Tourists risk leaving Madrid without ever seeing the modern “Manhattan” side of town. But it’s easy to find. From the museum neighborhood, bus #27 makes the trip straight north along Paseo del Prado and then Paseo de la Castellana, through the no-nonsense skyscraper part of this city of more than three million. The line ends at the leaning towers of Puerta de Europa (Gate of Europe). This trip is simple and cheap. If starting from the Prado, catch the bus from the museum side to head north; from the Reina Sofía, the stop is a couple of blocks away at the Royal Botanical Garden, at the end of the garden fence (€1.50, buses run every 10 minutes). You just joyride for 30-45 minutes to the last stop, get out at the end of the line when everyone else does, ogle the skyscrapers, and catch the Metro for a 20-minute ride back to the city’s center. At twilight, when fountains and facades are floodlit, the ride is particularly enjoyable. Possible stops of interest along the way are Plaza de Colon (for the National Archaeological Museum) and Bernabéu (for the massive soccer stadium).
Historic District: Bus #27 rumbles from the end of the Paseo del Prado at the Royal Botanical Garden (opposite McDonald’s) and the Velázquez entrance to the Prado. Immediately after the Prado you pass a number of grand landmarks: a square with a fountain of Neptune (left); an obelisk and war memorial to those who have died for Spain (right, with the stock market behind it); the Naval Museum (right); and Plaza de Cibeles—with the fancy City Hall and cultural center. From Plaza de Cibeles, you can see the 18th-century Gate of Alcalá (the old east entry to Madrid), the Bank of Spain, and the start of the Gran Vía (left). Then you can relax for a moment while driving along Paseo de Recoletos.
Modern District: Just past the National Library (right) is a roundabout and square (Plaza de Colon) with a statue of Columbus in the middle and a giant Spanish flag. This marks the end of the historic town and the beginning of the modern city. (Hop out here for the National Archaeological Museum.)
At this point the boulevard changes its name (and the sights I mention are much more spread out). This street used to be named for Franco; now it’s named for the people he no longer rules—la Castellana (Castilians). Next, you pass high-end apartments and embassies. Immediately after an underpass with several modern sculptures comes the American Embassy (right, hard to see behind its fortified wall) and some circa-1940s buildings that once housed Franco’s ministries (left, typical fascist architecture, with large colonnades). Continuing up the boulevard, look left and ahead to see the Picasso Tower, resembling one of New York’s former World Trade Center towers with its vertical black-and-white stripes (it was designed by the same architect). Passing under a second underpass you enter 1980s business sprawl on the left. Just after the Picasso Tower (left) is the huge Bernabéu Stadium (right, home of Real Madrid, Europe’s most successful soccer team; bus stops on both sides of the stadium).
Your trip ends at Plaza de Castilla, where you can’t miss the avant-garde Puerta de Europa, consisting of the twin “Torres Kios,” office towers that lean at a 15-degree angle (look for the big green sign BANKIA, for the Bank of Madrid). In the distance, you can see the four tallest buildings in Spain. The plaza sports a futuristic golden obelisk by contemporary Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava.
It’s the end of the line for the bus—and for you. You can return directly to Puerta del Sol on the Metro, or cross the street and ride bus #27 along the same route back to the Prado Museum or Atocha train station.
For a relaxing ride through the characteristic old center of Madrid, hop the little electric minibus #M1 (€1.50, 5/hour, 20-minute trip, Mon-Sat 8:20-20:00, none on Sun). These are designed especially for the difficult-to-access streets in the historic heart of the city, and they’re handy for seniors who could use a lift (offer your seat if you see a senior standing).
The Route: Catch the minibus near the Sevilla Metro stop at the top of Calle Sevilla, and simply ride it to the end (Metro: Embajadores). Enjoy this gritty slice of workaday Madrid—both people and architecture—as you roll slowly through Plaza Santa Ana, down a bit of the pedestrianized Calle de las Huertas, past gentrified Plaza Tirso de Molina (its junkies now replaced by a faded family-friendly flower market), and through Plaza de Lavapiés and a barrio of African and Bangladeshi immigrants. Jump out along the way to explore Lavapiés on foot (see description on next page), or stay on until you get to Embajadores just a few blocks away. From there, you can catch the next #M1 minibus back to the Sevilla Metro stop (it returns along a different route) or descend into the subway system (it’s just two stops back to Sol).
The Lavapiés District: In the Lavapiés neighborhood, the multiethnic tapestry of Madrid enjoys seedy-yet-fun-loving life on the streets. Neighborhoods like this typically experience the same familiar evolution: Initially they’re so cheap that only immigrants, the downtrodden, and counter-culture types live there. The diversity and color they bring attracts those with more money. Businesses erupt to cater to those bohemian/trendy tastes. Rents go up. Those who gave the area its colorful energy in the first place can no longer afford to live there. They move out...and here comes Starbucks.
For now, Lavapiés is still edgy, yet comfortable enough for most. To help rejuvenate the area, the city built the big Centro Dramático Nacional Theater just downhill from Lavapiés’ main square.
The district has almost no tourists. (Some think it’s too scary.) Old ladies with their tired bodies and busy fans hang out on their tiny balconies as they have for 40 years, watching the scene. Shady types lurk on side streets (don’t venture off the main drag, don’t show your wallet or money, and don’t linger late on Plaza de Lavapiés).
If you’re walking, start from Plaza de Antón Martín (Metro: Antón Martín) or Plaza Santa Ana. Find your way to Calle del Ave María (on its way to becoming Calle del Ave Allah) and on to Plaza de Lavapiés (Metro: Lavapiés), where elderly Madrileños hang out with the swarthy drunks and drug dealers; a mosaic of cultures treat this square as a communal living room. Then head up Calle de Lavapiés to the Plaza Tirso de Molina (Metro stop). This square was once plagued by druggies, but is now home to flower kiosks and a playground. This is a good example of Madrid’s vision for reinvigorating its public spaces.
For food, you’ll find plenty of tapas bars plus gritty Indian (almost all run by Bangladeshis) and Moroccan eateries lining Calle de Lavapiés. For Spanish fare try $ Bar Melos, a thriving dive jammed with a hungry and nubile crowd. It’s famous for its giant €11 patty melts called zapatillas de lacón y queso (because they’re the size and shape of a zapatilla, or slipper; feeds at least two, closed Sun-Mon, Calle del Ave María 44).
Madrid’s Plaza de Toros hosts Spain’s top bullfights on most Sundays and holidays from March through mid-October, and nearly every day during the San Isidro festival (May-early June—often sold out long in advance). Fights start between 17:00 and 21:00 (early in spring and fall, late in summer). The bullring is at the Ventas Metro stop (a 25-minute Metro ride from Puerta del Sol, tel. 913-562-200, www.las-ventas.com). For info on the background and “art” of bullfighting, see here.
Getting Tickets: Bullfight tickets range from €5 to €150. There are no bad seats at Plaza de Toros; paying more gets you in the shade and/or closer to the gore. (The action often intentionally occurs in the shade to reward the expensive-ticket holders.) To be close to the bullring, choose areas 8, 9, or 10; for shade: 1, 2, 9, or 10; for shade/sun: 3 or 8; for the sun and cheapest seats: 4, 5, 6, or 7. Note these key words: corrida—a real fight with professionals; novillada—rookie matadors, younger bulls, and cheaper tickets. Getting tickets through your hotel or a booking office is convenient, but they add 20 percent or more and don’t sell the cheapest seats. There are two booking offices, both of which sell tickets online and in person. When buying online, read conditions carefully: The purchase voucher usually must be exchanged for a ticket at the booking office. The easiest place is Bullfight Tickets Madrid at Plaza del Carmen 1 (Mon-Sat 9:00-13:00 & 16:30-19:00, Sun 9:30-14:00, tel. 915-319-131, www.bullfightticketsmadrid.com; run by José and his English-speaking son, also José, who also sells soccer tickets; will deliver tickets to your hotel). A second option is Toros La Central at Calle Victoria 3 (Mon-Fri 10:00-14:00 & 17:00-19:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-13:00, tel. 915-211-213, www.toroslacentral.es).
To save money, you can stand in the ticket line at the bullring. Except for important bullfights—or during the San Isidro festival—there are generally plenty of seats available. About a thousand tickets are held back to be sold in the five days leading up to and on the day of a fight. Scalpers hang out before the popular fights at the Calle Victoria booking office. Beware: Those buying scalped tickets are breaking the law and can lose the ticket with no recourse.
For a dose of the experience, you can buy a cheap ticket and just stay to see a couple of bullfights. Each fight takes about 20 minutes, and the event consists of six bulls over two hours. Or, to keep your distance but get a sense of the ritual and gore, tour the bull bar on Plaza Mayor (described on here).
