Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents
Exploring | Outdoor Activities and Guided Tours | Where to Eat | Where to Stay | Nightlife and the Arts | Shopping
110 miles west of Petersburg.
It’s hard not to like Sitka, with its eclectic blend of Alaska Native, Russian, and American history and its dramatic and beautiful open-ocean setting. This is one of the best Inside Passage towns to explore on foot, with St. Michael’s Cathedral, Sheldon Jackson Museum, Castle Hill, Sitka National Historical Park, and the Alaska Raptor Center topping the must-see list.
Sitka was home to the Kiksádi clan of the Tlingit people for centuries prior to the 18th-century arrival of the Russians under the direction of territorial governor Alexander Baranof, who believed the region was ideal for the fur trade. The governor also coveted the Sitka site for its beauty, mild climate, and economic potential; in the island’s massive timber forests he saw raw materials for shipbuilding. Its location offered trading routes as far west as Asia and as far south as California and Hawaii. In 1799 Baranof built St. Michael Archangel—a wooden fort and trading post 6 miles north of the present town.
Strong disagreements arose shortly after the settlement. The Tlingits attacked the settlers and burned their buildings in 1802. Baranof, however, was away in Kodiak at the time. He returned in 1804 with a formidable force—including shipboard cannons—and attacked the Tlingits at their fort near Indian River, site of the present-day 105-acre Sitka National Historical Park, forcing many of them north to Chichagof Island.
By 1821 the Tlingits had reached an accord with the Russians, who were happy to benefit from the tribe’s hunting skills. Under Baranof and succeeding managers, the Russian-American Company and the town prospered, becoming known as the Paris of the Pacific. The community built a major shipbuilding and repair facility, sawmills, and forges, and even initiated an ice industry, shipping blocks of ice from nearby Swan Lake to the booming San Francisco market. The settlement that was the site of the 1802 conflict is now called Old Sitka. It is a state park and listed as a National Historic Landmark.
The town declined after its 1867 transfer from Russia to the United States, but it became prosperous again during World War II, when it served as a base for the U.S. effort to drive the Japanese from the Aleutian Islands. Today its most important industries are fishing, government, and tourism.
Getting Here and Around
Sitka is a common stop on cruise routes for smaller ships and a regular stop along the Alaska Marine Highway System. Alaska Airlines also operates flights from Seattle and other Alaskan cities to Sitka. The best way to see the town’s sights is on foot.
Cruise Travel
Only the smallest excursion vessels can dock in downtown Sitka. Some medium to large cruise ships drop anchor in the harbor and tender passengers ashore near Harrigan Centennial Hall. Other larger ships head to a privately owned dock about 5 miles north of town at Halibut Point and passengers are bused to the city center. Sitka is an extremely walkable town, and the waterfront attractions are all fairly close to the tender landing. Highliner Coffee on Seward Street offers free Wi-Fi with a coffee purchase.
Tours
Sitka Tours (907/747–5800) meets ferries and cruise ships and leads both bus tours and historical walks.
Tribal Tours (907/747–7290, 888/270–8687 | www.sitkatours.com) emphasizes Sitka’s rich Native culture, with bus or walking tours and dance performances at the Tribal Community House.
Visitor Information
The Harrigan Centennial Hall has a volunteer-staffed information desk provided by the Sitka Convention and Visitors Bureau (907/747–5940 | www.sitka.org), whose headquarters are a short walk away on Lincoln Street.
Walking Around Sitka
Many visitors begin tours of Sitka under the distinctive onion dome of St. Michael’s Cathedral, right in the town center. A block behind the cathedral along Harbor Drive is Harrigan Centennial Hall, a low-slung convention hall that houses the smallish Sitka Historical Society and Museum and an information desk that opens when cruise ships are in port. A block east, along Lincoln Street, you’ll find the Russian Bishop’s House, one of the symbols of Russian rule. Continue out on Lincoln Street along the bustling boat harbor to Sheldon Jackson College, where the worthwhile Sheldon Jackson Museum is packed with Native cultural artifacts. Another ½ mile out along gently curving Metlakatla Street is the Sitka National Historical Park, where you can chat with Native artisans as they craft carvings and silver jewelry. Behind the main building a network of well-signed paths takes you through the rain forest past more than a dozen totem poles and to the site of a Tlingit fort from the battle of 1804. A signed trail crosses the Indian River (watch for spawning salmon in late summer) and heads across busy Sawmill Creek Road to the Alaska Raptor Center, for an up-close look at bald eagles.
