ARRIVAL IN SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA
Map: Hotels & Restaurants in Santiago de Compostela
MEMORABLE EATING IN THE OLD CENTER
GOOD VALUES AWAY FROM THE TOURIST CENTER
The best destination in the northwestern province of Galicia, Santiago de Compostela rivals Granada as the most magical city in Spain. While Granada reminds visitors of Spain’s Moorish past, Santiago de Compostela has long had a powerful and mysterious draw on travelers: More than a thousand years’ worth of Christian pilgrims have trod the desolate trail across the north of Spain just to peer up at the facade of its glorious cathedral.
But there’s more to this city than pilgrims and the remains of St. James. Contrary to what you’ve heard, the rain in Spain does not fall mainly on the plain—it falls in Galicia. This “Atlantic Northwest” of Spain is like the Pacific Northwest of the United States, with hilly, lush terrain that enjoys far more precipitation than the interior, plus dramatic coastal scenery, delicious seafood, fine local wines, and an easygoing ambience. The Spanish interior might be arid, but the northwest requires rain gear. Even the tourists here have a grungy vibe: Packs of happy hippie pilgrims seek to find themselves while hiking the ancient Camino de Santiago from France (described in the previous chapter).
You’ll see few signs of the country’s financial problems in Santiago, where many locals work to serve the constant flow of tourists. As a pilgrim mecca, the city’s accommodations, eateries, and sights are geared toward low-budget travelers. Santiago’s top sight—the cathedral—is free to enter, as are many of its other attractions.
Santiago has a generally festive atmosphere, as travelers from every corner of the globe celebrate the end of a long journey. It’s a sturdy city that, in its day, was one of Europe’s most important religious centers, built of granite and later turned mossy green by the notorious weather.
Santiago’s biggest downside is its location: Except by air, it’s a very long trip from any other notable stop in Spain. But if you decide to visit, you—like a millennium’s worth of pilgrims before you—will find it’s worth the trek. You can get a good feel for Santiago in a day, but a second day relaxing on the squares makes the long trip here more worthwhile.
The city has one real sight: the cathedral, with its fine museum and the surrounding squares. The rest of your visit is for munching seafood, pilgrim-watching, and browsing the stony streets. The highlight of a visit just may be hanging out on the cathedral square at about 10:00 to welcome pilgrims completing their long journey.
Santiago is built on hilly terrain, with lots of ups and downs. The tourist’s Santiago is small: You can walk across the historical center, or Zona Monumental, in about 20 minutes. There you’ll find the city’s centerpiece—the awe-inspiring cathedral—as well as several other churches, a maze of pretty squares, a smattering of small museums, a bustling restaurant scene, and all of my recommended hotels.
The historical center is circled by a busy street that marks the former location of the town wall (easy to see on a map). Outside of that is the commercial city center—a modern, urban district called Céntrico. A 10-minute walk through Céntrico takes you to the train station.
The Santiago de Compostela TI is at Rúa do Vilar 63 (daily 9:00-21:00; Nov-April until 19:00 and closed Sat-Sun 14:00-16:00; tel. 981-555-129, www.santiagoturismo.com). The TI rents city audioguides and runs two-hour walking tours of the cathedral and surrounding plazas (most weekend afternoons in summer), and may also offer gastronomy tours and nighttime tours. I’d skip the tourist train, which does a pointless little loop around the outskirts.
Conveniently next door and sharing the same address is the Turismo do Porto e Norte de Portugal, which offers information about destinations just across the border in Portugal, plus tips on how to get there (Tue-Sat 10:30-14:00 & 15:00-19:00, closed Sun-Mon, tel. 981-526-559, www.portoenorte.pt).
Up the street at Rúa do Vilar 30, the regional TI gives visitors several options to explore Galicia outside of Santiago (Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-20:00, Sun 10:00-15:00; off-season Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00, Sat 10:30-19:00, closed Sun, tel. 981-584-081, www.turismo.gal).
There’s luggage storage at the bus station, but not at the train station.
By Train: Santiago’s train station is on the southern edge of the modern Céntrico district. You’ll find ATMs, a cafeteria, car-rental offices, and a helpful train information office. To reach the center of town, leave the station and walk up the grand granite staircase, jog right, cross the busy Avenida de Lugo, and walk uphill for 10 minutes on Rúa do Hórreo to Praza de Galicia, a few steps from the historical center. A taxi from the station to your hotel will cost you about €8.
By Bus: From the bus station, northeast of the cathedral, it’s about a 15-minute, mostly downhill walk to the center. Exit the station straight ahead on Rúa de Ánxel Casal and go to the Praza da Paz roundabout. Turn left here onto Rúa da Pastoriza; follow it as it changes its name to Basquiños and Santa Clara before becoming Rúa de San Roque, which will bring you into town. I’d rather hop on bus #5 and take it to the market or to Praza de Galicia (to reach the historical center from here, walk uphill to cross busy Rúa da Senra—Alameda Park will be on your left). Taxis, visible from the bus stop, whisk you to the center for about €6.
By Plane: Santiago’s small airport (airport code: SCQ) is about six miles from the city center. A bus connects the airport to the bus station, train station, and then to Praza de Galicia at the south end of the historical center (€3, catch bus at exit by car rentals, 2/hour, 6:15-24:35, 45 minutes, www.empresafreire.com). A taxi into town costs €21.
By Car: There are only two freeway off-ramps to the city. The north exit (#67) is best for the airport and the old center. For car rental return at the train station, take SC-20 south and follow estación ferrocarril signs. If continuing your journey, note that parking is “aparcadoiro” in Galego. The parking lot closest to the cathedral is 400 yards up Avenida de Xoán XXIII.
Closed Days: Many museums (except church-related ones) are closed on Monday. The colorful produce market is closed on Sunday, slow on Monday, and busiest on Thursday and Saturday mornings.
Church Hours: The cathedral is open 7:00-21:00 without a siesta; other major churches in Santiago open around 9:00, and minor ones have limited visiting hours. Special Masses for pilgrims are held daily at noon in the cathedral. There are big Masses at the high altar of the cathedral on Sunday.
