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On a first drive around Fairbanks, the city appears to be a sprawling conglomeration of strip malls, chain stores, and other evidence of suburbia (or, as a local writer once put it, “su-brrr-bia”). But look beyond the obvious in the Interior’s biggest town and you’ll discover why thousands insist that this is the best place to live in Alaska—most citing the incredibly tight and supportive community.

The hardy Alaskans who refuse to leave during the cold and dark winters share a strong camaraderie. The fight to stave off cabin fever leads to creative festivals, from winter solstice celebrations to midnight baseball in summer. Quirky is celebrated in Fairbanks. But so is the ability to take care of business, no matter the obstacles (including seriously cold temperatures). It takes a special kind of confidence to live here, and that adds to the town’s attractiveness.

Many old homes and commercial buildings trace their history to the city’s early days, especially in the downtown area, with its narrow, winding streets following the contours of the Chena River. Even if each year brings more chain stores, the beautiful hillsides and river valleys remain. And the farmers’ market here is a stunner. Of course there is Fairbanks’s fall, winter, and spring bonus: being able to see the aurora, or northern lights, an average of 243 nights a year.

These magic lights were a common sight to the Alaska Natives who lived and traveled through Interior Alaska for thousands of years. But outsiders started coming to Fairbanks for the view all because of one guy’s bad day: In 1901 E.T. Barnette, a merchant traveling upstream, was forced to leave the boat with all of his trading goods at a wooded spot in the middle of nowhere along the Chena River because the water was too shallow to pass. While awaiting passage farther east, Barnette’s luck took a turn for the wonderful when an Italian prospector discovered gold 12 miles north of Barnette’s settlement the next summer. The resulting gold rush created customers for his stockpile of goods and led to the birth of Fairbanks, which for a brief time became the largest and wealthiest settlement in Alaska.

The city’s nickname, the Golden Heart, reflects Fairbanks’s gold-rush history and its location: it’s the gateway to the Far North—the Arctic and the Bering Coast—and to Canada’s Yukon Territory. As you walk the streets of Fairbanks today, it takes a good imagination to envision the rough-and-tumble gold-mining camp that first took shape along the Chena River in the early 1900s. Although a few older neighborhoods have weathered log cabins, the rest is a Western hodgepodge that reflects the urge to build whatever one wants, wherever one wants—a trait that has long been a community standard.

The city is making some real efforts to preserve what’s left of its gold-rush past, most notably in the 44-acre Pioneer Park, where dozens of cabins and many other relics were moved out of the path of progress. Downtown Fairbanks began to deteriorate in the 1970s, before and after the boom associated with the building of the Trans-Alaska Pipeline. But the downward spiral ended long ago and most of downtown has been rebuilt.

One symbol of downtown’s renaissance and a good first stop is the Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitors Center, which debuted in 2008. The pride of downtown, the center represents a very successful collaboration between Explore Fairbanks (run by the city’s convention and visitors bureau), the Alaska Public Lands Information Center, and the Tanana Chiefs Conference, whose goals include preserving local languages, knowledge, and customs, and promoting pride among Native youth. In addition to an impressive museum that will introduce you to the region’s wonders, you’ll find everything you need to plan the rest of your touring. We also recommend a trip the University of Alaska Museum of the North, whose building is full of soothing, swooping lines that evoke glaciers, mountains, and sea life. The museum’s collection of material about Alaska is among the state’s best.

Getting Here and Around

Air Travel

Delta offers seasonal nonstop service between Fairbanks and the Lower 48. Alaska Airlines and Ravn Alaska fly the Anchorage–Fairbanks route. Hotel shuttles, rental cars, and taxis are available at the Fairbanks airport.

Bus Travel

The Alaska Park Connection serves Seward, Anchorage, and Denali National Park with shuttles from mid-May to mid-September. Alaska/Yukon Trails connects Fairbanks, Denali, Anchorage, Talkeetna, Whitehorse, and Dawson City. Denali Overland Transportation Company serves Anchorage, Talkeetna, and Denali National Park with charter bus and van service. Hotels run shuttle buses to and from the airport, but once in town you’ll find getting around by public transportation can be cumbersome.

Car Travel

Fairbanks is at the junction of three major highways, the Parks, Steese, and Richardson. The town is too spread out for walking, and though you can get around by taxi, the cost of cabs will add up fast. Save yourself frustration and rent a car.

Train Travel

Between late May and early September, Alaska Railroad’s daily passenger service connects Seward, Anchorage, and Fairbanks, with stops at Talkeetna and Denali National Park and Preserve. Standard trains have dining, lounge, and dome cars, as well as an outdoor viewing platform. Holland America and Princess offer luxurious travel packages as well.

Essentials

Airline Contacts
Alaska Airlines. | 800/252–7522 | www.alaskaair.com.
Ravn Alaska. | 907/266–8394, 800/866–8394 | www.flyravn.com.

City Bus
Fairbanks MACS Bus System. | 907/459–1011 | www.co.fairbanks.ak.us/transportation | $1.50 a ride, $3 a day.

Bus Contacts
Alaska/Yukon Trails. | 800/770–7275, 907/479–2277 | www.alaskashuttle.com.
Alaska Park Connection. | 907/245–0200, 800/266–8625 | www.alaskacoach.com.
Denali Overland Transportation Company. | 907/733–2384 | www.denalioverland.com.

Rail Contacts
Alaska Railroad. | 907/265–2494, 800/544–0552 | www.alaskarailroad.com.
Gray Line of Alaska. | 888/425–1737 | www.graylinealaska.com.
Princess Tours. | 800/426–0500 | www.princesslodges.com.

Rental Cars
Budget Rent-A-Car. | 907/474–0855, 800/474–0855 | www.budget.com.
Dollar Rent A Car. | 907/451–4360, 800/800–4000 | www.dollar.com.
Hertz. | 907/452–4444, 800/654–3131 | www.hertz.com.

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Tours

Gray Line of Alaska.
The company conducts scenic and informative tours of the Fairbanks area. An eight-hour sightseeing package includes a stern-wheeler cruise and tour of a historic gold field operation, and a popular multiday package features a dinner cruise of a different sort—a meal at a log-cabin restaurant followed by a float on the Chena River. | 888/425–1737 | www.graylinealaska.com | From $69.

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Exploring

Top Attractions

Fairbanks Ice Museum.
Ice has never been so cool—this museum presents the works of local artists who turn giant blocks of ice into intricate sculptures. With about 100 pieces on display, including the Ice Showcase, a large glass-wall display that’s kept a consistent 20°F, there’s something to dazzle just about everyone. The large-screen film Freeze Frame illustrates ice-scuplting techniques, and each night at 8 pm, the museum, inside the historic Lacey Street Theater, screens a film about the aurora borealis. | 500 2nd Ave., Downtown | 907/451–8222 | www.icemuseum.com | $15 | May–mid-Sept., daily 10–9.

Fodor’s Choice | “Fountainhead” Antique Automobile Museum.
Automobiles from 1898 to 1938 gleam on display at this world-class attraction at the Wedgewood Resort. Obscure makes—Buckmobiles, Packards, and Hudsons among them—compete for attention with more familiar specimens from Ford, Cadillac, and Chrysler. The museum’s holdings include the first car ever made in Alaska, built in Skagway out of sheet metal and old boat parts, all to impress a girl (didn’t work). Alongside the cars, all but three of them in running condition, are historical photographs and exhibits of vintage clothing that illustrate the evolution of style, especially for women. Among the world’s finest auto museums, Fountainhead provides a fascinating survey of history, design, culture, and, of course, cars. TIP Museum manager Willy Vinton handpicks the cars himself. He’ll gladly give you a private guided tour ($28), or you can take the free audio one. | 212 Wedgewood Dr. | 907/450–2100 | www.fountainheadmuseum.com | $10 ($5 for guests of Wedgewood Resort, Sophie Station Suites, or Bridgewater Hotel) | Mid-May–mid-Sept., Sun.–Thurs. 11–9, Fri. and Sat. 11–6; mid-Sept.–mid-May, Sun. noon–6.

