Wellington Region
Wellington
Kapiti Coast
Paekakariki
Paraparaumu
Waikanae
The Wairarapa
Martinborough
Greytown
Masterton & Around
Colour section 3
Wellington Region
Why Go?
If your New Zealand travels thus far have been all about the great outdoors and sleepy rural towns, Wellington will make for a lively change of pace. Art-house cinemas, hip bars, live bands and endless cafes all await you in NZ’s cultural capital.
Wellington is the crossing point between the North and South Islands, so travellers have long been passing through these parts. The likes of Te Papa and Zealandia now stop visitors in their tracks, while myriad other urban attractions reveal themselves over the course of a longer sojourn.
Less than an hour away to the north, the Kapiti Coast has a slower, beachy vibe, with Kapiti Island nature reserve a highlight. An hour away to the northeast over the Rimutaka Range, the Wairarapa plains are dotted with quaint towns and wineries, hemmed in by a rugged, wild coastline.
When to Go
A Wellington has a bad rep for blustery, cold, grey weather, but this isn’t the whole story: ‘Windy Welly’ breaks out into blue skies and T-shirt temperatures at least several days a year, when you’ll hear locals exclaim, ‘You can’t beat Wellington on a good day’.
A November to April are the warmer months here, with average maximums hovering around 20°C. From May to August it’s colder and wetter – daily temperatures lurk around 12°C.
A The Kapiti Coast and Wairarapa are a different story – both warmer and less windy, with more blue-sky days to bask in.
Best Places to Stay
A Ohtel
Wellington Region Highlights
1 Wellington Drowning in a sea of craft beer and top-notch coffee in New Zealand’s most artsy, bohemian and political city.
2 Kapiti Island Hiking through native bush filled with some of the country’s rarest bird species and perhaps even chancing upon a real live kiwi on a nocturnal walk.
3 Wairarapa Wine Country Struggling to maintain a straight line on your bicycle as you tour the wineries around Martinborough.
4 Cape Palliser Scaling the lighthouse steps on this wild and remote headland.
5 Queen Elizabeth Park Rambling through the dunes near beachy Paekakariki.
6 Greytown Soaking up the genteel, heritage ambience of the Wairarapa’s prettiest town.
8Getting There & Away
Wellington is a major transport hub, being the North Island port for the interisland ferries.
Northern Explorer trains run between Wellington and Auckland three times a week, and there’s a daily commuter service to Palmerston North.
Wellington Airport is serviced by international and domestic airlines, while Kapiti Coast Airport also welcomes a handful of domestic routes.
InterCity is the main North Island bus company, travelling just about everywhere. Mana Bus also has services to Auckland, including an overnight sleeper with bunk beds.
Wellington
%04 / Pop 208,000
On a sunny, windless day, Wellington is up there with the best of them. For starters it’s lovely to look at, sitting on a hook-shaped harbour ringed with ranges that wear a cloak of snow in winter. Victorian timber architecture laces the bushy hillsides above the harbour, which resonate with native birdsong.
As cities go, it’s really rather small but the compact nature of the downtown area gives it a bigger-city buzz and, being the capital, it’s endowed with museums, theatres, galleries and arts organisations completely disproportionate to its size. Wellingtonians are rightly proud of their kickin’ caffeine and craft-beer scene, and there’s no shortage of beard-wearing, skateboard-lugging, artsy types doing interesting things in old warehouses across town.
Sadly, windless days are not the norm for Wellington. In New Zealand the city is infamous for two things: its frequent tremors and its umbrella-shredding, hairstyle-destroying gales that barrel through regularly.
1Sights
map Google map (Lookout Rd)
The city’s most impressive viewpoint is atop 196m-high Mt Victoria (Matairangi), east of the city centre. You can take the No 20 bus most of the way up, but the rite of passage is to sweat it out on the walk (ask a local for directions or just follow your nose). If you’ve got wheels, take Oriental Pde along the waterfront and then scoot up Carlton Gore Rd. Aside from the views there are some rather interesting info panels.
oWellington Botanic GardensGARDENS
map Google map (%04-499 4444; www.wellington.govt.nz; 101 Glenmore St, Thorndon; 
hdaylight hours) 
F
These hilly, 25-hectare botanic gardens can be almost effortlessly visited via the Wellington Cable Car – nice bit of planning, eh? – although there are several other entrances hidden in the hillsides. The gardens boast a tract of original native forest, the beaut Lady Norwood Rose Garden, 25,000 spring tulips and various international plant collections. Add in fountains, a playground, sculptures, a duck pond, a cafe and city skyline views, and you’ve got a grand day out indeed.
map Google map (%04-920 9213; www.visitzealandia.com; 53 Waiapu Rd, Karori; adult/child/family exhibition only $9/5/21, full admission $20/10/46; h9am-5pm; 
c) 
S
This ground-breaking ecosanctuary is hidden in the hills about 2km west of town: buses 3 and 20 stop nearby, or see the Zealandia website for info on the free shuttle. Living wild within the fenced valley are more than 30 native bird species, including rare little spotted kiwi, takahe, saddleback, hihi and kaka, as well as NZ’s little dinosaur, the tuatara. An excellent exhibition relays NZ’s natural history and world-renowned conservation story.
map Google map (%04-472 8904; www.museumswellington.org.nz; 3 Jervois Quay, Queens Wharf; h10am-5pm; c) F
For an imaginative, interactive experience of Wellington’s social and maritime history, head to this beguiling little museum, housed in an 1892 bond store on the wharf. Highlights include a moving documentary on the Wahine, the inter-island ferry that sank in the harbour in 1968 with the loss of 51 lives. Māori legends are dramatically told using tiny holographic actors and special effects.
oNew Zealand ParliamentHISTORIC BUILDING
map Google map (%04-817 9503; www.parliament.nz; Molesworth St; h9.30am-4.30pm) F
New Zealand might be a young country but it has one of the oldest continuously functioning parliaments in the world and has chalked up more than its share of firsts, including being the first to give women the vote (in 1893) and the first to include an openly transsexual Member of Parliament (in 1999). You can learn all about NZ’s unique version of democracy on a free guided tour.
map Google map (%04-381 7000; www.tepapa.govt.nz; 55 Cable St; tours adult/child $20/10; h10am-6pm; c) SF
New Zealand’s national museum is hard to miss, taking up a sizeable chunk of the Wellington waterfront. ‘Te Papa Tongarewa’ loosely translates as ‘treasure box’ and the riches inside include an amazing collection of Māori artefacts and the museum’s own colourful marae (meeting place); natural history and environment exhibitions; Pacific and NZ history galleries; themed hands-on ‘discovery centres’ for children; and Toi Art, a revitalised home for the National Art Collection, which opened in 2018. Big-name temporary exhibitions incur an admission fee, although general admission is free.
Introductory and Māori Highlights tours depart from the information desk on level two; it pays to book ahead.
Weta CaveWORKSHOP
(%04-909 4100; www.wetanz.com; 1 Weka St, Miramar; single tour adult/child $25/12, both tours $45/20; h9am-5.30pm)
Academy Award-winning special-effects and props company Weta Workshop has been responsible for bringing the likes of The Lord of the Rings, The Hobbit, King Kong, District 9 and Thor: Ragnarok to life. Learn how they do it on entertaining 45-minute guided tours, starting every half-hour; bookings recommended. Weta Cave is 8km east of the city centre: drive, catch bus 31 or book transport ($40 return) with your admission.
City Gallery WellingtonGALLERY
map Google map (%04-913 9032; www.citygallery.org.nz; Civic Sq; h10am-5pm) F
Housed in the monumental old library in Civic Sq, Wellington’s much-loved City Gallery does a cracking job of securing acclaimed contemporary international exhibitions, as well as unearthing up-and-comers and supporting those at the forefront of the NZ scene. Charges may apply for major exhibits.
Pukeahu National War Memorial ParkMEMORIAL
map Google map (%04-385 2496; www.mch.govt.nz; Buckle St, Mt Cook; hhall 10am-5pm)
It seems strangely fitting that NZ’s National War Memorial should be a musical instrument and contain as its centrepiece not a statue of a soldier, but of a grieving mother and her children. The statue is contained within the Hall of Memories at the base of the 51m-high, 49-bell, art-deco Carillon (1932). It’s flanked by a sobering and oddly tranquil park with a prominent Australian Memorial consisting of 15 red sandstone columns.
map Google map (%04-910 3140; www.museumswellington.org.nz; 40 Salamanca Rd, Kelburn; adult/child/family $13/8/39; h4-11pm Tue & Fri, 10am-11pm Sat, 10am-5.30pm Sun)
Located in the Carter Observatory at the top of the Botanic Gardens, this full-dome planetarium offers regular space-themed multimedia shows (eg We Are Aliens, Dynamic Earth, Matariki Dawn) and stargazing sessions. Check the website for show times.
map Google map (%04-499 4444; www.wellington.govt.nz; 160 Wilton Rd, Wilton; hdaylight hours) F
The only botanic gardens in NZ specialising in native flora, Otari features more than 1200 plant species including an extant section of native bush containing the city’s oldest trees (such as an 800-year-old rimu). There’s also an information centre, an 18m-high canopy walkway, 11km of walking trails and some beaut picnic areas. It’s located about 5km northwest of the centre and is well signposted; bus 14 passes the gates.
map Google map (%04-473 8074; www.smoa.org.nz; 17 Boulcott St; h7am-6pm)
Closed for seismic strengthening and restoration from 2013 to 2017, this pretty Catholic parish church is looking downright heavenly. Built in 1922, it was the first Gothic-style church in the world to have been constructed using reinforced concrete. The motto of the Marist order, Sub Mariæ Nomine (‘under the name of Mary’), adorns the impressive Gothic facade, while colourful stained glass imported from Munich imbues the interior with warmth.
Petone Settlers MuseumMUSEUM
(%04-568 8373; www.petonesettlers.org.nz; The Esplanade, Petone; h10am-4pm Wed-Sun Apr-Nov, daily Dec-Mar) F
Built for the centenary of the Treaty of Waitangi in 1940, this gorgeous little art-deco building on the shell-strewn Petone foreshore contains a fun and fascinating wee museum focusing on local history and industry. It’s a 15-minute drive from downtown Wellington, or a 23-minute ride on the 83 bus.
map Google map (%04-473 6722; www.oldstpauls.co.nz; 34 Mulgrave St, Thorndon; tours $5-7.50; h9.30am-5pm) F
Designed by Rev Fred Thatcher, the first vicar of Wellington, this wonderfully woody former Anglican cathedral (1866) is well worth a look. Despite its modest dimensions it’s an exemplary example of Gothic Revival architecture, with a ceiling like a ship’s hull constructed from native timbers. Inside are claret carpets, drawers of old altar textiles, brassy organ pipes and a little shop.
Old Government BuildingsHISTORIC BUILDING
map Google map (%04-472 4341; www.heritage.org.nz; 55 Lambton Quay; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) F
Across the road from Parliament, this grand Italianate structure (1876) is the largest wooden building in the southern hemisphere, although it does a pretty good impersonation of stone. It’s now part of Victoria University’s law faculty. Check out the magnificent hanging staircase, the former cabinet room and the history displays on the ground and 1st floors.