Festivals: Late July is the main party time in Santiago, when the city hosts a world music festival and impromptu concerts all over town, along with fireworks on July 24 and 31. During this time, the royal family (or their representative) attends Mass in Santiago, staying in a suite at the fancy parador overlooking the square. Crowds and prices increase in Holy Years (when the Feast of St. James—July 25—falls on a Sunday, next in 2021). Indoor and outdoor summer concerts in the old town are held during the Music in Compostela festival in early August. In early October, an international film festival called Curtocircuito offers showings at various venues throughout the city (tel. 948-542-303, www.curtocircuito.org).
Shopping: Jet, the black gemstone (called azabache in Spanish) made from decaying wood placed under extreme pressure, is believed to keep away evil spirits—and to bring in tourist euros. Along with jet, silver has long been important in Santiago...and continues to be a popular item for tourists. Although the Galicians are a superstitious people and have beliefs about good and bad witches, the made-in-Taiwan witches you see in souvenir shops around the city are a recent innovation. Maybe the best souvenir is a simple seashell, like the ones pilgrims carry with them along the Camino.
Laundry: Axiña is a 15-minute walk from the historical center (self-service and full-service options, Mon-Fri 8:30-13:00 & 16:00-20:00, Sat 8:30-13:00, closed Sun, Rúa de Ramón Cabanillas 1, tel. 981-591-323).
Local Guides: It’s easy to visit the cathedral and nearby sights on your own with the information in this book, but if you have the extra cash, you could hire a guide (about €100 Mon-Fri, €110 Sat-Sun, 3.5 hours). Patricia Furelos (mobile 630-781-795, patriciafurelos@yahoo.es) and Manuel Ruzo (mobile 639-888-064, manuel@artnaturagalicia.com) are equally good.
Best Views: There are beautiful views back toward the cathedral from Alameda Park. From the cathedral, follow Rúa do Franco to the end. Swing right into the park and continue up Paseo de Santa Susana to the viewpoint (mirador) along Paseo da Ferradura. You can enjoy another excellent view from the very top of the park (clearly marked on TI maps).
Santiago’s cathedral (Catedral de Santiago) isn’t the biggest in Spain, nor is it the most impressive. Yet it’s certainly the most mystical, exerting a spiritual magnetism that attracts people from all walks of life and from all corners of the globe. (To more fully appreciate the pilgrim experience, read the first part of the previous Camino de Santiago chapter before visiting the cathedral.)
Exploring one of the most important churches in Christendom, you’ll do some time travel, putting yourself in the well-worn shoes of the millions of pilgrims who have trekked many miles to this powerful place.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 7:00-21:00; main entrance closed during restoration—use temporary entrance on Praza das Praterías; www.catedraldesantiago.es.
Tours: One-hour guided tours, often in Spanish only, allow visits to separate areas (archaeological excavations—€10, daily at 16:00; cathedral roof—€12, daily on the hour, 10:00-13:00 & 16:00-19:00). Rooftop visits often, but not always, have one group per day in English—ask at ticket counter.
Baggage Check: Large backpacks aren’t allowed in the church and small bags require a security check. Leave large bags at your hotel or check them at the bus station. Pilgrims with a certificate will find free baggage storage downhill at the Office for Pilgrims (official address is Rúa das Carretas 33, but entrance is around the corner on Rúa Domingo García Sabell, see map).
Self-Guided Tour• Begin facing the cathedral’s main facade, in the big square called...
Find the pavement stone with the scallop shell right in the middle of this square. For more than a thousand years, this spot has been where millions of tired pilgrims have taken a deep breath and thought to themselves: “I made it!” To maximize your chance of seeing pilgrims, be here at about 10:00—the last stop on the Camino de Santiago is two miles away, and pilgrims try to get to the cathedral in time for the 12:00 Mass. It’s great fun to chat with pilgrims who’ve just completed their journey. They seem to be very centered and content with the experience, and tuned in to the important things in life...like taking time to talk with others. You’ll likely see pilgrims who met along the way arrive separately, ecstatically reunite, then leave together, having found each other at the grand finale. Every time I visit, I find myself taking photos for people and agreeing to email copies to them. Even if you’re shy, a fun and easy way to meet pilgrims is by offering to capture their personal triumphs.
• Before heading into the cathedral, take a spin around the square (start facing the cathedral).
To your left is the Hospital of the Catholic Monarchs (Hostal dos Reis Católicos), now a fancy hotel. Isabel and Ferdinand came to Santiago in 1501 to give thanks for successfully forcing the Moors out of Granada. When they arrived, they found many sick pilgrims at the square. (Numerous pilgrims came to Santiago to ask for help in overcoming an illness, and the long walk here often only made their condition worse.) Isabel and Ferdinand decided to build this hospital to give pilgrims a place to recover on arrival (you’ll see their coats of arms flanking the intricately carved entryway). It was free and remained a working hospital until 1952—many locals were born there—when it was converted into a fancy parador and restaurant (see “Sleeping in Santiago” and “Eating in Santiago,” later). The modern white windows set against the old granite facade might seem jarring—but this contrast is very common in Galicia, maximizing the brightness that accompanies any sunny spells in this notoriously rainy region.
A walkway from the parador leads to the Office for Pilgrims (Rúa das Carretas 33, daily April-Oct 8:00-21:00, Nov-March 10:00-19:00, entrance around the corner on Rúa Domingo García Sabell). This is where pilgrims pick up their compostela, the certificate that documents their successful camino. While tourists aren’t welcome, you can peek into the gardens while chatting at the door with happy pilgrims.
Another 90 degrees to the left is the Neoclassical City Hall (Concello). Notice the equestrian statue up top. That’s St. James, riding in from heaven to help the Spaniards defeat the Moors. All over town, Santiago’s namesake and symbol—a Christian evangelist on a horse, killing Muslims with his sword—is out doing his bloody thing. See any police on the square? There’s a reason for their presence. In its medieval day, Santiago’s cathedral was one of the top three pilgrimage sites in the Christian world (after Jerusalem and Rome). It remains important today, and with St. James taking such joy in butchering Muslims, it is considered a high-profile target for Islamic fundamentalists.
Completing the square (90 more degrees to the left) is the University building (its rectory faces the square; the tower behind with the flags marks the original building, which is now the library). Santiago has Spain’s third-oldest university, with more than 30,000 students (medicine and law are especially popular).
