides with oil. Broil eggplant until tops are mahogany brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Flip eggplant and broil until second side is brown, 3 to 4 minutes.
3. Transfer eggplant to serving platter, season with pepper to taste, and sprinkle with basil. Serve.
VARIATION
Broiled Eggplant with Sesame-Miso Glaze
Any type of miso will work well here. Mirin is a sweet Japanese cooking wine; sherry can be substituted for the mirin if necessary.
Substitute vegetable oil for olive oil and 1 sliced scallion for basil. Whisk 1 tablespoon miso, 3 tablespoons mirin, and 1 tablespoon tahini together in bowl. After browning second side, brush with miso mixture, sprinkle with 1 tablespoon sesame seeds, and continue to broil until miso and seeds are browned, about 2 minutes.
GRILLED EGGPLANT WITH CHERRY TOMATOES AND CILANTRO VINAIGRETTE
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 35 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS When grilled, the skin of the eggplant turns beautifully brown and becomes crisp in spots. And the great advantage of grilling is that there is no need to salt the eggplant in advance because the moisture vaporizes or drips harmlessly through the cooking grate into the hot fire. In our tests, we found that thinner slices can fall apart on the cooking grate. Thicker pieces, ideally ¾-inch-thick rounds, can better withstand the rigors of grilling. To impart flavor to the eggplant while we grilled it, we whisked together a mixture of olive oil and minced garlic, brushing it on liberally. Our pungent vinaigrette included shallot, lime juice, and a little cayenne pepper, with quartered cherry tomatoes added for their bright flavor. We spooned this over the grilled eggplant slices for a simple but superflavorful side dish.
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 shallot, minced
2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro
2 tablespoons lime juice
Salt and pepper
Pinch cayenne pepper
6 ounces cherry tomatoes, quartered
2 garlic cloves, minced
1½ pounds eggplant, sliced into ¾-inch- thick rounds
1. Whisk 6 tablespoons oil, shallot, cilantro, lime juice, ¼ teaspoon salt, and cayenne together in medium bowl. Add tomatoes and toss to coat; set aside.
2. Whisk garlic and remaining 3 tablespoons oil together in small bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste. Brush eggplant with oil mixture.
3a. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
3b. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high.
4. Clean and oil cooking grate. Grill eggplant (covered if using gas) until browned and tender, 4 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer to serving platter. Spoon vinaigrette over eggplant. Serve immediately.
SICILIAN EGGPLANT RELISH (CAPONATA)
Makes about 3 cups
Total time: 40 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Sicilian caponata distinguishes itself with boldly flavored eggplant and a sweet-and-sour finish. To make sure the eggplant didn’t turn to oil-soaked mush, we salted and microwaved it to eliminate excess moisture. We used V8 juice to deliver bright tomato flavor. Brown sugar and red wine vinegar enhanced the traditional sweet-and-sour profile. A scoopful of raisins brought additional sweetness, minced anchovies added a rich umami boost, and briny black olives offered balance. Simmering everything together for just a few minutes allowed the mixture to thicken and the flavors to meld. Although we prefer the complex flavor of V8 juice, tomato juice can be substituted. If coffee filters are not available, food-safe, undyed paper towels can be substituted when microwaving the eggplant. Be sure to remove the eggplant from the microwave immediately so that the steam can escape. Serve caponata with slices of toasted baguette or with grilled meat or fish.
1½ pounds eggplant, cut into ½-inch pieces
½ teaspoon salt
¾ cup V8 juice
¼ cup red wine vinegar, plus extra for seasoning
2 tablespoons packed brown sugar
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley
3 anchovy fillets, rinsed and minced
1 large tomato, cored, seeded, and chopped
¼ cup raisins
2 tablespoons minced black olives
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 celery rib, chopped fine
1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and chopped fine
1 small onion, chopped fine
¼ cup pine nuts, toasted
1. Toss eggplant with salt in bowl. Line entire surface of large plate with double layer of coffee filters and lightly spray with vegetable oil spray. Spread eggplant in even layer on coffee filters. Microwave until eggplant is dry and shriveled to one-third of its original size, 8 to 15 minutes (eggplant should not brown). Transfer eggplant immediately to paper towel–lined plate.
2. Whisk V8 juice, vinegar, sugar, parsley, and anchovies together in medium bowl. Stir in tomato, raisins, and olives.
3. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add eggplant and cook, stirring occasionally, until edges are browned, 4 to 8 minutes, adding 1 teaspoon more oil if pan appears dry; transfer to bowl.