Georgeson Botanical Garden.
When most people think of Alaska’s vegetation, they conjure up images of flat, treeless tundra, so the variety of native and cultivated flowers on exhibit here is often unexpected. The garden, 4 miles west of downtown, is part of the University of Alaska Fairbanks. A major focus of research is Interior Alaska’s unique, short, but intense midnight-sun growing season, and the results are spectacular. The nonstop daylight brings out rich and vibrant colors and—to the delight of locals and visitors—amazing, they-sure-don’t-grow-them-that-big-in-the-Lower-48 vegetable specimens. TIP The best time to visit is from July to early September (or the first frost, whichever comes first). | University of Alaska Fairbanks,117 W. Tanana Dr. | West end of campus, 4 miles west of downtown | 907/474–7222 | www.georgesonbg.org | $5 | May–Sept., daily 8–8.

FAMILY | Large Animal Research Station.
On the fringes of the University of Alaska campus is a 134-acre home to about 50 musk ox, 45 caribou, and 40 domestic reindeer. The last two are actually the same animal from most standpoints; they can interbreed, and the main difference comes down to the fact that reindeer, having been domesticated, are lazier and fatter than caribou. Resident and visiting scientists study these large ungulates to better understand their physiologies and how they adapt to Arctic conditions. The station also serves as a valuable outreach program. Most people have little chance to see these animals in their natural habitats, especially the musk ox. Once nearly eradicated from Alaska, these shaggy, prehistoric-looking beasts are marvels of adaptive physiques and behaviors. Their qiviut, the delicate musk ox undercoat of hair that is so soft it makes cashmere feel like steel wool, is combed out (without harming the animals) and made into yarn for scarves, hats, and gloves. The station has this unprocessed wool and yarn for sale to help fund the care of the animals. On tours you visit the pens for a close-up look at the animals and their young, while learning about the biology and ecology of the animals from a naturalist. The tours are a very good deal, and the best way to learn about the animals, but you can also just come by any time of day, and usually see musk ox from the parking lot; they sometimes come quite close to the fence. | 2220 Yankovich Rd., off Ballaine Rd., behind University of Alaska Fairbanks | 907/474–5724 for tour info | www.lars.uaf.edu | Grounds free, tours $10 | Grounds June–Aug., daily 9:30–4:30; 45-min tours Tues.–Sat. at 10, noon, and 2.

Fodor’s Choice | Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitors Center.
At this multifaceted facility you can plan your Fairbanks visit—and start it, too. As with visitor centers elsewhere you can get help with everything from taking in local attractions to negotiating a backcountry adventure. But the highlights here are the museum-quality displays about Interior Alaska. A walk-through exhibit re-creates a fish camp—imagine living in a tent this small for long stretches—and you can walk through a full-size public-use cabin similar to ones you can rent on your own. TIP Be sure to peer out the cabin window: an artful rendition of the Northern Lights awaits. Native artists frequently sell jewelry and other wares at the center; in addition to making a unique purchase you can chat with them about growing up in the villages or, in some cases, at fish camps such as the one the exhibit depicts. Free films screen here, there’s free Wi-Fi access, and the bookstore sells Alaska-related books and gifts. Named for a Tanana leader who dedicated his life to building bridges between Native and non-Native cultures, the center hosts summer programs showcasing Alaska Native art, music, storytelling, and dance.

On the edge of the center’s parking lot and great photo op is Antler Arch. Made from more than 100 moose and caribou antlers, it serves as a gateway to the bike and walking path along the Chena River. | 101 Dunkel St. | 907/459–3700 | www.morristhompsoncenter.org | Free | Summer, daily 8 am–9 pm; winter, daily 8–5.

FAMILY | Pioneer Park.
The 44-acre park is along the Chena River near downtown Fairbanks, and has several museums, an art gallery, theater, civic center, Native village, large children’s playground, miniature-golf course, antique merry-go-round, and restaurants. Owned and operated by the county, the park also has a re-created gold-rush town with historic buildings saved from urban renewal, log-cabin gift shops, and Mining Valley, an outdoor museum of mining artifacts surrounding an indoor-outdoor Alaska Salmon Bake restaurant. The 227-foot stern-wheeler Nenana is the second-largest wooden vessel in existence and a national historic landmark. A diorama inside the stern-wheeler details the course the riverboat took on the Yukon and Tanana rivers around the turn of the 20th century. The Crooked Creek and Whiskey Island Railroad, a narrow-gauge train, circles the park. This is one of the best places in Fairbanks to bring kids and let them run off some energy. TIP No-frills (dry) RV camping is available in the parking lot for $15 a night. Register at the riverboat. No reservation is necessary. | 2300 Airport Way, at Peger Rd. | 907/459–1087 | www.co.fairbanks.ak.us/pioneerpark | Park free; fees for some attractions | Park 24 hrs; museum and shops late May–early Sept., daily noon–8.

Fodor’s Choice | University of Alaska Museum of the North.
With sweeping exterior curves and graceful lines that evoke glaciers, mountains, and the fluke of a diving whale, this don’t-miss museum has some of Alaska’s most distinctive architecture. Inside, two-story viewing windows look out on the Alaska Range and the Tanana Valley. Otto, the 8-foot 9-inch brown bear specimen, greets visitors to the entrance of the Gallery of Alaska, also home to Blue Babe, a mummified steppe bison that lived 36,000 years ago during the Pleistocene epoch. “Please touch” items include the molars of a mammoth and a mastodon, animal pelts, replica petroglyphs, and a massive quartz crystal found in Alaska’s Brooks Range. The gallery also contains dioramas showing the state’s animals and how they interact, and the fantastic collection of Native clothes, tools, and boats provide insights into the ways that different groups came to terms with climatic extremes.

Another highlight of a museum visit is the Rose Berry Alaska Art Gallery, representing 2,000 years of Alaska’s art, from ancient to modern. Also worth checking out is In the Place Where You Go to Listen, a mesmerizing, ever-changing light and sound installation composed by the real-time movements of the sun, moon, aurora, and seismic activity. TIP The gift shop’s Alaskana selection is among the best in town. | University of Alaska Fairbanks,907 Yukon Dr. | 907/474–7505 | www.uaf.edu/museum | $12; extra fee for 30-min summer auditorium shows | June–Aug., daily 9–7; Sept.–May, Mon.–Sat. 9–5.

Worth Noting

Alaska Range Overlook.
Much of the north side of the Alaska Range is visible from this overlook, a favorite spot for time-lapse photography of the midwinter sun just peeking over the southern horizon on a low arc. The three major peaks, called the Three Sisters, are nearly always distinguishable on a clear day. From your left are Mt. Hayes, 13,832 feet; Mt. Hess, 11,940 feet; and Mt. Deborah, 12,339 feet. Much farther to the right, toward the southwest, hulks Mt. McKinley, the highest peak in North America. On some seemingly clear days it’s not visible at all. At other times the base is easy to see but the peak is lost in cloud cover. TIP Look for the parking area just east of University of Alaska Museum. | Yukon Dr., West Ridge, University of Alaska Fairbanks campus.

