Frommer’s Paris day by day

Lodging Tip

From world-class palaces to tiny B&Bs, Paris has it all—except huge rooms (unless you fork out for a suite). Many hotels are in historic buildings that cannot be changed structurally, so rooms are generally “cozy.” Price-wise, always look for Internet discounts on the hotels’ own websites; hit the right dates and you can sometimes get up to 50% off. Discount travel sites, such as www.booking.com, www.expedia.com, and www.venere.com, also offer deals on select hotels. Prices vary with the season. August (low season) is usually cheapest; the rest of the year fluctuates, peaking during trade fairs and fashion week (check dates at www.fashionweekdates.com). When choosing your hotel, here’s a brief guide to the arrondissements (districts): Postcodes are from 75001 to 75020. Areas 1 (75001) to 8 (75008) are very central; 9 to 11 and 17 to 20 are the city’s up-and-coming, trendy areas; and 12 to 16 are largely residential but have plenty of atmosphere. Arrondissement 13 contains the city’s main Chinese neighborhood.

★ Generator Hostel COLONEL FABIEN Set in a revamped office block, this funky, next-generation hostel offers vintage-chic dorms and private rooms with their own rooftop-view terraces. The other draws are the cafe (overlooking a garden; it’s a great spot for breakfast), and the rooftop bar, which serves snacks, plays music, and offers uninterrupted views over the city. You’re a 15-minute walk from the Gare du Nord Eurostar terminal, too. 9-11 place du Colonel Fabien, 10th. ☎ 01-70-98-84-00. www.generatorhostels.com. 198 units. Shared rooms from 29€, private rooms from 55€. MC, V. Métro: Colonel Fabien. Map p 138.

★★ Grand Pigalle Hotel PIGALLE This new hipster hangout calls itself a B&B, but don’t be fooled: the second “B” refers to “beverages” served in its neo–Art Deco bar—a low-lit little treasure offering craft cocktails and over 200 wines. Rooms are artfully vintage with bold wallpaper and granny-chic headboards. Corner rooms look up at Montmartre (ask when you book). You couldn’t ask for a better spot for exploring both trendy SoPi (South Pigalle) and Montmartre’s cobbled streets. 29 rue Victor Massé, 9th. ☎ 01-85-73-12-00. www.grandpigalle.com. 37 units Double 185€–241€. MC, V. Métro: Pigalle. Map p 137.

★ Hôtel Amour PIGALLE Rooms in this boutique hotel are individually decorated by progressive artists such as Sophie Calle, M&M, and Pierre Le Tan. The result in some is risqué (photos of bare bottoms), but if you mind, what are you doing in Pigalle? The brasserie-bar with a hidden garden is a hit with Paris’s trendy crowd. 8 rue Navarin, 9th. ☎ 01-48-78-31-80. www.hotelamourparis.fr. 20 units. Double 135€–310€. AE, MC, V. Métro: Pigalle or St Georges. Map p 138.

★★ Hôtel Balzac CHAMPS-ELYSEES This Belle Epoque mansion with a pretty courtyard is luxuriously designed with ostentatious 19th-century touches and king-size beds. Its elegant restaurant is a hit with locals, who come for its relatively low prices (45€ a head) and intimate atmosphere. 6 rue Balzac, 8th. ☎ 01-44-35-18-00. www.hotelbalzac.com. 70 units. Double 400€–900€. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: George-V. Map p 137.

★ Hôtel Banke OPERA This smart hotel has a breathtaking neo–Belle Epoque lobby, left over from a time when the building was a bank (hence the name). Rooms are stylish in browns and reds, and beds have ultra-comfy mattresses. The restaurant offers a menu with a Spanish twist. 20 rue Lafayette, 9th. ☎ 01-55-33-22-22. www.derbyhotels.com. 94 units. Double 280€–540€. AE, MC, V. Métro: Le Peletier. Map p 138.

★★★ Hôtel Baume ODEON Set on a tranquil street near the neo-classical Théâtre de l’Odéon (and a 5-minute walk from the Luxembourg gardens), this chic neo-’30s-style hotel offers exquisite rooms (all pinks, blues, or terracottas) that follow themes such as jewelry, fashion, design, and film. Some have private terraces, and some suites are so big you feel as though you’re in an apartment. There’s a quaint little walled breakfast terrace to boot. 7 rue Casimir Delavigne, 6th. ☎ 01-53-10-28-50. www.baume-hotel-paris.com. 35 units. Double 252€–370€. AE, MC, V. Métro: Odéon. Map p 140.

