Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents
Exploring | Outdoor Activities and Guided Tours | Where to Eat | Where to Stay | Nightlife | Shopping
22 miles north of Wrangell.
Getting to Petersburg is an experience, whether you take the “high road” by air or the “low road” by sea. Alaska Airlines claims one of the shortest jet flights in the world, from takeoff at Wrangell to landing at Petersburg. The schedule calls for 20 minutes of flying, but it’s usually more like 15. At sea level only ferries and smaller cruisers can squeak through Wrangell Narrows with the aid of more than 50 buoys and range markers along the 22-mile waterway, which takes almost four hours to negotiate. But the inaccessibility of Petersburg is also part of its charm: you’ll never be overwhelmed here by hordes of cruise passengers. The Scandinavian heritage is gradually being submerged by the larger American culture, but you can occasionally hear Norwegian spoken, especially during the Little Norway Festival, held annually on the weekend closest to May 17th. If you’re in town during the festival, take part in one of the fish feeds that highlight the celebration.
One of the most pleasant things to do in Petersburg is to roam among the fishing vessels tied up dockside in the harbor. This is one of Alaska’s busiest, most prosperous fishing communities, with an enormous variety of seacraft. You’ll see small trollers, big halibut vessels, and sleek pleasure craft. By watching shrimp, salmon, or halibut catches being brought ashore (though be prepared for the pungent aroma), you can get a real appreciation for this industry.
On clear days Petersburg’s scenery is second to none. Across Frederick Sound the sawlike peaks of the Stikine Ice Cap scrape clouds from the sky, looking every bit as malevolent as their monikers suggest. (Some of the most wickedly named summits include Devil’s Thumb, Kate’s Needle, and Witches’ Tits.)
Although Petersburg is nice to explore, commercial fishing is more important than tourism—in other words, you’ll find more hardware stores than jewel merchants. But that’s also a big part of its charm. The main attractions are the town’s Norwegian heritage, its vibrant community, and its magnificent mountain-backed setting. The country around Petersburg provides an array of outdoor fun, from whale watching and glacier gazing to hiking and fishing.
Getting Here and Around
Once you arrive in Petersburg by ferry on the Alaska Marine Highway or by airplane, a host of activities await. For more help finding tours of the environs, contact travel agency Viking Travel or the Petersburg Visitor Information Center.
Cruise Travel
Cruise companies with stops at Petersburg include: Un-Cruise and Lindblad Expeditions. These lines operate smaller, adventure-oriented ships that offer complimentary walking and hiking tours ashore led by an onboard guide or naturalist. The ships dock in the South Harbor, which is about a ½-mile walk from downtown.
Tours
If you want to learn about local history, the commercial fishing industry, and the Tongass National Forest, you can take a guided tour.
Visitor Information
Petersburg Visitor Information Center (907/772–4636, 866/484–4700 | www.petersburg.org) is a good source for local information, including maps and details on tours, charters, and nearby outdoor recreation opportunities.
Essentials
Ferry Contact
Alaska Marine Highway System. | 907/465–3941, 800/642–0066 | www.dot.state.ak.us/amhs.
Medical Assistance
Petersburg Medical Center. | 103 Fram St. | 907/772–4291 | www.pmc-health.com.
Pharmacy
Rexall Drugs. | 215 N. Nordic Dr. | 907/772–3265.
Tour Information
Viking Travel. | 907/772–3818, 800/327–2571 | www.alaskaferry.com.
Visitor Information
Petersburg Visitor Information Center. | 1st and Fram sts. | 907/772–4636 | www.petersburg.org | May–Sept., Mon.–Sat. 9–5, Sun. noon–4; Oct.–Apr., weekdays 10–2.
Exploring
Top Attractions
Clausen Memorial Museum.
The exhibits here explore commercial fishing and the cannery industry, the era of fish traps, the social life of Petersburg, and Tlingit culture. Don’t miss the 126½-pound king salmon—the largest ever caught commercially—as well as the Tlingit dugout canoe; the Cape Decision lighthouse station lens; and Earth, Sea and Sky, a 3-D wall mural outside. | 203 Fram St. | 907/772–3598 | www.clausenmuseum.net | $3 | May–early Sept., Mon.–Sat. 10–5; early Sept.–late Dec., Tues.–Sat. 10–2.
Fodor’s Choice | LeConte Glacier.