4. Add remaining oil to now-empty skillet and heat over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add celery, bell pepper, and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and edges are spotty brown, 6 to 8 minutes.
5. Reduce heat to medium-low and stir in eggplant and juice mixture. Bring to simmer and cook until juice is thickened and coats vegetables, 4 to 7 minutes. Transfer to serving bowl and let cool to room temperature. Season with extra vinegar to taste and sprinkle with pine nuts before serving. (Caponata can be refrigerated for up to 1 week; bring to room temperature before serving.)
WALKAWAY RATATOUILLE
Serves 6 to 8
Total time: 1 hour 45 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Most ratatouille recipes call for labor- and time-intensive treatments like salting and/or pressing to remove excess moisture from the vegetables. We started our streamlined recipe by sautéing onions and aromatics and then added chunks of eggplant and tomatoes before transferring the pot to the oven, where the dry, ambient heat would thoroughly evaporate moisture, concentrate flavors, and caramelize some of the vegetables. After 45 minutes, the tomatoes and eggplant became meltingly soft and could be mashed into a thick, silky sauce. Zucchini and bell peppers went into the pot last so that they retained some texture. Finishing the dish with fresh herbs, sherry vinegar, and extra-virgin olive oil tied everything together. This dish is best prepared using ripe, in-season tomatoes. If good tomatoes are not available, substitute one 28-ounce can of whole peeled tomatoes that have been drained and chopped. Ratatouille can be served warm, at room temperature, or chilled, as an accompaniment to meat or fish, topped with an egg, over pasta, or on its own with crusty bread.
⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 large onions, cut into 1-inch pieces
8 large garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
Salt and pepper
1½ teaspoons herbes de Provence
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 bay leaf
2 pounds plum tomatoes, peeled, cored, and chopped coarse
1½ pounds eggplant, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
2 small zucchini, halved lengthwise and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 yellow bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1-inch pieces
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Heat ⅓ cup oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onions, garlic, 1 teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are translucent and starting to soften, about 10 minutes. Stir in herbes de Provence, pepper flakes, and bay leaf and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in tomatoes, eggplant, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper.
2. Transfer pot to oven and cook, uncovered, until vegetables are very tender and spotty brown, 40 to 45 minutes.
3. Remove pot from oven and, using potato masher, mash eggplant mixture to coarse puree. Stir in zucchini, bell peppers, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper and return to oven. Cook, uncovered, until zucchini and bell peppers are just tender, 20 to 25 minutes.
4. Remove pot from oven, cover, and let stand until zucchini is translucent and easily pierced with tip of paring knife, 10 to 15 minutes. Using wooden spoon, scrape any browned bits from sides of pot and stir back into ratatouille. Discard bay leaf.
5. Stir in 1 tablespoon basil, parsley, and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to large platter, drizzle with remaining 1 tablespoon oil, sprinkle with remaining 1 tablespoon basil, and serve.
BABA GHANOUSH
Makes about 2 cups
Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes (plus 1 hour chilling time)
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS When roasted, eggplant flesh becomes concentrated and turns creamy and soft, making the perfect base for baba ghanoush. Before roasting the eggplants, we pricked their skin to encourage moisture to evaporate during cooking, then roasted them whole in a very hot oven until the flesh was very soft and tender. To avoid a watery texture in the finished dish, we scooped the hot pulp into a colander to drain before processing it. We kept the flavorings simple, processing the eggplant with lemon juice, olive oil, garlic, and tahini. Look for eggplants with an even shape for this recipe, as bulbous eggplants won’t cook evenly. We prefer to serve baba ghanoush only lightly chilled; if cold, let it stand at room temperature for about 20 minutes before serving. Serve with fresh warm pita or raw vegetables for dipping. You will need to refrigerate the dip for at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours.
2 eggplants (1 pound each), pricked all over with fork
2 tablespoons tahini
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for serving
4 teaspoons lemon juice
1 small garlic clove, minced
Salt and pepper
2 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 500 degrees. Place eggplants on aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet and roast, turning eggplants every 15 minutes, until uniformly soft when pressed with tongs, 40 minutes to 1 hour. Let eggplants cool for 5 minutes on sheet.
