6 South Lake to Roads End in Kings Canyon National Park

SCENERY:

TRAIL CONDITION:

CHILDREN:

DIFFICULTY:

SOLITUDE:

DISTANCE: 58 miles

HIKING TIME: 6–8 days

OUTSTANDING FEATURES: Bishop Pass, Dusy Basin, Le Conte Canyon, Golden Staircase, Palisade Lakes, Mather Pass, Lake Marjorie, Pinchot Pass, Castle Domes, Mist Falls

This east-to-west section is laden with high-altitude passes for hungry peak-baggers. With alpine lakes, craggy peaks, and flower-strewn meadows rewarding considerable effort, this is high drama, Kings Canyon–style. The journey begins at an already formidable altitude, so rugged above-treeline views are within grasp almost immediately. Crest Bishop Pass (11,972 feet) and soak in the silent grandeur of the peaks of the Inconsolable Range. Summit Mather Pass (12,100 feet) via cleverly camouflaged switchbacks up a seeming pile of rubble, and finally reach the highest prize of the section: Pinchot Pass (12,130 feet) where the thin air does not spoil a rich view. A long descent past meadows, aspen groves, and thundering waterfalls leads to end of the road at the namesake canyon of Kings Canyon National Park.

DIRECTIONS: SOUTH LAKE TRAILHEAD—The closest town to the South Lake trailhead is Bishop, on US 395, 39 miles southeast of Mammoth Lakes and 15 miles north of Big Pine. From Bishop, drive west 15 miles on CA 168 (West Line Street) to the South Lake Road junction. Turn left and travel 7 miles to the Bishop Pass trailhead and parking. Overnight parking is found in the upper lot.

You can take public transit as far as Bishop via Inyo Mono Transit’s CREST bus, but you will need to walk or hitchhike the remaining 22 miles to the trailhead. The bus travels north on US 395 between Bishop and Reno via Mammoth Lakes on Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday, and south between Mammoth Lakes and Ridgecrest on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. There is also limited Saturday service between Bishop and Mammoth Lakes only. For Mammoth Lakes transit info, please see directions for Tuolumne Meadows to Red’s Meadow. Rates and routes are subject to frequent change; call ahead for information and reservations at (760) 872-1901 or (800) 922-1930. More information can be found on the Web at www.countyofinyo.org/transit/CRESTpage.htm.

Lastly, you could contact the friendly folks at Mammoth Shuttle by phone at (760) 934-6588 to arrange for private transit on demand to or from the trailhead. This is a pricey option but may be worth it for larger groups. Prices range considerably from $100 (from one eastern-Sierra trailhead to another) to $600 (from Mammoth to Kings Canyon). The price to go from Mammoth to Yosemite averages $200 (per eight-passenger shuttle, not per person).

ROADS END TRAILHEAD—Roads End lies at the head of the canyon for which the park is named. From Fresno, head 53 miles east on CA 180 to Kings Canyon’s Big Stump Entrance, continue straight through the park, dropping more than 3,000 feet as the road curves along the South Fork of the Kings River to Grant Grove Village. It’s another 30 miles to Cedar Grove Village, and Roads End lies another 6 miles east at its terminus.

Public transit is sorely lacking in the park. Your best bet would likely be to hitchhike to Fresno (serviced by Amtrak and Greyhound) or to contact Mammoth Shuttle for a trailhead-to-trailhead ride.

GPS coordinates		Starting trailhead SOUTH LAKE
UTM zone (WGS84):		11S
Easting		0361118
Northing		4115144
Latitude		N 37°10′20.67″
Longitude		W 118°33′51.77″
GPS Trailhead Coordinates		Ending trailhead ROADS END
UTM zone (WGS84):		11S
Easting		0358790
Northing		4073406
Latitude		N 36°47′40.82″
Longitude		W 118°35′4.16″

From the parking lot, follow a rocky trail on the east side of South Lake (9,768 feet) and cross two small footbridges. Descend briefly and then begin climbing through lodgepole pines and fir trees with Hurd Peak looming to the south. Bishop Pass, the first of three high-altitude passes in this journey, waits patiently a little more than 5 miles and 2,000 feet ahead.

Continue through intermittent aspen groves and after less than a mile, bear left away from the Treasure Lakes Trail to continue ascending southeast. After another half mile, ignore the Marie Louise Lakes Trail and bear right to travel south. Repeat this pattern with the Bull Lake Trail shortly thereafter. After 2 miles and 900 feet of climbing from the trailhead, reach the southern end of Long Lake, nestled beneath Chocolate Peak, where high-altitude campsites may be found (10,753 feet). Enjoy spectacular views southward to Mount Goode. Despite the relatively low mileage, it’s wise to acclimate to the altitude before pushing onward.

