Lisbon’s most accessible beaches lie along the Cascais coast just beyond the point where the Tejo flows into the Atlantic. Famed for its casino, Estoril has the best sands, though neighbouring Cascais has more buzz. The River Tejo separates Lisbon from high-rise Caparica, to the south, on a superb stretch of wave-pounded beach, popular with surfers.
With its grandiose villas, luxury hotels and health spa, Estoril (pronounced é-stril) has pretensions towards being a Portuguese Riviera. The centre is focused on the leafy Parque do Estoril and its huge casino (daily 3pm–3am; free; semiformal attire required; 
214 667 700, 
casino-estoril.pt). During World War II, this was where exiled royalty hung out and many spies made their names. Ian Fleming was based here to keep an eye on double agents, and used his experience at the casino as inspiration for the first James Bond novel, Casino Royale.
The resort’s fine sandy beach, Praia de Tamariz, is backed by some ornate villas and a seafront promenade that stretches northwest to Cascais, a pleasant twenty-minute stroll. In summer, firework displays take place above the beach every Saturday at midnight.
Estoril is famed for its top golf courses which lie a short distance inland (info at portugalgolf.pt); it also hosts the Estoril Open tennis tournament in May (millenniumestorilopen.com).
Tamariz beach in Estoril
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Cascais (pronounced cash-kaysh) is a highly attractive former fishing village, liveliest round Largo Luís de Camões, at one end of Rua Frederico Arouca, the main mosaic-paved pedestrian thoroughfare.
Praia da Conceição is ideal to lounge on or try out watersports. The rock-fringed smaller beaches of Praia da Rainha and Praia da Ribeira are off the central stretch, while regular buses run 6km northwest to Praia do Guincho, a fabulous sweep of surf-beaten sands.
Cascais is at its most charming in the grid of streets north of the Igreja da Assunção – its azulejos predate the earthquake of 1755. Nearby, on Rua Júlio Pereira de Melo, the engaging Museu do Mar (214 815 906; Tues–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–1pm & 2–5pm; free) relates the town’s relationship with the sea, with model boats, treasure from local wrecks and stuffed fish.
Transport to Estoril and Cascais
Trains from Lisbon’s Cais do Sodré (every 15–20min; 35min to Estoril, 40min to Cascais; €2.75 single) wend along the shore. There are also regular buses to and from Sintra, or it’s a fine drive down the corniche.
Avda da República 300 214 826 970, casadashistoriaspaularego.com. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. €5.
The distinctive ochre towers of the modernist Casa das Histórias mark a fantastic museum which, unusually, is dedicated to a living artist, Paula Rego. Designed by Eduardo Souto de Moura, the airy museum features over 120 of her disturbing but beautiful collages, pastels and engravings, as well as those by her late English husband Victor Willing. Many of her works explore themes of power: women and animals are portrayed as both powerful and sexually vulnerable; men often appear as fish or dressed in women’s clothes.
The leafy Parque Municipal da Gandarinha, complete with picnic tables and playground, makes a welcome escape from the beach crowds. In one corner stands the mansion of the nineteenth-century Count of Guimarães, preserved complete with its fittings as the Museu Biblioteca Conde Castro Guimarães (214 825 401, cm-cascais.pt; Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; closes 1–2pm on Sat and Sun; free). Its most valuable exhibits are rare illuminated sixteenth-century manuscripts.
Avda Dom Carlos I 213 614 660, cascais.pt. Wed–Sun 11am–1pm & 2–6pm. €4
To the east, the walls of Cascais’ largely seventeenth-century Citadela (fortress) guard the entrance to the Marina de Cascais, lined by restaurants, bars and boutiques.
Originally a sea fort and then a summer retreat for Portuguese royalty, the Citadela has been used by the Portuguese president to entertain his guests ever since the declaration of the Republic in 1910. Today, you can wander around the lower-floor exhibition space, though it’s worth the entrance fee to visit the top two floors (ask for a non-guided visit unless you understand Portuguese). There’s also a lovely ocean-facing tearoom.
Via Rapida express 135 (roughly hourly; 30min) or slower local buses (every 15–30min; 50min), from Cacilhas or bus #161 from Lisbon’s Areeiro (every 30–60min; 40–60min).
According to legend, Caparica was named after the discovery of a cloak (capa) full of golden coins. Today it is a slightly tacky, high-rise seaside resort, but don’t let that put you off: it’s family-friendly, has plenty of good seafood as well as several kilometres of soft, sandy beach.
