KEY INFO
LOCATION Mexico–United States Border to Parker Canyon Lake Trailhead
DISTANCE 21.7 miles one-way (22.7 miles if you summit Miller Peak)
DAY-TRIP OPTION See turnaround note in the trail description.
SHUTTLE RECOMMENDATION Sunnyside Canyon Trailhead (Passage 1, mile 16.6)
DIFFICULTY Strenuous
LAND MANAGERS Coronado National Forest, Sierra Vista Ranger District, www.fs.usda.gov/coronado, 520-378-0311; Coronado National Memorial, nps.gov/coro, 520-366-5515
RECOMMENDED MONTHS March–November
GATEWAY COMMUNITY See Sierra Vista.
GEOLOGY HIGHLIGHTS Not applicable
A historic obelisk and simple barbed-wire fence at the Mexico–U.S. border mark the official start of the Arizona National Scenic Trail (AZT) from its southernmost point. Here, before your eyes unfolds the expansive San Rafael Valley—a unique Sonoran grassland environment that is beautiful during all seasons. Passage 1 is unique, however, because you must already be on it in order to access this true beginning! But that’s easier than it sounds, as described later (see Southern Access).
The Huachuca Mountains are rich with cultural history, biodiversity, and expansive views into Mexico’s northern state of Sonora.
After touching the monument and traveling north for almost 2 miles, you arrive at a trailhead at Montezuma Pass. Getting there is worth the effort, as you will no doubt agree when the passage climbs onto the first of several landforms called sky islands, which are unique to Arizona. These isolated mountain ranges rise several thousand feet above the surrounding desert, resulting in dramatically different life zones from those found at lower elevations only a few miles away. These elevated biotic communities are evidence of what the Sonoran Desert climate was like 10,000-plus years ago, and as the climate has warmed, the plants and animals have retreated higher into the hills. Thus, these sky islands are surrounded by a sea—of desert.
On the Passage 1 map (see previous page), you will see the Huachuca Mountains represented at the top. As the AZT follows the spine of the Huachucas, flat ground becomes a precious commodity, and campsites are rare. Level places occur along the trail at mile 3.9 (not recommended for camping), mile 5.8 (no water), mile 8.5 (water usually found at mile 8.3), mile 9.7 (no water), miles 10.4 to 11.1 (no water), and from mile 13.8 to the end of the passage.
For thru-hikers, Passage 1 may present other difficulties. Because of its high elevation, it holds snow later than nearby sections of the AZT. If you plan to hike here in late winter or spring, call the Sierra Vista Ranger District or check local hiking blogs for reports on current conditions.
The Monument Fire of 2011 affected the southern portion of the AZT in the Huachuca Mountains. Trail crews addressed major trail issues during the autumn of 2011; you may, however, encounter some tread erosion, missing or downed signs, blowdowns, and other adverse conditions.
Extensive immigration traffic flows through the Huachuca Mountains, and as on any wilderness route, you must always be alert to your surroundings. At press time for this book, however, AZT users have reported no negative encounters with immigrants illegally entering the country via this passage. For current information—and before setting out on Passage 1—contact the Coronado National Forest’s Sierra Vista Ranger District and also Appendix 2. District agents can provide updates about immigration use, level of risk along this passage, and what to do if you encounter suspicious individuals or groups. Note that such trail users sometimes create what are called wildcat trails that can be confused easily with the AZT route. And while it’s always wise to hike with companions, this is especially true when traveling through remote wilderness areas in the international borderlands.
At the Passage 1 starting point, the corner of two fences near the obelisk indicates the beginning of the AZT at the Mexico border. After pausing for a moment to take in the view, turn back, north-northeast, to essentially retrace your steps and follow the winding trail as it climbs to a saddle and returns to the intersection with Joe’s Canyon Trail at mile 1.1.
Turn left (west) and climb a short distance, and then drop through several switch-backs to meet the Coronado Peak Trail at mile 1.8. Turn right and descend 0.1 mile to the parking lot at 6,570-foot Montezuma Pass. If you were to make a left turn at mile 1.8, it would lead a short distance off the AZT to the top of Coronado Peak, where Flagstaff schoolteacher Dale Shewalter sat with friends on a clear, cool evening and presented the question of whether it would be possible to link a series of trails across the entire state.