Return to town along Sawmill Creek Road. On your right, you’ll see the white headstones of the small Sitka National Cemetery. Back downtown, you can browse the many shops or walk along Harbor Drive and take the path to the summit of Castle Hill, where Russia transferred Alaska to American hands—these are the best views in town. If you follow the path down the other side of the hill, check out the impressive Sitka State Pioneers Home, with the statue of pioneer “Skagway Bill” Fonda. Across the street is Totem Square, with its tall totem pole and three ancient anchors. Adjacent to the Pioneers Home is the Sheet’ka Kwaan Naa Kahidi community house. Native dances take place here in summer. End your walk at the haunting (not haunted) Russian and Lutheran cemeteries that fill the dark woods along Marine Street a block from the blockhouse. The grave of Princess Maksoutoff, a member of the Russian royal family, is here.
Sitka has many attractions, and you can easily spend a full day exploring this culturally rich area. You can accomplish the walk in two to three hours if you do not spend much time at each stop.
Essentials
Airline Contact
Alaska Airlines. | 800/252–7522 | www.alaskaair.com.
Ferry Contact
Alaska Marine Highway System. | 907/465–3941, 800/642–0066 | www.dot.state.ak.us/amhs.
Sitka Ferry Terminal. | 5307 Halibut Point Rd. | 907/747–8737.
Internet
Highliner Coffee Café. | 327 Seward St. | 907/747–4924 | www.highlinercoffee.com.
Medical Assistance
Sitka Community Hospital. | 209 Moller Ave. | 907/747–3241 | www.sitkahospital.org.
Pharmacy
Harry Race Pharmacy. | 106 Lincoln St. | 907/966–2130 | www.whitesalaska.com/harry-race-pharmacy.html.
White’s Pharmacy. | 705 Halibut Point Rd. | 907/966–2150 | www.whitesalaska.com/whites-pharmacy.html.
Visitor Information
Sitka Convention and Visitors Bureau. | 303 Lincoln St. | 907/747–5940 | www.sitka.org.
Exploring
Top Attractions
FAMILY | Alaska Raptor Center.
Above Indian Creek a 20-minute walk from downtown, Alaska’s only full-service avian hospital rehabilitates from 100 to 200 birds each year. Well-versed guides provide an introduction to the center (there’s also a short video), and guests can visit with one of these majestic birds. The primary attraction is an enclosed 20,000-square-foot flight-training center, built to replicate the rain forest, where injured eagles relearn survival skills, including flying and catching salmon. Visitors watch through one-way glass windows. A large deck out back faces an open-air enclosure for eagles and other raptors whose injuries prevent them from returning to the wild. Additional mews with hawks, owls, and other birds lie along a rain forest path. The gift shop sells all sorts of eagle paraphernalia, the proceeds from which fund the center’s programs. | 1000 Raptor Way, off Sawmill Creek Rd. | 907/747–8662, 800/643–9425 | www.alaskaraptor.org | $12 | Mid-May–Sept., daily 8–4.
St. Michael’s Cathedral.
One of Southeast’s best-known landmarks, the onion-dome cathedral is so treasured by locals that in 1966, as a fire engulfed the building, townspeople risked their lives and rushed inside to rescue precious Russian icons, religious objects, and vestments. An almost exact replica of St. Michael’s was completed in 1976. Today you can view what may well be the largest collection of Russian icons in the United States, among them Our Lady of Sitka (also known as the Sitka Madonna) and the Christ Pantocrator (Christ the World Judge), displayed on the altar screen. | 240 Lincoln St. | 907/747–8120 | www.oca.org/parishes/oca-ak-sitsmk | $2 | May–Sept., daily 9–4; Oct.–Apr., hrs vary.