Katherine Mansfield HouseHISTORIC BUILDING
map Google map (%04-473 7268; www.katherinemansfield.com; 25 Tinakori Rd, Thorndon; adult/child $8/free, guided tours $10; h10am-4pm Tue-Sun)
Often compared to Chekhov and Maupassant, Katherine Mansfield is one of NZ’s most distinguished authors. Born in 1888, she died of tuberculosis in 1923 aged 34. This Tinakori Rd house is where she spent five years of her childhood. It now contains exhibits in her honour, including a biographical film.
map Google map (%04-472 2199; www.wellingtoncablecar.co.nz; Cable Car Lane, rear 280 Lambton Quay; adult/child one way $4/2, return $7.50/3.50; hdeparts every 10min, 7am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-9pm Sat & Sun; c)
One of Wellington’s big-ticket attractions is the little red cable car that clanks up the steep slope from Lambton Quay to Kelburn. At the top are the Wellington Botanic Gardens, Space Place and the small but nifty Cable Car Museum map Google map (%04-475 3578; www.museumswellington.org.nz; 1A Upland Rd, Kelburn; h9.30am-5pm) F. The last of these evocatively depicts the cable car’s story since it was built in 1902 to open up hilly Kelburn for settlement. Ride the cable car back down the hill, or wander down through the gardens.
Wellington ZooZOO
(%04-381 6755; www.wellingtonzoo.com; 200 Daniell St, Newtown; adult/child $24/12; h9.30am-5pm; c) S
Committed to conservation, research and captive breeding, Wellington Zoo is home to a menagerie of native and exotic wildlife, including lions and tamarins. The nocturnal house has kiwi and tuatara. ‘Close encounters’ allow you to meet the big cats, red pandas, giraffes and mischievous meerkats (for a fee). The zoo is 4km south of the centre; catch bus 10 or 23.
New Zealand Cricket MuseumMUSEUM
map Google map (%04-385 6602; www.nzcricketmuseum.co.nz; Museum Stand, Basin Reserve, Mt Cook; admission by donation; hduring cricket matches)
Tucked under a stand at the Basin Reserve, the NZ Cricket Museum is a must-see for fans of the old game. It’s only open during cricket matches or by special appointment; check the website for details.
National Library of New ZealandMUSEUM
map Google map (%0800 474 300; www.natlib.govt.nz; 70 Molesworth St, Thorndon; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Sat) F
As well as being a wonderful resource for researchers, the National Library has various exhibition spaces including the Turnbull Gallery, displaying rare books and ephemera. The highlight is He Tohu (The Signs), opened in 2017 to house three of NZ’s most treasured documents: the 1835 Declaration of Independence of the United Tribes of NZ, the 1840 Treaty of Waitangi and the 1893 Women’s Suffrage Petition. Interesting multimedia displays outline the significance of these documents to the nation.
map Google map (Cuba Mall; h24hr; c)
Cuba Mall’s landmark (and sneakily splashy) fountain mocks the surrounding commerce with its Zen-like tilt-and-pour processes. The kids will be mesmerised!
New Zealand Portrait GalleryGALLERY
map Google map (%04-472 2298; www.nzportraitgallery.org.nz; Shed 11, Customhouse Quay; h10.30am-4.30pm) F
Housed in a heritage red-brick warehouse on the waterfront, this excellent gallery presents a diverse range of NZ portraiture and caricature from its own collection and frequently changing guest exhibitions.
Dowse Art MuseumGALLERY
(%04-570 6500; www.dowse.org.nz; 45 Laings Rd, Lower Hutt; h10am-5pm; c) F
A beacon of culture and delight, the excellent Dowse is worth visiting for its jaunty architecture alone. It’s a family-friendly, accessible art museum showcasing NZ art, craft and design, with a nice cafe to boot. The only permanent showcase is a carved pataka (traditional raised storehouse). It’s a 20-minute drive, 30-minute ride on bus 83 or short train trip from central Wellington.
Wellington Cathedral of St PaulCATHEDRAL
map Google map (%04-472 0286; www.wellingtoncathedral.org.nz; cnr Hill & Molesworth Sts; h8am-5pm Sun-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) F
At 88m long and 18m high, this modern Anglican cathedral exudes quasi-Moorish architectural vibes inside its lofty interiors. It first opened its doors in 1964 but wasn’t completed until 1998 – which makes it even more surprising that the exterior is looking so shabby. Look out for the lovely wooden Lady Chapel, a 1905 church which was moved here from Paraparaumu and tacked to the cathedral’s side in 1991.
Ngā Taonga Sound & VisionARCHIVES
map Google map (%04-384 7647; www.ngataonga.org.nz; 84 Taranaki St; screenings adult/child $10/8; hlibrary noon-4pm Mon-Fri) F
Ngā Taonga is a vortex of NZ moving images into which you could get sucked for days. Its library holds tens of thousands of titles: feature films, documentaries, short films, home movies, newsreels, TV programs, advertisements… There are regular screenings in the cinema (check the website for the schedule), and a viewing library (free) where you can watch films until you’re square-eyed. If the library is closed, there’s a media player in the on-site cafe.
map Google map (%04-499 8807; www.nzafa.com; 1 Queens Wharf; h10am-5pm) F
The showcase of the esteemed New Zealand Academy of Fine Arts (founded 1882), the Academy Galleries presents frequently changing exhibitions by NZ artists, from canvases to ceramics to photography.
map Google map (%04-384 9122; www.museumswellington.org.nz; 68 Nairn St, Mt Cook; adult/child $8/4; hnoon-4pm Sat & Sun)
Just a five-minute amble from the top of Cuba St, Wellington’s oldest cottage (1857) has been carefully restored, complete with an organic garden and chooks (chickens). Admission is by tour only (on the hour noon to 3pm), retelling stories of early settlers and life in the mid-19th century.
ESSENTIAL WELLINGTON
Eat yourself silly: Wellington has a gut-busting number of great cafes and restaurants.
Drink coffee; Wellington is wide awake around the clock.
Read The Collected Stories of Katherine Mansfield.
Listen to The Mutton Birds’ Wellington (1994) or The Mockers’ Murder in Manners St (1980).
Watch What We Do in the Shadows (Taika Waititi & Jermaine Clement, 2014), where Wellington’s vampires get their moment in the sun.
Go green at Zealandia, a ground-breaking ecosanctuary within the city’s confines.
Go online www.wellingtonnz.com, www.wairarapanz.com, www.kapiticoast.govt.nz, www.lonelyplanet.com/new-zealand/wellington.
2Activities
Wellington’s harbour offers plenty of opportunities to get active: kayaking, paddle boarding, sailing, windsurfing… (Wellington is windy: might as well make the most of it!). Back on dry land there’s rock climbing, cycling and high-wire walking to keep you entertained. Pick up the Wellington City Cycle Map for bike-trail info.
map Google map (%022 075 8754; www.switchedonbikes.co.nz; Queens Wharf; city & mountain bike hire 1hr/4hr/day $15/40/60, electric $20/45/75, guided tours from $95; h9am-5pm)
If you’re short on puff on those notorious Wellington hills, these guys rent out electric bikes for cruising the city or taking on guided tours around the harbour. Look for their shipping-container base near the end of the wharf.
Wellington Ocean SportsWATER SPORTS
map Google map (%04-939 6702; www.oceansports.org.nz; 115 Oriental Pde; harbour sails per person $40; hbooking office 9am-5pm)
Harness Wellington’s infamous wind on a one-hour harbour sailing trip, departing most weekends (weather dependent) – no experience required! Ask about stand-up paddle boarding, windsurfing, waka ama (outrigger canoeing) and kayaking sessions.
Ferg’s KayaksKAYAKING, CLIMBING
map Google map (%04-499 8898; www.fergskayaks.co.nz; Shed 6, Queens Wharf; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun)
Stretch your tendons with indoor rock-climbing (adult/child $21/17), cruise the waterfront wearing in-line skates (one/two hours $20/25) or go for a paddle in a kayak (one/two hours $25/35) or on a stand-up paddle board (one/two hours $30/40). There’s also bike hire (hour/day from $20/80) and guided kayaking trips.
Makara Peak Mountain Bike ParkMOUNTAIN BIKING
(www.makarapeak.org; 116 South Karori Rd, Karori; hdaylight hours)
In hilly Karori, 7km west of the city centre, this excellent 230-hectare park is laced with 45km of single-track, ranging from beginner to extreme. The nearby Mud Cycles (%04-476 4961; www.mudcycles.co.nz; 424 Karori Rd, Karori; half-day/full-day/weekend bike hire from $35/60/100; h9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun) has mountain bikes for hire. To get here by public transport, catch bus 3.
Freyberg Pool & Fitness CentreSWIMMING
map Google map (%04-801 4530; www.wellington.govt.nz; 139 Oriental Pde; pool adult/child $6/3.70; h6am-9pm; c)
Built in 1963, modernist Freyberg Pool is the most striking piece of architecture on Oriental Bay. As well as a big indoor pool there’s a gym, spa, and aerobics, yoga and pilates classes.
Adrenalin ForestADVENTURE SPORTS
(%04-237 8553; www.adrenalin-forest.co.nz; Okowai Rd, Porirua; adult/child 3hr $43/28; h10am-2.30pm daily Oct-Apr, Wed-Sun May-Sep)
Walk out on the high wire on this web of cables, suspension bridges and platforms strung between a copse of high pines. It’s located 21km north of central Wellington; catch the train to Porirua then the 230 bus.
map Google map (%04-473 3458; www.wildwinds.co.nz; 2 Hunter St; 2hr lesson $110; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat)
With all this wind and water, Wellington was made for windsurfing and kiteboarding. Tackle one or both with an introductory lesson.
map Google map (%04-384 8480; www.avantiplus.co.nz/wellington; 181 Vivian St; city/mountain/electric bike per day $30/40/60; h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)
Quality bike hire in the city centre.
TTours
Kiwi Coastal ToursDRIVING
(%021 464 957; www.kiwicoastaltours.co.nz; 3/5hr tours $150/250)
Excellent 4WD exploration of the rugged south coast in the company of a local Māori guide with plenty of stories to tell.
map Google map (%04-473 3145; www.walkwellington.org.nz; departs Wellington i-SITE, 111 Wakefield St; tour $20; h10am daily year-round, plus 5pm Mon, Wed & Fri Dec-Mar)
Informative and great-value two-hour walking tours focusing on the city and waterfront, departing from the i-SITE. Book online, by phone or just turn up.
map Google map (%04-801 9198; www.zestfoodtours.co.nz; departs Wellington i-SITE, 111 Wakefield St; tours from $185)
Runs 3½- to five-hour small-group foodie tours around the city, plus day tours over the hills into the Wairarapa wine region.
Flat EarthDRIVING
(%04-472 9635; www.flatearth.co.nz; half-/full-day tours from $95/385)
An array of themed small-group guided tours: city highlights, Māori treasures, arts, wilderness and Middle Earth filming locations. Martinborough wine tours also available.
map Google map (%04-901 3333; www.wharewakaoponeke.co.nz; Taranaki Wharf, 2 Taranaki St; tours walking $30-40, 2hr waka $100, 3hr waka & walk $125)
Get set for (and maybe a little bit wet on) a two-hour paddle tour in a Māori waka (canoe) around Wellington’s waterfront, with lots of cultural insights along the way. Call for the latest tour times and bookings – minimum numbers apply.
map Google map (%0800 246 877; www.hoponhopoff.co.nz; departs 101 Wakefield St; adult/child $45/30; hdeparts 9.30am, 11am, 12.30pm & 2.30pm)
Flexible 1½-hour scenic loop of the city with 11 stops en route. Tickets are valid for 24 hours.
map Google map (%04-389 2161; www.southcoastshuttles.co.nz; departs Wellington i-SITE, 111 Wakefield St; 2½hr tours $55; htours 10am & 1pm)
Offers scheduled daily city highlights tours including the south coast, Mt Victoria, Weta Cave and Otari-Wilton’s Bush.