Follow the eastern shore of Long Lake, ignoring the side trail to Ruwau Lake, and bear right to continue a southward ascent through rocky tundra past Timberline Tarns, a chain of small glacially carved lakelets. Enjoy northeastern views of towering Hurd Peak upon reaching Saddlerock Lake (11,128 feet), and cross its outlet on a footbridge. From here, it’s a 2-mile push, some of it seemingly near vertical, through stunted white-bark pines and the occasional snowfield to Bishop Pass (11,972 feet), resting high above Bishop Lake. Enjoy backward northern views of the Inconsolable Range and the arid Owens Valley, while ahead lie the plunging canyons of Kings Canyon National Park.

Leaving John Muir Wilderness, descend into Kings Canyon along a sandy granite trail westward toward lake-filled Dusy Basin. Le Conte Canyon lies some 6 miles, and more than 3,000 feet, below. The first campsites are about a mile below the pass on a side trail toward the largest northernmost lake. From the main trail, descend steeply down two sets of switchbacks through the sparse forest, several river crossings, and a lovely hanging valley to the junction with the John Muir Trail (JMT). A ranger station (8,750 feet; manned from June to mid-September) sits just west of this trail crossing, and there are lovely wooded campsites along the river just below the station.

From this junction, turn left to descend southward on the JMT following the Middle Fork Kings River. Shortly after the ranger station, cross a wooden and steel footbridge over Dusy Branch and continue descending through alternating aspen groves and wood thickets. Manzanita encroaches on the narrow trail, so long pants are advised for this section. Arrive at grassy Grouse Meadows, where camping is good and plentiful as long as the area is not closed for restoration, as it is occasionally. Three miles from the ranger station, come to a junction with the trail to Roads End (8,070 feet). Ignore this and turn left to follow the JMT east up a small rise and continue climbing gently toward Deer Meadow. It’s advised, however, to pump water before beginning this dry 800-foot climb.

Cross a verdant pasture of long grasses and traverse a sandy rise through sweet-smelling sage bushes and horsetail ferns to reach Deer Meadow, thick with lodgepole pines. Campsites begin appearing at the northern end of the meadow and continue along its length. In the buggy season, Deer Meadow can feel like a dark and murky swamp, and it’s best to wait until the trail rises almost to the end of the meadow for more-open sites with better access to water and fire pits. This is the last place to camp before climbing up to the Palisade Lakes, so bear this in mind before forging ahead.

Leaving Deer Meadow, ford Glacier Creek and begin the climb of the famed Golden Staircase, an ascent of 1,700 feet over 3 miles with no accessible campsites. As climbs go, it’s incredibly well graded, and the consistent pitch allows for a certain rhythm in your hiking. In fact, it’s impossible not to appreciate the beauty of this engineering feat that allows you (hopefully) to maintain a sense of humor while ascending Mather Pass. At times it seems impossible to determine how the trail will wind its way up the steep granite peaks surrounding you. Interestingly, these granite cut stairs were the last leg of the JMT to be completed. Fantastic views back toward the valley provide the perfect excuse for a break to breathe in the fragrant sage. Currants and wildflowers line the staircase in a pleasantly distracting manner as well. Ascend the first 1,000 feet in less than a mile and a half up carefully carved switchbacks. Try to climb early or in the late afternoon before intense sun bakes the stone.

As the switchbacks lessen, come to a meadow surrounded by the soaring peaks of the Palisades Group, where Lower Palisade Lake (10,613 feet) hides behind a low rise. Surrounded by a cirque, the lake is deep and beautiful, but doesn’t offer much in the way of camping on the windy ridge. Skirt the lake briefly before beginning another rocky, switchbacked climb. As you gain altitude, Upper Palisade Lake (10,679 feet) reveals herself on the rise, less than 100 feet higher than her sister lake. The trail doesn’t actually descend to the lake, but there is nice protected camping amid the dwarfed white-bark pines, and plentiful water from Palisade Creek.

Continue rising and traverse a stream at 11,200 feet. This is a good place to stop for water and sunscreen, as the next leg consists of dry, exposed, rocky switchbacks. The landscape is a barren one of granite shards and a few snowmelt tarns. Be sure to savor views back toward Palisade Lakes. It’s difficult to see the path ahead as it switchbacks smoothly up and back: an optical illusion of boulder-sized granite chunks. At times the trail travels over fist-sized rocks and other times more finely crushed pebbles. Named for the first head of the National Park Service, Stephen Mather would have enjoyed the endless views from his beautiful, silent, and stark namesake pass (12,100 feet).

Descend sharply along zigzagged switchbacks to desolate Upper Basin. After a mile or so, the grade eases and it’s a moderate 5-mile descent past glittering tarns to treeline. The desert rockscape, with the stately presence of aptly named Cardinal Mountain, eventually gives way to lush woodland as it parallels the South Fork Kings River. As the river bends southwest, the trail heads southeast on the trail. Use caution in this river crossing. There are good campsites on both sides of the river with rotating areas closed for restoration.

