Fodo_9780804143127_p03

Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

100 miles northeast of Sitka.

Juneau, Alaska’s capital and third-largest city, is on the North American mainland but can’t be reached by road. Bounded by steep mountains and water, the city’s geographic isolation and compact size make it much more akin to an island community such as Sitka than to other Alaskan urban centers, such as Fairbanks or Anchorage.

Tlingit residents of the area originally made their home in nearby Auke Bay, where the rain is less oppressive and the vistas are more open, but in summers they frequently moved down the channel what is now the Willoughby District of Juneau. Miners began arriving in the 1880s, including two colorful sourdoughs, Joe Juneau and Richard Harris. Led by a Tlingit chief named Kowee, Juneau and Harris discovered rich reserves of gold at Snow Slide Gulch, the drainage of Gold Creek around which the town was eventually built. Shortly thereafter a modest stampede resulted in the formation of a mining camp, which quickly grew to become the Alaska district government capital in 1906. The city may well have continued under its original appellation—Harrisburg, after Richard Harris—were it not for Joe Juneau’s political jockeying at a miner’s meeting in 1881.

For some 60 years after Juneau’s founding gold was the mainstay of the economy. In its heyday the AJ (for Alaska Juneau) Gold Mine was the biggest low-grade ore mine in the world. It was not until World War II, when the government decided it needed Juneau’s manpower for the war effort, that the AJ and other mines in the area ceased operations. After the war, mining failed to start up again and government became the city’s principal employer. Juneau’s mines leave a rich legacy, though: before it closed, the AJ Gold Mine alone produced more than $80 million in gold.

Perhaps because of its colorful history, Juneau is full of contrasts. Its dramatic hillside location and historic downtown buildings provide a frontier feeling, but the city’s cosmopolitan nature comes through in fine museums, noteworthy restaurants, and a literate and outdoorsy populace. The finest of the museums, the Alaska State Museum, is closed until 2016, when it will reopen on its old site as the expanded Alaska State Library, Archives, and Museum (SLAM). Here you can enjoy the Mt. Roberts Tramway, plenty of densely forested wilderness areas, quiet bays for sea kayaking, and even a famous drive-up glacier.

Whenever you arrive, make time for a tour to Mendenhall Glacier and the Macaulay Salmon Hatchery. Douglas (which at one point was a bigger outpost than Juneau) is across the Gastineau Channel to the west. For goings-on, pick up the Juneau Empire (www.juneauempire.com), which keeps tabs on state politics, business, sports, and local news.

Visitor Information

Pick up maps, bus schedules, charter-fishing information, and tour brochures at the small kiosks on the pier at Marine Park and in the cruise-ship terminal on South Franklin Street. Both are staffed when ships are in port.

Getting Here and Around

Juneau is an obligatory stop on the Inside Passage cruise and ferry circuit. Hence, the town has an overabundance of visitors in midsummer. Alaska Airlines also flies here. Downtown Juneau is compact enough that most of its main attractions are within walking distance of one another. Note, however, that the city is very hilly, so your legs will get a real workout. Look for the 20 signs around downtown that detail Juneau’s fascinating history.

Cruise Travel

Most cruise ships dock on the southern edge of town between the Marine Park and the A.J. Dock. Several ships can tie up at once; others occasionally anchor in the harbor. Juneau’s downtown shops are a pleasant walk from the docks, and the city’s Seawalk promenade allows visitors to skirt busy Franklin Street sidewalks. A shuttle bus ($2 all day) runs from the A.J. Dock to town whenever ships are in port.

Tours

Alaska Coach Tours (907/586–7433 | www.alaskacoachtours.com) operates the Historic Juneau Trolley, providing a 45-minute tour of Alaska’s capital city.

Mighty Great Trips (907/789–5460 | www.mightygreattrips.com) leads guided bus tours that include a visit to Mendenhall Glacier as well as helicopter tours, river rafting, and whale watching.

Essentials

Airline Contact
Alaska Airlines. | 800/252–7522 | www.alaskaair.com.

Medical Assistance
Bartlett Regional Hospital. | 3260 Hospital Dr. | 907/796–8900 | www.bartletthospital.org.

Previous Map | Next Map | Alaska Maps

Exploring

Top Attractions

FAMILY | Mount Roberts Tramway.
One of Southeast’s most popular tourist attractions whisks you from the cruise terminal 1,800 feet up the side of Mt. Roberts. After the six-minute ride you can take in a film on the history and legends of the Tlingits, visit the nature center, go for an alpine walk on hiking trails (including the 5-mile round-trip hike to Mt. Roberts’s 3,819-foot summit), purchase Native crafts, or enjoy a meal while savoring mountain views. A local company leads guided wilderness hikes from the summit, and the bar serves locally brewed beers. | 490 S. Franklin St. | 907/463–3412, 888/461–8726 | www.goldbelttours.com/mount-roberts-tramway | $32 | May–Sept., daily 8 am–9 pm. Hrs vary depending on cruise ship schedule.

South Franklin Street.
The buildings on South Franklin Street and neighboring Front Street, among the oldest and most inviting structures in the city, house curio and crafts shops, snack shops, and a salmon shop. Many reflect the architecture of the 1920s and ‘30s. When the small Alaskan Hotel opened in 1913, Juneau was home to 30 saloons; the Alaskan gives today’s visitors the most authentic glimpse of the town’s whiskey-rich history. The barroom’s massive, mirrored oak back bar is accented by Tiffany lights and panels. Topped by a wood-shingled turret, the 1901 Alaska Steam Laundry Building now houses a coffeehouse and other stores. The Senate Building, another of South Franklin’s treasured landmarks, is across the street.

Walter Soboleff Center.
This center devoted to Alaska Native art, culture, and language should be up and running by early 2015. Operated by Sealaska Heritage Institute and named for a local Tlingit elder who died at age 102 in 2011, it will include a gallery and performance spaces, a living-history center, research areas, and a retail shop selling work by Tlingit, Haida, and Tsimshian artists. Among the goals of this downtown historical district facility are promoting Juneau’s role as a hub of Northwest Coast art and fostering cross-cultural understanding between Native and non-Native populations, both residents and visitors. | 1 Sealaska Pl., Front and Seward sts. | 907/463–4844 | www.sealaskaheritagecenter.com.