Rover RingsDRIVING
(%04-471 0044; www.wellingtonrover.co.nz; adult/child tours from $95/50)
Half- to full-day tours of Lord of the Rings locations in and around the city.
Wellington Movie ToursTOURS
(%027 419 3077; www.adventuresafari.co.nz; adult/child tours from $45/30)
Half- and full-day tours with more props, clips, and Middle Earth film locations than you can shake a staff at.
WORTH A TRIP
DAYS BAY & MATIU/SOMES ISLAND
Wellingtonians have been taking day trips across the harbour to Days Bay since the 1880s. At the bay there’s a beach, a park and a cafe, and a boatshed with kayaks and bikes for hire. A 10-minute walk from Days Bay leads to Eastbourne, a beachy township with cafes, a cute pub, a summer swimming pool and a playground.
The sweet little East by West Ferry (%04-499 1282; www.eastbywest.co.nz; Queens Wharf; return adult/child $23/12) plies the 20- to 30-minute route 16 times a day on weekdays and eight times on weekends; some sailings stop in Petone and Seatoun as well.
Three or four of the daily ferries also stop at Matiu/Somes Island in the middle of the harbour, a DOC-managed reserve that is home to weta, tuatara, kakariki and little blue penguins, among other critters. The island is rich in history, having once been a prisoner-of-war camp and quarantine station. Take a picnic lunch, or even stay overnight in the basic campsite (adult/child $13/6.50) or at one of the two DOC cottages (sole-occupancy $200): book online at www.doc.govt.nz or at the DOC Wellington Visitor Centre.
zFestivals & Events
Check at the Wellington i-SITE for comprehensive events listings.
Summer CityCULTURAL
(www.wellington.govt.nz; hJan-Mar; c)
A summertime city-wide events bonanza – many free and outdoor happenings, including the lovely ‘Gardens Magic’ concerts. The Wellington Pasifika Festival and Waitangi Day celebrations also fall under the Summer City umbrella.
FringeCULTURAL
(https://fringe.co.nz/; hFeb-Mar)
Three weeks of way-out-there experimental visual arts, music, dance and theatre. Although it’s held around the same time as the biennial New Zealand Festival, Fringe is held every year.
New Zealand FestivalCULTURAL
(www.festival.co.nz; hFeb-Mar)
A month-long biennial (even years; around mid-February to mid-March) spectacular of theatre, dance, music, visual arts and literature. International acts aplenty. A real ‘kick up the arts’!
NZ International Comedy FestivalCOMEDY
(www.comedyfestival.co.nz; hApr-May)
Three weeks of hysterics. World-famous-in-NZ comedians, and some truly world-famous ones, too.
Wellington Jazz FestivalMUSIC
(www.jazzfestival.co.nz; hmid-Jun)
Five days of finger-snappin’ bee-boppin’ good times around the capital – an antidote for winter chills.
MatarikiCULTURAL
(www.tepapa.govt.nz; hmid-Jun–mid-Jul)
Celebrates the Māori New Year, with a free festival of dance, music and other events at Te Papa.
New Zealand International Film FestivalFILM
(www.nzff.co.nz; hJul-Aug)
Roving two-week indie film fest screening the best of NZ and international cinema.
BeervanaBEER
(www.beervana.co.nz; Westpac Stadium; hAug)
A barrel-load of craft-beer aficionados roll into town for a weekend of supping and beard-stroking.
Wellington on a PlateFOOD & DRINK
(www.wellingtononaplate.com; hAug)
Lip-smacking roster of gastronomic events, and bargains aplenty held over 17 days at restaurants around the city.
Spring FestivalFAIR
(www.wellington.govt.nz; hSep; c)
Tiptoe through the tulips in the Wellington Botanic Gardens and Otari-Wilton’s Bush, with plenty of free and kid-friendly walks and activities.
oWorld of WearableArtFASHION
(WOW; www.worldofwearableart.com; TSB Bank Arena; hSep-Oct)
A two-week run of spectacular garments (dresses or sculptures – it’s a fine line) displayed in a spectacular show. Tickets are hot property; hotel beds anywhere near the city sell out weeks in advance.
2City Walk
City Sculpture
START POST OFFICE SQ
END KARO DR
LENGTH 2.8km; ONE HOUR
Get started in windswept Post Office Sq, where Bill Culbert’s 1 SkyBlues twirls into the air. Cross Jervois Quay and pass between the Academy Galleries and Wellington Museum. At the Queens Wharf waterfront, turn right, past the big shed to the 2 Water Whirler, the largely lifeless needle of kooky kineticist Len Lye that whirrs crazily into life on the hour several times a day.
Continue along the promenade below the 3 mast of the Wahine, which tragically sank in Wellington Harbour in 1968. Around the corner are the white, rather whale-like forms of the 4 Albatross Fountain. Detour up onto the flotsamy 5 City to Sea Bridge and check out the collection of weathered wooden sculptures here.
Back on the waterfront, continue past the whare waka (canoe house), to the mooring of the 6 Hikitia, the world’s oldest working crane ship – something of a sculpture in itself. Strip to your undies and jump off the diving platform, or perhaps just keep on trucking along the wharf, past the naked bronze form of 7 Solace in the Wind leaning over the harbour fringe.
Turn right and wander through the landscaped wetlands of Waitangi Park before crossing Cable St and cutting along Chaffers St, and then Blair St with its century-old warehouses.
At Courtenay Pl look to your left, to check out the leggy form of the industrial-cinematic 8 Tripod, before turning right. Continue along to wedge-shaped 9 Te Aro Park with its canoe prow and trip hazards.
Turn left when you hit Cuba St, heading up the pedestrian mall. Watch out for the sly, sloshy a Bucket Fountain – it exists solely to splash your legs.
Change down a gear and window-shop all the way to the top of Cuba St, where a remnant heritage precinct is bisected by the controversial inner-city bypass. Bookend your sculpture walk with Regan Gentry’s brilliant but ghostly outline of a demolished house, b Subject to Change. Alongside is the curious 7.5m-deep Tonks’ Well, dating from the 1860s.
4Sleeping
Accommodation in Wellington is more expensive than in regional areas, but there are plenty of options close to the city centre. Free parking spots are a rarity – ask in advance about options. Wellington’s budget accommodation largely takes the form of multistorey hostel megaliths. Motels dot the city fringes. Self-contained apartments are popular, and often offer bargain weekend rates. Book well in advance in summer and during major events.
map Google map (%04-550 9373; www.thedwellington.co.nz; 8 Halswell St, Thorndon; dm/r from $29/85; 
p
W)
Two conjoined heritage houses have been reinvented to create this terrific modern hostel, sandwiched between the US and Chinese embassies. There are no en suites, but the rooms are clean, bright and comfortable, and there’s free wi-fi and breakfast. The location is handy for the ferries, trains and intercity buses, but a fair hike from the after-dark fun around Cuba St.
map Google map (%04-801 7280; www.yha.co.nz; 292 Wakefield St; dm/s from $36/87, d with/without bathroom $134/99; 
iW) S
The trusty YHA wins points for fantastic communal areas including two big kitchens and dining areas, and separate rooms for games, reading and watching movies. Sustainable initiatives (recycling, composting and energy-efficient hot water) abound, and there’s a comprehensive booking service and espresso machine at reception.
oMoana LodgeHOSTEL$
(%04-233 2010; www.moanalodge.co.nz; 49 Moana Rd, Plimmerton; dm/s/d from $38/70/96; pW)
In Plimmerton, 25km north of central Wellington (30 minutes by train), this exceptional hostel justifies the schlep with sea views and a little sandy beach just across the road. The lovely old house is immaculate and inviting, with an affable host who will happily steer you towards the local sights.
map Google map (%04-385 8829; www.cambridgehotel.co.nz; 28 Cambridge Tce; dm $26-40, s with/without bathroom from $99/69, d $119/89; W)
Built in 1883, the Cambridge is the consummate corner pub, with old-fashioned budget rooms above; it’s hard to believe that the Queen stayed here in the 1960s. All of the hotel rooms have fridges and kettles, and some have tiny bathrooms. The backpacker wing has a snug kitchen-lounge and dorms with little natural light but sky-high ceilings.
map Google map (%04-471 3480; www.trekglobal.net; 9 O’Reilly Ave; dm/s from $23/59, d with/without bathroom $89/79; piW) S
A highlight of this back-lane hostel is the funky and welcoming foyer hang-out and snug TV lounge. The sleeping quarters and kitchens are squeezed between rabbit-warren corridors. It’s relatively quiet with clean rooms and laudable extras such as bike hire, parking ($20 per day) and a women-only dorm with a suntrap terrace.
Wellington Top 10 Holiday ParkHOLIDAY PARK$
(%04-568 5913; www.wellingtontop10.co.nz; 95 Hutt Park Rd, Seaview; sites from $35, units with/without bathroom $120/70; pWc)
Located 16km northeast of central Wellington, the Top 10 offers the closest camping to the city. Family-friendly facilities include communal kitchens, a games room and a playground, but the industrial back-block location detracts. Follow the signs off SH2 for Petone and Seaview, or catch bus 83.
map Google map (%04-978 7800; www.nomadsworld.com; 118 Wakefield St; dm/r from $32/120; W) S
Smack bang in the middle of town, Nomads has good security, spick-and-span rooms with en suites and an on-site cafe-bar. Kitchen and lounge spaces are short on elbow room, but slick service, heritage features and the hot location stop you from dwelling on the negatives. Plus they offer free breakfasts and light dinners.
Hotel Waterloo & BackpackersHOSTEL$
map Google map (%04-473 8482; www.hotelwaterloo.co.nz; 1 Bunny St; dm $25-35, s with/without bathroom from $99/72, d $119/89; iW) S
Housed in an art-deco hotel (1937) at the railway end of town, this budget hotel and hostel has tidy rooms and plenty of capacious, character-filled communal areas (be sure to check out the bar).
map Google map (%021 073 9232; www.wellingtoncityaccommodation.co.nz; 5 & 7 Tonks Gr; cottage $170-200; pW)
These two tiny 1880 cottages squat amid a precious precinct of historic buildings. Clever conversion has transformed them into self-contained one-bedroom pads, comfortable for two but sleeping up to four (thanks to a sofa bed). It’s not the quietest location but it’s hip and exceedingly convenient. They also rent a modern two-bedroom studio and a historic townhouse (sleeping 10) nearby.
map Google map (%04-801 6800; www.gourmetstay.co.nz; 25 Frederick St; r with/without bathroom from $189/159; pWc)
A bit like a dorm-less hostel for grown-ups, this backstreet hotel has 13 rooms, all with different configurations, spread between two neighbouring buildings. Most have en suites and all of them are tastefully designed, with nice linen and natty art. A free continental breakfast is provided and a blackboard lists foodie tips around town.
map Google map (%04-978 1400; www.10gilmer.co.nz; 10 Gilmer Tce; apt from $118; pW)
There’s a hip, artsy vibe to this 62-unit inner-city apartment hotel. Sizes range from studios to two-bedroom apartments, and they all have their own kitchens and laundries. The nonrefundable advance-purchase rates are a steal for this part of town.
map Google map (%04-384 2714; www.booklovers.co.nz; 123 Pirie St, Mt Victoria; s/d from $180/220; 
aWc)
Author Jane Tolerton’s elegant, book-filled B&B has three queen guest rooms (one with an extra single bed). A bus service runs past the front gate to Courtenay Pl and the train station, and the city’s ‘green belt’ begins right next door. Free wi-fi and street parking.
map Google map (%04-385 0515; www.capitalview.co.nz; 12 Thompson St, Mt Cook; unit from $140; pW)
Many of the 21 rooms in this neat, well-maintained mini-tower building near the top of Cuba St do indeed enjoy capital views – especially the large, good-value penthouse (sleeps five). All are self-contained and spruce, and there’s free parking.
map Google map (%04-385 1849; www.apollolodge.co.nz; 49 Majoribanks St, Mt Victoria; unit from $150; pWc)
Within staggering distance of Courtenay Pl, Apollo Lodge is a loose collation of a couple of dozen varied units, ranging from studios to family-friendly two-bedroom units with full kitchens to long-stay apartments. It’s good value for a location this close to the city.
map Google map (%04-922 2800; www.heritagehotels.co.nz; 300 Lambton Quay; apt from $162; W) S
It’s big and more than a little corporate but this apartment-style hotel, right in the commercial heart of the city, has a range of plush studio, one- and two-bedroom apartments. Some have full kitchen and in-room laundry facilities, and some offer harbour glimpses.
