These usually begin with the postcode, which indicates the town or city and locality. The most common terms are utca (street, abbreviated to u.), út (or útja, avenue), tér (or tere, square) and körút (ring boulevard). You may also encounter rakpart (embankment), sétány (promenade), híd (bridge), köz (lane), hegy (hill) and liget (park). Town centres are signposted Belváros, Városközpont or Centrum. A lakótelep is a high-rise housing estate.
From a practical point of view, travelling with children in Hungary will present few problems. Most of the better-quality hotels are well equipped to cope with children, whilst many restaurants should be able to provide high chairs. Quite a few restaurant menus now incorporate a selection of dishes for kids, though these are invariably a bit samey, while in many places you can also ask for small child’s portions (kisadag). All supermarkets are well stocked with nappies, baby food and other essentials.
The real challenge will be keeping the youngsters entertained. Whilst Budapest has plenty of attractions for kids, you’ll have to use your imagination a little more once outside the capital. The most obvious attraction is Lake Balaton which, with its numerous beaches and clean, shallow waters, is ideal for young children. Some beaches also have water slides and various other play facilities. Hungary also has some wonderful narrow-gauge trains (detailed throughout the book), which are frequently full of screeching kids, while boat trips along the Danube are another possibility. A reliable fall-back option is the trusty zoo, and whilst Hungarian zoos can be rather tatty affairs, kids are sure not to mind. Some larger towns and cities, such as Pécs and Kecskemét, have excellent puppet theatres which parents will probably enjoy as much as their offspring. Especially worth looking out for are those summer festivals which stage puppet shows, including the one in Pécs. More generally, many of Hungary’s excellent festivals have plenty going on to keep kids entertained.
Children under the age of 6 get to travel free on all public transport, with further discounts offered to those between the ages of 6 and 14. Children under the age of 12 are forbidden to ride in the front seat of a car. Some museums offer discounted entry rates to children.
Although Hungary is not the bargain destination it once was, it’s still excellent value on the whole. If you’re on a tight budget, you could get by on 8000Ft (around £25/€30/$40) a day, staying in a hostel or private accommodation (around 3000–4000Ft), eating in cheap diners (1000–2000Ft per meal) and using public transport. Those on a moderate to mid-range budget (cheap to mid-range hotel, better restaurants plus car rental) can expect to spend around £70/€85/$110. If you’re on a higher level of spend (the best hotels and restaurants, plus car rental), count on spending upwards of £100/€120/$150. Some costs can also vary according to where you are in the country. In Budapest, and to a lesser degree around Lake Balaton, they are appreciably higher than elsewhere, and you can expect to pay around a third more for a cup of coffee or a meal there as opposed to one of the other towns.
Museum admission charges are reasonable, the typical fee being around 500–600Ft/€2–3, although some of the major attractions (such as the Esterházy Palace in Fertőd or the Festetics Palace in Keszthely), and many of the Budapest museums, charge in excess of 1000–1500Ft/€4–6. Expect to pay for car rental what you would pay in most other European countries. If you’re planning to stay in Hungary for any length of time, you could invest in the Hungary Card (www.hungarycard.hu; 7200Ft), available from all Tourinform offices, which offers a good range of countrywide discounts, including reductions on certain hotels and restaurants, museum entrances, public transport and special events. The Budapest Card offers similar discounts in the capital.
Tipping is standard practice when paying for meals, drinks and taxi fares (though not when paying for drinks at a bar counter); ten percent or thereabouts is fine, unless the service was not worth it. In restaurants, include the tip when you are paying the bill – say the amount you want to pay and they will give you the change – or give the tip to the staff rather than leaving it on the table. Note that ten percent may have quietly been added to the bill, in which case you don’t have to leave more. It’s also customary to tip bath attendants who unlock your cubicle (100–200Ft is usual), and even medical staff in hospital. If you expect change back, don’t say köszönöm (thank you) when handing over payment, as it will be assumed that you want the change to be kept.
Hungary is one of Europe’s safest countries, and it’s very unlikely you’ll have any problems. However, although violent crime is extremely rare, the threat of theft is present, particularly in Budapest where pickpocketing, car theft and scams directed at tourists are not uncommon. Unfortunately, the incidence of racist attacks is also increasing, with the Hungarian Roma bearing the brunt of physical assaults.