Petersburg’s biggest draw lies at the foot of the Stikine Ice Cap. Accessible only by air or water, LeConte Glacier is the continent’s southernmost tidewater glacier and one of its most active, often calving off so many icebergs that the tidewater bay at its face is carpeted shore to shore with them. | 25 miles northeast of Petersburg | 907/772–4636 for Petersburg visitor info | www.petersburgak.org.
Petersburg Visitor Information Center.
Though small, the center is a good place to pick up maps and learn about tours, charters, and nearby outdoor recreation opportunities. | 1st and Fram sts. | 907/772–4636, 866/484–4700 | www.petersburg.org | May–Sept., Mon.–Sat. 9–5, Sun. noon–4; Oct.–Apr., weekdays 10–2.
Sons of Norway Hall.
Built in 1912, this large, white, barnlike structure just south of the Hammer Slough is the headquarters of an organization devoted to keeping alive the traditions and culture of Norway. Petersburg’s Norwegian roots date back to 1897, when Peter Buschmann arrived and founded the Icy Strait Packing Company cannery. As his business and family flourished, others arrived to join them, many of Norwegian descent. By 1920, they and the area’s Tlingit residents had established a year-round community of 600 residents. The hall, its red shutters decorated with colorful Norwegian rosemaling designs, is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Outside sits a replica of a Viking ship that is a featured attraction in the annual Little Norway Festival each May. On the building’s south side is the Bojer Wikan Fisherman’s Memorial, a bronze tribute to deceased local fishermen. | 23 S. Sing Lee Alley | 907/772–4575 | www.petersburgsons.org.
Worth Noting
Blind Slough Recreation Area.
This recreation area includes a number of sites scattered along the Mitkof Highway from 15 to 20 miles south of Petersburg. Blind River Rapids Trail is a wheelchair-accessible 1-mile boardwalk that leads to a three-sided shelter overlooking the river—one of Southeast’s most popular fishing spots—before looping back through the muskeg. Not far away is a bird-viewing area where several dozen trumpeter swans spend the winter. In summer you’re likely to see many ducks and other waterfowl. At Mile 18 the state-run Crystal Lake Hatchery releases thousands of king and coho salmon each year. The kings return in June and July, the coho in August and September. Nearby is a popular picnic area. Four miles south of the hatchery is a Forest Service campground. | 907/772–3871 for USFS Petersburg Ranger District | www.fs.usda.gov/detail/r10/specialplaces/?cid=fsbdev2_038848.
Walking Around Petersburg
For an enjoyable loop hike, follow Dolphin Street uphill from the center of Petersburg. Where Dolphin intersects with 5th Street, a boardwalk path leads 900 feet through forested wetlands to the baseball fields, where a second boardwalk takes you to 12th Street and Haugen Drive. Turn left on Haugen and follow it past the airport to Sandy Beach Park, where picnickers sit under log shelters and low tide reveals remnants of ancient fish traps and a number of petroglyphs. From here you can return to town via Sandy Beach Road or hike the beach when the tide is out. Along the way is the charming Outlook Park, a covered observatory with binoculars to scan for marine life. A pullout at Hungry Point provides views to the Coast Range and Frederick Sound. Across the road the half-mile Hungry Point Trail takes you back to the baseball fields—a great spot for panoramic views of the mountains—where you can return downtown on the nature boardwalk. Plan on an hour and a half for this walk.
Eagle’s Roost Park.
Just north of the Petersburg Fisheries cannery, this small roadside park is a great place to spot eagles, especially at low tide. On a clear day you will also discover dramatic views of the sharp-edged Coast Range, including the 9,077-foot summit of Devil’s Thumb. | 617 N. Nordic Dr.
Falls Creek Fish Ladder.
Coho and pink salmon migrate upstream in late summer and early fall at this fish ladder south of town. Fish head up the ladder to get around a small falls. | Mile 10.8, Mitkof Hwy.
Hammer Slough.
Houses on high stilts and the historic Sons of Norway Hall border this creek that floods with each high tide, creating a photogenic reflecting pool. | Hammer Slough Trail.
Outdoor Activities and Guided Tours
Boating
Jensen’s Boat Rentals.
This outfit’s fleet of skiffs range from 16 to 22 feet and include safety items, coolers, and fish dip-nets and crab pots. Other fishing equipment is available for rental. | 907/772–4635 | www.jensensboatrentals.com.
Hiking
Raven’s Roost Cabin Hike.
