Jeffrey Saad’s Global Kitchen: Recipes Without Borders

The flavors of Italy are bright and full of life, just like Italians. And they’re as much about the woody aromatics of herbs as they are about seeds and spices. Herbs create a fresh green flavor contrast to the rich, tomato-and-cheesy heft of Italian cuisine.

My wife and culinary cohort, Nadia, was raised in Rome, and she’s brought to life for me both the simple and the seductive nature of Italian cuisine. On a trip to her hometown she introduced me to the sandwich she grew up on—sweet-and-salty, cave-aged prosciutto and creamy mozzarella between pillow-soft layers of white bread—and together we wolfed down slices of square pizza off sheet pans in tiny hole-in-the-wall shops. There was nothing we didn’t eat in this land that brought us fusilli and farfalle, lasagna and linguine, bowties and bucatini, macaroni and manicotti, ravioli and rigatoni—to name just a few.

Italy is a culinary mecca so enticing that, after opening my Sweet Heat restaurants in San Francisco, I turned my culinary compass around and joined the team of Pasta Pomodoro. Working with the incomparable Adriano Paganini, I helped bring more of Italy’s most delicious comfort food to America.

These dishes are but a small sampling of big, Italian-inspired delights—with international twists. Buon appetito!

BASIL—and herbs in general—is the cornerstone of Italian cuisine. There is no Caprese salad or pesto without it. It is the tomato’s best friend and brings its refreshing, almost aniselike warmth to countless dishes. Basil should always be used fresh. Comparatively speaking, dried basil is like eating paper.

CHILE FLAKES (widely known as crushed red pepper flakes) are gorgeous miniature flecks of pure heat, usually made from dried chiles de árbol. Adding chile flakes to the nutty, mouthwatering tang of, say, Parmesan cheese is all you need to get awesome flavor contrast and lovely, decorative bursts of red.

FENNEL SEEDS have the same licorice snap of its sister, the anise seed, but it is notably more subtle. Fennel seed is responsible for the mouth-puckering taste in Italian salamis and is one of the main components of the once-popular liquor called absinthe. Add fennel seed to meat and vegetable dishes for an unmistakably European flavor.

OREGANO is an exceptional herb with a slightly bitter flavor. It can be more potent when dried than when fresh. Oregano finds its way all around the Mediterranean, from Italy to Greece and beyond.

ROSEMARY can be used fresh or dried, but its deep floral flavor is most potent when used fresh. But be careful: This pungent herb can ruin a dish and make it taste like bitter medicine if you use too much of it. Like thyme, you can strip the leaves from the stems, or like a bay leaf, use the whole sprig to flavor your food (just remember to remove them before serving). Rosemary is great with almost everything: lamb, chicken, and pork dishes, as well as vegetables, pastas, and breads.

SAGE has a stronger flavor profile than other herbs, so it’s best used sparingly. It can be used fresh or dried and adds another slightly bitter, woody layer of taste to cheese, vegetable dishes, and grilled meats. It’s also an essential element in flavoring foods like butternut squash and stuffings of all sorts.

CLASSIC TOMATO-BASIL BRUSCHETTA

This beautiful classic represents everything simple and wonderful about Italian cooking. Everyone loves bruschetta. It’s easy to make and highlights the freshness and pure flavors of its toppings. Try to get lusciously sweet ripe tomatoes, bright basil, fresh garlic, and the best olive oil you can afford.

SERVES 8

4 cups cubed tomatoes (½-inch cubes)

½ cup fresh basil

2 teaspoons finely minced garlic

1 teaspoon kosher salt

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

1 loaf rustic Italian bread, cut into 8 slices

1 | Place the tomatoes in a wide bowl to allow even marinating. On a cutting board, lay the basil leaves on top of one another in a stack. Fold the stack in half and cut the basil into thin ribbons. Cut the piles of ribbons in half. This will give you nice strands of green basil. (Overchopping basil will turn it black.) Add the basil to the bowl along with the garlic, salt, and olive oil, and mix together. (Make sure the garlic is very finely minced so it blends in and flavors the tomatoes. If the mince is too large, the garlic is “hot” and overwhelming.) Let the mixture sit for 20 minutes at room temperature.

2 | Grill the bread in a grill press or toast it under the broiler. Place the bread on a platter and top with heaping tablespoonfuls of the tomato mixture. (Rustic bread has large pores and a thick, chewy crust that holds up well to the tomato mixture.)

BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND ROASTED BRUSSELS SPROUTS RISOTTO

Making risotto requires care but is worth every minute of attention. Essentially, it involves a series of reductions—precisely measured portions of stock boiled down to concentrate the flavor into the rice, creating a thick, creamy consistency. Use a low-sodium or homemade chicken stock so it doesn’t get too salty as it reduces. This savory pillow of al dente risotto enriches the flavor of the sweet butternut squash. (It’s important to cut the squash into small enough pieces that it gets tender and golden. If the cubes are too big, they will still be hard inside, even when golden on the outside.)

SERVES 4

2 cups water

6 cups low-sodium or homemade chicken stock

3½ tablespoons olive oil

½ cup chopped butternut squash (½-inch cubes)

½ cup trimmed and finely sliced Brussels sprouts

1 teaspoon unsalted butter

1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh sage

¼ teaspoon ground allspice

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon sugar

⅓ cup arborio rice

1 cup finely chopped shallots

1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic

⅓ cup dry white wine

¼ cup shredded Parmesan cheese

1 | You will need three pans for this recipe: a large sauté pan for the roasted vegetables, a medium sauté pan for the risotto, and a medium saucepot for the simmering stock and water.

2 | In a medium saucepot, add the water and chicken stock and bring to just under a simmer.

3 | In a large sauté pan over medium heat, add 1½ tablespoons of the olive oil. Once the oil is hot, add the butternut squash and Brussels sprouts. Stir occasionally until evenly golden. Add the butter, sage, allspice, salt, and sugar. Stir and cook for 1 more minute, then turn off the heat. Set aside while you make the rice.

4 | In a medium sauté pan over high heat, add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Once the oil is hot, add the rice, shallots, and garlic. Stir continuously until the rice starts to look clear on the edges, about 30 seconds. Add the white wine and stir continuously until absorbed. Add the hot water and chicken stock a ladleful at a time, stirring continuously until each addition is absorbed. After 5 ladlesful of stock have been absorbed, start tasting the rice. You want it to be al dente. Continue adding stock and stirring. Make sure the rice stays at a light boil as you stir. Adjust the finished risotto so that it flows nicely on the plate. If it is too thin, you may have to boil the rice for a moment longer or add another ladleful of stock if too thick. Keep in mind that the risotto will thicken as it cools on the plate.

5 | Once the rice is al dente, add a touch more stock so that the rice moves side to side like a slow-moving wave—not solid but not saucy. Stir in the roasted squash and Brussels sprouts. Spoon the risotto onto plates and top with the Parmesan. Enjoy.

FLAVOR SECRETS

Allspice is exactly that—one spice that tastes like all of the great baking spices rolled into one. The sweetness of cinnamon, the earthy holiday spice of nutmeg, the boldness of cloves, and a little black pepper heat. Although typically a baking spice, it’s great in savory dishes as well.

WHITE BEAN SOUP WITH ROSEMARY PESTO

This easy, classic soup is smooth and creamy, with the flavor burst of pesto. You can puree it and add more beans for a chunkier soup or eat it as is. This is a healthy, hearty meal unto itself.

SERVES 4

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic

¼ cup roughly chopped carrots

¼ cup roughly chopped celery

1 cup thinly sliced yellow onions

2 cups chicken stock

One 15-ounce can Bush’s Best cannellini beans, rinsed and drained

1 teaspoon kosher salt

PESTO

2 tablespoons fresh rosemary, finely chopped

1 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley

½ cup olive oil

½ teaspoon kosher salt

½ teaspoon ground white pepper

1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

1 | In a medium pot over medium heat, add the olive oil, garlic, carrots, celery, and onions. Cook, stirring occasionally, until deep golden, about 15 minutes. Add the chicken stock, cannellini, and salt. Bring to a boil. Turn down the heat to low, cover, and cook for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool.

2 | Transfer the slightly cooled soup to a blender and puree until smooth. (Put a towel over the top of the blender to protect against splattering.) Set aside.

3 | To prepare the pesto, combine the rosemary, parsley, olive oil, salt, pepper, garlic, and Parmesan in a food processor. Pulse-chop until you have a coarse puree.

4 | Ladle the soup into bowls and spoon a few dollops of pesto on top. Serve.