After the river crossing, the trail gently rises and fords the creek again (difficult in early spring). Begin ascending more steeply via pine-shaded switchbacks where there is no camping available. At the junction with the Taboose Pass Trail, continue straight while the grade eases up, and enter a bucolic open meadow. After a quarter mile, reach another junction with trails leading northeast to Taboose Pass and southwest to Bench Lake. Ignore these and continue walking up the peaceful valley, keeping the river on your left. There is excellent camping among these mountain tarns and grassy meadowland.

Keep ascending past multiple lakelets, including bluer-than-blue Lake Marjorie (11,132 feet), whose sparkling deep recesses lie ringed by a cirque on one side and by trees on the other. Climb away from Marjorie on steep switchbacks. The lake on the shelf above Marjorie is a pure turquoise to Marjorie’s electric azure.

Unlike Mather and Muir, the approach to Pinchot Pass is less of a clear switchback to the top, and there are many deceptively false summits as the trail winds briefly north before the final ascent. Follow a series of shale zigzags up to the col sitting between eastern Mount Wynne and western Crater Mountain, admiring the fireweed tucked into unlikely crevices. When finally reached, the colors of Pinchot Pass (12,130 feet) are arresting: bright yellow-green lichen stands out on the gray rock, while the mountains ahead are a tempered warm rust color.

Descend steep serpentine loose rock switchbacks. As the grade lessens, enjoy a rolling downhill through a landscape of dwarfed and stunted trees searching for proper nutrients in the reddish soil. Glittering alpine lakes nestle in the arms of towering granite peaks, providing excellent camping with a view.

The switchbacks steepen once again shortly before passing the junction with the Sawmill Pass Trail (10,346 feet). Good campsites can be found along Woods Creek. Here, the descent becomes gentler again, following the river on a high ridgeline as the trail sinks farther into the lush canyon.

Near the confluence of Woods Creek and the South Fork Kings River, reach a junction with the trail to Roads End. Veer right to leave the JMT, which continues on a dramatic suspension bridge over Woods Creek to an established campsite with bear boxes. Instead continue a gradual rollicking descent with the grand towers of Castle Domes on the right and Woods Creek on the left.

The trail continues rolling downward through the narrow canyon walls. Intermittent campsites are easily found amid the meadows and aspen groves, although it’s a bit of a struggle to get to the water due to streamside shrubs. Cross the South Fork Kings River on an impressively robust stone-and-steel bridge built in 2006 to reach the campsites of Upper Paradise Valley (6,876 feet), where camping is restricted to one night in designated spots in an effort to help this fragile area recover from frequent use. There are bear boxes, a pit toilet, and numbered sites at each Paradise Valley campground (lower, middle, and upper). Drop another 2.2 miles through blackberry bushes and open meadow to Middle Paradise Valley (6,619 feet), where sugar and ponderosa pines provide shade and there’s a sandy riverside beach. Travel a final 1.1 miles downhill through ferns and forest to Lower Paradise Valley (6,586 feet). The streamside campsites on the left are the nicest in terms of shade and proximity to water. Bear sightings are frequent here.

Leaving Lower Paradise Valley, the trail becomes steeper and rockier along the river. The descent to Mist Falls (5,563 feet) is an excruciating series of granite stairs that mock tired knees. The reward is a magnificent display of thundering cataracts and cooling mist, as per the waterfall’s name. Continue down and turn right at the junction with the Bubb’s Creek Trail. From here, it’s a flat 2-mile walk to the trailhead, but the wide sandy road can be scorching on a summer day as it absorbs and reflects the heat. Cross Copper Creek on a small footbridge to reach the parking lot and ranger station at Roads End (5,036 feet). At the parking lot there are decadently luxurious amenities such as a bathroom with a pit toilet, toilet paper (usually), a water spigot, some picnic tables, garbage-disposal cans, and bear boxes. Ah, civilization.

PERMIT INFORMATION: Permits that originate in the Inyo National Forest can be reserved by contacting the Wilderness Permit Reservation Office (351 Pacu Lane, Suite 200, Bishop, CA 93514). They are open 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. daily from June 1 to October 1, and Monday through Friday during the rest of the year. You can reserve over the phone at (760) 873-2483, by fax at (760) 873-2484, or by mail. You will need to provide the following information: name; address; daytime phone number; number of people in the party; method of travel (foot); number of stock (if applicable); start and end dates; entry and exit trailheads (South Lake entry, Roads End exit); principal destination; credit-card number and expiration date, money order, or check for a nonrefundable $5-per-person processing fee.

You can then pick up your permit at the White Mountain Ranger Station (798 North Main Street, Bishop, CA 93514). Office hours are 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.; (760) 873-2500. About 60 percent of permits are reservable; the remainder are set aside for walk-in permits.