SPICY TANGERINE BEEF (OR LAMB) WITH GLASS NOODLES

SERVES 2 AS A MAIN COURSE, 4 AS PART OF A MULTICOURSE MEAL

A very simple stir-fry with appealing nubbly and slithery textures, this is a light and tangy dish. It is also one of those great examples of Chinese cooking magic, whereby a half pound of minced meat becomes a quick and delectable meal for several people.

When blood oranges are in season, use them for their provocative taste and color. Pomegranate seeds are also wonderful, some tossed in during the last minute of cooking and a few more sprinkled on top.

image

MARINADE AND MEAT:

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons Chinese rice wine or dry sherry

1 teaspoon cornstarch

1 teaspoon “goop” from China Moon Chili-Orange Oil (page 15)

½ pound ground beef round or lamb shoulder

AROMATICS:

1 tablespoon finely minced garlic

1½ teaspoons finely minced fresh ginger

½ cup thinly sliced green and white scallion rings

2 teaspoons Chinese chili sauce

2 to 3 teaspoons finely minced fresh tangerine or orange zest

SAUCE:

¼ cup China Moon Infusion (page 72), China Moon Double Stock (page 72), or unsalted chicken stock

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed tangerine or orange juice

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon Serrano-Lemongrass Vinegar (page 19) or unseasoned Japanese rice vinegar

1 small package (1.75 to 2 ounces) PRC glass noodles

2 tablespoons corn or peanut oil, for stir-frying

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped coriander leaves and stems

Sprigs of coriander or watercress, for garnish

image

1. Whisk together the marinade ingredients through the “goop” in a large bowl. Add the meat and stir in one direction until well blended. Seal with plastic wrap and set aside to marinate for 1 to 2 hours at cool room temperature, or refrigerate overnight. Bring to room temperature before cooking.

2. Combine the aromatics in a small dish and seal airtight until ready to use.

3. Combine the sauce ingredients through the vinegar in a small bowl. Stir to blend, leaving the spoon in the bowl.

4. Without cutting the strings that bind the skein, soak the glass noodles in hot water to cover. Soak until translucent and pliable, 3 to 4 minutes. Cut and discard the strings; cut the noodles into 4-inch lengths. Rinse with cool water, then drain thoroughly. To this point, all may be done a day ahead. Seal and refrigerate the ingredients; let come to room temperature before cooking.

5. Heat a wok or large heavy skillet over high heat until hot enough to evaporate a bead of water on contact. Add the oil and swirl to glaze the pan. When the oil is hot enough to sizzle a single scallion ring, reduce the heat to moderate and add the aromatics. Stir gently until fully fragrant, 20 to 30 seconds, adjusting the heat so they foam without browning. Add the meat, toss to break it into bits, and stir-fry until it turns 90 percent gray, about 2 minutes. Stir the sauce to recombine it and add it to the pan. Bring the liquids to a simmer. Stir in the noodles, cover the pan, and simmer gently until the liquids are absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes.

6. Remove the cover, turn off the heat, and stir to recombine. Fold in the chopped coriander. Taste and adjust with a dash more sugar or vinegar, if desired. Remove the dish to a heated serving bowl or platter of contrasting color. Garnish with the sprigs of coriander or watercress.


STORING BEEF AND LAMB

image

I do not freeze beef or lamb, having found from experimentation that the flavor and texture diminish steadily with the length of the freezing. I do, however, sometimes need to refrigerate beef or lamb overnight before using it, and this is how it should be done:

Keep ground beef or lamb in a perforated pan or a stainless steel strainer. Put a drip pan underneath to catch the blood and press a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the meat to make it airtight. The perforated pan allows the blood to drain; if the meat were to stand in it, it would grow stinky. The plastic wrap seals out the air, retaining the color of the meat.

Whole pieces of beef or lamb, if too bulky to refrigerate at home in a drainer pan, should be wrapped in a clean tea towel and then bagged in plastic. The towel will sop up the blood and keep the meat from decaying.

With even a night of storage, these precautions can make a significant difference in both the smell and taste of the meat, especially if what you purchased was not freshly killed.


MENU SUGGESTIONS: You can build a pretty salad of tossed baby greens dressed with our Orange (page 25) or Fresh Ginger Vinaigrette (page 24) to serve alongside the noodles. Wok-Seared Spinach Relish (page 438), Stir-Fried Zucchini Ribbons (page 437), or fresh corn would also be good.