Sheldon Jackson Museum.
This octagonal museum that dates from 1895 contains priceless Native Alaskan items collected by Dr. Sheldon Jackson (1834–1909), who traveled the remote regions of Alaska as an educator and missionary. The collection represents every Native Alaska culture. On display are carved masks, Chilkat blankets, dogsleds, kayaks, and even the impressive helmet worn by Chief Katlian during an 1804 battle against the Russians. The museum’s small but well-stocked gift shop carries books, paper goods, and handicrafts created by Alaska Native artists. | 104 College Dr. | 907/747–8981 | www.museums.state.ak.us/sheldon_jackson/sjhome.html | $5 mid-May–mid-Sept., $3 mid-Sept.–mid-May | Mid-May–mid-Sept., daily 9–5; mid-Sept.–mid-May, Tues.–Sat. 10–4.
Fodor’s Choice | Sitka National Historical Park.
The main building at this 113-acre park houses a small museum with fascinating historical exhibits and photos of Tlingit Native culture. Highlights include a brass peace hat given to the Sitka Kiksádi by Russian traders in the early 1800s and Chilkat robes. Head to the theater to watch a 12-minute video about Russian–Tlingit conflict in the 19th century. Ask a ranger to point you toward the Centennial Totem Pole, installed in 2011 to honor the park’s 100th anniversary. Also here is the Southeast Alaska Indian Cultural Center, where Native artisans demonstrate silversmithing, weaving, wood carving, and basketry. Make an effort to strike up a conversation with the artists; they’re on site to showcase and discuss their work and Tlingit cultural traditions. At the far end of the building are seven totems (some more than a century old) that have been brought indoors to protect them from decay. Behind the center a wide, 2-mile path winds through the forest and along the shore of Sitka Sound. Scattered along the way are some of the most skillfully carved Native totem poles in Alaska. Keep going on the trail to see spawning salmon from the footbridge over Indian River. TIP In summer, Park Service rangers lead themed walks that focus on the Russian–Tlingit conflict, the area’s natural history, and the park’s totem poles. | 106 Metlakatla St. | 907/747–0110 for visitor center | www.nps.gov/sitk | Free | May–Sept., daily 8–5; Oct.–Apr., Tues.–Sat. 9–3.
Worth Noting
Castle Hill.
On this hill, Alaska was formally handed over to the United States on October 18, 1867, and the first 49-star U.S. flag was flown on January 3, 1959, signifying Alaska’s statehood. To reach the hill, take the first right off Harbor Drive just before O’Connell Bridge; then enter the Baranof Castle Hill State Historic Site. A paved path switchbacks to the top, where you can read the interpretive signs on the area’s Tlingit and Russian history and take in the views of Crescent Harbor and downtown Sitka. TIP On a clear day, look for the volcanic flanks of Mt. Edgecumbe on the horizon. | Harbor Rd. | 907/747–6249 for DNR Sitka Ranger Station | www.dnr.alaska.gov/parks/aspunits/southeast/baranofcastle.htm.
FAMILY | Fortress of the Bear.
An independently operated animal rescue center, Fortress of the Bear offers the chance to see bears up close without worry for safety. The center, 5 miles east of Sitka, shelters a handful of brown and black bears, both adults and cubs, in large enclosures that allow them to interact and play. In addition to creating a hospitable environment for bears that might otherwise be euthanized, the center educates visitors about human–animal interaction. TIP Catch a shuttle (907/747–3550) to the facility from downtown Sitka, or contact Sitka Wildlife Tours (907/747–5800 | www.sitkatoursalaska.com). | 4639 Sawmill Creek Rd. | 907/747–3032 | www.fortressofthebear.org | $10 | May–Sept., daily 9–5; Oct.–Apr., weekends 10–4.
Harbor Mountain.
