SERVES 2 TO 4
Congee is the anglicized term for what in Cantonese is called jook—the steaming bowlful of last night’s leftover rice that is turned into this morning’s porridge, with the help of some nutritious slivers of preserved fish, meat, poultry, or egg. It is a jump-start breakfast not only throughout southern China but also in outposts of Chinese eating worldwide. Indeed, Chinese far away from home think of jook with the fondness that ex-New Yorkers reserve for bagels.
This is a wild version of the classic. It heretically mixes wild and white rices, and untraditionally opts for the lushness of stock as opposed to water. It is something I love to eat when I am dog-tired. Never one for morning porridge, I like it best at dusk or midnight.
½ cup uncooked short- or medium-grain white rice
⅓ cup uncooked wild rice
5 cups China Moon Infusion (page 72), Duck Infusion with Szechwan Peppercorns (page 74), or Vegetable Infusion (page 82), or unsalted chicken, duck, or vegetable stock
1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine or dry sherry
Kosher salt and Roasted Szechwan Pepper-Salt (page 5), to taste
1 cup finely shredded Chinese-Style Duck Confit (page 170), or other tasty shredded meat
Thinly sliced green and white scallions and/or coarsely chopped coriander leaves and stems, for garnish
Fried Ginger Threads (page 29), for garnish
The bits of this and that used to dress up rice salads and the like are frills that can change easily with mood and weather. The rice and the seasonings are the real nuts and bolts of the dish. All the rest is yummy frou-frou—dots of color and dashes of flavor and texture that invite improvisation.
1. Rinse the white rice in several changes of cold water, stirring gently with your hand, until the water runs clear; drain. Rinse the wild rice in several changes of cold water; drain.
2. In a heavy 2½- to 3-quart pot, combine the white rice, wild rice, infusion, and wine. Bring to a slow boil over moderate heat, stirring occasionally; let bubble for 5 minutes.
3. Reduce the heat to maintain a weak simmer, cover tightly, and cook for 1 hour. At the end of the hour, the mixture will be soupy and the wild rice will be splayed at the ends.
4. Taste the rice. Season as needed with kosher salt, then add a dash or more of the pepper-salt to tingle your tongue.
5. To serve, portion the congee among heated bowls of contrasting color. Top with the duck confit, scallions and/or coriander, and ginger. Set the table with deep-bowled Chinese spoons.
MENU SUGGESTIONS: Congee is the quintessential one-bowl meal. A glass of cool white wine is the only desirable accompaniment.
