SERVES 4 TO 6
Chinese greens are the glory of Chinatown markets. Crisp longbeans, flavorfully bitter Chinese broccoli, buttery rape, baby bok choy in several white to dark green varieties, the long, white icicle radishes known commonly by their Japanese name of daikon, and the hairy, short squashes called “fuzzy melons”—each has its own taste and texture, not quite like anything on our Western shelves.
While intimidating if you have never cooked them, these greens are quickly cut and easily stir-fried. They are especially nice in combination with something familiar like a handful of skinny carrot sticks.
We sauté all of our Chinese greens with a mixture of 1 part Chinese rice wine and 1-plus parts unsalted chicken stock. This concoction is poured into an empty wine bottle, boldly labeled half-and-half, and propped in our streetside kitchen window within reach of the stove. It draws many quizzical stares from the spectators who cluster on the street to ogle the cooks.
1½ pounds Chinese greens, such as Chinese broccoli, rape, baby bok choy, baby celery cabbage, Chinese longbeans, or a combination
1 carrot, cut into matchstick strips
¼ pound fuzzy melon or daikon, peeled
1½ to 2 tablespoons Ma-La Oil (page 17), Five-Flavor Oil (page 13), or corn or peanut oil
¼ cup Chinese rice wine or dry sherry
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons China Moon Double Stock (page 72), Vegetable Infusion (page 82), or unsalted chicken or vegetable stock
Roasted Szechwan Pepper-Salt (page 5)
1. Prepare the Chinese greens as follows: Trim the base of Chinese broccoli only if woody; the stems are prized more than the leaves! Cut the stalks on the diagonal into finger-lengths; leave the leaf and flower clusters attached to the stem, or separate if large. Cut Chinese rape in the same manner. Cut off the base of the baby cabbages; trim and reserve them, if pretty. Leave smaller leaves whole; cut larger leaves on the diagonal in half; leave intact the miniature cabbages at the core. Trim Chinese longbeans and cut them into finger-lengths.
2. If thick, blanch the broccoli and longbeans in rapidly boiling water for 5 to 10 seconds. Submerge in ice water to chill; drain. Blanch the carrots for 5 seconds. Plunge into ice water; drain.
3. Cut the fuzzy melon into rounds ⅛ inch thick or the daikons into rounds 1/16 inch thick.
4. Just before serving, heat a wok or large heavy skillet over high heat until a bead of water evaporates on contact. Add 1½ tablespoons of the oil and swirl to glaze the pan. Reduce the heat to moderately high. When the oil is hot enough to sizzle a carrot stick, add the carrots and toss for 30 seconds. Add the fuzzy melon or daikon and toss for 30 seconds more. Add the greens and toss for 30 seconds if raw, or just to combine if blanched. Adjust the heat to maintain a merry sizzle and drizzle a bit more oil down the side of the pan, if needed to prevent sticking.
5. Add the wine and stock to the pan and bring to a boil. Cover the pan and reduce the heat to low. Steam-simmer the greens until they are tender-crisp, 30 seconds to 1½ minutes, depending on the greens. Sprinkle with the pepper-salt to taste and toss to combine. Again dependent on the vegetables, they will have absorbed more or less of the liquid.
6. Serve immediately on heated plates of contrasting color. Pull some carrots to the top for a colorful note of contrast, and drizzle any pan juices over the greens.
MENU SUGGESTIONS: Depending on their character, the greens invite different mates. Stronger-tasting Chinese broccoli will be lovely with steamed chicken, milder Chinese rape happily partners spicy pork, and neutral daikon is fabulous with fish, and so on.
