Lines for admission to the Louvre can be long. Save time by buying tickets online in advance.
This tour covers a lot of ground, so be prepared for lots of walking and, when your feet ache, metro-hopping. For your efforts, you’ll see the city’s most glorious edifices in one giant sweep. If you get an early start and keep moving, you should be able to make it to the Eiffel Tower (the last stop) by sunset. START: Métro to Invalides.
❶ ★★★ Hôtel des Invalides/Napoleon’s Tomb. The imposing Les Invalides complex, with its symmetrical corridors and beautiful Dôme church (Libéral Bruand and Jules Hardouin-Mansart’s golden-domed masterpiece), was built in 1670 by Louis XIV as a military hospital and a showpiece of the Sun King’s military power. Approach it from the cherub-clad pont Alexandre III to see it as intended, from the end of its perfectly balanced gardens, lined with canons. Inside, along with accouterments of Napoleon’s life and death, is the Musée de l’Armée, with enough historic weaponry (vicious battle-axes, clumsy blunderbusses) to mount another revolution. Among the collection’s gems are a German Enigma machine, used by Hitler’s army to encrypt messages, and suits of armor worn by the kings and dignitaries of France, including one worn by Louis XIV and François I’s exquisite “armor suit of the lion,” inspired by Classical war heroes. The complex also contains the Charles de Gaulle Monument, a high-tech audiovisual attraction covering the whole of de Gaulle’s life, particularly his role in World War II; the Musée des Plans Reliefs, the collection of scale-model cities Vauban, Louis XIV’s military engineer, used for planning military attacks; and of course, Napoleon’s beautiful, over-the-top tomb, set inside the Dôme church, featuring giant statues that represent his victories. You can also see his death mask and an oil painting by Paul Delaroche, painted at the time of Napoleon’s first banishment in 1814. 
1 hr. 129 rue de Grenelle, 7th. ☎ 01-42-44-38-77. www.invalides.org. Admission 9.50€ ages 26 & over, 7.50€ ages 18–25, free for children 17 & under & visitors 25 & under from E.U. countries. Nov–Mar daily 10am–5pm; Apr–Oct daily 10am–6pm. Oct–June closed 1st Mon of the month. Charles de Gaulle Monument closed Mon. Métro: Invalides, Varenne or La Tour Maubourg; RER C: Invalides.
Napoleon’s tomb at Hôtel des Invalides.
❷ ★★★ Musée du Louvre. The home of da Vinci’s Mona Lisa is one of the world’s largest and best museums, set in Paris’s former royal palace. It’s worth spending a day here (see “Exploring the Louvre,” p 30), but for this tour, admire it from the outside. 20 min.
★ Le Zimmer. Jules Verne, Marcel Proust, and Igor Stravinski once frequented this storied, 19th-century brasserie. During WWII, the “Honneur de la Police” (underground police Résistance) secretly occupied its cellars. Today, it’s an atmospheric spot–all mirrors and red velvet–for lunch with terrace views onto your next stop, the Conciergerie. The 20€ menu is good value. 1 place du Châtelet, 1st. ☎ 01-42-36-74-03, www.lezimmer.com. Métro: Châtelet. $$.
❸ ★★★ Palais de Justice, Conciergerie & Sainte-Chapelle. Take the Pont au Change to the Île de la Cité and walk down Boulevard du Palais. Immediately on your right is the complex made up of the Conciergerie (formerly a prison, now a museum), the Palais de Justice (law courts, not open to visitors), and the exquisite Sainte-Chapelle church. Once a palace, the Conciergerie was converted to a prison during the Revolution and became a symbol of terror—Paris’s answer to the Tower of London. Carts once frequently pulled up to the Conciergerie to haul off fresh victims for the guillotine. Among the few imprisoned here who lived to tell the tale was American political theorist and writer Thomas Paine. Inside, you can learn about the bloody history of the Conciergerie and visit some of the old prison cells, including a re-creation of Marie Antoinette’s. The Palais de Justice is still the center of the French judicial system and thus doesn’t accept tourists, but you can peek through its grand, gated entrance as you make your way to the Sainte-Chapelle—stunning in afternoon light. It was built in the 13th century to hold a crown of thorns that King Louis IX believed Christ wore during his crucifixion (the crown is now in Notre-Dame). The chapel’s stained-glass windows comprise more than 1,000 scenes depicting the Christian story from the Garden of Eden through to the Apocalypse, shown on the great Rose Window. (Read them from bottom to top and from left to right.) The stained glass of Sainte-Chapelle is magnificent in daylight, glowing with reds that have inspired the saying “wine the color of Sainte-Chapelle’s windows.” 1 hr. 2–6 bd. du Palais, 1st. ☎ 01-53-40-60-80. www.conciergerie.monuments-nationaux.fr. Conciergerie 8.50€ ages 26 & over, 6.50€ ages 18–25, free for ages 17 & under & visitors 26 & under from E.U. countries; Sainte-Chapelle 8.50€ ages 26 & over, 5.50€ ages 18–25, free for children 17 & under & visitors 26 & under from E.U. countries. Combined ticket Conciergerie & Sainte-Chapelle 14€; concessions 11€ or free entry, as above. Daily 9:30am–6pm (Sainte-Chapelle until 9pm on Wed mid-May to mid-Sept). Métro: Cité or Châtelet (exit place du Châtelet).