During World War II the U.S. Army constructed a road to the 2,000-foot level of Harbor Mountain, a perfect spot from which to watch for invading Japanese subs or ships (none were seen). This road has been improved over the years, and it is possible to drive 5 miles to a spectacular summit viewpoint across Sitka Sound. A trail climbs uphill from the parking lot, then follows the ridge 2½ miles to a Forest Service shelter. From there, ambitious hikers can continue downhill another 3½ miles to Sitka via the Gavan Hill Trail. | Harbor Mountain Rd.
Russian and Lutheran cemeteries.
Most of Sitka’s Russian dignitaries are buried in these sites that, thanks to their wooded locations off Marin Street, require a bit of exploring to locate. The most distinctive (and easily accessible) grave belongs to Princess Maksoutoff (died 1862), wife of the last Russian governor and one of the most illustrious members of the Russian royal family to be buried on Alaska soil. | Marine and Seward sts. | 907/747–3338 | www.sitkalutheranchurch.org/cemetery.htm.
Russian Bishop’s House.
The Russian–American Company built this registered historic landmark for Bishop Innocent Veniaminov. Completed in 1843 and one of Alaska’s few remaining Russian-built log structures, the house, which faces the harbor, contains exhibits on the history of Russian America. In several places, portions of the structure are peeled away to expose Russian building techniques. The ground level is a free museum. Park Service rangers lead guided tours of the second floor, which holds the residential quarters and a chapel. | 501 Lincoln St. | 907/747–0107 for Sitka National Historical Park office | www.nps.gov/sitk/historyculture/russian-bishops-house.htm | Tours $4 | Mid-May–Sept., daily 9–5; Oct.–Apr., by appointment.
Sitka Historical Society and Museum.
A Tlingit war canoe sits beside this brick building, formally named Harrigan Centennial Hall. Check out the museum’s collection of Tlingit, Victorian-era, and Alaska-purchase historical artifacts; there’s an auditorium for New Archangel Dancers performances, which take place when cruise ships are in port. | 330 Harbor Dr. | 907/747–6455 for museum, 907/747–5940 for Visitors Bureau | www.sitkahistory.org | Free (donations welcome) | Museum mid-May–mid-Sept., weekdays 9–5, Sat. 10–4; mid-Sept.–mid-May, Tues.–Sat. 10–2.
FAMILY | Sitka Sound Science Center.
The exhibits and activities at this waterfront facility highlight Sitka’s role as a regional hub for whale biologists, fisheries-management experts, and other specialists. Attractions include a touch tank, five wall-mounted aquariums, a killer-whale skeleton, and a fish hatchery. Well-placed signs throughout this working science center describe what’s going on, providing a great introduction for kids to hands-on environmental science. | 834 Lincoln St. | 907/747–8878 | www.sitkascience.org | $5 | Weekdays 9–4, Sat. 10–2.
Sitka State Pioneers Home.
Known locally as just the Pioneers Home, this large, red-roof home for elderly Alaskans has an imposing 14-foot statue in front symbolizing Alaska’s frontier sourdough spirit. (“Sourdough” generally refers to Alaska’s American pioneers and prospectors.) The statue was modeled by an authentic prospector, William “Skagway Bill” Fonda. The small store here sells items made by residents. Adjacent to the home is Sitka Tribal Tours’ Sheet’ka Kwaan Naa Kahidi community house, where you can watch Native dance performances throughout the summer. | Lincoln and Katlian sts. | 907/747–7290 for Sitka Tribal Tours reservations, 907/747–3213 for Sitka Pioneers Home.
Totem Square.
On this grassy square across the street from the Pioneers Home are three anchors discovered in local waters and believed to be of 19th-century British origin. Look for the double-headed eagle of czarist Russia carved into the cedar of the park’s totem pole. | 200 Katlian St. | www.sitka.org/play/attractions.
FAMILY | Whale Park.
This small waterside park sits in the trees 4 miles east of Sitka right off Sawmill Creek Road. Boardwalk paths lead to five viewing platforms and steps lead down to the rocky shoreline. A gazebo next to the parking area contains signs describing the whales that visit Silver Bay, and you can listen to their sounds from recordings and an offshore hydrophone. | Sawmill Creek Rd. | www.sitka.org/play/attractions.
