KEY INFO
LOCATION Mount Peeley to The Park
DISTANCE 22.3 miles one-way
DAY-TRIP OPTION See turnaround note in the trail description.
SHUTTLE RECOMMENDATION Not applicable
DIFFICULTY Strenuous
LAND MANAGER Tonto National Forest, Payson Ranger District, www.fs.usda.gov/tonto, 928-474-7936
RECOMMENDED MONTHS March–November
GATEWAY COMMUNITY See Payson.
GEOLOGY HIGHLIGHTS See “Amazing Mazatzals”.
Before the Willow and Sunflower Fires severely ravaged this passage in 2004 and 2012, respectively, this route was considered one of the most beautiful segments of the Arizona National Scenic Trail (AZT). It traverses to near the top of the Mazatzal Mountains, including Mazatzal Peak, whose impressive west face towers 1,700 feet above the trail. The cool, thin air encourages the growth of beautiful trees, especially stands of ponderosa pines that are hundreds of years old. The fire was brutal, but some of these ancient treasures remain. Farther north on the passage, red-rock canyons reflect sunset colors that would be difficult for any artist to recreate. This is the middle of the AZT’s longest sojourn in a designated wilderness area, and you can feel it! Humans are infrequent visitors to these lonely ridges, and the land is much the same as it was hundreds of years ago when it was the domain of the Yavapai and Apache peoples.
Late spring is an ideal time to hike here, although summer temperatures are generally not unbearable. Snow is very likely in the winter months, making most of the Mazatzal Mountains impassable. Campsites are rare because of the precipitous terrain, but there are some nice spots at the following locations: mile 6.7, mile 9.4, mile 19.4, and mile 22.
From the parking area, hike 0.5 mile up the Cornucopia Trail (Trail 86) to reach the AZT. The Mazatzal Divide Trail (Trail 23) begins here with a steep climb up a number of switchbacks that may seem endless as the trail climbs the east side of Mount Peeley. The trail then levels off after 1.5 miles as it bends west to pass under the north slopes of the mountain as you enter the Mazatzal Wilderness. The views from here are incredible.
After 4.2 miles, the trail skirts very deep canyons across steep slopes. A saddle offers a rare place to camp, near the higher reaches of this long ridge, but no water. This elevated perch provides some awesome views to the west.
TURNAROUND NOTE: Day-hikers would be wise to turn around here—the next descent isn’t something you’d want to hike back up.
The trail now descends sharp switchbacks, and Mazatzal Peak’s intimidating west face dominates the immediate horizon. A second broad saddle, adorned with peaceful stands of ponderosa pines, provides another nice place to camp. In the next 0.1 mile, signs indicate two springs a short distance off the trail. Bear Spring is fairly reliable.
After 10.5 miles from the Mount Peeley Trailhead, the trail begins to switchback through the remains of old-growth ponderosa pine, alligator juniper, and scrub oak as it reaches a saddle, 0.5 mile farther, and crosses to the east side of the divide as it continues on singletrack trending north-northeast over gentle terrain. At the intersection with the Y Bar Trail (Trail 44), turn left (north) to stay on the Mazatzal Divide Trail (Trail 23). After passing under the steep cliffs of Mazatzal Peak, the trail climbs through some thick manzanita, making protective clothing helpful. Signs along the next 8 miles may indicate turnoffs to several springs and seeps, such as Brody Seep, Chilson Spring, and Horse Camp Seep (a popular campsite); however, they may or may not have water. Conditions change rapidly, so always check with the ATA water-resource guide (aztrail.org/watersources.html). Usually the last person hiking through the area can provide the most accurate information, which makes hiking blogs very helpful.
Bagworms spin their silk around trees and shrubs in the Mazatzal Mountains in preparation for their metamorphosis into moths.
Continuing on this stretch, you will notice numerous places with spectacular views as well as a couple of turnoffs, including Barnhardt Trail (Trail 43), Sandy Saddle Trail (Trail 231), and Rock Creek Trail (Trail 42). Hopi Spring is the turnoff for the Rock Creek Trailhead, but the Willow Fire mostly destroyed the spring—it even burned the spring box and piping. Approximately 1 mile past Hopi Spring, cairns guide you through a rocky section, with a high, rocky point offering expansive views of the valleys to the west and the low country along the East Verde River to the north-northwest. On a clear day, you can see the snowcapped San Francisco Peaks about 75 miles to the north.
A mule finds an inconspicuous wooden AZT marker along Passage 23.
From this point, turn right (northeast), walk about 50 yards, and follow a switch-back that descends to the left (south) underneath the rocky escarpment. Another switchback soon heads back to the north with a long, gradual descent leading to a T-intersection with the Willow Spring Trail (Trail 223). Turn right (north-northeast), as the signs indicate, and in 0.1 mile, watch for cairns marking the trail’s crossing of a rocky streambed. Soon you’ll arrive at a natural open area called The Park, marking the end of Passage 23. At this location, the North Peak Trail (Trail 24) breaks off to the northeast (right) and proceeds down to the Mineral Creek Trailhead. The AZT continues straight ahead (north) on the Red Rock Passage down to the East Verde River.
Bikes are prohibited on this passage, which lies entirely within the Mazatzal Wilderness. For detailed information about scenic mountain biking routes around wilderness areas, visit aztrail.org.
Drive 4.8 miles north of Sunflower on AZ 87 to mile marker 222.8. Turn left (west) onto paved FR 627, opposite the Mount Ord turnoff. Follow FR 627 downhill 1.2 miles and then turn right, over a cattle guard, onto FR 201. Drive 9.3 miles on FR 201 to the Mount Peeley Trailhead, where you’ll find a small parking area. The sign here says CORNUCOPIA TRAIL (TRAIL 86) and indicates a 0.5-mile hike to the Mazatzal Divide Trail (Trail 23) and AZT.
Take AZ 87 to mile marker 238.4 (about 11 miles south of Payson). Turn west onto FR 419 and drive almost 6 miles to the Barnhardt Trailhead. Then hike up the Barnhardt Trail (Trail 43) for 5.9 miles to the junction with the AZT and Mazatzal Divide Trail (Trail 23).
If you want to hit the trail from here, please follow the trail description in reverse order. From Payson on AZ 87 drive west on Main Street. Stay on the main road past a golf course, where the pavement ends and the road becomes FR 406. About 5.2 miles from AZ 87, turn left on FR 414 and continue another 5.2 miles. Turn right and continue 0.2 mile to a three-way fork in the road. Turn left and go about 100 feet to Mineral Creek Trailhead. Hike along the North Peak Trail for 4 miles to reach the AZT.
Sunset over Horseshoe Reservoir from deep within the Mazatzal Wilderness