Walking Around Juneau

The most common starting spot is Marine Park, right along the cruise-ship dock. From there, head up to Front Street to the Walter Soboleff Center, an Alaska Native arts and cultural center, one of the few modern buildings in this part of town. From there, walk up Main Street to the State Office Building, where you’ll find an observation deck with vistas across the Gastineau Channel. The snug but cheery Juneau–Douglas City Museum, a local treasure, sits a short distance away at 4th and Main streets. (The far bigger Alaska State Museum is closed for reconstruction through 2016.) The looming, banklike building across the Main Street is the Alaska State Capitol. For a far more attractive example of governmental architecture, continue southwest on 4th Street until it becomes Calhoun Street and then head north to the Governor’s Mansion.

After viewing the mansion, reverse course and head back downtown to peruse the historic buildings and busy shops, particularly those along South Franklin Street. Check out the Alaskan Hotel, the Alaska Steam Laundry Building, and the Senate Building before dipping inside the terminally crowded Red Dog Saloon at the intersection of South Franklin Street and Admiralty Way. Try a microbrew, and then continue down the street to the Mount Roberts Tramway, a popular way to reach alpine country for a hike overlooking Juneau and the Gastineau Channel. Next door is the colorful new Juneau Visitor Center. From here you can stroll down the recently constructed Seawalk, which parallels South Franklin.

To cover downtown Juneau’s many interesting sights, you should allow at least three or four hours for exploring. Add at least another hour if you’re a museum fan, or if you plan to ride the tram.

Worth Noting

Alaska State Capitol.
Completed in 1931 and remodeled in 2006, this unassuming building houses the governor’s office and hosts state legislature meetings in winter, placing it at the epicenter of Alaska’s animated political discourse. Historical photos line the upstairs walls. Feel free to stroll right in. TIP You can pick up a self-guided tour brochure as you enter. | Seward and 4th sts. | 907/465–4648 | w3.legis.state.ak.us/misc/capitol.php | Free | Tours mid-May–mid-Sept., weekdays 8:30–5, weekends 9:30–4.

Governor’s Mansion.
Completed in 1912, this stately colonial-style home overlooks downtown Juneau. With 14,400 square feet, 6 bedrooms, and 10 bathrooms, it’s no miner’s cabin. Out front is a totem pole that tells three tales: the history of man, the cause of ocean tides, and the origin of Alaska’s ubiquitous mosquitoes. Unfortunately, tours of the residence are not permitted. | 716 Calhoun Ave.

FAMILY | Juneau–Douglas City Museum.
Exhibits at this city-run museum interpret pioneer, mining, and Tlingit history. A diorama of a fire assay lab shows how the Bureau of Mines measured the gold content of rock samples, and there’s a reconstructed Tlingit fish trap. Pioneer artifacts include a century-old store and kitchen. Digital story kiosks shed light on Alaska’s quest for statehood, how government works here, civil rights in Alaska, and the cultures of Juneau. In the hands-on room, youngsters can try on clothes similar to ones worn by the miners and look at gold-rush stereoscopes. TIP Engaging historic walking tours of downtown ($25) take place May through September. | 114 4th St. | 907/586–3572 | www.juneau.org/parksrec/museum | $6 (free Oct.–Apr.), $25 walking tour (includes museum admission) | Museum: May–Sept., weekdays 9–6, Sat. 10–4:30; Oct.–Apr., Tues.–Sat. 10–4. Walking tour: May–Sept., Tues.–Thurs. at 1:30.

Juneau Visitor Center.
In a nod to the area’s maritime history—and the nearly one million cruise ship passengers who flock to the Capital City every summer—Juneau’s colorful visitor center was designed by local architects to resemble a ship’s transom. The building, which sits next to the cruise ship dock at the southern end of the waterfront Seawalk, is clad in iridescent stainless steel shingles. Reminiscent of the scales of a fish, they change color depending on your angle of view. The center has complete details on Juneau sights and activities, plus walking-tour maps and a guide to local trails. TIP Visitor information is also available at kiosks at Marine Park and at ferry terminal. | People’s Wharf, South Franklin St. | 907/586–2201 | www.traveljuneau.com.

Off the Beaten Path: Last Chance Mining Museum.
A 1½-mile hike or taxi ride behind town, this small museum is housed in the former compressor building of Juneau’s historic AJ Gold Mine. The collection includes old mining tools, railcars, minerals, and a 3-D map of the ore body. If you have time, and didn’t arrive on foot, meander down Basin Road back toward town. Unlike most of Juneau, Basin Road is flat and relatively quiet. The surrounding country is steep and wooded, with trails leading in all directions, including one to the summit of Mt. Juneau. At the base of the Perseverance Trail, not far from the museum, you can see the boarded-up opening to an old mining tunnel; even from a safe distance you can feel a chilly breeze wafting through the cracks. | 1001 Basin Rd. | 907/586–5338 | www.traveljuneau.com/cms/d/juneau_museums.php | $4 | Mid-May–mid-Sept., daily 9:30–12:30 and 3–6:30.

Marine Park.
On the dock where the cruise ships “tie up” is a little urban oasis with benches, shade trees, and shelter—a great place to enjoy an outdoor meal from one of Juneau’s street vendors. A visitor kiosk is staffed according to cruise-ship schedules. | Marine Way | www.juneau.org/parkrec/facilities/downtown.php.

Red Dog Saloon.
The frontierish quarters of the Red Dog have housed an infamous Juneau watering hole since 1890. Nearly every conceivable surface in this two-story bar is cluttered with graffiti, business cards, and memorabilia, including a pistol that reputedly belonged to Wyatt Earp, who failed to reclaim the piece after checking it in at the U.S. Marshall’s office on June 27, 1900. The saloon’s food menu includes halibut, reindeer sausage, potato skins, burgers, and locally brewed Alaskan beers. A little atmospheric sawdust covers the floor, and musicians pump out ragtime piano tunes when cruise ships are docked. | 278 S. Franklin St. | 907/463–3658 | www.reddogsaloon.com.