Bullfighting Museum (Museo Taurino): This museum, located at the back of the bullring, is not as good as the ones in Sevilla or Ronda (free, Sun 10:00-13:00, Mon-Fri 9:30-14:30, closed Sat, closes early on fight days, tel. 917-251-857).
Madrid, like most of Europe, is enthusiastic about soccer (which they call fútbol). The Real (“Royal”) Madrid team plays to a spirited crowd Saturdays and Sundays from September through May (tickets from €50—sold at bullfight box offices listed earlier). One of the most popular sightseeing activities among European visitors to Madrid is touring the 80,000-seat stadium. The €24 unguided visit includes the box seats, dressing rooms, technical zone, playing field, trophy room, and a big panoramic stadium view (Mon-Sat 10:00-19:00, Sun 10:30-18:30, shorter hours on game days, bus #27—see self-guided bus tour on here—or Metro: Santiago Bernabéu, tel. 913-984-300, www.realmadrid.com). Even if you can’t catch a game, you’ll see plenty of Real Madrid’s all-white jerseys and paraphernalia around town.
Madrileños have a passion for shopping. It’s a social event, often incorporated into their afternoon paseo, which eventually turns into drinks and dinner. Most shoppers focus on the colorful pedestrian area between and around Gran Vía and Puerta del Sol. Here you’ll find shops like H&M and Zara clothing, Imaginarium toys, FNAC books and music, and a handful of small local shops. The fanciest big-name shops (Gucci, Prada, and the like) tempt strollers along Calle Serrano, northwest of Retiro Park. For trendier chain shops and local fashion, head to pedestrian Calle Fuencarral, Calle Augusto Figueroa, and the streets surrounding Plaza de Chueca (north of Gran Vía, Metro: Chueca). Here are some other places to check out:
The giant El Corte Inglés, with several buildings strung between Puerta del Sol and Plaza del Callou, is a handy place to pick up just about anything you need (Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 11:00-21:00). For details, see here.
Europe’s biggest flea market is a field day for shoppers, people-watchers, and pickpockets (Sun only, 9:00-15:00). It’s best before 11:00, though bargain shoppers like to go around 14:00, when vendors are more willing to strike end-of-day deals. Thousands of stalls titillate more than a million browsers with mostly new junk. Locals have lamented the tackiness of El Rastro lately—on the main drag, you’ll find cheap underwear and bootleg CDs, but no real treasures.
For an interesting market day (Sun only), start at Plaza Mayor, where Europe’s biggest stamp and coin market thrives. Enjoy this genteel delight as you watch old-timers paging lovingly through each other’s albums, looking for win-win trades. When you’re done, head south or take the Metro to Tirso de Molina. Walk downhill, wandering off on the side streets to browse antiques, old furniture, and garage-sale-style sellers who often simply throw everything out on a sheet. Find a fantastic scene on Plaza del Campillo del Mundo Nuevo where kids and adults leaf through each other’s albums of soccer cards and negotiate over trades.
A typical Madrileño’s Sunday could involve a meander through the Rastro streets with several stops for cañas (small beers) at the gritty bars along the way, then a walk to the Cava Baja area for more beer and tapas (see here). El Rastro offers a fascinating chance to see gangs of young thieves overwhelming and ripping off naive tourists while plainclothes police officers circulate and do their best. Don’t even bring a wallet. The pickpocket action is brutal.
These places are fun to browse for Spanish specialties and locally made goods.
Ceramics: Antigua Casa Talavera has sold hand-made ceramics from Spain’s family craftsmen since 1904. They can explain the various regional styles and colors of pottery and tiles, based on traditional designs from the 11th to 19th century (Mon-Fri 10:00-13:30 & 17:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-13:30, closed Sun, Calle Isabel La Católica 2, tel. 915-473-417, www.antiguacasatalavera.com).
Leather: Taller Puntera is a workshop and store where the new generation carries on a longtime family tradition of Madrileño leather artisans. They design and create all of their products onsite, from bags to shoes and more (Mon-Sat 10:00-15:00 & 17:00-20:30, closed Sun, Plaza Conde de Barajas 4, tel. 913-642-926, www.puntera.com).
Shoes: For the shoe street in Madrid head up Calle Fuencarral and take a right onto Calle Augusto Figueroa. Walk a couple of blocks down to find one local zapatería after another. On Gran Vía, Calle Arenal, or Calle Preciados, you’ll also find Camper shoes, launched in 1975 on the Spanish island of Mallorca. This popular brand is now relatively easy to find around the world, though here in Madrid you may see more styles (daily, Calle Preciados 23, tel. 915-317-897, www.camper.com).
Souvenirs: Casa de Diego sells abanicos (fans), mantones (typical Spanish shawls), castañuelas (castanets), peinetas (hair combs), and umbrellas. Even if you’re not in the market, it’s fun to watch the women flip open their final fan choices before buying—for them it is not a souvenir, but an important piece of their wardrobe (Mon-Sat 9:30-20:00, closed Sun, Puerta del Sol 12, tel. 915-226-643).
Guitars: Spain makes some of the world’s finest classical guitars. Several of the top workshops, within an easy walk of Puerta del Sol, offer inviting little showrooms that give a peek at their craft and an opportunity to strum the final product. Consider the workshops of José Romero (Calle de Espoz y Mina 30, tel. 915-214-218) and José Ramirez (Calle de la Paz 8, tel. 915-314-229). Union Musical is a popular guitar shop off Puerta del Sol (Carrera de San Jerónimo 26, tel. 914-293-877). If you’re looking to buy, be prepared to spend €1,000.
Those into clubbing may have to wait until after midnight for the most popular places to even open, much less start hopping. Spain has a reputation for partying very late and not stopping until offices open in the morning. (Spaniards, who are often awake into the wee hours of the morning, have a special word for this time of day: la madrugada.) If you’re out early in the morning, it’s actually hard to tell who is finishing their day and who’s just starting it. Even if you’re not a party animal after midnight, make a point to be out with the happy masses, luxuriating in the cool evening air between 22:00 and midnight. The scene is absolutely unforgettable.
Just walking the streets of Madrid seems to be the way the Madrileños spend their evenings. Even past midnight on a hot summer night, entire families with little kids are strolling, enjoying tiny beers and tapas in a series of bars, licking ice cream, and greeting their neighbors. Good areas to wander include from Puerta del Sol to Plaza Mayor and down Calle del Arenal until you hit Plaza de Isabel II; the pedestrianized Calle de las Huertas from Plaza Mayor to the Prado; along Gran Vía from about Plaza de Callao to Plaza de España, following the last section of my “Gran Vía Walk” (described earlier); and, to window shop with the young and trendy, up Calle de Fuencarral (keep going until you hit traffic).
For a delightful look at Spanish light opera that even English speakers can enjoy, try zarzuela. Guitar-strumming Napoleons in red capes; buxom women with masks, fans, and castanets; Spanish-speaking pharaohs; melodramatic spotlights; and aficionados clapping and singing along from the cheap seats, where the acoustics are best—this is zarzuela...the people’s opera. Originating in Madrid, zarzuela is known for its satiric humor and surprisingly good music. Performances occur evenings at Teatro de la Zarzuela, which alternates between zarzuela, ballet, and opera throughout the year. The TI’s monthly guide has a special zarzuela section. Be aware that not all shows at the Teatro de la Zarzuela are zarzuelas.
Getting Tickets: Prices range from €16-40, 50 percent off for Wed shows and anytime for those over 65, Teatro de la Zarzuela box office open Mon-Fri 12:00-18:00 and Sat-Sun 15:00-18:00 for advance tickets or until show time for same-day tickets, near the Prado at Jovellanos 4, Metro: Sevilla or Banco de España, tel. 915-245-400, http://teatrodelazarzuela.mcu.es. To purchase tickets online, go to www.entradasinaem.es and click on “Espacios” (“Spaces”) to find Teatro de la Zarzuela; you will receive an email with your tickets, which you need to print before you arrive at the theater.
Although Sevilla is the capital of flamenco, Madrid has a few easy and affordable options. And on summer evenings, Madrid puts on live flamenco events in the Royal Palace gardens (ask TI for details). Among the listings below, Casa Patas is grumpy, while Carboneras is friendlier—but Casa Patas has better-quality artists and a riveting seriousness.
Taberna Casa Patas attracts big-name flamenco artists. You’ll quickly understand why this intimate venue (30 tables, 120 seats) is named “House of Feet.” Since this is for locals as well as tour groups, the flamenco is contemporary and may be jazzier than your notion—it depends on who’s performing (€38 includes cover and first drink, Mon-Thu at 22:30, Fri-Sat at 20:00 and 22:30, closed Sun, 1.25-1.5 hours, reservations smart, no flash cameras, Cañizares 10—see map on here, tel. 913-690-496, www.casapatas.com). Its restaurant is a logical spot for dinner before the show (€30 dinners, Mon-Sat from 18:30).