Since the 2006 riots that made international headlines, a small nationalist (even neo-Nazi) hardcore has made regular appearances on Budapest’s streets in protests against the Socialist government. In 2007 and 2008 they attacked the Gay Pride march, and their red-and-white striped flags, the fascist Árpád sáv, are on the fringe of demonstrations held on national holidays, especially March 15 and October 23, when they often head towards the hated state TV building on Szabadság tér, where the Soviet war memorial whips up their fury (see Szabadság tér).
The Hungarian police (rendőrség) have a milder reputation than their counterparts in other Eastern European countries, and are generally keen to present a favourable image. During the summer, tourist police patrol the streets and metro stations of Budapest mainly to act as a deterrent against thieves, and to assist in any problems tourists may encounter. As police occasionally ask to inspect passports and visas, you should carry your documents with you. Most Hungarian police have at least a smattering of German, but rarely speak any other foreign language. To contact the police, call 107; they have a setup with Tourinform to provide translators should this be necessary. Alternatively, you can call the English-speaking 24-hour Police Hotline (1/438-8080).
Parts of Budapest, notably Vaci utca in the Belváros, are notorious for “consume girls”, who target solo male foreigners. A couple of attractive young women (they’re not difficult to spot) will approach you, get talking and, without wasting any time, “invite” you to a bar of their choice. A few drinks later, you’ll find yourself presented with a bill somewhat bigger than you bargained for and be strong-armed into paying up. The bars, and the waiters who work in them, are an integral part of the scam, so bids for escape or complaint are futile, but if you ever do find yourself caught up in such a situation then report it to the police.
Even if you disregard pick-ups and avoid places offering the “companionship of lovely ladies”, there’s a risk of gross overcharging at restaurants or bars which don’t list their prices. Be cautious, and always check how much things cost before ordering. If you do get stung, try insisting that you’ll only pay in the presence of the police. To register a complaint for any scam contact the Bureau of Consumer Affairs, József krt 6 (1/459-4800).
The Hungarian system runs on 220 volts. Round two-pin plugs are used. A standard continental adapter enables the use of 13-amp, square-pin plugs.
Since Hungary signed up to the Schengen agreement in 2007, citizens of the 24 Schengen states can enter Hungary with just an ID card and stay for up to ninety days. Citizens of the UK, Ireland, US, Canada, Australia and New Zealand, and most other European countries, can enter Hungary with just a passport and stay for the same period. South African citizens will need to apply to their local Hungarian consulate for a visa (€60), though note that visas valid for another Schengen country are also valid for Hungary.
Australia and New Zealand Embassy: 17 Beale Crescent, Deakin, Canberra, ACT 2600 02/6282 3226, www.mfa.gov.hu/emb/canberra; consulate: Suite 405 Edgecliffe Centre, 203–233 New South Head Rd, Edgecliffe, Sydney, NSW 2027 02/9328 7859, www.mfa.gov.hu/cons/sydney.
Canada Embassy: 299 Waverley St, Ottawa, Ontario, K2P 0V9 613/230-2717; consulate: 425 Bloor St East, Suite 501, Toronto M4W 3R4 416/923-8981; www.mfa.gov.hu/emb/ottawa.
Ireland Embassy: 2 Fitzwilliam Place, Dublin 2 01/661-2902, www.mfa.gov.hu/emb/dublin.
South Africa Embassy: 959 Arcadia St, Hatfield, Pretoria 0083 012/342-3288, www.mfa.gov.hu/emb/pretoria.
UK Embassy 35b Eaton Place, London SW1 8BY 020/7235-2664, www.mfa.gov.hu/kulkepviselet/uk/hu
US Embassy: 3910 Shoemaker St NW, Washington DC 20008 202/362-6730, www.huembwas.org/; visa enquiries 202/362-6737. Consulates: 223 East 52nd St, New York, NY 10022 212/752-0669, www.mfa.gov.hu/cons/newyork; 500 North Michigan Ave, Suite 750, Chicago IL 60611 312/670-4079, www.mfa.gov.hu/cons/chicago; 11766 Wilshire Blvd, Suite 410, Los Angeles, CA 90025 310/473-9344, www.mfa.gov.hu/cons/los_angeles.