❺ ★★★ Cathédrale Notre-Dame. For a good view of the buttresses, take the short bridge—pont de l’Archevêché—just behind the cathedral to Île Saint-Louis. 1 hr. See p 9, ❼.
❻ ★★★ Arc de Triomphe. The world’s largest triumphal arch was commissioned by Napoleon in 1806 to commemorate the victories of his Grande Armée. The monument is engraved with the names of hundreds of generals (those underlined died in battle) who commanded French troops in Napoleonic victories. The arch was finished in 1836, after Napoleon’s death. His remains, brought from St. Helena in 1840, passed under it on the journey to his final resting place at the Hôtel des Invalides. These days, the arch is the focal point of state funerals and the site of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, in whose honor an eternal flame burns. It’s also a huge traffic circle, representing certain death to pedestrians, so you reach the arch via an underground passage (well-signposted). The constant roar of traffic can ruin the mood, but the view from the top (accessible via elevator or stairs) makes enduring the din worthwhile. The last leg of your tour is a 20-minute walk away. You can also hop back on the Métro to Trocadéro or flag down a taxi on the Champs Elysées. 45 min. The Arc de Triomphe is open late at night, so if you prefer a nighttime view, you can put this off until after dinner. Place Charles de Gaulle–Etoile, 8th. ☎ 01-55-37-73-77. www.arc-de-triomphe.monuments-nationaux.fr. Admission 9.50€ ages 26 & over, 7.50€ ages 18–25, free for children 17 & under & visitors 25 & under from E.U. countries. Apr–Sept daily 10am–11pm; Oct–Mar daily 10am–10:30pm. Métro/RER: Charles de Gaulle–Etoile.
❼ ★★★ Tour Eiffel. At last. It’s the Eiffel Tower to English speakers and the Tour Eiffel to the French-speaking world, but whatever you call it, it is synonymous with Paris. The tower was meant to be temporary, built by Gustave-Alexandre Eiffel (who also created the framework for the Statue of Liberty) in 1889 for the Universal Exhibition. It weighs 7,000 tons but exerts about the same pressure on the ground as an average-size person sitting in a chair. Praised by some and denounced by others, the tower created as much controversy in the 1880s as I.M. Pei’s glass pyramid at the Louvre did in the 1980s. The tower, including its antenna, is 324m (1,062 ft.) high, and from the top you can see for 65km (40 miles). But the view of the tower is just as important as the view from it. If you go to Trocadéro on the Métro and then walk from the Palais de Chaillot gardens across the Seine, you’ll get the best view (not to mention photo opportunities). I always come right at sunset or just after dark when the tower’s 20,000 bulbs sparkle for 5 minutes every hour on the hour from nightfall to 1am. Inside the tower’s lacy ironwork are restaurants, bars, and historic memorabilia. Take your time, take selfies over the new transparent floor on the 1st level, or even book a table at Alain Ducasse’s pricey restaurant Le Jules Verne (reserve 3 months in advance for an evening meal; ☎ 01-45-55-61-44, www.lejulesverne-paris.com), and enjoy sweeping views from the second level as you dine. If your pockets aren’t that deep, the brasserie 58 Tour Eiffel, on the first floor, is a panoramic compromise. Or opt for a glass of bubbly from the tiny top floor champagne bar—no more than a barman behind a hatch. Tip: To save time in line, buy your tickets online in advance or book a guided tour. The tower’s smartphone app is also worth downloading. 2 hr. Champ de Mars, 7th. ☎ 01-44-11-23-23. www.tour-eiffel.fr. Admission via lift to 1st or 2nd floor 11€ adults, 8.50€ ages 12–24, 4€ ages 4–11; lift to top floor 17€ adults, 15€ ages 12–24, 10€ ages 4–11; stairs to 1st and 2nd floors 7€ adults, 5€ ages 12–24, 3€ ages 4–11, free for children 3 & under. Open by lift mid-Sept to early June daily 9:30am–11:45pm (last lift to top 10:30pm); mid-June to early Sept daily 9am–12:45am (last lift to top 11pm). By stairs mid-Sept to early-June daily 9:30am–6:30pm (last entry 6pm); mid-June to early-Sept daily 9am–12:45am (last entry midnight). Métro: Trocadéro, Ecole Militaire, or Bir-Hakeim. RER: Champs-de-Mars-Tour-Eiffel.