FAMILY | Creamer’s Field Migratory Waterfowl Refuge.
Thousands of migrating ducks, geese, and sandhill cranes stop here in spring as they head north to nesting grounds, and in late summer as they head south before the cold hits. It’s amazing to watch them gather in huge flocks, with constant takeoffs and landings, yet no bird ever running into another. This is also a great place to view songbirds and moose. Five miles of nature trails, open year-round, lead through fields, forest, and wetlands. Don’t miss the daily one- to two-hour naturalist walks. Now on the National Register of Historic Places, Creamer’s Dairy was the northernmost dairy in North America from 1910 to 1966. The farmhouse is an interpretive center and gift shop open daily from 9:30 am to 5 pm between mid-May and mid-September, and Saturday from noon to 4 the rest of the year. | 1300 College Rd. | 907/459–7307, 907/452–5162 | www.creamersfield.org | Walks June–Aug., Mon., Tues., Thurs., and Fri. at 10 am, Wed. at 10 and 7, and by appointment.

Winter in Fairbanks

The temperature gets down to –40°F every winter in Fairbanks, but school is almost never canceled, no matter how cold it gets. In recent years, in fact, the only times schools have closed were when rare winter warm spells created icy conditions on the roads that made it too hazardous for bus travel. Young Alaskans are so hardy that outdoor recess takes place down to –20°F.

The weather is a great unifying factor among Fairbanks residents. Winter conditions freeze the pipes of university presidents as well as laborers. After a night of 40 below it’s common to see cars bumping along as if the tires were flat; the bottoms of the tires freeze flat, and it takes a quarter mile or so before they warm up and return to round. Almost every car in Fairbanks has an electric plug hanging out front between the headlights. This is for a heater that prevents the car’s engine block from getting so cold the engine won’t start.

Golden Heart Plaza.
This riverside park is the hub of downtown celebrations, including free evening concerts. The plaza is dominated by the towering statue of the Unknown First Family, encircled by plaques containing the names of 4,500 local families who contributed to the building of the plaza. | 1st Ave. east of Cushman St.

Off the Beaten Path: Trans-Alaska Pipeline.
Just north of Fairbanks you can see and touch the famous Trans-Alaska Pipeline. This 48-inch-diameter pipe travels 800 miles from the oil fields on the North Slope of the Brooks Range over three mountain ranges and over more than 500 rivers and streams to the terminal in Valdez. There the crude oil is pumped onto tanker ships and transported to oil refineries in the Lower 48 states. Since the pipeline began operations in 1977, more than 16½ billion barrels of North Slope crude have been pumped. Currently the pipe is carrying about 540,000 barrels per day (a number that’s decreasing about 5 percent each year). TIP The parking lot is right off the Steese Highway. | Mile 8.4, Steese Hwy.

Outdoor Activities and Guided Tours

Adventure Tours

Northern Alaska Tour Company.
The company leads half- and full-day excursions year-round to the Arctic Circle and the Yukon River and (in summer) two- and three-day fly-drive tours to Prudhoe Bay, Barrow, and the Brooks Range. Aurora-watching trips take place in winter. | 907/474–8600, 800/474–1986 | www.northernalaska.com.

Baseball

Alaska Goldpanners.
Scores of baseball players, including Tom Seaver, Dave Winfield, and Jason Giambi, have passed through Fairbanks on their way to the major leagues. The Interior is home to the Alaska Goldpanners, a member of the Alaska Baseball League, a string of amateur baseball organizations throughout the state. Players are recruited from college teams nationwide, and the season, from mid-June to late July, generates top-caliber competition. Home games are played at Growden Field, along Lower 2nd Avenue, at Wilbur Street, not far from Pioneer Park. The baseball park hosts the W. G. & Eddie Stroecker Midnight Sun Baseball Game, a Fairbanks tradition (2015 is the 110th year) in which the Goldpanners play baseball at midnight of the summer solstice without benefit of artificial lights. This is thrilling (and possibly chilly) to watch on a clear, sunny night when the daylight never ends. | 907/451–0095 | www.goldpanners.com.

Biking

Bicyclists in Fairbanks use the paved paths from the University of Alaska campus around Farmers Loop to the Steese Highway. Another path follows Geist and Chena Pump roads into downtown Fairbanks. A shorter, less strenuous route is the bike path between downtown and Pioneer Park along the south side of the Chena River. Maps showing all the bike paths are available at Explore Fairbanks. Mountain bikers can test their skills in summer on the ski trails of the University of Alaska Fairbanks and the Birch Hill Recreation Area or on many of the trails and dirt roads around Fairbanks.

Alaska Public Lands Information Center.
Stop by the center for mountain-biking information. | 101 Dunkel St., #110 | 907/459–3730 | www.alaskacenters.gov.

Boating

For relaxing boating in or near Fairbanks, use Chena River access points at Nordale Road east of the city, at the Cushman and Wendell Street bridges near downtown, in Pioneer Park above the Peger River Bridge, at the state campground, and at the University Avenue Bridge.

The Tanana River, with a current that is fast and often shallow, is ideally suited for riverboats. On this river and others in the Yukon River drainage, Alaskans use long, wide, flat-bottom boats powered by one or two large outboard engines. The boats include a lift to raise the engine a few inches, allowing passage through the shallows; lately, it’s more common just to get a jet boat, which doesn’t have a propeller, and so can go into much shallower waters. Arrangements for riverboat charters can be made in almost any river community. Ask at Explore Fairbanks, in the Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitors Center.

Tours and Outfitters

Fodor’s Choice | Alaska Outdoor Rentals and Guides.
This outfit rents gear and arranges pick-ups and drop-offs for the Class I waters of the lower Chena River (the only real challenge for canoeists on the lower river is watching out for powerboats), as well as other local rivers. The company offers private paddling lessons, from basics to self- and assisted-rescue techniques. | Pioneer Park Boat Dock,1101 Peger Rd., along Chena River | 907/457–2453 | www.2paddle1.com | From $41 for 3-hr canoe rental.

Fodor’s Choice | Riverboat Discovery.
The city’s riverboat history and the Interior’s cultural heritage are relived each summer aboard the Riverboat Discovery, a three-hour narrated trip by stern-wheeler along the Chena and Tanana rivers to a rustic Native village on the Tanana. The cruise provides a glimpse of the lifestyle of the dog mushers, subsistence fishermen, traders, and Native Alaskans who populate the Yukon River drainage. Sights along the way include operating fish wheels, a bush airfield, floatplanes, a smokehouse and cache, log cabins, and dog kennels once tended by the late Susan Butcher, the first person to win the Iditarod four times. The Binkley family, with four generations of river pilots, has run the great rivers of the north for more than a century. | 1975 Discovery Dr. | 907/479–6673, 866/479–6673 | www.riverboatdiscovery.com | $59.95 | Mid-May–mid-Sept., daily at 9 and 2.

Fodor’s Choice | Running Reindeer Ranch.
After just a few minutes communing with the ranch’s herd of reindeer, it’s hard not to get a little giggly. Before long it seems like second nature being surrounded by the herd, and by the time you’ve exhausted your camera snapping photos, that’s when the fun begins. You just settle into listening to owner Jane Atkinson, whose love for the natural world, animals she cares for, and indeed all of Alaska’s wildlife, is infectious. The conversation flows and, in no time, it feels like you’ve made a new friend, and you start wondering if a life without a herd of reindeer makes any sense. TIP It’s wise to make an appointment, though it’s not always necessary. This experience is best for children age 12 and older—younger kids will probably lose interest quickly. | Goldstream Rd., near Ivans Alley | 907/455–4998 | www.runningreindeer.com | $50 per guest (2-guest min.) | By appointment only.

Sternwheeler Tanana Chief.
The stern-wheeler sails on nightly dinner cruises (6:30 pm) on the Chena River aboard the Tanana Chief, a replica of the riverboats that once plied Interior rivers. Daytime sightseeing and other cruises also take place. | 1020 Hoselton Rd. | 907/450–0768, 888/393–6224 | www.tananachiefak.com | Dinner cruise $54.95; day cruises $24.95 (no food).