Visitors over the age of 16 are allowed to bring 200 cigarettes (or 250g of tobacco, or fifty cigars), one litre of wine and one litre of spirits into Hungary. There is no import duty on personal effects, though items like laptop computers and video cameras, which are judged to have a high resale value, are liable to customs duty and 25 percent VAT unless you can prove that they are for personal use. Duty-free export limits for tobacco and alcohol are the same as the import limits.
No inoculations are required for Hungary. Standards of public health are good, and tap water is safe to drink. All towns and some villages have pharmacies (gyógyszertár or patika), which normally open Monday to Friday from 9am to 6pm, and on Saturday from 9am until noon or 1pm; signs in the window give the location or telephone number of the nearest all-night (éjjeli or ügyeleti szolgálat) pharmacy.
In emergencies, dial 104 for the Mentők ambulance service, or get a taxi to the nearest hospital (kórház). Hungary’s national health service (OTBF) provides free emergency treatment in any hospital or doctor’s office for citizens of the EU who have the free European Health Insurance Card (EHIC; www.ehic.org.uk), but there is a charge for drugs and non-emergency care. Unfortunately, the standard of hospitals varies enormously. Low morale among medical staff and shortages of beds testify to poor wages and the general underfunding of the health service. It is standard practice to tip doctors and medical staff, and unfortunately this is sometimes the best way of ensuring good treatment.
For non-urgent treatment, tourist offices can direct you to a local medical centre or doctors’ surgery (orvosi rendelő), and your embassy in Budapest will have the addresses of foreign-language-speaking doctors and dentists who will probably be in private (magán) practice.
Sunburn (napszúrás) and insect bites (rovarcsípés) are the most common minor complaints for travellers; sunscreen and repellent are available locally. Mosquitoes can be annoying, but the bug to beware of in forests around Budapest is the kullancs, a tick which bites and then burrows into human skin, causing inflammation of the brain. The risk of one biting you is fairly small, but if you get a bite that seems particularly painful, or are suffering from a high temperature and stiff neck following a bite, it’s worth having it checked out as quickly as possible.
Before travelling to Hungary you’d do well to take out an insurance policy to cover against theft, loss and illness or injury. Before paying for a new policy, check whether you are already covered by your home insurance policy or private medical scheme. A typical travel insurance policy usually provides cover for the loss of baggage, tickets and – up to a certain limit – cash, as well as cancellation or curtailment of your trip. Specialist travel insurance companies offer various levels of cover, or consider the travel insurance deal we offer. If you need to make a claim, you should keep receipts for medicines and medical treatment, and in the event you have anything stolen, you must obtain an official statement from the police.
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Internet access is readily available in just about every town in Hungary, although connection speeds vary and only some have keyboards labelled in English. Wi-fi is becoming increasingly widespread, and certainly in the better hotels this is now almost a standard facility. Elsewhere, you’ll find quite a few cafés, even in the smaller towns, with wireless hotspots. The website www.hotspotter.hu/en lists places in Budapest offering access both for free (ingyenes) and for a fee (téritéses), as do listings magazines such as Pesti Est. Expect to pay 300–500Ft per hour online.
Self-service launderettes (mosoda) are still pretty rare, even in Budapest, but there are a few companies offering service washes such as Top Clean, which has many locations in the capital. Otherwise there is the competent but expensive Hungarian-American Ametiszt, with quite a few outlets throughout the country. Staying in private lodgings, you may be allowed to use your host’s washing machine for a small cost.
Teaching English has traditionally been the main opportunity for work in Hungary, and now, more than ever, language teaching is big business. This is reflected in both the growing number of native speakers working in Budapest and in the number of schools to have opened up outside the capital in recent years.
The most reputable language school in Hungary is International House, which has schools in Budapest, at Vermező út 4 (1/212-4010, www.ih.hu), and Eger, at Mecset utca 3 (36/413-770); their minimum requirement is a CELTA or TESOL qualification, and preferably one year’s experience. They offer a range of teacher training qualifications in Budapest. There are also teaching opportunities at the British Council, 1075 Madách Imre út 13–14 (1/483-2020, www.britishcouncil.hu), whose minimum requirements are a CELTA and two years’ experience.