Let’s face it: Most kid-approved attractions are outdoors, which means you’re dangerously reliant on good weather. But this tour has been designed for you to dip into at will, to keep the brood smiling come rain or shine. Look for the “kids” icon in chapter 6 to find family-friendly dining options around the city. And if the best-laid plans fail, you can always rush them off for a day at Disneyland Paris (p 156). START: Métro to Odéon or RER to Luxembourg.
❶ Jardins du Luxembourg. Kids can run amok in these elegant gardens, which are done in classic French style, with urns and statuary and trees planted in patterns. Statues peek out everywhere as children sail toy boats on the ponds, ride the ponies, or catch a puppet show, if you get lucky with timing. Kids can also watch the locals play boules (lawn bowling), but are unlikely to be invited to join in. Don’t miss the swings in the play area, the old-fashioned merry-go-round, and (if you’re with toddlers) the sandpits. 1 hr. Métro: Odéon. RER: Luxembourg.
Toy boats in the Jardins du Luxembourg.
❷ Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle & Ménagerie du Jardin des Plantes. The giant whale skeleton that greets you at this natural history museum lets you know right off the bat that the kids are going to be fine here. Beyond those bones in the Galerie de l’Evolution are more skeletons of dinosaurs and stuffed animals, lined-up like a queue for Noah’s Ark, plus adjacent galleries filled with sparkling minerals, and hothouses of rare plants. In the surrounding gardens (the Jardin des Plantes), there’s also a wonderful little zoo with small animals, birds, crocodiles and wild cats. 90 min. 56 rue Cuvier, 5th. ☎ 01-40-79-54-79. www.mnhn.fr. Admission 13€ adults, 9€ ages 3–16, free for children 2 & under (1 full-price ticket gives reduced price access to the Menagerie). Wed–Fri & Mon 9am–5pm, Sat–Sun 9am–6pm. Métro: Jussieu or Gare d’Austerlitz.
❸ ★★★ Parc de la Villette. In the rejuvenated northeast part of town, this retro-futurist, canal-side succession of gardens is a fab place for kids to run around. There’s the Géode IMAX cinema (26 av. Corentin-Cariou, ☎ 01-40-05-79-99; admission 12€ adults, 9€ 25 and under; www.lageode.fr), a wonderful children’s science museum, La Cité des Sciences (30 av. Corentin-Cariou; ☎ 01-40-05-70-00; www.cite-sciences.fr; admission 12€ adults, 10€ ages 7–25, 3€ for children under 6), and the new Philharmonie de Paris (see p 133), a post-modernist philharmonic hall with a music museum displaying over 1,000 instruments, including Chopin’s piano (222 av. Jean Jaurès, 19th; ☎ 01-44-84-44-84, www.philharmoniedeparis.fr; admission 7€ adults, free for visitors 26 and under). 3 hr. 19th. Métro: Porte de la Villette or Porte de Pantin.
❹ Parc Zoologique de Paris. Created as a temporary exhibition for the 1931 Colonial Fair, the Paris Zoo was so successful it became permanent in 1934. Today’s park is a zoo of the future, dedicated to endangered species, and split into five conservation areas, called “biozones,” corresponding to habitats in Patagonia (South America), the Sahel (Africa), Europe, Madagascar, and tropical French Guiana. For something special, treat the kids to breakfast with the giraffes (the largest herd in Europe); it’s a splurge, but it’s magical. (Wed, Sat–Sun before the park opens, ☎ 01-70-94-50-25/resa.pzp@mnhn.fr; 60€ adults, 50€ ages12–25, and 45€ ages 3–11). 2 hr. Intersection of ave Daumesnil and the route du Lac, 12th. www.parczoologiquedeparis.fr. ☎ 08-11-22-41-22. Admission 22€ adults, 17€ children 12–25, 14€ children 3-11, free 2 and under. Mid-Oct to June daily 9:30am–7:30pm (until nightfall Thurs), July to early-Oct daily 10am–5pm. Métro: Porte-Dorée.
❺ Grévin. At this waxworks museum, kids will enjoy wandering among stars—both French (Edith Piaf) and international (soccer star Zlatan Ibrahimovic). Among the 300 wax figures, you’ll find heads of state, artists, writers, and historical figures—at times, the museum even verges on educational. 1 hr. 10 bd. Montmartre, 9th. ☎ 01-47-70-85-05. www.grevin.com. Admission 25€ adults 18 & up, 22€ children 15–17, 18€ children 6–14, free for children 5 & under. Mon–Fri 10am–6:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–7pm. Times may vary seasonally. Closed 1st week in Oct. Métro: Grands-Boulevards.