Las Carboneras, more downscale, is an easygoing, folksy little place a few steps from Plaza Mayor with a nightly hour-long flamenco show (€36 includes entry and a drink, €69 gets you a table up front with dinner and unlimited cheap drinks if you reserve ahead, manager Enrique promises a €5/person discount if you book directly and show this book in 2018, daily at 20:30, also Mon-Thu at 22:30 and Fri-Sat at 23:00, reservations recommended, Plaza del Conde de Miranda 1—see map on here, tel. 915-428-677, www.tablaolascarboneras.com). Dinner is served one hour before showtime.
Las Tablas Flamenco offers a less-expensive nightly show respecting the traditional art of flamenco. You’ll sit in a plain room with a mix of tourists and cool, young Madrileños in a modern, nondescript office block just over the freeway from Plaza de España (€29 with drink, reasonable drink prices, shows daily at 20:00 and usually also at 22:00, 1.25 hours, corner of Calle de Ferraz and Cuesta de San Vicente at Plaza de España 9—see map on here, tel. 915-420-520, www.lastablasmadrid.com).
More Flamenco: Regardless of what your hotel receptionist may want to sell you, other flamenco places—such as Arco de Cuchilleros (Calle de los Cuchilleros 7), Café de Chinitas (Calle Torija 7, just off Plaza Mayor), Corral de la Morería (Calle de Morería 17), and Torres Bermejas (off Gran Vía)—are filled with tourists and pushy waiters.
These long, skinny, cave-like bars, famous for customers drinking and singing late into the night, line the lane called Cava de San Miguel, just west of Plaza Mayor (see map on here). If you were to toss lowbrow barflies, Spanish karaoke, electric keyboards, crass tourists, cheap sangria, and greasy calamari into a late-night blender and turn it on, this is what you’d get. They’re generally lively only on Friday and Saturday.
If you’re just picking up speed at midnight and looking for a place filled with old tiles and a Gen-X crowd, power into Bar Viva Madrid (daily 13:00-late, downhill from Plaza Santa Ana at Calle Manuel Fernández y González 7—see map on here, tel. 914-293-640). The same street has other bars filled with music. Or hike on over to Chocolatería San Ginés (described on here) for a dessert of churros con chocolate.
For live jazz, Café Central is the old town favorite. Since 1982 it’s been known as the place where rising stars get their start (€16, nightly at 21:00—stop by to reserve your table or come early to score one of the unreserved seats by the bar, food and drinks available, great scene, Plaza del Ángel 10—see map on here, tel. 913-694-143, www.cafecentralmadrid.com).
Movies in Spain remain about the most often dubbed in Europe. To see a movie with its original soundtrack, look for “V.O.” (meaning “original version”). Cine Ideal, with nine screens, is a good place for the latest films in V.O. (assigned seats during most days and showings, good to get tickets early on weekends, 5-minute walk south of Puerta del Sol at Calle del Dr. Cortezo 6—see map on here, tel. 913-692-518 for info, www.yelmocines.es). For extensive listings, see the Guía del Ocio entertainment guide (described on here) or a local newspaper.
Madrid has plenty of centrally located budget hotels and pensiones. Most of the accommodations I’ve listed are within a few minutes’ walk of Puerta del Sol.
Most of the year you should be able to find a sleepable double for €70, a good double for €100, and a modern, air-conditioned double with all the comforts for €150. Prices vary dramatically throughout the year at bigger hotels, but remain about the same for the smaller hotels and hostales. It’s almost always easy to find a place. Anticipate full hotels only in May (the San Isidro festival, celebrating Madrid’s patron saint with bullfights and zarzuelas—especially around his feast day on May 15), around Easter, during LGBT Pride Week at the end of June, and in September (when conventions can clog the city). During the hot months of July and August, prices can be soft—ask for a discount.
With all of Madrid’s street noise, I’d request the highest floor possible. Also, twin-bedded rooms are generally a bit larger than double-bedded rooms for the same price. During slow times, drop-ins can often score a room in business-class hotels for just a few euros more than the budget hotels (which don’t have prices that fluctuate as wildly with demand). Breakfast is generally not offered—when it is, it’s often expensive (about €15; see the sidebar for breakfast options).
Smoking bans have changed the atmosphere in hotel reception areas and hallways, but things aren’t completely smoke-free, as hotels are still allowed to designate up to 10 percent of their rooms for smokers.
These mostly business-class hotels are good values (especially Hotel Europa) for those willing to spend a little more. Their formal prices may be inflated, but most offer weekend and summer discounts when it’s slow. Drivers pay about €24 a day in garages.
These hotels are located in and around the pedestrian zone north and west of Puerta del Sol. Use Metro: Sol for these listings unless noted otherwise.
$$$$ Hotel Intur Palacio San Martín is perfectly tucked away from the hustle of the center next to the Descalzas Monastery. It has bright, spacious public areas and comfortable, traditionally decorated rooms (air-con, elevator, Plaza San Martín 5, tel. 917-015-000, www.hotel-inturpalaciosanmartin.com, sanmartin@intur.com).
$$$$ Hotel Ópera, a serious and contemporary hotel with 79 classy rooms, is located just off Plaza Isabel II, a four-block walk from Puerta del Sol toward the Royal Palace (RS%, includes breakfast, air-con, elevator, sauna and gym, ask for a higher floor—there are nine—to avoid street noise, Cuesta de Santo Domingo 2, Metro: Ópera, tel. 915-412-800, www.hotelopera.com, reservas@hotelopera.com). Hotel Ópera’s cafeteria is deservedly popular. Consider their “singing dinners”—great operetta music with a delightful dinner—offered nightly (around €60, reservations smart, call 915-426-382 or reserve at hotel).
$$$ Hotel H10 Reina Victoria is a tidy, upgraded, early-20th-century boutique hotel in the heart of the pulsing Gran Vía (air-con, elevator, Gran Vía 22, tel. 915-239-101, www.h10hotels.com, H10.villa.delareina@H10hotels.com).
$$$ Hotel Preciados, a four-star business hotel, has 100 welcoming, sleek, and modern rooms as well as elegant lounges. It’s well-located and reasonably priced for the luxury it provides (free mini-bar, air-con, elevator, pay parking, just off Plaza de Santo Domingo at Calle Preciados 37, Metro: Callao, tel. 914-544-400, www.preciadoshotel.com, preciadoshotel@preciadoshotel.com).
$$$ Hotel Liabeny rents 213 plush, spacious, business-class rooms offering all the comforts (air-con, elevator, sauna, gym, off Plaza del Carmen at Salud 3, tel. 915-319-000, www.liabeny.es, reservas@hotelliabeny.com).
$$$ Hotel Francisco I is a big, quiet, and well-run place with 60 rooms, nicely situated midway between the Royal Theater and Puerta del Sol; they also have an annex just two doors away (air-con, showers only, elevator, Calle del Arenal 15, tel. 915-480-204, www.hotelfrancisco.com, info@hotelfrancisco.com).
$$$ Ateneo Hotel, just steps off Puerta del Sol, lacks public spaces and character, but its 38 rooms are close to business-class (RS%, air-con, elevator, Calle de la Montera 22, tel. 915-212-012, www.hotel-ateneo.com, info@hotel-ateneo.com).
$$ Hotel Europa, with sleek marble, red carpet runners along the halls, happy Muzak charm, and an attentive staff, is a tremendous value. It rents 100 squeaky-clean rooms, many with balconies overlooking the pedestrian zone or an inner courtyard. The hotel has an honest ethos and offers a straight price (family rooms, air-con, elevator, Calle del Carmen 4, tel. 915-212-900, www.hoteleuropa.eu, info@hoteleuropa.eu, run by Antonio and Fernando Garaban and their helpful and jovial staff, Javi, Jim, and Tomás. The recommended $$ Restaurante-Cafeteria Europa is a lively and convivial scene—fun for breakfast.
$$ Hotel Moderno, renting 97 rooms, has a quiet, professional, and friendly atmosphere. There’s a comfy first-floor lounge and a convenient location close to Puerta del Sol (air-con, Calle del Arenal 2, tel. 915-310-900, www.hotel-moderno.com, info@hotel-moderno.com).
Both of these are a block off Plaza Mayor.
$$$$ Petit Palace Posada del Peine feels like part of a big, modern chain (which it is), but fills its well-located old building with fresh, efficient character. Behind the ornate Old World facade is a comfortable and modern business-class hotel with 67 rooms (air-con, Calle Postas 17, tel. 915-238-151, www.petitpalace.com, posadadelpeine@petitpalace.com).
$ Hotel Plaza Mayor, with 41 solidly outfitted rooms, is tastefully decorated and beautifully situated a block off Plaza Mayor (breakfast included for Rick Steves readers who book by email or phone, air-con, elevator, Calle de Atocha 2, tel. 913-600-606, www.h-plazamayor.com, info@h-plazamayor.com).
$$$$ Mercure Madrid Centro Hotel Lope de Vega offers good business-class hotel value near the Prado. It is a “cultural-themed” hotel inspired by the 17th-century writer Lope de Vega. With 59 rooms, it feels cozy and friendly for a formal hotel (family rooms, air-con, elevator, very limited pay parking—reserve ahead, Calle Lope de Vega 49—see map on here, tel. 913-600-011, www.accor.com, H9618@accor.com).
