KEY INFO
LOCATION Kaibab National Forest boundary to Telephone Hill
DISTANCE 21.4 miles one-way
DAY-TRIP OPTION See turnaround note in the trail description.
SHUTTLE RECOMMENDATIONS East Rim View Trailhead (passage mile 7.8), FR 213 (passage mile 13.1)
DIFFICULTY Easy
LAND MANAGER Kaibab National Forest, North Kaibab Ranger District, www.fs.usda.gov/kaibab, 928-643-7395
RECOMMENDED MONTHS May–October
GATEWAY COMMUNITY See North Rim to Jacob Lake.
GEOLOGY HIGHLIGHTS Not applicable
As it follows the Kaibab Plateau Trail (Trail 101), this section of the Arizona National Scenic Trail (AZT) might just offer the easiest and most pleasant traveling along the entire 800-plus miles. It crosses a much overlooked and delightful area of northern Arizona, passing through an idyllic forest of spruce, pine, and aspen. For about a mile, the trail dodges in and out of stately trees along the East Rim of the Grand Canyon, offering breathtaking views of Marble Canyon to the east and the Vermilion Cliffs to the north, the final Arizona landmark before the canyon country of Utah. Another attraction: water is plentiful except in drought conditions. You can camp almost anywhere, as long as you’re out of sight of the trail and roads.
Follow a singletrack northeast from the north boundary of Grand Canyon National Park across FR 610 and into Upper North Canyon Valley. The singletrack is marked by carsonite posts bearing the AZT symbol. After 1 mile, the trail follows an old road left (west-northwest) into an adjacent valley. In 0.1 mile, it joins another valley and turns back to the right (north) to meander through beautiful forests and sublime meadows. The AZT crosses FR 612 at mile 3.7.
At a sign indicating the Kaibab Plateau Trail (Trail 101), leave the road and turn right (north) onto a faint singletrack. In 200 feet, you pass a pond. After 2.3 miles, the trail leaves the valley by climbing a side drainage to the left (southwest). In 0.1 mile, the trail curves back to the right (north) to climb more steeply into a thick spruce–fir forest. Within the next mile, cross diagonally over two old roads and stay on the singletrack.
When you reach a jeep road, as indicated by carsonite posts, turn right (north). When the road forks in 0.7 mile, take the right fork, and continue on the double-track to a pond at Crystal Spring. From here follow the singletrack to the northeast as the trail approaches the North Canyon Rim. A gradual descent ends, Trail 4 proceeds straight ahead about 0.6 mile over the edge of the rim and drops about 450 feet in elevation to North Canyon Spring, the most reliable water source on or near this passage.
The AZT turns to the north at the junction with Trail 4 and climbs through giant, old-growth ponderosa pines. The trail levels along the East Rim, with awesome views east into the Saddle Mountain Wilderness. Soon you can see Marble Canyon, upstream from the Grand Canyon. Far to the north lie the majestic Vermilion Cliffs.
The trail winds along the rim and reaches the vehicle-accessible East Rim Viewpoint Trailhead at 8,822 feet. With restroom facilities and good photography and napping possibilities, East Rim Viewpoint makes for a fine rest stop; however, camping is prohibited within 0.25 mile.
TURNAROUND NOTE: For day-hikers without a car shuttle, the East Rim View Trailhead is a prime destination; you can easily spend a few hours here before reversing your route. By the time you return to the beginning of the passage, you’ll have traveled nearly 15 unforgettable miles.
Back on the AZT, join a dirt road for a brief distance, staying near the rim, and then follow a singletrack that goes around the right (east) side of a camping area. Avoid Trail #7, which descends off the rim, and stay on the very clear singletrack as it ambles along the rim to the north.
As you leave the East Rim Viewpoint, the trail widens into a road and passes a campsite on the left. Pick up a singletrack that takes off to the left by a carsonite post. Go about 40 yards, cross FR 611 at a right angle, and continue on a doubletrack to the west-northwest. Soon you pass a scenic pond called Dog Lake. About 0.5 mile past Dog Lake, follow a doubletrack northwest through a long meadow for 0.6 mile. When you reenter the trees, the AZT leaves the road to the left on a singletrack. The trail crosses two old roads and then begins a major descent through a series of switchbacks to reach the peaceful valley called Upper Tater Canyon.
Turn right (north) onto an old doubletrack and walk along the narrow, flat meadow. Watch for a carsonite AZT sign, and be careful to avoid a faint doubletrack that climbs out of the valley to the left. Near the north end of the valley, the road you’re following curves to the left. Look for carsonite posts marking a singletrack that branches off to the right. Follow it for 0.1 mile, and then turn right onto a doubletrack that climbs northwest away from the meadow. Cross a fence and an adjacent road at a right angle, and then follow a singletrack on the other side.
During summer and autumn, the AZT along Passage 40 is simply divine.
The trail winds through the forest, passing a murky pond. Cross a well-graded dirt road (FR 221). Continue on a singletrack, cross another road in 0.2 mile, and pick up a doubletrack trending just east of north, which quickly bends west before returning to a north-northwest direction. In 0.5 mile, follow a singletrack that leaves the right side of the road and curves northwest through a pleasant grove of aspen trees. Soon you see AZ 67 in sprawling Pleasant Valley to the west.
In less than 1 mile, the doubletrack fades to a singletrack that is occasionally obscure. It descends to a broad, grassy extension of Pleasant Valley and then climbs an old jeep road to the northwest. As the trail regains the trees, follow a left fork less than 100 yards to a singletrack that continues straight ahead to the northwest. Brown carsonite posts clearly mark the route.
Roll through the forest and meadows, entering a very large meadow 15 miles from the start of the passage. As the trail fades, follow a faint doubletrack to the left (west) along the north edge of the meadow, passing Little Pleasant Valley Tank. Descend to another meadow, and follow a singletrack to the right (north) past a large pond. The AZT climbs and then descends to parallel AZ 67, passing through an old corral before reaching Crane Lake in the middle of another large meadow. Crane Lake has seasonal water. Passage 40 ends at mile 21.4 about 2.75 miles beyond Crane Lake after a steep climb to the top of Telephone Hill at FR 241.
With singletrack almost the entire way, this passage offers one of the best moderate rides along the AZT, passing through evergreen forests and peaceful meadows, with far-reaching views from the East Rim. Although it’s a long way from anywhere, this passage should be a destination for mountain bikers everywhere. For more information about mountain biking along the Arizona National Scenic Trail, visit aztrail.org.
From Jacob Lake, drive south on AZ 67 for 26 miles and turn left (east) onto FR 611 (4.5 miles north of the Grand Canyon National Park North Entrance Station and 1 mile south of Kaibab Lodge). Drive 1.1 miles, and turn right (east) onto FR 610. Wind south and then east 5.1 miles to the FR 610 Trailhead on the south side of the road. The trail-head includes a permanent toilet and is located near where the AZT crosses FR 610 and about 0.5 mile north of the boundary of Grand Canyon National Park.
The East Rim Viewpoint along Passage 40 beckons trail travelers to stop and soak up the scenery.
From Jacob Lake, head south on AZ 67 for 26.5 miles (0.7 mile beyond DeMotte Campground) and turn left (east) on FR 611. Follow FR 611 for 4 miles to the East Rim Viewpoint Trailhead.
About 13.5 miles south of Jacob Lake on AZ 67, look for a sign pointing to FR 429 on the west side. Do not turn right onto FR 429, but instead turn left (east) onto FR 241. In 0.1 mile, the AZT crosses the road, but there is no parking here. Continue another 0.1 mile to a little campsite on the left, where you may find a place to park.