❻ ★★ Jardin d’Acclimatation. Let the kids while away a sunny afternoon here. You can start with a ride on a narrow-gauge train from porte Maillot to the entrance (daily, roughly every 30 min. from 10am–7pm; until 8pm Fri & Sun). Inside, there’s a house of mirrors, an archery range, miniature golf, a small (and vaguely worrying) zoo, a bowling alley, a puppet theater, playgrounds, kid-size rides, shooting galleries, and food stalls. Kids can ride ponies and paddle about in boats—they can even drive little cars. Bear in mind that it’s only for little ones; teenagers will hate it. 2–3 hr. Bois de Boulogne, 16th. ☎ 01-40-67-90-82. www.jardindacclimatation.fr. Admission 3€ to enter, then 2.90€ for each attraction, or 35€ for 15 rides; free for children 3 and under. June–Sept daily 10am–7pm (until 8pm Sun & bank holidays); Oct–May daily 10am–6pm. Métro: Sablons or Porte Maillot.
Before becoming a museum, the Musée du Louvre was France’s main royal palace. In 1527, François I demolished most of the old castle to build a new one, which makes up part of the building you see today. (François also inadvertently founded part of the museum’s collection—the Mona Lisa and Virgin of the Rocks once hung in his bathroom.) The rest of the building was completed over the centuries, particularly by Henri II and Napoleon whose apartments may be visited on the 1st floor (if you’re from the U.S., remember that the French first floor is your second floor). More recent additions include the glass pyramids designed by I. M. Pei (in 1989) and the Cour Visconti extension, which houses a wonderful Islamic art collection. START: Métro to Palais Royal–Musée du Louvre.
Travel Tip
Laid out end to end, the Louvre would be the size of several football fields, so put aside at least 3 to 4 hours to get a general feel for the place and browse a bit between stops. Pick up a map when you arrive at the museum and use it to find my suggested selection of works—the floor and rooms are marked for each entry.
❶ ★★★ Venus de Milo. Begin your tour in Greek Antiquities, where Venus stands alluringly, her drapery about to fall to the floor. The statue dates to 100 b.c. Myths about her abound—one story maintains that her arms were knocked off when she was hustled onto a French ship. Another claims she was rescued from a pottery kiln. Both are untrue—she was found buried as you see her now, along with part of an arm, a hand holding an apple, and a pair of small columns, one of which fit neatly into her base and bore the inscription alexandros, son of menides, citizen of antioch, made this statue. Sadly, those parts were all lost over time. Ground floor, Room 16.
After all these millennia, Venus de Milo still manages to work the crowd.
❷ ★ Colossal Statue of Ramesses II. On the same level, enter the Ancient Egypt department, where you’ll see this intriguing statue of King Ramesses II sitting in pharaonic splendor (albeit with a damaged nose). Ramesses was the third pharaoh of the 19th dynasty. He reigned for 67 years (1279–1213 a.d.; the second longest reign in Egyptian history), died aged 96, and had over 200 wives and concubines. His names and titles can be seen on his belt buckle, and on the back and sides of his throne. Ground floor, Room 12.
❸ ★★ The Card Sharper. In Room 24, on the second floor, you’ll find Georges de la Tour’s sensational Tricheur (The Card Sharper), painted around 1630. In this gorgeous work, complex relationships play out in shimmering colors. In the center, a courtesan holds her hand out for a glass of wine poured by a servant. Her cheating friend holds cards behind his back as she casts a colluding glance at him. The chubby-cheeked youth in the embroidered shirt is the victim of a plot. A cruel tale, playfully told. 2nd floor, Room 24.
The main entrances to the Musée du Louvre, 1st (☎ 01-40-20-53-17; www.louvre.fr) are at 99 rue de Rivoli, inside the Carousel du Louvre underground shopping mall, and the glass pyramid in the main courtyard. However, the lesser-known Porte des Lions entrance (in the Denon wing; cross place du Carousel and walk toward the Tuileries gardens; it’s on your left) is often quiet (call the day before to check it’s open: ☎ 01-40-20-53-17). Tickets can be bought inside the museum, but expect a long line. To jump the queues, use the automatic ticket machines inside the Carousel du Louvre (just after the entrance at 99 rue de Rivoli) or buy them in advance at a FNAC (p 132) or online (www.ticketweb.com if you’re from the United States or Canada, or www.fnactickets.com or www.ticketmaster.fr if you’re not), then go to the Passage Richelieu entrance, 93 rue de Rivoli.
To beat the crowds, arrive shortly after opening or after 6pm Wednesday or Friday. Admission is 16€, free for children 18 and under and visitors 25 and under from E.U. countries, and free for everyone the first Sunday of the month (Oct–Mar). Hours are Wednesday to Monday 9am to 6pm (until 9:45pm Wed and Fri), Closed Tuesday. Métro: Palais Royal–Musée du Louvre and Louvre Rivoli.
❹ ★★★ The Lacemaker. The Lacemaker (around 1664) is one of Johannes Vermeer’s most famous paintings. It shows a young woman bent over her work, her shape forming a subtle pyramid, and her face, hair, and rich yellow blouse aglow. The book in the foreground is probably the Bible and sets the moral and religious tone of the painting. Vermeer’s unique use of color and light are exemplified in this work, which is usually surrounded by a crowd of admirers. 2nd floor, Room 38.