★ Hôtel Bel-Ami LATIN QUARTER Recently restored, this sleek, arts-conscious hotel has a minimalist look with a clean design aesthetic. Earth-tone guest rooms have a Zen-like air. Check the website for deals. 7–11 rue St-Benoit, 6th. ☎ 01-49-27-09-33. www.hotel-bel-ami.com. 115 units. Double 280€–470€. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: St-Germain-des-Prés. Map p 140.

★ Hôtel Britannique HOTEL DE VILLE Tastefully modern and plush, this place has cultivated a kind of English graciousness. Guest rooms are small but nicely appointed and soundproof. The location is so central, you can walk almost anywhere. 20 av. Victoria, 1st. ☎ 01-42-33-74-59. www.hotel-britannique.com. 39 units. Double 152€–359€. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Châtelet. Map p 138.

★★ Hôtel des Grandes Ecoles LATIN QUARTER This country house—with its old-fashioned floral wallpaper, chintz, and lace—is a welcome break from the city hubbub. The bucolic feel continues in the flower-filled garden, where noisy traffic dissolves into the twittering of birds—the perfect place for a lazy breakfast. Rooms are spotlessly clean and the welcome is friendly. 75 rue Cardinal Lemoine, 5th. ☎ 01-43-26-79-23. www.hotel-grandes-ecoles.com. 51 units. Double 135€–165€. MC, V. Métro: Cardinal Lemoine. Map p 140.

★ Hôtel du Bourg Tibourg MARAIS Hotels with far less style can cost twice as much as this well-located place. Rooms are small but comfortable, with romantic modern decor and lush fabrics in everything from leopard print to stripes. 19 rue du Bourg-Tibourg, 4th. ☎ 01-42-78-47-39. www.hoteldubourgtibourg.com. 30 units. Double 290€–380€. AE, MC, V. Métro: Hôtel-de-Ville. Map p 138.

★ Hôtel Duc de St-Simon INVALIDES A sweet courtyard offers your first glimpse into this hopelessly romantic hotel that has seduced the likes of Lauren Bacall. Rooms are filled with antiques, objets d’art, and lush fabrics. Some have terraces overlooking a garden. 14 rue de St-Simon, 7th. ☎ 01-44-39-20-20. www.hotelducdesaintsimon.com. 34 units. Double 295€–365€. AE, MC, V. Métro: Rue du Bac. Map p 140.

★★ Hôtel du Louvre LOUVRE This former home of painter Camille Pissarro is now a sort of Belle Epoque luxury hotel, resplendent with marble, bronze, and gilt galore. Guest rooms are replete with antiques and heavy fabrics. Place André Malraux, 1st. ☎ 01-44-58-38-38. www.hoteldulouvre.com. 177 units. Double 365€–490€. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Palais Royal or Louvre Rivoli. Map p 138.

★ Hôtel Eugène en Ville GRANDS BOULEVARDS Steely grays and cornflower blues, mixed with dandy-esque touches such as drawings of dogs in top hats, lend an industrial-baroque feel to this spanking new hotel. Rooms are smallish but tasteful, with black and white accents. Should you wish to eat in, the hotel has a handy canteen, serving rather good wine and charcuterie/cheese platters. 6 rue Bouffaut, 9th. ☎ 01-40-22-04-34. www.eugeneenville.fr. 66 units. Double 170€–245€. MC, V. Métro: Le Peletier or Grands Boulevards. Map p 138.

★ Hôtel Gabriel REPUBLIQUE Relaxing massages, healthy food, and Zen decor are what you get at Paris’s first-ever detox hotel. Come here to wind down and escape the city life outside. 25 rue du Grand Prieuré, 11th. ☎ 01-47-00-13-38. www.hotelgabrielparis.com. 40 units. Double 149€–405€. MC, V. Métro: République. Map p 138.

