Jeffrey Saad’s Global Kitchen: Recipes Without Borders

As a third-generation Lebanese boy raised in Chicago, I shaked-and-baked American style at home, but my Lebanese grandmother—my beloved Sittee (that’s “grandmother” in Arabic)—rocked my world with Middle Eastern cuisine. At Sittee’s house, I’d graze on aromatic sfeeha (meat pies), fresh tabboulehs, roasted eggplant dishes glowing with turmeric, sumac-infused fatayer (spinach pies), and amazing Syrian bread salads. The scent of cardamom and rose water filled the air while her kitchen blazed. I couldn’t even find Beirut on the map back then, but if you said Lebanon, I thought food.

Decades later something else lit me on fire, and it wasn’t a habanero chile. It was Nadia, the love of my life, who was born in Iran and raised in Rome. When we married, I inherited a Persian mother-in-law, another sittee, who keeps the tastes of the Middle East constantly simmering in our home, sometimes in grand fashion. Persian New Year, or Norouz, for example, is a veritable feast of classics like sabzi polo mahi (green rice and fish) and golden saffron tahdig (see this page). The culinary heritage of the Middle East, which is such a big part of my childhood, has literally fused its rich, savory stamp on my palate. I hope these recipes will do the same thing for you.

CARDAMOM is the “cologne” of spices. Its warm, musty flavor is also pleasantly medicinal. A spice chameleon, cardamom takes to sweet as well as to savory foods and is often found in Middle Eastern and Indian teas. Cardamom comes in pods, which can be ground or simmered whole in sauces (see this page and this page).

HARISSA is the staple condiment of North Africa and a little tube of pure pleasure. This stunning, bright red paste is a blend of roasted caraway, toasted coriander and cumin, sun-dried tomatoes, and the fiery kick of chiles. An aromatic, moderately spicy paste, harissa warms the palate without overwhelming it. Spread it on steak, lamb, or chicken before grilling, use it to top vegetables, or add it to soups or stews. Harissa is also a scrumptious alternative to plain mayonnaise or ketchup. You can buy it in most supermarkets or online at www.kalustyans.com, for example.

SAFFRON is rich in historical lore and by far the most expensive spice by weight, because it is still farmed almost exclusively by hand. But you don’t need much of it to infuse your food with its fragrant, dried-flower-like perfume and glowing yellow color. Saffron is incredible on fish and chicken, in sauces and vinaigrettes, in risotto or pasta, and, of course, in paella. Just about every world cuisine has a place for this precious spice.

SUMAC speaks Arabic like no other spice. It’s a super-concentrated, purplish dried berry with a subtle floral flavor. Because of its slight astringency, sumac is sometimes used in place of lemon or vinegar. When blended with thyme and sesame seeds, sumac produces the exotic (and very Arabic) seasoning called zaatar. Sumac is used in spice rubs, marinades, and dressings, and is also served as a condiment throughout the Middle East.

TURMERIC has a complex, woody, slightly musky flavor with subtle hints of mustard and ginger. Like saffron, turmeric has a yellow color and a rich fragrance that marries well with various ethnic cuisines. It is an essential element in Indian curry powders, pastes, and masalas. Radiant to the max, turmeric makes even a humble egg dish glow with color and flavor.

THYME has more than fifty different varieties and is featured in foods around the globe. With a distinctly herbal aroma and a lemony taste, thyme complements dishes without overpowering other flavors. It is an essential herb in the bouquet garni that the French use to season stocks and soups, stews, and veggie dishes, and is a quintessential part of marinades worldwide, from French bourguignon to the yogurt dressings popular in Greece and Lebanon. Use it by stripping the leaves from their stems or use whole sprigs to flavor your soups and stews.

HARISSA-ROASTED BABA GHANOUSH

Baba ghanoush is as classically Middle Eastern a dish as it gets. Adding my favorite North African chile paste, harissa, lends a blast of heat and a full-bodied kick that marry perfectly with creamy eggplant. Because cumin and caraway are in harissa, I love toasting and grinding a bit more of these seeds into the baba ghanoush—it’s like hitting the turbo switch on a medley of fire-roasted flavors.

