Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents
Cruise Itineraries | Pre- and Post-Cruise Itineraries | When to Go | Booking Your Cruise | Cruise Costs | Other Considerations | About The Ships
By Linda Coffman
Alaska is one of cruising’s showcase destinations. Itineraries give passengers more choices than ever before: traditional loop cruises of the Inside Passage, round-trips from Vancouver or Seattle, and one-way Inside Passage–Gulf of Alaska cruises.
From May through September each year thousands of travelers choose to explore Alaska by cruise ship, enjoying the convenience of checking in once, unpacking, and visiting a variety of ports and scenic destinations. Wildlife spottings are not uncommon from an open deck and the thrill of witnessing a glacier calving from the water is a highlight witnessed by nearly all cruise ship passengers. Your decision to visit Alaska on a cruise is just the first of many you will make—excursions ashore greatly enhance the experience, and you will want to select those that interest you most.
Though Alaska cruises have generally attracted an older passenger demographic, more young people and families are setting sail for the 49th state, and children are a common sight aboard ships. Cruise lines have responded with youth programs and shore excursions that appeal to youngsters and their parents. Shore excursions have become more active, too, often incorporating activities families can enjoy together, such as bicycling, kayaking, and hiking. Many lines also offer pre- or postcruise land tours as an optional package trip, and onboard entertainment and learning programs are extensive. Most also hire Alaska Native speakers, naturalists, or local personalities to lead discussions stimulated by the local environment.
Cruise ships may seem like floating resorts, but you can’t check out and go elsewhere if you don’t like your ship. The one you choose will be your home—it determines the type of accommodations you have, what kind of food you eat, what style of entertainment you see, and even the destinations you visit. If you don’t enjoy your ship, you probably won’t enjoy your cruise. That is why the most important choice you’ll make when booking a cruise is the combined selection of cruise line and cruise ship.
Cruise ships typically follow one of two itineraries in Alaska: round-trip Inside Passage loops and one-way Inside Passage–Gulf of Alaska cruises. Itineraries are usually seven days, though some lines offer longer trips. TIP Keep in mind that the landscape along the Inside Passage changes dramatically over the course of the summer cruise season. In May and June, you’ll see snowcapped mountains and dramatic waterfalls from snowmelt cascading down the cliff faces, but by July and August most of the snow and some waterfalls will be gone.
The most popular Alaskan ports of call are Juneau, Skagway, Ketchikan, and Sitka. Lesser-known ports in British Columbia, such as the charming fishing port of Prince Rupert, have begun to see more cruise traffic.
Small ships typically sail within Alaska, setting sail from Juneau or other Alaskan ports, stopping at the popular ports as well as smaller, less visited villages. Some expedition vessels focus on remote beaches and fjords, with few, if any, port calls.
Choosing Your Cruise Cabin
Inside Cabins
An inside cabin is just that: a stateroom that’s inside the ship with no window. These are always the least expensive cabins and are ideal for passengers who would rather spend on excursions than on upgraded accommodations. Size, décor, and amenities are similar to outside cabins; many ships locate cabins accommodating three or more passengers on the inside. TIP For passengers who want a very dark room for sleeping, an inside cabin is ideal.
Outside Cabins
Outside cabins have either a picture window or porthole. To give the illusion of more space, these cabins might rely on the generous use of mirrors. Outside cabins are the better choice for those prone to motion sickness. TIP Check to make sure your view of the sea is not obstructed by a lifeboat. The ship’s deck plan will help you figure it out.
Balcony Cabins
A balcony—or veranda—cabin is an outside cabin with floor-to-ceiling glass doors that open onto a private deck. TIP If you have small children, a veranda cabin isn’t the best choice. Accidents can happen, even on balconies with solid barriers beneath the railing.
Suites
Suites are the most lavish accommodations. Although they’re always larger than regular cabins, they don’t always have separate rooms for sleeping. The most expansive (and expensive) have large living rooms and separate bedrooms and may also have huge private outdoor sundecks with hot tubs and dining areas.
A seven-day cruise typically starts and finishes in Vancouver, British Columbia, or Seattle, Washington. The first and last days are spent at sea, traveling to and from Alaska along the mountainous coast of British Columbia. Once in Alaska waters, most ships call at a different port on each of four days, and reserve one day for cruising in or near Glacier Bay National Park or another glacier-rich fjord.