★★ Hôtel Le Belmont CHAMPS ELYSEES Luxurious, beautiful, and kitted out with a spa, this gem of a hotel throws you back to the Napoleon III era, with opulent furnishings and deep wood paneling. Rooms are theatrical (quite literally when it comes to the stage-curtain headboards) and the black marble in the bathrooms sparkles like onyx. For an extra treat, book a body massage in the Carita spa (130€) or check out the Turkish bath and gym. 30 rue de Bassano, 16th. ☎ 01-53-57-75-00. www.belmont-paris-hotel.com. 74 units. Double 210€–375€. MC, V. Métro: Kléber or Georges V. Map p 137.

★★

Hôtel Lion d’Or TUILERIES The “Golden Lion” has bright, simple rooms, plus fully furnished apartments that sleep up to five people. It’s well located, too, right near the Louvre. 5 rue de la Sourdière, 1st. ☎ 01-42-60-79-04. www.hotel-louvre-paris.com. 27 units. Double 148€–265€, apt 230€–300€. MC, V. Métro: Tuileries. Map p 138.

★★★

Hôtel Louison MONTPARNASSE/SAINT-GERMAIN Rooms in this family-run hotel are lushly decorated in thick, patterned fabrics and parquet floors. The hearty breakfasts are served in a bistro-style room that feels like a Left Bank institution. Families are welcome here, but the atmosphere is nonetheless romantic, too. 105 rue Vaugirard, 6th. ☎ 01-53-63-25-50. www.louison-hotel.com. 42 units. Double 188€–385€. AE, MC, V. Métro: Montparnasse or St-Placide. Map p 140.

★★ Hôtel Meurice CONCORDE Salvador Dalí once made this hotel his headquarters. It’s gorgeous, with perfectly preserved mosaic floors, hand-carved moldings, and an Art Nouveau glass roof. Rooms are sumptuous and individually decorated, some with fluffy clouds and blue skies painted on the ceilings. 228 rue de Rivoli, 1st. ☎ 01-44-58-10-10. www.meuricehotel.com. 160 units. Double 750€–1,065€. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Tuileries or Concorde. Map p 138.

★★★ Hôtel Particulier MONTMARTRE You’ll be hard-pressed to find somewhere more romantic or stylish than this hidden gem, nestled down a leafy passage by a rock called Rocher de la Sorcière (Witch’s Rock). Avant-garde artists have given each room a special touch. The hotel’s a favorite local haunt too, thanks to its excellent brunches and cocktails. 23 av. Junot, 18th. ☎ 01-53-41-81-40. www.hotel-particulier-montmartre.com. 5 units. Double 360€–590€. MC, V. Métro: Lamarck-Caulincourt. Map p 137.

★ Hôtel Saint-Louis en l’Isle ÎLE ST-LOUIS A charming family atmosphere reigns at this antiques-filled hotel in a 17th-century town house. Rooms are small but well decorated, there are lots of lovely touches, and the location is excellent. Great value for the price. 75 rue St-Louis-en-l’Île, 4th. ☎ 01-46-34-04-80. www.hotelsaintlouis.com. 19 units. Double 165€–255€. MC, V. Métro: Pont Marie or St-Michel-Notre-Dame. Map p 138.

★★★ Hôtel Shangri-La CHAILLOT Set inside the 19th-century palace Napoleon built for his great-nephew Prince Roland Bonaparte, this hotel drips with fine furniture, chandeliers, and antiques. But there’s a modern edge, too, in the classy rooms, lounge, and two superlative eateries: L’Abeille for haute French cuisine (p 112) and La Bauhinia brasserie, which mixes Asian and French flavors. The spa has one of the city’s loveliest pools. 10 av. d’Iéna, 16th. ☎ 01-53-67-19-98. www.shangri-la.com. 81 units. Double 740€–1,200€. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Iéna. Map p 137.

★★ Hôtel Welcome SAINT-GERMAIN-DES-PRES Nestled among the art galleries and cafes of Saint-Germain, this quaint hotel oozes atmosphere, with wooden beams, old furniture, classic red-and-cream drapes, and street views from most bedrooms. A real steal for such a good Left Bank location. 66 rue de Seine, 6th. ☎ 01-46-34-24-80. www.hotelwelcomeparis.com. 29 units. Double 137€–240€. MC, V. Métro: St-Germain-des-Prés or Odéon. Map p 140.