MAKES 2 CUPS BABA GHANOUSH

½ teaspoon cumin seed

½ teaspoon caraway seeds

4 Japanese eggplants

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic

2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

1½ teaspoons kosher salt

2 teaspoons tahini

1 tablespoon harissa

6 whole pita breads, toasted

1 | In a dry pan over medium heat, toast the cumin and caraway just until you smell their perfume, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool. Grind finely using a mortar and pestle or a coffee grinder. Set aside.

2 | Turn on a grill to high. Once the grill is hot, place the whole eggplants on the grill and rotate occasionally until evenly black. Set aside to cool. (If using an oven, place the eggplants on a baking sheet on the top rack of the oven. Cook at 500°F for about 15 minutes, rotating them occasionally, until black on all sides.)

3 | While the eggplants are roasting, in a medium skillet over medium heat, add the olive oil. Once it is hot, add the garlic and mint and cook for 30 seconds, just until you can smell the garlic. Remove from the heat and transfer to a food processor.

4 | Peel the eggplants and discard the skins and stems. Put the flesh (you should have about 2 cups) in the food processor with the garlic and mint. Add the salt, tahini, harissa, and ground cumin and caraway. Pulse-chop until all the ingredients are evenly mixed but slightly chunky, or puree them until smooth, if desired. Use a rubber spatula to carefully scrape the bottom and sides of the food processor bowl to ensure that the ingredients are mixed thoroughly.

5 | Put the baba ghanoush in a serving bowl and serve with the toasted pita breads. It can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

ROASTED-GARLIC AND TOASTED-CUMIN HUMMUS WITH SMOKED-PAPRIKA PITA

This version of hummus features garlic which, when roasted, lends sweetness and creaminess as it disappears into the puree. The toasted cumin seed and smoked paprika breathe fire into the mild garbanzo beans.

MAKES 3 CUPS HUMMUS

1 large head garlic

3 teaspoons olive oil

2½ cups Bush’s Best garbanzo beans, rinsed and drained

4 teaspoons tahini

⅓ cup water

1½ teaspoons kosher salt

¼ teaspoon cumin seed, toasted and ground

¼ cup fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

4 pita breads

1 | Preheat the oven to 400°F.

2 | Cut off about ¼ inch of the pointed head of the garlic. Lay the head on a piece of aluminum foil. Do not press the foil against the garlic or it will stick. Drizzle with 1 teaspoon of the olive oil. Bring the corners of the foil to the top to create a pouch. Roast in the oven until the garlic is dark brown and soft, about 45 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool.

3 | Squeeze the cloves of garlic into the bowl of a food processor and discard the skins. Add the garbanzo beans, tahini, water, salt, cumin, and lemon juice. Puree until smooth and creamy, at least 3 minutes. Run the food processor for at least another 3 to 5 minutes, to ensure the maximum creamy texture. Set aside.

4 | In a small bowl, mix together the remaining 2 teaspoons olive oil and the smoked paprika.

5 | Lightly toast the pita breads and set on a cutting board. Using a pastry brush, rub the pita with the smoked paprika olive oil. Cut the pita into triangles. Put the hummus in a bowl on a large platter. Lay the pitas around the bowl and serve.

FLAVOR SECRETS

For silky smooth hummus, blanch the garbanzo beans first. Drop them into boiling water for 1 minute, then transfer to an ice bath. Rub the skins off and discard.

CRISPY PERSIAN RICE (TAHDIG)

Two strong, colorful spices come together in this dish to create something even better than their individual attributes. Saffron delivers its brilliant shades of yellow, orange, and red color and its sweet perfume. Turmeric lends a mustardlike shine and a peppery, earthy quality. Basmati rice has a nutty taste and the perfect texture to withstand the heat in this process, and it caramelizes on the bottom of the pan as it cooks, creating a candylike lid for this Persian classic.

