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Air Travel | Boat Travel | Bus Travel | Car Travel | Train Travel

Air Travel

Alaska Airlines is the state’s flagship carrier, with year-round service from its Seattle hub to Anchorage, Fairbanks, Juneau, Ketchikan, and Sitka. The airline and its subsidiary, Horizon Air, offer direct flights from Anchorage to a handful of American cities year-round such as Chicago and Las Vegas. Alaska Airlines flies to many other North American cities via Seattle or Portland. In addition, the airline offers year-round flights between Anchorage and Hawaii.

Other airlines that fly to and from the Lower 48 include American, Delta, Frontier, JetBlue, United, and US Airways. Note, however, that few offer nonstop flights and many of those that do offer such flights do so only seasonally (primarily in the summer months).

The average travel time (nonstop flights only) from Seattle to Anchorage is 3½ hours. Travel times from other destinations depend on your connection, because you’ll probably need to route through other cities. Many of the low-fare flights out of Anchorage depart around 1 am, so be sure you’re at the airport on the correct day when flying just after midnight.

Airports

Anchorage’s Ted Stevens International Airport is Alaska’s main hub. There are also major airports (“major” meaning that they serve jets as well as Bush planes) in Fairbanks, Juneau, and Ketchikan. The Fairbanks airport is the largest of the three; Juneau and Ketchikan have few facilities and gates. Sixteen other airports throughout the state also serve jet planes.

Unless you’re flying from the West Coast or manage to get a nonstop flight, chances are you’ll spend some time in Seattle’s international airport, Seattle-Tacoma (known locally as Sea-Tac), waiting for a connection. And Vancouver, Canada, is often the starting point for Alaskan cruises that make their first stop in Ketchikan, Alaska’s southernmost town.

You won’t find much in terms of entertainment in Ted Stevens, Sea-Tac, or Vancouver’s airport, so if you have really long layovers at any of the three, consider taking a taxi into the city. Ted Stevens is only 6 miles from downtown Anchorage; Seattle’s downtown area is 14 miles from the airport, and if you don’t get stuck in the city’s notorious rush-hour traffic you can get there in 20 minutes. It can take 30 to 45 minutes to get to downtown Vancouver from the airport.

There are no departure taxes for travel within the United States.

Airlines and Airports
Airline and Airport Links.com. | www.airlineandairportlinks.com.

Airline Security Issues
Transportation Security Administration. | 866/289–9673 | www.tsa.gov.

Airport Information
Fairbanks International Airport (FAI). | 907/474–2500 | www.dot.state.ak.us/faiiap.
Juneau International Airport (JNU). | 907/789-7821 | www.juneau.org/airport.
Ketchikan Airport (KTN). | 907/225–6800 | www.borough.ketchikan.ak.us/airport/airport.htm.
Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SEA). | 206/787–5388, 800/544–1965 | www.portseattle.org/seatac.
Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport (ANC). | 907/266–2525 | dot.alaska.gov/anc/.
Vancouver International Airport (YVR). | 604/207–7077 | www.yvr.ca.

Within Alaska

Air travel within Alaska is quite expensive, particularly to Bush destinations where flying is the only option. A round-trip flight between Anchorage and Dutch Harbor typically costs more than $1,000. Flights from Anchorage to Fairbanks or Juneau are a little more forgiving; at this writing, round-trip flights run about $250 and $350, respectively.

Air Taxis

The workhorse planes of the north are the Beavers, most of which were built in the 1950s and are still flying. The cost of an air-taxi flight between towns or backcountry locations depends on distance and the type of plane used, whether the plane is on floats, the number of people in your group, the length of the flight in each direction (including the time the pilot flies back after dropping you off), and the destination. Typical hourly rates are approximately $600–$800 for a Beaver, with room for up to six people and gear; or $400–$600 for a Cessna 185, with room for three people and gear. Expect to pay more the farther you are from Anchorage.

Small Planes

Many scheduled flights to Bush communities are on small planes that seat 6 to 15 passengers. These planes have played a legendary part in the state’s history: Bush pilots helped explore Alaska and have been responsible for many dramatic rescue missions. That said, small craft have their inconveniences. They can only transport a limited amount of gear, so plan to leave your large, hard-sided suitcases behind. Small, soft duffels make more sense, and are easier for the pilot to stash in cramped cargo spaces.