★★★ Hôtel Westminster OPERA This gorgeous hotel is favored by shoppers who prowl Place Vendôme, Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, and the department stores around Opéra Garnier for chic attire. Decor is resolutely stylish: classic marbles, deep woods, and plush fabrics. The Michelin-starred restaurant is known for its fine contemporary French cuisine. 13 rue de la Paix, 2nd. ☎ 01-42-61-57-46. www.warwickwestminsteropera.com. 102 units. Double 230€–680€. AE, MC, V. Métro: Opéra. RER: Auber. Map p 138.

Hyatt Paris Madeleine MADELEINE This palace hotel is a citadel of luxurious 21st-century living. High ceilings and neo–Art Deco touches make the hotel airy and dramatic. The sleek fittings add to the luxury, as do the rich fabrics and precious wooden furniture. 24 bd. Malesherbes, 8th. ☎ 01-55-27-15-34. www.paris.madeleine.hyatt.com/hyatt/hotels. 86 units. Double 430€–750€. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: St-Augustin. Map p 137.

★★★

Le Bristol CHAMPS-ELYSEES Paris’s most discreet palace hotel is a favorite with celebrities, politicians, and royalty. Guest rooms are lavish, large, and luxurious. The swimming pool has views over the whole city. In the summer, the three-Michelin-starred restaurant, Epicure, opens onto Paris’s biggest palace garden (1,500 sq. m/16,000 sq. ft.), and its one-starred 114 Faubourg brasserie is well worth crossing Paris for. If you can’t afford a room, observe the glitterati over a cocktail in the bar. You might even meet Fa-raon and Kléopatre, the resident cats—they’re a hit with kids. 112 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, 8th. ☎ 01-53-43-43-00. www.hotel-bristol.com. 170 units. Double 800€–2,200€. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt. Map p 137.

★★★ Les Bains Paris MARAIS What started as a 19th-century bathhouse (where Proust once bathed), became a famous nightclub in 1978—a place where film stars, artists, and supermodels threw wild parties that generally ended in the baths. Today it’s the city’s edgiest hotel and still draws A-listers. Room-wise, expect understated opulence in distressed walls and vintage furniture. The blood-red restaurant serves food until midnight, and the basement harbors a nightclub and the revamped baths. 7 rue du Bourg-l’Abbé, 3rd. ☎ 01-42-77-07-07. www.lesbains-paris.com. 39 units. Double 380€–750€. MC, V. Métro: Etienne Marcel or Arts et Métiers. Map p 138.

★ Le Vert Galant GOBELINS Set around a serene garden and attached to an excellent Corsican restaurant, it isn’t hard to see why this is one of the city’s best budget hotels. Some rooms even have kitchenettes so you can save money by cooking. Sidle up to a table in the garden after a long day’s sightseeing. It’s a wonderful spot for winding down, drink in hand. 43 rue Croulebarbe, 13th. ☎ 01-44-08-83-50. http://vertgalant.hotel-restaurant-paris.com. 17 units. Double 90€–150€. MC, V. Métro: Gobelins. Map p 140.

★ L’Hôtel SAINT-GERMAIN-DES-PRES The hotel where Oscar Wilde died is now one of the Left Bank’s most distinctive boutique hotels. Each guest room is different, some with fireplaces, some with fabric-covered walls. There’s a swimming pool in the cellar, and the restaurant is one of the best in town. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts, 6th. ☎ 01-44-41-99-00. www.l-hotel.com. 20 units. Double 255€–680€. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: St-Germain-des-Prés. Map p 140.

★★★ Pension les Marronniers LUXEMBOURG This is one of the city’s very last pensions de famille (boarding houses)—perfect for nostalgic travelers looking for a slice of bygone Paris. It has been in the owner’s family since the 1930s and offers great views over the Luxembourg Gardens. Rooms are cluttered—just as they should be. Some share washing facilities. Half-board is available. 78 rue d’Assas, 6th. ☎ 01-43-26-37-71. www.pension-marronniers.com. 7 units. Double 94€–120€. No credit cards. Weekly and monthly rentals. Métro: Notre-Dame des Champs or Vavin Map p 140.