These three are all in the same building at Calle de la Salud 13, north of Puerta del Sol. The building overlooks Plaza del Carmen—a little square with a sleepy, almost Parisian ambience.
$ Hostal Acapulco rents 16 bright rooms with air-conditioning and all the big hotel gear. The neighborhood is quiet enough that it’s smart to request a room with a balcony (family room, elevator, fourth floor, reasonable laundry service, overnight luggage storage, parking—reserve ahead, tel. 915-311-945, www.hostalacapulco.com, hostal_acapulco@yahoo.es, Ana, Marco, and Javier).
$ Hostal Triana, also a good deal, is bigger—with 40 rooms—and offers a little less charm for a little less money (some rooms have air-con, others have fans; elevator and some stairs, first floor, tel. 915-326-812, www.hostaltriana.com, triana@hostaltriana.com, Victor González).
¢ Pensión Arcos is tiny, granny-run, and old-fashioned—it’s been in the Hernández family since 1936. You can reserve by phone (in Spanish), and you must pay in cash—but its five rooms are clean, extra quiet, and served by an elevator. You also have access to a tiny roof terrace and a nice little lounge. For cheap beds in a great locale, assuming you can communicate, this place is unbeatable (cheaper rooms with shared bath, air-con, closed Aug, fifth floor, tel. 915-324-994, Anuncia and Sabino).
$ Hostal Santa Cruz, simple and well-located, has 16 rooms at a good price (air-con, elevator, Plaza de Santa Cruz 6, second floor, tel. 915-222-441, www.hostalsantacruz.com, info@hostalsantacruz.com).
$ Hostal Mayrit and Hostal Ivor rent 28 rooms with thoughtful touches on pedestrianized Calle del Arenal (air-con, elevator, near Metro: Ópera at Calle del Arenal 24, reception on third floor, tel. 915-480-403, www.hostalivor.com, reservas@hostalivor.com).
These places are a few minutes’ walk from Puerta del Sol and a stone’s throw from Gran Vía at the top of Calle de la Montera, which some dislike because of the prostitutes who hang out here. They’re legal, and the zone is otherwise safe and comfortable.
$$$$ Hotel Praktik Metropol sports plaid-and-striped hipster decor in its 70 fresh, modern rooms. Many rooms are tiny and on the building’s interior—ask for a corner room or pay extra for the bigger superior double. The spectacular views from the top-floor “skyline” rooms are worth the extra money, too. All guests have access to a rooftop terrace with views (air-con, elevator, reception on first floor, Calle de la Montera 47, tel. 915-212-935, www.hotelpraktikmetropol.com, reservas@hotelpraktikmetropol.com).
$ Hostal Residencia Luis XV is a big, plain, well-run, and clean place offering a good value. It’s on a quiet eighth floor (air-con, elevator, Calle de la Montera 47, tel. 915-221-021, www.hostalluisxvmadrid.com, info@hostalaliste.net). They also run the 44-room $ Hostal Jerez—similar in every way—on the sixth floor (tel. 915-327-565, www.hostaljerezmadrid.com/en, reservas@hrjerez.net). Both properties are completely nonsmoking.
$ Hostal Don Juan sits on a quiet-by-day, busy-by-night square just off the Gran Vía in the beginning of the Chueca neighborhood. Its 44 rooms are clean and modern, contrasting with the Baroque explosion of varnish and gold in the common areas (air-con, elevator, Plaza Pedro Zerolo 1—former Plaza Vázquez de Mella, second floor, tel. 915-223-101, hshostaldonjuan@gmail.com).
For locations of the following places, see the map on here.
Two fine budget hostales are at Cervantes 34 (Metro: Antón Martín—but not handy to Metro). Both are homey, with inviting lounge areas; neither serves breakfast. $ Hostal Gonzalo has 15 spotless, comfortable rooms on the third floor and is well-run by friendly and helpful Javier. It’s deservedly in all the guidebooks, so reserve in advance (air-con, elevator, tel. 914-292-714, www.hostalgonzalo.com, hostal@hostalgonzalo.com). Downstairs, the nearly-as-polished $ Hostal Cervantes also has 15 rooms (some rooms with air-con, tel. 914-298-365, www.hostal-cervantes.com, correo@hostal-cervantes.com, Fabio).
$ Urban Sea Hotel Atocha 113 is a basic but contemporary option that is nicely located between the Prado and the Reina Sofía, near Atocha station (includes self-service snacks, small rooftop terrace, Calle de Atocha 113, tel. 913-692-895, www.urbanseahotels.com, recepcionatocha@blueseahotels.es).
¢ Madrid Municipal Youth Hostel (Albergue Juvenil Madrid) is fairly new and decidedly big, with 132 beds. A Metro ride north of downtown, it has four to six beds per room, modern bathrooms, and lots of extras, such as billiards and movies (includes breakfast, coed rooms, 24-hour reception; Metro: Tribunal, then walk 2 minutes down Calle de Barceló to Calle de Mejia Lequerica 21; tel. 915-939-688).
In Spain, only Barcelona rivals Madrid for taste-bud thrills. You have three dining choices: a memorable, atmospheric sit-down meal in a well-chosen restaurant; a forgettable, basic sit-down meal; or a meal of tapas at a bar or two...or four. Unless otherwise noted, restaurants start serving lunch at 13:00 or 13:30 and dinner around 20:30. Depending on what time you show up, the same place may seem forlorn, touristy, or thriving with local eaters. Many restaurants close in August. Madrid has famously good tap water, and waiters willingly serve it free—just ask for agua del grifo. Restaurants and bars in Spain are smoke-free inside, but lighting up is allowed in outdoor seating areas.
I’ve broken my recommended choices into groups: serious dining establishments, tapas places, and simple, economical venues. For suggestions on where to eat near the Royal Palace, Prado, and Reina Sofía, see their individual sight listings.
$$$$ Restaurante Casa Paco is a Madrid tradition. Check out its old walls plastered with autographed photos of Spanish celebrities who have enjoyed their signature dish—ox grilled over a coal fire. Though popular with tourists, the place is authentic, confident, and uncompromising. It’s a worthwhile splurge if you want to dine out well and carnivorously (closed Mon, Plaza de la Puerta Cerrada 11, tel. 913-663-166, www.casapaco1933.es).
$$$$ Sobrino del Botín is a hit with many Americans because “Hemingway ate here.” It’s grotesquely touristy, pricey, and the last place “Papa” would go now...but still, people love it and go for the roast suckling pig, their specialty. I’d eat upstairs for a still-traditional but airier atmosphere (daily 13:00-16:00 & 20:00-24:00, a block downhill from Plaza Mayor at Cuchilleros 17, tel. 913-664-217, www.botin.es).
$$$$ Casa Lucio is a favorite splurge for traditional specialties among power-dressing Madrileños. Juan Carlos and Sofía, the former king and queen of Spain, eat in this formal place, but it’s accessible to commoners. This is a good restaurant for a special night out and a full-blown meal, but you pay extra for this place’s fame (daily 13:00-16:00 & 20:30-24:00, closed Aug, Calle Cava Baja 35; unless you’re the king or queen, reserve several days in advance—and don’t even bother on weekends; tel. 913-653-252, www.casalucio.es).
$$$$ Restaurante Palacio de Cibeles, with a dress-up interior on the sixth floor of the Palacio de Cibeles (City Hall), features an outdoor terrace with spectacular views, an extensive wine list, and a creative, seasonal Spanish menu (daily 13:00-16:00 & 20:00-24:00, Plaza de Cibeles 1—see map on here, tel. 915-231-454, www.adolfo-palaciodecibeles.com). The neighboring and swanky $$ Terrace Cibeles serves drinks and light bites late into the night on its outdoor terrace (open only in good weather, daily 13:00-24:00). The first-floor $$ Colección Cibeles offers a simplified and less expensive version of Restaurante Palacio’s fare (daily 10:00-24:00).
$$$ El Caldero (“The Pot”) is a romantic spot and a good place for paella and other rice dishes. A classy, in-the-know crowd appreciates its subdued elegance and crisp service. The house specialty, arroz caldero (a variation on paella), is served with panache from a cauldron hanging from a tripod. Most of the formal rice dishes come in pots for two (closed Sun-Mon, Calle de las Huertas 15, tel. 914-295-044). Wash it all down with the house sangria.
$$$ TriCiclo Restaurant is a classy choice for romantic foodies. It serves creative fare with a traditional base from a fun and accessible menu. While the rustically elegant restaurant takes reservations, the bar in front has several small tables for two that are generally open if you arrive at 20:30 (open Mon-Sat 13:30-16:00 & 20:30-24:00, closed Sun, reserve for restaurant, Calle Santa Maria 28, tel. 910-244-798, www.eltriciclo.es).
$$$$ La Bola Taberna, touristy but friendly and tastefully elegant, specializes in cocido Madrileño—Madrid stew. The stew, made of various meats, carrots, and garbanzo beans in earthen jugs, is a winter dish, prepared here for the tourists all year. It’s served as two courses: First enjoy the broth as a soup, then dig into the meat and veggies. Curious about how it’s made? Ask to take a peek in the kitchen (cash only, daily lunch seatings at 13:30 and 15:30, dinner 20:30-23:00, closed Sun in July-Aug, midway between Royal Palace and Gran Vía at Calle Bola 5, tel. 915-476-930, http://labola.es).