Curling

Hundreds of Fairbanksans participate each year in curling, a game in which people with brooms play a giant version of shuffleboard on ice. Curlers have an almost fanatical devotion to their sport, and they’re eager to explain its finer points to the uninitiated.

Fairbanks Curling Club.
The club hosts an annual Yukon Title bonspiel (match) on the first weekend of November and an international bonspiel on the first weekend of April. The club season runs from October to early April. TIP Admission is free for those who want to watch a curling match or practice from the heated viewing area of the curling club arena. | 1962 2nd Ave. | 907/452–2875 | www.curlfairbanks.org.

Dog Mushing

Throughout Alaska, sprint races, freight hauling, and long-distance endurance runs are held throughout the winter, with the majority running in late February and March, when longer days afford more enjoyment of the remaining winter snow. Men and women often compete in the same classes in the major races. For children, various racing classes are based on age, starting with the one-dog category for the youngest. The Interior sees a constant string of sled-dog races from November to March, culminating in the North American Open Sled-Dog Championship, which attracts international competitors.

Alaska Dog Mushers Association.
The association, one of the oldest organizations of its kind in Alaska, holds many races at its Jeff Studdert Sled Dog Racegrounds. | 925 Farmers Loop Rd., Mile 4 | 907/457–6874 | www.sleddog.org.

Paws for Adventure Sled Dog Tours.
Paws offers everything from a quick ride to mushing immersion courses. Experience the joys of mushing—and snap plenty of photos—on a one-hour ride. Learn how to drive a team at the three-hour mushing school. The three-day trip includes mushing school plus overnight mushing and camping. | George Rd., on A Taste of Alaska Lodge property | 907/378–3630 | www.pawsforadventure.com | From $100 | Oct.–Apr., weather permitting.

Sun Dog Express Dog Sled Tours.
If you want to experience dog mushing for yourself, this outfit conducts demonstrations, rides, tours, and schools. | 1540 Hayes St. | 907/479–6983 | www.mosquitonet.com/~sleddog | From $60.

Yukon Quest International Sled-Dog Race.
This endurance race held in February covers more than 1,000 miles between Fairbanks and Whitehorse, Yukon Territory, via Dawson and the Yukon River. Considered much tougher and, among mushers, more prestigious than the more famous Iditarod, the Quest goes through more remote lands, with fewer checkpoints. The starting point alternates between the two cities each year (Fairbanks gets even-numbered years). Their visitor centers have more information, as does the quest’s Fairbanks office. | Fairbanks Yukon Quest office,550 1st Ave. | 907/452–7954 | www.yukonquest.com.

Celestial Rays of Light: Aurora Borealis

The light show often begins simply, as a pale yellow-green luminous band that arches across Alaska’s night sky. Sometimes the band will quickly fade and disappear. Other nights, however, it may begin to waver, flicker, and pulsate. Or the quiescent band may explode and fill the sky with curtains of celestial light that ripple wildly above the northern landscape. Growing more intense, these dancing lights take on other colors: pink, red, blue, or purple. At times they appear to be heavenly flames, leaping across the sky, or perhaps they’re exploding fireworks, or cannon fire.

Where to See Them

The Fairbanks area is one of the best places in the world to see the aurora borealis—commonly called the northern lights. Here they may appear more than 200 nights per year; they’re much less common in Anchorage, partly because of urban glare.

As you watch these dazzling lights swirling from horizon to horizon, it is easy to imagine why many Northern cultures, including Alaska’s Native peoples, created myths to explain auroral displays. What start out as patches, arcs, or bands can be magically transformed into vaporous, humanlike figures. Some of Alaska’s Native groups have traditionally believed the lights to be spirits of their ancestors. According to one belief, the spirits are celebrating with dance and drumming; another says they’re playing games. Yet another tradition says the lights are torches, carried by spirits who lead the souls of recently deceased people to life in the afterworld.

Where Do They Come From?

During Alaska’s gold-rush era some non-Native stampeders supposed the aurora to be reflections of ore deposits. Even renowned wilderness explorer John Muir allowed the northern lights to spark his imagination. In 1890, Muir once stayed up all night to watch a gigantic, glowing auroral bridge and bands of “restless electric auroral fairies” who danced to music “too fine for mortal ears.”

Scientists have a more technical explanation for these heavenly apparitions. The aurora borealis is an atmospheric phenomenon that’s tied to explosive events on the sun’s surface, known as solar flares. Those flares produce a stream of charged particles, the “solar wind,” which shoots off into space. When such a wind intersects with Earth’s magnetic field, most of the particles are deflected; some, however, are sent into the upper atmosphere, where they collide with gas molecules such as nitrogen and oxygen. The resulting reactions produce glowing colors. The aurora is most commonly a pale green, but its borders are sometimes tinged with pink, purple, or blue. Especially rare is the all-red aurora, which appears when charged solar particles collide with oxygen molecules from 50 to 200 miles above Earth’s surface.

TIP Alaska’s long hours of daylight hide the aurora in summer, so the best viewing is from September through March. Scientists at the University of Alaska Geophysical Institute give a daily forecast from late fall to spring of when the lights will be the most intense at www.gi.alaska.edu/auroraforecast.

Seeing the Northern Lights

Aurora Borealis Lodge.
This lodge on Cleary Summit that has big picture windows conducts late-night viewing tours from late August to April to see the northern lights sky. The tour fee—from $75 to $85—depending on your Fairbanks pickup point, includes hot drinks and transportation. Visitors driving themselves pay $25. You can extend your northern lights viewing pleasure by spending the night. Each of the four spacious rooms (starting at $199 for two people) in the two-story lodge building has large, north-facing windows, a private bath, and a kitchen. The Logan Chalet ($350 rate for one to four people), a standalone house, holds up to six people. Both accommodations have free Wi-Fi and offer discounts for stays of three or more days. | Mile 20.5, Steese Hwy., Cleary Summit | 907/389–2812 | www.auroracabin.com | Closed mid-Apr.–mid-Aug.

Chena Hot Springs Resort.
About 62 mles northeast of Fairbanks, the Chena Hot Springs Resort offers guests winter Sno-Cat rides to a yurt with a 360-degree vista of nothing but wilderness—and a good chance of viewing northern lights. | End of Chena Hot Springs Rd. (Mile 56.5) | Chena Hot Springs | 907/451–8104 | www.chenahotsprings.com.

Mount Aurora Skiland.
Visitors fill the two warm mountaintop lodges at Mount Aurora after 10 pm on winter nights. Images from an aurora Web cam are shown on a large-screen TV. The admission fee includes hot drinks. | Cleary Summit, Mile 20.5, Steese Hwy. | 907/389–2314 | www.skiland.org | $30 | Late Nov.–mid-Apr.

Northern Alaska Tour Company.
The company offers single and multiday winter aurora tours going north to the Arctic Circle and the Brooks Range. | 907/474–8600, 800/474–1986 | www.northernalaska.com.

Fishing

Although a few fish can be caught right in town from the Chena River, the best thing for an avid fishermen to do is hop on a plane or riverboat to get to the best areas for angling. Fishing trips include air charters to Lake Minchumina (an hour’s flight from Fairbanks), known for good pike fishing and a rare view of the north sides of Mt. McKinley and Mt. Foraker. Another charter trip by riverboat or floatplane will take you pike fishing in the Minto Flats, west of Fairbanks off the Tanana River, where the mouth of the Chatanika River spreads through miles of marsh and sloughs.

Salmon run up the Tanana River most of the summer, but they’re not usually caught on hook-and-line gear. Residents take them from the river with gill nets and fish wheels, using special commercial and subsistence permits. Check the “Outdoors” section in the Friday Fairbanks Daily News–Miner (or online) for weekly updates on fishing in the Interior. TIP You can purchase fishing licenses ($20 and up for nonresidents) good for one day or longer at many sporting-goods stores and online at www.admin.adfg.state.ak.us/license.