Victoria Court Motor LodgeMOTEL$$
map Google map (%04-385 7102; www.victoriacourt.co.nz; 201 Victoria St; unit from $165; pW)
Three-tier, lemon-yellow Victoria Court continues to deliver satisfaction in the city, with spacious studios and apartments with kitchenettes. There are two disabled-access units, and larger units sleep up to five. It’s just a short stumble to Cuba St. Free on-site parking.
map Google map (%04-385 2156; www.cqwellington.com; 223 Cuba St; ste from $183; pW
s)
A lopsided proposition, the high-rise Quality is joined to its lesser-quality sibling, the heritage Comfort Hotel, by way of a shared reception and facilities including an in-house bar, restaurant, pool and parking ($30 per night). Expect snazzy, spacious suites but be prepared for hit-and-miss service.
map Google map (%04-803 0600; www.ohtel.nz; 66 Oriental Pde, Oriental Bay; r from $229; aW) S
Ever feel like you’ve walked into a design magazine? This bijou hotel has 10 individually decorated rooms with immersive NZ scenes plastered above the bath-tubs and original, mid-century, Scandi-style furniture and ceramics, avidly collected by the architect-owner. The best rooms have decks and harbour views.
map Google map (%04-802 8900; www.qtwellington.com; 90 Cable St; r/apt from $215/296; aWs)
That there’s a hippopotamus theme to the decor says a lot about the quirkiness of this art-filled hotel. In the hotel wing, black lifts open on to darkened corridors leading to flamboyantly decorated rooms. The apartment wing is marginally more restrained but equally luxurious, and the units have kitchenettes and laundry facilities.
Edgewater LodgeB&B$$$
(%04-388 4446; www.edgewaterwellington.co.nz; 423 Karaka Bay Rd, Karaka Bay; r from $290; pW)
True to its name, the Edgewater is a big modern house set just across the road from a little beach. It’s a 15-minute drive from the city but handy for the movie-making enclave of Miramar – which might explain the Hobbity paraphernalia scattered about. One of the three rooms has a large sea-gazing deck, while another has its own external entrance.
map Google map (%04-499 7338; www.joycesbnb.nz; 46 Aurora Tce, Kelburn; r $215; pW)
Perched above the motorway on steeep Aurora Tce, Joyce’s is but a short stumble from the city. The two rooms have private bathrooms and one of them is like a little flat, with its own separate kitchen, laundry and an adjoining second bedroom. The free parking is a rare treat this close to the centre.
map Google map (%04-472 9966; www.boltonhotel.co.nz; 12 Bolton St; r from $297; Ws)
Visiting diplomats and corporate types flock to the Bolton, filling 139 rooms spread over 19 floors. Rooms come in all shapes and sizes, but share a common theme of muted tones, fine linens and colourful artwork. Most have full kitchens; some come with park or city views. It’s independent and just a bit arty.
map Google map (%04-802 0858; www.athomewellington.com; L4, 181 Wakefield St; apt from $229; aW)
You’d be forgiven for thinking the worst, entering this commercial building, ascending in the lift and walking along the featureless corridor to the cluttered reception. After the unpromising lead-up, the bright and spacious apartments come as a welcome surprise. All have kitchens, laundries and a writing desk, and the location couldn’t be more central.
InterContinental WellingtonHOTEL$$$
map Google map (%04-472 2722; www.intercontinental.com; 2 Grey St; r from $293; Ws)
Occupying a big 1980s-style marble-clad tower in the city centre, the InterContinental offers all the usual five-star trimmings you’d expect from the international brand – including a gym, pool and an excellent restaurant.
map Google map (%04-385 0279; www.millenniumhotels.com; 100 Oriental Pde, Oriental Bay; d from $219; Ws)
This multistorey gleamer has a terrific location facing off with the harbour. Business bods surf through the lobby on a pervasive wave of slickness, while active types head for the heated indoor pool or free workouts at the Freyberg fitness centre across the road.
WELLINGTON IN…
Two Days
To get a feel for the lie of the land, walk (or drive) up to the Mt Victoria Lookout, or ride the cable car up into the Wellington Botanic Gardens. After lunch on boho-hipster Cuba St, catch some Kiwi culture at Te Papa or the Wellington Museum. Top off the day by doing the rounds of the city’s numerous craft-beer bars.
The next day, reconstitute with coffee and an eggy infusion at Fidel’s, a real Wellington institution, then head to Zealandia to be with the birds and learn about New Zealand conservation. Alternatively, walk the halls with a different species of birdbrain on a tour of Parliament. Grab a meal at one of the central city’s excellent restaurants, before catching some live music, or a movie at the gloriously restored Embassy Theatre.
Four Days
Shake and bake the two-day itinerary, then decorate with the following: hightail it out of Wellington for a seal-spotting safari to wild Cape Palliser, followed by a wine-tasting or two around Martinborough in the middle of Wairarapa Wine Country. The next day, head to Paekakariki on the Kapiti Coast for an ocean swim before wandering through the dunes of Queen Elizabeth Park next door.
5Eating
Wellington offers a bewildering array of eating options: contemporary cafes, upmarket restaurants and oodles of noodle houses. Stiff competition keeps standards high.
map Google map (%04-382 9818; www.facebook.com/littlepenang; 40 Dixon St; mains $12-17; h11am-3pm & 5-9pm Mon-Fri, 11am-9pm Sat; 
v)
Among a bunch of great Malaysian diners, Little Penang steals the show with its fresh-flavoured, fiery street food. Order a nasi lemak with the good eggy, nutty, saucy stuff; or go for the bargain $9 roti bread with curry. And don’t bypass the curry puffs. The lunchtime rush can border on the absurd.
map Google map (%04-384 7041; www.havana.co.nz; 163 Tory St; snacks $4-8; h7am-5pm Mon-Fri)
Continuing Wellington’s unwavering obsession with all things Cuba, this fantastic roastery and ‘First Class’ coffee lounge offers heart-jolting coffee and smiles all round. Nibbles are limited to the likes of scones, bagels, cakes and pies from the warmer. There’s also a takeaway counter in the roastery.
map Google map (%04-384 7014; www.facebook.com/midnightespresso; 178 Cuba St; mains $8-17; h7.30am-3am; v)
Let it all hang out after midnight at this devilishly good late opener. Munch on some cheesy lasagne, sticky date pudding or spinach-and-basil muffins if you must, but caffeine is really where it’s at. Dig the little brass repair plates in the old floorboards and the pinball machine.
KK Malaysian RestaurantMALAYSIAN$
map Google map (%04-385 6698; www.kkmalaysian.co.nz; 54 Ghuznee St; mains $13-16; h11.30am-9.30pm Mon-Sat, 5-9.30pm Sun; v)
The still-life vegetables and distressed Tuscan wall finishes here are a bit odd, but ignore the decor and focus on the food – some of the best Malaysian in the capital. Couples meet after work for a roti chanai (curry and bread) and students slurp laksa lunches, all just a few metres from Cuba St. Good vegetarian options, too.
map Google map (%04-385 9313; www.gelissimo.co.nz; Taranaki Wharf, 11 Cable St; single scoop $5; h8am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-5.30pm Sat & Sun)
The hottest thing in coldness is the gelato and sorbet made by Graham, who grew up in a fruiterer’s shop and sure knows his apples (and raspberries, and chocolate…). It’s a bit hard to find, nooked in behind the huge Mac’s brew bar.
map Google map (%04-385 6671; www.noblerot.co.nz; 6 Swan Lane; mains $29-34; h4pm-late)
Noble Rot thinks of itself as a wine bar, but this cosy nook serves some of Wellington’s best food, too. A French influence pervades the menu (charcuterie, duck parfait, smoked-cheese souffle, slow-cooked lamb), alongside a few distinctly Kiwi touches such as spaghetti with puha (a native green vegetable). Needless to say, the wine list is exceptional.
map Google map (%04-385 7274; www.shepherdrestaurant.co.nz; 1/5 Eva St; mains $26-30; h5.30pm-late Wed-Sun)
This good Shepherd leads the way with on-trend contemporary cuisine, guiding its eager flock through fusion flavours, unusual produce and pickled accompaniments. A long bar on one side and an open kitchen on the other, with an assortment of brightly painted stools and high tables in between. The vibe is young and edgy, and the food is thrilling.
map Google map (%04-384 2213; www.loretta.net.nz; 181 Cuba St; mains $13-28; h9am-10pm Tue-Sun; v)
From breakfast (waffles, crumpets, cereal) through lunch (sandwiches, fritters, soup) and into dinner (pizzas, roast chicken, schnitzel), Loretta has won leagues of fans with her classy, well-proportioned offerings served in bright, airy surrounds. We recommend splitting a pizza and grain-filled salad between two. Bookings for lunch only.
map Google map (%04-384 4992; www.fieldandgreen.co.nz; 262 Wakefield St; mains $14-33; h8am-10pm Wed-Sat, to 3pm Sun)
‘European soul food’ is their slogan, but it’s the best of British that dominates here, including Red Leicester scones, Welsh rarebit, kedgeree, fish-finger sarnies, bacon butties with HP sauce and pan-fried pork chops. It’s actually way more sophisticated than it sounds, with a Scandi-chic sensibility to the decor and accomplished London-born chef Laura Greenfield at the helm.
map Google map (%04-499 9379; www.wbcrestaurant.co.nz; Level 1, 107 Victoria St; small plates $14-18, large $25-28; h10.30am-late Tue-Sat)
At the Wholesale Boot Company (wonder why they use the acronym?), flavours from Thailand, China and Japan punctuate a menu filled with the best of NZ produce, including freshly shucked oysters and clams (served raw, steamed or tempura-battered) and game meats (tahr tacos, kung pow venison). Everything is packed with flavour and designed to be shared.
map Google map (%04-385 2263; www.pre-fab.co.nz; 14 Jessie St; mains $11-26; h7am-4pm Mon-Sat; W c)
A big industrial-minimalist space houses the city’s slickest espresso bar and roastery, owned by long-time Wellington caffeine fiends. Beautiful house-baked bread features on a menu of flavourful, well-executed offerings. Dogs doze on the sunny terrace while the staff efficiently handle the bustle inside.
map Google map (%04-801 4168; www.nikaucafe.co.nz; City Gallery, Civic Sq; mains $15-27; h7am-4pm Mon-Sat) S
An airy affair at the sophisticated end of Wellington’s cafe spectrum, Nikau consistently dishes up simple but sublime stuff (pan-fried halloumi, legendary kedgeree). Refreshing aperitifs, divine sweets, charming staff and a sunny courtyard complete the package. The organic, seasonal menu changes daily.
