KEY INFO
LOCATION Theodore Roosevelt Lake to Lone Pine Saddle
DISTANCE 19.5 miles one-way
DAY-TRIP OPTION For the highest quality trail miles, drive to Mills Ridge Trailhead, hike northwest along the AZT to Granite Spring, and then return.
SHUTTLE RECOMMENDATION Mills Ridge Trailhead
DIFFICULTY Strenuous
LAND MANAGER Tonto National Forest, Tonto Basin Ranger District, www.fs.usda.gov/tonto, 928-467-3200
RECOMMENDED MONTHS March–May; September–November
GATEWAY COMMUNITIES See Roosevelt and Tonto Basin.
GEOLOGY HIGHLIGHTS See “Amazing Mazatzals”.
This passage has several striking aspects, including great views of Roosevelt Lake and the dam that created it, close-up views of the magnificent Four Peaks, and the startling effects of an intense forest fire.
Roosevelt Dam was completed in 1911, following President Theodore Roosevelt’s 1902 edict to divert and store water to spur development of the West. In 1984, engineers determined that the dam might be inadequate to withstand the greatest possible earthquake that could occur in the area, and also that a large flood could overwhelm the dam. A $410 million project to reconfigure the dam began in 1989 and was completed in 1996. The dam’s height increased from 280 to 357 feet, the length of the crest grew from 723 to 1,210 feet, and the lake’s surface gained 1,862 acres, an increase of almost 10 percent.
Another human-made feature that defines this passage was less carefully planned and executed. Careless campers started a wild conflagration called the Lone Fire near Pigeon Spring on April 28, 1996. In a week, it consumed 60,000 acres, making it the largest fire in Arizona history at that time. The Arizona National Scenic Trail (AZT) goes through the heart of this burn area, presenting some unique challenges to the hiker. Cairns mark the trail in these areas, but they are frequently inadequate. Adding to the peril are burned-out snags that can topple at any time.
As of March 2013, the passage corridor has been completely cleared and is passable along the entire length of the trail, but there are a few sections that have annual brush encroachment. Water conditions vary throughout the year. The trail traverses some high ridges with significant elevation gains, and the loss of benching tends to make the cross slopes slippery. It is recommended only for equestrians with extensive trail riding experience.
From the parking area on the east side of AZ 188, walk southwest across the highway near the suspension bridge, and look for a trail that climbs to the southwest: the Vineyard Trail (Trail 131), marked with an AZT carsonite sign. Wind up the ridge, and after 0.5 mile make a sharp turn to the right as another spur continues straight to the south (this spur leads a short distance to a bird’s-eye view of Roosevelt Dam).
The trail’s initial climb soon gives way to rolling ups and downs along a prominent ridge, with stunning views of Apache Lake to the south. Soon you reach an old double-track that is marked by AZT stickers on carsonite posts. Turn right (west) and follow a slight descent.
The ridge dwindles away and the trail fades somewhat as it bends right (northwest) to climb pretty steeply onto another ridge. As you walk due west along this ridge, you feel like you’re near the top of the world, with astounding views in all directions, even though you’re only about 3,400 feet above sea level. Upon reaching a parking area at Mills Ridge Trailhead, walk west across the parking area to pick up the AZT at a sign for Trail 130. A relatively steep climb leads to a ridge crest in 0.5 mile, followed by a knob. The trail drops into Buckhorn Creek and then goes up again, passing Hackberry Creek and finally reaching unreliable Granite Spring. From here, Four Peaks Trail (Trail 130) heads north and then west, skirting Buckhorn Peak.
Autumn brings gorgeous colors to Passage 20, including the Halloween hues of bigtooth maple (Acer grandidentatum) leaves.
Continuing north, you reach an intersection with the Alder Creek Trail (Trail 82). Stay on Trail 130 to the right (west) for about 10 yards, and then follow it as it makes a right (north) turn to continue contouring along this steep hillside. The trail becomes very clear. At the intersection with Oak Flat Trail (Trail 123), turn left (northwest). You soon reach unreliable Shake Spring. Continue on past Bear Spring on Pigeon Trail (Trail 134) until you arrive at Pigeon Spring.
To go to the popular trailhead at Lone Pine Saddle, continue up the trail to the south, and later west-northwest, about 2 miles. After crossing a streambed, the trail fades near some unusually flat terrain. Bear right (east) of the flat point, and the trail is soon apparent.
In less than a mile, crest a small ridge and exit the Four Peaks Wilderness at a marker. Next you reach Pigeon Spring. From the sign for Pigeon Spring, the trail climbs southwest on an old roadbed. The trail reaches Pigeon Trailhead on FR 648, and the end of Passage 20.
Most of this passage is inside the Four Peaks Wilderness, where bikes are prohibited. For detailed information about scenic mountain biking routes around wilderness areas, visit aztrail.org.
The southern access area for this passage is near Theodore Roosevelt Dam, where AZ 88 and AZ 188 meet. The parking area is at the north end of the suspension bridge, on the east side of the highway.
From the Roosevelt suspension bridge, drive 2.5 miles northwest on AZ 188 and cross a bridge. Turn left (west) onto the dirt road (which connects to FR 429). The following mileages are from AZ 188: Follow the road’s curve to the right, then turn left (west) onto FR 429 at mile 0.4. Stay on FR 429 until you reach a parking area and trailhead at mile 4.9. The AZT arrives from the east (downhill side) on the Vineyard Trail and departs to the west (uphill) on Trail 130.
If you want to hit the trail from here, please follow the trail description in reverse order. From the suspension bridge near Roosevelt Dam, drive north on AZ 188 for 11 miles and turn left (west) at mile marker 255 onto El Oso Road. At 4.4 miles from the highway, the road appears to fork. Take the sharp right turn and follow the road as it climbs. Continue another 4.2 miles to an intersection with FR 422, which is the path of the AZT to the north. The AZT arrives from the southeast (left) on FR 143. Drive 1 mile on FR 143 to an intersection, bear left onto FR 648, and continue almost another mile to Pigeon Spring Trailhead on the left.
Alternatively, to reach a larger, more developed parking area and trailhead at Lone Pine Saddle, continue 0.5 mile ahead. Parking here allows you to hike on singletrack into the Four Peaks Wilderness and meet the AZT in about 2 miles.
Passage 20 features a diverse mix of desert and forest environments.