GORGONZOLA, CARAMELIZED PEAR, AND GOAT CHEESE SANDWICH

Gorgonzola is the milder blue cheese cousin of the strong French blue cheese. It is also creamy and richer. It melts into a thick sauce on this grilled cheese sandwich and creates a fantastic flavor contrast with the sweet caramelized pears. While I recommend butter pears (a great texture for this dish), any ripe pear will do—just err on the side of slightly harder pears versus overly ripe ones, so they don’t end up mushy after cooking. A loaf of brioche or a handmade loaf of white bread works best for this recipe, but regular sliced sandwich bread is fine if that’s your only option.

SERVES 3

2 pears, such as butter pears

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 teaspoon olive oil

½ cup sauvignon blanc

½ teaspoon kosher salt

6 ounces creamy Gorgonzola, at room temperature

Six ½-inch-thick slices white bread

1 cup arugula, plus more for garnish, if desired

1 | Wash the pears and slice them ¼ inch thick.

2 | In a large sauté pan over medium heat, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter with the olive oil. Add the pear slices and sauté to golden, about 5 minutes. Manage the heat so the pears become evenly golden but not too soft. If the heat is too high, they won’t get evenly golden. If the heat is too low, they’ll become mushy before they are golden.

3 | Add the white wine and salt and simmer until the liquid is mostly evaporated. Let the wine reduce until it looks like a saucy glaze on the pears. Remember, it will thicken a little when it cools, so allow a little liquid to remain when you stop the cooking. Use a rubber spatula to remove the pears and sauce from the pan. Set aside to cool.

4 | Place the Gorgonzola evenly in little clumps on each of 3 slices of the bread; it can be hard to spread. Lay the pear slices on top of the cheese, and the arugula on top of the pears. Place 1 slice of bread on top of each sandwich and push down to flatten a little.

5 | On a griddle or in a nonstick pan, melt another 1 tablespoon of the remaining butter over medium heat. Lay the sandwiches in the pan and rub them in the butter. Cook until golden. When the sandwiches are golden, add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter to the pan. Flip the sandwiches over and rub them in the butter to evenly coat. Cook until the second side is golden and the cheese is soft.

6 | Slice the sandwiches in triangles and serve on a platter with more arugula (shredded, if preferred) on top as a garnish.

FARFALLE WITH BLACK OLIVES, SHAVED PECORINO, AND LEMON

The shape of farfalle is not just for looks—farfalle’s flat “butterfly wings” hold the pieces of black olive and pecorino perfectly in this recipe. One simple squeeze of lemon juice is a flavor boost to many dishes. Here, it heightens the cured flavor of the olives and the saltiness of the pecorino (dry sheep’s milk cheese). Taste the sauce before and after you add the lemon to see the difference for yourself. And because the olive oil is your sauce here, be sure to use a good one with lots of sharp, green flavor.

SERVES 4 TO 6

One 1-pound box farfalle or pasta of your choice

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

½ cup oil-cured black olives, pitted and chopped in half

2 tablespoons finely chopped garlic

1⁄8 teaspoon chile flakes

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary

5 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

¼ cup heavy cream

¾ cup shaved pecorino cheese

3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 | Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Once the water is boiling, add enough salt to make the water a little salty, about ¼ cup. This helps bring out the full flavor of the pasta. Add the farfalle to the boiling water. While the pasta is boiling, make the sauce.

2 | In a large skillet over medium heat, add the olive oil. Once the oil is hot, add the olives, garlic, chile flakes, and rosemary and cook just until the garlic and rosemary become fragrant. Add the lemon juice and simmer for 30 seconds. Stir in the cream and simmer for 1 minute, then remove from the heat.

3 | Turn off the heat if the pasta is not al dente (still firm in the middle; don’t be afraid to taste a piece instead of relying on a timer). As soon as it is ready, drain the pasta (but never rinse; another secret). Save a touch of the cooking water.

4 | Place the pasta in the skillet of sauce on the stove top and turn the heat to medium-high. Stir to coat evenly. Boil the pasta in the sauce for 1 minute, adding the reserved pasta water if it is too dry. This allows the pasta to absorb the sauce. This sauce is meant to coat the pasta lightly but not be overly saucy. Don’t worry that you don’t have enough sauce. You do. :)

5 | Place the pasta on serving plates and top with the pecorino and parsley. Serve immediately.

FLAVOR SECRETS

Making perfect pasta is easy. Add salt—but not oil—to your water. (Salt pulls out the flavor of your pasta; oil simply coats it and keeps flavors from sticking to it.) Use 1 gallon of water or three times the amount of pasta you have. Make sure the water is boiling rapidly. After dropping the pasta into the water, stir the pasta a couple of times while it cooks. Drain when al dente (and don’t be afraid to taste a piece or two to be sure it’s right).