Seawalk.
Constructed as part of a long-range waterfront improvement plan, Juneau’s Seawalk currently runs from Marine Park down to the end of South Franklin Street. Plans call for it to extend further north to the Juneau–Douglas Bridge. The Seawalk provides a calmer pedestrian alternative to the narrow, crowded sidewalks of South Franklin Street; its rewards include beautiful views of Gastineau Channel and Douglas Island. Cruise ships and local boats operate in this area, so be prepared to sidestep disembarking passengers. One section passes between the Taku Smokeries fish-processing plant and an offloading dock for fishermen, allowing an occasional glimpse of an industry that remains an important part of Alaskan life. | S. Franklin St.

St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox Church.
Newly baptized Orthodox Natives and Siberian gold miners built what’s now Southeast’s oldest Russian church in 1894. Refurbished in the late 1970s, the onion-dome white-and-blue structure is a national historic landmark. Services sung in Slavonic, English, and Tlingit take place on weekends. | 326 5th St. | 907/586–1023 | www.stnicholasjuneau.org.

State Office Building.
The building’s sprawling eighth-floor patio, which faces the Gastineau Channel and Douglas Island, is a popular lunch destination for state workers and assorted residents. On most Fridays at noon, concerts inside the four-story atrium feature a grand old theater pipe organ, a veteran of the silent-movie era. Also in the atrium is the historic “Old Witch” totem pole, one of the older poles on view in the city. If you’re having trouble finding the building, just ask for directions to the “S.O.B.”—the locals are fond of acronyms. | 4th and Calhoun sts.

Wickersham State Historical Site.
At the top of the hill behind the capitol, on a rise sometimes known as “Chicken Ridge,” stands the former residence of James Wickersham, pioneer judge, delegate to Congress, prolific author, and gutsy outdoorsman. The white New England–style home, constructed in 1898, contains memorabilia from the judge’s travels throughout Alaska—from rare Native basketry and ivory carvings to historic photos and a Chickering grand piano that came “’round the Horn” to Alaska in the 1870s. The tour provides a glimpse into the life of this dynamic man. | 213 7th St. | 907/586–9001 | www.dnr.alaska.gov/parks/units/wickrshm.htm | Free | Mid-May–Sept., Sun.–Thurs. 9–4.

Outdoor Activities and Guided Tours

Boating, Canoeing, and Kayaking

Above & Beyond Alaska.
Juneau-based Above & Beyond conducts day and overnight camping trips, ice climbing adventures, and Mendenhall Glacier and sea-kayaking trips. | Auke Bay | 907/364–2333 | www.beyondak.com | From $115.

Alaska Boat and Kayak Shop.
Rent kayaks, canoes, and camping equipment at the Auke Bay boat harbor 12 miles north of Juneau. The company also provides water-taxi services for kayakers looking to access remote paddling terrain. | 11521 Glacier Hwy. | 907/789–6886 | www.juneaukayak.com | Kayak rentals from $40, trips from $109.

Alaska Discovery.
Operated by Mountain Travel Sobek, Alaska Discovery leads 9- and 12-day trips down the Tatshenshini and Alsek rivers. | 510/594–6000, 800/586–1911 | www.mtsobek.com/trips/br/region-north-america | From $3,495.

Alaska Travel Adventures.
Mendenhall River floats are among the Juneau-area tours this outfit offers. | 9085 Glacier Hwy. | 800/323–5757, 907/789–0052 | www.bestofalaskatravel.com | $135.

Allen Marine Tours.
Family-owned Allen Marine Tours conducts catamaran trips to Tracy Arm fjord, whale-watching adventures out of Auke Bay, and several land-and-water combination tours. Book through your cruise line, or call for prices. | 907/789–0081, 888/289–0081 | www.allenmarinetours.com.

Climbing Gym

Rock Dump.
If it’s pouring down rain—and in Juneau, it often is—head south of town to the Rock Dump. The Dump has climbing walls for all abilities from beginner to expert; day passes cost $13. | 1310 Eastaugh Way | 907/586–4982 | www.rockdump.com.

Cross-Country Skiing

Foggy Mountain Shop.
Find groomed cross-country ski trails near the Eaglecrest Ski Area and at Mendenhall Campground in the winter. You can rent skis and get advice about touring the trails and ridges around town from Foggy Mountain Shop. The shop also outfits hikers and climbers in summer. | 134 N. Franklin St. | 907/586–6780 | www.foggymountainshop.com.

Parks and Recreation Department.
In the winter, the department sponsors a group ski and snowshoe outing each Wednesday and Saturday when there’s sufficient snow. Hikes are also offered in the summer. | 155 S. Seward St. | 907/586–5226, 907/586–0428 for 24-hr info | www.juneau.org/parkrec/hike.

Downhill Skiing

Eaglecrest.
Southeast’s only downhill ski area is on Douglas Island, 30 minutes from downtown Juneau. The resort typically offers skiing and snowboarding from late November to mid-April on 620 acres of well-groomed and off-piste terrain. Amenities include four double chairlifts, cross-country trails, a beginner’s slope, a ski school, a ski-rental shop, a cafeteria, and a trilevel day lodge. | 3000 Fish Creek Rd. | 907/790–2000, 907/586–5330 for recorded ski info | www.juneau.org/eaglecrest.

Fishing

Alaska Trophy Fishing.
Sportfishing is an exceedingly popular activity in the Juneau area, and many charter boats depart from local harbors. Alaska Trophy Fishing offers tailor-made fishing vacations and charters. | 907/321–5859, 866/934–7466 | www.alaskatrophyfishing.com.

Juneau Convention and Visitors Bureau.
The website and office for the Juneau Convention and Visitors Bureau has a complete list of operators and several companies that lead whale-watching trips from Juneau. | 907/586–2201, 888/581–2201 | www.traveljuneau.com.

Juneau Sportfishing & Sightseeing.
Take a fishing trip aboard a luxury boat with Juneau Sportfishing & Sightseeing. | 907/586–1887 | www.juneausportfishing.com.

Flightseeing

Several local companies operate helicopter flightseeing trips to the spectacular glaciers flowing from Juneau Icefield. Most have booths along the downtown cruise-ship dock. All include a touchdown on a glacier, providing the opportunity to romp on these rivers of ice. Some also lead trips that include a dogsled ride on the glacier. Helicopter tours in Juneau have a controversial history due to noise complaints from residents. Note that although we recommend the best companies, even some of the most experienced pilots have had accidents; always ask a carrier about its recent safety record before booking a trip.