Small planes also can’t fly in poor weather, which could mean delays counted in days, not hours. And even on good days turbulence might leave you white-knuckled and green in the face. Fortunately, most flights are uneventful, with the scenery below—rather than a rough ride—making them memorable.

Contact
Bering Air for flights from Nome or Kotzebue to smaller communities of the Far North; Ravn Alaska for flights from Anchorage to Bethel, Cordova, Fairbanks, Homer, Iliamna, Kenai, Kodiak, Valdez, and many Bush villages.

Try Warbelow’s Air Ventures for flights out of Fairbanks to Interior destinations. Peninsula Airways (PenAir), based in Anchorage, covers southwestern Alaska, including Aniak, Dillingham, Dutch Harbor, McGrath, King Salmon, Sand Point, St. George, and St. Paul. Wings of Alaska serves several Southeast Alaska towns, including Gustavus, Haines, Juneau, and Skagway. Grant Aviation flies from Anchorage to Homer and Kenai as well as Bethel, Dillingham, Emmonak, and St. Mary’s.

Boat Travel

If you’re looking for a casual alternative to a luxury cruise, travel as Alaskans do, aboard the ferries of the Alaska Marine Highway System. These vessels may not have the same facilities as the big cruise ships, but they do meander through some beautiful regions.

Most long-haul ferries have cabins with private bathrooms. You’ll need to reserve these accommodations in advance or settle for a reclining seat on the aft deck. Most ships also have cheap or free showers as well as spaces where you can roll out sleeping bags or even pitch tents. You’re welcome to bring picnics and coolers, and all long-haul ferries have cafeterias with hot meal service (not included in the fare), along with vending machines. Some larger boats even have cocktail lounges.

Reservations and Fares

You can make reservations by phone or online. Book as far in advance as possible for summertime travel, especially if you have a vehicle. You can pay for ferry travel with credit card (Discover, MasterCard, or Visa), cashier’s check, or money order.

You should also book ahead for the Bellingham–Ketchikan journey. The Bellingham–Ketchikan route costs roughly $240 one-way in summer. Shorter trips cost anywhere from $30 to $190 one-way. Note that there are additional charges for vehicles including motorcycles, bicycles, and kayaks. Renting cabins will also increase the fare.

Information
Alaska Marine Highway. | 907/465–3941, 800/642–0066 | www.ferryalaska.com.
Inter-Island Ferry Authority. | 907/225–4848 for Ketchikan Terminal, 907/530–4848 for Hollis Terminal, 866/308–4848 | www.interislandferry.com.

Routes

The Inside Passage route, which stretches from Bellingham, Washington (or Prince Rupert, British Columbia), all the way up to Skagway and Haines, is the most popular route, mimicking that of most major cruise lines. The Bellingham–Ketchikan trip, the longest leg, takes roughly 37 hours. (The trip from Prince Rupert to Ketchikan takes six hours.) Other trips along the Inside Passage take from three to eight hours.

Sporadic summer service across the Gulf of Alaska from either Prince Rupert, Ketchikan, or Juneau links Southeast with Southcentral Alaska destinations (trips usually end in Whittier, about 60 miles south of Anchorage). There’s further service to limited ports in Southcentral Alaska as well as connecting service to the Southwest from Whittier and Homer to Kodiak and Port Lions, respectively. Southwest ferries can take you all the way to Dutch Harbor.

Two high-speed catamarans can cut travel time in half. The MV Fairweather is based in Juneau and primarily serves Sitka. In summer the MV Chenega, based in Cordova, serves Prince William Sound, with stops in Valdez and Cordova.

Note that although major ports like Juneau and Ketchikan will likely have daily departures, service to smaller towns is much more sporadic—one departure per week in some cases.

Bus Travel

Traveling by bus in Alaska can be more economical than traveling by train or by air, but don’t count on it being your main mode of travel. Always confirm your trip via phone, as schedules often change at the last minute.

Greyhound Canada Transportation Corp. serves Vancouver, with service as far north as Whitehorse in the Canadian Yukon. Two companies provide onward bus service into Southcentral and Interior Alaska from Whitehorse. Interior Alaska Bus Lines operates year-round van service connecting Anchorage and Fairbanks with Glennallen, Delta Junction, and Tok in Alaska, along with Whitehorse in the Yukon. Alaska/Yukon Trails provides bus service between Anchorage and Fairbanks, and connecting Fairbanks with Dawson City and Whitehorse in the Yukon.