OPEN-FACE LASAGNA WITH MOREL MUSHROOMS AND ASPARAGUS

In this recipe, which is quicker to prepare than traditional lasagna, you get the rich, sweet goodness of tomatoes, the heat of chile, and the earthy vegetable heft of mushrooms and asparagus—a beautiful medley of flavor contrasts.

SERVES 4

1½ pounds wild or morel mushrooms, or mushrooms of your choice

¼ cup olive oil, plus more for drizzling

½ teaspoon kosher salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Pinch of chile flakes

½ cup shallots, finely chopped

16 asparagus spears, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces

1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic

1 cup dry white wine

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

4 lasagna sheets

12 ounces Taleggio or triple cream cow’s milk cheese of your choice

2 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated, plus more for garnish

½ cup fresh basil, shredded

1 | Rinse off the mushrooms and pat dry. Cut off the thickest part of the stems and discard. Cut the mushrooms into 1-inch pieces, roughly halves or quarters, depending on the size of the mushrooms.

2 | In a large, wide skillet over medium-high heat, add the olive oil. Once the oil is hot, add the mushrooms, salt, pepper, and chile flakes. Stir to coat the mushrooms evenly with the olive oil. Sauté until the mushrooms become golden, 12 to 15 minutes. Add the shallots and asparagus, stir, and cook until the mushrooms are deep golden and the asparagus is tender but firm, about 8 more minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook for 30 seconds more, just to bring out the flavor of the garlic but not to brown it.

3 | Add the white wine and simmer until reduced by half. Turn off the heat and set aside. Stir in the butter until melted and fully incorporated.

4 | While the mushrooms are cooking, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Once the water is boiling, cook the lasagna according to the package instructions. Once the pasta is cooked to al dente, pull it out of the water and drain (do not rinse). Rub with a touch of olive oil to prevent sticking and set 1 sheet of pasta on each of four plates.

5 | Divide the Taleggio and Parmesan evenly across the pasta. Spoon the mushroom-asparagus mixture over the cheeses. The heat will partially melt the cheeses. Shower the basil on top of each plate. Drizzle a touch of extra virgin olive oil and a touch more Parmesan over each. Serve.

FUSILLI WITH FENNEL SEED–OREGANO CHICKEN, MUSHROOMS, AND CREAM SAUCE

I have many delicious memories of mushrooms in cream sauce—the base for so many of my mom’s dishes. Freshly ground fennel seed is the key to this dish, giving it a bright, almost citrusy note that is further enhanced by the oregano. It’s important to have your mushrooms, shallots, and garlic ready to add to these herbs at the right time, so that you don’t burn the fennel seeds and bits in the pan. This is creamy comfort food at its best.

SERVES 4

¼ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for seasoning

One 8-ounce skinless, boneless chicken breast (or chicken thighs for more tender meat)

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more for seasoning

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 teaspoon fennel seed, roughly ground

1 tablespoon fresh oregano, finely chopped

¾ box (12 ounces) fusilli or pasta of your choice

2 cups thinly sliced mushrooms

½ cup shallots, finely chopped

1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic

½ cup heavy cream

1½ cups chicken stock

6 sun-dried tomatoes, cut into thirds

4 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

3 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 | Bring a large pot of water to a boil with enough salt so you can taste it, about ¼ cup.

2 | Cut the chicken into ½-inch slices and then cut the slices in half. Pat dry with a paper towel and season with salt and pepper.

3 | In a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, add the olive oil. Once the oil is hot, add the chicken and cook until golden, about 3 minutes. Add the fennel seed and oregano and stir. When the fennel and oregano are toasted (you will smell it after about 2 minutes), remove from the heat. Remove the chicken from the pan and set aside. (The chicken will not be fully cooked at this point. It will finish cooking in the sauce later.)

4 | Add the fusilli to the boiling water and cook according to the package instructions.

5 | While the pasta is cooking, add the mushrooms, shallots, and garlic to the pan with the fennel and oregano. Turn to medium heat and scrape the bottom of the pan as you stir. Cook until deep golden and soft, about 10 minutes. Manage the heat and be ready to turn it down if necessary. The goal is to layer and build the flavor of the ingredients in the bottom of the pan but without burning them.