Fodor’s Choice | Alaska Seaplanes.
Besides daily scheduled air service year-round to Gustavus/Glacier Bay, Elfin Cove, Tenakee Springs, Hoonah, Angoon, Haines, Kake, and Skagway, Alaska Seaplanes also offers flightseeing tours and charters to other Southeast destinations. | 1873 Shell Simmons Dr. | 907/789–3331 | www.flyalaskaseaplanes.com.

Coastal Helicopters.
These helicopters land on several glaciers within the Juneau Icefield. | 8995 Yandukin Dr. | 907/789–5600, 800/789–5610 | www.coastalhelicopters.com | $275.

ERA Helicopters.
Flying out of Douglas, ERA has a fully narrated one-hour trip that includes landing on the Norris or Taku glacier. The extended trip includes a dogsled tour across the ice. | 6910 N. Douglas Hwy. | 907/586–2030, 800/843–1947 | www.eraflightseeing.com | From $299.

NorthStar Trekking.
No experience is necessary at NorthStar, which has three levels of excellent glacier hikes. The lowest level includes a one-hour interpretive walk while the highest consists of a three-hour hike that includes the chance to practice basic climbing and rope techniques. Book through your cruise line, or call for prices. | 907/790–4530 | www.northstartrekking.com.

Temsco Helicopters.
The self-proclaimed pioneers of Alaska glacier helicopter touring, Temsco Helicopters offers glacier tours, dogsled adventures, and year-round flightseeing. Book through your cruise line or contact the company for pricing. | 1650 Maplesden Way | 907/789–9501, 877/789–9501 | www.temscoair.com/booking_request.php.

Ward Air.
Take flightseeing trips to Glacier Bay, the Juneau Icefield, Elfin Cove, Tracy Arm, and Pack Creek with Ward Air. | 8991 Yandukin Dr. | 907/789–9150, 800/478–9150 | www.wardair.com.

Wings Airways and Taku Glacier Lodge.
This Juneau-based company specializes in tours of the surrounding ice fields and the Taku Flight & Feast Tour, on which a salmon feast awaits you at a classic Alaskan cabin, complete with glacier views—one of the best day trips out of the state capital. | 2 Marine Way, Ste. 175 | 907/586–6275 | www.wingsairways.com | From $210.

Gold Panning

FAMILY | Alaska Travel Adventures.
Gold panning is fun, especially for children, and Juneau is one of Southeast’s best-known gold-panning towns. Sometimes you actually discover a few flecks of the precious metal in the bottom of your pan. You can buy a pan at almost any Alaska hardware or sporting-goods store. Alaska Travel Adventures has gold-panning tours near the famous Alaska Juneau Mine. | 800/323–5757, 907/789–0052 | www.bestofalaskatravel.com | From $59.

Golf

Mendenhall Golf Course.
This 9-hole, par-3 public course has a modest layout, but with views of Mendenhall Glacier and the mountains surrounding it that an exclusive private course would die for. Club rentals are available. | 2101 Industrial Blvd. | 907/789–1221 | home.gci.net/~hakari/mendenhall_golf/golf.html | $30 | 9 holes, 1400 yards, par 27.

Hiking

Gastineau Guiding.
This company leads a variety of hikes in the Juneau area. Especially popular are the walks from the top of the tram on Mt. Roberts. | 1330 Eastaugh Way, Ste. 2 | 907/586–8231 | www.stepintoalaska.com.

Parks and Recreation Department.
The department sponsors a group hike every Wednesday morning and an additional hike on Saturday in the summer. | 155 S. Seward St. | 907/586–5226, 907/586–0428 for 24-hr info | www.juneau.org/parkrec/hike.

U.S. Forest Service.
Hikers can contact the U.S. Forest Service for trail books and maps. | Juneau Ranger District office,8510 Mendenhall Loop Rd. | 907/586–8800.

Sightseeing and Glaciers

AJ Mine Gastineau Mill Tour.
Former miners lead two-hour tours of the historic AJ Gold Mine south of Juneau. The tours, which depart from downtown by bus, include a gold-panning demonstration and time in the old tunnels that lace the mountains. | Sheep Creek Mine Rd. | 907/463–5017 | www.ajgastineauminetour.com | Call for prices.

Juneau Convention and Visitors Bureau.
The bureau maintains a list of companies that conduct tours of Mendenhall Glacier, and others that provide boat trips to Tracy Arm’s Sawyer Glacier, about 50 miles southeast of Juneau. The recently opened Juneau Visitors Center, next to the Mt. Roberts Tramway building on South Franklin Street, is the bureau’s most convenient location for summertime visitors, and a fun example of local architecture. | 800 Glacier Ave., Ste. 201 | 907/586–2201, 888/581–2201 | www.traveljuneau.com.

Mighty Great Trips.
The company leads guided bus tours that include a visit to Mendenhall Glacier as well as helicopter tours, river rafting, and whale watching. | 907/789–5460 | www.mightygreattrips.com | From $35.

Taku Glacier Lodge.
This remote, historic lodge south of Juneau along Taku Inlet, directly across from Hole-in-the-Wall Glacier, is situated amid nature trails that wind through the surrounding country, where black bears and bald eagles are frequently sighted. Floatplanes fly from Juneau on a scenic trip to the lodge for a delicious lunch or dinner, followed by a flight back two hours later. No overnight stays are available. | 907/586–6275 | www.takuglacierlodge.com | $297.

Whale Watching

Alaska Whale Watching.
The company offers small-group excursions (up to 20 guests) aboard a luxury yacht with an onboard naturalist, as well as a combination whale watch and flightseeing tour over the Juneau icefield. | 907/321–5859, 888/432–6722 | www.akwhalewatching.com | From $159.

Juneau Sportfishing & Sightseeing.
With boats that carry a maximum of six passengers, this outfit provides a personalized whale-watching trip. | 2 Marine Way | 907/586–1887 | www.juneausportfishing.com | From $125.

Fodor’s Choice | Orca Enterprises (with Captain Larry).
The operator of these tours via jet boats designed for comfort and speed boasts a whale-sighting success rate of 99.9% between May and mid-October. | 495 S. Franklin St. | 907/789–6801, 888/733–6722 | www.alaskawhalewatching.com | From $129.