If you fancy taking up the challenge of learning Hungarian, or wish to brush up on your existing language skills, there are several schools in Budapest catering for foreigners, the best being the Hungarian Language School at VIII, Bródy Sándor utca 4 (1/266-2617, www.magyar-iskola.hu). The school runs a comprehensive range of short- and long-term courses, from beginners to advanced, as well as organizing cultural programmes and workshops.
There are also several organizations arranging summer work camps or exchange programmes in Hungary for people from a large number of countries. Eager to publicize their cultural achievements and earn foreign exchange, the Hungarians also organize summer courses in everything from folk art to environmental studies. Hungary’s major summer school is at Debrecen University (52/532-594, www.nyariegyetem.hu), which has been running for decades and whose main programme focuses on the Hungarian language and the country’s history and culture. Other study subjects include photography (at Vác), fine arts (Zebegény), Esperanto (Gyula), Baroque recorder music (Sopron), jazz (Tatabánya), orchestral music (Pécs and Kecskemét), music-teaching by the Kodály method (Esztergom and Kecskemét), folk art (Zalaegerszeg) and nature studies (Keszthely). Fees include room and board and various excursions and entertainments. Courses typically run for two or four weeks, with a two-week course, including full-board accommodation, costing around €600. They’ve also got a branch in Budapest, at V, Báthory utca 4.II.1 (1/320-5751, www.summerschool.hu/bp).
AFS Intercultural Programs US 1-800/AFS-INFO, Canada 1-800/361-7248, UK 0113/242 6136, Australia 1300/131 736, NZ 0800/600 300, SA 11/447 2673; www.afs.org. Intercultural exchange organization with programmes in over fifty countries.
BTCV (British Trust for Conservation Volunteers) UK 01302/388 883, www.btcv.org.uk. One of the largest environmental charities in Britain, with a programme of national and international working holidays (as a paying volunteer).
Council on International Educational Exchange (CIEE) US 1-800/40-STUDY, www.ciee.org. Leading NGO offering study programmes and volunteer projects around the world.
Earthwatch Institute US and Canada 1-800/776-0188, UK 01865/318 838, Australia 03/9682 6828; www.earthwatch.org. Scientific expedition project that spans over fifty countries with environmental and archeological ventures worldwide.
Post offices (posta) are usually open Monday to Friday 8am to 6pm and Saturday 8am to noon in most towns, and until around 4pm on weekdays (closed Sat) in smaller places. In Budapest you’ll find several offices functioning around the clock. Mail from abroad should be addressed “poste restante, posta” followed by the name of the town; tell your friends to write your surname first, Hungarian-style, and underline it; even this may not prevent your mail being misfiled, so ask them to check under all your names. To collect mail, show your passport and ask “Van posta a részemre?”. For express mail or packages, all the major courier companies, including DHL, Fedex and TNT, have offices in Budapest. Stamps (bélyeg) can be bought at tobacconists or post offices, though the latter are usually pretty crowded and very few staff speak English. Stamps cost around 150Ft for postcards within Europe, and 170Ft for further afield. Note that letters and postcards have different rates, so don’t buy a job lot of stamps.
You may want to supplement the maps in this book with Hungarian town plans (városi-térkép), which also detail main sights and tram and bus routes. These maps cost between 300Ft and 400Ft and are available from Tourinform offices, local tourist agencies or bookshops (könyvesbolt). If you’re travelling by car, the Magyar Auto Atlasz is a must. Available from bookshops, it contains road maps and plans of most towns (though some of the street names may be out of date). Tourinform also issues a variety of useful, free road maps, including one showing Budapest’s one-way streets and bypasses. Many Tourinform offices, as well as bookshops, stock hiking maps (turistatérkép) covering the highland regions, which should be purchased in advance wherever possible, as they may not be available on the spot; see hiking for more information.
Hungary has a long tradition of lively print media, and there are several main broadsheets available, in addition to a range of English-language papers, though these are confined to the capital. Television coverage, meanwhile, differs little from that in other European countries, with foreign cable and satellite television having made huge inroads in recent years.