2. Set colander over bowl. Trim top and bottom ¼ inch of eggplants, then slice eggplants lengthwise. Using spoon, scoop hot pulp into colander (you should have about 2 cups pulp); discard skins. Let pulp drain for 3 minutes.
3. Transfer drained eggplant to food processor. Add tahini, oil, lemon juice, garlic, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Pulse mixture to coarse puree, about 8 pulses. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
4. Transfer to serving bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until chilled, about 1 hour. Season with salt and pepper to taste, drizzle with extra oil to taste, and sprinkle with parsley before serving. (Dip can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours; bring to room temperature before serving.)
CRISPY THAI EGGPLANT SALAD
Serves 2 or 3
Total time: 45 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For this recipe, we took elements from Sicilian caponata—eggplant, tomatoes, herbs, and vinegary notes—and married them with intense Thai flavors. We used the same microwave dehydrating method from our Charred Sichuan-Style Eggplant and then shallow-fried the eggplant before marinating it in nam prik—a bright Thai condiment made with lime juice, fish sauce, rice vinegar, ginger, garlic, and chiles. We tossed in juicy cherry tomatoes, a healthy amount of fresh herbs, and crispy fried shallots for a dish that delivered all of the five tastes and as many different textures. Japanese eggplant was our unanimous favorite when we tested this recipe, but globe or Italian eggplant can be substituted if necessary. Traditional Genovese basil is a fine substitute for the Thai basil. Depending on the size of your microwave, you may need to microwave the eggplant in two batches. Be sure to remove the eggplant from the microwave immediately so that the steam can escape. Serve this salad with sticky rice, grilled steak, or both.
¼ cup fish sauce
¼ cup unseasoned rice vinegar
¼ cup plus 1 teaspoon lime juice (3 limes)
¼ cup packed light brown sugar
1 (2-inch piece) ginger, peeled and chopped
4 garlic cloves, chopped
1 red Thai chile, seeded and sliced thin
6 ounces cherry tomatoes, halved
2 large Japanese eggplants, halved lengthwise, then sliced crosswise 1½ inches thick
½ teaspoon salt
2 cups vegetable oil
½ cup fresh cilantro leaves
½ cup fresh mint leaves
½ cup fresh Thai basil leaves
½ cup dry-roasted peanuts, chopped
1. Process fish sauce, vinegar, ¼ cup lime juice, sugar, ginger, garlic, and chile in blender until dressing is mostly smooth, about 1 minute. Transfer to large serving bowl and stir in tomatoes; set aside.
2. Toss eggplant with salt in medium bowl. Line entire surface of large plate with double layer of coffee filters and lightly spray with vegetable oil spray. Spread eggplant in even layer on coffee filters. Microwave until eggplant is dry and shriveled to one-third of its original size, about 10 minutes, flipping halfway through to dry sides evenly (eggplant should not brown). Transfer eggplant immediately to paper towel–lined plate.
3. Heat oil in large Dutch oven over medium-high heat to 375 degrees. Add eggplant to oil and cook until flesh is deep golden brown and edges are crispy, 5 to 7 minutes. Using skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer to paper towel–lined plate and blot to remove excess oil. Transfer to bowl with dressing.
4. Toss cilantro, mint, basil, and remaining 1 teaspoon lime juice together in small bowl. Add half of herb mixture to bowl with eggplant, tossing to combine, then sprinkle remaining herb mixture and peanuts over top. Serve.
HASSELBACK EGGPLANT WITH GARLIC-YOGURT SAUCE
Serves 4 as an appetizer or 2 as a main dish
Total time: 1 hour 30 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We wanted to create a roasted eggplant dish that featured some of the smoky eggplant goodness that we love in baba ghanoush—but with more textural variety and structural integrity. To achieve a creamy interior and crispy edges, we borrowed the technique used for Hasselback potatoes: By making slices every ¼ inch crosswise down the length of the eggplant, stopping just short of slicing through, we opened up a whole new world of eggplant possibilities. This technique allowed steam to escape during cooking so the eggplant became tender without bursting and turning to mush. More importantly, we could pack the spaces between the slices with a sweet and spicy Middle Eastern paste made from jarred piquillo peppers, walnuts, bread crumbs, and pomegranate molasses. Finally, we balanced the rich spiciness and mild bitterness of the roasted eggplant with a creamy garlic-yogurt sauce. To ensure you don’t cut through the eggplant halves in step 2, you can create a guard by placing a chopstick on either side of the eggplant.
