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PINK RHUBARB AND ORANGE COMPOTE

Young, slender, pink rhubarb gives this simple dessert a rosy color and fresh flavor. Being more tender than the seasonal, thicker-stemmed rhubarb, it just needs brief simmering.

Serves 4

2 large oranges (preferably unwaxed)

14 cup (60 g) granulated sugar

4 thin slices peeled, fresh ginger

1 lb 9 oz (700 g) pink rhubarb, sliced into pieces 212in (6cm) long

2 tbsp red currant jelly

plain yogurt or crème fraîche, to serve

1. Peel 3 strips of rind from one of the oranges using a vegetable peeler and set aside, then squeeze the juice from the fruit. You should have about 5–6 tablespoons of juice. Pour the squeezed juice into a sauté pan or large frying pan, add in the sugar, and stir over medium–low heat until it has dissolved. Add the ginger slices and reserved orange rind.

2. Add the rhubarb to the pan and simmer for 2 minutes. Once the undersides start to soften, gently turn the rhubarb, then cover and simmer for another 5 minutes or until almost tender but still holding its shape, carefully pressing it down into the liquid. Remove it from the heat and let it sit in the liquid for 15 minutes, with the lid on. (See Gently cook the rhubarb, steps 1 and 2.) Discard the ginger and orange rind.

3. Peel the rind and white pith from the remaining orange using a small, sharp knife, then cut out the segments, reserving any juice. Transfer the rhubarb using a slotted spoon to a wide, shallow bowl. Add the orange segments.

4. Pour any reserved orange juice into the pan, then add the red currant jelly and stir over medium heat until it has melted. Increase the heat to medium–high and let the liquid bubble quite rapidly for 2–3 minutes. (See Gently cook the rhubarb, step 3.) Cool for 10 minutes, then pour over the fruit and let cool completely. Serve with yogurt or crème fraîche.

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PINK RHUBARB AND ORANGE COMPOTE

KEYS TO PERFECTION

Gently cook the rhubarb

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1 Rhubarb can quickly collapse and lose its shape when cooking. Use a wide-based pan, so you can spread out the pieces, and don’t stir, or they will break up; instead, turn them carefully using a slotted spoon.

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2 Test the rhubarb with the tip of a knife. As soon as it’s almost (but not quite) tender, remove it from the heat and let it sit for 15 minutes, covered. It will finish cooking in the hot liquid while retaining its shape.

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3 Remove the rhubarb and reduce the liquid in the pan to create a light, shiny syrup. If you were to cook the rhubarb and the syrup together at this stage, the rhubarb would overcook and turn mushy.