You’ll likely see Spanish school groups on the square, field-tripping from all over the country. Teachers love to use this spot for an architecture lesson, since it features four architectural styles (starting with the cathedral and spinning left): 18th-century Baroque; 16th-century Plateresque; 18th-century Neoclassical; and medieval Romanesque (the door of the rectory).
• Bear in mind that the cathedral will be under restoration until 2021, but take a look at the...
Twelve hundred years ago, a monk followed a field of stars (probably the Milky Way) to the little Galician village of San Fiz de Solovio and discovered what appeared to be the long-lost tomb of St. James. On July 25, 813, the local bishop declared that St. James’ remains had been found. They set to building a church here and named the place Santiago (St. James) de Compostela (campo de estrellas, or “field of stars,” for the celestial bodies that guided the monk).
Originally a simple chapel, the cathedral you see today has gradually been added on to over the last 12 centuries. By the 11th century, the church was overwhelmed by the crowds. Construction of a larger cathedral began in 1075, and the work took 150 years. (The granite workers who built it set up shop on this very square—still called Praza do Obradoiro, literally, “Workers’ Square.”) Much of the design is attributed to a palace artist named Maestro Mateo, whom you’ll meet a little later.
The exterior of the cathedral you see today is not the one that medieval pilgrims saw (though the interior is much the same). In the mid-18th century, Santiago’s bishop—all fired up from a trip to Baroque-slathered Rome and wanting to improve the original, now-deteriorating facade—decided to spruce up the building with a new Baroque exterior. He also replaced the simple stonework in the interior with gaudy gold.
Study the facade. Atop the middle steeple is St. James (dressed like the pilgrim he was). Beneath him is his tomb, marked by a star—one of the many symbols you’ll see all over the place (to decipher the symbols, see sidebar on here). On either side of the tomb are Theodorus and Athanasius, James’ disciples who brought his body to Santiago. On the side pillars are, to the left, James’ father, Zebedee; and to the right, his mother, Salomé.
Don’t you wish you had a miniature replica of this beautiful facade to carry around with you? Actually, you probably do. Check your pocket for a copper-colored euro coin worth €0.01, €0.02, or €0.05. There it is! Of all the churches in Spain, they chose this one as their representative in euro-land. Sevilla and Toledo may have bigger cathedrals, but Santiago has the symbolism to propel its church into EU currency.
The cathedral also houses a museum with three parts; as you face this facade, the door to the main museum is to the right, the entry to the crypt is dead ahead (under the staircase), and the door on the left leads to an empty palace and the cathedral rooftop (see Gelmírez Palace listing, later).
• To enter the cathedral, head around the right side, then take a left at Praza das Praterías and climb the steps. Once inside, enjoy the space but make your way to the rear of the nave and find the display about the...
This portico is hidden under scaffolding while being restored to all its glory (an exhibit at Gelmírez Palace about the restoration is included in Cathedral Museum ticket, described later).
If you’re lucky and the scaffolding has been removed, imagine taking a step back in time. Remember, it used to be the main facade of the cathedral, sculpted in about 1180 by Maestro Mateo. Pretend you’re a medieval pilgrim, and you’ve just walked 500 miles from the Frankish lands to reach this cathedral. You’re here to request the help of St. James in recovering from an illness or to give thanks for a success. Maybe you’ve come to honor the wish of a dying relative or to be forgiven for your sins. Whatever the reason, you came here on foot.
You can’t read, but you can tell from the carved images that this magnificent door represents the Glory of God. Old Testament prophets on the left announce Christ’s coming. New Testament apostles on the right spread his message. Jesus reigns directly above, approachable to the humble Christian pilgrim via St. James with his staff.
Theologically, pilgrims are coming not for St. James, but to get to Christ via St. James. Look for Jesus, front and center, surrounded by Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John. Beside them are angels carrying tools for the Crucifixion—the cross, the crown of thorns, the spear, and a jug of vinegar. Arching above them are 24 musicians playing celestial music—each one with a different medieval instrument. Below St. James is a column with the Tree of Jesse—showing the genealogy of Jesus, with Mary near the top and, above her, the Holy Trinity: Father, Son, and a dove representing the Holy Spirit.
As a pilgrim, you would walk to the column in the middle of the entryway. Trembling with excitement at the culmination of your long journey, you’d place your hand into the well-worn finger holes on the column (see five grooves at about chest level) and bow your head, giving thanks to St. James for having granted you safe passage. Then you’d go around to the other side of the post and, at knee level, see Maestro Mateo, who carved this fine facade. What a smart guy! People used to kneel and tap their heads against his three times to help improve their intelligence (a ritual among university scholars here)—until a metal barrier was erected. (Grades have dropped recently.) Such a high-profile self-portrait of an artist in the 12th century was unprecedented. In Santiago he was something like the Leonardo da Vinci of his day.
• Now turn around to appreciate the...
Look up to take in the barrel vault and the heavy, dark Romanesque design of the church. (The original freestanding church had about 80 glorious alabaster windows. They were mostly bricked up when a complex of buildings was built around the church.) Up near the top, notice the gallery. This is where sweaty, smelly pilgrims slept. Check out the most modern addition to the side naves: TV monitors. Now when crowds fill the cathedral for Mass, everyone has a good view of the service.
• Continue up the nave until you reach the high altar, where you’ll see a thick rope hanging from a pulley system high in the dome, which is attached to the...
This huge silver-plated incense burner (120 pounds and about the size of a small child) is suspended from the ceiling, but only used about 12 times a year (ask at TI if a special Mass with the botafumeiro is scheduled during your visit, or check www.catedraldesantiago.es). It also fills the cathedral with incense when a pilgrim pays about €300 to see it in action. During Holy Years, it swings nearly daily at the end of each pilgrims’ Mass at 12:00. Supposedly the custom of swinging this giant incense dispenser began in order to counteract the stench of the pilgrims. After communion, eight men (called tiraboleiros) pull on the rope, and this huge contraption swings in a wide arc up and down the transept, spewing sweet-smelling smoke. If you’re here to see it, the most impressive view is from either side of the main altar. From this position, the botafumeiro seems to whiz directly over your head. A replica is kept on display in the cathedral library (see “Cathedral Museum,” later).