EGGPLANT
1 large eggplant (1½ pounds)
Salt
1 cup jarred piquillo peppers, patted dry and chopped
1 cup walnuts, toasted
1 cup panko bread crumbs
7 scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces
3 tablespoons pomegranate molasses
2 tablespoons ground dried Aleppo pepper
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon ground cumin
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
GARLIC-YOGURT SAUCE
1 cup plain Greek yogurt
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint
1 garlic clove, minced
½ teaspoon salt
1. For the eggplant Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Line rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil and place wire rack in sheet.
2. Trim stem and bottom ¼ inch of eggplant, then halve lengthwise. Working with 1 half at a time, place eggplant cut side down on cutting board and slice crosswise at ¼-inch intervals, leaving bottom ¼ inch intact. Sprinkle eggplant fans evenly with 1 teaspoon salt, making sure to get salt in between slices, and let sit for 15 minutes.
3. Process piquillos, walnuts, 6 tablespoons panko, scallions, pomegranate molasses, Aleppo pepper, lemon juice, cumin, and 1 teaspoon salt in food processor to coarse paste, about 30 seconds, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. With processor running, slowly add ¼ cup oil until incorporated.
4. Pat eggplant dry with paper towels. Spread 1½ cups pepper paste over eggplant, being sure to spread paste between cut sides of eggplant. Transfer eggplant, fanned side up, to prepared rack and roast until eggplant can be easily pierced with tip of paring knife and edges are crispy and golden brown, 40 minutes to 1 hour.
5. Remove eggplant from oven and heat broiler. Combine remaining 10 tablespoons panko, remaining 2 tablespoons oil, and 2 tablespoons pepper paste in bowl. (Set aside remaining pepper paste for another use.) Spread panko mixture evenly over top of eggplant and broil until topping is crisp and golden brown, 1 to 3 minutes.
6. For garlic-yogurt sauce Whisk all ingredients in bowl until combined. Transfer eggplant to serving platter and sprinkle with mint. Serve with yogurt sauce.
ROASTED EGGPLANT AND TOMATO SOUP
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 55 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Eggplants and tomatoes are found together throughout the eastern Mediterranean in countless dishes, especially soups. For a wonderfully creamy and satisfying soup, we began by dicing and roasting eggplant and found that by doing this, we could skip the task of salting, rinsing, and drying it. We left the skin on for deeper eggplant flavor and broiled it to develop a flavorful char. To build our soup, we started with the usual aromatics—onion and garlic—and added the flavorful North African spice blend ras el hanout plus some extra cumin, which gave the soup complex flavor. We added subtle sweetness with raisins, which, once pureed, also gave our soup body. Canned tomatoes were easy and offered rich tomato flavor. We reserved some eggplant to add to the pureed soup for a pleasantly chunky texture. Lemon juice provided brightness, almonds gave a nice crunch, and cilantro added freshness. You can find ras el hanout in the spice aisle of most well-stocked supermarkets.
2 pounds eggplant, cut into ½-inch pieces
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for serving
1 onion, chopped
Salt and pepper
2 garlic cloves, minced
1½ teaspoons ras el hanout
½ teaspoon ground cumin
4 cups chicken or vegetable broth, plus extra as needed
1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes, drained
¼ cup raisins
1 bay leaf
2 teaspoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons slivered almonds, toasted
2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro
1. Adjust oven rack 4 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Toss eggplant with 5 tablespoons oil, then spread in aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet. Broil eggplant until mahogany brown, 5 to 7 minutes, stirring once halfway through. Set aside 2 cups eggplant.
2. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in large saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper and cook until softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in garlic, ras el hanout, and cumin and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in broth, tomatoes, raisins, bay leaf, and remaining eggplant and bring to simmer. Cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer gently until eggplant is softened, about 20 minutes.
3. Discard bay leaf. Working in batches, process soup in blender until smooth, about 2 minutes. Return soup to clean saucepan and stir in reserved eggplant. Heat soup gently over low heat until warmed through (do not boil), and adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Stir in lemon juice and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, sprinkling individual portions with almonds and cilantro and drizzling with extra oil.