These cruises depart from Vancouver, Seattle, or, occasionally, San Francisco, and finish at Seward or Whittier, the seaports for Anchorage (or vice versa). They’re a good choice if you want to explore Alaska by land, either before or after your cruise. For this itinerary, you’ll need to fly into and out of different cities (into Vancouver and out of Anchorage, for example), which can be pricier than round-trip airfare to and from the same city.
Most small ships and yachts home port in Juneau or other Alaskan ports and offer a variety of one-way and round-trip cruises entirely within Alaska. A typical small-ship cruise is a seven-day, one-way or round trip from Juneau, stopping at several Inside Passage ports—including smaller ports skipped by large cruise ships. Some itineraries can be booked back-to-back for a longer cruise.
Alaska’s small cruise ships and yachts are based in Juneau or other Alaskan ports throughout the summer. In September they sail back to their winter homes in the Pacific Northwest; in May they return to Alaska via the Inside Passage. These repositioning trips are usually about 11 days or more.
Although mainstream lines stick to the popular seven-day Alaskan itineraries, some smaller excursion lines add more exotic options, such as an occasional voyage across the Bering Sea to Japan and Asia. You can also create your own itinerary by taking an Alaska Marine Highway System ferry to ports of your choosing.
The cruise-ship season is over by October, but for independent, off-season ferry travel November is the best month. After the stormy month of October, it’s still relatively warm on the Inside Passage (temperatures will average about 40°F), and it’s a good time for wildlife watching. In particular, humpback whales are abundant off Sitka, and bald eagles congregate by the thousands near Haines.
Most cruise lines offer the option of independent, hosted, or fully escorted land tours before or after your cruise. Independent tours give you a preplanned itinerary with confirmed hotel and transportation arrangements, but you’re free to follow your interests in each town. Hosted tours are similar, but tour-company representatives are available along the route for assistance. On fully escorted tours you travel with a group, led by a tour director. Activities are preplanned (and typically prepaid), so you have a good idea of how much your trip will cost (not counting meals and incidentals) before departure. Most lines offer cruise tour itineraries that include a ride aboard the Alaska Railroad.
Running between Anchorage, Denali National Park, and Fairbanks are Holland America Line’s McKinley Explorer, Princess Tours’ Denali Express and McKinley Express, and Royal Caribbean’s Wilderness Express, which offer unobstructed views of the passing terrain and wildlife from private glass-domed railcars. Princess Cruises and Holland America Line have the most extensive Alaska cruise tours, owning and operating their own coaches, railcars, and lodges.
In addition to rail trips to Denali, Holland America offers tours into the Yukon, as well as river cruises on the Yukon River. Princess’s cruise tours include trips to the Yukon and the Kenai Peninsula. Both lines offer land excursions across the Arctic Circle to Prudhoe Bay. Several cruise lines also offer pre- and post-cruise tours of the Canadian Rockies. Of the traditional cruise-ship fleets, Carnival Cruise Lines and Disney Cruise Line do not currently offer cruise-tour packages in Alaska. Many cruise lines also offer pre- or postcruise hotel and sightseeing packages in Vancouver, Seattle, or Anchorage lasting one to three days. Note that most small-ship lines offer hotel add-ons but not land tours.
Cruise season runs from mid-May to late September. The most popular sailing dates are from late June through August, when warm days are apt to be most plentiful. In spring, wildflowers are abundant, and you’ll likely see more wildlife along the shore because the animals haven’t yet migrated to higher elevations. May and June are traditionally drier than July and August. Alaska’s early fall brings the splendor of autumn hues and the first snowfalls in the mountains. Animals return to low ground, and shorter days bring the possibility of seeing the northern lights. Daytime temperatures in May, June, and September are in the 50s and 60s. July and August averages are in the 60s and 70s, with occasional days in the 80s. Cruising in the low and shoulder seasons provides other advantages besides discounted fares: availability of ships and particular cabins is greater, and ports are almost completely free of tourists.
As a rule, the majority of cruisers plan their trips four to six months ahead of time. It follows, then, that a four- to six-month window should give you the pick of sailing dates, ships, itineraries, cabins, and flights to the port city. If you’re looking for a standard itinerary and aren’t choosy about the vessel or dates, you could wait for a last-minute discount, but they are harder to find than in the past.
If particular shore excursions are important to you, consider booking them when you book your cruise to avoid disappointment later.
Before You Book
If you’ve decided to use a travel agent, ask yourself these 10 simple questions, and you’ll be better prepared to help the agent do his or her job.