SERVES 6

¼ teaspoon saffron threads or powder

2 cups basmati rice

3 cups water

¼ cup plain yogurt

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

2 teaspoons kosher salt

6 tablespoons olive oil

1 | Soak the saffron in 2 tablespoons of hot water for 10 minutes.

2 | In a medium nonstick saucepan, add the rice. Fill the pot with cold water and then carefully pour out the water, leaving just the wet rice behind. Add the 3 cups water, the yogurt, saffron with its soaking water, turmeric, salt, and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Stir together and bring to a boil.

3 | Turn the heat to low and cover the pot. Cook until all the water is absorbed, 20 to 25 minutes. Uncover and, using the handle of a rubber spatula or large utensil, make five equally spaced holes in the rice, “drilling” to the bottom of the pan. Fill each hole with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Turn and tilt the pan back and forth until the oil completely disappears and spreads out across the bottom of the pan.

4 | Raise the heat to medium and place the lid on slightly ajar. Cook for 15 minutes. (Don’t worry about not seeing the bottom of the rice as it browns—whether it’s light or very dark golden, it will still be tasty.)

5 | Remove from the heat and let cool for 1 minute. Flip the pan over onto a serving plate and you will be rewarded with the golden, crispy rice now on top. Serve immediately with a stew of your choice (see Persian Beef/Eggplant Stew).

FLAVOR SECRETS

You can let saffron sit for a few minutes in a few tablespoons of hot water before adding it (both the saffron and the water) to the pot for a more even distribution of the color and flavor. Grind the saffron threads in a cup of room-temperature water and keep it in the refrigerator for an instant saffron potion that will last indefinitely.

TABBOULEH BREAD SALAD WITH LEMON-SUMAC DRESSING

Tabbouleh meets panzanella and Lebanon meets Italy in this Global Kitchen original. Day-old rustic bread works the best, but fresh bread is fine for showcasing cardamom’s spicy, herbal character and soaking up the vinaigrette. The lemon-sumac dressing brightens your palate with its dried berry flavor, and the parsley leaves are cut “chopped salad” style, giving you the full green, fresh flavor and texture unique to parsley. This is another side dish that can also be eaten as a vegetarian main course.

SERVES 4

1⁄8 cup bulgur

2 cups chopped tomatoes (½-inch cubes)

1 cup finely chopped green onions

½ cup thinly shredded endive

2 tablespoons fresh mint, thinly sliced

2½ cups fresh flat-parsley leaves

¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling, if desired

1 teaspoon ground sumac

½ teaspoon ground green cardamom

½ teaspoon kosher salt

½ teaspoon ground white pepper

4 cups bread cubes (½ inch)

1 | Rinse the bulgur, place it in a medium bowl, cover with 2 inches of cold water, and let sit until soft but still with texture, about 1 hour. Drain and squeeze out the excess moisture.

2 | In a medium bowl (or food processor), mix together the soaked bulgur, tomatoes, green onions, endive, and mint. (If using a food processor, be aware that processing breaks down the herbs, creating excess moisture and muting the flavor of the greens.)

3 | Bunch the parsley leaves into a ball and cup your hand over them as if you are holding an orange. With a sharp knife, slice the parsley as thinly as you can. (Cutting parsley, green onions, and mint very thinly by hand will give you great texture that holds the dressing nicely.) Add to the bulgur-tomato mixture and mix well.

4 | To prepare the dressing, mix together the lemon juice, ¼ cup of the olive oil, the sumac, ¼ teaspoon of the cardamom, the salt, and the white pepper. Pour over the bulgur mixture and mix well to evenly coat. Cover and place in the refrigerator to marinate for 1 hour.

5 | Preheat the oven to 400°F.

6 | Place the bread cubes in a large bowl. Mix together the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and the remaining ¼ teaspoon cardamom and drizzle over the bread cubes. Mix well to coat the bread cubes evenly. Spread out the bread on a sheet pan and toast in the oven until the bread is golden, about 10 minutes. Set aside to cool.