❺ ★ Winged Victory of Samothrace. Head toward the Denon Wing, where at the top of the Daru stairs stands Nike, the goddess of victory, her wings flung back in takeoff, and the fabric of her skirts swirling around her, as fine as silk. The statue’s origins are uncertain. Most scholars date it to somewhere between 220 and 190 b.c. The statue was discovered on the Greek island of Samothrace in 1863, and its base was discovered in 1879. In 1950, one of the statue’s hands was found; it’s on display in a glass case near the statue. An inscription on the statue’s base includes the word rhodhios (Rhodes) and this, along with the fact that the statue stands on the prow of a ship, has led some scholars to theorize that the piece was commissioned in celebration of a naval victory by Rhodes. Others believe it was an offering made by a Macedonian general after a victory in Cyprus. Regardless of its origins, this glorious work is considered one of the best surviving Greek sculptures from that period. Top of the Daru staircase.
★ Café Mollien. Ready for a break? Café Mollien, by the French painting department, is particularly enjoyable in the summertime, when the outdoor rooftop terrace is open. Choose between sandwiches, salads, and hot dishes such as pasta. The iced coffee with whipped cream is good on a hot day. $.
❼ ★★★ Mona Lisa. This lady’s enigmatic smile and challenging eyes draw scores of admirers daily. Though the identity of the subject has long been under debate (Was she the wife of an Italian city official? Is she meant to be in mourning? Is “she” a man—perhaps even a self-portrait of da Vinci himself?), many specialists say she is Lisa Gherardini, wife of 16th-century Florentine cloth merchant Francesco del Giocondo (hence the work’s alternative title, La Gioconda).The painting has been through a lot over the years. It was stolen in 1911 (by a Louvre employee who simply put the painting under his coat and walked out with it) and wasn’t recovered until 1913. During World War II, it was housed in various parts of France for safekeeping. In 1956, the painting was severely damaged after someone threw acid on it. In 1962 and 1963, it toured the United States, and was shown in New York City and Washington, D.C. In 1974, it was shown in Tokyo and Moscow. All the hype and history aside, some find actually seeing Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa (painted between 1503 and 1507) a disappointment. It’s a very small painting (just 77cm tall, 53cm wide) and has been kept behind glass since it was attacked by a vandal in the 1990s. That, along with the crowds surrounding it, makes it difficult to connect with. Despite these shortcomings, few come to the Louvre without stopping by. 1st floor, Room 6.
❽ ★★★ Italian Sculpture. Make your way down to the ground floor of the Denon Wing and head to Room 4, which is filled with exquisite Italian sculptures. Michelangelo’s two statues are among the most dramatic in the room—the muscular arms of his Rebellious Slave are tensed furiously against his bindings, while the Dying Slave seems resigned to his fate. Both were commissioned in 1505 by Pope Julius II as funerary art. Look across the room for the delicate wings of Cupid, who clutches the breast of Psyche in a pas de deux in pure white marble in Antonio Canova’s Cupid Awakening Psyche (1793). It is love carved in stone. Ground floor, Room 4; the collection continues on the lower-ground floor immediately below.
❾ ★★★ Cour Visconti. Opened in 2012, the newly refurbished Cour Visconti section provides the Louvre’s more than 2,000 pieces of Islamic art with an appropriately prominent setting. The fascinating collections (including many lavish pieces made for heads of state) highlight the development of Islamic art from its beginnings in the 7th century up until the early 19th, showing the differences in artistic styles according to culture, geography, and era. Lower-ground floor, Rooms 1 to 9.
You’d need a lifetime to fully explore the hundreds of museums in Paris. Once you’ve visited the behemoths (the Louvre, Musée d’Orsay, and Centre Pompidou), there are dozens of beautiful, more intimate addresses dedicated to sculpture, inventions, and architecture. This section is not a tour per se, but a list to be dipped into as you please. START: Métro to Varennes.
Save on Admission Fees
The permanent collections of all of Paris’s 14 municipal museums are free (see www.parismusees.paris.fr for a full list). If you plan to visit several nonmunicipal museums over 2, 4, or 6 days, you’ll save money with the Paris Museum Pass (www.parismuseumpass.com; 2 days 42€, 4 days 56€, 6 days 69€), available for purchase at more than 60 participating museums and online.
❶ ★★ Musée Rodin. This peaceful museum, housed in the building that was once sculptor Auguste Rodin’s studio, can’t help but inspire thoughts of romance. The Thinker ponders in the sublime gardens, while the lovers in The Kiss are locked in a permanent embrace inside. 1 hr. Hôtel Biron, 79 rue de Varenne, 7th. ☎ 01-44-18-61-10. www.musee-rodin.fr. Admission museum 9€ ages 26 & over, 7€ ages 18–25, free for children 18 & under, & visitors 25 & under from E.U. countries; gardens 2€. Tues–Sun 10am–5:45pm. Métro: Varenne or Invalides. RER C: Invalides.