map Google map (%04-384 2855; www.capitolrestaurant.co.nz; 10 Kent Tce, Mt Victoria; mains brunch $10-27, lunch $18-27, dinner $28-38; hnoon-3pm & 5.30-9.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-3pm & 5.30-9.30pm Sat & Sun)
This consistent culinary star serves simple, seasonal fare using premium local ingredients, with a nod to classic Italian cuisine (try the homemade tagliolini or the parmesan-crusted lamb’s liver). The dining room is a bit cramped and noisy, but elegant nonetheless.
map Google map (%04-801 6868; www.fidelscafe.com; 234 Cuba St; mains brunch $9-22, dinner $13-26; h8am-10pm; v)
A Cuba St institution for caffeine-craving alternative types, Fidel’s cranks out eggs any which way, pizza and super salads from its itsy kitchen, along with Welly’s best milkshakes. Revolutionary memorabilia adorns the walls of the low-lit interior, and there’s a small outdoor area and a street-facing booth for takeaway coffees. The ever-busy crew copes with the chaos admirably.
map Google map (%04-384 4970; www.arocoffee.co.nz; 90 Aro St, Aro Valley; mains brunch $9-23, dinner $23-28; h7.30am-4pm Mon & Tue, 7.30am-4pm & 5.30-10pm Wed-Fri, 9am-4pm & 5.30-10pm Sat, 9am-5pm Sun)
If this stretch of Aro St – and this long-running licensed cafe in particular – were any more photogenic it’d be a crime. Order from the cabinet or take a seat and someone will bring you a menu. The coffee’s great too. In the evening it transitions into a neighbourhood bistro.
map Google map (%04-382 8713; www.thechippery.co.nz; 5 Majoribanks St, Mt Victoria; meals $12-20; hnoon-8.30pm; c)
At this backwater fish shack it’s fish and chips by numbers: 1. Choose your fish (from at least three varieties). 2. Choose your coating (beer batter, panko crumb, tempura…). 3. Choose your chips (five varieties!). 4. Add aioli, coleslaw, salad or sauce, and a quality soft drink. 5. Chow down inside or take away. There are burgers and battered sausages too.
map Google map (%04-385 9748; www.laffare.co.nz; 27 College St; mains $15-20; h8am-4pm; c)
One of Wellington’s pioneering coffee-roasting cafes (since 1990), L’affare is still doing things well. Its mod-industrial lines and backstreet vibes feel as fresh as ever. Aside from predictably good bean-brews, expect cooked breakfasts, soups, burgers, short ribs, steaks and salads. Look for the patriotic row of NZ flags and the sunny scatter of tables out the front.
map Google map (%04-472 3928; www.facebook.com/tatsushi392; 99 Victoria St; mains $9-19, set menus $29-34; h11.30am-2.30pm Mon-Sat & 6-10pm Tue-Sat)
This compact space is reassuringly dominated by an open kitchen from which authentic Japanese dishes such as super-fresh sashimi, homemade kumiage tofu, chazuke soup, squid sunomono (dressed salad) and moreish karaage chicken emerge. They also sell sushi and bento boxes to go.
Sweet Mother’s KitchenAMERICAN$$
map Google map (%04-385 4444; www.sweetmotherskitchen.co.nz; 5 Courtenay Pl; mains $11-27; h8am-10pm; v)
Perpetually brimming with cool cats, Sweet Mother’s serves dubious but darn tasty takes on the Deep South, such as burritos, nachos, pulled-pork po’boys, jambalaya, fried chicken and Key lime pie. It’s cheap and cute, with craft beer and good sun.
map Google map (%04-384 5755; www.greatindia.co.nz; 141 Manners St; mains $17-29; hnoon-2pm & 5-9pm; v)
This is not your average curry joint. While a tad more expensive than its competitors, Great India consistently earns its moniker with its distinctly flavoured offerings. The super-spicy chicken vindaloo will straighten your curls.
map Google map (%04-385 3229; www.ombra.co.nz; 199 Cuba St; dishes $6-19; h10am-11pm; v)
This stylish bacaro (taverna) dishes up mouth-watering cicheti (Venetian tapas) in warm, uptempo surrounds. Assess the on-trend distressed interior while sipping an aperitif, then share tasty morsels like fritto miso (fried fish), meatballs, pizzette (mini-pizza) and gnocchi. Round things off with a sumptuous tiramisu or honey-and-spiced-fig panna cotta.
map Google map (%04-384 6656; www.facebook.com/regal.restaurant; Level 1, 7 Courtenay Pl; mains $16-31; h11am-2.30pm & 5.30-10.30pm; v)
Regal is the pick of the Chinese restaurants clustered around Courtenay Pl, packing in the punters for late-night plates and weekend yum cha. Speed, volume, quality and brassy interior design – just what you want from a Chinese restaurant – plus excellence in the departments of steamed prawn dumplings, barbecue pork buns and spicy Szechuan tofu. Booking advised.
map Google map (%04-384 6020; www.scopa.co.nz; cnr Cuba & Ghuznee Sts; pizza $15-25, mains $20-31; h8am-late; v)
Authentic pizza, pasta and gnocchi make dining at this modern cucina a pleasure. The bianche (white) pizzas change things up a bit, as does the pizzaiolo – pizza of the week. Monday night meatballs; weekday lunchtime pasta specials ($12); Peroni on tap.
map Google map (%04-382 8288; 167 Cuba St; meals $12-19; hnoon-9pm Mon-Sat; v)
This cheery noodle house cranks out tasty vegie and vegan Malaysian and Chinese dishes (including kick-ass dumplings) in easy-clean, overlit surrounds.
map Google map (%04-385 8555; www.white-bait.nz; 1 Clyde Quay Wharf; mains $38; h5.30pm-late year-round, plus noon-3pm Wed-Fri Nov-Mar)
Neutral colours and gauzy screens set an upmarket tone for this top-rated seafood restaurant. All the fish is sustainably sourced and deftly prepared, with a scattering of quality non-fishy options rounding out the contemporary menu. Early diners (seatings before 6.30pm) can take advantage of a good-value set ‘bistro’ menu ($55 for an oyster, entree, main and petit four).
map Google map (%04-801 5114; www.loganbrown.co.nz; 192 Cuba St; mains $39-45; hnoon-2pm Wed-Sat & 5pm-late Tue-Sun; W) S
Deservedly ranked among Wellington’s best restaurants, Logan Brown oozes class without being overly formal. Its 1920s banking-chamber dining room is a neoclassical stunner – a fitting complement to the produce-driven modern NZ cuisine. The three-course bistro menu ($45) won’t hurt your wallet too badly (but the epic wine list might force a blow-out). There’s also a great-value $25 main-plus-wine lunch deal.
map Google map (%04-282 0205; www.charleynoble.co.nz; 1 Post Office Sq; mains $26-52; h7am-late Mon-Fri, 5pm-late Sat & Sun)
Bustling to the point of mild chaos once the after-work crowd descends, this cavernous establishment occupies the gloriously renovated Huddart Parker building. Solo diners should opt for a seat by the large open kitchen for a first-row view of the culinary action. Highlights include shucked-to-order oysters and wood-fired meats.
map Google map (%04-382 9559; www.ortega.co.nz; 16 Majoribanks St, Mt Victoria; mains $34-39; h5.30pm-late Tue-Sat)
Mounted trout, salty portraits, marine-blue walls and Egyptian floor tiles cast a Mediterranean spell over Ortega – a magical spot for a seafood dinner. Fish comes many ways (including as zingy sashimi), while desserts continue the Mediterranean vibes with Catalan orange crêpes and one of Welly’s best cheeseboards.
WELLINGTON FOR CHILDREN
Let’s cut to the chase: Welly’s biggest hit for kids is Te Papa, with the whole caboodle looking like it’s curated by a team of five-year-old geniuses. It has interactive activities galore, more creepy, weird and wonderful things than you can shake a squid at, and heaps of special events for all ages. See the dedicated Kids & Families page on the website for proof of Te Papa’s prowess in this department.
Conveniently located either side of Te Papa are Frank Kitts Park and Waitangi Park, both with playgrounds and in close proximity to roller skates, ice creams, and life-saving espresso for the grown-ups.
A ride up the cable car and a lap around the Wellington Botanic Gardens will get the wee ones pumped up. When darkness descends head to Space Place to gaze at galaxies far, far away. On a more terrestrial plane, kids can check out some crazy New Zealand critters at the Wellington Zoo or Zealandia.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Wellingtonians love a late night. The inner city is riddled with bars, with high concentrations around raucous Courtenay Pl, bohemian Cuba St and along the waterfront. A creative live-music scene keeps things thrumming, along with great NZ wines and even better craft beer. See www.craftbeercapital.com for beery propaganda. For gig listings see www.undertheradar.co.nz and www.eventfinder.co.nz.
oDirty Little SecretROOFTOP BAR
map Google map (%021 0824 0298; www.dirtylittlesecret.co.nz; Level 8, 7-8 Dixon St; h4pm-late Mon-Thu, noon-late Fri-Sun; W)
While it’s not strictly a secret (it’s packed to the gills on balmy evenings) this hip bar atop the historic Hope Gibbons Ltd building plays hard to get, with a nondescript entrance on Taranaki St next to Jack Hackett’s Irish Pub. Expect craft beer, slugged-together cocktails, loud indie music and plastic awnings straining to keep the elements at bay.
oGolding’s Free DiveCRAFT BEER
map Google map (%04-381 3616; www.goldingsfreedive.co.nz; 14 Leeds St; hnoon-11pm; W)
Hidden down a busy little back alley near Cuba St, gloriously garish Golding’s is a bijoux craft-beer bar with far too many merits to mention. We’ll single out ex-casino swivel chairs, a nice wine list, a ravishing Reuben sandwich, and pizza from Pomodoro (%04-381 2929; www.pizzapomodoro.co.nz; 13 Leeds St; pizza $16-26; hnoon-2pm Wed-Fri & 5-9pm daily; v) next door. Blues, Zappa and Bowie conspire across the airways.
map Google map (%04-890 3724; www.hawthornlounge.co.nz; Level 1, 82 Tory St; h5pm-3am)
This classy cocktail bar has a 1920s speakeasy feel, suited-up in waistcoats and wide-brimmed fedoras. Sip a whisky sour and play poker, or watch the behind-the-bar theatrics from the Hawthorn’s mixologists, twisting and turning classics into modern-day masterpieces. Open ‘til the wee small hours.
map Google map (%04-382 8593; www.thelibrary.co.nz; Level 1, 53 Courtenay Pl; h5pm-late)
You’ll find yourself in the right kind of bind at moody, bookish Library, with its velveteen booths, board games and swish cocktails. An excellent all-round drink selection is complemented by a highly shareable menu of sweet and savoury treats. There’s live music on occasion.