Treating Tapas Bars as Restaurants: Of the many recommended tabernas and tapas bars listed below, several have tables and menus that lend themselves to fine dining. If you don’t mind the commotion of the nearby bar action, you can order high on the menu in these places and, I’d say, eat better and more economically than in the more formal restaurants listed above.
For maximum fun, people, and atmosphere, go mobile for dinner: Do the tapeo, a local tradition of going from one bar to the next, munching, drinking, and socializing. If done properly, a pub crawl can be a highlight of your trip. Before embarking upon this culinary adventure, study and use the tapas tips on here. Your ability to speak a little Spanish will get you a much better (and less expensive) experience. While tiny tapas plates are standard in Andalucía, these days most of Madrid’s bars offer bigger plates for around €6 (vegetables) to €15 (fish). Called raciones, these are ideal for a small group to share. The real action begins late (around 21:00). While the energy is fun and local later in the evening, you may find it easier to get service and a spot by dining earlier—which is still late by American standards.
In Madrid, you’ll occasionally find a bar that gives a free tapa to anyone ordering a drink, a dying tradition. But if you order any food with your drink, you won’t get the free dish. If you care (and you should), always order the drink alone first and expect a tapa. If you don’t get one, ask, “Tapa?” as if expecting the little bonus. Once you get it, order additional food as you like.
There are tapas bars almost everywhere, but two areas in the city center are particularly rewarding for a bar-crawl meal: Calle de Jesús (near the Prado) is the easiest, with several wonderful and diverse places in a two-block row, while trendy Calle Cava Baja has fancier offerings and feels most energetic. A third area, between Puerta del Sol and Plaza Santa Ana, is more central but overrun with tourists.
This two-block stretch of tapas bars offers a variety of fun places. While the offerings are pretty similar, each has its own personality. Most have chaotic bars in front and small and inviting sections with tables in back. Make the circuit and eyeball each place to see which appeals—you’ll see that there’s no reason to spend all your time and appetite at your first stop. Calle de Jesús stretches between Calle de Cervantes and Calle de las Huertas, behind the Palace Hotel (across the boulevard from the Prado—see map on here). In the middle is the Plaza de Jesús, so named because this is the location of the Basilica of Jesús de Medinaceli (home to a relic that attracts huge crowds of pilgrims on special days). Start near the church at the first recommended bar, Cervecería Cervantes. These places are generally open every day for long hours.
$$ Cervecería Cervantes serves hearty raciones, specializes in octopus, and has both a fine bar and good restaurant seating (intersection of Plaza de Jesús and Calle de Cervantes, tel. 914-296-093).
$$ Taberna de la Daniela Medinaceli, part of a local chain, is popular for its specialty cocido madrileño—a rich chickpea-based soup. It has a lovely dining area if you want to settle in for a while (Plaza de Jesús 7, tel. 913-896-238).
$$ La Dolores, with a rustic little dining area, has been a hit since 1908 and is still extremely popular. Its canapés (little sandwiches) are listed on the wall (Plaza de Jesús 4, tel. 914-292-243).
$$ Cervezas La Fabrica packs in seafood lovers at the bar; a quieter back room is available for those preferring a table. Prices are the same in both spots (Calle de Jesús 2, tel. 913-690-671). They serve a nice cava (Spanish sparkling wine), which goes well with seafood.
$$ Cervecería Los Gatos is a kaleidoscope of Spanish culture, with chandeliers swinging above wine barrels in the intense bar area and characteristic tables in the more peaceful zone behind (Calle de Jesús 2, tel. 914-293-067).
$$ La Anchoíta is named “the little anchovy” for its anchoas (cured anchovies—salty) and boquerones (cured-in-vinegar anchovies, ask for bread if necessary). The three taps serve regular beer, “sin” (nonalcoholic) beer, and vermut (vermouth) from a tap shaped like a shrimp. If drinking white wine, get it in a frozen glass—ask for “copa fría” (Calle de Jesús 4, tel. 913-601-674).
$$$ Taberna Maceira, perhaps the best of the bunch, feels like Northern Spain. It’s a Galician place with a wonderfully woody and rustic energy. A sit-down restaurant (not a bar), it specializes in octopus, cod, pimientos de Padrón (green peppers), and caldo gallego (white bean soup)—all classic Galician specialties of northwest Spain. Every day, the sign reads, “no hay Coca-Cola”—“no Coke” (13:00-16:00 & 20:30-24:00, closed Sun, Calle de Jesús 7, tel. 914-291-584).
A few minutes’ walk south of Plaza Mayor, Calle Cava Baja fills each evening with a young, professional crowd prowling for chic tapas and social fun. Come at night only and treat the entire street as a destination. I’ve listed a few standards, but excellent new eateries are always opening up. For a good, authentic Madrid dinner experience, survey the many options here and then choose your favorites. Remember, it’s easier and touristy early, jammed with locals later. (If you want a formal dining experience on this street, come early and pick one you like with tables in the back, or see the places recommended under “Fine Dining,” earlier. Taberna Tempranillo or Juana la Loca would be my first choices.) These tapas bars, listed in the order you’ll reach them as you walk from Plaza Mayor up Calle Cava Baja, are worth special consideration.
$$ El Madroño (“The Berry Tree,” a symbol of Madrid), more of a cowboy bar, serves all the clichés. If Knott’s Berry Farm was Spanish, this would be its restaurant. Preserving a bit of old Madrid, a tile copy of Velázquez’s famous Drinkers grins from its facade. Inside, look above the stairs for photos of 1902 Madrid. Study the coats of arms of Madrid through the centuries as you try a vermut (vermouth) on tap. Or ask for a small glass (chupito) of the licor de madroño. Indoor seating is bright and colorful; the sidewalk tables come with good people-watching. Munch raciones at the bar or front tables to be in the fun scene, or have a quieter sit-down meal at the tables in the back (daily, a block off the top of Calle Cava Baja at Plaza de la Puerta Cerrada 7, tel. 913-645-629).
$$ Txakolina Pintxoteca Madrileña is a thriving bar serving Basque-style pinchos (fancy open-faced sandwiches—pintxo in Basque) to a young crowd (Calle Cava Baja 26, tel. 913-664-877).
$$ Taberna Los Huevos de Lucio, owned by the same family as the reputable Casa Lucio (described earlier, under “Fine Dining”), is a jam-packed bar serving good tapas, salads, huevos estrellados (fried eggs over fried potatoes), and wine. If you’d like to make it a sit-down meal, head to the tables in the back (avoid the basement, Calle Cava Baja 30, tel. 913-662-984).
$$ Taberna Tempranillo, ideal for hungry wine lovers, offers fancy tapas and fine wine by the glass (see listing on the board or ask for their English menu). While there are a few tables, the bar is just right for hanging out. With a spirit of adventure, use their fascinating menu to assemble your dream meal. When I order high on their menu, I’m generally very happy. The crowds here can be overwhelming. Arrive by 20:00 or plan to wait (closed Aug, Calle Cava Baja 38, tel. 913-641-532).
$$ Juana la Loca Pintxos Bar (“Crazy Juana”) packs in the locals and offers elegant raciones, refined-yet-tight seating, gorgeously presented dishes from a foodie menu, and reasonable prices considering the quality. Their classic is the runny tortilla de patatas with slightly caramelized onions. While it’s a bar, you could arrive early to snare a table, and treat it as a nice restaurant outing (Plaza Puerta de Moros 4, tel. 913-665-500).
The little streets between Puerta del Sol, San Jerónimo, and Plaza Santa Ana are submerged in a flood of numbskull tourism. But they’re also very central...and hold some tasty surprises.
• Start at the intersection of Carrera de San Jerónimo and Calle Victoria.
$$ Museo del Jamón (Museum of Ham), festooned with ham hocks, is a fun place to see—unless you’re a pig (or a vegetarian). Its frenetic, cheap, stand-up bar (with famously rude service) is an assembly line of fast-and-simple bocadillos and raciones. If you order anything, get only a cheap sandwich, because the staff is not honest. Take advantage of the easy photo-illustrated menus that show various dishes and their prices. The best ham is the pricey jamón ibérico—from pigs who led stress-free lives in acorn-strewn valleys. Point clearly to what you want, and be very specific to avoid being served a pricier meal than you intended. For a small sandwich, ask for a chiquito (daily 9:00-24:00, air-con).