Walk to the road (FR 61) at the north end of the parking lot, turn right (northeast), and continue 25 yards to the Crest Trail, a clear singletrack that takes off on the left (north). The trail climbs through many switchbacks along the east side of the ridge. You reach the ridgecrest at mile 2.5. This portion of the AZT is within the Coronado National Memorial, a historically significant region of Arizona that commemorates the first organized expedition into the Southwest by conquistador Francisco Vásquez de Coronado.
At mile 3.9 the trail crests the main ridge, with great views to the east. In another 50 yards, the trail enters the Miller Peak Wilderness. Avoid side trails to Lutz Canyon and Bond Spring as you continue straight ahead to mile 6.5, where the trail crests the ridge at an intersection with the trail to the top of Miller Peak (9,050 feet). To climb Miller Peak, turn right and continue 0.5 mile to the 9,466-foot summit. The views from the summit of this sky island make the side trip worth every step.
TURNAROUND NOTE: If you’re day-hiking and you haven’t arranged for a car shuttle at Sunnyside Canyon or Parker Canyon Lake Trailheads, this is a great spot to reverse and retrace your steps back toward Montezuma Pass. The views to the south are incredible, and if your timing is right, you’ll enjoy the sunset across the seemingly endless grasslands of the San Rafael Valley.
To continue on the trail, the AZT follows the ridge to the northwest for about a mile before dropping off to the east side and passing Tub Spring at mile 8.3 (8,550 feet). This water source, which flows into an old bathtub, is reliable in springtime and year-round if conditions are favorable. Camping is prohibited within 200 feet of the spring—and there are better sites at mile 8.5 anyway. Thirty yards past the spring, reach an intersection with the Miller Canyon Trail (Trail 106), which descends to the right. Turn sharply left (due north) and follow a sign for the Crest Trail.
For its first mile, the AZT follows the Yaqui Ridge Trail from the international boundary to Montezuma Pass.
Climb briefly to mile 8.5 where you should avoid the Carr Peak Trail by staying on the Crest Trail to the left (west). There are a few flat spots here for camping.
Negotiate the steep descent to an intersection with the Oversite Canyon Trail at mile 9.8. Stay on the Crest Trail, and walk due north, crossing a streambed in 0.1 mile. Cross through Bear Saddle, where there is one flat spot to pitch a tent about 2 feet off the trail. Be aware that this area, especially Bear Spring, is heavily used by immigrants crossing into the United States illegally.
If you turn left (south) at Bear Saddle onto the Bear Canyon Trail, you can descend 0.5 mile (with an elevation loss of 500 feet) to reliable Bear Spring and some nice campsites. Note that this detour takes you off the AZT.
If you have not made that detour—or once you’ve returned to the AZT if you did take the detour—climb steeply west through pines until the trail crosses the ridge.
At mile 11.6, the AZT reaches the crest again and then becomes fainter as it descends to an intersection at mile 11.8. Leave the Crest Trail here by turning left (west-northwest) onto the signed Sunnyside Canyon Trail (Trail 117, at 8,500 feet). Stay on the Sunnyside Canyon Trail as it intersects the Eureka Canyon Trail at mile 12.8 and the Copper Glance Trail at mile 13.5.
The bottom of Sunnyside Canyon often contains flowing water during snowmelt. Continue to the wilderness boundary at mile 16.6. There is a small parking area here (see Alternate Access), and a good camping area is less than 0.1 mile down the road.
To continue on the AZT, follow the rough road through a turn to the left in 0.1 mile. Look for a somewhat obscure AZT sign on the right (north) side of the road. Turn onto the singletrack, cross a drainage, turn left to follow this drainage, and then veer right (west) in 0.1 mile.
At mile 17.2, cross a dirt road at a right angle and enter a confusing series of dirt roads. From the sign on the far side of the road, walk due west about 50 yards, and look for more signs indicating the singletrack to the northwest. Cross a wash for the first of several times at mile 17.3.
At mile 18.9, join an old road and turn right to descend along a wash to the south-southwest. At mile 19.5, go straight through a gate and continue to follow the road down lower Scotia Canyon. As you approach FR 48, leave the drainage, and follow cairns and signs as you hike through a flat parking area on the east side of FR 48. Cross the road where the AZT sign directs you to a trail on the west side of FR 48 at about mile 20.4.