Fodor’s Choice | Weather Permitting Alaska.
The small-boat luxury whale-watching trips of Weather Permitting last four hours, including van travel. Visitors get plenty of time to view whales, bears, sea lions, eagles, porpoises, and other animals, all the while enjoying dramatic scenery. With only 10 customers on a trip (excepting single groups of up to 12), this is among the most intimate and comprehensive whale-watches anywhere. TIP For a truly unique experience, schedule a customized trip with an “Alaskan celebrity” such as the famous whale photographer and marine biologist Flip Nicklin (if he’s available). | 19400 Beardsley Way | 907/789–5843 | www.weatherpermittingalaska.com | From $189.

Where to Eat

Douglas Café.
AMERICAN | In the heart of quiet Douglas, across the bridge and a couple of miles from downtown Juneau, this family eatery has Formica tables and a menu that includes omelets, sandwiches, kids’ favorites, and burgers that are often cited as the best in the city. TIP This is a good choice for those seeking an alternative to downtown Juneau’s midsummer crowds. | Average main: $11 | 916 3rd St. | Douglas | 907/364–3307 | Closed Mon.

Gold Creek Salmon Bake.
SEAFOOD | Trees, mountains, and the rushing water of Salmon Creek surround the comfortable, canopy-covered benches and tables at this authentic salmon bake. Fresh-caught salmon is cooked over an alder fire and served with a succulent sauce. Come for lunch or dinner for all-you-can-eat salmon, pasta, and chicken along with baked beans, rice pilaf, salad bar, corn bread, and blueberry cake. Wine and beer cost extra. After dinner you can pan for gold in the stream, wander up a hill to explore the remains of a gold mine, or roast marshmallows over a fire. TIP The $46 fee includes a round-trip bus ride from downtown; make arrangements in advance through Alaska Travel Adventures. | Average main: $46 | 1061 Salmon Lane Rd. | 907/789–0052, 800/323–5757 | www.bestofalaskatravel.com/alaska_day_tours/pages/j_gold_creek_salmon.htm | Closed Oct.–Apr.

The Hangar on the Wharf.
ECLECTIC | Crowded with locals and travelers, the Hangar occupies the building where Alaska Airlines started business. Flight-theme puns (e.g., “Pre-flight Snacks” and the “Plane Caesar”) dominate the menu, but the comfortably worn wood and the vintage airplane photos create a casual experience that trumps the kitsch. Every seat has views of the Gastineau Channel and Douglas Island, and on warm days you can sit outdoors. The entrées include locally caught halibut and salmon, filet mignon, great burgers, and daily specials. The restaurant stocks more than 100 different beers, including a few dozen on tap. TIP If you’ve have had enough salmon, try the prime rib, a Hangar specialty. | Average main: $18 | Merchants Wharf Mall,2 Marine Way | 907/586–5018 | www.hangaronthewharf.com.

Heritage Coffee Company.
CAFÉ | Established in 1974, Heritage Coffee serves locally roasted coffees, along with gelato, fresh pastries, and specialty drinks. The same folks operate several other coffee outposts, including the Glacier Cafe in the Mendenhall Valley, which has a more substantial menu that includes burritos and omelets for breakfasts and, later in the day, panini, wraps, soups, salads, burgers, and various vegetarian dishes. Heritage Coffee’s Second Street Cafe, two blocks up the hill from the main location, has outdoor seating. The local downtown market, Foodland IGA, hosts a self-contained café inside the store. Kiosks can also be found in other locations, including the airport and the University of Alaska Southeast. | Average main: $3 | Front and Seward sts. | 907/586–1088 | www.heritagecoffee.com | No dinner.

Island Pub.
PIZZA | Fast service, a full bar, views of the Gastineau Channel, and occasional live music have turned this Douglas pub into an area hot spot. Salads, sandwiches, and wraps are served, but the real draw is pizza: thin, 13-inch focaccia crusts prepared fresh daily, topped with creative ingredients, and baked in a copper wood-fired oven. Customers are encouraged to build their own pies, and the best of their creations end up on the menu, keeping it in a state of constant flux. TIP If you don’t get too full, try a dessert pizza—bizarre, but surprisingly good. | Average main: $10 | 1102 2nd St. | Douglas | 907/364–1595 | www.theislandpub.com.

Rainbow Foods.
VEGETARIAN | This crunchy natural foods market with a weekday buffet is a popular lunch-break destination for downtown workers. Hot entrées, salads, soups, and deep-dish pizzas are prepared, along with self-serve coffee and freshly baked breads. TIP Arrive before 11 am for the best choices; a few tables are available inside. | Average main: $10 | 224 4th St. | 907/586–6476 | www.rainbow-foods.org | Reservations not accepted.

The Rookery Cafe.
CAFÉ | From fresh-baked pain au chocolat and buttermilk corncakes to crab BLTs and beet salad, the Rookery offers a varied breakfast and lunch menu, along with a range of coffee drinks. Come dinnertime the locals pile in for bistro-style dishes such as seared rib eye with pear-potato gratin and brandy blue cheese butter. Check out the hand-stenciled design on the walls and the local art that hangs on them; on the weekend there’s sometimes live acoustic music. | Average main: $18 | 111 Seward St. | 907/463–3013 | www.therookerycafe.com | Closed Sun.

The Sandpiper Café.
AMERICAN | This busy and bright café is in the Willoughby District, about a five-minute walk from the center of town. Though more upscale than most of Juneau’s breakfast and lunch options, it remains completely unfussy. The lunch menu includes hearty sandwiches such as reubens and patty melts; vegetarian options include the veggie burger with herb goat cheese. For breakfast, it’s hard to beat the smoked salmon omelet. Another simple thing done well here: a regular cup of coffee. TIP Weekend brunch is popular with locals, so be prepared for a wait. | Average main: $12 | 429 W. Willoughby Ave. | 907/586–3150 | No dinner.

Tracy’s King Crab Shack.
SEAFOOD | Bristol Bay king crab legs served with butter—a not-to-be-missed Alaskan delicacy—are the specialty of popular Tracy’s. If legs aren’t your thing, try the king crab bisque or the bite-size king crab cakes. All go perfectly with one of the beers on tap. Tracy’s expanded “shack” can be found on the docks between the Seawalk and the South Franklin Street shops. TIP There’s often a line to place your order, but the wait is entirely worth it. | Average main: $15 | 406 S. Franklin St. | 907/723–1811 | www.kingcrabshack.com | Reservations not accepted | Closed Oct.–Apr.