STUFFED EGGPLANT
Serves 4
Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Stuffed eggplant is terrifically appealing and can be made in myriad ways. This recipe is a study in simplicity, requiring very little prep work, and the best part is that the flavor of the eggplant itself shines through. We selected Italian eggplant as the best variety for stuffing—one half made a perfect side-dish portion, and two halves were ideal as a main dish. Next, we worked on the best way to cook the eggplant before stuffing, cutting the eggplants in half before cooking and baking them on a preheated baking sheet covered with foil until tender, in just under an hour. We chose to stuff our eggplants with a mixture of sautéed onion, garlic, and tomatoes combined with Pecorino Romano cheese and pine nuts for a nice blend of tastes and textures. If you can’t find Italian eggplants, substitute small globe eggplants.
4 Italian eggplants (10 ounces each), halved lengthwise
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
1 onion, chopped fine
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons minced fresh oregano or ½ teaspoon dried
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 pound plum tomatoes, cored, seeded, and chopped
2 ounces Pecorino Romano cheese, grated (1 cup)
¼ cup pine nuts, toasted
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
1. Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lowest positions, place parchment paper–lined rimmed baking sheet on lower rack, and heat oven to 400 degrees.
2. Brush cut sides of eggplant with 2 tablespoons oil and season with salt and pepper. Place eggplant cut side down on preheated sheet and carefully cover with aluminum foil. Roast until eggplant is golden brown and tender, 50 to 55 minutes. Transfer eggplant, cut side down, to paper towel–lined baking sheet and let drain.
3. Meanwhile, heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and ½ teaspoon salt and cook until softened and browned, about 10 minutes. Stir in garlic, oregano, cinnamon, and cayenne and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in tomatoes, ¾ cup Pecorino, pine nuts, and vinegar and cook until warmed through, about 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
4. Return eggplant, cut side up, to sheet. Using 2 forks, gently push eggplant flesh to sides to make room in center for filling. Mound ¼ cup filling into eggplant halves and sprinkle with remaining ¼ cup Pecorino. Roast on upper rack until cheese is melted, 5 to 10 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley. Serve.
EGGPLANT INVOLTINI
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 1 hour 30 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Eggplant involtini (“little bundles” in Italian) can be so complicated and messy that it makes you wonder whether these cheese-filled eggplant bundles are worth it. But trust us: They are. Still, we wanted to come up with a version of involtini that would emphasize the eggplant and minimize the fuss. Generally this recipe calls for frying, but in order to fry eggplant, you must first get rid of the excess water or the eggplant will turn mushy and oily. Salting can fix this problem, but we opted for a lighter and more hands-off option: baking. We brushed the eggplant planks with oil, seasoned them with salt and pepper, and then baked them for 30 minutes. They emerged light brown and tender, with a compact texture that was neither mushy nor sodden. To lighten up the filling, we replaced part of the ricotta with more flavorful Pecorino Romano cheese, and brightened it with a squeeze of lemon juice. We added bread crumbs to the mixture to lighten it further. We made a simple tomato sauce while the eggplant baked, then added the eggplant rolls directly to the sauce. Using a skillet meant that we could easily transfer the whole operation to the oven. We crowned the skillet with an additional dusting of Pecorino and a sprinkling of basil before serving. Select shorter, wider eggplants for this recipe. Part-skim ricotta may be used, but do not use fat-free.
2 large eggplants (1½ pounds each), peeled
6 tablespoons vegetable oil
Salt and pepper
2 garlic cloves, minced
¼ teaspoon dried oregano
Pinch red pepper flakes
1 (28-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes, drained with juice reserved, chopped
1 slice hearty white sandwich bread, torn into 1-inch pieces
8 ounces (1 cup) whole-milk ricotta cheese
1½ ounces Pecorino Romano cheese, grated (¾ cup)
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1. Slice each eggplant lengthwise into ½-inch thick planks (you should have 12 planks). Trim rounded surface from each end piece so it lies flat.
2. Adjust 1 oven rack to lower-middle position and second rack 8 inches from broiler element. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper and spray with vegetable oil spray.
3. Arrange eggplant slices in single layer on prepared sheets. Brush 1 side of eggplant slices with 2½ tablespoons oil and sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Flip eggplant slices and brush with 2½ tablespoons oil and sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Bake until tender and lightly browned, 30 to 35 minutes, switching and rotating sheets halfway through baking. Let cool for 5 minutes. Using thin spatula, flip each slice. Heat broiler.
4. While eggplant cooks, heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch broiler-safe skillet over medium-low heat until just shimmering. Add garlic, oregano, pepper flakes, and ¼ teaspoon salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in tomatoes and their juice. Increase heat to high and bring to simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until thickened, about 15 minutes. Cover and set aside.