Generally speaking, Hungarian television is pretty dismal, with state TV (MTV) screening a dreary diet of game shows and low-budget soaps from morning to night. In addition, there are numerous commercial channels such as TV2, the German-Belgian owned RTK Klub and Duna TV, a state-supported channel geared to Hungarian minorities abroad, though these are little better. It is for this reason that many Hungarians subscribe to satellite channels, with whole apartment blocks sharing the cost of installation. Most half-decent hotels have some form of satellite TV, though in many cases they will feature German channels only; only in the classier hotels will you find the full satellite package.
Competing with the largest circulation broadsheet newspaper, Népszabadság (formerly Communist, but now avowedly Socialist), is the liberal-conservative leaning Magyar Nemzet. In addition, there are, of course, plenty of tabloids doing the daily rounds of sensationalism. There’s now a proliferation of Budapest-based English-language weeklies, including the highly readable Budapest Times (www.thebudapesttimes.hu), which also has good cultural content; the Budapest Sun (www.budapestsun.com), a rather lightweight, newsy rag with entertainment and events listings; and the Budapest Business Journal (www.bbj.hu), which covers mainly business and politics. In addition, the Budapest Week (www.budapestweek.com) is a comprehensive online arts and entertainments weekly with excellent listings sections as well as a useful classifieds section. In Budapest you can find most of the English broadsheet papers in the classier hotels, some newsagents and in the street kiosks, though, inevitably, you’ll pay a premium. You could also drop into the British or American cultural centres in Budapest, which usually have a reasonable stock of recent newspapers and magazines. Whilst not in English, Pesti Est is a useful free weekly listings pamphlet available from tourist offices and hotels in most towns and cities throughout the country.
There are plenty of private radio stations, but for news, most listeners tune into foreign stations, especially the BBC World Service (www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice), Radio Canada (www.rcinet.ca), and Voice of America (www.voa.gov).
Hungary’s unit of currency is the forint (Ft or HUF). The forint comes in notes of 200, 500, 1000, 2000, 5000, 10,000 and 20,000Ft, with 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100Ft coins (1Ft and 2Ft coins were withdrawn from circulation in 2008 and amounts are rounded up – or down). Note that many places (particularly hotels in Budapest) quote their prices in euros. At the time of writing, the exchange rate is around 320Ft to the pound sterling, 260Ft to the euro and around 220Ft to the US dollar; for currency rates check out www.xe.com or www.oanda.com. It’s relatively easy to get forints before you travel – you can buy them at exchange offices, or in the UK at post offices, but you will probably have to order them in advance.
As a rule you’re best off changing money in banks, which you can find just about everywhere and which are generally open Monday to Friday between 9am and 3 or 4pm. Otherwise, you can change money at private exchange offices, also found in most towns, or at tourist agencies, such as Ibusz. Very few places charge commission. There are also an increasing number of Automatic Currency Exchange Machines, where you insert your foreign currency in return for forints, a convenient method if there is nowhere open. The exchange rate is usually the same as that offered in banks.
If taking cash, a modest amount of low-denomination euros is advisable, though dollars and pound sterling are also accepted in most places. ATMs are now widespread, and even in the smaller towns you’ll have no problem tracking one down. Credit cards are accepted just about everywhere, including many hotels, restaurants, shops and petrol stations. Note that if your debit or credit card won’t work in a particular ATM, it is worth trying another – not all of the smaller banks are connected to the right global clearing system.
By far the most recognized travellers’ cheques are American Express, whether sterling or dollars. Although it may not be required in all instances, make sure you have your passport when changing traveller’s cheques (or cash). Also note that, in some banks, you may have to show the receipt from the issuing bank, or another cheque to prove continuity of serial numbers.
Shops are generally open Monday to Friday from 10am to 6pm, and on Saturdays from 10am to 1pm; grocery stores and supermarkets open slightly longer hours at both ends of the day. The shopping malls are open Monday to Saturday 10am to 8pm or 9pm, and Sunday 10am to 6pm. There are also a growing number of 24-hour shops (signed “non-stop”, “0–24” or “éjjel-nappali”).