• Stand in the center of the nave, in front of the...
The big gold altar has all three representations of St. James in one place (see sidebar on here): Up top, on a white horse, is James the Matamoros—Moor-Slayer; below that (just under the canopy) is pilgrim James; and below that is the original stone Apostle James by Maestro Mateo—still pointing down to his tomb after all these centuries.
The dome over the altar was added in the 16th century to bring some light into this dark Romanesque church.
On the columns up and down the nave and transept, notice the symbols carved into the granite. These are the markings of the masons who made the columns—to keep track of how many they’d be paid for.
• Following the pilgrims’ route, go down the ambulatory on the left side of the altar—passing where the botafumeiro rope is moored to the pillar—and walk down the little stairway on your right (see the green light of the Entrada sign) to the level of the earlier, 10th-century church and the...
There he is, in the little silver chest, marked by a star—Santiago. Pilgrims kneel in front of the tomb and make their request or say their thanks.
• Continue through the little passage, up the stairs, turn left, and wander around the ambulatory, noticing the sumptuous chapels (built by noblemen who wanted to be buried close to St. James). At the very back of the church (behind the altar) is the greenish...
This special door is open only during Holy Years, when pilgrims use it to access the tomb and statue of the apostle. The door, sculpted by a local artist for the 2004 Holy Year, shows six scenes from the life of St. James: the conversion moment when Jesus invited those Galilean fishermen to become “fishers of men”; Jesus with the 12 apostles (James is identified by his scallop shell); James doing his “fishing” in Spain; his return to Jerusalem in A.D. 44 to be beheaded; the ship taking his body back to Spain; and the discovery of James’ body in 813. At the bottom, the little snail is the symbol of the pilgrim...slow and steady, with everything on its back.
There’s one more pilgrim ritual to complete. Opposite the Holy Door, find a little door—perhaps with a line of pilgrims (closed 13:30-16:00 and after 20:00). Climb the stairs under the huge babies, and find Maestro Mateo’s stone statue of St. James—gilded and caked with precious gems. Embrace him from behind and enjoy a saint’s-eye view of the cathedral...under the vigilant eye of a cathedral watchman, there to ensure you’re not overcome by the unholy temptation to pry loose a jewel.
• Congratulations, pilgrim! You have completed the Camino de Santiago. Now go in peace.
The cathedral’s museum shows off some interesting pieces from the fine treasury collection and artifacts from the cathedral’s history. Your admission ticket includes a look inside Gelmírez Palace and its exhibit about current restoration efforts.
Cost and Hours: €6, daily 9:00-20:00, Nov-March from 10:00, last entry one hour before closing, essential audioguide-€3.50 (leave photo ID or a €10 deposit), toll tel. 902-557-812, ticket office in crypt under main stairs into cathedral, www.catedraldesantiago.es.
Visiting the Museum: The museum is laid out chronologically from bottom to top. There’s virtually no English inside, so the audioguide is worth paying for.
Crypt: Wander into the small crypt to the right of the ticket counter and see some serious medieval engineering. Because the church was built on a too-small hill, the crypt was made to support the part of the nave that hung over the hillside. The Romanesque vaulting and carved decoration is more Maestro Mateo mastery.
Ground Floor: Here you’ll find the remaining pieces of Maestro Mateo’s original stone choir (stone seats for priests; these seats filled the center of the nave in the 12th century), pieced together as part of a new replica. Nearby, look for a miniature model of the choir. Notice the expressive faces Mateo carved into the granite. Working in the Romanesque style, he was well ahead of his time artistically. Consider the cultural value of a place in Europe where people from all corners came together, shared, and then dispersed.
In some ways, the concept of Europe as a civilization was being born when Santiago was in its 12th-century heyday. You’ll also see fragments of Roman settlements, dating from before the tomb of St. James was discovered here, as well as some fabulous spiral columns of solid marble from Mateo’s workshop.
First Floor: The four statues of a pregnant Mary illustrate a theme that’s unusual in most of Europe, but common in Galicia and neighboring Portugal in the 15th century.
The final room on this floor is dedicated to various portrayals of St. James (see sidebar), with some incarnations of him as Matamoros (the Moor-Slayer). Notice the wooden door showing the rescue of James’ body by his disciples and its transfer to Galicia.
Second Floor: Enter the cloister, where a series of tombs holding the remains of cathedral priests line the floor. Pass by the ornate chapel and enter the courtyard to see a fountain (which once stood in front of the cathedral and was used by pilgrims to cleanse themselves) and the original church bells (replaced with new models in 1989). As you walk left (clockwise) around the cloister, the second door leads to the Royal Chapel, with a beautiful-smelling cedar altar that houses dozens and dozens of relics. The centerpiece (eye level) holds the remains (likely the skull) of St. James the Lesser (the other Apostle James). Look up to find St. James riding heroically out of the woodwork to rally all of Europe to reconquer the Iberian Peninsula. This altarpiece was restored after a fire around 1900.
You’ll see three different depictions of St. James in the cathedral and throughout the city:
Apostle James: James dressed in typical apostle robes, often indiscernible from the other apostles (sometimes with a pilgrim’s stick or shell).
Pilgrim James: James wearing some or all of the traditional garb of the Camino de Santiago pilgrim: brown cloak, floppy hat, walking stick, shell, gourd, and sandals. Among pilgrims, he’s the one carrying a book.
Crusader James, the Moor-Slayer (Matamoros): Centuries after his death, the Spaniards called on St. James for aid in various battles against the Moors. According to legend, St. James appeared from the heavens on a white horse and massacred the Muslim foes. Locals don’t particularly care for this depiction, especially these days, when they worry it might provoke attacks by fringe Islamic fundamentalist elements, which is probably why the cathedral chapel dedicated to this version of James conveniently has floral displays that cover the slain Moors.
• Cross the hall to the...
Treasury: An altar dedicated to the King Ferdinand III takes center stage. The fancy solid-gold monstrance is used for carrying the communion host around the cathedral on Corpus Christi (the wafer sits in the little round window in the middle). Other bits of religious finery await your inspection. Don’t miss the intimate 18th-century Madonna and Child carving in the glass case. The nursing Virgen de la Leche looks out at us as she feeds her son.