5. Pulse bread in food processor until finely ground, 10 to 15 pulses. Combine bread crumbs, ricotta, ½ cup Pecorino, ¼ cup basil, lemon juice, and ¼ teaspoon salt in bowl. With widest ends of eggplant slices facing you, evenly distribute ricotta mixture on bottom third of each slice. Gently roll up each eggplant slice and place seam side down in tomato sauce.
6. Bring sauce to simmer over medium heat. Simmer for 5 minutes. Transfer skillet to oven and broil until eggplant is well browned and cheese is warmed through, 5 to 10 minutes. Sprinkle with remaining ¼ cup Pecorino and let stand for 5 minutes. Sprinkle with remaining 1 tablespoon basil and serve.
EGGPLANT PARMESAN
Serves 8
Total time: 1 hour 45 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Perhaps the most iconic of eggplant dishes, eggplant Parmesan takes many forms, sometimes breaded, sometimes not, but almost always layered with so much mozzarella that the flavor of the eggplant is totally lost. This authentic version is a more refined and delicate affair where the flavor of the eggplant is front and center. Here, thin, silky, unbreaded eggplant slices are layered with fresh mozzarella and tomato sauce, and topped with Parmesan. We wanted to skip the time-consuming step of salting the eggplant, so we tested numerous methods of salting, frying, and roasting and found that we could get creamy, tender eggplant slices simply by roasting them. The dry heat drove off unwanted moisture, making salting unnecessary, and with just a thin brush of olive oil the slices maintained a creamy, delicate interior and golden, roasted exterior. Be careful when opening the oven in step 3, as the eggplant will release steam. Fresh mozzarella is the key to success here; do not substitute low-moisture mozzarella. If using fresh mozzarella packed in water, press the slices between layers of paper towels to remove excess moisture before using. If you can’t find Italian eggplants, substitute 4 pounds of small globe eggplants.
TOMATO SAUCE
1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
⅛ teaspoon red pepper flakes
¼ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
EGGPLANT
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
4½ pounds Italian eggplant, sliced lengthwise into ¼-inch-thick planks
Salt and pepper
8 ounces fresh mozzarella, sliced thin
7 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
¼ cup torn fresh basil
1. For the tomato sauce Pulse tomatoes in food processor until smooth, about 10 pulses, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Cook oil and garlic in large saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Stir in pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in tomatoes and salt, bring to simmer, and cook until thickened slightly, about 10 minutes. Off heat, stir in basil.
2. For the eggplant Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat oven to 450 degrees. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with aluminum foil and brush each sheet with 1 tablespoon oil. Arrange half of eggplant in single layer on prepared sheets. Brush tops of eggplant planks with 2 tablespoons oil and sprinkle with ½ teaspoon salt.
3. Roast eggplant until tender and lightly browned, 15 to 20 minutes, switching and rotating sheets halfway through baking. Let eggplant cool slightly on sheets, then transfer, still on foil, to wire racks to cool completely. Line now-empty sheets with additional foil and brush each sheet with 1 tablespoon oil. Repeat brushing, seasoning, and roasting remaining eggplant; transfer to wire racks.
4. Reduce oven temperature to 375 degrees. Spread ½ cup tomato sauce in bottom of 13 by 9-inch baking dish. Layer one-quarter of eggplant over sauce, overlapping planks as needed. Spread ¼ cup sauce over eggplant, then top with one-third of mozzarella and 1 tablespoon Parmesan. Repeat layering of eggplant, tomato sauce, mozzarella, and Parmesan 2 more times.
5. Layer remaining eggplant in dish, spread remaining tomato sauce over top, and sprinkle with remaining ¼ cup Parmesan. Bake until bubbling around edges, about 25 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes before sprinkling with basil. Serve.
VEGETABLES REIMAGINED
EGGPLANT INVOLTINI
These delicious bundles of eggplant wrapped around a rich but light ricotta filling and nestled in a homemade tomato sauce are irresistible. They are old school made new again. And while there are a few steps to this recipe, none are difficult and the eggplant planks are baked rather than fried, giving you time to make the simple tomato sauce and ricotta filling while the eggplant planks are in the oven.
1. To make thin planks that can be rolled around the cheese filling, lay each eggplant on its side and slice it lengthwise into ½-inch-thick slices.