Arctic Grayling Guide Service.
From May to October, Arctic Grayling conducts guided and unguided fishing trips via jet boat to fishing spots around the Fairbanks area for grayling and salmon. Cabins are available. The company, a good bet for the serious angler, has been around forever. | 907/479–0479, 907/322–8004 | www.wildernessfishing.com.

Gold Panning

Alaskan Prospectors.
The gold information center for Interior Alaska, this is the oldest mining and prospecting supply store in the state. Stop here for gold pans and books or videos, or to visit the rocks and minerals museum. Employees have valuable advice for the neophyte gold bug. | 504 College Rd. | 907/452–7398 | Closed Sun.

Gold Dredge 8.
From the comfort of a narrow-gauge railroad, Gold Dredge 8 offers a two-hour tour of a seasonal mining operation. Miners demonstrate classic and modern techniques, after which visitors get to try their luck panning for gold. Many historic elements from the old El Dorado Gold Mine have been transported here, so a tour provides a fairly complete look at how Fairbanks got rich. | 1803 Old Steese Hwy. N | 907/479–6673, 866/479–6673 | www.golddredge8.com | $39.95 | Mid-May–mid-Sept., tours daily at 10:30 and 1:45.

Golf

Chena Bend Golf Course.
Several holes meander alongside the Chena River at this well-maintained army course open to civilians. The 18-hole spread, at Ft. Wainwright, also has a restaurant and a pro shop. Civilians can book tee times three days in advance of play. The course entrance is between the east end of the fort’s airfield and the river. | Bldg. 2092 | Fort Wainwright | 907/353–6223 | www.ftwainwrightfmwr.com | $42 | 18 holes, 6475 yards, par 72.

Fairbanks Golf Course.
The 9-hole course here straddles Farmers Loop just north of the university. Summertime golf with a 3 am tee time is considered normal here. (That’ll give you something to brag about at home.) Watch for ravens stealing balls, though. | 1735 Farmers Loop Rd. | 907/479–6555 | www.fairbanksgolfcourse.com | $22 for 9 holes, $33 for 18 holes | 9 holes, par 36.

North Star Golf Club.
Along with their scores, golfers at the northernmost course in the United States are encouraged to tally up the wildlife they spot—foxes, ravens, moose are all quite likely. If a raven or a fox steals the ball, the rules at the 18-hole course permit replacement without penalty. | 330 Golf Club Dr., off Old Steese Hwy. | 907/457–4653 | www.northstargolf.com | $35 to golf; $89 includes balls, tees, and cart and club rental | 18 holes, 6337 yards, par 72.

Hiking

Creamer’s Field Migratory Waterfowl Refuge has three nature trails within its 1,800 acres on the edge of Fairbanks. The longest trail is 2 miles, and one is wheelchair accessible.

Riverboat Racing

Fairbanks Outboard Association.
A summer highlight is riverboat racing sanctioned by the Fairbanks Outboard Association. These specially built 24-foot racing boats are powered by 50-horsepower engines and reach speeds of 75 mph. Weekend races in summer and fall begin and end either at the Chena Pump Campgrounds or at Pike’s Landing, just off Airport Way near Fairbanks International Airport. | www.yukon800.com.

Yukon 800.
The biggest riverboat-racing event of the season, in late June, is the Yukon 800 Marathon, a two-day, 800-mile race between Fairbanks and Galena by way of the Chena, Tanana, and Yukon rivers. | www.yukon800.com.

Roland Lord Memorial Race.
This riverboat race from Fairbanks to Nenana and back takes place in early August.

Skiing

Cross-Country

The Interior has some of the best weather and terrain in the nation for cross-country skiing, especially in late fall and early spring. Among the developed trails in the Fairbanks area, the ones at the Birch Hill Recreation Area, on the city’s north side, and at the University of Alaska Fairbanks are lighted to extend their use into winter nights. Cross-country ski racing is a staple at several courses on winter weekends. The season stretches from October to late March or early April. Other developed trails can be found at Chena Hot Springs Resort, White Mountains National Recreation Area, the Chena Lakes Recreation Area, and the Two Rivers Recreation Area.

Alaska Public Lands Information Center.
Fairbanks is laced with trails—you could ski all winter and never see the same thing twice. The center provides cross-country information. | 907/459–3730.

Downhill

Birch Hill.
In Ft. Wainwright, Birch Hill has a chairlift, beginner and intermediate runs, and a terrain park; it’s open on Friday and weekends from November through March. | 907/353–7053.

Moose Mountain.
This mountain, off Murphy Dome Road, has 42 runs from two summits for intermediate to advanced skiers, all accessed by a bus lift system. It’s open November through March on weekends, plus school and government holidays. | 907/459–8132 | www.shredthemoose.com.

Mt. Aurora Skiland.
On the Steese Highway about 20 miles from Fairbanks at Cleary Summit, Mt. Aurora has a chairlift, rentals, more than 20 runs ranked from beginner to expert, and a 1,100-foot vertical drop. It’s open on weekends from December to mid-April, if there’s enough snow. TIP This is a good spot for aurora viewing. | 907/456–7669, 907/389–2314 for office | www.skiland.org.

Where to Eat

Alaska Coffee Roasting Company.
CAFÉ | With its tasty treats and eclectic artwork from around the world, this hangout is so popular that a line often curls out the door. It’s a worthy stop either for a to-go lunch to tote on a hike or a well-made cup of joe and a cookie, a scone, or a muffin to savor inside. (If you dine in, you’ll get an extra side of fascinating eavesdropping thanks to the local university students and their professors.) The kitchen also serves up quiche and sandwiches, along with flatbreads cooked in a wood-burning oven. Desserts include tiramisù and cheesecake. The “roasting” in the shop name isn’t just for looks—all the beans brewed here are roasted here. TIP You can get a few hours of free Wi-Fi use with a purchase. Ask the cashier for a code. | Average main: $8 | 4001 Geist Rd., Suite 2, University West | 907/457–5282 | www.alaskacoffeeroasting.com.

Alaska Salmon Bake.
SEAFOOD | Salmon cooked over an open fire with a sauce of lemon and brown sugar is a favorite at this indoor-outdoor restaurant in Pioneer Park’s Mining Valley. Bering Sea cod, prime rib, a salad bar, beverages, and dessert are also included at the all-you-can-eat dinner. Beer and wine cost extra. | Average main: $32 | Airport Way and Peger Rd., Pioneer Park | 907/452–7274, 800/354–7274 | www.akvisit.com/salmon.html | Closed mid-Sept.–mid-May. No lunch.

Cookie Jar.
AMERICAN | It’s hard to believe the forever-in-motion staffers at the Cookie Jar can squeeze in the time to provide such friendly service, but they do. The namesake cookie jars decorate some of the shelves, but what really grabs attention here are the cookies themselves in their display cases—and the size of the meals. Everything tastes even better than it looks. One breakfast item not to miss: French toast made from sliced cinnamon rolls (no joke). If you’re not in breakfast-all-day mode, worry not: the massive menu includes everything from salads to coq au vin. TIP To avoid a long wait, come on a weekday. For weekend breakfasts, allow plenty of extra time. | Average main: $15 | 1006 Cadillac Ct., Aurora | Take Danby St. off the Johansen Expressway | 907/479–8319 | www.cookiejarfairbanks.com.

Gambardella’s Pasta Bella.
ITALIAN | Locals crowd into this family-run Italian restaurant that has earned a reputation as one of the best in town. The menu includes salads, pasta, pizza, vegetarian entrées, and submarine sandwiches on homemade bread. The house specialties are lasagna, which the Seattle Times described as “the mother of all lasagnas,” and the tiramisù. The two-story restaurant has outdoor seating on a balcony and at street level. It feels as close to a romantic back-alley restaurant in Italy as you can get in Interior Alaska. | Average main: $25 | 706 2nd Ave., Downtown | 907/457–4992 | www.gambardellas.com | No lunch Sun..