• Stroll around the cloister for tower views, then return through the door you entered to the...
Library/Archive: This is where they store old books, a funky rack for reading those huge tomes (“turn pages” by spinning the rack) and the botafumeiro (gigantic incense burner). There’s always a replica here offering a close-up look.
• Leave the library and go up one more floor to enjoy views from a fine balcony overlooking Praza do Obradoiro.
Third Floor: Take a look inside the dark room to the right of the stairs. Here you’ll find the painstakingly restored gallardete (long, triangular standard) flown from the Spanish captain’s ship during the 1571 Battle of Lepanto. Don Quixote author Miguel de Cervantes was wounded in this battle—and likely saw this very flag—as Spain fought to victory over the Turks, gaining control of the Mediterranean.
Next, step out on the balcony to appreciate the grandness of the Praza do Obradoiro and watch pilgrims arrive. You’ll then walk through several rooms of restored tapestries. The first room is from designs by Rubens. The two middle rooms show idealistic 18th-century peasant life—wives helping their men to be less moronic (but there’s still a man peeing in the corner). The last room has a series of 12 tapestries, designed by Goya, with exacting details of life around 1790.
Nearby: Also included in your museum ticket is Gelmírez Palace (Pazo de Xelmírez), the medieval home and traditional residence of the archbishop. Show your ticket to access the palace through the doorway to the left of the crypt. This space houses an exhibit detailing the first stage of the cathedral’s restoration. While the Baroque structure remains sound and stable—the towers incline only ever-so-slightly even after 250 years—damage from rain and biological elements worried the administrators. And architects discovered a greater problem: a botched 1950s “restoration” where cement had been added to what should have been self-supporting domes. Work will be complete by the next Holy Year (2021).
There is a square on each side of the cathedral. You’ve already visited Praza do Obradoiro, in the front. Here are the other three, working clockwise (to reach the first one, go up the passage—which street musicians appreciate for its acoustics—to the left as you’re facing the main cathedral facade).
This was the way most medieval pilgrims using the French Road actually approached the cathedral. Across the square is St. Martin’s Monastery (Mosteiro de San Martiño Pinario), one of two monasteries that sprang up around the church to care for pilgrims. It grew quickly and became the second largest monastery in Spain after El Escorial, and the Baroque altar continues to make jaws drop. Today the monastery houses an enormous museum of ecclesiastical artifacts and special exhibits (€2.50, daily 11:00-13:00 & 16:00-19:30 except closed Sun afternoon, shorter hours off-season, entrance around corner on Praza do San Martiño Pinario).
Walk to the corner of the Praza da Immaculada with the arcade, and go to the post with the sign for Rúa da Acibechería (next to the garbage can, under the streetlight). If you look to the roof of the cathedral, between the big dome and the tall tower, you can make out a small white cross. This is where the clothes of medieval pilgrims were burned when they finally arrived at Santiago. This ritual was created for hygienic reasons in an age of frightful diseases...and filthy pilgrims.
• Continue along the arcade and around the corner, and you’ll enter...
The door of the cathedral facing this square is the Holy Door, only opened during Holy Years. There’s St. James, flanked by the disciples who brought his body back to Galicia. Below them are more biblical characters, perhaps the 12 apostles and 12 prophets. Tip: Old Testament prophets hold scrolls. New Testament apostles hold books.
Across the square from the cathedral stands the imposing St. Pelayo Monastery (Mosteiro San Paio). The windows of its cells (now used by Benedictine sisters—notice the bars and privacy screens) face the cathedral. The church at the north end of this monastery is worth a peek. It has a frilly Baroque altar and a statue with a typical Galician theme: a pregnant Mary (to the left as you face main altar). The nuns sing at the evening vespers following the 19:30 Mass (Mon-Fri; 30 minutes earlier Sat-Sun). Just off this sanctuary is the entrance to the monastery’s Sacred Art Museum (Museo de Arte Sacra), with a small but interesting collection (modest entry fee, closed Mon). The nuns of St. Pelayo make Galicia’s famous tarta de Santiago—almond cake with a cross of Santiago in powdered sugar dusted on top. To buy one, exit the church to the right, head up the stairs, and walk all the way around the monastery to find the green doors on Travessa de San Paio de Antealtares. Once inside, go to the small window on the left (closed during siesta and all day Sun; they only sell entire cakes—a big one for €11.50 and a very big one for €19.50; ring bell and remember that patience is a virtue).
• Circle right to return where you entered the cathedral at...
This “Silversmiths’ Square” is where Santiago’s silver workers used to have their shops (and some still do). Overlooking the square is a tall tower. Imagine the fortified, typically Romanesque cathedral complex before the decorative Baroque frills were added; it looked more like a hulking fortress for fending off invading enemies, from Normans to Moors to English pirates.
The fountain features a woman sitting on St. James’ tomb, holding aloft a star—a typical city symbol. The mansion facing the cathedral is actually a collection of buildings with a thin-yet-effective Galician Baroque facade built to give the square architectural harmony. Its centerpiece even copies the fountain’s star. Facing the fountain is the Pilgrimage and Santiago Museum (described later).
This wonderful market, housed in Old World stone buildings, offers a good opportunity to do some serious people-watching (Mon-Sat 8:00-14:00, closed Sun). It’s busiest and best on Saturday, when villagers from the countryside come to sell things. (Monday’s the least interesting day, since the fishermen don’t go out on Sunday.)
The market was built in the 1920s (to consolidate Santiago’s many small markets) in a style perfectly compatible with the medieval wonder that surrounds it. Today it offers an opportunity to get up close and personal with some still-twitching seafood. Keep an eye out for the specialties you’ll want to try later—octopus, shrimp, crabs, lobsters, and expensive-as-gold percebes (barnacles; see sidebar). You’ll also see large loaves of country bread, chicken the color it should be, and the local chorizo (spicy sausage).
Grelos are a local type of turnip greens with a thick stalk and long, narrow leaves—used in the caldo galego soup. The little green pimientos de Padrón (in season June-Oct) look like jalapeños, but lack the kick...sometimes. Now and then you’ll find an impromptu stand outside cooking up fresh octopus.