6 | Add the cream, stir, and cook for 1 minute. Add the chicken stock, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper and simmer until boiled down by about one-third. You want a saucy consistency. You also want enough sauce to evenly coat the pasta without being dry or too wet. Add the reserved chicken and the sun-dried tomatoes. Turn off the heat if pasta is not ready.

7 | When the pasta is al dente, strain, saving ¼ cup of the pasta water, and add the pasta to the pan with the sauce. Simmer for 1 minute while stirring, allowing the pasta to absorb the sauce. If the sauce gets too thick, use some of the reserved pasta water to thin it out. Stir in the Parmesan.

8 | Remove from the heat and serve immediately, garnished with the parsley.

PORK CHOPS WITH CARAMELIZED APPLES AND ARUGULA

In this gourmet version of the classic combination of pork chops and applesauce, fresh apple juice and rosemary create a sweet glaze for the tender chops.

SERVES 2

2 pork chops

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup finely chopped shallots

1 medium green apple, cut into ½-inch cubes

1 garlic clove, chopped

½ cup brandy

1 cup apple juice (ideally fresh)

2 teaspoons fresh rosemary, finely chopped

1 cup chicken stock

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 cups arugula, washed and dried

1 | For maximum juiciness, brine the pork chops for 4 hours if you can (see Flavor Secrets, below). Pat the pork chops dry with a paper towel and season with salt and pepper.

2 | In a sauté pan over medium-high heat, add the olive oil. Heat the oil until it just starts to haze. Add the pork chops and sauté until golden on both sides, about 3 minutes per side. Closely monitor the heat so the pork chops get a deep golden brown but so the bits at the bottom of the pan don’t burn—they are the flavor foundation for your sauce. Remove the pork chops and set aside.

3 | Add the shallots, apples, and garlic to the same pan. Cook for 2 minutes or until golden. Use tongs to scrape the bits off the bottom of the pan. Add the brandy and let boil, reducing the liquid by half. Add the apple juice and rosemary, and boil for 1 minute. Add the chicken stock and boil (reduce) until you have a nice saucy consistency. Add the butter. Turn off the heat and stir just until the butter is melted. Stir in the arugula.

4 | Place each pork chop on a plate. Pour the sauce with the arugula over the top.

FLAVOR SECRETS

To prepare a brine, combine 1 cup water, ¼ cup kosher salt, and ¼ cup brown sugar. Bring to a boil for 1 minute to dissolve the salt and sugar. Remove from the heat and cool. Stir in 3 cups cold water. Submerge the meat in the brine for at least 4 hours.

PENNE BOLOGNESE

If you like meat and pasta, a good Bolognese is an unbeatable combination. It’s the essence of meat, without the knife. This recipe is all about the richness of meat browned over high heat, the layers of aromatic rosemary and thyme, the crispness of white wine, and the finishing touch of nutty, rich Parmesan. Although penne is recommended, feel free to choose the pasta for your mood. A wedge of fresh crusty bread is essential for mopping up the sauce on your plate. And this pairs perfectly with a glass of great Sangiovese, Barbera, or your favorite full-bodied red wine.

SERVES 6

¼ cup olive oil

¼ cup finely chopped garlic

2 cups finely diced yellow onions

½ cup shredded carrots

½ cup finely chopped celery

¾ pound ground beef (15% fat)

¾ pound ground pork

1 tablespoon kosher salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 cups tomato paste

2½ cups whole milk

1 cup dry white wine

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh thyme

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary

One 1-pound box penne

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

⅓ cup grated Parmesan cheese

¼ cup fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

1 | In a large, wide, shallow pot over medium-high heat, add the olive oil. (A large, wide pot is important to develop good color. If the pot is too narrow and deep, everything boils instead of browns.) Add the garlic, onions, carrots, and celery. Cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 10 minutes. Monitor the heat and be careful not to burn the garlic.

2 | Add the ground beef and ground pork and break apart into small pieces. Season with the salt and pepper. Cook over medium-high heat until evenly dark brown, about 40 minutes. Continue to adjust the heat down as the meat browns so that it does not burn on the bottom as the moisture leaves. Stir and scrape the bottom of the pan with a metal spoon every 10 minutes.