Denali Overland Transportation has frequent van service in summer between Anchorage, Talkeetna, and Denali National Park and Preserve, catering especially to mountain climbers. The Alaska Park Connection has summertime bus service between Seward and Anchorage, continuing north to Denali. Homer Stage Line provides service connecting Anchorage and Seward with Homer.

Quick Shuttle buses run between Vancouver and Seattle. Many bus lines—particularly those heading to Denali—either require or strongly recommend reservations. Accepted forms of payment vary among bus companies, but most accept MasterCard, Visa, and traveler’s checks.

Car Travel

Though journeying through Canada on the Alaska Highway can be exciting, the trek from the Lower 48 states is a long one. It’s a seven-day trip from Seattle to Anchorage or Fairbanks, covering close to 2,500 miles. From Bellingham, Washington, and the Canadian ports of Prince Rupert and Stewart you can link up with ferry service along the Marine Highway to reach Southeast Alaska.

The Alaska Highway (known by locals as “the Alcan”) begins at Dawson Creek, British Columbia, and stretches 1,442 miles through Canada’s Yukon to Delta Junction; it enters Alaska east of Tok. The two-lane highway is paved for its entire length and is open year-round. Highway services are available about every 50 to 100 miles (sometimes at shorter intervals). But there are stretches where gas stations are sparser or open at limited hours, and areas where mobile phone service is nonexistent, so planning ahead is crucial.

The rest of the state’s roads are found almost exclusively in the Southcentral and Interior regions. They lie mainly between Anchorage, Fairbanks, and the Canadian border. Only one highway extends north of Fairbanks, and one runs south of Anchorage to the Kenai Peninsula. These roads vary from four-lane freeways (rare) to nameless two-lane gravel roads.

If you plan extensive driving in Alaska, join an automobile club such as AAA that offers towing and other benefits. Because of the long distances involved, you should seriously consider a plan (such as AAA Plus) that extends towing benefits to 100 miles in any direction.

The Milepost is indispensable. The mile-by-mile guide to sights and services along Alaska’s highways is available for purchase online, or downloadable as an app or ebook.

The Alaska Department of Transportation is a great resource for road reports, rockfall alerts, and other advisories.

Gasoline

Gas prices in the Anchorage area are usually higher than those in the Lower 48, and you can expect to pay even more in Juneau and Ketchikan, and far more in remote villages off the road network, where fuel must be flown in. Fuel prices in Canada along the Alaska Highway are also very high. Most stations are self-serve and take Visa and MasterCard; many also accept other credit cards and debit cards.

Many stations remain open until 10 pm, and in the larger towns and cities some stay open 24 hours a day. Most are also open on weekends, particularly along the main highways. In the smallest villages gas may be available only on weekdays, but these settlements typically have only a few miles of roads.

Road Conditions

Driving in Alaska is much less rigorous than it used to be, although it still presents some unusual obstacles. Road construction sometimes creates long delays, so come armed with patience and a flexible schedule. Also, frost damage creates dips in the road that require slower driving.

Moose often wander onto roads and highways. If you encounter one, pull off to the side and wait for the moose to cross. Be especially vigilant when driving at dusk or at night, and keep your eyes open for other moose in the area, since a mother will often cross, followed by one or two calves.

Flying gravel is a hazard along the Alaska and Dalton highways, especially in summer. A bug screen will help keep gravel and kamikaze insects off the windshield, but few travelers use them. Some travelers use clear, hard plastic guards to cover their headlights. (These are inexpensive and are available from garage or service stations along the major access routes.) Don’t cover headlights with cardboard or plywood, because you’ll need your lights often, even in daytime, as dust is thrown up by traffic in both directions.

Unless you plan to undertake traveling on remote highways (especially the Dalton Highway to Prudhoe Bay), you won’t need any special equipment. But be sure that the equipment you do have is in working condition, from tires and spares to brakes and engine. Carrying spare fuses, spark plugs, jumper cables, a flashlight with extra batteries, a tool kit, and an extra fan belt is recommended.