1. Who will be going on the cruise?
2. What can you afford to spend for the entire trip?
3. Where would you like to go?
4. How much vacation time do you have?
5. When can you get away?
6. What are your interests?
7. Do you prefer a casual or structured vacation?
8. What kind of accommodations do you want?
9. What are your dining preferences?
10. How will you get to the embarkation port?
Average fares for Alaskan itineraries vary dramatically depending on when you sail, which ship and grade of cabin you choose, and when you book. Published rates are highest from June through August; you’ll pay less, and have more space on ship and ashore, if you sail in May or September.
Whenever you choose to sail, remember that the brochure price is the highest fare the line will charge for a given cruise. Most lines offer early-booking discounts, although these vary tremendously. Sometimes you can book a discounted last-minute cruise if the ship hasn’t filled all its cabins, but you won’t get your pick of ships, cabins, or sailing dates. However, if your fare drops after you’ve paid your deposit and before you make your final payment, your travel agent may be able to negotiate to get the lower fare for you, obtain an onboard credit for the difference, or arrange an upgrade in your accommodations—for instance, from an oceanview cabin to one with a balcony.
Single cabins for solo travelers are nonexistent on most ships; taking a double cabin can cost as much as twice the advertised per-person rates (which are based on two people sharing a room). Some cruise lines will find roommates of the same sex for singles so that each can travel at the regular per-person rate.
Small-Ship Cruises
We cover the most recognized small-ship lines sailing in Alaska, but that is by no means exhaustive. Other great small ships sailing the Inside Passage include Fantasy Cruises’ Island Spirit (www.smallalaskaship.com), owned and operated by Captain Jeff Behrens, who is committed to rapport-building with and respect for the area’s smallest communities; and Alaskan Dream Cruises (www.alaskandreamcruises.com), a three-ship Native-owned cruise line based in Sitka, Alaska, also with a focus on the area’s smaller communities. Alaska Sea Adventures (www.yachtalaska.com) focuses on charters and single-theme cruises on wildlife photography, birding, research, archaeology, whale migration, or fish spawning. Its ship, Northern Song, can accommodate up to eight passengers.
Cruise fares typically include accommodation, onboard meals and snacks, and most onboard activities. Not normally included are airfare, shore excursions, tips, soft drinks, alcoholic drinks, specialty dining, or spa treatments. Port fees, fuel surcharges, and sales taxes are generally added to your fare at booking.
Children’s programs: Virtually every line has children’s programs. However, high-end lines generally only offer supervised programs when enough children are aboard to warrant them or during school holidays. Small ships are less likely to offer kids’ programs; however, some do schedule a few family-friendly sailings. Check whether the available shore excursions include activities that will appeal to kids.
Ports of call: You’ll want to know where and when you will be stopping. Will there be enough time in port to do what you want to do there? Will it be the right time of day for your chosen activity? Will you tender to shore by boat or moor up at the dock? This is important, as tendering can take some time away from your port visit.
Onboard activities: Your cruise will likely include one or two full days at sea. Think about how you’d like to fill the time. Do you want great workout facilities or a spa? What about educational opportunities or shopping? If seeing Alaska itself is your priority, choose a ship with lots of outdoor and indoor viewing space.
Large cruise lines account for the majority of passengers sailing to Alaska. These typically have large cruise ships in their fleets with plentiful deck space. In the newest vessels, traditional meets trendy with resort-style innovations; however, they still feature cruise-ship classics, like afternoon tea and complimentary room service. The smallest cruise ships carry as few as 400 passengers, while the biggest can accommodate between 1,500 and 3,000 passengers—enough people to outnumber the residents of many Alaskan port towns. Large ships are a good choice if you’re looking for nonstop activity and lots of options; they’re especially appealing for groups and families with children. If you prefer a gentler pace and a chance to get to know your shipmates, try a smaller ship.
Compact expedition-type vessels bring you right up to the shoreline to skirt the face of a glacier and pull through narrow channels where big ships don’t fit. These cruises focus on Alaska, and you’ll see more wildlife and call into smaller ports, as well as some of the better-known towns. Enrichment talks—conducted by naturalists, Alaska Natives, and other experts in the state’s natural history and Native cultures—are the norm. Cabins on expedition ships can be tiny, with bathrooms often no bigger than cubbyholes. The dining room and lounge are usually the only public areas on these vessels; however, some are luxurious with cushy cabins, comfy lounges and libraries, and hot tubs. You won’t find much nightlife aboard, but what you trade for space and onboard diversions is a unique and unforgettable glimpse of Alaska.
Small-ship cruising can be pricey, as fares tend to be all-inclusive (except for airfare), but have few onboard charges, and, given the size of ship and style of cruise, fewer opportunities for spending time on board.