In the cheese cases you’ll see what look like huge yellow Hershey’s Kisses...or breasts—in fact, this creamy cheese is called tetilla (“small breast” in Galego). According to legend, artists at the cathedral sculpted a very curvaceous woman and the townspeople loved it. The bishop made them redo the statue with fewer sexy lines, so the locals got even by making their cheese look like breasts. Through the centuries since, Santiago has been full of tasty reminders of a woman’s physical beauty. A smoked version of the cheese, called San Simón da Costa, can be found as well.
Local gooseneck barnacles, called percebes, are a delicacy. Percebes grow only on rocks that see a lot of dangerous waves. It takes specialists to harvest them: a team of two gatherers, one with a rope tied to his waist, the other spotting him from above. Because of the danger, percebes are really expensive. You’ll see them stacked in the windows of seafood bars, where you’ll pay about €7 for 100 grams ($35/lb). Check the price carefully when you order, as there are varieties that can cost many times that much. Two beers and a small 100-gram plate to split with your travel partner make for a wonderful snack. Just twist, rip, and bite: It’s a bit like munching the necks off butter clams. I ask for toasted bread on the side.
For the freshest percebes at half the price—and twice the experience—buy them at the market, then let Mariscomanía boil them for you right there in their market café. They’ll boil up any seafood (or meat) you buy in the market (it takes just a few minutes), charging €4 per person for table service (Tue-Sat 9:00-18:00, closed Sun-Mon, aisle 5 in the market, tel. 981-560-982).
A perfect place to enjoy your goodies is A Viñoteca do Mercado, in the center of the market by the fountain. They specialize in regional wines, a perfect match to market products. Claim a stand-up table, open your picnic, have a glass of Ribeiro, and watch the world go by (Mon-Sat 9:30-15:00, closed Mon off-season and Sun year-round, tel. 663-883-635).
This museum examines various aspects of the pilgrimage phenomenon. You’ll see a map of pilgrimage sites around the world and then learn more about the pilgrimage that brings people to Santiago. There are models of earlier versions of the cathedral, explanations of the differing depictions of St. James throughout history (apostle, pilgrim, and Crusader), and coverage of the various routes to Santiago and stories of some prominent pilgrims. This well-presented place lends historical context to all of those backpackers you see in the streets. Although exhibits themselves are not described in English, the thorough info sheets available throughout the museum are well worth reading.
Cost and Hours: €2.40, Tue-Fri 9:30-20:30, Sat 11:00-19:30, Sun 10:15-14:45, closed Mon, Praza das Praterías 2, tel. 981-566-110, http://museoperegrinacions.xunta.gal.
This museum gives insights into rural Galician life. As you tour this collection, remember that if you side-trip a few miles into the countryside, you’ll find traditional lifestyles thriving even today. Beautifully displayed around an 18th-century cloister, the museum springs from a unique triple staircase, which provided privacy to various hierarchies of the Dominican monks who lived here, depending on which stairway you climbed. The collection shows off boat-building and fishing techniques, farming implements and simple horse-drawn carts, tools of trade and handicrafts (including carpentry, pottery, looms, and baskets), traditional costumes, unique regional architecture, and a collection of musical instruments, with an emphasis on the bagpipes (gaitas). If the farm tools seem old-fashioned, there’s a reason: Old inheritance laws mean that plots have gotten increasingly small, so modern farming machinery is impractical—keeping traditional equipment alive. Don’t miss access to the church (cloister corner directly ahead of entrance), and the Pantheon of Illustrious Galicians where important writers, artists, and politicians are buried. Occasional pamphlets describe each section, but otherwise there is no English.
Cost and Hours: €3, free on Sun, open Tue-Sat 10:30-14:00 & 16:00-19:30, Sun 11:00-14:00, closed Mon, at northeast edge of historical center in monastery of San Domingos de Bonaval, just beyond Porta do Camiño, tel. 981-583-620, www.museodopobo.gal.
Nearby: Behind the museum is a plush and peaceful park—once crowded with tombstones. Next door, in a striking modern building, is the Galician Contemporary Art Museum (Centro Galego de Arte Contemporánea), with continually rotating exhibits—mostly by local artists (free, Tue-Sun 11:00-20:00, closed Mon).
You’ll likely hear bagpipes (gaitas) being played in the streets of Santiago. Nobody knows for certain how this unlikely instrument caught on in Galicia, but supposedly the tradition has been passed down since the Celts lived here. (Bagpipes seem to be unique to Celts like the Scottish and Irish, but nearly all European ethnic groups have had bagpipes in their past. If anything, the Celts just endured their sound more willingly.) Some singers use bagpipes, too, including Milladoiro (a group popular with middle-aged Galicians) and Carlos Nuñez (trendy with younger people). Caped university students, called tunas, can be seen singing traditional songs (without bagpipes) around town every night during the summer.
To cater to all those pilgrims, Santiago has a glut of cheap, basic accommodations, but the current popularity of the Camino means there are also very good hotel options. High season is roughly Easter through September; most places charge more during this time. The trickiest dates to book are Easter Sunday weekend and the days around the Feast of St. James (July 25), so if you plan to be in town around these times, reserve your rooms well ahead. The hostales speak enough English to make a reservation by phone (though sometimes not much more).
$$$$ Parador Santiago de Compostela is also known as Hostal dos Reis Católicos (Hospital of the Catholic Monarchs); it occupies the former hospital founded by the Catholic Monarchs at the beginning of the 16th century to care for pilgrims arriving from the Camino. It was converted into an upscale parador in 1952 and inaugurated by Franco (when royal family members are in town, they stay in his former suite overlooking the square). This grand building has 137 rooms surrounding a series of four courtyards packed with Santiago history. It has the best address in Santiago...and prices to match (check website or call for deals, pay parking, Praza do Obradoiro 1, tel. 981-582-200, www.paradores-spain.com, santiago@parador.es).