Garage Project TaproomCRAFT BEER
map Google map (%04-802 5324; www.garageproject.co.nz; 91 Aro St, Aro Valley; h3-10pm Tue-Thu, noon-10pm Fri-Sun)
The actual microbrewery occupies a former petrol station just down the road (68 Aro St) where they serve craft beer by the litre, petrol-pump style. If you’d rather consume your brew on premises in less industrial quantities, head to this narrow graffiti-lined bar. Order a tasting flight or chance your arm on the Pernicious Weed or Venusian Pale Ale.
map Google map (%04-384 9084; www.motelbar.co.nz; Forresters Lane; h5pm-late Mon-Sat)
The back-lane location, retro neon sign and unpromising staircase generate a suitably seedy NYC-in-the-’70s first impression but inside is a louche, low-lit tiki bar, where the barstaff shake up fruity cocktails before a backdrop of giant clams, Polynesian-style statues and pineapple lights. Campy, fun and a great place for a sneaky rendezvous.
map Google map (%04-595 4092; www.fortunefavours.beer; 7 Leeds St; h11am-11pm)
The bold and the beautiful head to the rooftop of this old warehouse to sup on beer brewed in the shiny vats downstairs. Along with seven of their own concoctions, they serve guest brews, wine and cocktails.
map Google map (%04-802 5335; www.scottyandmals.co.nz; 176 Cuba St)
Don’t get excited, there’s nothing fetishistic about Scotty and Mal’s upmarket bar, unless your fetish happens to be dark wood, chandeliers and fabulous cocktails. It’s a great place for a quiet drink; don’t come expecting a crowd.
map Google map (%04-891 2345; www.counterculture.co.nz; 211 Victoria St; unlimited games $5; hnoon-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat & Sun; W c)
Who doesn’t secretly love a board game? Assume an ironic stance if you must, but here’s the chance to embrace your inner games nerd in public. There are almost 400 games to choose from, staff to advise on rules, and craft beers and cocktails to take the edge off your ugly competitive streak.
map Google map (%04-472 0033; www.forkandbrewer.co.nz; 20a Bond St; h11.30am-late Mon-Sat)
Aiming to improve on the ‘kebab at 2am’ experience, F&B offers excellent burgers, pizzas, pies, share plates and meaty mains to go along with its crafty brews (of which there are dozens – the Low Blow IPA comes highly recommended). Oh, and dark-beer doughnuts for dessert!
map Google map (%04-384 4280; www.laundry.net.nz; 240 Cuba St; h4pm-2am)
Tumble into this lurid-green, junk-shop juke joint any time of the day or night for a tipple and a plate of jerk chicken. Regular live music and DJs offset Southern-style bar food and carnival-esque decor pasted up with a very rough brush. There’s also a backyard complete with a caravan.
map Google map (%04-803 3304; www.littlebeerquarter.co.nz; 6 Edward St; h3.30pm-late Sun & Mon, noon-late Tue-Sat)
Buried in a back lane, lovely LBQ is warm, inviting and moodily lit in all the right places. Well-curated taps and a broad selection of bottled beer pack a hoppy punch. There are good cocktails, wines, and whiskies, too, plus zesty bar food. Call in for a $20 pizza and pint on Monday nights.
map Google map (%04-381 2321; www.rogueandvagabond.co.nz; 18 Garrett St; h11am-late)
Fronting onto a precious pocket park, the Rogue is a lovably scruffy, colourful, kaleidoscopic craft-beer bar with heaps going on – via 18 taps including two hand-pulls. Voluminous, chewy-crust pizza, burgers, po’ boys, alcoholic milkshakes and regular, rockin’ gigs add further appeal. Swill around on the patio or slouch on the lawn.
map Google map (%04-384 7039; www.havanabar.co.nz; 32a-34 Wigan St; mains $25-28; h11.30am-late)
Go out of your way to find Havana, a mighty fine needle in Welly’s hospitality haystack, hidden down a side street in two weathered old cottages sharing a groovy backyard. Fortify yourself with tapas and top-shelf booze, then have a chinwag, smoke a cigar, carouse or all of the above. Dinner is a treat.
map Google map (%04-384 7300; www.hashigozake.co.nz; 25 Taranaki St; hnoon-late; W)
This bricky bunker is the HQ for a zealous beer-import business, splicing big-flavoured international brews into a smartly selected NZ range. Hop-heads stand elbow to elbow around the bar, ogling the oft-changing taps and brimming fridges, and squeeze into the sweet little side-lounge on live-music nights.
map Google map (%04-384 9085; www.thecross.co.nz; 39 Abel Smith St; h8am-late; c)
Welcoming to all – from frenetic five-year-olds to knitting nanas – the democratic Cross rambles through a series of colourful rooms, combining a lively bar, a dance floor, a pool table and the best garden bar in town. There’s good beer on tap, food for all budgets and regular events (gigs, quiz nights, karaoke, coffee groups).
map Google map (%04-384 3359; www.matterhorn.co.nz; 106b Cuba St; h3pm-late Mon-Fri, 10am-late Sat & Sun)
Founded in 1963 as a Swiss cafe, the ‘Horn peaks with its reputable food (tapas and dinner), snappy service and regular live music. The sultry, designerly interior still holds up, the wine list is as long as your leg, and it’s still the best place for a drink on Cuba Mall.
map Google map (%04-282 1580; www.ivybar.co.nz; 63 Cuba St; h7pm-late Tue-Sat)
Descend the stairs to the clubbiest of Wellington’s queer venues. It attracts a fun young crowd including plenty of mic-hogging young lesbians on karaoke nights.
3Entertainment
Wellington has a lively theatre scene and is the home of large national companies such as the Royal NZ Ballet and the NZ Symphony Orchestra. Most shows can be booked via Ticketek (www.ticketek.co.nz), Ticketmaster (www.ticketmaster.co.nz) and TicketDirect (www.ticketdirect.co.nz). Discounted same-day tickets for productions are sometimes available at the i-SITE.
Movie times are listed in the daily Dominion Post and at www.flicks.co.nz. There are some excellent indie cinemas here, plus the usual mainstream megaplexes.
map Google map (%04-384 7657; www.embassytheatre.co.nz; 10 Kent Tce; h10am-late)
Wellywood’s cinema mother ship is an art-deco darling, built in the 1920s. Today she screens mainly mainstream films with state-of-the-art sound and vision. Be sure to check out the glamorous Black Sparrow cocktail bar at the rear.
map Google map (%04-385 3337; www.lighthousecinema.co.nz; 29 Wigan St; adult/child $18/13; h10am-late; W)
Tucked away near the top end of Cuba St, this small, stylish cinema throws a range of mainstream, art-house and foreign films up onto the screens in three small theatres. High-quality snacks. Tuesday tickets $11.50.
map Google map (%04-801 6797; www.sanfran.co.nz; 171 Cuba St; h3pm-late Tue-Sat)
This much-loved, midsize music venue is moving to a new beat; it has boarded the craft-beer bandwagon and rocks out smoky, meaty food along the way. Gigs still rule, dancing is de rigueur, and the balcony gets good afternoon sun.
Michael Fowler CentreCONCERT VENUE
map Google map (%04-801 4231; www.venueswellington.com; 111 Wakefield St)
The city’s major concert hall stages regular performances by the NZ Symphony Orchestra (www.nzso.co.nz), Orchestra Wellington (www.orchestrawellington.co.nz) and assorted pop stars and contemporary musicians. The i-SITE, near the entrance, acts as an outlet for Ticketek and Ticketmaster.
map Google map (%04-801 4231; www.venueswellington.com; 77 Courtenay Pl)
This grand old heritage theatre hosts big-ticket productions such as the Royal NZ Ballet (www.rnzb.org.nz) and NZ Opera (www.nzopera.com), plus the odd rocker and comedian.
map Google map (%04-801 7992; www.circa.co.nz; 1 Taranaki St)
This attractive waterfront theatre has two auditoriums in which it shows everything from edgy new works to Christmas panto.
map Google map (%04-385 8883; www.welovemeow.co.nz; 9 Edward St; h4pm-late Tue-Fri, 6pm-late Sat)
Truly the cat’s pyjamas, Meow goes out on a limb to host a diverse range of gigs and performances: country, ragtime, DJs, acoustic rock, jazz, poetry… At the same time the kitchen plates up good-quality, inexpensive food at any tick of the clock. Mishmashed retro decor; cool craft beers.
map Google map (%04-802 4175; www.bats.co.nz; 1 Kent Tce)
Wildly alternative but accessible BATS presents cutting-edge and experimental NZ theatre – varied, cheap and intimate – in its revamped theatre.
7Shopping
Wellington supports a host of independent shops including scores of design stores and clothing boutiques. Despite cheap imports and online shopping, there’s still plenty that’s Kiwi-made here. Retailers fly their home-grown flags with pride.
map Google map (%04-499 4245; www.unitybooks.co.nz; 57 Willis St; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun)
Sets the standard for every bookshop in the land, with dedicated NZ tables piled high.
map Google map (www.undergroundmarket.co.nz; under Frank Kitts Park, Jervois Quay; h10am-4pm Sat)
On Saturday mornings (and the occasional Sunday) the car park under Frank Kitts Park is filled with stalls selling interesting craft, artsy gifts, clothes by up-and-coming designers, and nibbles – plus the inevitable dreamcatchers and tie-dye that’s de rigueur in such settings.
map Google map (%04-385 0058; www.bello.co.nz; 140 Willis St; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun)
A sweet little boutique full of gorgeous things – not the least of which are the charming staff, who will point you in the direction of designer glassware, refined fragrances, floaty scarves and luxurious homewares.
map Google map (%04-385 1330; www.slowboatrecords.co.nz; 183 Cuba St; h9.30am-5.30pm Sat-Thu, to 7.30pm Fri)
Country, folk, pop, indie, metal, blues, soul, rock, Hawaiian nose-flute music – it’s all here at Slow Boat, Wellington’s long-running music shop and Cuba St mainstay.
map Google map (%04-384 9906; www.moorewilsons.co.nz; 93 Tory St; h7.30am-7pm)
A call-out to self-caterers: this positively swoon-inducing grocer is one of NZ’s most committed supporters of independently produced and artisanal produce. If you want to chew on the best of Wellington and NZ, here’s your chance. Head upstairs for dry goods, wine, beer and kitchenware.
map Google map (%04-384 6107; www.mandatory.co.nz; 108 Cuba St; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4.30pm Sat, noon-4pm Sun)
Fancy duds for dudes: great service and sharp tailoring for the capital’s cool cats.
map Google map (%04-495 7895; www.harboursidemarket.co.nz; cnr Cable & Barnett Sts; h7.30am-1pm Sun)
Around 25,000 locals visit this market every Sunday. Why? Well, it’s in a scenic spot next to Te Papa, and you can find everything here from a jar of raspberry jam to an heirloom carrot to a cinnamon roll. There’s lots of cooked meals for lunch, too.
map Google map (%04-922 0600; www.oldbank.co.nz; 233-237 Lambton Quay; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat & Sun)
This dear old building on a wedge-shaped city site is home to an arcade of indulgent, high-end shops, predominantly jewellers and boutiques. Check out the fab tiled floors and Corinthian columns.
map Google map (%04-802 4934; www.kuragallery.co.nz; 19 Allen St; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat & Sun)
Contemporary Māori and NZ art: painting, ceramics, jewellery and sculpture. A gorgeous gallery – come for a look even if you’re not buying.
map Google map (%022 074 2550; www.wellingtonnightmarket.co.nz; Left Bank, Cuba Mall; h5-11pm Fri & Sat)
Nocturnal fun and games on Cuba St, with international foods aplenty and more buskers and performers than you have eyes and ears. On Saturdays it moves a block down the road to the corner of Manners St.
map Google map (%04-384 8948; www.facebook.com/huntersandcollectorswellington; 134 Cuba St; h10.30am-6pm)
Beyond the best-dressed window in NZ you’ll find off-the-rack and vintage clothing (punk, skate, Western and mod), plus shoes and accessories.
map Google map (%04-471 1404; www.thevaultnz.com; 2 Plimmer Steps; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Thu, 9.30am-7pm Fri, 11am-4.30pm Sat & Sun)
Exquisite jewellery, clothing, bags, ceramics, cosmetics – a lovely shop with lots of beautiful NZ-made things.
map Google map (%04-912 0700; www.davidjones.com.au; 165-177 Lambton Quay; h9am-6pm Sat-Thu, to 8pm Fri)
Established in 1863 this was Kirkcaldie & Stains, New Zealand’s answer to Harrods, until 2016. Now it’s an outpost of the popular Australian brand. Bring your travel documents with you for tax-free shopping.