The Thinker strikes a contemplative pose outside the Musée Rodin.
❷ ★★ Musée Gustave Moreau. Painter Gustave Moreau was around at the same time as the Impressionists, but he worked against the prevailing mood, drawing inspiration from the Bible, Greek mythology, Leonardo da Vinci, and Indian miniatures. This atmospheric museum, where he lived and worked, reveals Moreau’s obsession with knick knacks and furniture, which are displayed alongside his fabulous mythical beasts and fantasy worlds. 1 hr. 14 rue de la Rochefoucauld, 9th. ☎ 01-48-74-38-50. www.musee-moreau.fr. Admission 6€ adults, 4€ ages 19–25, free for ages 18 & under, free for everyone 1st Sun of the month. Wed–Mon 10am–12:45pm & 2–5:15pm. Métro: Trinité.
★★★ Musée de la Vie Romantique. Hidden from the rest of the world is this charming, green-shuttered 18th-century mansion that once housed composers Gioachino Rossini and Frédéric Chopin, novelist George Sand, and painter Eugène Delacroix. But what really takes the gâteau (cake), quite literally, is the rose garden, which doubles as an outside tearoom. Decadence is yours for the price of your café and tarte au citron (lemon tart). 16 rue Chaptal, 9th. ☎ 01-55-31-95-67. www.parismusees.paris.fr. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. Free admission. Métro: Pigalle, St-Georges, or Blanche.
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★★ Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine. Comprising 8 sq. km (3 sq. miles) of space in the east wing of the Palais de Chaillot, the City of Architecture and Heritage contains more than 850 breathtaking full-size copies of French architectural treasures, including molded portions of churches, châteaux, and great French cathedrals, such as Chartres. There are also reconstructions of modern architecture, the centerpiece of which is an apartment by Le Corbusier. 2 hr. Palais de Chaillot, 1 place du Trocadéro, 16th. ☎ 01-58-51-52-00. www.citechaillot.fr. Admission 8€ adults, 6€ ages 19–25, free for ages 18 & under & visitors 25 & under from E.U. countries, free for everyone 1st Sun of the month. Wed & Fri–Mon 11am–7pm, Thurs 11am–9pm. Métro: Trocadéro.
The Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine is a must-see for architecture buffs.
❺ ★★ Musée Bourdelle. Hidden away from the hustle and bustle of Montparnasse is the workshop where Rodin’s star pupil, sculptor Antoine Bourdelle (1861–1929), lived and worked. The sumptuous array of statues, many inspired by Greek mythology, includes Centaure Mourant (The Dying Centaur) writhing in agony; Penelope, Ulysses’s wife, who waited 20 years for her husband to return; and, in the gorgeous walled garden, the colossal General Alvear horse statue (part of an allegorical monument that was never finished). 90 min. 18 rue Antoine-Bourdelle, 15th. ☎ 01-49-54-73-73. www.bourdelle.paris.fr. Free admission. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. Closed public holidays. Métro: Montparnasse-Bienvenue.
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★★★ Musée des Arts et Métiers. This museum, founded in the 18th century by Abbot Grégoire as “a store for useful new inventions,” is an absolute gem. Housed in the former Benedictine church and priory of Saint-Martin-des-Champs, it exhibits some of the world’s greatest inventions, from Pascal’s calculating devices and celestial spheres to the first computers, steam-powered vehicles, and even airplanes (including the monoplane Louis Blériot flew across the English Channel in 1909). 2 hr. 60 rue Réamur, 3rd. ☎ 01-53-01-82-00. www.arts-et-metiers.net. Admission 8€ adults, 5.50€ ages 19–25, free for ages 18 & under & visitors 25 & under from E.U. countries. Free for everyone 1st Sun of the month, and Thurs after 6pm. Tues–Wed & Fri–Sun 10am–6pm, Thurs 10am–9:30pm. Métro: Arts et Métiers.
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★★ Musée Jacquemart-André. This decorative-arts museum, set in the stately former home of the collectors it’s named for—Nélie Jacquemart and Edouard André—houses an array of rare 18th-century French paintings and furnishings, 17th-century Dutch and Flemish paintings, and Italian Renaissance works fit for a king. The salons drip with gilt and the ultimate in fin-de-siècle style. Works by Bellini, Carpaccio, Uccello, van Dyck, Rembrandt, Tiepolo, Rubens, Watteau, Boucher, Fragonard, and Mantegna hang on almost every wall. If you fancy a decadent snack, Mme. Jacquemart’s high-ceilinged tearoom complies, with delicious sticky cakes and piping-hot tea (served 11:45am–5:30pm). 1 hr. 158 bd. Haussmann, 8th. ☎ 01-45-62-11-59. www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com. Admission 12€ adults, 10€ ages 7–17, free for children 6 & under. Daily 10am–6pm (until 8:30pm on Mon during temporary exhibitions). Métro: Miromesnil or St-Philippe du Roule.