• Across the street is the touristy and overpriced bull bar, La Taurina. (I wouldn’t eat here, but you’re welcome to ponder the graphic photos that celebrate the gory art of bullfighting.) And next door, take a detour from your pub crawl with something more suited to grandmothers.
$$ Lhardy Pastelería offers a genteel taste of Old World charm in this district of rowdy pubs. This peaceful time warp has been a fixture since 1839 for Madrileños wanting to duck in for a cup of consommé or a light snack. Step right in, and pretend you’re an aristocrat back between the wars. Serve yourself. Pay as you leave (on the honor system). Help yourself to the silver water dispenser (free), a line of elegant bottles (each a different Iberian fortified wine: sherry, port, and so on), a revolving case of meaty little pastries, and a fancy soup dispenser (chicken broth consommé, try it with a splash of sherry...local style—bottles in the corner, help yourself; Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun until 15:00; Carrera de San Jerónimo 8, tel. 915-222-207). A very classy $$$$ dinner-only restaurant hides upstairs.
• Next, forage up Calle Victoria. The bars on this street and nearby lanes offer bloated prices and all the clichés.
$$ La Casa del Abuelo serves sizzling plates of tasty little gambas (shrimp) and langostinos (prawns), with bread to sop up the delightful juices. Try gambas a la plancha (grilled shrimp) or gambas al ajillo (ah-HEE-yoh, a small clay dish of shrimp cooked in oil and garlic); wash it down with a glass of sweet red house wine (Calle Victoria 12).
• Head down to Calle de la Cruz.
$$ La Oreja de Jaime is known for its sautéed pigs’ ears (oreja). While pig ears are a Madrid dish (fun to try, hard to swallow), this place is Galician—they serve pimientos de Padrón (sautéed miniature green peppers) and the distinctive ribeiro (ree-BAY-roh) wine, served Galician-style, in characteristic little ceramic bowls to disguise its lack of clarity (Calle de la Cruz 12).
• For a finale, continue up Calle de la Cruz.
$$ Casa Toni is good for classic dishes like patatas bravas (fried potatoes in a spicy sauce), berenjena (deep-fried slices of eggplant), champiñones (sautéed mushrooms), and gazpacho—the cold tomato-and-garlic soup that is generally served only during the hot season, but available here year-round just for tourists like you (Calle de la Cruz 14).
• If you’re still hungry, three blocks past nearby Plaza Santa Ana is...
$$$ Casa Gonzalez, a venerable gourmet cheese-and-wine shop with a circa-1930s interior. Away from the tourist scene, it offers a genteel opportunity to enjoy a plate of first-class cheese and a fine glass of wine with friendly service and a fun setting recalling the happy days of the Republic of Spain—after the monarchy but before Franco. Their €17.50 assortment of five Spanish cheeses—more than enough for two—is a cheese lover’s treat (40 wines by the glass, long hours daily except closed Sun evening, Calle de León 12, tel. 914-295-618, Francisco and Luciano).
Madrileños enjoy a bite to eat on Plaza Mayor (without its high costs) by grabbing food to go from a nearby bar and just planting themselves somewhere on the square to eat (squid sandwiches are popular). But for many tourists, dinner at a sidewalk café right on Plaza Mayor is worth the premium price (consider Cervecería Pulpito, southwest corner of the square at #10).
Squid Sandwiches: Plaza Mayor is famous for its bocadillos de calamares. For a tasty squid-ring sandwich, line up at $ Casa Rúa at Plaza Mayor’s northwest corner, a few steps up Calle Ciudad Rodrigo (daily 11:00-23:00). Hanging up behind the bar is a photo-advertisement of Plaza Mayor from the 1950s, when the square contained a park.
$$ Mercado de San Miguel: This early-20th-century market sparkles after a recent renovation and bustles with a trendy food circus of eateries (daily 10:00-24:00). While it’s expensive and touristy, it’s also fun and accessible. You can stroll while you munch, hang out at bars, or take a break at one of the market’s food-court-style tables. For tips on grazing here, see here.
$$ La Mallorquina (“The Girl from Mallorca”), on the downhill end of Puerta del Sol, is a venerable pastry shop serving the masses at the bar (€1.30 Napolitana pastries, €1 rosquillas—doughnuts) and takeout on the ground floor. But upstairs is a refined little 19th-century café—popular for generations. It offers an accessible menu and a relative oasis of quiet (daily 9:00-21:00, closed mid-July-Aug).
$$ Restaurante Puerto Rico, a simple, no-nonsense place, serves good meals for great prices to smart Madrileños in a long, congested hall (long hours daily, Chinchilla 2, between Puerta del Sol and Gran Vía, tel. 915-219-834).
Restaurante-Cafeteria Europa is a fun, high-energy scene with a mile-long bar, old-school waiters, local cuisine, and a fine €11 fixed-price lunch special (inside only). The menu lists three price levels: $ bar (inexpensive), $$$ table (generally pricey), or $$$$ terrace (sky-high but with good people-watching). Your best value is to stick to the lunch menu if you’re sitting inside, or order off the plastic barra menu if you sit at the bar—the ham-and-egg toast or the homemade churros make a nice breakfast (daily 7:00-24:00, next to Hotel Europa, 50 yards off Puerta del Sol at Calle del Carmen 4, tel. 915-212-900).
$$$ Chiringuito de El Señor Martín serves fresh seafood from the fishmonger at the Mercado de San Miguel. The chefs are fishermen who cook a changing menu based on the seasonal catches. Don’t be surprised to get good fish in this landlocked city—Madrid has an excellent selection flown in daily (daily 13:00-23:30, Calle Mayor 31, tel. 917-957-170).
$$$ El Corte Inglés’ “Gourmet Experience,” a ninth-floor cafeteria, houses a specialty grocery mart and 10 different minirestaurants with cuisines ranging from Mexican to Chinese. This snazzy and wildly popular complex is fresh, modern, and not particularly cheap. Take a seat at any of the indoor tables, or out on the open terrace (daily 10:00-24:00, at the top of Calle del Carmen half a block below Plaza del Callao). While here, enjoy great views of Gran Vía and Plaza de España.
Casa Labra Taberna Restaurante is famous as the birthplace of the Spanish Socialist Party in 1879...and as a spot for great cod. Their tasty little tajada de bacalao dishes put them on the map. Packed with Madrileños, it manages to be both dainty and rustic. It’s a wonderful scene with three distinct sections: the stand-up $ bar (line up for cod and croquettes, power up to the bar for drinks); a peaceful little $ sit-down area in back (a little more expensive but still cheap), and a $$$ fancy restaurant. Consider the outdoor tables self-serve. The waiters are fun to joke around with (daily 11:00-15:30 & 18:00-23:00, a block off Puerta del Sol at Calle Tetuán 12, tel. 915-310-081).
Vegetarian: $$ Artemisia is a hit with vegetarians and vegans who like good, healthy food without the typical hippie ambience that comes with most veggie places (weekday lunch specials, open daily 13:30-16:00 & 20:30-23:30, north of Puerta del Sol at Tres Cruces 4, a few steps off Plaza del Carmen, tel. 915-218-721).
Chueca, just a short walk north of Gran Vía, in the past decade has gone from a sleazy no-go zone to a trendy and inviting neighborhood. Riding the Metro to the Chueca stop, you’ll emerge right on Plaza de Chueca. The square feels like today’s Madrid...without the tourism. A handful of places offer relaxing tables on the square, the neighborhood’s San Antón market hall (Mercado de San Antón, just a block away) is now a fun food circus, and nearby streets hold plenty of hardworking, creative new eateries. Here are some good options:
$$ Cafetería Verdoy, facing the Metro station right on Plaza de Chueca, is a basic diner with friendly service and an easy, cheap menu, dish-of-the-day, and great tables right on the square (closed Sun).
$$ Antigua Casa Angel Sierra Vermouth Bar offers a thirst-quenching old-time ambience that almost takes you back to 1917, when it opened. Belly up to the bar in its tight front room facing the square or, for more space, enter (through a side entrance) a back room filled with giant barrels of vermouth and more spacious tables for dining (on Plaza de Chueca, Calle Gravina 11, tel. 915-310-126).
$$ Mercado de San Antón, with three bustling floors of edible temptations, is flat-out fun for anyone who likes food (daily 10:00-late). The ground floor remains a produce and fish market. The first floor is a circle of tempting tapas joints—ranging from Canary Islands to Japanese to healthy veggie—with shared tables looking down on the market action and sample dishes on display for easy ordering. The top floor is a more formal restaurant—$$$ La Cocina de San Antón (“Kitchen of San Antón”). It’s part of a modern chain whose forte is ham, and it has a nice rooftop terrace (Augusto Figueroa 24, tel. 913-300-294).
$$ Vinoteca Vides is passionately run by Vicente, who offers a simple one-page list of small plates (finger food, ham, cheese) to go with a long list of quality wines sold by the €3-or-so glass (closed Mon, Calle Libertad 12, tel. 915-318-444). If you’re looking for a convivial bar, this is a great bet. And there are many enticing alternatives nearby.
$$$ Angelita Wine Bar is a dressy little restaurant with spacious seating, a short food menu designed to go with the wines, and a long list of wines by the glass. An elegant place for a fine meal, you’ll be surrounded by a smart local crowd (Mon-Sat 13:30-17:00 & 20:30-24:00, closed Sun, 100 yards from Gran Vía Metro station at Calle de la Reina 4, tel. 915-216-678).
$$ Café de Oriente is recommended mostly for its location, facing the Royal Palace, next to the National Theater and overlooking Plaza de Oriente. It’s a venerable and elegant opera-type café with fine tables on the square. Stick to the good and reasonable lunch special—three courses for €15—as the restaurant and terrace menus are pricey (Plaza de Oriente 2, tel. 915-413-974, www.cafedeoriente.es, more interesting menu after 20:00).