Geraldo’s.
ITALIAN | The sign outside will likely contain a plug for the virtues of garlic. Rightly so, for no one in Fairbanks puts fresh chopped garlic to better use than Geraldo’s, which has gourmet pizza, seafood, pasta, and veal dishes. A painting of Don Corleone hangs on the wall, and Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin provide background music for this cozy and often crowded spot. | Average main: $17 | 701 College Rd., Lemeta | 907/452–2299.

Ivory Jack’s.
AMERICAN | Jack “Ivory” O’Brien used to deal Alaskan ivory and whalebone out of this open and airy bar-restaurant tucked into the gold-rich hills of the Goldstream Valley on the outskirts of Fairbanks. Crab-stuffed mushrooms are a specialty. You can choose from a dozen and a half other appetizers, followed by a sandwich, burger, or a pizza or entrées such as chicken Dijon and Alaskan king crab. | Average main: $25 | 2581 Goldstream Rd., Goldstream | 907/455–6665 | www.ivoryjacksrestaurant.com.

Lavelle’s Bistro.
AMERICAN | With offerings ranging from rack of lamb and lobster cakes to halibut and New York steaks, this impressive restaurant has won a loyal local following. Though many of the entrées favor meat and fish, there are plenty of vegetarian options as well, including lasagna, dinner-worthy salads, and one that’s sure to become a favorite: crispy Parmesan polenta cakes. Lavelle’s serves more than 30 wines by the glass from its 3,000-bottle cellar and holds regular wine tastings and other events that lend the restaurant an air of sophistication far removed from the frontier image cultivated elsewhere in Fairbanks. TIP Locals sometimes dress up to dine here, but no one will mind if you appear in casual attire. | Average main: $30 | SpringHill Suites,575 1st Ave., Downtown | 907/450–0555 | www.lavellesbistro.com | No lunch.

Pike’s Landing.
AMERICAN | As soon as the sun comes out—a frequent event during Fairbanks summers—the huge outside deck at Pike’s overlooking the Chena River starts to fill up. The seats in the dining room of the extended log-cabin building are perfect for cooler weather, but the deck is the true draw here. The menu is pretty straightforward: salads, sandwiches, burgers, and seafood. If you’re feeling hungry, the delicious fried chicken and waffles will fill you right up. The restaurant has a full bar. | Average main: $23 | 4438 Airport Way | 907/479–6500 | www.pikes-landing.com.

Pita Place.
MIDDLE EASTERN | Fairbanksans have been going mad for Nadav Weiss’s falafel ever since the he started serving them at the Tanana Valley Farmer’s Market in 2007, and at this summer-only stand just a few blocks away the love continues. Before the season begins, rumors start swirling about when he’ll open and, as soon as the windows go up, the lines form. Pair lunch at the stand with a visit to the farmers’ market, at 2600 College Road. There’s plenty of outdoor seating at Pita Place, and it’s comfy too. TIP The eatery closes at 7 pm, and hours vary, so it’s wise to call before coming. | Average main: $8 | 3300 College Rd. | 907/687–2456 | No dinner.

Pump House Restaurant.
AMERICAN | Alongside the Chena River, this pricey mining-pump-station-turned-restaurant claims to the northernmost oyster bar in the world. Other specialties include Alaskan wild game and seafood chowder. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the circa-1930s pump house contains antiques up to 150 years old. The furnishings and floor are made of rich, polished wood, the pool table dates from 1898, and an Alaskan grizzly bear in a glass case stands sentry next to the hostess station. Wednesday night is karaoke night in the bar. TIP In summer, enjoy the midnight sun on the deck out back by the river. | Average main: $30 | 796 Chena Pump Rd. | 907/479–8452 | www.pumphouse.com | No lunch mid-Sept.–June 1.

Sam’s Sourdough Cafe.
AMERICAN | Although Sam’s serves meals all day, Fairbanksans know it as one of the best breakfast places in town. Sourdough recipes are a kind of minor religion in Alaska, and Sam’s serves an extensive menu of sourdough specialties, including hotcakes and French toast, as well as standard meat-and-eggs options, all at reasonable prices. TIP Though it serves lunch and dinner, Sam’s works best as a breakfast spot. On weekends get here early or be prepared for a wait. | Average main: $12 | 3702 Cameron St., at University Ave. | 907/479–0523.

Silver Gulch Brewing and Bottling Co.
AMERICAN | Beer lovers should definitely make the 10-mile trip up the Old Steese Highway to North America’s northernmost brewery. Several Silver Gulch brews can be found throughout the state, so when visiting here it’s worth checking out the specialty brews served only at the restaurant. Sit inside, or in good weather head out to the beer garden. This is a good place to come hungry. The Alaskan hush puppies—corn fritters plumped up with coconut, halibut, and shrimp—shouldn’t be missed. The brewery, founded in 1998, is in the Fox Roadhouse building, across the road from the Howling Dog Saloon, and a preserved section of the old roadhouse’s exterior still stands on the restaurant’s second floor. TIP Call ahead to find out when brewery tours are happening. | Average main: $20 | 2195 Old Steese Hwy., Fox | 907/452–2739 | www.silvergulch.com | No lunch weekdays | | Free brewery tours available in summer.

Fodor’s Choice | Thai House.
THAI | Fairbanks isn’t known for a varied selection of international cuisine, but Thai food is an exception, and many locals consider Thai House the best in town. The staff dress in elaborate Thai silks, and the atmosphere is elegant, with hardwood floors and Thai décor on the walls. The food itself is complex, flavorful, and exceedingly fresh. Ginger fans may want to head straight for the Ginger Lover, a aptly named item with warm, robust aromas. Vegetarians will find deep satisfaction from dishes such as the green curry tofu, with zucchini, peas, and basil leaves in just the right proportions. | Average main: $14 | 412 5th Ave., Downtown | 907/452–6123.

Turtle Club.
AMERICAN | Don’t go to this windowless and nondescript dining room expecting great variety. Do go if you are hungry for prime rib, lobster, prawns, or king crab and have a big appetite. There’s a good salad bar, the service is prompt, and every order comes with homemade bread. The “Turtle Cut” of prime rib, advertised as a “medium portion,” weighs about a pound. TIP The Turtle Club is worth the 10-mile drive north of Fairbanks, but it’s popular on Friday and Saturday nights, so if coming on those days you should make a reservation. | Average main: $30 | 2096 Old Steese Hwy. | Fox | 907/457–3883 | www.alaskanturtle.com.

Where to Stay

A Taste of Alaska Lodge.
B&B/INN | It’s clear from the get-go that owner Kory Eberhardt was born to run A Taste of Alaska Lodge—and he does so with great joy. He’ll happily share stories of his family’s life here: his grandfather homesteaded the property in 1947, and his parents started the lodge in 1992. Though just a 20-minute drive from Fairbanks, A Taste of Alaska is far enough outside town to make you feel as though at a wilderness retreat. The 280-acre property, graced with fields and forested woodlands, has great views of the Alaska Range to the south, and in winter you can see the northern lights. Accommodations include a remote cabin, a two-story log home, or the main lodge. Collectibles decorate the rooms—there’s a new delight at almost every turn. The room rate includes a sturdy and delicious breakfast, and Eberhardt offers dinner upon request. An extra bonus, the Paws for Adventure Sled Dog Tours (Fsee Outdoor Activities and Guided Tours, above) mushing company is on the property, making it easy to enjoy a ride or more without straying far from your temporary home. Pros: great view; eclectic collectibles; quiet location; on-site trails. Cons: 20 minutes to town. | Rooms from: $185 | 551 Eberhardt Rd. | Two Rivers | 907/488–7855 | www.atasteofalaska.com | 8 rooms in lodge, 2 in log house, 1 in annex | Breakfast.

