West of the Bairro Alto sits the leafy district of Estrela, best known for its gardens and enormous basilica. To the south lies opulent Lapa, Lisbon’s diplomatic quarter, sheltering some of its top hotels. Sumptuous mansions and grand embassy buildings peer out majestically towards the Tejo. The superb Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga below here is Portugal’s national gallery, while down on the riverfront, Santos is promoted as “the district of design” with some of the city’s coolest shops
Largo da Estrela. Church Daily 7.30am–1pm & 3–8pm. Free. Roof visits Mon–Sat 10am–6pm. €4. Tram #28 or #25.
The impressive Basílica da Estrela is a vast monument to late eighteenth-century Neoclassicism. Constructed by order of Queen Maria I (whose tomb lies within), and completed in 1790, its landmark white dome can be seen from much of the city. You can visit the flat roof (via 140 steep stone steps) for fine views over the western suburbs, and also walk round the inside of the dome to peer down at the church interior 25m below. Opposite is the Jardim da Estrela (daily; free), one of the city’s most enjoyable gardens with a pond-side café and a well-equipped children’s playground.
Jardim da Estrela
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Rua São Jorge 6 
213 906 248. Mon–Fri 10.30am–1pm. Free. Tram #28 or #25.
“The English Cemetery” is actually a cemetery for all Protestants, founded in 1717. Here, among the cypresses and tombs of various expatriates, lie the remains of Henry Fielding. He came to Lisbon hoping the climate would improve his failing health, but his inability to recuperate may have influenced his verdict on Lisbon as “the nastiest city in the world”.
From Estrela tram #25 skirts past the well-heeled district of Lapa on its way down to the waterfront. Lapa is the most desired address in the city and though it contains no sights as such, it is worth wandering around to admire the stunning mansions. A good route is to follow the tram tracks from Estrela and turn right into Rua do Sacramento à Lapa, past fantastic embassy buildings. Turn left into Rua do Pau da Bandeira past the Olissippo Lapa Palace hotel (if you have the funds, have a drink at the bar). From here, go left into Rua do Prior and right into Rua do Conde and it’s a ten-minute walk downhill to the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga (see below).
Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga
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Rua das Janelas Verdes 95. Bus #760 from Praça da Figueira, #727 from Belém or a short walk from tram #25 213 912 800, 
museudearteantiga.pt. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. €6.
The Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga features the largest collection of Portuguese fifteenth- and sixteenth-century paintings in the country, European art from the fourteenth century to the present day and a rich display of applied art. All of this is well exhibited in a tastefully converted seventeenth-century palace once owned by the Marquês de Pombal. The museum uses ten “reference points” to guide you round the collection. The principal highlight is Nuno Gonçalves’s altarpiece dedicated to St Vincent (1467–70), a brilliantly marshalled composition depicting Lisbon’s patron saint receiving homage from all ranks of its citizens, their faces appearing remarkably modern. The other main highlight is Hieronymus Bosch’s stunningly gruesome Temptation of St Anthony in room 57 (don’t miss the image on the back of the painting, showing the arrest of Christ). Elsewhere, seek out the altar panel depicting the Resurrection by Raphael; Francisco de Zurbarán’s The Twelve Apostles; a small statue of a nymph by Auguste Rodin; and works by Dürer, Holbein, Cranach (particularly Salome), Fragonard and Josefa de Óbidos, considered one of Portugal’s greatest female painters.
The Oriental art collection shows how the Portuguese were influenced by overseas designs encountered during the sixteenth century. There is inlaid furniture from Goa, Turkish and Syrian azulejos, Qing Dynasty porcelain and a fantastic series of late sixteenth-century Japanese namban screens (room 14), depicting the Portuguese landing at Nagasaki. The Japanese regarded the Portuguese traders as southern barbarians (namban) with large noses – hence their Pinocchio-like features. The museum extends over the remains of the sixteenth-century St Albert monastery, most of which was razed during the 1755 earthquake, although its beautiful chapel can still be seen today, downstairs by the main entrance. Don’t miss the garden café, either.
Santos district
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Rua da Esperança 146. Tram #25 then a short walk 213 942 810, museudamarioneta.pt. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. €5, children €3, free Sun 10am–2pm.
Contemporary and historical puppets from around the world are displayed in this former eighteenth-century convent and demonstrated in a well-laid-out museum. Highlights include shadow puppets from Turkey and Indonesia, string marionettes, Punch and Judy-style puppets and almost life-sized, faintly disturbing modern figures by Portuguese puppeteer Helena Vaz, which are anything but cute. There are also video displays and projections, masks from Africa and Asia, while the final room exhibits Wallace and Gromit-style plasticine figures with demonstrations on how they are manipulated for films.
