SERVES 2 TO 3 AS A LUNCHEON MAIN COURSE, 4 TO 6 AS PART OF A MULTICOURSE MEAL
If you think of calamari as a pile of rubbery curlicues, looming sea creature-like on a plate ready to attack, think again! Here is a perfectly delectable salad of tender calamari rings laced with a spicy vinaigrette. The choice of small squid will change forever your calamari nightmares.
Blanching squid for only seconds and then plunging it into an ice water bath turns it silky with a near-crispy edge. The timing must be just right—just long enough for the rings to turn opaque (indicating that they’re cooked), yet not so long that the edges curl (putting them on the road to rubberiness).
1½ pounds small squid (4 to 5 inches long and 1 inch wide), cleaned, tentacles reserved, and bodies cut crosswise into ½-inch rings (see How to Clean Squid, page 242)
2 serrano chilis, tipped and halved lengthwise
1½ teaspoons finely minced garlic
1 tablespoon finely minced fresh ginger
½ cup China Moon Pickled Ginger (page 8)
1½ teaspoons “goop” from China Moon Hot Chili Oil (page 10)
⅔ cup packed coriander leaves and stems
3 tablespoons juice from China Moon Pickled Ginger
2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
2½ teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
¾ cup corn or peanut oil
2 cups loosely packed baby mizuna, baby red mustard, and/or tender sprigs of watercress or curly cress
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 small red bell pepper, finely diced
½ small red onion, finely diced
¾ teaspoon finely minced Chinese black beans (do not rinse them)
1. To cook the squid, separate the tentacles, if larger than the rings, and cook them separately. Bring a medium-sized pot of water to a rolling boil. Using a Chinese mesh spoon or a wire basket that fits the pot, lower the squid into the water. Blanch just until opaque, about 6 seconds at most, and then drain and plunge immediately into ice water to stop the cooking. Drain and set aside. Repeat the process with any large tentacles, blanching until they curl, 8 to 10 seconds. Refrigerate the squid until ready to use, overnight if desired. Drain off any juice that might be released during storage.
2. To make the vinaigrette, in a food processor, combine the chilis, garlic, ginger, pickled ginger, “goop,” and coriander (only if using the vinaigrette right away), and blend until smooth. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula. With the machine running, add the ginger juice, vinegar, sugar, and ¾ teaspoon of the salt. Add the oil in a slow stream and process until emulsified. The vinaigrette may be made a full day ahead. Seal with a piece of plastic wrap pressed directly on the surface and refrigerate. To retain its color, buzz in the coriander shortly before using.
3. Just before serving, dress the greens lightly with a bit of the vinaigrette. Arrange the greens around the outer edge of small individual plates or a large platter.
4. Toss the squid in a bowl with the lemon juice and the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt. Let stand for 2 minutes. Add the bell pepper and onion, and toss to combine. Add enough of the vinaigrette to thoroughly coat the ingredients and toss well to mix. Taste and adjust, if needed, with a shot more lemon juice and/or salt. The flavors should be zingy.
5. Mound the squid in the middle of the greens and sprinkle with the minced black beans.
MENU SUGGESTIONS: This is a lively luncheon salad all on its own. If served as an appetizer, it might be followed by something earthy and gutsy like Hot and Sour Chicken Sandpot (page 148).