All Seasons Bed and Breakfast Inn.
B&B/INN | In a quiet residential neighborhood within walking distance of downtown, this nicely furnished inn provides relaxation and privacy. Owner Mary Richards hails from the South, so the emphasis on hospitality isn’t surprising. Breakfast in the dining room might include apple pancakes, quiche, egg puffs, or lighter selections. Mary’s cooking style is well known locally: many of her recipes appear in her food column in the Fairbanks Daily News–Miner. Pros: close to downtown; clean rooms; trip-planning help available. Cons: interior lacks Alaskan ambience. | Rooms from: $149 | 763 7th Ave., Downtown | 907/451–6649 | www.allseasonsinn.com | 8 rooms | Breakfast.

Aurora Express.
B&B/INN | Rooms inside historic railcars make this off-the-beaten-path inn well worth the detour. The renovated Alaska Railroad cars, which sit on 700 feet of transplanted tracks, contain rooms filled with Victorian furnishings. The caboose is especially nice, and very romantic. Breakfast is served each morning as it would be for passengers riding the rails—in the dining car. On the way to it, you can enjoy the panoramic views the inn’s hillside setting affords. Pros: area’s most unique lodging; sweeping valley views. Cons: far from town; phone in common area only; no kids under 12. | Rooms from: $145 | 1550 Chena Ridge Rd. | 907/474–0949, 800/221–0073 | www.fairbanksalaskabedandbreakfast.com | 7 rooms | Closed early Sept.–late May | Breakfast.

Bridgewater Hotel.
HOTEL | In the heart of downtown Fairbanks, just above the Chena River, the Bridgewater has gone through several incarnations, emerging most recently as a modern, European-style hotel. The Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitors Center is within walking distance, as are downtown shops and restaurants. To visit attractions farther afield, guests can take advantage of the hotel’s free trolley, which also provides service to the Fountainhead Antique Auto Museum and Wildlife Sanctuary, both at a sister property, the Wedgewood Resort. Flowers overflow the hanging baskets, and wicker furniture adorns the light and airy lobby, creating a warm, summertime atmosphere. Poster-size historical photos on the walls provide glimpses into the past. Pros: good location; weekend specials available; downtown hotel with the most character; free trolley. Cons: small, modest rooms; no refrigerators; restaurant serves breakfast only. | Rooms from: $130 | 723 1st Ave., Downtown | 907/452–6661, 800/528–4916 | www.fountainheadhotels.com/bridgewater-hotel | 93 rooms | Closed mid-Sept.–mid-May | No meals.

Minnie Street Bed & Breakfast Inn.
B&B/INN | A short walk from the river and downtown Fairbanks, this charming bed-and-breakfast is one of the most convenient—and comfortable—in Fairbanks. Rooms are spacious but cozy, with thoughtful touches, including refrigerators and non-allergenic bedding. Suites offer even more thoughtful touches, among them heated floors, fireplaces, and double Jacuzzis. Owner Marnie Hazelaar offers as delightful a conversation as she does a breakfast. You’ll head off for your day full of tasty food and ideas for things to do. Pros: elegant décor; central location; northern-lights views from deck. Cons: no pets allowed, parking lot is cramped. | Rooms from: $169 | 345 Minnie St., Downtown | 907/456–1802, 888/456–1849 | www.minniestreetbandb.com | 12 rooms, 3 suites, 1 house | Breakfast.

Pike’s Waterfront Lodge.
HOTEL | Log columns and beams support the high ceiling in the lobby of this hotel and conference center on the bank of the Chena River. More than 20,000 flowering plants grace the grounds, a ½-mile river walk borders the property, and on summer days a daily attendant-led stroll of the house ducks through the lobby will delight kids and adults. Green touches include solar panels, carpets made from recycled materials, and a greenhouse that university students tend. The lodge contains several warm and cozy common areas, including a piano room and a fireplace lounge, and the excellent beds in the rooms make for a restful ending to an active day touring Fairbanks. For a higher rate, riverfront rooms offer scenic views. If you’re looking for a more Alaskan experience, try one of the 28 rustic log cabins. Pros: aside the Chena River; Pike’s Landing next door is a hot spot; close to the airport; free Wi-Fi. Cons: small gym; all rooms a short walk from the restaurant. | Rooms from: $235 | 1850 Hoselton Rd. | 907/456–4500, 877/774–2400 | www.pikeslodge.com | 180 rooms, 28 cabins | Breakfast.

River’s Edge Resort.
HOTEL | If you want the privacy of a cottage, a bit of elbow room, and the amenities of a luxury hotel, you’ll find them all at this resort on the bank of the Chena River. The individual cottages, some of them fronting the river and surrounded by beautifully landscaped grounds, have patios or garden spaces. On summer evenings you can sit outside and watch canoes, rafts, and powerboats pass by. Chena’s Alaskan Grill serves lunch and dinner at the lodge, which has eight executive suites. A breakfast buffet is laid out at the lodge starting at 6 am. Pros: prime Chena River location; private cabins. Cons: no kitchenettes; half mile to nearest shop or bar. | Rooms from: $205 | 4200 Boat St., University West | 907/474–0286, 800/770–3343 | www.riversedge.net | 86 cottages, 8 lodge suites | Closed mid-Sept.–mid-May | No meals.

Sophie Station Suites.
HOTEL | Its quiet location and helpful staff make this spacious hotel near the airport one of Fairbanks’s best. It has comfy furniture, rich upholstery, and Alaskan artwork throughout. If you don’t feel like dining out, these suites include full kitchens. Or just head to Zach’s, the hotel restaurant, which serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Take advantage of the complimentary Town Trolley to visit area attractions, downtown, the Alaska Museum of the North, and two highlights of the affiliated Wedgewood Resort, the Antique Auto Museum and the Wildlife Sanctuary. Pros: free Wi-Fi; full kitchens; free trolley. Cons: average interior décor. | Rooms from: $179 | 1717 University Ave. | 907/479–3650, 800/528–4916 | www.fountainheadhotels.com | 149 suites | No meals.

SpringHill Suites by Marriott.
HOTEL | At the center of the commercial district’s former heart, the SpringHill Suites has 140 comfortable suites, each with a microwave, a refrigerator, living-room furniture, and a well-lighted work area. The hotel provides a complimentary Continental breakfast buffet, and the in-house restaurant, Lavelle’s, is among the city’s best places to eat. Ask for a room facing the river, on the hotel’s scenic side. Pros: comfortable in-room desk areas; good pool; on-site restaurant is a Fairbanks favorite. Cons: small lounge; no DVD players; moderate-size gym. | Rooms from: $159 | 575 1st Ave., Downtown | 907/451–6552, 800/314-0858 | www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/faish-springhill-suites-fairbanks | 140 suites | Breakfast.

Fodor’s Choice | Wedgewood Resort.
RESORT | Wild and cultivated flowers adorn the landscaped grounds of this 105-acre resort bordering the Creamer’s Field Migratory Waterfowl Refuge. The Alaska Bird Observatory, a local nonprofit that researches and promotes the conservation of Alaska’s birds, is headquartered here, and trails at the 75-acre Wedgewood Wildlife Sanctuary connect with ones at the waterfowl refuge. The Fountainhead Antique Automobile Museum, one of the world’s finest car museums, is also on the property. Free evening events include mushing programs, live owl presentations, and screenings of Alaskan movies. All accommodations are suites with full kitchens. The Bear Lodge hotel—also part of the resort—has 157 large rooms available in summer, as well as a nice restaurant. A free shuttle transports guests to the resort’s sister hotels, the Bridgewater and the Sophie Station Suites, and to downtown Fairbanks, the Alaska Museum of the North, and shopping spots. Pros: courteous staff; trails through a wildlife sanctuary; antique automobile museum; free shuttle and Wi-Fi. Cons: away from other Fairbanks attractions. | Rooms from: $170 | 212 Wedgewood Dr. | 907/456–3642, 800/528–4916 | www.fountainheadhotels.com | 306 suites.