A sumptuous salon in the Musée Jacquemart-André.
You only have to look at the Louvre’s glass pyramid or the Pompidou Centre’s madcap exterior to realize that Parisians can be unconventional when they put their minds to it—something that’s also reflected in the city’s art scene, which includes everything from edgy art squats to sleek museums and galleries. Here’s where to find Paris’s most exciting modern and contemporary art venues, both big and small. START: Métro to Rambuteau.
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★★★ The Pompidou Centre. This benchmark art venue, designed by Richard Rogers and Renzo Piano, holds the largest collection of modern art in Europe. The permanent collections cover 20th- and 21st-century art, with some 40,000 rotating works. The fifth floor is dedicated to modern art from 1905 to 1960 (Fauvism, Cubism, interwar art, Surrealism, abstraction, and neorealism). Floor four covers 1960 to the modern day, providing themed rooms that focus on such movements as antiform art (arte povera) and video installations. Go it alone, or opt for the English audio-guided visit. Don’t miss the stunning view of Paris from the top floor. 2 hr. Place Georges Pompidou, 4th. ☎ 01-44-78-12-33. www.centre-pompidou.fr. Admission 14€ ages 26 & over, 11€ students & ages 19–26, free for children 18 & under & visitors 26 & under from E.U. countries. Wed–Mon 11am–9pm (until midnight for some exhibitions & 11pm Thurs). Métro: Rambuteau or Hôtel de Ville. RER A & B: Châtelet-les-Halles.
The Pompidou Centre houses Europe’s biggest collection of modern art.
❷ ★ Palais de Tokyo. This “Site de Création Contemporaine” is a showcase for experimental art on a big scale. Inside its stripped-back interior, international artists fill the space with temporary exhibitions. It also wows with two good eateries: Tokyo Eat, a manga-chic canteen (12pm–12am) and Monsieur Bleu, a posh neo–Art Deco brasserie with a cocktail bar and an Eiffel Tower–view terrace (12pm–2am). 2 hr. 13 av. du President Wilson, 16th. ☎ 01-81-97-35-88. www.palaisdetokyo.com. Admission 10€ ages 27 & over, 8€ ages 19–26, free for children 18 & under. Wed–Mon noon–midnight. Métro: Alma-Marceau or Iéna. RER C: Pont d’Alma.
The Palais de Tokyo is the place in Paris for contemporary art installations.
❸ ★★ Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris. Take yourself on a journey through 20th-century “isms”: Fauvism, Cubism, Surrealism, realism, expressionism, and neorealism to be exact, with works by such artists as Braque, Dufy, Picasso, Léger, and Matisse. In addition to the permanent collection, expect fascinating retrospectives on major 20th-century artistic movements, plus thematic exhibitions on the best of today’s artistic pickings. 11 av. du Président Wilson, 16th. ☎ 01-53-67-40-00. www.mam.paris.fr. Free admission for permanent collections. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm (until 10pm Thurs for temporary exhibitions). Métro: Alma-Marceau or Iéna. RER C: Pont d’Alma.
❹ La Gaïté Lyrique. Set inside a former Belle Epoque theater, this multidisciplinary arts center specializes in digital art by both recognized and up-and-coming names. Displays are consistently cutting-edge, featuring disciplines like music, graphic design, fashion, and even video games. 3 bis rue Papin, 3rd. ☎ 01-53-01-52-00. www.gaite-lyrique.net. Admission 7.50€ ages 26 & over, 5.50€ ages 25 & under. Tues–Sat 2–8pm, Sun 2–6pm. Closed mid-Aug to mid-Sept. Métro: Réamur-Sébastopol/Arts et Métiers.
❺ ★ Fondation Louis Vuitton. Sydney’s opera house meets a space-age galleon in this vast, whimsical art space (built by American architect Frank Gehry). Amid its glass sails, sunken water-features and clever lighting are big, stark spaces spattered with paintings, a state-of-the-art auditorium and an excellent bookshop. Chic Le Frank restaurant serves contemporary French cuisine. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi, 16th. ☎ 01-40-69-96-00. www.fondationlouisvuitton.fr. Admission 14€ ages 27 & over, 10€ ages 25 & under, & students with a valid card, 5€ ages 4–18, free ages 3 & under. Mon, Wed–Thurs 12–7pm, Fri 12–11pm, Sat–Sun 11am–8pm. Métro: Les Sablons or by electric shuttle from Place Charles de Gaulle (corner of Ave Friedland).
The Gehry-designed Fondation Louis Vuitton houses exhibition space, an auditorium, and Le Frank restaurant.