If you get stuck on any kind of road, be careful about pulling off; the shoulder can be soft. In summer it stays light late, and though traffic is also light, one of Alaska’s many good Samaritans is likely to stop to help and send for aid (which may be many miles away). Studded tires are helpful and legal October through April, so ask your rental car agency if that upgrade is available. In winter, pack emergency equipment—a shovel, flashlight, tire chains, high-energy food, a sleeping bag, and extra clothing. Never head out onto unplowed roads unless you’re prepared to walk back.

Cell phones are an excellent idea for travel in Alaska, particularly on the main roads. Alaska doesn’t ban talking on cell phones in cars and doesn’t require using a hands-free set; you just aren’t allowed to text. Check with your provider about service, though, as gaps in service, even on the road system, are the rule rather than the exception.

Rules of the Road

Alaska honors valid driver’s licenses from any state or country. The speed limit on most highways is 55 mph, but much of the Parks Highway (between Wasilla and Fairbanks) and the Seward Highway (between Anchorage and Seward) is 65 mph. State troopers rigorously enforce these limits.

Unless otherwise posted, you may make a right turn on a red light after coming to a complete stop. Seat belts are required on all passengers, and children under age five must be in child safety seats.

On the twisty Seward Highway, you must drive with your headlights on at all times.

State law requires that slow-moving vehicles pull off the road at the first opportunity if leading more than five cars. This is particularly true on the Seward Highway, where RV drivers have a bad reputation for not pulling over. Alaskans don’t take kindly to being held up en route to their favorite Kenai River fishing spot.

RVs

The secret to a successful RV trip to Alaska is preparation. Expect to drive on more gravel and rougher roads than you’re accustomed to. Batten down everything; tighten every nut and bolt in and out of sight, and don’t leave anything to bounce around inside. Travel light, and your tires and suspension system will take less of a beating. Protect your headlights and the grille area in front of the radiator. Make sure you carry adequate insurance to cover the replacement of your windshield.

Most of Alaska’s public campgrounds accommodate trailers, but hookups are available only in private RV parks. Water can be found at most stopping points, but it may be limited for trailer use. Think twice before deciding to drive an RV or pull a trailer during the spring thaw. The rough roadbed can be a trial.

RV Rentals and Tours
ABC Motorhome Rentals. | 907/279–2000, 800/421–7456 | www.abcmotorhome.com.
Alaska Travel Adventures. | 800/323–5757, 907/789-0052 | www.alaskarv.com.
Clippership Motorhome Rentals. | 907/562–7051, 800/421–3456 | www.clippershiprv.com.
Fantasy RV Tours. | 800/952–8496 | www.fantasyrvtours.com.
GoNorth RV Camper Rental. | 907/479–7272, 866/236–7272 | www.gonorth-alaska.com.
Great Alaskan Holidays. | 907/248–7777, 888/225–2752 | www.greatalaskanholidays.com.

Rental Cars

Rental cars are available in most Alaska towns; prices vary wildly. In Anchorage and other major destinations, expect to pay anywhere from $20 to $75 a day for an economy or compact car with automatic transmission and unlimited mileage. Some locally owned companies offer lower rates for older cars. Also, be sure to ask in advance about discounts if you have an AAA or Costco card, or are over age 50.

Rates can be substantially higher for larger vehicles, four-wheel-drive vehicles, SUVs, and vans. (Although the extra space for gear and luggage might be nice, note that you don’t need four-wheel drive or an SUV to navigate Alaska highways.) Rates are also higher in small towns, particularly those off the road system in Southeast Alaska or the Bush. In addition, vehicles in these remote towns are typically several years old, and some would rate as “beaters.”

You must be 21 to rent a car, and rates may be higher if you’re under 25. When picking up a car, non-U.S. residents will need a reservation voucher, a passport, a driver’s license (written in English), and a travel policy that covers each driver. Reserve well ahead for the summer season, particularly for the popular minivans, SUVs, and motor homes. A 10% state tax is tacked on to all car rentals, and there are also local taxes.

Be advised that most rental outfits don’t allow you to drive on some of the unpaved roads such as the Denali Highway, the Haul Road to Prudhoe Bay, and the McCarthy Road. If your plans include any sketchy routes, make sure your rental agreement covers those areas.