Museums are generally open Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 6pm, and in winter 9 or 10am to 3 or 4pm, though some of the smaller ones may close down altogether out of season. Hungary’s thermal baths are usually open daily from 8 or 9am to 6 or 7pm, although some open at 6am – as most of the baths in Budapest do. Office hours are usually Monday to Friday from 8am to 4pm. There are, of course, exceptions to the above – all specific opening times are detailed throughout the Guide. For the opening hours of post offices, banks and pharmacies, see the relevant entries in this section. Most things in Hungary shut down on the public holidays listed below. When these fall on a Tuesday or Thursday, the Monday before or the Friday after may also become a holiday, and the previous or next Saturday a working day to make up the lost day.
January 1 New Year’s Day
March 15 Independence Day
March/April Easter Monday
May 1 Labour Day
August 20 St Stephen’s Day
October 23 National holiday
November 1 All Saints’ Day
December 25 Christmas. (Since celebrations start on Christmas Eve, many shops will be closed the whole day, and by the afternoon everything closes down.)
December 26
In towns and cities, calls can be made from public phones with 10, 20, 50 and 100Ft coins (minimum call 20Ft), though cardphones are far more common and it’s worth keeping a phonecard (telefonkártya) to hand; cards currently cost 500Ft, 800Ft and 1800Ft and are available from Matáv (the Hungarian telecommunications company) shops, post offices, tobacconists and some hotels. The best card for international calls is the Barangaló card (1000Ft, 2000Ft and 5000Ft), available from post offices, which offers excellent per-minute rates to countries worldwide. To call to a part of Hungary outside the area you are in, dial 06 (which gives a burring tone), followed by the area code and the subscriber’s number.
If you want to use your home mobile phone in Hungary, check with your phone provider first to see whether it will work in the country, and what the call charges will be; US cell phones need to be tri-band to work. If you want to buy a Hungarian SIM card (they cost about 1500Ft) try the outlets such as T-Mobile or Vodaphone, which both have pay-as-you-go offers. Hungarian mobile phone numbers begin with 06-20, 06-30, 06-60 or 06-70, followed by seven digits. Calling a mobile phone number, you have to dial all the numbers, unless you are calling from a phone on the same network, when you drop the first four digits.
When calling Hungary from abroad, dial your international access code, then 36 for Hungary, then the area code (omitting the initial zero where present) and the number. If the Hungarian number begins with 06, omit these two digits. Within Hungary, directory enquiries is on 198, international directory enquiries on 199.
Note that the initial zero is omitted from the area code when dialling the UK, Ireland, Australia and New Zealand from abroad.
Australia international access code + 61
New Zealand international access code + 64
UK international access code + 44
US and Canada international access code + 1
Republic of Ireland international access code + 353
South Africa international access code + 27
The majority of the Hungarian population affiliates itself to the Roman Catholic Church, with the remainder comprising Reformed Protestant (Calvinist), Evangelical Protestant (Lutheran) and other, smaller groups such as Serb and Greek Orthodox. As in many other former Communist countries there has been a steady rise in religious interest, with the church playing a more visible role in everyday life, although, Christmas and Easter aside, it’s rare to see churches full.
Getting into churches (templom), however, may be more problematic. The really important ones charge a small fee to see their crypts and treasures, and may prohibit sightseeing during services (mise or istentisztelet, or Gottesdienst in German). In small towns and villages churches are usually kept locked except for worship in the early morning and/or the evening (between around 6pm and 9pm). A small tip is in order if you rouse the verger to unlock the building during the day; he normally lives nearby in a house marked plébánia. Visitors are expected to wear “decorous” dress – that is, no shorts or sleeveless tops. In Budapest, several churches offer religious services in English (see Budapest “Listings”).
Hungary has a fabulously rich Jewish heritage with over forty synagogues (zsinagóga) across the country, the most outstanding of which are in Budapest – where the Dohány utca synagogue is the largest in Europe – Pécs and Szeged. However, most of Hungary’s synagogues were ransacked during World War II and subsequently left derelict or given over to other functions, and whilst a number have since been reopened and restored, many lie in a desperate state of neglect. Budapest is the only place which retains a sizeable Jewish community, but in most places with a synagogue or Jewish cemetery, it is easy to get directions, although you may have to ask around for a key.
Hungary’s few remaining mosques (djami) now qualify as museums rather than places of worship; Pécs, as well as housing a number of other reminders of the country’s Ottoman past, is home to the only intact mosque in the country.