From the beach, a narrow-gauge mini-railway (June–Sept daily every 30min from 9am–7.30pm, last return 7pm; €8 return, or €4.50 return for first nine stops) runs south along the beach for 8km to the resort of Fonte da Telha. Jump off at any stop en route; earlier stops tend to be family-oriented, while nudity is common in later ones.
Surfers on the Costa da Caparica coastline
Natascha Sturny/Rough Guides
Rua do Poço Novo 15–17, Cascais 214 820 686. Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm & 6–9pm.
A small, intimate diner in the old town, specializing in tender steaks (around €13). Also does a few fresh fish dishes, omelettes and salads and great desserts – save room for the chocolate cake.
Largo da Misericordia 53 911 702 428. Daily 10am–10pm.
This Dutch-run veggie café-restaurant and gallery space has an appealing, alternative vibe. The street-level restaurant serves amazing vegetarian meze of various sizes from €8–15. Expect hummus, chickpea salad and whatever fresh veg is in season. There’s a separate entrance for the gallery space and laidback café, complete with a roof terrace where you can relax for a drink on old packing cases.
Arcadas do Parque 21–22, Estoril 214 680 366. Tues–Sun 8am–2am.
Facing Estoril’s park, this great little café-restaurant and bar has appealing outdoor tables. It’s a good spot for a drink or snack, and also serves a range of full meals (salads, tortilla, fresh fish) from around €10.
Cafe Galeria House of Wonders
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Avda Com. Grande Guerra 68 214 861 717, Cascais. Daily 10am–11.30pm.
Permanently buzzing with people and sizzling with the speciality, bargain grilled chicken from around €8, which is devoured at indoor and outdoor tables. Get there early to secure a table as it’s very popular.
Apoio de Praia 13, Caparica 212 900 163. Daily noon–midnight; Oct–April closes Wed.
Caparica’s best-known beach restaurant with affordable fish, caldeirada (fish stew) and arroz de marisco (seafood rice) to die for. They also run the more upmarket space next door, O Barbas Tertúlia, though the menu is much the same.
Rua das Flores 10B, Cascais 214 832 054, restaurantepescador.com. Wed 6–11pm, Thurs–Tues noon–11pm.
The best of a row of lively restaurants near the centre, offering upmarket seafood – expect to pay over €40 for superb mains such as lobster baked in salt or tuna cooked in olive oil and garlic.
Rua Regimento 19 de Infantaria Loja 11, Cascais 918 580 343. Mon–Sat 10am–midnight.
This lively local with outdoor seating specializes in bitoques (thin steaks), as well as burgers, salads and fresh fish. Most dishes under €9.
Praia do Tamariz, Estoril 214 681 010, restaurantepraiadotamariz.com. Daily April–Oct 9am–10pm, Nov–March noon–6pm
High-profile restaurant right on the seafront promenade – which makes good-value fish, meat, pizza and pasta dishes (from around €12). Also a great spot for a sangria or caipirinha.
Taberna da Praça
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Cidadela de Cascais, Avda Dom Carlos I 214 814 300. Mon–Fri 12.30–3pm & 7.30–10.30pm, Sat & Sun noon–10.30pm.
Tucked into a couple of cosy arched rooms within Cascais’s impressive fortress, Taberna da Praça serves a range of tasty petiscos, the Portuguese version of tapas. You can sample regional specialities like scrambled eggs with smoked chicken chorizo, or grilled octopus with baked potatoes (€4–10). There are also more substantial mains: great tuna steaks or duck rice (from €14).
Avda Valbom 28f 214 833 709. Mon–Thurs & Sun 11am–8pm, Fri & Sat 11am–midnight.
Opened by an Italian immigrant just after World War II, Santini’s delicious ice creams are legendary in these parts.
Largo Luís de Camões 7, Cascais 214 830 926. Daily 9.30–2am.
A laidback English-style pub that fills up early with a good-time crowd; it serves so-so meals too, with weekend DJs and live football matches screened on TV. However, most people tend to come here for relaxed drinks at the scattering of tables outside in the attractive square.
Passeio Marítimo, Praia das Moitas Monte Estoril 214 676 946. Wed–Mon 10am–11pm (closes earlier in winter in bad weather).
Set right on the seafront just north of Estoril, this is an easygoing spot come day or night, serving a range of good food, tempting cocktails, fresh juices and snacks until the small hours.