8Information
EMERGENCY & IMPORTANT NUMBERS
| Ambulance, fire service & police | %111 |
| Lifeline Aotearoa | %0800 543 354 |
| Sexual Abuse Help Foundation | %04-801 6655 |
| Wellington Central Police Station | %04-381 2000 |
INTERNET ACCESS
Free wi-fi is available throughout most of Wellington’s Central Business District (CBD; www.cbdfree.co.nz).
MEDICAL SERVICES
Wellington Accident & Urgent Medical Centre (%04-384 4944; www.wamc.co.nz; 17 Adelaide Rd, Mt Cook; h8am-11pm) No appointment necessary; also home to an after-hours pharmacy.
Wellington Regional Hospital (%04-385 5999; www.ccdhb.org.nz; Riddiford St, Newtown; h24hr) Has a 24-hour emergency department; 1km south of the city centre.
UFS Pharmacy (%04-384 9499; www.ufs.co.nz; 45 Courtenay Pl; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) Handy city-centre pharmacy.
POST
Post Office (%0800 081 190; www.nzpost.co.nz; 2 Manners St; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat; W)
TOURIST INFORMATION
DOC Wellington Visitor Centre (%04-384 7770; www.doc.govt.nz; 18 Manners St; h9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3.30pm Sat) Maps, bookings, passes and information for local and national walks (including Great Walks), parks, huts and camping.
Wellington i-SITE (%04-802 4860; www.wellingtonnz.com; 111 Wakefield St; h8.30am-5pm; W) After an earthquake chased it out of its regular digs, the i-SITE has taken over the Michael Fowler Centre’s old booking office. It looks like it will be here for the foreseeable future, but check its website for the latest. Staff book almost everything here, and cheerfully distribute Wellington’s Official Visitor Guide, along with other maps and helpful pamphlets.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Wellington is an international gateway to NZ. Wellington Airport (WLG; %04-385 5100; www.wellingtonairport.co.nz; Stewart Duff Dr, Rongotai) has the usual slew of airport accoutrements: info kiosks, currency exchange, ATMs, car-rental desks, shops, espresso… If you’re in transit or have an early flight, note that you can’t linger overnight inside the terminal.
Domestic services include:
Air New Zealand (%0800 737 000; www.airnewzealand.co.nz) Flies to/from Auckland, Hamilton, Tauranga, Rotorua, Gisborne, Napier, New Plymouth, Palmerston North, Kapiti Coast, Nelson, Blenheim, Christchurch, Timaru, Queenstown, Dunedin and Invercargill.
Golden Bay Air (www.goldenbayair.co.nz) Takaka
Jetstar (www.jetstar.com) Auckland, Nelson, Christchurch and Dunedin.
Sounds Air (%0800 505 005; www.soundsair.com) Taupo, Blenheim, Picton, Nelson and Westport.
BOAT
On a clear day, sailing into Wellington Harbour or into Picton in the Marlborough Sounds is magical. Cook Strait can cut up rough, but the big ferries handle it well, and offer the distractions of sport lounges, cafes, bars, information desks and cinemas.
Car-hire companies allow you to pick up and drop off vehicles at ferry terminals. If you arrive outside business hours, arrangements can be made to collect your vehicle from the terminal car park.
There are two ferry options:
Bluebridge Ferries (%04-471 6188; www.bluebridge.co.nz; 50 Waterloo Quay; adult/child/car/campervan/motorbike from $53/27/120/155/51; W) Up to four sailings between Wellington and Picton daily (3½ hours).
Interislander (%04-498 3302; www.interislander.co.nz; Aotea Quay; adult/child/car/campervan/motorbike from $56/28/149/181/84) Up to five sailings between Wellington and Picton daily; crossings take 3¼ to 3½ hours. A free shuttle bus heads from platform 9 at Wellington Railway Station to Aotea Quay, 50 minutes before every daytime sailing and returns 20 minutes after every arrival.
BUS
Wellington is a major terminus for North Island bus serves.
InterCity (%04-385 0520; www.intercity.co.nz) coaches depart from platform 9 at Wellington Railway Station. Destinations include Auckland (from $28, 11¼ hours, three daily), Rotorua (from $26, 7½ hours, three daily), Taupo (from $26, six, hours, four daily), Napier (from $19, 5¼ hours, two daily) and Palmerston North (from $15, 2¼ hours, six daily).
Mana Bus (%09-367 9140; www.manabus.com) departs from Bunny St, opposite the railway station. It has two daily services to Auckland (from $25, 11½ hours), Hamilton (from $30, nine hours), Rotorua (from $25, 7¼ hours), Taupo (from $23, 6¼ hours) and Palmerston North (from $15, two hours), one of which is an overnight sleeper service where you can pay extra for a bed.
TRAIN
Metlink (%0800 801 700; www.metlink.org.nz) commuter trains head as far as Paekakariki ($10.50, 46 minutes, every 30 minutes), Paraparaumu ($12, 55 minutes, every 30 minutes), Waikanae ($13, one hour, every 30 minutes) and Masterton ($18, 1¾ hours, six on weekdays, two on weekends).
Three days a week the Northern Explorer (www.greatjourneysofnz.co.nz) heads to/from Palmerston North (from $59, two hours), Ohakune (from $79, five hours), National Park Village (from $79, 5¼ hours), Hamilton (from $139, 8½ hours) and Auckland (from $139, 11 hours).
The daily Capital Connection heads from Palmerston North ($35, two hours), Waikanae ($15, 55 minutes) and Paraparaumu ($10, 48 minutes) to Wellington on weekday mornings, returning in the evening.
8Getting Around
Metlink is the one-stop shop for Wellington’s regional bus, train and harbour ferry networks; there’s a handy journey planner on its website. You can pay by cash or use Snapper (www.snapper.co.nz), an integrated prepaid smartcard. The Snapper fares are cheaper ($1.66 for a one-zone trip as opposed to $2) but the card costs $10, so it’s probably not worth purchasing for a short stay.
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Wellington Airport is 6km southeast of the city. Wellington Combined Shuttles (%04-387 8787; www.co-opshuttles.co.nz; 1/2/3 passengers $20/26/32) provides a door-to-door minibus service (15 minutes) between the city and airport. It’s cheaper if two or more passengers are travelling to the same destination. Shuttles meet all arriving flights.
The Airport Flyer (%0800 801 700; www.airportflyer.co.nz; cash fare to city $9; W) bus runs between the airport, Wellington Railway Station and Lower Hutt every 20 minutes (every 10 minutes in peak hours) from around 7am to 9pm.
A taxi between the city centre and the airport takes around 15 minutes and costs about $30.
BICYCLE
If you’re fit or keep to the flat, cycling is a viable option. If you’d like some extra help on the hills, consider an electric bike. They’re available from Switched On Bikes and On Yer Bike, while Ferg’s Kayaks only hires the pedal-powered version.
BUS
Frequent and efficient Metlink buses cover the whole Wellington region, running between approximately 6am and 11.30pm. Major bus terminals (Lambton Quay) are near the Wellington Railway Station, and on Courtenay Pl near the Cambridge Tce intersection. Pick up route maps and timetables from the i-SITE and convenience stores, or online.
Metlink also runs After Midnight buses, departing from two city stops (Courtenay Pl and Manners St) between midnight and 4.30am Saturday and Sunday, following a number of routes to the outer suburbs. There’s a set $6.50 fare for most trips.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
There are a lot of one-way streets in Wellington, and parking gets tight (and pricey) during the day. If you’ve got a car or a caravan, park on the outskirts and walk or take public transport into the city centre. Freedom camping is permitted for self-contained vehicles at Evans Bay marina, 3km southeast of the city centre.
Along with the major international rental companies, Wellington has various lower-cost operators including Apex Car Rental (%04-385 2163; www.apexrentals.co.nz; 186 Victoria St; h8am-5pm), Jucy Rentals (%0800 399 736; www.jucy.co.nz; 13 Jean Batten St, Rongotai; h8am-6pm) and Omega Rental Cars (%04-472 8465; www.omegarentalcars.com; 77 Hutt Rd; h8am-5pm). Most agencies have offices both at the airport and in the city centre. If you plan on exploring both the North and South Islands, most companies suggest you leave your car in Wellington and pick up another one in Picton after crossing Cook Strait. This is a common (and more affordable) practice, and car-hire companies make it a painless exercise.
There are often cheap deals on car relocation from Wellington to Auckland, as most renters travel in the opposite direction. The catch is that you may have only 24 or 48 hours to make the journey.
TAXI
Packed taxi ranks can be found on Courtenay Pl, at the corner of Dixon and Victoria Sts, on Featherston St, and outside the railway station. Major operators include Green Cabs (%0800 464 7336; www.greencabs.co.nz) and Wellington Combined Taxis (%04-384 4444; www.taxis.co.nz). There are also plenty of Uber drivers in the city.
TRAIN
Metlink operates five train routes running through Wellington’s suburbs to regional destinations. Trains run frequently from around 6am to 11pm, departing Wellington Railway Station. The lines are as follows:
Johnsonville via Ngaio and Khandallah
Kapiti via Porirua, Plimmerton, Paekakariki and Paraparaumu
Melling via Petone
Hutt Valley via Waterloo to Upper Hutt
Wairarapa via Featherston, Carterton and Masterton
Timetables are available from convenience stores, the train station, Wellington i-SITE and online. Fares are stage-based; there’s a handy calculator on the Metlink site. A Day Rover ticket ($14) allows unlimited off-peak and weekend travel on all lines except Wairarapa.
WELCOME TO WELLYWOOD
In recent years Wellington has stamped its name firmly on the world map as the home of New Zealand’s dynamic film industry, earning itself the nickname ‘Wellywood’. Acclaimed director Sir Peter Jackson still calls Wellington home; the success of his The Lord of the Rings films and subsequent productions such as King Kong, The Adventures of Tintin and The Hobbit have made him a powerful Hollywood player, and have bolstered Wellington’s reputation.
Canadian director James Cameron is also in on the action; shooting has commenced for his four Avatar sequels, the first of which is due for a 2020 release. Cameron and his family are NZ residents, with landholding in rural Wairarapa. They have that in common with Jackson, who also has a property there.
Movie buffs can experience some local movie magic by visiting the Weta Cave or one of many film locations around the region – a speciality of local guided-tour companies.
Kapiti Coast
With long, driftwood- and pumice-strewn, crowd-free beaches, the Kapiti Coast acts as a summer playground and suburban extension for Wellingtonians. The region takes its name from Kapiti Island, a wildlife sanctuary 5km offshore from Paraparaumu.
The mountainous Tararua Forest Park forms a dramatic backdrop along the length of the coastline and has some accessible day walks and longer tramps.
The Kapiti Coast makes an easy day trip from Wellington, though if you’re after a few restful days there’s enough of interest to keep you entertained.
8Information
The Kapiti Coast’s official visitor centre is the Paraparaumu i-SITE, at the unappealing, sprawling Coastlands shopping area (www.coastlands.co.nz; banks, ATMs, post office, supermarkets…).