Major Agencies
Alamo. | 877/222–9075 | www.alamo.com.
Avis. | 800/331–1212 | www.avis.com.
Budget. | 800/527–0700 | www.budget.com.
Hertz. | 800/654–3131 | www.hertz.com.
National Car Rental. | 877/222–9058 | www.nationalcar.com.

Car-Rental Insurance

If you own a car and carry comprehensive car insurance for both collision and liability, your personal auto insurance will probably cover a rental, but read your policy’s fine print to be sure. If you don’t have auto insurance, then you should probably buy the collision- or loss-damage waiver (CDW or LDW) from the rental company. This eliminates your liability for damage to the car.

Some credit cards offer CDW coverage, but it’s usually supplemental to your own insurance and rarely covers SUVs, minivans, luxury models, and the like. If your coverage is secondary, you may still be liable for loss-of-use costs from the car-rental company (again, read the fine print). But no credit-card insurance is valid unless you use that card for all transactions, from reserving the vehicle to paying the final bill.

You may also be offered supplemental liability coverage; the car-rental company is required to carry a minimal level of liability coverage insuring all renters, but it’s rarely enough to cover claims in a really serious accident if you’re at fault.

U.S. rental companies sell CDWs and LDWs for about $15 to $25 a day; supplemental liability is usually more than $10 a day. The car-rental company may offer you all sorts of other policies, but they’re rarely worth the cost. Personal accident insurance, which is basic hospitalization coverage, is an especially egregious rip-off if you already have health insurance.

Train Travel

The state-owned Alaska Railroad has service connecting Seward, Anchorage, Talkeetna, Denali National Park, and Fairbanks, as well as additional service connecting Anchorage with Whittier, Portage Glacier, and Spencer Glacier. The Alaska Railroad offers one of the last flagstop trains in North America, which you can hop on and off at will through roadless backcountry between Talkeetna and Hurricane Turn. The railroad sells more than 25 different package tours that range from single-day Denali excursions to 10-day tours, which include many excursions along the way between Anchorage and Fairbanks, everything from standard wildlife cruises to helicoptering up to a glacier so you can go dogsledding in summer.

Traveling by train isn’t as economical as traveling by bus, but it is a wonderful way to go; the scenery along the way is spectacular. Some cars have narration, and food is available on board in the dining car and at the café. Certain private tour companies that offer glitzy trips between Anchorage and Fairbanks hook their luxury railcars to the train. Or sign up for the railroad’s Gold Star service on its regular routes—you get confirmed seating in the dome car, priority check-in, and other first-class perks, all for an additional fee, of course.

Reservations

Reservations are highly recommended for midsummer train travel. You can buy tickets over the phone using a credit card. If your reservation is a month or more ahead of time, the company will mail you the tickets; otherwise, you can pick them up at the departure station.

Trains usually leave on time, so be sure to arrive at the station at least 15 minutes prior to departure to ensure that you make it aboard.

Routes

Travel aboard the Alaska Railroad is leisurely: Anchorage to Seward (from $89) takes 4 hours, Anchorage to Denali ($156) takes a little more than 7 hours, and Anchorage to Fairbanks ($224) takes about 12 hours. The trip to Whittier takes a little more than two hours and costs $74 one-way (or $89 round-trip). Children’s tickets typically cost about half of adult tickets. Discounts are offered during the railroad’s shoulder seasons in late May and early September.

For a less expensive alternative, ride one of the public dome cars, owned and operated by the railroad. Seating in the public cars is unassigned, and passengers take turns under the observation dome. The railroad’s public cars are a great place to meet residents.

Trains run daily in summer; service is reduced during shoulder seasons. In winter, the only regularly scheduled trains provide weekend service between Anchorage and Fairbanks, and there are occasional special event trains such as blues trains or Oktoberfest trains. Dining cars are available on all trains.

Gray Line of Alaska offers two-to-five-day packages that include luxury train travel from Anchorage to Fairbanks or vice versa. You can opt for one-way or round-trip travel. Most packages include at least a day of exploring in Denali National Park.

For a scenic and historic five-hour trip between Skagway and Fraser, British Columbia, take the White Pass and Yukon Route, which follows the treacherous path taken by prospectors during the Klondike gold rush of 1897–98. (As this trip is popular with cruise-passenger excursions, advance reservations are strongly recommended.)

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