Nightlife and The Arts

Check the Fairbanks Daily News-Miner website for current nightspots, plays, concerts, and art shows.

Bars and Pubs

Blue Loon.
Between Ester and Fairbanks on Parks Highway, the Blue Loon presents year-round entertainment and serves great grill food. Movies screen nightly at 5:30 and 8, except when there’s a special event. National bands and comedians perform here, and there are outdoor concerts in summer and DJ dancing until late on weekends. All this and free Wi-Fi. | 2999 Parks Hwy., Mile 353.5 | 907/457–5666 | www.theblueloon.com | Closed Sun. and Mon.

Fodor’s Choice | HooDoo Brewing Co.
Recent arrival HooDoo quickly became the go-to spot for locals thirsting for well-crafted beer. The company sells growlers to go, but its beer is best quaffed outdoors on a sunny afternoon around the brewery’s spool tables—or if things become weathery, inside the hip and airy taproom. The beer line is often long, but it moves quickly and it’s a good place to meet new friends. (The crowd is fun.) TIP Don’t dally about coming to HooDoo: it closes at 8 pm. Free brewery tours take place on Saturday at 4 pm. | 1951 Fox Ave. | 907/459–2337 | hoodoobrew.com.

Howling Dog Saloon.
A local institution, the Howling Dog specializes in live blues and rock ‘n’ roll, served up with gobs of atmosphere. A party crowd of college students, airline pilots, tourists, miners, and bikers assembles for the music, along with cocktails, beer, wine, and bar food. | Mile 11.5,2160 Old Steese Hwy. N | Fox | 907/456–4695 | www.howlingdogsaloon.com | Closed Nov.–May.

Senator’s Saloon.
On a warm summer evening, the saloon at the Pump House Restaurant is a fine place to hear easy-listening music alongside the Chena River. | 796 Chena Pump Rd. | 907/479–8452 | www.pumphouse.com.

Theater

Palace Theatre.
The theater hosts the Golden Heart Revue, a musical-comedy show about the founding and building of Fairbanks. | Pioneer Park, Airport Way and Peger Rd. | 907/456–5960, 800/354–7274 | www.akvisit.com | $19.95 | Mid-May–mid-Sept., daily at 8:15 pm.

Shopping

Art Galleries

The Alaska House Art Gallery.
Owner Yolande Fejes takes the “Alaska” in her beautiful gallery’s name seriously: everything she sells is made in state. Head here for fine art and souvenirs made with regional pride. The gallery is also a worthy stop during the monthly Arts + Culture First Friday showcase of local artists and their works. | 1003 Cushman St., Downtown | 907/456–6449 | www.thealaskahouse.com.

Crafts

Beads and Things.
This shop sells Native handicrafts from around the state, along with a world’s worth of beads for those who want to design their own pieces. | 537 2nd Ave., Downtown | 907/456–2323.

Great Alaskan Bowl Company.
The big one-stop shop for Alaskan-made gifts and souvenirs, Great Alaskan specializes in lathe-turned bowls made out of Alaskan birch. | 4630 Old Airport Rd. | 907/474–9663 | www.woodbowl.com.

A Weaver’s Yarn.
Artists Susan and Martin Miller own this shop that will delight knitters new and experienced. It’s the perfect place to buy a gift for that knitter back home or to pick up some qiviut, the pricey but exquisite undercoat wool of the musk ox, and the softest stuff imaginable. | 1810 Alaska Way, College | 907/374–1995 | www.aweaversyarn.com | Closed Sun. and Mon.

Jewelry

Judie Gumm Designs.
In her small shop, owner Judie Gumm fashions stunning and moderately priced silver and gold designs best described as sculptural interpretations of Northern images. Gumm, a longtime Ester resident, is a fun person to chat up about life in this small and, as the architecture on the drive to her shop makes clear, quirky community. | 3600 Main St. | Ester | 907/479–4568, 800/478–4568 | www.judiegumm.com.

Larson’s Fine Jewelers.
This shop has been making jewelry, including some very Fairbanks gold-nugget designs, since 1946. | 405 Noble St., Downtown | 907/456–4141.

Taylor’s Gold-N-Stones.
Taylor’s uses gemstones mined in Alaska and creates unique gold designs. | 3578-B Airport Way, University Avenue | 907/456–8369, 800/306–3589 | www.taylorsgold.com.

Outerwear and Outdoor Gear

Apocalypse Design.
In business for 30-plus years, Apocalypse makes its own specialized cold-weather clothing for dog mushers and other winter adventurers. Travelers from colder areas of the Lower 48 will appreciate the double-layer fleece mittens, among other items. | 201 Minnie St. | 907/451–7555, 877/521–7555 | www.akgear.com.

Beaver Sports.
This store that facilitates midnight-sun runs stocks quality backpacking, biking, paddling, and skiing gear. | 3480 College Rd., College | 907/479–2494 | www.beaversports.com.

Side Trip: Nenana

56 road miles southwest of Fairbanks, 75 miles north of Denali National Park, 304 miles north of Anchorage on the George Parks Highway.

For a break from the buzz of the George Parks Highway, take a detour in Nenana (rhymes with “banana”), a year-round town of approximately 500 people, on the banks of the Tanana River and under the shadow of Toghotthele Hill or, in Athabascan, the “mountain that parallels the river.” The downtown avenue seems stuck in time, a relic of the early Alaska Railroad construction heyday from 1915 to 1923.

Nenana has several claims to fame: home to the world’s second-largest single-span bridge, 700 feet long; the site where President Warren Harding drove the golden spike into Alaska’s railroad to commemorate its completion (and possibly where he caught the case of pneumonia that killed him); and the start of the 1925 serum run to Nome. It’s also home to the Nenana Ice classic, where Alaskans annually bet on the date and time of the river’s spring breakup. Ongoing since 1917, the jackpot sometimes climbs over $300,000.

Nenana Walking Tour

To get your blood flowing, start with a short walking tour at 5th Street, where you can talk with the staff at the Nenana Visitor Center. Continue north down A Street, past old storefronts, like Coghill’s General Store dating from 1916, to the Alaska Railroad Depot, home of the Alaska Railroad Museum, which was built in 1923 and is now on the National Register of Historic Places. It’s a fascinating stop, with a lot more inside than just train stuff. One block more along Front Street, peek into St. Mark’s Episcopal Church, built upriver in 1905; note its beautiful handcrafted altar and Athabascan moose-hide beadwork inside. Finish the tour along the river at the Alfred Starr Nenana Cultural Center, where you’ll find authentic gifts by local artists from within 50 miles of Nenana, or browse the exhibits highlighting history and Athabascan culture of the area.

Where to Eat

Rough Woods Inn & Cafe.
DINER | At first glance, the Rough Woods looks like a typical Alaskana-ish sort of place, all burled wood and carved bears and such, but it’s much more thanks to owner Ruth Coy. In this town with few dining alternatives Ruth could get away with a so-so menu, but instead she challenges herself, making her own herb bread for her popular breakfast sandwich (served all day). Other menu items range from deep-fried halibut to steaks, and the pie of the day is always a good choice. Coy even got licensed to brew beer, and her microbrews, including an excellent hefeweizen, are only available here. | Average main: $19 | 2nd and A Sts. | Nenana | 907/832–5299 | www.roughwoodsinn.biz | Closed Tues.

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