Outdoor Activities and Guided Tours
Bicycling
Yellow Jersey Cycle Shop.
If it isn’t raining, rent a high-quality mountain bike from Yellow Jersey Cycle Shop and head out on the nearby dirt roads and trails. Staffers know Sitka’s many mountain- and road-bike routes well. | 329 Harbor Dr. | 907/747–6317 | www.yellowjerseycycles.com | From $20.
Boat and Kayak Tours
Alaska Travel Adventures.
Alaska Travel Adventures leads a three-hour kayaking tour in protected waters south of Sitka. The tour includes friendly guides, basic kayak instruction, and snacks at a remote cabin on the water. | 800/323–5757 | www.bestofalaskatravel.com | $125.
Allen Marine Tours.
One of Southeast’s largest and best-known tour operators leads several boat-based Sitka Sound tours throughout the summer. The Wildlife Quest tours provide a fine opportunity to view humpback whales, sea otters, puffins, eagles, and brown bears in a spectacular setting. When seas are calm enough, Allen Marine conducts a tour to the bird sanctuary at St. Lazaria Islands National Wildlife Refuge. | 1512 Sawmill Creek Rd. | 907/747–8100, 888/747–8101 | www.allenmarinetours.com | Call for rates.
Sitka Sound Ocean Adventures.
The guide company’s waterfront operation is easy to find: just look for the big blue bus at Crescent Harbor next to Harrigan Centennial Hall. Sitka Sound runs various guided kayak trips through the mysterious and beautiful outer islands off the coast of Sitka. Guides help new-to-the-area paddlers understand Sitka Sound’s wonders, and for day trips the company packs a great picnic. Experienced paddlers who want to go it alone can rent gear. | Harbor Dr., at Centennial Hall | 907/752–0660 | www.kayaksitka.com | From $50.
Bus Tours and Historical Walks
Sitka Tours.
Longtime local business Sitka Tours meets ferries and cruise ships and leads both bus tours and historical walks. | 907/747–5800 | www.sitkatoursalaska.com.
Tribal Tours.
This company conducts bus and walking tours that emphasize Sitka’s rich Native culture and include dance performances at the Tribal Community House. | 907/747–7137 | www.sitkatours.com.
Fishing
Sitka is home to a fleet of charter boats. The Sitka Convention and Visitors Bureau website (www.sitka.org) has descriptions of and web links to several dozen sportfishing operators.
The Boat Company.
This outfitter offers multiday wildlife-watching and fishing trips departing from Sitka and Juneau. | 360/697–4242, 877/647–8268 | www.theboatcompany.org.
Four-Wheeling
Alaska ATV Tours.
Departing from Sitka aboard two-person Yamaha ATVs, this outfit’s half-day tour of remote Kruzof Island includes a scenic 30-minute boat transfer through the islands and channels of Sitka Sound. Stops include Iris Meadows Estuary, a black-sand beach, and one of Kruzof’s salmon-laden creeks. | 907/966–2301, 877/966–2301 | www.alaskaatvtours.com.
Hiking and Wildlife Viewing
Sitka Trail Works.
You can pick up a good map of local trails from this nonprofit organization that helps maintain them. | 801 Halibut Point Rd. | 907/747–7244 | www.sitkatrailworks.org.
Starrigavan Recreation Area.
Seven miles north of Sitka, the recreation area is a peaceful place to explore the rain forest. The state ferry terminal is less than a mile from Starrigavan, and a popular Forest Service campground is also here. Several easy trails pass through the area, including the ¼-mile boardwalk Estuary Life Trail. It circles a small estuary and includes a bird-viewing shelter and access to a nearby artesian well. The ¾-mile Forest and Muskeg Trail winds through a spruce-hemlock forest and traverses a muskeg. Across the road is the delightful 1¼-mile loop Mosquito Cove Trail, which skirts the rocky shoreline to Mosquito Cove before returning through thickly forested hills. | Halibut Point Rd. | 907/747–4216.
Where to Eat
Fly-in Fish Inn.
