Suburban Lisbon has some of Europe’s largest shopping malls, but the city centre is a pleasing mixture of quirky local stores and smaller independent outlets. The top end of Avenida da Liberdade features the likes of Armani and Louis Vuitton, while Chiado is the place to head for glass and jewellery. Antique shops cluster round São Bento, Príncipe Real and Campo de Santa Clara, while off-the-wall clothing and accessories are to be found in the independent boutiques of the Bairro Alto. Santos has become the district of design, with several stores dedicated to contemporary jewellery and cutting-edge home products.
OUR FAVOURITES: Manuel Tavares. A Arte da Terra. Embaixada.
You’re never far from a restaurant in Lisbon. For diversity, head to the Bairro Alto district where you’ll find an eclectic array of inexpensive diners alongside ultrahip venues. The Baixa caters to Lisbon’s workers and has a whole street, Rua das Portas de Santo Antão, largely given over to seafood restaurants. International flavours can be sampled by the Tejo at the Parque das Nações and the dockside developments at Santa Apolónia and Doca de Santo Amaro, while fashionistas head to the cool haunts of Cais do Sodré. Some of the best dining experiences, however, are in local neighbourhood restaurants highlighted in the Guide.
OUR FAVOURITES: Mercado da Ribeira. Mini Bar. O Barbas - Catedral.
The most historic cafés are scattered throughout the Baixa and Chiado districts, where you’ll find locals getting their caffeine fixes throughout the day. You can also get beer, wine or food at these places, though many bars only open after dark (see below). Portuguese beers – largely Sagres and Super Bock – are inexpensive and recommended, while local wines are invariably excellent. Worth sampling too are local brandies; the white variety of port, which makes an excellent aperitif; and a powerful cherry brandy called ginginha – several bars in the Baixa specialize in the stuff. Finally, don’t miss trying a caipirinha, a Brazilian cocktail made from distilled sugar cane, sugar and lime juice.
OUR FAVOURITES: Chapitô à Mesa. Park. Portas Largas.
Lisbon has a pulsating nightlife, with the highest concentration of clubs and bars in the Bairro Alto. Many locals prefer the less frenetic vibe of the Cais do Sodré district, which has a handful of cool clubs and happening bars; while the city’s biggest clubs are to be found near the river, especially LuxFrágil near Santa Apolónia and the upmarket venues of Alcântara. There are various excellent live music venues, with the Bairro Alto and Alfama famed for their fado houses.
OUR FAVOURITES: LuxFrágil. Pink Street. Hot Clube de Portugal.