Twisted Fish Company.
SEAFOOD | Downtown Juneau’s liveliest eatery serves creative pan-Asian seafood and Alaska classics. Housed in a log-frame waterfront building adjacent to the Taku Store and the base of the Mount Roberts Tramway, Twisted serves fish as fresh as you’ll find. Grab a seat on the deck and enjoy prime-time Gastineau Channel gazing over a bowl of Captain Ron’s chowder. Inside is a dining room with large windows, a river-rock fireplace, and walls decorated with flame-painted salmon, porpoises, marlin, and tuna. | Average main: $24 | 550 S. Franklin St. | 907/463–5033 | www.twistedfish.hangaronthewharf.com | Closed Oct.–Apr.

Salt.
MEDITERRANEAN | The new owners of Salt retained the classy feel of its predecessor, Zephyr, but updated the menu and added a full bar. They serve upscale American and Mediterranean fare, including vegetarian options, and though the restaurant is a bit more expensive than most places in Juneau, the ambience and service make it worth the extra expense. About a block away, on Franklin Street, is Saffron, an Indian restaurant run by the same owners. Diners here sit either at low tables on cushions or at regular tables, and meals are served on huge silver trays that include naan, dal, rice, curry, and other tasty offerings. | Average main: $24 | 200 Seward St. | 907/780–2221 | www.zephyrrestaurant.com | Closed Sun.

Where to Stay

Fodor’s Choice | Alaska’s Capital Inn.
B&B/INN | Gold-rush pioneer John Olds built this American foursquare home in 1906, and a major restoration transformed it into downtown Juneau’s most elegant bed-and-breakfast. Owners Linda Wendeborn and Mark Thorson are laid-back and accommodating, and guests can expect lively conversation with their gourmet breakfasts and afternoon wine and treats. Rooms are tastefully decorated with handcrafted antiques. The fourth-floor Governor’s Suite has a fireplace, a hot tub, and a 180-degree view of downtown Juneau. Two rooms on the bottom level have private entrances and look out on a lush garden, where the hot tub sits under a gazebo. Pros: beautiful restoration of 1906 mansion; antiques; gourmet breakfasts. Cons: the inn sits atop a steep incline from the main section of downtown; room rates are a little high. | Rooms from: $259 | 113 W. 5th St. | 907/586–6507, 888/588–6507 | www.alaskacapitalinn.com | 6 rooms, 1 suite | Breakfast.

Aspen Suites Hotel.
HOTEL | A standard all-suites hotel near the airport, the Aspen is well suited for business travelers and travelers with children. Though in an industrial area, it’s within walking distance of one of Juneau’s easiest and most popular trails, the Mendenhall Wetlands Trail, on the far side of the airport. Pros: well-equipped kitchens; complimentary Wi-Fi. Cons: not near downtown attractions; housekeeping is weekly, not daily. | Rooms from: $169 | 8400 Airport Blvd. | 907/500–7700 | www.aspenhotelsak.com | 78 rooms | No meals.

Auke Lake Bed & Breakfast.
B&B/INN | A stay at this lakeside B&B about 4½ miles northwest of Juneau’s airport provides a glimpse into local living. Explore small, quiet Auke Lake by paddleboat, canoe, or kayak; enjoy it from the shoreside hot tub; or walk the 3-mile trail that circles it. The owners can provide personal recommendations for investigations farther afield. Room choices include four themed suites and one standard room; all have a private bath and refrigerator. Pros: secluded residential area; lakefront location; convenient to airport and ferry terminal. Cons: outside town; few restaurant options nearby. | Rooms from: $125 | 11595 Mendenhall Loop Rd. | 907/790–3253, 800/790–3253 | www.aukelakebb.com | 4 suites, 1 room | Breakfast.

Driftwood Lodge.
HOTEL | This workaday downtown motel is a good option for guests interested in preparing their own meals. Many rooms include kitchenettes stocked with dishes, pots, and pans, and several are big enough to accommodate groups of up to six people. In the Willoughby District, about a five-minute walk from the center of town, the lodge is adjacent to the Sandpiper Café, a popular breakfast and brunch spot, and a half-block from a supermarket. There is a ferry and airport shuttle. Pros: well-equipped kitchenettes in many rooms; most rooms are spacious; ferry and airport shuttle service. Cons: not handicap-accessible; spare and dated décor. | Rooms from: $130 | 435 W. Willoughby Ave. | 907/586–2280, 800/544–2239 | www.driftwoodalaska.com | 21 rooms, 41 suites | No meals.

Frontier Suites Airport Hotel.
HOTEL | Near the airport in Mendenhall Valley, 9 miles from Juneau, this rambling hotel has large rooms with full kitchens. The accommodations are nothing fancy, but they’re clean and comfortable, and a good fit for families. Suites have separate bedrooms and living rooms (with sleeper sofas), two televisions, and free Internet service. Two bunk rooms include a mini-loft for older children. Fans of Indian food will appreciate the Clay Oven restaurant adjacent to the hotel, which draws rave reviews from locals for its authentic cuisine. The hotel provides airport and ferry shuttle service. Pros: large rooms; full kitchens. Cons: far from downtown; lacks character. | Rooms from: $159 | 9400 Glacier Hwy. | 907/790–6600, 800/544–2250 | www.frontiersuites.com | 104 suites | No meals.

Goldbelt Hotel Juneau.
HOTEL | A high-rise by Juneau standards, the seven-story Goldbelt is one of the city’s better lodgings, with decent, if somewhat overpriced, rooms whose basic amenities include local coffee. Fans of Northwest Coast art will appreciate the authentic Alaska Native carvings on display in the lobby, as well as the contemporary panels in the rooms, based on traditional designs. Goldbelt, the corporation that runs the hotel and the Mount Roberts Tramway, is Alaska Native owned. Waterside rooms on the upper level have views across the Gastineau Channel, and some rooms have king-size beds. Pros: large rooms; authentic and interesting art. Cons: streetside rooms are noisy; a little pricy. | Rooms from: $189 | 51 W. Egan Dr. | 907/586–6900, 888/478–6909 | www.goldbelttours.com | 106 rooms | No meals.