AMERICAN | A good breakfast option for those who like to gaze out the window over a cup of coffee, this restaurant that’s part of a B&B is close to where float planes tie up on the docks. Just a few blocks from the center of town, the Fly-in is open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Menu items include fish ‘n’ chips, burgers, and homemade pizza. There’s a cocktail bar, and in good weather you can sit out on the deck. | Average main: $14 | 485 Katlian St. | 907/747–7910 | www.flyinfishinn.com | No lunch; no dinner Sun. and Mon.
The Larkspur Cafe.
PACIFIC NORTHWEST | Inside the charming Cable House along with KCAW, Sitka’s community radio station, this cozy gem of a café is a locals’ hangout known for its carefully prepared meals. The local focus is also reflected in the food, which includes salmon chowder, sockeye lox, and rockfish tacos, and in the beers, many of them by the town’s Baranof Island Brewing Company. You can’t go wrong with the brown ale—or anything else. | Average main: $12 | 2 Lincoln St. | 907/966–2326 | Closed Mon. No dinner Sun.
Little Tokyo.
JAPANESE | This small place isn’t fancy, but its chefs turn out great rolls and nigiri. Expect all the standards, plus Alaska rolls (with smoked salmon and avocado). Udon noodle soups are popular on rainy afternoons, and bento-box dinners—complete with katsu entrées, California rolls, tempura, pot stickers, miso soup, and salad—cost about $10. | Average main: $9 | 315 Lincoln St. | 907/747–5699.
Fodor’s Choice | Ludvig’s Bistro.
MEDITERRANEAN | Food lovers pack into Ludvig’s to sample chef-owner Colette Nelson’s remarkably creative cuisine. Be prepared for a wait, but rest assured that your meal will be worth it. The interior evokes an Italian bistro, with rich yellow walls and copper-top tables. Seafood (particularly king salmon and scallops) is the specialty, and organic ingredients are used whenever possible. You’ll also find Caesar salad, vegetarian specials, and Angus filet mignon; the wine list is among the state’s best. Ludwig’s recently expanded its local offerings to include Rio’s wine bar and a soup cart—great options for those who can’t commit to dinner or score a reservation. At Rio’s, upstairs from the bistro, you can order tapas; on the menu at the cart, next to the Sitka Sound Science Center are chowders, sandwiches, and salads. | Average main: $26 | 256 Katlian St. | 907/966–3663 | www.ludvigsbistro.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. May–Aug., and Sun.–Tues. in Sept.
Nugget Restaurant.
AMERICAN | Travelers flying out of Sitka’s airport repair to the Nugget while hoping their jet will arrive through the pea-soup fog outside. More than a dozen burgers are served, along with sandwiches, tuna melts, salads, steaks, pasta, seafood, and, on Friday night, prime rib. There’s a big breakfast menu, too, but the homemade pies, famous throughout Southeast Alaska, are the real attraction. TIP The lemon custard pie is a local favorite. Get a slice à la mode, or buy a whole pie to go. | Average main: $12 | Sitka Airport Terminal,600 Airport Dr. | 907/966–2480.
Van Winkle & Sons.
SEAFOOD | Formica tabletops, paper napkins, and vinyl swivel chairs make for a lackluster ambience that doesn’t match up to the gorgeous water views and upscale fare served here, but you probably won’t mind. One of Sitka’s largest eateries, Van Winkle dubs its fare “frontier cuisine,” which translates to a seafood-heavy menu, but the restaurant also serves pizzas, chicken, and duck. The create-your-own pastas are excellent—a half order is plenty for normal-size appetites—and the rich desserts are also shareable. | Average main: $15 | 205 Harbor Dr. | 907/747–7652 | No lunch weekends.
Where to Stay
Alaska Ocean View Bed & Breakfast.