Santos was traditionally a run-down riverside area of factories and warehouses where people only ventured after dark because of its nightclubs. Over the years, artists and designers moved into the inexpensive and expansive warehouse spaces, and now Santos has a reputation as the city’s designer heartland. Its riverside streets are not particularly alluring, but you can see many of the country’s top designers showcasing their products in various shops and galleries. Fashionable bars and restaurants have followed in their wake, though the area around the Museu da Marioneta retains an earthy, villagey feel to its cobbled backstreets.
Rua da Esperança 59–61 213 951 407. Tues & Thurs 11am–7pm, Wed & Fri 2–7pm.
Jewellery workshop and gallery managed by well-known Portuguese designer Paula Crespo, whose big, heavy jewellery is eye-catching. International designers also feature, many using unusual materials such as rubber and wood, though to buy anything you’ll need a deep purse.
Largo Vitorino Damásio 2 213 933 170, paris-sete.com. Mon–Fri 10am–7pm, Sat 10.30am–5pm.
Bright, white space selling designer furniture and curios, with heavyweight names such as Charles and Ray Eames and Philippe Starck behind some of them.
Rua do Guarda-Mor 8 213 928 663. Tues–Fri 12.30–3pm & 7.30pm–midnight, Sat 7.30pm–midnight.
One of Santos’ more local options serving great, mid-priced dishes such as pataniscas de bacalhau (dried cod cakes), açorda de gambas (prawns in bread sauce) and gambas fritas com limão (prawns fried in lemon). Also has occasional live fado (Wed). Mains from €14.
Rua Coelho da Rocha 104 211 323 701. Mon–Thurs 10am–11pm, Fri & Sat 10am–1am.
This wonderful 1930s building has been given a revamp and now not only sells fish, fruit and veg, but also shelters around twenty tasquinhas (small food stalls) serving pastries, sushi, petiscos, burgers and seafood. There are also bars (gin cocktails, flavoured teas and the like) and occasional live entertainment in the evenings.
Rua da Esperança 178 213 976 689. Tues–Sun noon–3pm & 6.30–11pm.
Arrive early to guarantee a table at this very popular, good-value local, where people come for vast portions of beautifully grilled steaks, chicken, pork or fish, best washed down with Alentejan wines. Mains start at around €12, but they are usually large enough to share between two people.
Rua das Janelas Verdes 96 213 975 401. Mon–Sat 12.30–3.30pm & 8–11pm, Sun 12.30–3.30pm.
This ornately tiled restaurant specializes in picanha (strips of beef in garlic sauce) accompanied by black-eyed beans, salad and potatoes. Great if this appeals to you, since for a fixed-price of around €20 you can eat all you want; otherwise forget it, as it’s all that’s on offer.
Largo de Santos 1 912 151 850. Mon–Sat noon–4am.
Lively, modern café-restaurant with brick vaulted ceilings and outdoor seating facing the square, attracting a young crowd for inexpensive grills, snacks and salads.
Rua das Madres 34 213 965 533. Tues–Sun 12.30–3.30pm & 8–11pm.
A delightfully simple local that’s hosted the likes of fomer US President Jimmy Carter and Portuguese PM José Sócrates – and it’s easy to see why they liked it: a lovely, traditional restaurant with grape-motif azulejos on the walls and a menu featuring dishes such as bacalhau, trout and steaks. Desserts include a splendid almond ice cream with hot chocolate sauce. Mains from €10.
Rua das Janelas Verdes 95 213 912 860, Tues–Sun 10am–5.30pm.
There’s no need to visit the museum to use its fantastic café – go in through the museum exit opposite Largo Dr J de Figueiredo and head to the basement. Lunches and drinks can be enjoyed in a superb garden studded with statues and overlooking Lisbon’s docks.
Jardim 9 de Abril 213 963 668. Mon–Sat 12.30pm–2am & Sun 12.30pm–midnight.
A modern, glass-sided bar-restaurant adjacent to the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga, Le Chat has a terrific terrace which gazes over the docks and Ponte 25 de Abril. Great at any time of the day, it’s a particularly fine spot for a cocktail or sundowner.
Calçada Ribeiro dos Santos 25 917 745 516. Daily 10am–4am.
A small local bar given a makeover, with table football to play and a little dining area to the back. Most hole up in the front room for inexpensive drinks and good music.
Cais da Ribeira Nova Armazém B 210 106 837. Wed–Sat 10.30pm–4am, Sun 6pm–2am.
A great African club, with live music, poetry nights, kizomba evenings and occasional dance lessons on offer, though you’d be hard pushed to outshine the regulars.
Le Chat
Le Chat
Rua do Meio à Lapa 18 213 972 681, srvinho.com. Mon–Sat 8pm–2am.
In the fashionable Madragoa district, this famous fado club features some of the best singers in Portugal (from 9pm), hence the high prices (around €50 a head). Reservations are advised.