Grandma’s Feather Bed.
B&B/INN | This charming Victorian-style hotel—the smallest property in the Best Western chain—is less than a mile from the airport in Mendenhall Valley. Cheerful colors brighten each of the spacious and homey rooms, which come with jetted bathtubs and, as the name would suggest, beds topped with voluminous feather comforters. Guests especially appreciate the big breakfast buffet that includes omelets, pancakes, and hot cereals. Dinners are available from Tuesday through Saturday. Pros: delicious breakfasts; deluxe suites with in-room whirlpool baths. Cons: outside downtown; books up quickly; not set up for children. | Rooms from: $199 | 9300 Glacier Hwy. | 907/789–5005, 888/781–5005 | www.grandmasfeatherbed.com | 14 suites | Breakfast.

Fodor’s Choice | Pearson’s Pond Luxury Inn and Adventure Spa.
B&B/INN | On a small pond near Mendenhall Glacier, this large, jaw-droppingly landscaped home may be Alaska’s finest bed-and-breakfast. Owner Maryann Ray pulls out all the stops for guests, with two outdoor hot tubs; ambient fireplaces; jetted bathtubs; a library full of books, DVDs, and videotapes; four-poster beds with high-end mattresses; private balconies; a Skype account for free calls home; hot breakfasts; and a well-stocked breakfast nook. Maryann and her daughter Rachael are skilled itinerary planners, and Rachael is even licensed to plan and perform weddings. Guests can borrow a rowboat, paddleboats, kayaks, fishing poles, hiking gear, and cross-country skis. In the summer a hot breakfast is served each morning and wine and cheese in the evening, and there’s never a shortage of friendly conversation. The Pond also has two condos in Douglas, closer to town, that sleep four people each. Pros: private balconies with excellent views; kayaks and bicycles for guest use. Cons: two-night minimum stay during summer; limited public transportation; not handicap-accessible. | Rooms from: $399 | 4541 Sawa Circle | 907/789–3772 | www.pearsonspond.com | 5 suites | Breakfast.

Prospector Hotel.
HOTEL | A short walk west of downtown, this nicely appointed but visually unremarkable hotel is a favorite with business travelers year-round and lawmakers during the winter legislative session. Rooms are spacious and have cherrywood furnishings, leather chairs, and ottomans. T.K. Maguire’s dining room and lounge, just off the lobby, serves prime rib, steaks, and seafood, and Sunday brunch is popular. Pros: convenient location; most pets accepted. Cons: lackluster exterior and lobby; rooms could use updating. | Rooms from: $169 | 375 Whittier St. | 907/586–3737, 800/331–2711 outside Alaska, 800/478–5866 in Alaska | www.prospectorhotel.com | 56 rooms, 7 suites | No meals.

Sentinel Island Lighthouse.
RENTAL | A few miles north of Juneau and adjacent to a rock where Steller sea lions haul out, this operating lighthouse, complete with a lantern visible from 17 miles away, provides a spectacular spot to watch whales and eagles. You have the entire cliff-bordered 6-acre island to roam. Simple accommodations include bunks in the lighthouse and an adjacent building; you can also pitch a tent on a platform facing the water. Water and cooking facilities are provided for all accommodations. The lighthouse is managed by the Gastineau Channel Historical Society, which also manages the Last Chance Mining Museum, and access is by charter boat, sea kayak, and helicopter. Guests must arrange transportation to the property and should be aware of its remote setting. Pros: excellent nature viewing; unique setting. Cons: remote location. | Rooms from: $50 | 907/586–5338 | gastineauchannel.blogspot.com | 6 bunks in 2 bldgs. | No credit cards | Closed mid-Sept.–mid-May | No meals.

Silverbow Inn.
B&B/INN | Conveniently located in Juneau’s historic downtown, the Silverbow has contemporary hotel rooms on two upper levels and a downstairs bakery and café. Four rooms are tiny, but they’re comfortable, and al rooms have flat-screen televisions and homey touches such as rubber duckies for the tubs. Guests stroll downstairs each morning for a filling breakfast, and in the evening wine and cheese are served. Owned by former New Yorkers, the bakery and café, open all day, serves bagels, pastries, soups, salads, and deli sandwiches. In 2014, the inn opened Juneau’s first wine bar off the lobby; though a bit cramped, it’s a nice addition and a pleasant place to sit and plan your next adventure. Pros: historic location. Cons: no laundry facilities; limited parking. | Rooms from: $189 | 120 2nd St. | 907/586–4146, 800/586–4146 | www.silverbowinn.com | 11 rooms | Breakfast.

Fodor’s Choice | U.S. Forest Service Cabins.
RENTAL | Scattered throughout Tongass National Forest, these rustic cabins offer a cheap and charming escape. Most are reached by floatplane or boat, but some are accessible by road. Most contain bunks for six to eight occupants, along with tables, stoves, and outdoor privies. There’s no electricity or running water, and you provide your own sleeping bag, food, and cooking ute | Rooms from: $35 | Juneau Ranger District,8510 Mendenhall Loop Rd. | 907/586–8800, 877/444–6777 for reservations | www.recreation.gov | 150 cab | No meals.

Westmark Baranof Hotel.
HOTEL | The Baranof has long been Juneau’s most prestigious address; it’s as close to a big-city boutique hotel as you’re going to find in Southeast. Tasteful woods and period lamps in the dark art-deco lobby create an old-money atmosphere reminiscent of 1939, when the hotel first opened. Upscale dining is available in the Gold Room, but be advised that this is one of the few restaurants in Juneau that has no windows. A small lounge, the Bubble Room, is a popular spot for legislators when they’re in town, and the attached Capitol Cafe serves a decent breakfast. Rooms on the front side have the best views, but street noise may keep you awake at the lower levels. The best accommodations are the spacious upper-floor corner suites, which overlook the busy harbor and have views of the forested mountains of Douglas Island. Some of the other rooms are fairly small, and the décor could use an update. Pros: elegant public areas; central location. Cons: lower floors are noisy; some rooms are small; dated room décor. | Rooms from: $179 | 127 N. Franklin St. | 907/586–2660, 800/544–0970 | www.westmarkhotels.com/juneau.php | 195 rooms and suites | No meals.