B&B/INN | Carole Denkinger, who runs this cozy inn out of the home she shares with her husband, Bill, is an extremely personable host who enjoys discussing Sitka and prides herself on never serving anyone the same breakfast twice. In one of the upstairs rooms guests can take advantage of a deep jetted tub; a comfortable king bed facing an ambient fireplace; and a small balcony overlooking the harbor. The double queen room downstairs has a sliding glass door leading out to a hot tub. Guests can borrow a laptop to check their email, binoculars to scan the water for whales, and Alaska videos to view in their rooms. Pros: in-room fireplace; harbor views; large, varied breakfasts. Cons: only three rooms. | Rooms from: $150 | 1101 Edgecumbe Dr. | 907/747–8310, 888/811–6870 | www.sitka-alaska-lodging.com | 3 rooms | Breakfast.
Baranof Wilderness Lodge.
B&B/INN ALL-INCLUSIVE | A quick floatplane ride from Sitka, this cozy fishing lodge is on Baranof Island, a remote and magnificent location from which to explore the surrounding landscape and view wildlife that includes bears, whales, and eagles. Fishing packages that start at $5,350 per person for five-nights include transportation from Sitka, boats and guide service, lodging in cabins with private baths, and gourmet food and wine served at communal meals. Special wildlife photography seminars and fly-fishing classes are offered throughout the summer. The lodge has two wood-fired hot tubs, and nearby is a natural hot spring that pours 108°F water into a series of pools overlooking a waterfall. Most of the surrounding land is within Tongass National Forest. Pros: rate is all-inclusive from Sitka. Cons: expensive in comparison to similar accommodations. | Rooms from: $5350 | Warm Springs Bay | 907/738–3597, 800/613–6551 | www.flyfishalaska.com | 1 room, 7 cabins | No credit cards | Closed Oct.–May | All-inclusive.
Totem Square Hotel & Marina.
HOTEL | In downtown Sitka and one of the town’s better-run outfits, the inn is popular with fishing and corporate types. The rooms are clean and well furnished, and some have town or harbor views. Pay the extra $10 for a room with a harbor view. Two waterfront suites have kitchens. Salmon-fishing charters are available nearby. Pros: within walking distance of most attractions. Cons: rooms without harbor view overlook a parking lot. | Rooms from: $225 | 201 Katlian St. | 907/747–3693, 866/300–1353 | www.totemsquarehotel.com | 68 rooms | No meals.
Westmark Sitka.
HOTEL | The Westmark has large rooms, many overlooking Crescent Harbor; the best are the corner suites. Downstairs, the Raven Dining Room is open for three meals a day, with seafood (including beer-batter halibut), pasta, chicken, pork, and steak. Adjacent to the Raven, the Kadataan Lounge serves up a diverse menu of bar food. Pros: nice views; big rooms. Cons: décor somewhat dated. | Rooms from: $199 | 330 Seward St. | 907/747–6241, 800/544–0970 in U.S., 800/999–2570 in Canada | www.westmarkhotels.com/sitka.php | 100 rooms, 3 suites | No meals.
White Sulphur Springs Cabin.
RENTAL | With incredible views and proximity to a hot-springs bathhouse, this isolated retreat 65 miles northwest of Sitka is one of Southeast’s most prized public-use cabins. In the Tongass National Forest facing the Pacific Ocean, the cabin is accessible only by boat, and you’ll need to walk in from a nearby cove. The cabin sleeps four (bring your own sleeping bags) and has bunk beds, a woodstove, a table, and an outhouse. No mattresses or cooking utensils are provided—you must bring all your own supplies—and there are no services. Pros: beautiful surroundings; Pacific Ocean views. Cons: guests must bring own bedding and cooking utensils; requires boat ride to location. | Rooms from: $35 | West Chichagof–Yakobi Wilderness Area | 907/747–6671 for info, 877/444–6777 for reservations | www.recreation.gov | 1 cabin | No meals.
Nightlife and the Arts
Bars
Baranof Island Brewing Company.
Beer lovers will want to check out the brewery’s taproom, open daily from 3 pm to 8 pm. Under state law, patrons can only consume up 36 ounces in one visit. Pizzas and other light fare are served. | 215 Smith St. | 907/747–2739 | www.baranofislandbrewing.com.
Bayview Pub.