2. Arrange the eggplant slices on two parchment-lined baking sheets and brush with oil. Bake for about 30 minutes, switching and rotating the sheets halfway through baking.
3. Meanwhile, make the tomato sauce on the stovetop: Sauté the garlic, oregano, red pepper flakes, and salt briefly, then add the tomatoes and their juice and cook until thickened, about 15 minutes.
4. For the filling, make the homemade bread crumbs in a food processor and then combine them with the ricotta, Pecorino Romano, basil, and lemon juice.
5. With the widest ends of the eggplant slices facing you, evenly distribute the filling on the bottom third of each slice. Gently roll up each eggplant slice and place seam side down in the tomato sauce.
6. Simmer the involtini in the sauce for 5 minutes. Transfer the skillet to the oven and broil until the eggplant is browned and the cheese is warmed through, 5 to 10 minutes. Sprinkle with the remaining Pecorino and let stand for 5 minutes. Sprinkle with the remaining basil and serve.
PASTA ALLA NORMA
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 50 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Eggplant is the star of this Sicilian pasta, which also features a robust tomato sauce. The cooked eggplant and sauce are mixed with al dente pasta and finished with shreds of salty, milky ricotta salata. The dish gets its name from the epic opera Norma, which was composed by Vincenzo Bellini, a native of Catania. We salted and microwaved the eggplant to quickly draw out its moisture so that it wouldn’t absorb too much oil. Then we sautéed it in just a tablespoon of oil until it was perfectly browned, and built a simple but pungent tomato sauce in the same skillet. We found that it was best to wait until the last minute to combine the eggplant and sauce; this prevented the eggplant from soaking up too much tomato and becoming soggy. If coffee filters are not available, food-safe, undyed paper towels can be substituted when microwaving the eggplant. Be sure to remove the eggplant from the microwave immediately so that the steam can escape.
1½ pounds eggplant, cut into ½-inch pieces
Salt
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 anchovy fillets, minced
¼–½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes
6 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
1 pound ziti, rigatoni, or penne
3 ounces ricotta salata, shredded (1 cup)
1. Toss eggplant with ½ teaspoon salt in bowl. Line entire surface of large plate with double layer of coffee filters and lightly spray with vegetable oil spray. Spread eggplant in even layer on coffee filters; wipe out and reserve bowl. Microwave until eggplant is dry and shriveled to one-third of its original size, 8 to 15 minutes (eggplant should not brown). Transfer eggplant immediately to paper towel–lined plate. Let cool slightly.
2. Transfer eggplant to now-empty bowl, add 1 tablespoon oil, and toss gently to coat. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add eggplant and cook, stirring occasionally, until well browned and tender, about 10 minutes. Remove skillet from heat and transfer eggplant to plate.
3. Add 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, anchovies, and pepper flakes to now-empty skillet and cook using residual heat, stirring constantly, until fragrant and garlic becomes pale golden, about 1 minute (if skillet is too cool, set over medium heat). Add tomatoes and bring to simmer over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened slightly, 8 to 10 minutes.
4. Gently stir in eggplant and cook until warmed through and flavors meld, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in basil and remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Season with salt to taste.
5. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve ½ cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add sauce and toss to combine. Adjust consistency with reserved cooking water as needed. Serve, passing ricotta salata separately.
STIR-FRIED JAPANESE EGGPLANT
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 25 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Eggplant is something of a blank canvas. It is neutral in flavor, but it sucks up whatever flavors you cook it with. That quality makes eggplant ideal for stir-fries, which feature deeply savory sauces that cling to each vegetable. Cooking the eggplant over high heat in a shallow skillet allowed the eggplant’s excess moisture to evaporate quickly, leaving the eggplant browned and tender. For our sauce, we opted for classic stir-fry flavors: soy sauce, Chinese rice wine, and, for umami depth, hoisin sauce. Just a teaspoon of cornstarch was enough to thicken it to the glossy consistency characteristic of restaurant-style stir-fries. Scallions and fresh cilantro lent the dish some herbaceous notes that played nicely off the savory sauce. This recipe works equally well with Italian or globe eggplants. You can substitute dry sherry for the Chinese rice wine.