To continue on the AZT, follow the singletrack through a pleasant, forested bench going south-southwest. Descend to and cross a major wash following cairns and signs. Continue through a vehicle-accessible camping area, and then pick up a clear single-track that climbs a short but steep hill.
Cross an old jeep road (at about mile 21.2), a wash, a corral and gate, and another road. On the other side of this road is a parking area and a kiosk identifying the AZT. It marks the end of Passage 1.
Bikes are not permitted on trails in Coronado National Memorial or Miller Peak Wilderness. Cyclists wishing to start at the international border will have to improvise by using roads outside the memorial boundary. An easier alternative is to start at Montezuma Pass and ride west on FR 61 to FR 48 and the beginning of Passage 2, near Parker Canyon Lake. Mountain bikers also can ride the AZT in Passage 1 outside of the Miller Peak Wilderness, from Parker Canyon Lake Trailhead to the wilderness boundary in Sunnyside Canyon. Starting and finishing at Parker Canyon Lake and connecting Scotia and Sunnyside Canyons makes for an excellent loop. For detailed information about scenic mountain biking routes around wilderness areas, visit aztrail.org. Note: Passage 2 provides good mountain biking for advanced riders.
As referenced in the overview, above, to access the true beginning of Passage 1, at the international border, you must walk southbound on the trail itself, starting at mile 1.9 atop Montezuma Pass.
To reach Montezuma Pass from the town of Sonoita, follow AZ 83 south 30 miles to its intersection with FR 48. Turn left (south) onto FR 48 and continue 5.4 miles to FR 61. Continue east 8.8 miles on a rough dirt road to a large parking area at the summit of the pass.
To reach Montezuma Pass from Sierra Vista, travel 14 miles south on AZ 92 and turn right (south) on South Coronado Memorial Road. Continue 8.3 miles, generally south and west, to the large parking area at the summit of the pass. Shortly after you pass the Coronado Memorial Visitor Center, the road turns to dirt and climbs to the pass via switchbacks. This road is unsafe for vehicles hauling horse trailers (use the approach from FR 61 instead).
From your car, at Montezuma Pass, hike toward the Passage 1 start at the Mexico border by heading to the kiosk in the southeast end of the Coronado National Memorial Visitor Center parking lot. Climb a short distance on a clear tread, and follow a sign for the Coronado Peak Trail. After 0.1 mile, turn left onto Joe’s Canyon Trail, which follows the ridgeline to the southeast. Descend to a saddle and an intersection at mile 0.8, turn right (south) on the combined AZT and Yaqui Ridge Trail, and follow switchbacks down Yaqui Ridge. At 1.9 miles from the parking lot, reach the fence that separates Mexico from the United States and another fence that runs up the ridge to the north. An obelisk here notes that the Treaty of 1853 established the international boundary and marks the true beginning of the AZT.
You could also access the combined AZT and Yaqui Ridge Trail to the border by hiking Joe’s Canyon Trail from where it starts near the Coronado National Memorial Visitor Center, but that option is longer and more strenuous.
Note: It is illegal to cross the fence line into the Mexican state of Sonora.
As noted in the Key Info, this trailhead, at AZT mile 16.6, is a good place to leave a vehicle for a shuttle hike in order to shorten the distance you must cover in a single push. From the town of Sonoita, drive AZ 83 south 30 miles to its intersection with FR 48. Turn left (south) onto FR 48, continue 2.2 miles, and turn left (east) onto FR 228. Drive 0.9 mile to a fork and stay left. Continue 1.6 miles to a T-intersection and turn right on FR 204. Drive 0.3 mile to a Y-intersection and bear left on FR 204. Over the next 0.2 mile, ignore three left turns, following the road as it winds back to the right to intersect another road at a sharp angle. Turn left here and drive 0.5 mile to meet the AZT, which leaves the road on the left. Continue 0.1 mile to a small parking area at the wilderness boundary.
If you want to hit the trail from here, please follow the trail description in reverse order. From the town of Sonoita, follow AZ 83 south 30 miles to its intersection with FR 48. Turn left (south) onto FR 48, continue 0.5 mile, and turn right onto South Lake Drive. Proceed 0.5 mile to a parking area near an AZT kiosk.