Still remembering its roots, the parador follows Ferdinand and Isabel’s edict to watch over pilgrims by offering three free meals to the first 10 who arrive each day (usually around 8:00). Pilgrims were originally allowed to eat in the main dining room, and were given special cloaks to quash their odor. When that failed, they were moved to their own eating quarters and now dine in a room next to the staff quarters.
$$ Altaïr Hotel, owned by the Liñares family (see Costa Vella listing, later), is located in a renovated three-story residence. Its 11 spacious rooms and mod decor can best be described as “rustic minimalist.” Exposed stone walls and open beams mixed with a sleek design provide a unique yet surprisingly affordable experience (breakfast included for Rick Steves readers, affordable laundry service for guests, Rúa dos Loureiros 12, tel. 981-554-712, www.altairhotel.net, info@altairhotel.net).
$$ Hotel Virxe da Cerca is on the edge of the historical center, across the busy street from the market. Its standard rooms are in a modern building, but some of its “superior” and all of its “special” historic rooms—with classy old stone and hardwoods—are in a restored 18th-century Jesuit residence. While the modern rooms feel particularly impersonal, all 42 rooms surround a lush garden oasis (beautiful glassed-in breakfast room overlooks garden, elevator, Rúa da Virxe da Cerca 27, tel. 981-569-350, www.pousadasdecompostela.com, vdacerca@pousadasdecompostela.com).
$ Hotel Residencia Costa Vella is my favorite spot in Santiago, with 14 comfortable rooms combining classic charm and modern comforts. The glassed-in breakfast room and lounge terrace overlook a peaceful garden, with lovely views of a nearby church and monastery and into the countryside beyond. They deserve a feature in Better Stones and Tiles magazine (affordable laundry service for guests, pay parking, Rúa Porta da Pena 17, tel. 981-569-530, www.costavella.com, hotelcostavella@costavella.com, friendly José, Roberto, and wonderful staff).
The $ Hotel Airas Nunes, Hotel San Clemente, and Hotel Pombal are all affiliated with Hotel Virxe da Cerca. They’re uniformly good, stress-free, and professional-feeling, all located in restored old buildings with classy touches. All three hotels share the same contact info (tel. 981-569-350, www.pousadasdecompostela.com, info@pousadasdecompostela.com). Hotel Airas Nunes is deep in the old center a few blocks in front of the cathedral (10 rooms, Rúa do Vilar 17). Hotel San Clemente is just outside the historical center (Rúa de San Clemente 28). Hotel Pombal is a slight step up from the other two in terms of quality and price. Situated in Alameda Park, many of its rooms offer great views of the cathedral (Rúa do Pombal 12).
$ Hostal Suso, run by the four Quintela brothers, is a great value, offering 14 affordable, modern rooms around an airy atrium and a little bar where breakfast is served. It’s located in the heart of Santiago (Rúa do Vilar 65, tel. 981-586-611, www.hostalsuso.com, hostalsuso@hostalsuso.com).
$ Hostal Residencia Giadás, tucked away just beyond the market, faces a tidy little square as if it owns it. The eight rooms, some with slanted floors, are simple but charming (elevator, next to Porta do Camiño at Praza do Matadoiro 2, reception in downstairs café, tel. 981-587-071, www.hostalgiadas.com, info@hostalgiadas.com, Giadás family).
$ Pensión Girasol rents 12 decent rooms above a cheery cafeteria for a good price in a great neighborhood (Rúa Porta da Pena 4, tel. 981-566-287, www.hgirasol.com, girasol@hgirasol.com).
¢ Hospedaje Ramos rents 10 big, tasteful, clean rooms right in the center. It has lots of stairs, which is a blessing since they take you farther away from the night noise (cash only, Rúa da Raiña 18, tel. 981-581-859, Louisa speaks a few words of English).
Strolling through the streets of Santiago is like visiting a well-stocked aquarium: Windows proudly display every form of edible sea life, including giant toothy fish, scallops and clams of every shape and size, monstrous shrimp, gooseneck barnacles (percebes; see sidebar, earlier), and—most importantly—octopus. The fertile fjords of the Galician coast are just 20 miles away, and the region’s many fishing villages keep the capital city swimming in seafood. As the seafood is so fresh, the focus here is on purity rather than sauces. The seafood is served simply—generally just steamed or grilled, and seasoned only with a little olive oil, onions, peppers, and paprika.
Tasting octopus (pulpo) is obligatory in Galicia. It’s most often prepared a la gallega (also called pulpo a feira): After the octopus is beaten to tenderize it, then boiled in a copper pot, its tentacles are snipped into bite-size pieces with scissors. It’s topped with virgin olive oil, coarse sea salt, and a mixture of sweet and spicy paprika, then served on a round wooden plate. Eat it with toothpicks, never a fork. It’s usually accompanied by large hunks of country bread to sop up the olive oil, and washed down by local red mencia or white Ribeiro wine, often served in little saucer-like ceramic cups (cunca).
Not a fan of seafood? You can slurp the caldo galego, a traditional broth that originally came from the leftover stock used to prepare an elaborate Sunday feast (cabbage or grelos, potatoes, and so on—not too exciting, but providing comfort on a rainy day). Starting in July, look for pimientos de Padrón—miniature green peppers sautéed in olive oil with a heavy dose of rock salt.
Restaurants generally serve lunch from 13:00 to 16:00 and dinner from 20:00 until very late (Spaniards don’t start dinner until about 21:00). It’s frustrating to try to eat before the locals do. If you find a restaurant serving before 13:00 or 21:00, you’ll be all alone with a few sorry-looking tourists. Early-bird eaters should know that ordering a drink at any bar will generally get you a free tapa—Santiago is one of the few places in Spain that still honors this tradition.
For a quick meal on the go, grab a traditional meat pie, or empanada, which comes de carne (with pork), de bonito or de atún (tuna), de bacalao (salted cod), de zamburiñas (tiny scallops), de berberechos (cockles)—and these days, even de pulpo (octopus).