7 | Divide the bread cubes evenly among four plates. Spoon the tabbouleh mixture evenly over the bread cubes. Drizzle with additional olive oil, if desired. Serve immediately.

FLAVOR SECRETS

You can use pre-ground cardamom, but freshly ground cardamom is heavenly. Place the green cardamom pods in a mortar. Smash the pods with the pestle. As you smash them, the seeds will fall out and you can discard the husks. Grind the seeds to a powder.

Persian Beef/Eggplant Stew (Gheimeh Bademjan)

This Persian delight features a tantalizing sauce created from a chicken stock base. The lentils are cooked in a rich tomato broth and the meat is actually a garnish—not a centerpiece.

SERVES 4

6 ounces yellow lentils (chana dal) or regular lentils

1 pound beef stew meat

2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more for seasoning

Freshly ground black pepper

1 pound Japanese eggplants

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 yellow onion, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 cup tomato puree

4 cups chicken stock

1 | Soak the lentils overnight and then drain them, or cook the lentils according to the package instructions, drain, and set aside.

2 | Cut the beef into ½-inch cubes. Pat the beef dry with a paper towel and season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

3 | Cut the eggplants into 1-inch cubes and set aside.

4 | In a large low-sided pot over high heat, add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. When hot add the beef. Sauté the beef until it is golden on both sides. Remove from the pot and set aside on a plate.

5 | To the same pot, add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Add the eggplants and cook until golden on all sides, stirring frequently. Remove from the pot and add them to the plate with the beef.

6 | Add the onions and turmeric to the pot and lower the heat to medium. Cook until the onions are soft and golden. Add the beef, eggplants, lentils, tomato puree, and chicken stock. Bring to a boil, then turn the heat to low, cover, and cook for about 1 hour. Add the 2 teaspoons salt, stir, and taste the stew and the meat. Make sure the meat is tender and the lentils are soft. If they’re not, cook longer for desired doneness.

7 | Serve immediately, either alone or with traditional Crispy Persian Rice.

FLAVOR SECRETS

In the Middle East and other parts of the world, meat is often used as a condiment rather than as a main course. You get protein and rich flavor in a more healthy, savory, and economical way.

HARISSA AND GREEN ONION CHICKEN SALAD SANDWICHES

In North Africa, harissa is as popular as ketchup is here in the States, and for good reason. It instantly lends spice-laden, fire-roasted flavor to meat, as showcased in this recipe, where the chicken is poached (a healthy, if not mouthwatering, way to cook poultry). For more flavor, sauté or roast the chicken instead.

SERVES 4

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

1 tablespoon harissa

2 green onions, roughly chopped

3 tablespoons chopped roasted red bell pepper

1¼ teaspoons kosher salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

12 ounces skinless, boneless chicken breasts or thighs

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 tablespoons fresh mint, roughly chopped

1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic

4 sandwich rolls

1 | In a bowl, mix together the mayonnaise, harissa, green onions, bell pepper, ¼ teaspoon of the salt, and the black pepper and set aside.

2 | Fill a medium pot with enough water to cover the chicken by 2 inches. Add the remaining 1 teaspoon salt to the water. Bring to a boil, then turn down the heat to just below a simmer. Place the chicken in the water, making sure the water does not boil so that the chicken stays tender. Once the chicken reaches an internal temperature of 150°F or is firm and white in the center (not pink), remove from the pot and set on a plate to cool.

3 | Once the chicken is cool, shred it using two forks and add it to the bowl with the harissa mayonnaise.

4 | In a small sauté pan set over medium heat, add the olive oil. Add the mint and garlic and cook for about 30 seconds, just until you smell the garlic and the mint softens. You don’t want the garlic to get dark or it will be too strong. Using a rubber spatula, transfer the garlic and mint mixture to the bowl with the chicken. Mix well to incorporate all the ingredients.

5 | Split open the sandwich rolls and scoop out some of the bread. Set aside for another use. Fill the rolls with the chicken salad mixture and enjoy!