A 4.2-mile trail begins at the southern edge of the Petersburg airport’s runway and winds 1,800 feet in elevation to Raven’s Roost Cabin. Along the way you take in a panorama that reaches from the ice-bound Coast Range to the protected waters and forested islands of the Inside Passage far below. Get details on these and other hikes from the Petersburg Visitor Information Center or the Petersburg Ranger District. TIP The two-story Forest Service cabin is available for rent ($35 per night). | Petersburg Ranger District,12 N. Nordic Dr. | 907/772–3871 | www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/tongass/recarea/?recid=79036.
Tours
Pacific Wings.
You can see the Stikine River and LeConte Glacier from above on a flightseeing tour with the locally popular air-taxi operator Pacific Wings. | 1500 Haugen Dr. | 907/772–9258 | www.pacwing.com.
Fodor’s Choice | Tongass Kayak Adventures.
The day and overnight kayaking trips conducted by Tongass Kayak Adventures include ones to the icebergs in LeConte Glacier Bay and to see the whales of Frederick Sound. | 907/772–4600 | www.tongasskayak.com | From $250.
Whale Song Cruises.
A great way to experience the Petersburg area from the water, these cruises take place aboard a custom-built, 29-foot aluminum boat suitable for 14 passengers. Choose from a half-day sightseeing trip to LeConte Bay to view the southernmost tidewater glacier in North America or a full-day whale-watching trip into Frederick Sound. Hot beverages and snacks are included. The captain, longtime local Ron Loesch, also runs the Petersburg Pilot, the town’s weekly newspaper. | 207 N. Nordic Dr. | 907/772–9393 | www.whalesongcruises.com | From $125 for glacier trip from $175 for whale watching.
Where to Eat
Coastal Cold Storage.
SEAFOOD | This busy little seafood deli in the heart of Petersburg serves daily lunch specials, including fish chowders and halibut beer bits (a local favorite), along with grilled-chicken wraps, steak sandwiches, breakfast omelets, and waffles. It’s a great place for a quick bite en route to your next adventure; there isn’t much seating in the shop’s cramped interior. On sunny days, place your order and then grab a seat at one of the tables on the sidewalk out front. Live or cooked crab is available for takeout, and the shop can process your sport-caught fish. | Average main: $10 | 306 N. Nordic Dr. | 907/772–4177, 877/257–4746.
Helse Restaurant.
AMERICAN | Locals flock to this modest mom-and-pop place for lunch. It’s the closest thing to home cooking Petersburg has to offer, and most days it’s open from 8:30 to 4, even in winter. Two dozen sandwiches grace the menu, as do various soups, and the bread is homemade. The gyros and daily specials are both good bets. Helse doubles as an ice cream and espresso stand. | Average main: $7 | 13 Sing Lee Alley | 907/772–3444 | Closed Sun.
Inga’s Galley.
PACIFIC NORTHWEST | Locally sourced ingredients—including Southeast seafood and organic produce—are at the heart of casual Inga’s menu. The dishes at this local favorite, a glorified food cart with picnic tables, change “with season, availability, and mood,” but might include black cod kebabs and smoked salmon chowder that go superbly well with the Baranof Island Brewery beers poured here (there’s also wine). TIP Inga’s closes at 8 pm on weekdays and 7 pm on Saturday. | Average main: $12 | 104 N. Nordic Dr. | 907/772–2090 | www.ingasgalley.com | Closed Sun., and mid-Sept.–mid-Apr.
Papa Bear’s Pizza.
PIZZA | This oft-crowded restaurant specializes in pizza, Italian sandwiches, tortilla wraps, and ice cream. Traditional pizzas are on the menu but also ones with fanciful add-ons such as barbecue chicken and chipotle pesto sauce. TIP To avoid waiting in line for takeout, order online. | Average main: $10 | 219 S. Nordic Dr. | 907/772–3727 | www.papabearspizza.com | Closed Sun.
Where to Stay
The Lucky Loon.
RENTAL | Sitting on a beautiful piece of waterfront property, the two-bedroom house, fitted with two double beds and two queen-size beds, feels like instant home from the moment you walk in. This is not a B&B; it’s a rental property that’s fully furnished, has a covered deck, and is decked out with all the cooking equipment you could ever need to make the most of the day’s catch. There’s even a BBQ and crab cooker on the property. High-speed Internet, satellite TV, and laundry help the modern traveler hop right into vacation mode (though, yes, you will eventually have to leave). There’s no roughing it here. Just as charming as this waterfront property are its owners; the couple are great fun to chat up, and offer enthusiastic recommendations for things to do and best places to get smoked salmon in the area. Though, really, the Lucky Loon is less about an activity itinerary than it is about getting away from it all and imagining a life very different from your own Pros: beautiful waterfront location; comfortable and nicely equipped house Cons: five-night minimum May through September; three miles from downtown. | Rooms from: $160 | 181 Frederick Dr. | 907/772–2345 | www.theluckyloon.com | 2 bedrooms | No meals.