★★★ Providence République In the heart of Paris’s shabby-chic “hipsterland” (spreading from the Canal St-Martin to the Marais), this atmospheric retro-design hotel woos with dark flowery wallpaper, claw-foot bathtubs, metro tiles, and chintzy light shades. The kitschy bar/restaurant serves lip-smacking bistro fare, and in-room perks include iMacs, free VOD (video on demand), and bars with icemakers. 90 rue René Boulanger, 10th. ☎ 01-46-34-34-04. www.hotelprovidenceparis.com. 22 units. Double 190€–270€. MC, V. Métro: République or Jacques Bonsergent. Map p 138.

Bed & Breakfasts in Paris

For a special, intimate Parisian experience, consider booking a B&B. Here are some reliable places to try: Alcôve & Agapes (☎ 01-44-85-06-05; www.bed-and-breakfast-in-paris.com), with more than 100 regularly inspected addresses throughout central Paris; Hôtes Qualité Paris (www.hotesqualiteparis.fr), which has a long, trustworthy selection verified by City Hall; and Alastair Sawday’s (www.sawdays.co.uk), which lists many special B&Bs and apartments to rent. To live like a local in trendy SoPi (south Pigalle, below Montmartre), try 52 Clichy, 52 rue de Clichy, 9th (☎ 01-44-53-93-65; www.52clichy.com; from 105€), a fabulous B&B for two, with a separate flat that sleeps up to four people. Breakfast is copious; the balcony views over Paris’s steely rooftops picturesque; and the welcome, by expat owner Rosemary, perfect. She can even give you a makeover (prices on request), as she’s an image consultant by trade.

★★★

Regent’s Garden Hotel CHAMPS-ELYSEES A good, guilt-free night’s sleep is guaranteed in this environmentally friendly hotel, whose efforts to reduce carbon emissions have earned it the difficult-to-obtain European Ecolabel. Rooms are elegant, in bold stripes and patterns; there’s a relaxing spa and a flower-filled courtyard—perfect for breakfast alfresco. 6 rue Pierre Demours, 8th. ☎ 01-45-74-07-30. www.hotel-regents-paris.com. 40 units. Double 179€–300€. AE, MC, V. Métro: Ternes or Charles de Gaulle–Etoile. Map p 137.

★★ Renaissance Paris Arc de Triomphe CHAMPS-ELYSEES Order a Paris Sky View Room and watch the Eiffel Tower twinkle from your balcony in this trendy five-star hotel. It has elegantly modern architecture, and if you fancy non-French cuisine, the Macassar restaurant serves scrumptious Indonesian-inspired dishes like ikan dabu dabu (roasted marinated swordfish with basmati rice and sauce vierge). 39 av. de Wagram, 17th. 01-55-37-55-37. www.marriott.com. 118 units. Double from 236€–560€. MC, V. Métro: Ternes. Map p 137.

★★★ Solar Hôtel DENFERT-ROCHEREAU Paris’s first low-budget, environmentally friendly hotel has a fabulous concept: Modern rooms without frills but with A/C, TV, and phones; a pretty garden where you can eat the free organic breakfast and hire bikes; static prices year-round; and a genuine low-carbon charter. 22 rue Boulard, 14th. ☎ 01-43-21-08-20. www.solarhotel.fr. 34 units. Double 89€. MC, V. Métro/RER: Denfert-Rochereau. Map p 140.

St-Christopher’s Inn STALINGRAD This English youth hostel chain, set inside an old boat hangar, has funky decor and unbeatable prices. Private rooms and dormers are marine-themed. Dorms are single-sex and mixed, so check when you book. 159 rue de Crimée, 19th. ☎ 01-40-34-34-40. www.st-christophers.co.uk. 350 beds. Dorm from 27€, double 48€–60€. MC, V. Métro: Crimée. Map p 138.

★ Terrass Hôtel MONTMARTRE This hotel is a find, with a marble-floored lobby, blond-oak paneling, and contemporary art. Guest rooms have high ceilings and sophisticated, retro-inspired decor. The rooftop bar/restaurant is coveted by Parisians for its uninterrupted views, which include the Eiffel Tower. 12 rue Joseph de Maistre, 18th. ☎ 01-46-06-72-85. www.terrass-hotel.com. 100 units. Double 247€–450€. MC, V. Métro: Place de Clichy or Blanche. Map p 137.