HARISSA STEAK SANDWICHES

I made this killer sandwich on the finale of The Next Food Network Star. Fresh mint is a natural foil for harissa’s heat, and the buttery sweetness of caramelized onions amps up its flavor. In this recipe (which can easily be halved) you can use watercress in place of arugula to kick this up a notch, or substitute spinach if you want less spice.

SERVES 4

One 10- to 12-ounce New York strip steak or steak of your choice (1 inch thick)

¾ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for seasoning

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons harissa

Canola oil

1 tablespoon olive oil

¼ cup red onions, thinly sliced

¼ cup roughly chopped fresh mint

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

¼ cup coarsely chopped sun-dried tomatoes

½ cup mayonnaise

4 sandwich rolls

1 medium yellow tomato, sliced into ¼-inch slices

2 cups arugula, washed and spun dry

1 | Season the steak with the salt and pepper. Rub ½ tablespoon harissa on each side of the steak.

2 | Rub a grill with canola oil and turn the grill to medium-high. Grill the steak for about 3 minutes. Flip it over and cook for another 3 minutes. This will yield a medium-rare steak, depending on the thickness of the meat. Adjust the timing for the desired doneness and the thickness of the steak. Set aside for at least 10 minutes to allow the juices to reabsorb.

3 | In a small sauté pan over medium heat, add the olive oil. Once the oil is hot, add the onions, mint, and garlic. Cook for 30 seconds, just until you can smell the perfume of the garlic and the onions and mint start to soften. (If the mint and garlic brown, they yield a less subtle, toasted flavor.) Add the sun-dried tomatoes and a pinch of salt. Turn off the heat and stir. Remove the mixture to a medium bowl. Extract the onions to a plate.

4 | Stir the mayonnaise into the sun-dried tomato mixture. Stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon harissa and mix well.

5 | Grill or toast the rolls, if you like. Spread the flavored mayonnaise on both sides of the rolls. Slice the steak at a 45-degree angle into ⅓-inch-thick slices and lay them across the rolls. Top with reserved onions, the sliced yellow tomatoes, and the arugula. Serve immediately.

SUMAC-GRILLED SALMON WITH THYME, TOASTED SESAME SEEDS, AND LEMON

The bright citrus of lemon heightens the herbal flavors of sumac and the peanut-buttery richness of the sesame seeds in this savory Middle Eastern dish. Great with vegetables, over rice, or in a pita bread.

SERVES 4

1 teaspoon ground sumac

1½ teaspoons dried thyme

1½ teaspoons kosher salt

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons olive oil

One 1½-pound salmon fillet, skin removed

1 tablespoon sesame seeds

1 cup sliced tomatoes (⅓-inch slices)

1 cup thinly sliced yellow onions

Canola oil

1 lemon, quartered

1 | In a small bowl, mix together the sumac, 1 teaspoon of the thyme, 1 teaspoon of the salt, and 2 teaspoons of the olive oil. Rub all over the salmon and let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes to 1 hour.

2 | In a small pan over medium heat, toss and cook the sesame seeds until golden. Pour into a bowl and set aside.

3 | In a medium skillet over medium heat, add the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Once the oil is hot, add the tomatoes, onions, the remaining ½ teaspoon thyme, and the remaining ½ teaspoon salt. Toss and cook until golden, about 5 minutes. Set aside.

4 | Rub a grill with canola oil and turn the grill to medium-high. (If cooking indoors, move a rack to the top of the oven—about 4 inches from the heat—and turn the broiler to low.) Place the salmon on the grill, flesh side down. (Do not touch until it has cooked. This will allow it to sear and not stick.) Once well marked on the grill, rotate the salmon a one-third turn on the same side. This will give you X marks on the salmon. Flip the salmon over and cook until it is medium-rare, about 3 minutes, or to desired doneness. Slide a spatula under the fish to the center. Push the handle down to separate the fish on top. You’ll be able to see if the center is pink or medium-rare.