SAUCE
½ cup chicken or vegetable broth
¼ cup Chinese rice wine
3 tablespoons hoisin sauce
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
EGGPLANT
6 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon vegetable oil
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
1½ pounds Japanese eggplant, cut into ¾-inch pieces
2 scallions, sliced thin on bias
½ cup fresh cilantro sprigs, cut into 2-inch pieces
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted
1. For the sauce Whisk all ingredients together in bowl; set aside.
2. For the eggplant Combine garlic, 1 teaspoon oil, and ginger in small bowl. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over high heat until just smoking. Add half of eggplant and cook, stirring frequently, until browned and tender, 4 to 5 minutes; transfer to bowl. Repeat with remaining 1 tablespoon oil and eggplant.
3. Return first batch of eggplant and any accumulated juices to skillet and push to sides. Add garlic-ginger mixture to center and cook, mashing mixture into skillet, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir garlic-ginger mixture into eggplant. Whisk sauce to recombine, then add to skillet and cook until eggplant is well coated and sauce is thickened, about 30 seconds. Off heat, stir in scallions and cilantro and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Serve.
VARIATIONS
Sesame-Basil Stir-Fried Japanese Eggplant
Substitute 2 tablespoons fish sauce, 2 tablespoons packed brown sugar, and 1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar for hoisin sauce. Substitute ½ cup torn fresh basil leaves for cilantro.
Sweet Chili-Garlic Stir-Fried Japanese Eggplant
Substitute 3 tablespoons chili-garlic sauce and 2 tablespoons packed brown sugar for hoisin sauce.
CHARRED SICHUAN-STYLE EGGPLANT
Serves 2 to 3
Total time: 55 minutes
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS In this eggplant stir-fry, we take advantage of the fact that eggplant can absorb serious quantities of oil by providing the eggplant with a seriously tasty, spicy Sichuan-style chili oil to soak up. To speed cooking and get great char on the eggplant, we used the microwave to slightly dehydrate it before putting it in a smoking-hot pan. Some green bell pepper, scallions, and fresh cilantro sprigs provided a fresh and cooling reprieve to the rest of the dish. But let’s be clear here: You want to serve this dish with plenty of steamed white rice to tame the heat. Bird chiles are dried red Thai chiles. Fermented black beans are actually soybeans that have been packed in salt and fermented; they can be found in the Asian section of most well-stocked supermarkets, in Asian specialty markets, and online. You can substitute dry sherry for the Chinese rice wine and 1½ pounds globe or Italian eggplants for the Japanese eggplants in this recipe. Use a spice grinder to grind the chiles. Be sure to remove the eggplant from the microwave immediately so that the steam can escape.
⅓ cup plus 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 garlic cloves, sliced thin
15 bird chiles, ground fine (1½ tablespoons)
1 (½-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and sliced thin
1 star anise pod
¼ cup hoisin sauce
½ cup fermented black beans
6 tablespoons Chinese rice wine
1 tablespoon sugar
1½ pounds Japanese eggplant, halved lengthwise, then cut crosswise into 1½-inch pieces
½ teaspoon salt
1 green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1-inch pieces
¼ cup water
6 scallions, green parts cut into 1-inch pieces, white parts sliced thin
½ cup fresh cilantro sprigs, cut into 2-inch pieces
1. Heat ⅓ cup oil, garlic, bird chiles, ginger, and star anise in small saucepan over medium-high heat until sizzling. Reduce heat to low and gently simmer until garlic and ginger are soft but not browned, about 5 minutes. Let cool off heat for 5 minutes. Stir in hoisin, black beans, 2 tablespoons rice wine, and sugar until combined; set aside.
2. Toss eggplant with salt in bowl. Line entire surface of large plate with double layer of coffee filters and lightly spray with vegetable oil spray. Spread eggplant in even layer on coffee filters. Microwave until eggplant is dry and shriveled to one-third of its original size, about 10 minutes, flipping halfway through to dry sides evenly (eggplant should not brown). Transfer eggplant immediately to paper towel–lined plate.
3. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in 12-inch skillet over high heat until just smoking. Add eggplant in even layer and cook, stirring occasionally, until charred on most sides, 5 to 7 minutes. Push eggplant to sides of skillet and add remaining 1 tablespoon oil and bell pepper to center. Cook, without stirring, until bell pepper is lightly charred, about 3 minutes.
4. Reduce heat to medium, add water and remaining ¼ cup rice wine, scraping up any browned bits, and cook until liquid is reduced by half, about 15 seconds. Stir in scallion greens and cook until just wilted, about 15 seconds. Off heat, stir in garlic–black bean sauce. Transfer to serving platter and top with scallion whites and cilantro. Serve immediately.