Cover
Title Page
Contents
Copyright
Epigraph
Part I: Under the Wave at Waimea
The Island of No Bad Days
Epic Surf
The Great Pacific Garbage Patch
Drunk on the Road
The Search for the Hundred-Foot Wave
Portents
Picking Up the Pieces
Intrusions
Repetitions
Hapai
Leftovers
Under the Wave at Waimea
Part II: The History of a Hero
Haole—The Scar
Special Forces
The Mark of the Beast
Father Figures
Adrift
Rehearsals
Wipeout
Welcome to the Wave
Competition
A Rescue
Surf Bunnies
The Year of the Rat
Naming a Wave
A House at Jocko’s
“I Want Your Life”
Mr. Joe
Reality Check
The Ultimate Wave
The Kiss of Life
Part III: The Paddle-Out
Lies
“Unidentified Male”
Kapu
Pau
Unclaimed Remains
Paperwork
Floristan
The Leeward Side
A Dog Off His Leash
A Protected Class
Smack
The Release
The Paddle-Out at Waimea
An Excerpt from THE BAD ANGEL BROTHERS
1: The Rejection Ritual
About the Author
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