For fans of Papa Hemingway, a trip to Paris is a pilgrimage. This is where Hemingway honed his craft, bullied F. Scott Fitzgerald, and charmed Gertrude Stein. Here he married more than once and had countless mistresses, not the least of which was Paris herself. Oh sure, he cheated on her with Cuba and Spain, but we all know Paris is the one he really loved. This tour follows his spectacular rise and charts the beginning of his fall. START: Métro to Censier Daubenton.
❶ ★ Marché Mouffetard. At the beginning of his memoir, A Moveable Feast, Hemingway describes spending time on Rue Mouffetard’s “wonderful narrow crowded market street.” That description still fits—it’s narrow, crowded, and wonderfully Parisian.
Rue Mouffetard.
❷ Ernest & Hadley’s Apartment. Several blocks up Rue Mouffetard, Rue du Cardinal-Lemoine branches off to the right. A few houses down, on the fourth floor of no. 74, a 22-year-old Hemingway and his wife Hadley rented their first Parisian apartment together in 1921. 74 rue du Cardinal-Lemoine, 5th.
❸ Hemingway’s Writing Apartment. When he first moved to Paris as a writer for the Toronto Star newspaper, Hemingway took a grimy, cheap room on the top floor of a hotel on Rue Descartes to write in peace. The building—as a small wall plaque says—was also where French poet Paul Verlaine died in 1896. 39 rue Descartes, 5th.
❹ ★ Shakespeare & Company. Walk toward the river for about 15 minutes, first on Rue Descartes (which joins Rue Montagne St-Geneviève) through Place Maubert, then down Rue F. Sauton, and then take a sharp left onto Rue de la Bucherie to reach Paris’s best expat bookstore. In the 1920s, it was at 12 rue de l’Odéon (see stop ❽ on this tour) and belonged to American publisher Sylvia Beach. It was at that location that Hemingway broke a vase when he read a bad review, that Henry Miller used to “borrow” books and never bring them back, and that James Joyce’s Ulysses was first published. The current location is still a favorite of writers for its eccentric attitude and wonderful selection of books. 30 min–1 hr. 37 rue de la Bucherie, 5th. ☎ 01-43-25-40-93. www.shakespeareandcompany.com. Daily 10am–11pm. Métro: St-Michel.
❺ Booksellers along Quai des Grands Augustins. Hemingway frequently shopped here among the secondhand book peddlers (called bouquinistes) along the edge of the Seine. Now, as then, their collections are bewilderingly eclectic and somewhat hit-and-miss—like a flea market for books. I once saw the complete Harry Potter collection, in English, next to a book of French erotica. 30 min–1 hr. Quai des Grands Augustins, 6th.
One of the secondhand booksellers along the Quai des Grands Augustins.
Café Pré aux Clercs. Next you’ll come to a series of cafes where you can take a well-deserved rest, as Hem surely would, over a whiskey or a glass of the house red. The first cafe is this charming one reached by walking down Rue des Grands Augustins. (No. 7 was once Pablo Picasso’s studio.) Turn onto Rue St-André des Arts, and then right along Rue de Seine and left onto the antiques-shop-lined Rue Jacob, which brings you to Rue Bonaparte and this cafe. It was one of Hem’s early haunts, a short walk from the Hotel d’Angleterre, where he slept (in room no.14) on his first night in Paris. Continue down rue Bonaparte and you’ll get to more-famous (and more-touristy) Les Deux Magots. 30 rue Bonaparte, 6th. ☎ 01-83-76-16-53. www.restaurant-preauxclercs.com. $$–$$$.
★★ Les Deux Magots. Loop down noisy Rue des Saints-Pères to the more sophisticated hustle of Boulevard Saint-Germain, and soon you’ll see the glass front of this cafe, which has gotten more mileage out of the gay ’20s than any flapper ever could have. This was the preeminent hangout of the arty expat crowd, where Hemingway charmed the girls, picked fights with the critics, and hassled tourists. The feel today is admittedly touristy, and the food pricey, but it’s still a good place to have a coffee and wonder what he’d think of it all now. 6 place St-Germain-des-Prés, 6th. ☎ 01-45-48-55-25. www.lesdeuxmagots.fr. $$–$$$.
❽ Shakespeare & Company’s Original Site. You can get in a bit of shopping at the posh boutiques on Rue Saint-Sulpice before turning right onto Rue de l’Odéon and passing a plaque marking the site of the original Shakespeare & Company bookstore. 12 rue de l’Odéon, 6th.
❾ Hemingway’s Last Apartment. After turning down Rue de Vaugirard and walking past the French Senate, look for this narrow lane near the Jardins du Luxembourg. The impressive building at no. 6 was Hemingway’s last Paris apartment. From the look of its ornate stonework, and heavy gates, you might get the idea that he’d written a successful novel (The Sun Also Rises) and left poor Hadley for somebody richer (Pauline Pfeiffer). And so he had. Here, he wrote A Farewell to Arms, and began his descent into alcoholism. 6 rue Férou, 6th. 