In addition to its selection of Alaskan and Pacific Northwest craft beers, “The Pub” is known for handcrafted classic cocktails made with freshly squeezed juices. Dinner is served nightly (lunch daily except Monday), and there’s a late-night menu on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday night. The pub has a stage for live music; nonmusical diversions include two pool tables, a dart area, and plenty of wide-screen TVs. | 407 Lincoln St. | 907/747–5300 | www.sitkabayviewpub.com.
Pioneer Bar.
As far as the locals are concerned, the few green-and-white-vinyl booths at this bar across from the harbor make a fine destination. The Pioneer is vintage Alaska, with pool tables, rough-hewn locals clad in Carhartts and XtraTuf boots, hundreds of pictures of local fishing boats, and occasional live music. Regulars, mostly local fishermen, swear by the submarine sandwiches and hot dogs. One downside: the Pioneer allows smoking, so you’re likely to leave smelling like an ashtray. | 212 Katlian St. | 907/747–3456.
Dance
New Archangel Dancers of Sitka.
Dedicated to preserving Alaska’s Russian history, this all-female troupe has performed in Sitka since 1969. The 30-minute performances showcase authentic dances from the surrounding regions and Russia. Tickets ($10) are sold a half hour before performances. | Harrigan Centennial Hall,330 Harbor Dr. | 907/747–5516 for schedule | www.newarchangeldancers.com.
Sheet’ka Kwaan Naa Kahidi Dancers.
The dancers perform Tlingit dances in full Native regalia at the Sheet’ka Kwaan Naa Kahidi community house on Katlian Street. The schedule is listed on the board at Harrigan Centennial Hall—common performance days are Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday. Tickets are sold at the door 30 minutes before performances. | 204 Katlian St. | 907/747–7137 | www.sitkatours.com/pages/Dancers.html.
Shopping
Art Galleries
Artist Cove Gallery.
Works by Alaska Native artists from Sitka and remote villages are the focus at this gallery that carries basketry, jewelry, and dolls. | 241 Lincoln St. | 907/738–1000 | www.artistcovegallery.com.
Devilfish Gallery.
Tlingit and Aleut artist Nicholas Galanin, internationally recognized for concept-driven creations that include sculptural pieces, fine-art prints, and carved silver bracelets, operates this gallery next to the Larkspur Cafe. Galanin’s work represents a fascinating mix of contemporary and traditional aesthetics and materials. Because the artist travels frequently, the gallery’s hours vary. | 2 Lincoln St. | 907/747–4577.
Fishermen’s Eye Fine Art Gallery.
This tasteful downtown gallery prides itself on its vibrant collection of made-in-Sitka art, including silver jewelry, Native masks, and carved bowls. | 239 Lincoln St. | 907/747–6080.
Island Artists Gallery.
A co-op of local artists, this storefront gallery sells their jewelry, pottery, fine-art prints, and other works. | 205 Lincoln St. | 907/747–6536 | www.islandartistsgallery.com.
Sitka Rose Gallery.
In an 1895 Victorian next to the Bishop’s House, the gallery, Sitka’s most charming shop, sells Alaskan paintings, sculptures, Native art, and jewelry. | 419 Lincoln St. | 907/747–3030, 888/236–1536 | www.sitkarosegallery.com.
Bookstore
Old Harbor Books.
The knowledgeable staff and impressive collection of Alaska titles make a visit to Old Harbor a pleasure. The Backdoor Café, a cozy left-wing hangout behind the bookstore, serves excellent espresso and fresh-baked pastries. | 201 Lincoln St. | 907/747–8808 | www.oldharborbooks.net
Gifts
Fresh Fish Company.
This company sells and ships fresh locally caught salmon, halibut, and shrimp. | 411 DeGroff St. | 907/747–5565, 888/747–5565 outside Alaska | www.akfreshfishinc.com.
WinterSong Soap Company.
The colorful and scented soaps sold at this shop near St. Michael’s Cathedral are handcrafted on the premises. | 321 Lincoln St. | 907/747–8949, 888/819–8949 | www.wintersongsoap.com.