5 | Spread the tomato-onion mixture on a platter. Set the salmon on top and garnish with the toasted sesame seeds and lemon. Enjoy.

BEEF KEBABS WITH SUMAC AND ROASTED TOMATO RICE

I learned about sumac from my mother-in-law, who introduced me to it in a shaker on the table of a Persian restaurant. Although this berry-saturated spice is a natural flavoring for meat, vegetables are an incredible substitute. Simply swap out the cubed steak for cauliflower or zucchini for an equally savory delight. These kebabs go great with Sumac and Toasted Oregano Cucumber Yogurt Dip.

SERVES 4

2 cups basmati rice

3 cups water

2½ teaspoons kosher salt, plus more for seasoning

4 tablespoons olive oil

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 large red onion

1 large red bell pepper

1 large pasilla chile or green bell pepper

16 brown mushrooms

1 teaspoon dried thyme

2 tablespoons sesame oil

One 1½-pound rib-eye steak or beef of your choice, cut into 1½-inch cubes

Canola oil

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more for seasoning

2 cups cherry tomatoes

½ teaspoon ground sumac

2 tablespoons fresh flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped

1 | Rinse the rice with cold water, then place it in a medium pot. Add the water, 2 teaspoons of the salt, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, and the turmeric. Place the pot over high heat and bring to a boil. Cover and turn down the heat to low. Cook until tender, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside until ready to eat.

2 | While the rice is cooking (or the night before using), prepare the marinade. Peel the red onion and pull apart the layers. Cut into roughly 1-inch-thick slices and place in a large bowl. Cut the red bell pepper and pasilla chile in half and then roughly chop into 1-inch-thick slices. Add to the bowl with the red onions. Rinse the mushrooms and pat dry. Cut off and discard the thickest part of the stems. Add the mushrooms to the onions, bell peppers, and chile. Add the thyme, sesame oil, and 1 tablespoon of the remaining olive oil and mix well.

3 | Pat the meat dry with a paper towel, then place in the bowl with the marinade. Use your hands to thoroughly coat the meat evenly.

4 | Using 4 large metal skewers, or 12 smaller wooden skewers soaked in water for 30 minutes (to prevent burning), alternately slide the meat and marinated vegetables onto each skewer. Be sure to leave a small space between the items so that everything cooks evenly.

5 | Rub the grill with canola oil and turn the grill to medium-high. (If cooking indoors, move a rack to the top of the oven—about 4 inches from the heat—and turn the broiler to low.) Let heat while seasoning the skewers.

6 | Season the skewers with salt and black pepper (don’t be shy). Place the skewers on the grill or under the broiler and cook, rotating the skewers every few minutes until the meat is cooked to the desired doneness, about 8 minutes total for medium-rare.

7 | Heat the oven to 400°F. (Be sure the kebabs are cooked thoroughly and removed if using the same oven to broil the skewers, too.)

8 | Toss together the cherry tomatoes, the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, the sumac, the remaining ½ teaspoon salt, and the black pepper in a baking dish. Place in the oven and roast until the tomatoes are golden but before they burst, about 15 minutes. Set aside.

9 | Divide the rice among serving plates. Scatter the roasted tomatoes across the rice. Place the kebabs on top. Garnish with the chopped parsley and serve.

Sumac and Toasted Oregano Cucumber Yogurt Dip

Peel 2 cucumbers and cut each into 4 long strips. Cut each strip into ½-inch cubes and place in a large bowl. Add 2 teaspoons ground sumac and 2 teaspoons kosher salt and stir to mix well. Allow the cucumbers to sit at room temperature for 15 minutes.

In a dry skillet over medium heat, add 4 teaspoons sesame seeds and 2 teaspoons dried thyme. Toast until the sesame seeds are golden and you can smell the thyme, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and add to the cucumbers. Add 1 tablespoon olive oil and 2 teaspoons roughly chopped fresh mint, and stir. Let sit for another 5 minutes. Stir in 2 cups plain whole-milk yogurt and serve immediately.(Makes 3 cups)

SUMAC-SPICED KIBBEE

My sittee used to make kibbee all the time when I was kid. Though she made hers in a large baking dish about two inches deep and cut the kibbee into diamond shapes, here I use muffin cups because it’s super practical. The bulgur soaks up the savory liquid, adding texture and flavor without dominating the dish. (Thank you for the inspiration, Sittee!)