3 | Add the tomato paste and stir to combine evenly. Cook until it is a deep, dark reddish brown, about 20 minutes. Keep turning down the heat as needed to avoid burning. Scrape the bottom of the pot often with a metal spoon and stir to incorporate the flavor. Color equals flavor, so make sure you get the meat dark brown and the garlic, onions, carrots, and celery nice and golden. Let the tomato paste get really dark before you add the milk below. When you think it’s ready, wait another 15 minutes. Once you add the milk, the color and flavor will come together perfectly.

4 | Stir in the milk and scrape the bottom to incorporate fully. Cover the pot about 80 percent closed to avoid splattering and prevent too much reduction. Once the mixture comes to a boil, turn down the heat to very low and cook for 15 minutes. It will have a thick, saucy consistency.

5 | Bring a pot of water large enough to hold the pasta to a boil and add ¼ cup kosher salt.

6 | Meanwhile, add the white wine, thyme, and rosemary to the sauce. Stir and allow the sauce to come to a boil. Turn down the heat to very low and cover the pot 80 percent closed. Cook for 15 minutes. (This will concentrate the wine flavor while removing most of the alcohol.)

7 | While the sauce is in the final stage of cooking, add the penne to the boiling water, stir once, and cook according to the package instructions.

8 | When the penne is al dente, drain but keep about 1 cup of the cooking water. Put the penne into the meat sauce and simmer for 1 minute so that the pasta and the sauce become one. If the sauce is too thick, stir in some of the reserved pasta water. Turn off the heat and stir in the butter and Parmesan.

9 | Divide the pasta among six plates and sprinkle with the parsley. Serve immediately.

OSSO BUCCO

Osso bucco is the epitome of great stewed meat. It’s essentially veal shank seared to golden, then bathed in a rich tomato broth and cooked low and slow until if falls off the bone, rich with marrow. (On one of our first dates, I watched my future wife passionately yet with surgical precision remove every last bite of marrow with a wine corkscrew—the woman of my dreams!) Veal shank is not cheap, so make this when you want a special, unforgettable meal, and pair it with creamy polenta, orzo, or saffron risotto. This recipe yields a lot more sauce than you’ll likely serve—the extra works deliciously on top of pasta the next day.

SERVES 4

5 large veal shanks

1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus more for seasoning

Freshly ground black pepper

1 cup all-purpose flour

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 cup finely diced yellow onions

½ cup finely diced celery

½ cup finely diced carrots

2 tablespoons finely chopped garlic

2 cups dry white wine

One 28-ounce can whole plum tomatoes, pureed

3 cups chicken stock

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary

1 tablespoon fresh oregano, finely chopped

GREMOLATA

2 garlic cloves

¼ cup fresh flat-leaf parsley

Zest of 1 lemon

1 | Preheat the oven to 300°F.

2 | Pat the veal shanks dry with a paper towel and season them liberally with salt and pepper. Lay the flour evenly on a plate and coat each shank in flour, shaking off the excess. Place a shallow pot with a tight-fitting, ovenproof lid over medium heat and add the olive oil. Set each shank in the hot olive oil and sauté until golden on both sides, about 4 minutes per side. Make sure the veal is golden brown on both sides before removing it from the initial sauté. That’s where a lot of the flavor develops. Remove from the oil and set aside.

3 | To the same pan, add the butter, onions, celery, carrots, and garlic and sauté over medium heat until golden, about 4 minutes. Add the white wine and simmer until reduced by half. (This removes the alcohol and concentrates the flavor of the wine.)

4 | Add the pureed tomatoes, chicken stock, 1 tablespoon kosher salt, rosemary, and oregano and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and add the veal shanks to the sauce. Cover the pan tightly and bake in the oven for 3½ hours, or until the meat is falling off the bone. Carefully remove the meat (keeping it intact on the bone) and set aside.

5 | Place the pot with the sauce on the stove over medium heat and let the sauce boil, reducing it to a light sauce consistency—not thick but not watery. You will have more sauce than you need, but it is necessary to properly cook the veal.

6 | While the sauce is reducing, prepare the gremolata. Mix the garlic, parsley, and lemon zest on a cutting board and chop finely.

7 | Divide the veal among serving plates and spoon the sauce on top. Sprinkle with the gremolata and serve.

FLAVOR SECRETS

A classic Italian finishing condiment, gremolata is a mixture of lemon zest, parsley, and garlic. The moment it hits the hot osso bucco, it releases a perfume of citrus, fresh herbs, and the mild heat of the garlic. Gremolata adds lightness and brightness to hearty stewed meat and can wake up a simple piece of leftover chicken. A tiny touch creates a huge burst of flavor.