Scandia House.
HOTEL | On Petersburg’s main drag, Scandia House provides a good base for exploring town. Some rooms have kitchenettes, king-size beds, or in-room hot tubs and harbor views. Homemade muffins and coffee are available in the small but inviting lobby each morning. Guests who wish to tour the surrounding area can rent a car at the front desk for $60 per day. Pros: some pets allowed; airport and ferry shuttle. Cons: fourth-floor rooms (including the three suites) are not accessible by elevator. | Rooms from: $120 | 110 Nordic Dr. | 907/772–4281, 800/722–5006 | www.scandiahousehotel.com | 33 rooms, 3 suites | Breakfast.
Sea Level B&B.
B&B/INN | The views from the large picture windows at this small bed-and-breakfast, a home on stilts above the Wrangell Narrows, are worth the 10 or 15 minutes it takes to walk to town. The smaller of the two rooms, with one queen bed, is a better deal than most hotel rooms, and the larger one has fantastic views of the narrows. When it’s not raining, the small deck outside is the perfect place to take in some afternoon sun, binoculars close at hand. Humpback and orca whales sometimes frolic in front of the inn. Pros: views of the narrows; excellent chance of spotting a whale from the house. Cons: 10- to 15-minute walk to town. | Rooms from: $110 | 913 N. Nordic Dr. | 907/772–3240 | www.sealevelbnb.com | 2 rooms | No credit cards | Breakfast.
Tides Inn.
HOTEL | Petersburg’s largest hotel is a block uphill from the town’s main thoroughfare. The rooms, some with kitchenettes, have comfortable but timeworn furnishings. Rooms in the newer wing—nicer than the motel-style ones in the old wing—have newer furniture and views of the boat harbor. Coffee is always available in the lobby, and in the morning complimentary juices, muffins, and pastries are served. You can rent a car on-site, but parking is limited. Pros: central location; harbor views from the newer rooms. Cons: rooms in the old wing are dark and dated. | Rooms from: $110 | 307 N. 1st St. | 907/772–4288, 800/665–8433 | www.tidesinnalaska.com | 45 rooms | Breakfast.
Nightlife
Harbor Bar.
With ships’ wheels, nautical pictures, and a mounted red snapper, the Harbor Bar’s décor stays true to Petersburg’s seafaring spirit. The bar’s liquor store has a separate entrance. | 310 N. Nordic Dr. | 907/772–4526.
Kito’s Kave.
A popular hangout among rowdy local fishermen, Kito’s serves up brews and blasting music. La Fonda, a Mexican restaurant, leases space inside the bar. | 11 Sing Lee Alley | 907/772–3207.
Shopping
Art Galleries
Miele Gallery.
This gallery sells jewelry, gifts, and art, including paintings, prints, and handmade pottery, by local and Alaskan artists. | 211 N. Nordic Dr. | 907/772–2161.
Wild Celery.
A self-described “eclectic gallery,” Wild Celery carries Alaskan-made arts and crafts, including vibrant enamel jewelry by local artist Janine Gibbons, decorative Norwegian “rosemaling” paintings by Polly Koeneman, and hand-turned wood bowls by Dave Carlson. | 400 N. Nordic Dr. | 907/772–2471.
Books
Sing Lee Alley Books.
Off an alley in a big, beautiful white house that served as a boardinghouse to fishermen and schoolteachers, this shop stocks books on Alaska, best sellers, cards, and gifts. | 11 Sing Lee Alley | 907/772–4440.
Seafood
Northern Lights Smokeries.
Owner Thomas Cumps has made a name for himself with his hot-smoked white king, red king, and sockeye salmon, along with a local favorite: cold-smoked black cod. It’s best to call ahead to make sure Cumps will be around before you stop by. You can take your fish with you or have it shipped. | 501 Noseeum St. | 907/772–4608 | wildsalmon@nlsmokeries.com | www.nlsmokeries.com.
Tonka Seafoods.
Sample smoked or canned halibut and salmon at Tonka Seafoods, located in the old Mitkof Cannery building. Be sure to taste the white king salmon—an especially flavorful type of Chinook that the locals swear by. Tonka will also ship. | 1200 S. Nordic Dr. | 907/772–3662, 888/560–3662 | www.tonkaseafoods.com | Weekdays 8–6, weekends 9–5.