I.M. Pei’s iconic glass pyramid dominates the courtyard of the Musée du Louvre.
Waiting for the Eiffel Tower to light up after dark, strolling along the Seine on a warm summer night—these could become your favorite moments in the world, not just in Paris. This is an electric city—a “moveable feast” (as Ernest Hemingway so aptly called it). The list of wonderful experiences to be had here is endless. Here are 13 of my favorites.
❶ Walking through the courtyard of the Musée du Louvre early in the morning, hurrying to be one of the first in line, and catching the sun glinting off the glass pyramids in the courtyard—it only heightens the excitement of seeing the masterpieces inside. See p 30.
❷ Taking in a music concert at the new Philharmonie de Paris. The main auditorium is wholly futuristic, like the inside of a wooden space ship—all sinuous lines and floating “clouds” (sound-reflecting surfaces designed to perfectly disperse the sound waves). The eclectic program is fab too, covering everything from classic symphonic works to fusion jazz. See p 133.
❸ Ambling along the Seine toward the islands, watching the tour boats cruise slowly by, the lights from their windows reflecting on the river. On summer nights, the riverside is packed, even after 10pm; sometimes it seems as if everybody in Paris is here. Bands play, lovers kiss, children frolic, everybody smiles—this is how life should be all the time.
You’ll see everything from art stalls to street performers during a stroll along the Seine.
❹ Sitting in the Musée d’Orsay in the center sculpture court, down below the entrance, looking up at the huge, ornate clock on the wall far above. Through the frosted glass around it, you can see the shadows of people passing by on invisible walkways. The sheer scale is astounding; the look is pure drama. And all around you, the works of history’s most talented sculptors lounge, leap, and laugh silently. See p 7.
❺ Strolling along the Canal St-Martin, passing delicate iron bridges, locks, and the occasional fisherman. You could spend the better part of a day losing yourself in the bohemian boutiques, stopping at a cafe, and then continuing along to the Parc de la Villette for a picnic in the park or a trip around the Cité des Sciences. See p 68.
The light-filled sculpture hall in the Musée d’Orsay.
❻ Sipping tea in the Musée de la Vie Romantique’s summer rose garden. The pink, ivy-clad house once frequented by George Sand and Frédéric Chopin feels like Paris’s best-kept secret. Wind down in the garden over a Darjeeling tea and a tarte du jour, with just the buzzing of bees and the clinking of tea cups for company. See p 38.
❼ Getting lost in the Château de Versailles gardens. This opulent château of the Sun King, Louis XIV, is the glittering highlight of any visit to the Île-de-France. Nothing can beat a day spent ambling through the terraced gardens, admiring the fountains and Marie Antoinette’s hamlet. See p 153, ❷.
❽ Climbing the streets of Montmartre. This hilly, hopelessly romantic neighborhood is my favorite in all of Paris. A sweeping view of the city spreads out before you from every cross street. Every corner reveals another evocative stone staircase too steep to see all the way down, but at the bottom you know you’ll find sweet old buildings painted pale colors and streets of old paving stones. See p 17.
❾ Standing at Trocadéro, watching the Eiffel Tower sparkle at nightfall. It’s the best place in town to take in the tower’s elegant, filigree proportions, and that moment when somebody, somewhere, flicks the button to light it up is matchless. See p 24.
❿ Attending a ballet at the Opéra Garnier. Whether you’re seeing a traditional rendition of Tchaikovsky’s The Nutcracker or a contemporary version of Prokofiev’s Romeo et Juliette, the Charles Garnier–designed grande dame of performance spaces provides a breathtaking backdrop for ballet. Climb the majestic central staircase, order champagne for the entr’acte (intermission), and then sink into your red velvet chair and admire Chagall’s famous ceiling fresco before the lights go down. See p 133.
⓫ Rubbing shoulders with Notre-Dame’s gargoyles. Climb the uneven stone steps to the top of Notre-Dame’s towers, and you’re in the precipitous realm of Quasimodo, where hideous stone sculptures stick out their tongues at the city below. The views from here are mesmerizing, especially on a cloudy day, when the sky looks moody. See p 9, ❼.
⓬ Riding a riverboat down the Seine, where all the buildings are artfully lighted so they seem to glow from within. On warm nights, take an open-top boat and feel as if you can reach up and touch the damp, stone bridges as you pass beneath them. See p 11.
⓭ Marveling at the inventions in the Musée des Arts et Métiers. This museum is easy to miss, yet it contains some of the world’s greatest inventions: Blaise Pascal’s 17th-century calculator, the Blériot 11 (the first plane to cross the English Channel), steam-powered carriages, and Henry Ford’s Model T car and automated toys. It’s a must-see for science fans big and small. See p 39, ❻. 
The extravagance of the gardens at Versailles rivals that of the palace itself.