SERVES 4

½ cup bulgur

⅓ cup plus ½ cup pine nuts

2 medium leeks

4 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon unsalted butter

1 teaspoon cumin seed, ground

2½ teaspoons sumac, ground

1½ teaspoons white pepper, ground

3¼ teaspoons kosher salt

¾ pound ground lamb

¾ pound ground beef (15% fat)

⅓ cup finely chopped shallots

¼ teaspoon ground allspice

2 teaspoons dried thyme

1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint

1 cup plain yogurt

1 | Rinse the bulgur, place in a pot and cover with 2 inches of cold water, and let sit until soft but still with texture, about 1 hour. Drain and squeeze out any excess moisture.

2 | In a dry pan set over medium heat, toast ⅓ cup of the pine nuts until golden, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, transfer to a small bowl, and set aside. Roughly chop the remaining ½ cup pine nuts and set aside.

3 | Cut the leeks in half and rinse under cold water. Lift out and remove the hard core. Discard the core, along with the dark green parts of the leeks. Chop the remaining white leek very finely. You should have 1 cup of finely chopped leeks.

4 | In a small skillet over medium heat, add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and the butter. Once they are hot, add ½ cup of the chopped leeks, ½ teaspoon of the cumin, 1½ teaspoons of the sumac, ½ teaspoon of the white pepper, and 1½ teaspoons of the salt. Cook until the leeks are soft and barely golden. You don’t want crispy leeks. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

5 | In a bowl, mix together ¼ pound of the ground lamb, ¼ pound of the ground beef, and the cooled cooked leeks. Set aside. This is your pressed meat filling.

6 | In a medium skillet over medium heat, add 1 tablespoon of the remaining olive oil. Once the oil is hot, add the remaining ½ cup chopped leeks, ½ teaspoon cumin, 1 teaspoon sumac, 1 teaspoon white pepper, 1½ teaspoons of the remaining salt, the shallots, and the allspice. Cook until the leeks and shallots are soft but not colored. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

7 | In a bowl, mix together the remaining ½ pound ground lamb, remaining ½ pound ground beef, bulgur, and leek-shallot mixture. This is your bulgur-meat base.

8 | Heat the oven to 400°F. Have ready a 12-cup nonstick muffin tin. You will use 10 cups; 2 cups will be empty.

9 | Divide the pressed meat base in half. Use half to create a bottom layer in each of 10 muffin cups, pressing down gently. Sprinkle the toasted pine nuts in a single layer in each muffin cup. Then put in the bulgur-meat filling and distribute it evenly, without pressing down, creating a crumbly beef center. Use your hands to press together the remaining half of the pressed meat base. Break off a piece and place it on the top of each of the 10 muffin cups.

10 | Using a butter knife, make a ¼-inch-deep X incision on the top of each cup. This will allow the garnish and oil to collect and get golden while the kibbee bake. Sprinkle the tops with the chopped pine nuts and the thyme. Drizzle with 1 more tablespoon of the remaining olive oil.

11 | Place the muffin tin on the center rack of the oven and bake for about 12 minutes, or until the center reads 125°F on a meat thermometer. Remove from the oven and let sit for 15 minutes.

12 | Meanwhile, in a small skillet set over medium heat, add the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Once the oil is hot, add the garlic and mint and cook for 30 seconds. Remove from the heat and transfer to a bowl. Mix in the yogurt and the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt. Spoon the sauce on top of the individual kibbees or serve on the side for dipping with anything you like. Serve immediately.

FLAVOR SECRETS

Freshly ground meat is always far more flavorful than prepackaged meat. Ask the butcher at your local supermarket or butcher shop to grind it for you.