Nightlife and the Arts

Bars

Alaskan Brewing Company.
The company’s tasty, award-winning beers—including Alaskan Amber, Icy Bay IPA, White, Stout, and Freeride APA—are brewed and bottled in Juneau. At the brewery you can get free samples. TIP This is no designer brewery—it’s in Juneau’s industrial area, and there is no upscale café-bar attached—but the gift shop sells T-shirts and beer paraphernalia. You can also visit the brewery’s Downtown Depot, on Franklin Street; though you can’t sample the beer here, you can find out more about the brewing process and purchase Alaskan Brewing Company gear—or catch a shuttle to the brewery itself for $7.50 each way. Shuttles run hourly in the summer. | Brewery: 5429 Shaune Dr. Downtown Depot: 219 S. Franklin St. | 907/780–5866 | www.alaskanbeer.com | May–Sept., daily 11–6 (20-min tours every half hr); Oct.–Apr., Tues.–Sat. 11–5:30.

Alaskan Hotel Bar.
A sign frequently placed outside this historic bar reads: “Have an Alaskan with an Alaskan at the Alaskan,” referring to the locally made beer, the clientele, and the bar itself. And it’s true that this triple convergence can be found here any night of the week—the bar always has at least one type of Alaskan Brewing Company beer on tap, and the crowd is primarily local, even in summer. On the ground floor of the Alaskan Hotel, this is Juneau’s most historically authentic watering hole, with flocked-velvet walls, antique chandeliers, and vintage frontier-brothel décor. The atmosphere, however, is anything but dated, and the bar’s live music and Thursday open-mic night draw high-spirited, bordering on rowdy, crowds. | 167 S. Franklin St. | 907/586–1000 | www.thealaskanhotel.com.

Flight Deck.
If you’re in Juneau on a sunny summer day and enjoy beer, head to this spot in the Merchants Wharf Mall. The offerings are limited and the décor is basic, but the outdoor patio is a stellar place to watch floatplanes as they take off and land. | Merchants Wharf | 907/723–2586.

Imperial Saloon.
A remodeled former dive where locals like to drink, shoot pool, and meet singles, the Imperial retains mounted moose and bison heads and other vestiges of its divey décor. Other noteworthy features include the original pressed-tin ceiling and what is reputed to be the longest bar in Alaska. | 241 Front St. | 907/586–1960.

Red Dog Saloon.
When the ships are in, the music at Red Dog is live and the crowds even livelier. Most locals avoid it in summer. | 278 S. Franklin St. | 907/463–3658 | www.reddogsaloon.com.

Symphony

Juneau Symphony.
A high-caliber volunteer organization, the symphony performs classical works from October through June in high school auditoriums and local churches. | 522 W. 10th St. | 907/586–4676 | www.juneausymphony.org.

Theater

Perseverance Theatre.
Alaska’s only professional theater company performs classics and new productions from September through May. The company also stages plays in Anchorage each season, and some shows have toured more extensively, among them the all-Tlingit version of Shakespeare’s Macbeth, which traveled to the Smithsonian’s National Museum of the American Indian in Washington, D.C. Perseverance is Juneau’s most high-profile troupe, but also worth checking out are Theatre in the Rough, a fantastic all-volunteer theater troupe that’s been staging Shakespearian works and other classics twice a year since 1991, and two opera companies, Juneau Lyric Opera and Opera to Go. | 914 3rd St. | Douglas | 907/364–2421 | www.perseverancetheatre.org.

Shopping

Art Galleries

Annie Kaill’s Gallery.
This gallery displays a mix of playful and whimsical original prints, pottery, jewelry, and other arts and crafts from Alaska artists. If you’re in town on the first Friday of any month, ask the staff for a map of the First Friday Art Walk; more than a dozen downtown galleries participate in this monthly event by hosting evening exhibit openings, most of which feature the works of local artists. | 244 Front St. | 907/586–2880 | www.anniekaills.com.

Caribou Crossings.
Locally owned and operated, this gallery sells artworks, craft items, and other creations—from sculptures to fossilized ivory bracelets to children’s books—created by Alaskans. | 497 S. Franklin St. | 877/586–5008, 907/586–5008 | www.cariboucrossings.com.

Hummingbird Hollow.
A surprising exception to the cheesy-airport-gift-shop epidemic, Juneau’s airport gift shop, Hummingbird Hollow, sells authentic Native art, including jewelry, baskets, and Eskimo dolls. | 1873 Shell Simmons Dr. | 907/789–4672.

Juneau Artists Gallery.
The cooperatively run gallery, on the first floor of the old Senate Building, sells a mix of watercolors, jewelry, oil and acrylic paintings, etchings, photographs, art glass, ceramics, fiber arts, and pottery from more than 20 local artists. | 175 S. Franklin St. | 907/586–9891 | www.juneauartistsgallery.com.

Mt. Juneau Trading Post.
An Alaska Native owns this crowded shop that specializes in traditional Northwest Coast artworks, from carved silver bracelets to high-end masks. | 151 S. Franklin St. | 907/586–3426 | www.mtjuneautradingpost.com.

Rie Muñoz Gallery.
Rie Muñoz, one of Alaska’s best-known artists, is the creator of a stylized, simple, and colorful design technique that is much copied but rarely equaled. Her gallery is located in Mendenhall Valley, a 10-minute walk from the airport. | 2101 N. Jordan Ave. | 907/789–7449, 800/247–3151 | www.riemunoz.com | Closed Sun. and Mon.

Wm. Spear Design.
Lawyer-turned-artist William Spear produces fun and colorful enameled pins and zipper pulls. His quirky shop is above the local toy store, through a separate entrance. | 174 S. Franklin St. | 907/586–2209 | www.wmspear.com.

Seafood

Taku Store.
At the south end of town near the cruise-ship docks and Mt. Roberts Tramway, Taku Store processes nearly 6 million pounds of fish a year, mostly salmon. TIP The smoked sockeye fillets make excellent gifts. You can view the smoking procedure through large windows, and then purchase the packaged fish in the deli-style gift shop or have some shipped back home. | 550 S. Franklin St. | 907/463–5319, 800/582–5122 | www.takustore.com.

Previous Chapter | Beginning of Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents