1 Yosemite Valley to Tuolumne Meadows

SCENERY:

TRAIL CONDITION:

CHILDREN: (for kids used to backcountry camping)

DIFFICULTY:

SOLITUDE:

DISTANCE: 28 miles

HIKING TIME: 2–3 days

OUTSTANDING FEATURES: Nevada Falls, an optional side visit to Half Dome, Little Yosemite Valley, Long Meadow, Cathedral Pass, Cathedral Lakes

The difficult first section of the John Muir Trail (JMT) climbs close to 6,000 feet over 28 miles as you make your way from the valley floor to Tuolumne Meadows. However this leg is also full of all the jaw-dropping scenery, sheer cliffs, and alpine meadows that make Yosemite a park virtually unparalleled in beauty. This is one of the least secluded stretches along the JMT, as many day- and weekend-trippers enter the park from both the start and end trailheads. However, even a crowd can’t keep you from enjoying the incredible granite splendor of Yosemite.

Begin by climbing 2,000 feet to the top of the thundering Nevada Falls. From there, continue on a sandy plateau along the Merced River to Little Yosemite Valley, the first legal camping area. Continue ascending and begin following Sunrise Creek. Once you pass the spur trails for Half Dome and Cloud’s Rest, the crowds thin, allowing pleasantly lonely up-river walks. The next big ascent leads to a bench above graceful Long Meadow. The final climb takes you up to Cathedral Pass, which is followed by a long descent through meadows and past subalpine lakes, to the visitor center in Tuolumne Meadow.

DIRECTIONS: Yosemite can be entered via four main gateways. The BIG OAK FLAT ROAD ENTRANCE is on CA 120 West (Big Oak Flat Road) and is the closest western access to Tuolumne Meadows; the ARCH ROCK ENTRANCE on CA 140 (El Portal Road) is east of Merced and the safest bet in inclement weather, as it receives the least amount of snowfall; the SOUTH ENTRANCE is on CA 41 (Wawona Road), north of Fresno; and the weather-dependent TIOGA PASS ENTRANCE is on CA 120 East (Tioga Road) and is the closest eastern access to Tuolumne Meadows. Tioga Road is closed during the winter months due to snow, and sometimes doesn’t open until June or July. While the first three entrances are generally open year-round, all roads are subject to closure; check with the park service by phone at (209) 372-0200 or visit www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/conditions.htm to determine current conditions.

The Happy Isles trailhead is in the southeastern part of Yosemite Valley, 1 mile past Curry Village. Backpackers may leave their cars in the parking lot south of Curry Village near Upper Pines Campground and take the free shuttle bus to Shuttle Stop #16. There is a parking lot at Happy Isles, but it is often full in the summer months.

If you leave a car in Yosemite Valley and need public transit to return to it, YARTS bus service offers a shuttle from Tuolumne Meadows Visitor Center back to the Yosemite Village Visitor Center at 9:10 a.m. during the summer months. Rates are $15 one-way; allow two hours for the journey. Call (888) 89-YARTS or visit www.yarts.com for current rates and schedules.

To drive to Tuolumne Meadows from Happy Isles, head northwest on Big Oak Flat Road for about 30 minutes, then turn right to take Tioga Road (CA 120) about 1 hour through the park to Tuolumne Meadows. This road is closed during snowy conditions. The visitor center parking lot is just off Tioga Road. The park runs a free shuttle-bus service from 7 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. along Tioga Road from Tuolumne Lodge to Olmsted Point from July 4 through Labor Day; the visitor center can be found at Shuttle Stop #6. Tuolumne Meadow can also be accessed via the park’s east entrance at Tioga Pass from CA 120, as noted above.

GPS coordinates		Starting trailhead HAPPY ISLES
UTM zone (WGS84)		11S
Easting		0274558
Northing		4179230
Latitude		N 37°43′57.31″
Longtitude:		W 119°33′31.47″
GPS coordinates		Ending trailhead Tuolumne Meadows Visitor Center
UTM zone (WGS84)		11S
Easting		0291463
Northing		4194284
Latitude		N 37°52′18.65″
Longitude		W 119°22′15.81″

From the Happy Isles Shuttle Stop #16 (4,035 feet), walk along the road crossing the bridge over the Merced River and then turn right to follow the river south along the dusty, well-defined path. Within a quarter mile, pass a sign for the High Sierra Loop that charts a journey that includes the mileage of the entire John Muir Trail to Mount Whitney (211 miles!). Follow the path as it ascends rather steeply along the river canyon and around Sierra Point, a rocky ledge on the southwest ridge of Grizzly Peak that’s named after the Sierra Club. This is a fitting beginning to your hike, as John Muir was the first president elected to this conservation body in 1892.

Within less than a mile, reach a wooden footbridge (4,600 feet) and a view of the base of Vernal Falls. Together, Vernal and Nevada Falls are known as the Grand Staircase, as the Merced River dramatically steps its way down to the valley.

Just across the bridge is a drinking fountain with the last potable water before Tuolumne, restrooms, and a literal army of brazen snack-marauding squirrels. Shortly after leaving the footbridge, watch for a junction. The Mist Trail continues on the left, following the river steeply up wet and sometimes slippery granite steps in the spray of Vernal Falls. We recommend turning right to follow the John Muir Trail (JMT) up a longer, more gradual climb suitable for backpackers. This route follows the canyon’s south wall under the shade of conifers and bigleaf maples before rejoining the shorter and steeper Mist Trail at the top of Nevada Falls.

Shortly after the switchbacks begin, a pack trail enters from the right; ignore the pack trail and continue ascending through Douglas fir and oak trees. After 2 miles, reach Clark Point (5,481 feet), so named for Galen Clark, one of the first guardians of Yosemite National Park and the first to discover the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoia near Wawona. From here, soak in views of the falls, Mount Broderick, and the Liberty Cap. Continuing up, the trail begins to hug the moist canyon wall, sometimes literally dripping with water in the spring and early summer. The path flattens and then dips a bit before emerging at a footbridge (5,980 feet) atop the falls. Look for the iron-railed observation terrace located off of a spur trail just north of the river. Many people miss the awesome overlook, which is worth a visit to really get a feel for the height.

Once you’ve had a chance to soak your feet and battle the squirrels and stellar blue jays who want your peanuts, continue heading northeast on the rock-lined path. Within ten minutes, you’ll pass a junction with the Mist Trail as well as some composting toilets.

Continue to climb gently northeastward to Little Yosemite Valley (6,140 feet). Shortly, the path turns dusty, and after about a mile the trail curves downhill toward the campground. At a Y juncture, notice that you can continue either way to the campsites; the split trail rejoins near the composting toilets of the site. The path that heads right is considered the official JMT route and parallels the Merced River. The path that heads left is the more direct route for hikers continuing to Half Dome. Either trail leads to the composting toilets and backpacker sites of Little Yosemite Valley in just over half a mile. This is the first legal place to set up camp after leaving the valley floor. It’s hardly an isolated spot, so be prepared for crowds.

According to park rangers, more than 20 percent of all backcountry campers in Yosemite pass through Little Yosemite Valley. Where there are backpacks laden with delicious snacks, bears soon follow. This area is notorious for bears bold enough to swipe your food off of a stump while you’re pitching your tent.

To help manage the impact of so many visitors, rangers have constructed designated fire rings, bear boxes, and composting toilets. Please use these to lessen the effect of high traffic in the backcountry. During the summer months, a ranger lives just east of the campground on the other side of Sunshine Creek; a spur trail to the station departs the JMT shortly after leaving the campground.

After leaving Little Yosemite Valley (6,140 feet), climb moderately for about one hour along the 2.2 miles leading up to the juncture with the Half Dome trail (7,020 feet). If you want to make the optional 4-mile, 2,000-foot-elevation-gain, round-trip climb, leave your pack here. Be sure to stow any food in bear-proof cans and stash your pack out of sight. The likelihood of anyone taking your things is slim, but there’s no reason to tempt fate.

From the juncture with the Half Dome trail, continue climbing and within a half mile, pass the trail leading up to Cloud’s Rest (7,210 feet). After this point, the scenery opens to sweeping views of the Cascade Cliffs and Bunnell Point, and the trail traffic diminishes. In the mile following the juncture, enter a forested area dotted with red firs and dogwoods along Sunrise Creek. There are a few camp spots here for anyone who wants to avoid the crowds at Little Yosemite Valley. The views here are stupendous as well.

After fording Sunrise Creek, pass through a relatively level wash area often layered with a carpet of wildflowers in the spring and early summer. Enter a lush area with ferns, lupines, and beautiful wildflowers such as baby blue eyes and columbine along the creek. Shortly thereafter, cross the first of two junctions, one for Merced Lake and a second for the Forsyth Trail. Continue to follow signs for the JMT, fording Sunrise Creek a handful of times. Over the next 4.5 miles, the trail ascends gradually at first, but eventually begins two grueling sets of switchbacks to reach a ridge along Sunrise Mountain with northern views to Cathedral Peak.

Descend the eastern side of the mountain into gorgeous and appropriately named Long Meadow. Early in the season, the mosquitoes can be brutal here, so consider striking camp on a high plateau before descending or continuing past the meadow about a mile past the High Sierra Camp en route to Cathedral Pass.

As you approach the meadow, look for Sunrise High Sierra Camp (9,320 feet), one of five High Sierra Camps that Yosemite offers. The camps are generally spaced 6 to 10 miles apart, where a hot meal, a canvas tent cabin with a bed, and a pack lunch await weary hikers. For more information and current rates and reservations, call (559) 253-5674 or make reservations online at www.yosemitepark.com. Just before you reach the tent cabins, there are a number of backpacker sites that share the fabulous views of the snowcapped peaks of the Clark Range and the namesake sunrises that cast their morning light over the meadow. Backpackers have to forgo hot showers, but composting toilets and bear boxes are located here.

From Sunrise High Sierra Camp, walk along the flat meadow until you reach a junction with the Merced Lake Trail. Begin a gradual ascent up the eastern side of Tresidder Peak, climbing for 30 to 45 minutes to your first view of Echo and Matthes peaks. Another 15 minutes brings you to a stop-worthy panoramic viewing point (9,940 feet) with sun-soaked granite slabs that beckon for a sit and snack. Soak in the splendid grandeur of the Clark Range and the peaks of Tresidder, Cathedral, and Echo.

Drop down to Cathedral Pass (9,700 feet) after rounding the base of Columbia Finger, and then continue your descent through a series of meadows and lakes. In spring, the wildflower display is unbelievable. Upper Cathedral Lake (9,585 feet) is the first in a series of lakes lying in the shadow of their grand namesake. There are some campsites here, but the area is an extremely popular weekend backpacker destination from Tuolumne and can be quite crowded.

Leave the lake and keep descending for 0.75 miles until you pass a sign for Cathedral Lake (Lower Cathedral Lake; 9,288 feet). For a short side trip, follow this spur trail for half a mile through pine woods and along the river to another lovely water jewel in the meadows, perfect for swimming on a blistering day. There are plenty of little bathing nooks along the river as you approach. No camping is allowed at this lower lake.

From the juncture (9,430 feet) with Lower Cathedral Lake, continue downhill on the sandy path to Tuolumne’s visitor center (8,630 feet). While it’s easy to feel like a horse returning to the barn at this point (or to a cold drink or hot shower), try to savor the granite views and gentle meadows of your descent into Tuolumne. It’s a stunning plunge with a few rollers through meadows colored with iris, mountain hemlock, and lodgepole pine woodland. Expect crowded trails, though, packed with day hikers making their way to the lakes.

Arrive at a confusing junction near CA 120. To reach the visitor center, the backpacker’s camp, or the continuation of the JMT, turn right and follow signs to the Tuolumne Meadows High Sierra Camp and Glen Aulin. Cross Budd Creek on a footbridge, and at the next juncture either head northward (left) to approach the visitor center or southward (right) to follow signs to the campground.

PERMIT INFORMATION: To reserve an overnight permit originating in Yosemite, call the Yosemite Wilderness Center at (209) 372-0740 (8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., Monday through Friday), or reserve online at www.yosemite.org/visitor/wild.html. You can also mail an application to Wilderness Reservations, Yosemite Association, P.O. Box 545, Yosemite, CA 95389. For any of these methods, you will need to provide the following information: your name; address; daytime phone number; number of people in the party; method of travel (foot); number of stock (if applicable); start and end dates; entry and exit trailheads (Happy Isles entry, Tuolumne Meadows exit); principal destination; credit-card number and expiration date, money order, or check for a nonrefundable $5-per-person processing fee.

If you haven’t reserved a permit in advance, you could also try for a walk-in permit at the Yosemite Valley Wilderness Center, located in Yosemite Village next to the post office (open seasonally 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.). About 40 percent of all permits are set aside for walk-ins, but these go quickly during the summer months.