8Getting There & Away
Access to the the Kapiti Coast is a snap: it’s just a short drive away from Wellington, there are good bus and train connections to Auckland and Wellington, and there’s an airport in Paraparaumu.
AIR
Kapiti Coast Airport (%04-298 1013; www.kapiticoastairport.co.nz; 60 Toru Rd) is in central Paraparaumu. Sounds Air and Air2There (%0800 777 000; www.air2there.com) fly to Blenheim and Nelson.
BUS
InterCity coaches stop at the major Kapiti Coast towns. Destinations include Wellington, Napier, New Plymouth, Taupo and Auckland.
Metlink runs local bus services around Paraparaumu and Waikanae – they’re particularly handy for getting from the railway station to the beach.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Getting here from Wellington is a breeze by car: just follow SH1. After Paekakariki the Kapiti Expressway takes over; note, older satellite navigation devices might not include this route, which opened in 2017.
TRAIN
Metlink commuter trains between Wellington and the coast are more convenient and more frequent than buses. Services run from Wellington to Waikanae (generally half-hourly 5am to midnight), stopping in Paekakariki and Paraparaumu en route.
Three days a week the scenic Northern Explorer train stops in Paraparaumu, heading to Palmerston North (from $59, one hour), Ohakune (from $79, 3¾ hours), National Park (from $79, 4½ hours), Hamilton (from $119, 7¼ hours) and Auckland (from $119, 9¾ hours).
The Capital Connection heads from Palmerston North to Wellington on weekday mornings, returning in the evening; stops include Paraparaumu and Waikanae.
Paekakariki
%04 / Pop 1670
The first stop-worthy Kapiti Coast town you come to heading north from Wellington is cute little Paekakariki, 41km north of the capital. It’s an arty seaside village stretched along a black-sand beach, serviced by a train station.
1Sights
oQueen Elizabeth ParkPARK
(%04-292 8625; www.gw.govt.nz/qep; MacKay’s Crossing, SH1; h8am-dusk; c) S
One of the last relatively unchanged areas of dune and wetland along the Kapiti Coast, this undulating 650-hectare beachside park offers swimming, walking, cycling and picnicking opportunities, as well as a tram museum (%04-292 8361; www.wellingtontrams.org.nz; MacKay’s Crossing, SH1; admission by donation; h11am-4pm Sat & Sun, daily Jan) and horse riding outfit. There are three entrances: off Wellington Rd in Paekakariki, at MacKay’s Crossing on SH1, and off the Esplanade in Raumati to the north.
WORTH A TRIP
KAPITI ISLAND
Kapiti Island is the coastline’s dominant feature, a 10km by 2km slice that has been a protected reserve since 1897. Predator-free since 1998 (22,500 possums were eradicated here in the 1980s), it’s now home to a remarkable range of birds, including many species that are extinct on the mainland.
To visit the island, you must make your arrangements in advance with one of two licensed operators. Remember to reconfirm your arrangements on the morning of departure, as sailings are weather-dependent. All boats depart from Paraparaumu Beach, which can be reached by train.
Tours
The island is open to day walkers (there are some fab trails here), limited each day to 100 people at Rangatira, where you can hike up to the 521m high point, Tuteremoana; and 60 visitors at the northern end, which has short, gentle walks to viewpoints and around a lagoon.
Family-run Kapiti Island Nature Tours (%021 126 7525; www.kapitiislandnaturetours.co.nz; departs Kapiti Boating Club, Marine Pde; transport only $80) S run day tours ($180 including boat and lunch) to look at the island’s birds (incredible in range and number), seal colony, history and Māori traditions. Overnight stays (from $384, including boat, meals and accommodation) include an after-dark walk in the bush to spot the rare little spotted kiwi. Kapiti Explorer (%027 655 4739; www.kapitiexplorer.nz; departs Kapiti Boating Club, Marine Pde; adult/child return from $75/40; hSep-May) runs to and from Kapiti Island. Guided walks are $12 extra; fares include DOC landing permit.
Information
More information about Kapiti Island can be found in DOC’s Kapiti Island Nature Reserve brochure (downloadable from www.doc.govt.nz), or in person at the DOC Wellington Visitor Centre.
2Activities
Stables on the ParkHORSE RIDING
(%06-364 3336; www.stablesonthepark.co.nz; MacKay’s Crossing, SH1; pony/horse rides from $25/60)
Mandy and friends run guided rides on well-mannered horses. The 90-minute trek will have you trotting along the beach with views of Kapiti Island before heading inland on park tracks. Beginners are welcome. Call for bookings.
4Sleeping & Eating
Paekakariki Holiday ParkHOLIDAY PARK$
(%04-292 8292; www.paekakarikiholidaypark.co.nz; 180 Wellington Rd; sites from $18, unit with/without bathroom from $95/70; iW)
You couldn’t say that this large, leafy park is fully engaged with NZ’s contemporary holiday park zeitgeist, but it is well located, 1.5km north of the township at the southern entrance to Queen Elizabeth Park (good for tramping and biking). Tidy hedges demarcate tent and campervan sites, and there’s a range of cabins and tourist flats available.
Finn’sHOTEL$$
(%04-292 8081; www.finnshotel.co.nz; 2 Beach Rd; r $145-165; W)
Finn’s is a flashy beige suit in this low-key railway village, but redeems itself with spacious rooms, big bistro meals, a cafe area, craft beer on tap and an in-house 26-seat cinema. Double glazing keeps the highway at bay.
Beach Road DeliCAFE$
(%04-902 9029; www.beach-road-deli.com; 5 Beach Rd; mains $11-17; h7.30am-4pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun, to 8.30pm Fri; v)
This bijou deli and wood-fired pizzeria, stocked with cheese and home-baked bread and pastries, is heaven-sent for the highway traveller or prospective picnicker. The coffee’s good too.
Paraparaumu
%04 / Pop 25,600
Busy Paraparaumu is the Kapiti Coast’s major commercial and residential hot spot. It’s a tale of two towns: the main town on the highway, with its deeply unappealing shopping-mall sprawl; and Paraparaumu Beach, with its waterside park and walkway, decent swimming and winning view out to Kapiti Island (island boat trips set sail from here). If you’re into craft beer or cars, you’re in the right town!
The correct pronunciation is ‘Pah-ra-pah-ra-oo-moo’, meaning ‘scraps from an oven’, which is said to have originated when a Māori war party attacked the settlement and found only scraps of food remaining. It’s a bit of a mouthful to pronounce; locals usually just corrupt it into ‘Para-pa-ram’.
1Sights
Tuatara BreweryBREWERY
(%04-296 1953; www.tuatarabrewing.co.nz; 7 Sheffield St; h3-7pm Wed & Thu, 11am-7pm Fri-Sun)
Visit the oldest and most famous of Wellington’s craft breweries at its industrial-estate premises where you can slurp a pint or two and chew some bar snacks (biersticks, nachos, pizza). Book in advance for an enlightening Saturday afternoon tasting experience, matching four beers with canapes ($35).
Our Lady of Lourdes statueSTATUE
(access from 16 Taranaki St)
Paraparaumu’s oddest claim to fame is surely this 14m-high statue of the Madonna, looming over the town from a 75m-high hill. It was commissioned by the local Catholic priest in 1958 for the 100th anniversary of the Lourdes apparitions. While the statue itself is in good nick, it’s reached by a scrappy path through a dishevelled part of town and the 14 Stations of the Cross that line the route are in a sorry state of repair.
Southward Car MuseumMUSEUM
(%04-297 1221; www.southwardcarmuseum.co.nz; Otaihanga Rd; adult/child $18/5; h9am-4.30pm)
This huge hangar-like museum has one of Australasia’s largest collections of antique and unusual cars. Check out the DeLorean, the German-built 1897 Lux and the 1950 gangster Cadillac complete with bullet holes. The museum is signposted from the expressway.
5Eating
Marine Parade EateryCAFE$$
(%04-892 0098; www.marineparadeeatery.com; 50 Marine Pde; mains breakfast $15-20, lunch $23-25, dinner $27-32; h7.30am-4pm Sat-Thu, to 9pm Fri; W)
Affecting something of a Robinson Crusoe look, this fresh-as-a-daisy cafe offers a sophisticated international menu and terrific views of Kapiti Island out the front window. The seafood laksa (coconut noodle soup) is delicious and they also serve chia-seed porridge, bagels, pulled-lamb burgers, coconut-poached chicken and meze platters.
The SocialPUB FOOD$$
(%04-298 3955; www.mysocial.co.nz; 8 Kapiti Lights; mains $17-30; h11am-late)
Despite its insalubrious location in a car park near the mall, this breezy modern pub is a good place to drink, watch the rugby or catch a band. The food’s surprisingly ambitious too, featuring the likes of jerk chicken burgers, chickpea-battered fish and chips, and harissa, pea and squid pasta.
8Information
Paraparaumu i-SITE (%04-298 8195; www.kapiticoast.govt.nz; Coastlands Mall, Main Rd; h9am-5pm) Kapiti Coast information, maps and brochures, including the Kāpiti Walking & Cycling pamphlet with the low-down on coastal trails and tracks.
Waikanae
%04 / Pop 10,600
Beachy Waikanae has long been a retiree stamping ground but in recent times it has transformed into a growing, go-ahead town, bolstered by first-home-buyer flight from unaffordable Wellington. It’s a cheery seaside enclave, good for some salt-tinged R&R and natural-realm experiences.
1Sights
Ngā ManuNATURE RESERVE
(%04-293 4131; www.ngamanu.co.nz; 74 Ngā Manu Reserve Rd; adult/child/family $18/8/38; h10am-5pm; c) S
Waikanae’s main visitor lure, Ngā Manu Nature Reserve is a 15-hectare bird sanctuary dotted with picnic areas, bushwalks, aviaries and a nocturnal house with kiwi, owls and tuatara. The reserve’s endangered long-fin eels are fed at 2pm daily; guided bird-feeding tours run at 11am daily (adult/child $25/10 including admission).
Hemi Matenga Memorial Park Scenic ReserveFOREST
(www.doc.govt.nz; off Tui Cres) F
This 330-hectare reserve overlooking Waikanae contains a large remnant of native kohekohe forest. The reserve rises steeply from 150m to its highest point, Te Au (514m), a hike of three to four hours. The Kohekohe Walk is also here, an easy 30-minute amble on a well-formed path.
TTours
Waikanae Estuary Bird ToursBIRDWATCHING
(%04-905 1001; www.kapitibirdtours.co.nz; 2hr tours $25)
S The Waikanae Estuary is a hot spot for birds, with around 66 species visiting during the year. You can expect to see around 20 of them on these personalised outings with a passionate guide.
4Sleeping & Eating
Kapiti Gateway MotelMOTEL$$
(%04-902 5876; www.kapitigateway.co.nz; 114 Main Rd; unit from $125; Wsc)
This tidy and welcoming motel may look old-fashioned from the outside but the rooms have been updated and there’s a solar-heated pool, free wi-fi and Sky TV. All rooms have at least a microwave and a kettle, and some have full kitchens.
Long BeachCAFE$$
(%04-293 6760; www.longbeach.net.nz; 40 Tutere St; mains breakfast $13-24, lunch $17-25, dinner $16-33; h9am-11pm; Wvc)
Grab a seat in the large conservatory or the herb garden attached to this attractive, family-friendly cafe-bar. It’s a sunny spot for an afternoon wine or craft beer, accompanied by live music on Sundays. The extensive menu includes cooked breakfasts, pizza, pub grub and bistro-style dishes.