The Hungarian terms for the main religious denominations are: Katolikus (Catholic), Református (Calvinist), Evangélikus (Lutheran), Görög (Greek Orthodox), Görög-Katolikus (Uniate), Szerb (Serb Orthodox) and Zsidó (Jewish).
Hungary is one hour ahead of GMT, six hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time and nine ahead of Pacific Standard Time. A word of caution: Hungarians express time in a way that might confuse the Anglophone traveller. As in German, 10.30am is expressed as “half eleven” (written 1/211 or f11), 10.45am is “three-quarter-eleven” (3/411 or h11), and 10.15am is “a quarter of eleven” (1/411 or n11).
A large number of free brochures, maps and special-interest leaflets are produced by the Hungarian National Tourist Office, and distributed by its offices abroad and by Tourinform (www.tourinform.hu) – the extensive, and excellent, network of tourist information centres within Hungary. As well as the booklets on hotels and campsites, there are also useful brochures on cultural events and festivals, gastronomy and wine, health tourism, riding, cycling and activity holidays.
Within Hungary, Tourinform has an office in just about every town and city, and in some villages too. Invariably, these have an abundance of information on accommodation (although most do not book rooms), restaurants and activities, and many can also supply you with a free map. Inevitably, opening times vary greatly, depending upon both their location and season. Summer opening times (typically June–Aug) are, generally speaking, weekdays 8 or 9am to 6 or 7pm and weekends 10am to 4 or 5pm, and during the winter Monday to Friday only from 9am to 4 or 5pm.
In addition to Tourinform, you’ll find local tourist agencies in most towns, many of which are regionally based and have a few branches in towns of close proximity; for example, Balatontourist, one of the biggest, has offices all around Lake Balaton. These are, though, primarily useful for booking accommodation in private rooms and apartments. Similarly, tourist agencies’ opening hours vary enormously, with some even open until 8 or 9pm in the summer.
UK Hungarian National Tourist Office, 46 Eaton Place, London SW1X 8AL 020/7823 1055, www.gotohungary.co.uk.
US Hungarian National Tourist Office, Commercial Counsellor’s Office, 350 Fifth Ave, Suite 7107, New York, NY 10118 212/695-1221, www.gotohungary.com.
Australian Department of Foreign Affairs www.dfat.gov.au, www.smartraveller.gov.au.
British Foreign & Commonwealth Office www.fco.gov.uk.
Canadian Department of Foreign Affairs www.international.gc.ca.
Irish Department of Foreign Affairs www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie.
New Zealand Ministry of Foreign Affairs www.mft.govt.nz.
US State Department www.travel.state.gov.
South African Department of Foreign Affairs www.dfa.gov.za.
Hungary has been painfully slow to acknow-ledge the needs of the disabled traveller, and, whilst progress is being made, don’t expect much in the way of special facilities. Not surprisingly, Budapest is the one place where facilities are most advanced, with a number of hotels (albeit the more expensive ones) accommodating specially designed rooms, and an increasing number of museums providing ramps for wheelchairs. For information on public transport accessibility in Budapest, check the “Passengers with disabilities” section of the Budapest transport website, www.bkv.hu, which lists routes where modern low-floored buses operate. The only accessible trams are the #4 and #6 on the Nagykörút. The Airport Shuttle bus is also accessible.
Outside Budapest, however, travellers with disabilities will have an even tougher time of it, although there have been some positive developments, such as at Lake Balaton, where several beaches have been fitted with lifts which can transport disabled people into the water. Furthermore, an increasing number of train stations are implementing ramps and lifts for disabled passengers so they can access platforms and carriages.
The Hungarian Disabled Association (MEOSZ), San Marco utca 76, 1032 Budapest (1/388-5529, www.meosz.hu), which is also the regional office for Eastern Europe, is currently doing a terrific job of trying to raise the profile of disabled people’s needs in Hungary. As well as advising on all aspects of coping with disabilities while in Hungary, they provide information on all tourist facilities in the country specifically equipped for the physically disabled, including hotels, museums, restaurants and transportation. MEOSZ also operates its own special transport service in Budapest whereby, for a fixed payment, a bus equipped with lift or ramp can take you to your chosen destination.