Sandwich Joints: For an easy, light, and cheap meal, look for the Spanish answers to Subway: $ Rodilla and $ Pans & Company (open daily 9:00-23:00). You’ll see them on Puerta del Sol and nearly every square, offering all the ambience of a McDonald’s and a good selection of fresh sandwiches and prepackaged salads.
Picnic: The department store El Corte Inglés has well-stocked meat-and-cheese counters in Building 2’s immense subterranean supermarket (Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 11:00-21:00, a block off Puerta del Sol at Calle Preciados 3).
Those not watching their cholesterol will want to try the deep-fried doughy treats called churros (or the thicker porras), best enjoyed by dipping them in pudding-like hot chocolate. Though many chocolaterías offer the dunkable fritters, churros are most delicious when consumed fresh out of the greasy cauldron at a place that actually fries them. Two Madrid favorites are near Puerta del Sol.
Chocolatería San Ginés is a classy institution, beloved for a century by Madrileños for its churros con chocolate. While busy all day, it’s packed after midnight; the popular dance club Joy Eslava is next door (open 24 hours; from Puerta del Sol, take Calle del Arenal 2 blocks west, turn left on bookstore-lined Pasadizo de San Ginés, and you’ll see the café at #5; tel. 913-656-546).
Chocolaterías Valor, a modern chain and Spanish chocolate maker, does churros with pride and gusto. A few minutes’ walk from nearly all my hotel recommendations, it’s a fine place for breakfast. With a website like www.amigosdelchocolate.com, you know where their heart is (daily 8:00-22:30, Fri-Sat until 24:00, a half-block below Plaza del Callao and Gran Vía at Postigo de San Martín 7, tel. 915-229-288). You can also buy powdered Valor chocolate at supermarkets (like the one at El Corte Inglés) to make the drink at home.
Madrid has two main train stations: Chamartín and Atocha. Both stations offer long-distance trains (largo recorridos) as well as smaller local trains (regionales and cercanías) to nearby destinations. You can buy tickets at the stations, at travel agencies, or online. (For details, see the Practicalities chapter.) While travel agencies add a small fee, they can be a good place to buy tickets, especially during the high season or holidays, when the station’s ticket counters have long lines. Convenient locations include the El Corte Inglés travel agency at Atocha (Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-18:00, on ground floor of AVE side at the far end) and the El Corte Inglés department store (see “Travel Agencies” on here).
The TI is near track 20. The impressively large information, tickets, and customer-service office is at track 11. You can relax in the Sala VIP Club if you have a first-class rail pass and first-class seat or sleeper reservations (between tracks 13 and 14, cooler of free drinks). Baggage storage (consigna) is across the street, opposite track 17. The station’s Metro stop is also called Chamartín (not “Pinar de Chamartín”). Train connections from here are listed later.
The station is split in two: an AVE side (mostly long-distance trains) and a cercanías side (mostly local trains to the suburbs—known as cercanías—and the Metro for connecting into downtown). These two parts are connected by a corridor of shops. Each side has separate schedules and customer-service offices. The TI, which is on the AVE arrivals side, offers tourist info, but no train info (Mon-Sat 8:00-20:00, Sun 9:00-14:00, tel. 915-284-630). To get to Atocha, use the “Atocha RENFE” Metro stop (not “Atocha”).
Ticket Offices: The cercanías side has two offices—a small one for local trains and a big one for major trains (such as AVE). The AVE side has a pleasant, airy office that sells tickets for AVE and other long-distance trains (two lines: “Tickets in Advance” or “Selling Out Today”/“Departures Today”). A ticket counter will sometimes open up to sell tickets for trains departing soon—if you need to make a last-minute purchase, look for your destination and departure time, and get in line at that counter. If the line at one office is long, check the other offices. To secure your place in line, grab a number from a machine, usually located in the middle of the office by a sign with an image of a ticket. Ticket machines outside and around the office require a chip-and-PIN credit card.
AVE Side: Located in the towering old-station building, this half of the station boasts a lush, tropical garden filling its grand hall. It has the AVE trains, other fast trains (Grandes Líneas), a pharmacy (daily 8:00-22:00, facing garden), a handful of cafés and restaurants, and a pay WC. Baggage storage (consigna) is at the far end of the tropical garden (daily 6:00-22:20). In the departure lounge on the upper floor, TV monitors announce track numbers. (A few trains, such as those for Toledo, Alicante, and Valencia, depart from the lower floor.) For information, try the Información counter (daily 6:30-22:30), next to Centro Servicios AVE (which handles only AVE changes and problems). The Atención al Cliente office deals with problems on Grandes Líneas (daily 6:30-23:30). Also on the AVE side is the Club AVE/Sala VIP, a lounge reserved solely for AVE business-class travelers and for first-class ticket-holders or Eurailers with a first-class reservation (upstairs, past the security check on right; free drinks, newspapers, showers, and info service).
Cercanías Side: This is where you’ll find the local cercanías trains, regionales trains, some eastbound faster trains, and the “Atocha RENFE” Metro stop. The Atención al Cliente office in the cercanías section has information only on trains to destinations near Madrid. Most AVE trains will pull in on this side—clearly marked signs lead you to a direct route to the cercanías train that goes to the airport, or to the Metro, taxi stand, or back to the AVE side.
Terrorism Memorial: The terrorist bombings of March 11, 2004, took place in Atocha and on local lines going into and out of the station. Security is understandably tight here. A moving memorial is in the cercanías part of the station near the Atocha RENFE Metro stop. Walk inside and under the cylinder to read the thousands of condolence messages in many languages (sporadic closings, but generally daily 11:00-14:00 & 17:00-19:00). The 36-foot-tall cylindrical glass memorial towers are visible from outside on the street.
Spain’s bullet train opens up good itinerary options. You can get from Madrid’s Atocha station to Barcelona nonstop in 2.5 hours (at nearly 200 mph), with trains running almost hourly. The AVE train is faster and easier than flying, but not necessarily cheaper. Second-class tickets are about €110-130 one-way; first-class tickets are €180. Advance purchase and online discounts are available through the national rail company (RENFE), but sell out quickly. Save by not traveling on holidays. Your ticket includes one commuter-train transfer in Madrid or Barcelona.
The AVE is also handy for visiting Sevilla (and, on the way, Córdoba). Consider this exciting day trip: 7:00-depart Madrid, 8:45-12:40-in Córdoba, 13:30-20:45-in Sevilla, 23:15-back in Madrid.
Other AVE destinations include Toledo, Segovia, Valencia, Alicante, and Malaga. Prices vary with times, class, and date of purchase—they’re usually cheapest up to two months ahead. Eurail Pass holders pay a seat reservation fee (for example, Madrid to Sevilla is €13 second-class, but only at RENFE ticket windows—discount not available at ticket machines). Reserve each AVE segment ahead (tel. 902-320-320 for Atocha AVE info). For the latest, pick up the AVE brochure at the station, or check www.renfe.com.
Below I’ve listed both non-AVE and (where available) AVE trains. General train info: Tel. 902-320-320; international journeys: Tel. 902-243-402; www.renfe.com.