And for dessert: Locals enjoy queixo con mel (cheese with honey) at the end of a meal. In the tourist zones, bakeries push samples of tarta de Santiago, the local almond cake. (Historically, the cake was baked by sisters in Santiago’s convents.) The Galician version of firewater, orujo, is a popular after-dinner drink, thought to aid digestion. A somewhat lighter and tastier option is licor de hierbas, a distilled, Mountain Dew-colored blend of orujo flavored with local herbs.
$$$$ Casa Marcelo, Santiago’s elite gourmet option, earned a Michelin star for its international cuisine. If you want to dine elegantly, this dressy 11-table restaurant is the place. For €60 (plus wine), you get a fixed-price meal featuring the chef’s seasonal specials. Recent innovations include a soufflé-like version of the tarta de Santiago. The kitchen is in plain view, so you’ll get caught up in the excitement of cooking (open for lunch and dinner Tue-Sat, lunch only Sun, closed Mon, reservations required—usually days in advance, down the steep lane below the cathedral, Rúa das Hortas 1, tel. 981-558-580, www.casamarcelo.net).
Since hungry pilgrims first filled the city in the Middle Ages, Rúa do Franco (named not for the dictator but for the first French pilgrims) has been lined with eateries and bars. Today this street, which leads away from the cathedral, remains lively with foreign visitors—both tourists and pilgrims. There are dozens of seafood places, a few time-warp dives, and several lively bars with little €1.50 montaditos (sandwiches) for the grabbing. I’d stroll it once to see what appeals, and then go back to eat.
$$ O Gato Negro, a no-frills seafood tapas bar stuck in the past and filled with loyal locals, is worth seeking out. It’s one of the last places to serve Ribeiro wine in a ceramic cup (Tue-Sat 12:30-15:00 & 19:00-late, closed Mon and Sun evening, near Rúa do Franco on side street Rúa da Raiña—look for black cat sign outside, tel. 981-583-105).
$$$ A Curtidoría Restaurante (“The Tannery”) is a modern, spacious, and romantic place in the old town, rare for its open feeling. While the food is nothing exceptional, the setting is enjoyable and it’s a solid value for a midday meal (good paella and fish plates, Rúa da Conga 2, tel. 981-554-342).
The fancy old Parador Santiago de Compostela, sharing the square with the cathedral, has two fine restaurants downstairs. The main restaurant, $$$ Dos Reis, fills a former stable with a dramatic stone vault. It offers international dishes—often with live piano and nearly dead guests. A typical parador restaurant, it comes with stiff tuxedoed service, white tablecloths, and not a hint of fun (daily, tel. 981-582-200). Surprisingly, a few steps away is a wonderful alternative: $$ Enxebre has a livelier, easygoing tavern vibe, good traditional Galician food, and reasonable prices (daily, tel. 981-050-527).
$ Restaurante Casa Manolo serves only one thing: a €9.50 fixed-price meal consisting of two generous courses, water, bread, and a packaged dessert. It’s popular with students on a tight budget who want a classy meal out. This smart little family-run eatery combines sleek contemporary design, decent Galician and Spanish food, and excellent prices. The service is rushed (a good thing if you’re in a hurry), but the value is unbeatable (arrive when they open or plan on waiting; Mon-Sat lunch 13:00-16:00, dinner 20:00-23:30, Sun lunch only, at the bottom of Praza de Cervantes, tel. 981-582-950).
$$$ O Dezaseis (“The Sixteen”) is every local’s favorite (and mine, too). As soon as you walk down into its sprawling, high-energy vaulted dining room, you know this is the best place in town. In-the-know diners enjoy friendly service under stone walls, heavy beams, and modern art. You can choose from meat and fish plates, but simply ordering one ración per person and splitting their hearty mixed salad for some veggies makes a fine and inexpensive meal. They do octopus just right here and have nice wines at good prices (Mon-Sat 14:00-16:00 & 20:30-24:00, closed Sun, reservations smart, Rúa de San Pedro 16, tel. 981-564-880, www.dezaseis.com).
$$ Cotolay Bar Restaurante and two adjacent bar-restaurants are a hit with locals for drinks with free tapas. They are good budget bets for a meal of raciones without the tourists (€5-15 raciones, Mon-Sat 11:00-late, closed Sun, Rúa de San Clemente 8, tel. 981-573-014).
$$ La Bodeguilla de San Roque offers a wonderful selection of raciones and wines in a relaxed family atmosphere. Try their revuelto de grelos (scrambled eggs with greens, shrimp, and garlic) or nicely spicy octopus. If the upstairs restaurant is full, have a drink at the bar to pass the time (Rúa da San Roque 13, tel. 981-564-379).
$ Café Costa Vella, in the breakfast room and garden of the highly recommended Hotel Residencia Costa Vella, is a little Eden tucked just beyond the tourist zone. The café welcomes nonguests for coffee and a relaxing break in a poetic time-warp garden with leafy views (great toasted sandwiches, plus a wide array of drinks, daily 8:00-23:00, Rúa Porta da Pena 17, tel. 981-569-530).
$ Café Casino, a former private club, is a tired taste of turn-of-the-20th-century elegance with occasional live piano music. Local tour guides recommend this café to their timid British groups, who wouldn’t touch an octopus with a 10-foot pole. While they have sandwiches and salads, I would just consider this an elegant coffee or tea stop (Rúa do Vilar 35, tel. 981-577-503).
From Santiago de Compostela by Train to: Madrid (5/day, 6 hours, longer with connections in Palencia, León, or Pontevedra), Salamanca (2/day, 7 hours, transfer in Segovia), León (2/day, 4.5 hours), Bilbao (1/day, no direct service, 10 hours), San Sebastián (2/day, 11 hours), Lugo (3-4/day, 2.5 hours, requires transfer in Ourense or A Coruña—bus is better), Porto, Portugal (2/day via Vigo, 5 hours). Train info: Toll tel. 902-320-320, www.renfe.com.
By Bus to: Lugo (5/day, 2.5 hours), Madrid (4/day to Estación Sur, 9 hours, includes night bus that leaves at 21:30, most also serve Madrid’s Barajas Airport Terminal 4; 3/day to Moncloa, 9 hours), Salamanca (1/day, 7.5 hours), Astorga (4/day, 5 hours), León (1/day, 6 hours), Burgos (1/day, 9 hours), Bilbao (3/day continue to San Sebastián, includes 1 night bus, 12 hours to Bilbao, 1.5 hours more to San Sebastián), Porto, Portugal (1/day, 4 hours, stops at Porto’s airport before arriving in city center). All long-distance destinations are served by the Alsa bus company (toll tel. 902-422-242, www.alsa.es).