From Madrid by Train to: Toledo (AVE or cheaper Avant: nearly hourly, 30 minutes, from Atocha), El Escorial (cercanías, 2/hour, from Atocha and Chamartín, but bus is better—see here), Segovia (AVE, Alvia, Avant: 8-10/day, 30 minutes plus 20-minute shuttle bus into Segovia center, from Chamartín, take train going toward Valladolid), Ávila (nearly hourly until 22:30, 1.5-2 hours, more frequent departures from Chamartín than Atocha), Salamanca (7/day, 1.5-3 hours, from Chamartín), Valencia (AVE: nearly hourly, 2 hours, from Atocha; in Valencia, AVE passengers arrive at Joaquín Sorolla station), Santiago de Compostela (5/day, 5-5.5 hours, longer trips transfer in Ourense), Barcelona (AVE: at least hourly, 2.5-3 hours from Atocha), San Sebastián (7/day, 5.5-7.5 hours, from Chamartín), Bilbao (2-4/day, 5-7 hours, some transfer in Zaragoza, from Chamartín), Pamplona (6/day direct, 3.5 hours, more with transfer in Zaragoza, from Atocha), Burgos (6/day, 2.5-4.5 hours, from Chamartín), León (8/day, 2.5-5 hours, from Chamartín), Granada (2/day on Altaria, 4.5 hours; also 2/day with transfer to AVE in Málaga, 4 hours), Sevilla (AVE: hourly, 2.5 hours, departures from 16:00-19:00 can sell out far in advance, from Atocha), Córdoba (AVE: almost hourly, 2 hours; Altaria trains: 4/day, 2 hours; all from Atocha), Málaga (AVE: 9/day, 2.5-4 hours, from Atocha), Algeciras (4/day, half with transfer in Antequera, 5.5-6 hours, from Atocha), Lisbon, Portugal (1/night, 10.5 hours, from Chamartín), Marseille, France (1/day direct, 8 hours, from Atocha; also stops at Montpellier, Nîmes, Avignon, and Aix-en-Provence).
Madrid has several major bus stations with good Metro connections. There are also several routes serving Barajas Airport’s Terminal 4. Multiple bus companies operate from these stations, including Alsa (tel. 902-422-242, www.alsa.es), Avanza and Auto-Res (tel. 902-020-052, www.avanzabus.com), and La Sepulvedana (tel. 901-119-699, www.lasepulvedana.es). If you take a taxi from any bus station, you’ll be charged a legitimate €3 supplement (not levied for trips to the station).
Plaza Elíptica Station: Served by Alsa. Buses to Toledo leave from here (2/hour, 1-1.5 hours, directo faster than ruta, Metro: Plaza Elíptica).
Estación Sur de Autobuses (South Station): Served by Alsa, Socibus, and Avanza. From here, buses go to Ávila (9/day, 6/day on weekends, 1.5 hours, Avanza), Burgos (2/day, 3.5 hours, Alsa), Salamanca (hourly express, 2.5-3 hours, Avanza), León (10/day, 4 hours, Alsa), Santiago de Compostela (4/day, 9 hours, includes 1 night bus, Alsa), Granada (nearly hourly, 5-6 hours, Alsa), and Lisbon (2/day, 9 hours, Alsa). The station sits squarely on top of the Méndez Álvaro Metro (has TI, tel. 914-684-200, www.estacionautobusesmadrid.com).
Moncloa Station: This station, in the Moncloa Metro station, serves Leon (6/day, 3.5-4.5 hours, Alsa), Santiago de Compostela (3/day, 9 hours, Alsa), El Escorial (4/hour, fewer on weekends, 1 hour; for details, see here), and Segovia (about 2/hour). To reach the Valley of the Fallen, it’s best to connect via El Escorial (see here for details).
Avenida de América Station: Served by Alsa. Located at the Avenida de América Metro, buses go to Lisbon (2/day, night bus 8.5 hours), Burgos (hourly, 3 hours), Granada (3/day, 6 hours), and Pamplona (nearly hourly, 6 hours).
Ten miles east of downtown, Madrid’s modern airport has four terminals. Terminals 1, 2, and 3 are connected by long indoor walkways (about an 8-minute walk apart) and serve airlines including Delta, United, US Airways, Lufthansa, and Air Canada. The newer Terminal 4 serves airlines including Iberia, Vueling, Ryanair, British, and American, and also has a separate satellite terminal called T4S. To transfer between Terminals 1-3 and Terminal 4, you can take a 10-minute shuttle bus (free, leaves every 10 minutes from departures level), or take the Metro (stops at Terminals 2 and 4). Make sure to allow enough time if you need to travel between terminals (and then for the long walk within Terminal 4 to the gates). For more information about navigating this massive airport, go to www.aena-aeropuertos.es (airport code: MAD).
International flights typically use Terminals 1 and 4. At the Terminal 1 arrivals area, you’ll find a helpful, though privately run, English-speaking Turismo Madrid TI (marked Oficina de Información Turística, Mon-Sat 8:00-20:00, Sun 9:00-14:00, tel. 913-058-656), ATMs, a flight info office (marked simply Information in airport lobby, open daily 24 hours, tel. 902-353-570), a post-office window, a pharmacy, lots of phones (buy a phone card from the nearby machine), a few scattered Internet terminals (small fee), eateries, a RENFE office (where you can get train info and buy long-distance train tickets, long hours daily, tel. 902-320-320), and on-the-spot car-rental agencies. The super-modern Terminal 4 offers essentially the same services. Luggage storage (consigna) is in Terminal 2, near the Metro exit. Some buses leave from the airport to far-flung destinations, such as Pamplona (see www.alsa.es; buy ticket online or from the driver).
Consider flying between Madrid and other cities in Spain (see “Flights” in the Practicalities chapter). Domestic airline Vueling (www.vueling.com) is popular for its discounts (e.g., Madrid-Barcelona flight as cheap as €30 if booked in advance).
By Public Bus: The yellow Exprés Aeropuerto runs between the airport (all terminals) and Atocha station (€5, pay driver in cash, departing from arrivals level every 15-20 minutes, ride takes about 40 minutes, runs 24 hours a day; from 23:30-6:00, the bus only goes to Plaza de Cibeles, not all the way to Atocha). From Atocha, you can take a taxi or the Metro to your hotel. The bus back to the airport leaves Atocha from near the taxi stand on the cercanías side (from 23:30-6:00, it departs downtown from Plaza de Cibeles).
Bus #200 (from all terminals) is less handy than the express bus because it leaves you farther from downtown (at the Metro stop at Avenida de América, northeast of the historical center). This bus departs from the arrivals level about every 10 minutes and takes about 20 minutes to reach Avenida de América (runs 6:00-24:00, buy €1.50 ticket from driver; or get a shareable 10-ride Metrobus ticket at a tobacco shop, Metro station, or newsstand).
By Cercanías Train: From Terminal 4, passengers can ride a cercanías train to either of Madrid’s stations (€2.60, 2/hour, 25 minutes to Atocha, 12 minutes to Chamartín). Those returning to Madrid’s airport by AVE train from elsewhere in Spain can transfer for free to the cercanías at Atocha: Scan your AVE ticket at the cercanías ticket machine to receive a ticket for the airport train. Be sure to board a train labeled T-4.
The bus is still a more convenient choice for arriving or departing from the other airport terminals.
By Metro: Considering the ease of riding the Exprés Aeropuerto bus in from the airport, I wouldn’t recommend taking the Metro. The subway involves two transfers to reach the city; it’s not difficult, but usually involves climbing some stairs (€4.50-6; or add a €3 supplement to your 10-ride Metrobus ticket).
By Minibus Shuttle: The AeroCity shuttle bus provides door-to-door transport in a seven-seat minibus with up to three hotel stops en route. It’s promoted by hotels, but if you want door-to-door service, simply taking a taxi generally offers a better value (www.aerocity.com).
By Taxi: With cheap and easy alternatives available, there’s not much reason to take a taxi unless you have lots of luggage or just want to go straight to your hotel. If you do take a taxi between the airport and downtown, the flat rate is €30. There is no charge for luggage. Plan on getting stalled in traffic.
Avoid driving in Madrid. If you’re planning to rent a car, do it when you depart the city.
Renting a Car: It’s cheapest to make car-rental arrangements before you leave home. In Madrid, consider Europcar (central reservations tel. 902-105-030, San Leonardo 8 office tel. 915-418-892, Atocha tel. 902-105-055, Chamartín tel. 912-035-070, airport tel. 902-105-055), Hertz (central reservations tel. 902-402-405, Plaza de España 18 tel. 915-425-805, Atocha tel. 902-023-932, airport tel. 902-305-230), Avis (central reservations tel. 933-443-700, Gran Vía 60 tel. 915-484-204, Chamartín tel. 902-090-343, Atocha tel. 902-110-291, airport tel. 902-200-162), and Enterprise Atesa (central reservations tel. 902-100-101). Ask about delivery to your hotel. At the airport, most rental cars are returned at Terminal 1. For more on renting a car and driving in Spain, see here of the Practicalities chapter.
Route Tips for Drivers: To leave Madrid from Gran Vía, simply follow signs for A-6 (direction Villalba or A Coruña) for Segovia, El Escorial, or the Valley of the Fallen (see next chapter for details). The Madrid-Toledo toll road costs €8.70 (see details on here).